Question:

> It’s also a "response" to a post Ruth Mays made on 4/13/2000. > Jerry’s playing his strawman game again because nobody will talk

to him. > Lynn K.

From your koehler book: "While he’s held in close, lay the strap vigorously against his thighs. Keep pouring it on him until he thinks it’s the bitter end. A real whaling now may cut down somewhat on the number of repeat performances that will be necessary. When you’re finished and the dog is convinced that he is…" From Frank to lying "I LOVE KOEHLER" lynn: "How fricken sick do you need to be to say a dog chooses to be shocked or pronged or shot in the ass with a sling shot? Chooses it over what? Are you twisted pieces of human refuse offering a dog a selection of torture devices, and observing them indicating their personal preference of pain infliction? I thought the whole idea behind aversion training was that the subject does not choose it. You Lynn thinking people are a bunch of abusive idiots. *YOU* choose to hurt  dogs. Fine. But the fact that you want to sell the idea that the dogs that god and human society have entrusted, have gifted to you, are actually empowered by your abuse, is an example of sociopathic illogic beyond anything this ng has yet offered. You’re like some fricken wife beater who actually says "Don’t make me hit you, Bitch!" What part of what backwoods portion of which idiot nation do you people reside in? THE DOG CHOOSES? What is next? we have so far 1. I hurt dogs to save their lives. 2. I hurt dogs to save people’s lives. 3. I hurt dogs to accomodate their choice in being hurt. Just hurt the dogs and don’t try to explain it. Please, you’re scaring me with this stuff. No wonder why you guys get so bent out of shape when others speculate as to your motivation behind hurting dogs. Their speculation seems more plausable then what you yourself offer. You’re so sick, so drunk with your "tools" of power, that you don’t even see the abusive egoism in your explanations. You people are way far gone. It will be 20 years before you’ll be embarrassed or ashamed by what you write in here daily." And here’s a little of what Frank was talking about: "Warning: Sometimes The Corrections Will Seem Quite Harsh And Cause You To Cringe. This Is A Normal Reaction The First Few Times It Happens, But You’ll Get Over It." mike duforth, author: "Courteous Canine."  "Nope. That "beating dogs with sticks" things is  something you twisted out of context, because you  are full of bizarro manure." "The Koehler Method of Dog Training" Howell Book House," 1996 William Koehler "Housebreaking problems": Occasionally, there is a pup who seems determined to relieve himself inside the house, regardless of how often he has the opportunity to go outside. This dog may require punishment. Make certain he is equipped with a collar and piece of line so he can’t avoid correction. When you discover a mess, move in fast, take him to the place of his error, and hold his head close enough so that he associates his error with the punishment. Punish him by spanking him with a light strap or switch. Either one is better than a folded newspaper. It is important to your future relationship that you do not rush at him and start swinging before you get hold of him. When he’s been spanked, take him outside. Chances are, if you are careful in your feeding and close observation, you will not have to do much punishing. Be consistent in your handling. To have a pup almost house-broken and then force him to commit an error by not providing an opportunity to go outside is very unfair. Careful planning will make your job easier. The same general techniques of housebreaking apply to grown dogs that are inexperienced in the house. For the grown dog who was reliable in the house and then backslides, the method of correction differs somewhat. In this group of "backsliders" we have the "revenge piddler." This dog protests being alone by messing on the floor and often in the middle of a bed. The first step of correction is to confine the dog closely in a part of the house when you go away, so that he is constantly reminded of his obligation. The fact that he once was reliable in the house is proof that the dog knows right from wrong, and it leaves you no other course than to punish him sufficiently to convince him that the satisfaction of his wrongdoing is not worth the consequences. If the punishment is not severe enough, some of these "backsliders" will think they’re winning and will continue to mess in the house. An indelible impression can sometimes be made by giving the dog a hard spanking of long duration, then leaving him tied by the mess he’s made so you can come back at twenty minute intervals and punish him again for the same thing. In most cases, the dog that deliberately does this disagreeable thing cannot be made reliable by the light spanking that some owners seem to think is adequate punishment. It will be better for your dog, as well as the house, if you really pour it on him. Some of the new "breaking scents" on the market can aid in your house-breaking program. One type discourages the dog from even visiting an area. Another encourages him to relieve himself in the area where it is sprinkled. Your pet shop should be able to supply further information on the brands available in your district. Be fair to your dog in what and when you feed him and be consistent in your efforts to housebreak him, and you’ll soon accomplish the job. BARKING, WHINING, HOWLING, YODELING, SCREAMING, AND WAILING The fact that you realize you have such a problem makes it certain you have "reproved" the dog often enough to let him know you were against his sound effects, even though your reproving didn’t quiet them, so we’ll bypass the loudly clapped hands, the cup of water in his face, and the "shame-shames" and start with something more emphatic. We’ll begin with the easiest kind of vocalist to correct: the one that charges gates, fences, doors, and windows, barking furiously at familiar or imaginary people and objects. A few clusters of BBs from a good slingshot, in conjunction with the light line and plenty of temptations, will cause such a dog to use his mind rather than his mouth. But you won’t make the permanent impression unless you supply dozens of opportunities for him to exercise the control he thus acquires. Make sure these opportunities don’t always come at the same time of the day, else he may learn to observe the "quiet hour" and pursue his old routines at other times. With the help of the light line, it will be easy to follow the BBs with a long down to make sure he gets the most from his lesson. As was mentioned before, eliminating the senseless barking will not lessen the dog’s value as a  watchdog but rather, as he grows more discriminating, increase it. The dog who vocalizes in bratty protest or lonesomeness because you’re gone constitutes a different problem. If it is impractical for someone to stay with him constantly (there are owners who cater to neurosis by employing dog sitters), you’ll have to heed the neighbors and the law and quiet the dog. This calls for a little ingenuity as well as a heavy hand. Attach a line to your dog’s collar, so your corrective effort doesn’t turn into a footrace around the house until you reach a stalemate under the bed. This use of the line in the correction will also serve to establish it as a reminder to be quiet as the dog drags it around when you’re not present. Next, equip yourself with a man’s leather belt or a strap heavy enough to give your particular dog a good tanning. Yup-we’re going to strike him. Real hard. Remember, you’re dealing with a dog who knows he should be quiet and neighbors who have legal rights to see that he does. Now leave, and let your fading footsteps tell the dog of your going. When you’ve walked to a point where he’ll think you’re gone but where you could hear any noises he might make, stop and listen. If you find a comfortable waiting place on a nearby porch, be careful not to talk or laugh. Tests show a dog’s hearing to be many times as sharp as yours. When the noise comes, instead of trying to sneak up to the door so you can barge in while he’s still barking, which is generally impossible, respond to his first sound with an emphatic bellow of "out," and keep on bellowing as you charge back to his area. Thunder through the door or gate, snatch up the belt that you’ve conveniently placed, and descend on him. He’ll have no chance to dodge if you grab the line  and reel him in until his front feet are raised off the floor or, if he’s a big dog, until you’ve snubbed him up with a hitch on something. While he’s held in close, lay the strap vigorously against his thighs. Keep pouring it on him until he thinks it’s the bitter end. A real whaling now may cut down somewhat on the number of repeat performances that will be necessary. When you’re finished and the dog is convinced that he is, put him on a long down to think things over  while you catch your breath. After fifteen or twenty minutes, release  him from the stay and leave the area again. So that you won’t feel remorseful, reflect on the truth that a great percentage of the barkers who are given away to "good homes" end up in the kindly black box with the sweet smell. Personally, I’ve always felt that it’s even better to spank children, even if they "cry out," than to "put them to sleep." You might have a long wait on that comfortable porch before your dog starts broadcasting again. When he does, let your long range bellow tie the consequent correction to his first sound and repeat the spanking, if anything emphasizing it a bit more. It might be necessary to spend a Saturday or another day … read more »

Response:

Hello lying "I LOVE KOEHLER" lynn,

> It’s also a "response" to a post Ruth Mays made on 4/13/2000.

Is that so? It’s been in the FREE Wits’ End Dog Training Method manual since long before I ever had the displeasure to run across your dog abusing pal ruthie. > Jerry’s playing his strawman game again because nobody will talk

to him. You got anything to say about my methods? You like to hurt dogs, lying lynn. You told a new foster care giver to leave a long line on their new foster dog in his crate, and to jerk and choke him to keep him quiet. That’s not nice, lying "I LOVE KOEHLER" lynn. Talk dog training. Here’s your koehler method and some abuse your pals lying frosty dahl and cindy mooreon like to call training: "Warning: Sometimes The Corrections Will Seem Quite Harsh And Cause You To Cringe. This Is A Normal Reaction The First Few Times It Happens, But You’ll Get Over It." mike duforth, author: "Courteous Canine."

 "Nope. That "beating dogs with sticks" things is  something you twisted out of context, because you  are full of bizarro manure." "The Koehler Method of Dog Training" Howell Book House," 1996 William Koehler "Housebreaking problems": Occasionally, there is a pup who seems determined to relieve himself inside the house, regardless of how often he has the opportunity to go outside. This dog may require punishment. Make certain he is equipped with a collar and piece of line so he can’t avoid correction. When you discover a mess, move in fast, take him to the place of his error, and hold his head close enough so that he associates his error with the punishment. Punish him by spanking him with a light strap or switch. Either one is better than a folded newspaper. It is important to your future relationship that you do not rush at him and start swinging before you get hold of him. When he’s been spanked, take him outside. Chances are, if you are careful in your feeding and close observation, you will not have to do much punishing. Be consistent in your handling. To have a pup almost house-broken and then force him to commit an error by not providing an opportunity to go outside is very unfair. Careful planning will make your job easier. The same general techniques of housebreaking apply to grown dogs that are inexperienced in the house. For the grown dog who was reliable in the house and then backslides, the method of correction differs somewhat. In this group of "backsliders" we have the "revenge piddler." This dog protests being alone by messing on the floor and often in the middle of a bed. The first step of correction is to confine the dog closely in a part of the house when you go away, so that he is constantly reminded of his obligation. The fact that he once was reliable in the house is proof that the dog knows right from wrong, and it leaves you no other course than to punish him sufficiently to convince him that the satisfaction of his wrongdoing is not worth the consequences. If the punishment is not severe enough, some of these "backsliders" will think they’re winning and will continue to mess in the house. An indelible impression can sometimes be made by giving the dog a hard spanking of long duration, then leaving him tied by the mess he’s made so you can come back at twenty minute intervals and punish him again for the same thing. In most cases, the dog that deliberately does this disagreeable thing cannot be made reliable by the light spanking that some owners seem to think is adequate punishment. It will be better for your dog, as well as the house, if you really pour it on him. Some of the new "breaking scents" on the market can aid in your house-breaking program. One type discourages the dog from even visiting an area. Another encourages him to relieve himself in the area where it is sprinkled. Your pet shop should be able to supply further information on the brands available in your district. Be fair to your dog in what and when you feed him and be consistent in your efforts to housebreak him, and you’ll soon accomplish the job. BARKING, WHINING, HOWLING, YODELING, SCREAMING, AND WAILING The fact that you realize you have such a problem makes it certain you have "reproved" the dog often enough to let him know you were against his sound effects, even though your reproving didn’t quiet them, so we’ll bypass the loudly clapped hands, the cup of water in his face, and the "shame-shames" and start with something more emphatic. We’ll begin with the easiest kind of vocalist to correct: the one that charges gates, fences, doors, and windows, barking furiously at familiar or imaginary people and objects. A few clusters of BBs from a good slingshot, in conjunction with the light line and plenty of temptations, will cause such a dog to use his mind rather than his mouth. But you won’t make the permanent impression unless you supply dozens of opportunities for him to exercise the control he thus acquires. Make sure these opportunities don’t always come at the same time of the day, else he may learn to observe the "quiet hour" and pursue his old routines at other times. With the help of the light line, it will be easy to follow the BBs with a long down to make sure he gets the most from his lesson. As was mentioned before, eliminating the senseless barking will not lessen the dog’s value as a  watchdog but rather, as he grows more discriminating, increase it. The dog who vocalizes in bratty protest or lonesomeness because you’re gone constitutes a different problem. If it is impractical for someone to stay with him constantly (there are owners who cater to neurosis by employing dog sitters), you’ll have to heed the neighbors and the law and quiet the dog. This calls for a little ingenuity as well as a heavy hand. Attach a line to your dog’s collar, so your corrective effort doesn’t turn into a footrace around the house until you reach a stalemate under the bed. This use of the line in the correction will also serve to establish it as a reminder to be quiet as the dog drags it around when you’re not present. Next, equip yourself with a man’s leather belt or a strap heavy enough to give your particular dog a good tanning. Yup-we’re going to strike him. Real hard. Remember, you’re dealing with a dog who knows he should be quiet and neighbors who have legal rights to see that he does. Now leave, and let your fading footsteps tell the dog of your going. When you’ve walked to a point where he’ll think you’re gone but where you could hear any noises he might make, stop and listen. If you find a comfortable waiting place on a nearby porch, be careful not to talk or laugh. Tests show a dog’s hearing to be many times as sharp as yours. When the noise comes, instead of trying to sneak up to the door so you can barge in while he’s still barking, which is generally impossible, respond to his first sound with an emphatic bellow of "out," and keep on bellowing as you charge back to his area. Thunder through the door or gate, snatch up the belt that you’ve conveniently placed, and descend on him. He’ll have no chance to dodge if you grab the line  and reel him in until his front feet are raised off the floor or, if he’s a big dog, until you’ve snubbed him up with a hitch on something. While he’s held in close, lay the strap vigorously against his thighs. Keep pouring it on him until he thinks it’s the bitter end. A real whaling now may cut down somewhat on the number of repeat performances that will be necessary. When you’re finished and the dog is convinced that he is, put him on a long down to think things over  while you catch your breath. After fifteen or twenty minutes, release  him from the stay and leave the area again. So that you won’t feel remorseful, reflect on the truth that a great percentage of the barkers who are given away to "good homes" end up in the kindly black box with the sweet smell. Personally, I’ve always felt that it’s even better to spank children, even if they "cry out," than to "put them to sleep." You might have a long wait on that comfortable porch before your dog starts broadcasting again. When he does, let your long range bellow tie the consequent correction to his first sound and repeat the spanking, if anything emphasizing it a bit more. It might be necessary to spend a Saturday or another day off so that you’ll have time to follow through sufficiently. When you have a full day, you will be able to convince him each yelp will have a bad consequence, and the consistency will make your job easier. If he gets away with his concert part of the time, he’ll be apt to gamble on your inconsistency. After a half dozen corrections, "the reason and the correction" will be tied in close enough association so that you can move in on him without the preliminary bellowing of "out." From then on, it’s just a case of laying for the dog and supplying enough bad consequences of his noise so he’ll no longer feel like gambling. Occasionally, there is a dog who seems to sense that you’re hiding nearby and will utter no sound. He also seems to sense when you have really gone away, at least according to the neighbors. Maybe his sensing actually amounts to close observation. He could be watching and listening for the signs of your actual going. Make a convincing operation of leaving, even if it requires changing clothes and being unusually noisy as you slam the doors on the family car and drive away. Arrange with a friend to trade cars a block or two from your house so you can come back and park within earshot without a single familiar sound to tell the dog you’ve returned. A few of these car changes are generally enough to fool the most alert dog. Whether your dog believes you are gone anytime you step out of the house or requires … read more »

Response:

Hello rihadink0,

> This is a dog for cripes sake!

Exactly. That’s why I teach people HOWE to handle and train them, I’m a dog trainer. > JH makes it sound like a person in a fur coat.

Not at all. I’ve specialized in dog behavior and temperament problems and protection training for thirty eight years, mostly with giant breed dogs. > My dog’s life may depend on INSTANT obedience to a command.

EXACTLY. And you don’t get any faster than conditioned reflex to a command. I teach you HOWE to get an instant, reliable come command intstalled as a conditioned reflex, in about one hour. > I do not want him "thinking" about it.

Right. We don’t want the dog thinking when he’s supposed to be REFLEXING. HOWEver, when we’re breaking a behavior, we DO want the dog THINIKING, but not about the inappropriate behavior, because that would train the inappropriate behavior, WOULDN’T IT. > And no my dog is not abused and yes he LOVES to work.

Certainly. But do you know HOWE to train? That’s the question. Competent trainers do not complain about my methods, they study them. Have you got any quesions? I suggest you read my FREE Wits’ End Dog Training Method manual. > Virginia Cleary > Rihadin Kennels > http://rihadin.freeservers.com > & The Crafty K9 > http://craftyk9.theshoppe.com > Phoenix, AZ

"I know that most men, including those at ease with problems of the greatest complexity, can seldom accept even the simplest and most obvious truth if it would oblige them to admit the falsity of conclusions which they have delighted in explaining to colleagues, proudly taught to others, and which they have woven, thread by thread, into the fabric of their lives."                                 -Leo Tolstoy- Is it any wonder that the following sig file has generated more complaints to my personal email than any other controversial post I have made to date, bar none?:                                 CAVEAT If you have to do things to your dog to train him that you would rather not have to do, then you shouldn’t be doing them. If you have a dog trainer who tells you to jerk your dog around, choke him, pinch his ears, or twist his toes, shock, shake, slap, scold, hit, chin cuff, scruff shake or punish your dog in any manner, that corrections are appropriate, that the dog won’t think of you as the punisher, or that corrections are not harmful, or if they can’t train your dog to do what you want, look for a trainer that knows HOWE. Sincerely, Jerry Howe, Wits’ End Dog Training http://www.doggydoright.com Nature, to be mastered, must be obeyed.                                 -Francis Bacon- There are terrible people who, instead of solving a problem, bungle it and make it more difficult for all who come after. Who ever can’t hit the nail on the head should, please, not hit at all.                                 -Nietzsche- The abilities to think, rationalize and solve problems are learned qualities. The Wits’ End Dog Training Method challenges the learning centers in the dogs brain. These centers, once challenged, develop and continue to grow to make him smarter. The Wits’ End Dog Training method capitalizes on praising split seconds of canine thought, strategy, and timing, not mindless hours of forced repetition, constant corrections, and scolding.                                 -Jerry Howe-

Response:

> This is a dog for cripes sake! JH makes it sound like a person in a fur coat. > My dog’s life may depend on INSTANT obedience to a command. I do not want him > "thinking" about it. And no my dog is not abused and yes he LOVES to work.

It’s also a "response" to a post Ruth Mays made on 4/13/2000. Jerry’s playing his strawman game again because nobody will talk to him. Lynn K.

Response:

This is a dog for cripes sake! JH makes it sound like a person in a fur coat. My dog’s life may depend on INSTANT obedience to a command. I do not want him "thinking" about it. And no my dog is not abused and yes he LOVES to work. Virginia Cleary Rihadin Kennels http://rihadin.freeservers.com & The Crafty K9 http://craftyk9.theshoppe.com Phoenix, AZ

Response:

Hello People, Hello mays, You’re still confused. I’m not being sarcastic or critical. It is confusing for people who aren’t familiar with the concept.

> But unless different sounds are being used for different > results, how is the dog to know that the sound means "sit" this > time, and "down" next time, and "stay" the time after that?

The sound can be used to train or break a behavior. The idea is, when TRAINING a behavior we use the sound ONLY to punctuate alternate cue words (commands), and the sound must come exactly on the cue (command) word. When BREAKING a behavior, we create the sound as soon as we notice the onset of the undesired behavior and immediately follow the sound with prolonged, non physical praise for five to fifteen seconds, unless the behavior resumes, in which case we simply make the next sound and praise, and so forth, UNTIL THE BEHAVIOR IS BROKEN. The sound must never come from the same source twice in a row. After the dog has been conditioned using voice commands and hand signals (at the same time) by associating it with the sound cue on the second and fourth requests (commands), if the dog fails to respond to a command, we reissue the command with the appropriate alternate sound and praise. The PRAISE IS PART OF THE COMMAND, it LOCKS HIS THOUGHTS on the IDEA of the command… The sound is a TRIGGER, pulling down remembrances of all the prior conditioning (provided you did it correctly). ANY sound may be used, perhaps a snap of the fingers, a whistle, a coin tossed beyond the dog, a soda can or film can with a couple pennies (but the can must be crushed so as NOT to roll and make a prolonged sound thus taking his attention away from YOU). And you got to follow the technique, even from one day to the next. Example: if your dog doesn’t come in from the yard the first time you call him, you’d quickly repeat the command with a sound on the cue word (come) and praise him, and the dog will come in, because we trigger the memory of the prior conditioning… Let’s say the dog works fine for the next couple of days… Then, he again refuses to come in from the yard the first time you call him, you’d quickly STOP AND THINK…. WHAT WAS THE LAST INSTANCE I REQUIRED A SOUND TO MAKE HIM COME??? You’d think back to a couple of days ago, and remember that you made the sound by snapping your fingers and calling him from the doorway. That means that THIS TIME, YOU MUST create the sound beyond the dog, perhaps using a soda can. HOWE’S THAT hit you? Sounds pretty good to me. And of course your going to forget, or screw it up, but we can always fix it, because we AREN’T CHOKING AND JERKING AND SHOCKING the dog, so there’s no harm done. So, let’s say you’ve trained the come command as a conditioned reflex. That’s the first thing I do while working on the Family Leadership Exercise. In about fifteen minutes we’ve got the dog walking calmly by our side, looking up and getting praised, and smiling and wagging his tail gently AND, he comes the first time we call him. Now I don’t care HOWE you want to cut it, YOU CAN’T BEAT THAT INTO THEM WITH A STICK. So, that’s why I’m fighting like hell to get some of you folks to understand that with JUST THAT as a start, the CALIBER of ADVANCED TRAINING OF ANY KIND, will be FAR SUPERIOR to any other method that you or our "professor” friends can come up with. Let’s wager on that, shall we? I bet my life on it, just like in my challenge to freaky fraud die. Notice he didn’t jump at the chance to feed me to Maddy… I would own his dog, and he knows it, and I think YOU DO TOO. > Merely making sound at a dog will not get it to do what you > want, no matter how much praise you follow that sound with.

No, of course not. YOU HAVE TO UNDERSTAND AND FOLLOW THE TECHNIQUE. I could teach a dog to come pretty reliably in LESS time it takes FOR THIS ONE POST. HOW’S THAT HIT YOU? > You have to create an association between some > specific signal (auditory or visual) and the desired result.

We’re not MERELY making a sound in the process of teaching a behavior. We are using a scientific technique of CONDITIONING to cause a REFLEXIVE behavior. You have to create an association between the sound, the command, and the praise and the tone and tempo and even the environment, must be the same, and the sound must always alternate, everything must be as exact as possible, until the command is conditioned, and VIOLIN! He’s GOT IT! It happens fast, but not the first or second time you do it. At least NOT UNTIL he’s a little more highly conditioned, then he will learn a new command the second time he is given the command, but you do have to do something to help, LIKE DEMONSTRATE the desired behavior. Let’s say we’re teaching the come command. I like to do that with the entire family at once. We pair off and whomever the dog is NOT with, THEY call the dog. HOPEFULLY, the dog will not come running the first time, because we WANT him to refuse the command, so we can use the sound to CONDITION the response… When the dog is called, if he doesn’t respond immediately on the sound, the people with him respond to demonstrate to the dog. Just because your dog comes willingly 99% of the time, that does not mean he’s got a CONDITIONED REFLEX. > Praise has to follow the desired action, not precede it, or the > dog will be hopelessly confused.

YOUR DEAD WRONG. Praise LOCKS THE DOG’S THOUGHTS on the command. That’s why I stress NON PHYSICAL praise, because we DON’T WANT TO INTERRUPT THE DOG’S THINKING. > This whole thread reminds me of an ad on tv- for the lottery.

I love to gamble. But I don’t gamble with dog’s lives or temperaments. Luck is abundant, but chancy. Using force to train a dog is chancy, because he may not knuckle under, and he could get upset about being jerked, choked, and shocked. THAT’S why the  pounds are full. Sure, most of the dogs in pounds are there because of negligent owners, but the dogs who have failed force training are the first ones in, and the first ones out. THEY KILL THEM because they’ve been made aggressive through abusive training methods like the ones taught here. At least stray and neglected dogs have a chance at adoption. Unless someone like lyinglynn gets her filthy hands on him in the shelter, then she’ll jerk him around and choke him for a while, and let’s JUST HOPE he don’t object, OR HE’S DEAD. > The scene is a bare room with two audio speakers and a dog. > The speakers issue commands, followed by "good dog", > whether or not the dog does what is asked. Mostly the dog > just sits there ignoring the whole thing….

That’s because the dog wasn’t properly conditioned. My dog was laying on the floor when a dog training program on tv told the dog to SIT!, and my dog flipped out and wanted to tear his head off of him for giving a command in that manner. She growled for thirty minutes at him for talking down to another dog like that… > an oddly Doggy Do Right scenario….

INDEED, you got that Right, AND HOWE… http://www.doggydoright.com > Ruth Mays > I recommend to all rpdb readers that Jerry Howe > should be ignored as a crank and waste of time

I recommend that all rpdb readers who have a disclaimer about Jerry Howe, BE WATCHED. Jerry Howe does NOT HURT dogs to train them. Those I accuse of ABUSING DOGS, tell you I hurt them and TELL YOU to killfile ME. Why are they so FREAKED OUT? Because I am EXPOSING them as the DOG ABUSERS they are… WHERE THERE’S SMOKE, THERE’S FIRE…  j;~} Is it any wonder that the following sig file has generated more complaints to my personal email than any other controversial post I have made to date, bar none?:                                             caveat If you have to do things to your dog to train him, that you would rather not have to do, then you shouldn’t be doing them. If you have a dog trainer that tells you to jerk your dog around, choke him, pinch his ears, or twist his toes, shock, shake, slap, scold, hit, or punish him in any manner, that corrections are appropriate, that the dog won’t think of you as the punisher, or that corrections are not harmful, or if they can’t train your dog to do what you want, look for a trainer that knows Howe. Sincerely, Jerry Howe, Wits’ End Dog Training http://www.doggydoright.com Nature, to be mastered, must be obeyed.                       -Francis Bacon- There are terrible people who, instead of solving a problem, bungle it and make it more difficult for all who come after.  Who ever can’t hit the nail on the head should, please, not hit at all.                      -Nietzsche- The abilities to think, rationalize and solve problems are learned qualities. The Wits’ End Dog Training Method challenges the learning centers in the dogs brain. These centers, once challenged, develop and continue to grow exponentially, to make him smarter. The Wits’ End Dog Training method capitalizes on praising split seconds of canine thought, strategy, and timing, not mindless hours of forced repetition, constant corrections, and scolding.                   -Jerry Howe-

Response: