Posts belonging to Category 'dogbehaviorinfo.com Dog Behavior Training'

Dog came back

Question:

I agree.  I have an Australian Cattle Dog who will just sit on the porch if I leave him out and is even learning not to cross certain lines on my property.  I also have a Beagle/Bassett mix who will roam to his heart’s content if I so much as get distracted while he is unrestrained.  It doesn’t matter what I do to try to discourage this behavior.  You can almost see the conflict in his eyes as if he knows he isn’t supposed to roam, but just can’t help himself.  What I do now is leave him on a 100+ ft lead when I want him to have a little bit if freedom without having to watch him like a hawk. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> The dog’s character keeps him in > I thought different dogs were more or less prone to roam? > For instance, our dog is a herding breed and not likely to wander far from > home base.  But I think other dogs (beagles?) really enjoy getting out and > hunting/tracking/roaming. > If you have a dog that really really wants to wander, I think it’s better to > remove the opportunity to wander (fence and gate) than to "teach" him > something that runs against strong instincts. > I wouldn’t try to teach a greyhound to ignore rabbits racing across a field. > I’d find a different solution that’s easier on everyone (dog included). > Leslie

– Jason    :

Border Collie Mix Behavior

Question:

Please help me understand my 2 year old border collie mix. I rescued her a couple of months ago from a family who kept her in a dog pen 24 and 7 for most of her life.  Princess was originally adopted from the local Humane Society and I was able to get all the paperwork that came with her.  The papers indicate that she is a border collie mix, but she looks just like a "pure" border collie except that she has droopy, beagle-ish ears, a rather short coat, and a curled tail.  I have never had a dog, just cats so I am just about totally unfamiliar with dogs and dog behavior.  I have read about border collies and obedience training, but I have a couple of questions I can’t seem to find anything on. Princess is the sweetest animal, but is extremely jealous about her toys. She usually keeps all of her toys (there are many) in a pile in the middle of the living room and refuses to allow any of the five cats who share the house with her to come anywhere near them.  Should one of the cats attempt to play with one of their own toys (or anything at all for that matter), Princess will gently take it from them and add it to her collection.  So far, nothing has helped.  I have a roomful of cats sitting around and looking at a pile of toys they can’t touch :-( Also, when we first adopted Princess she wet whenever she got excited or whenever my husband (who is very, very gentle) expressed any kind of disapproval to her.  I think she may view him as the alpha pack leader ???? We seem to have gotten past this problem, but now lately she has been getting- how shall I say it?- rather frisky on his leg when she gets excited.  She’s spayed and I’ve never heard of a female dog doing that. What is she expressing?  My husband and I cannot decide if it’s a submissive behavior or a dominant behavior, but it’s certainly embarrassing…. Any explanations or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. ~Marie

Response:

> rather frisky on his leg when she gets >excited.  She’s spayed and I’ve never heard of a female dog doing that. >What is she expressing?  

Dogs do this for any number of reasons:  excitment, dominance, happiness, stress, etc.  It’s not a sex related issue, both sexes will do it and not necessarily to the same sex :) The easiest way to deal with it is to teach your dog that it is not acceptable.  Tell her OFF when she starts, take yourself away from her and ignore her totally.  When she is sitting nicely, then pet her.  You can also teach her to sit politely for petting. Dogstar716 Come see Gunnars Life: http://hometown.aol.com/dogstar716/index.html "AKC papers do not mean you are getting a quality dog. They are merely a birth certificate. Even puppy mill pet shop pups have AKC papers" – Bob Maida

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Please help me understand my 2 year old border collie mix. I rescued her a > couple of months ago from a family who kept her in a dog pen 24 and 7 for > most of her life.  Princess was originally adopted from the local Humane > Society and I was able to get all the paperwork that came with her.  The > papers indicate that she is a border collie mix, but she looks just like a > "pure" border collie except that she has droopy, beagle-ish ears, a rather > short coat, and a curled tail.  I have never had a dog, just cats so I am > just about totally unfamiliar with dogs and dog behavior.  I have read about > border collies and obedience training, but I have a couple of questions I > can’t seem to find anything on. > Princess is the sweetest animal, but is extremely jealous about her toys. > She usually keeps all of her toys (there are many) in a pile in the middle > of the living room and refuses to allow any of the five cats who share the > house with her to come anywhere near them.  Should one of the cats attempt > to play with one of their own toys (or anything at all for that matter), > Princess will gently take it from them and add it to her collection.  So > far, nothing has helped.  I have a roomful of cats sitting around and > looking at a pile of toys they can’t touch :-(

Normal dog behavior.  Actually you got the generous side of it if she is "gently" taking the toys back.  Dogs range from being willing to allow another to take toys to those that will snap and snarl to those that will full out attack another dog who dares take its toy.  Use a baby gate to allow the cats a dog free place to have their toys and play.  Otherwise just let them work it out.  If you take a look at clicker training http://www.dog-play.com/clicker.html  I think you will quickly see how you can teach her to put her toys away.  From there you can start working on the concept of what she may and may not guard from the cats.  Make sure her toys and their toys are distinctly different. > Also, when we first adopted Princess she wet whenever she got excited or > whenever my husband (who is very, very gentle) expressed any kind of > disapproval to her.  I think she may view him as the alpha pack leader ????

Normal.  Submissive urination is usually something not under the concious control of the dog.  Increasing self confidence is necessary to "fix" the problem. > We seem to have gotten past this problem, but now lately she has been > getting- how shall I say it?- rather frisky on his leg when she gets > excited.  She’s spayed and I’ve never heard of a female dog doing that.

Normal, and common.  However normal does not mean you must allow it.  When she does this ask her for some different behavior – a trick like "roll-over" often is effective because it disappates energy – but be careful what you choose as it will likely become a habit.  "roll-over" and "spin" work well but can be a nuisance in confined areas. > What is she expressing?  My husband and I cannot decide if it’s a submissive > behavior or a dominant behavior, but it’s certainly embarrassing….

Generally people will consider that a sign of dominence, but it is also a form of play. > Any explanations or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

It sounds like you have a terrific dog.  Do some more reading and I think you will be fine.  As she beins to get more comfortable you will want to make sure you provide enough structure for her.  Let her work a bit for her food, toys, walks etc.   Diane Blackman http://www.dog-play.com/  http://www.dog-play.com/TOTE.html Training is a game that you will play with our dog as long as he lives. "Smart Trainers — Brilliant Dogs" by Janet Lewis

Response:

Help–Need constructive advice!

Question:

I HOPE you caught the Dateline or Nightline episode last night that was about exactly your subject.  There were 2 difficult dogs they were working with, one of them being a Chow.  With proper training, both dogs accepted the new baby and everyone ended up being fine.  Actually, the chow had a problem with biting in the first place.  By the end of his new training, though, the baby (under age one) was smacking him in the nose and the Chow was licking her as she did so! It was pretty amazing.  If you didn’t see it, maybe you can find someone who did, OR, I’d contact the show.  I believe it was on NBC following Titans.  It was a great segment. Good luck!!!!!

|>Hi Everyone. |> |>Please be kind, as I’m a new poster to the group. |> |>I have 5-year-old mixed-breed dog (part chow, |>part dobe, part lab and maybe shepherd) that my |>wife and I rescued from our Humane Society |>several years ago.  She was a puppy who had |>survived a cold snap in which her mother and |>siblings had perished. |> |>We adopted her at about 6 weeks and raised her |>with our 3 cats (we now have 7).  She was our |>first dog, though we later added two more. |> |>Dido is very friendly with the cats, and even |>snuggles up with them at naptime.  She loves my |>wife and me dearly and only shows aggression to |>us in certain situations (ie- pig ears, which are |>now VERBOTEN in the house, nail-trimming, and |>being startled awake). |> |>The problem is that she is very unpredictable |>around strangers.  She loves my brother and some |>of my friends, but around others (including my |>father) she is very tense and snippy.  Where we |>used to live, we had a pet-sitter whom Dido loved |>very much and with whom she got along well.  Now |>we have moved and can’t get a pet-sitter because |>Dido reacts too unpredictably around them. |> |>To top it all off, we are about 2 months away |>from having our first child.  Our priorities have |>to be with the safety of our child, and we are |>concerned from our past experience that Dido will |>be untrustworthy with the child. |> |>Our close friends in animal care have given us |>the suggestion that Dido be put down.  My wife |>took her to a vet today (one whom we trust), and |>the vet made the same suggestion. This would |>crush us both, and we wonder if there isn’t |>something else we can do.  We are treating Dido |>with much greater discipline now, and working to |>acclimate her to change, but we worry that it’s |>either too little too late, or worse, genetic and |>unalterable. |> |>If it was just my wife and me, it would be one |>thing, but now it’s the baby that we worry |>about.  Though Dido has only attacked another dog |>once in her life (and that was easily broken up |>with no injuries other than lost fur), we are |>terrified that euthanasia is our only alternative. |> |>Please, if you have advice or experience to |>share, please do so.  I don’t want to kill my |>dog, but it if I have no alternative but to see |>my child injured or ensure that my dog has a |>miserable life, I guess I won’t have a choice. |> |> |>Thank you for reading. |> |> |>Geoff Fargo |> |> |> |> — Cindy M. "I like to enjoy the thrill of living every day, every hour of the day, for we are here only once, and let’s feel the wind while we may."   The "Wicked" Errol Flynn

Response:

> Hm…did you have the opportunity to socialize her > when she was young?  I’m trying to determine whether > this is due to not being exposed to very many strangers > as a young puppy, or if this is despite plenty of > socialization.  It makes a big difference.

Dido has spent time with other people, but not a lot of them.  We tend to spend a lot of time together with our pets and not entertaining guests.  The only people who really would visit us with our pets during Dido’s youth were our pet-loving friends.  She does fine with people who seem to have a "dog awareness," but sometimes she just reacts negatively to certain people. Clearly she is intimidated by the people when she bites them, but she has never been a submissive urinator or shown any strongly submissive behaviors. > Dogs are also frequently okay with one set of > people and not another — do you know how > she is with children generally?  All the > interactions you described are with adults.

We don’t have any friends with children, so we have no way of knowing for sure how she will act.  She loves the cats, and it may be that she’s intimidated by those larger than her, but there’s no certainty there. >  What you have described is indeed a worrisome > situation, but it could go either way, and to determine > that really needs an IRL evaluation of the dog, not > one provided on this forum.  You can’t help but leave > out many details in a written description of a dog’s > behavior, and some of those details are bound to be > crucial.

You are correct.  Maybe we put misguided hope in the veterinarian to provide a psychological/temperament analysis of the dog.  Are there any internet resources for finding local dog behaviorists in my local area? > My suggestions are as follows.  There are a number of > very good books on dogs and babies/children, such as > Pooches and Small Fry, etc.

I agree with this one.  We’re already looking these ones up. > I would also consult with a knowledgeable trainer.  A > vet is not always experienced with training and behavior, > and I would not go by a vet’s recommendation in these > type of things — I have heard too much really bad > training advice come from vets.

Same question as I had above–do you know of an internet resource for this information?  We’re new in town and not sure where to find this kind of information. Thank you, Cindy, for your thoughful reply.  I appreciate it.  It’s nice to get advice and no sales pitch. Geoff

Response:

> In this case, "unpredictable" means that if she takes a dislike to them, for > whatever reason, she has and WILL bite. They’re saying some get through > unscathed. They’re very uncomfortable with the implications. They’re > avoiding saying the dog is dangerous. She is.

How do you know that without seeing what the dog is doing? Lynn K.

Response:

Hello lyinglynn,

> Geoff, none of us can tell you what is going on with Dido > given the limited description of her behavior.

What limited? The dog occasionally growls and snaps at them when disturbed, and is aggressive towards strangers. > Unpredictable with strangers

No. He’s PREDICTABLE. > and tense and snippy

O.K. NOW you know what’s the matter. The dog needs to learn to relax. > really doesn’t tell us whether she’s being protective, > territorial, possessive,  frightened, etc..

What the hell difference does that make? The dog snaps when disturbed suddenly, and doesn’t trust strangers. > In fact, we can’t really tell without seeing her in person.

Can’t tell WHAT??? What KIND of aggression the dog has? Does that mean you’re gonna HANG the dog any differently? HANGING tje dog is what koehler would have them do. "I LOVE KOEHLER." Your words. That’s the treatment in the koehler book. > And that’s the best advice I can give you.

You HURT dogs to train them. You think THAT sounds like someone who’s got lots of good advice??? > Get referrals to a good trainer/behaviorist who can observe > her in the home situation.

You mean someone like yourself? Trainers who need to SEE behaviors are incompetent, as are trainers who jerk and choke and shock dogs and twist and pinch their ears and toes. BUT you only do those things when you PROOF a dog, HUH? > People like vets and friends really aren’t qualified > to deal with behavior problems.

Right. But some lying, dog abusing coward like you is gonna jerk and choke the dog for them??? And take a pocketfull of money. And then tell them to kill the dog, that they dun everything right??? The dog is 99% good, but we got to KILL that one percent TO BE FAIR? And then we can all pass around the crying towel and talk about BAD BREEDING. > With a baby on the way you really > can’t afford the risk of not getting expert advice.

There’s less than 10% chance of finding a competent trainer or behaviorist. Most of them use the nilif, crating, and leash and choke collar corrections, like YOU do. > Lynn K.

And you kill dogs you can’t intimidate into subordinating themselves to your AUTHORITY. Your pal, Jerry "The Phony," Howe. P.S. For the record, you are a proven liar and dog abuser. j;~}

Response:

In this case, "unpredictable" means that if she takes a dislike to them, for whatever reason, she has and WILL bite. They’re saying some get through unscathed. They’re very uncomfortable with the implications. They’re avoiding saying the dog is dangerous. She is.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Geoff, none of us can tell you what is going on with Dido > given the limited description of her behavior.  Unpredictable > with strangers and tense and snippy really doesn’t tell us > whether she’s being protective, territorial, possessive, > frightened, etc..  In fact, we can’t really tell without > seeing her in person. > And that’s the best advice I can give you.  Get referrals to > a good trainer/behaviorist who can observe her in the home > situation.  People like vets and friends really aren’t qualified > to deal with behavior problems.  With a baby on the way you really > can’t afford the risk of not getting expert advice. > Lynn K.

Response:

Geoff, none of us can tell you what is going on with Dido given the limited description of her behavior.  Unpredictable with strangers and tense and snippy really doesn’t tell us whether she’s being protective, territorial, possessive, frightened, etc..  In fact, we can’t really tell without seeing her in person. And that’s the best advice I can give you.  Get referrals to a good trainer/behaviorist who can observe her in the home situation.  People like vets and friends really aren’t qualified to deal with behavior problems.  With a baby on the way you really can’t afford the risk of not getting expert advice. Lynn K.

Response:

Hello geoff, I gave you the ONLY information you’re gonna get. AND, there was no sales pitch. The Wits’ End Dog Training Method manual is FREE, if you care to LEARN HOWE to handle your dog so you don’t end up KILLING HIM in a couple months. You’re going to try dominating the dog and he’s DEAD. Jerry.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hm…did you have the opportunity to socialize her > when she was young?  I’m trying to determine whether > this is due to not being exposed to very many strangers > as a young puppy, or if this is despite plenty of > socialization.  It makes a big difference. > Dido has spent time with other people, but not a lot of them.  We tend > to spend a lot of time together with our pets and not entertaining > guests.  The only people who really would visit us with our pets during > Dido’s youth were our pet-loving friends.  She does fine with people > who seem to have a "dog awareness," but sometimes she just reacts > negatively to certain people. > Clearly she is intimidated by the people when she bites them, but she > has never been a submissive urinator or shown any strongly submissive > behaviors. > Dogs are also frequently okay with one set of > people and not another — do you know how > she is with children generally?  All the > interactions you described are with adults. > We don’t have any friends with children, so we have no way of knowing > for sure how she will act.  She loves the cats, and it may be that > she’s intimidated by those larger than her, but there’s no certainty > there. >  What you have described is indeed a worrisome > situation, but it could go either way, and to determine > that really needs an IRL evaluation of the dog, not > one provided on this forum.  You can’t help but leave > out many details in a written description of a dog’s > behavior, and some of those details are bound to be > crucial. > You are correct.  Maybe we put misguided hope in the veterinarian to > provide a psychological/temperament analysis of the dog.  Are there any > internet resources for finding local dog behaviorists in my local > area? > My suggestions are as follows.  There are a number of > very good books on dogs and babies/children, such as > Pooches and Small Fry, etc. > I agree with this one.  We’re already looking these ones up. > I would also consult with a knowledgeable trainer.  A > vet is not always experienced with training and behavior, > and I would not go by a vet’s recommendation in these > type of things — I have heard too much really bad > training advice come from vets. > Same question as I had above–do you know of an internet resource for > this information?  We’re new in town and not sure where to find this > kind of information. > Thank you, Cindy, for your thoughful reply.  I appreciate it.  It’s > nice to get advice and no sales pitch. > Geoff

Response:

> Hi Everyone. > Please be kind, as I’m a new poster to the group.

My advice is to proceed with caution but not anxiety. I mean don’t create something in the dog that would otherwise not be there by being obviously anxious about this dog being around your new baby. Don’t leave baby alone with dog, even when baby seems out of reach of dog. Don’t even hope of keeping this dog if it has bitten and held or bitten repeatedly in the same aggressive outburst in the past, rodents and other dogs excluded. I’d suggest getting a looped audio tape of baby made noises including crying, which you start playing for your dog now. Play it all the time while you guys do what you normally do while at home. Get the dog used to spending time alone while you are home: separate room, crate (Something nice to chew to keep dog busy). Sorry, but it seems like this will be a good thing to start doing now since two months is short notice for a training rehab program and you might just need this management tool. Get her used to it now, so it’s not another thing for her to get used to on top of all the stuff that’s coming with the baby. Get her on a new exercise schedule (20 or 30 minutes of vigorous running that you participate in either by tossing ball or stick, holding tug rag, or running along side) and maintain this schedule throughout the pregnancy, delivery, and after baby comes home. This is her special time with you. Later, the baby and your wife should join you. She already knows something’s up if your wife’s due in 2 months, so the fact that she hasn’t started acting odd or unusually anxious is a good sign. My feeling is that she will be fine with the new baby, but you certainly should not be naive (which you obviously aren’t). Trick is to not treat the baby as off limits to her while still remaining aware that there’s a potential problem, and that dog’s are damned quick. This is really hard to do. You need to treat a damaged dog as normal, while remembering she’s damaged. It’s your risk and your call. I don’t know too much about your dog so I can’t say I’d take that risk with my own child, but from what you’ve written I’d go ahead and make the introduction as free of stress and uneventful as possible, and give the dog a chance. It does not sound like this is the dog who can not be trusted to be in the same room as an infant. Take it slow, and give the dog a chance within reasonable bounds. And don’t allow yourself to get too comfortable with a dangerous situation. You are giving the dog a chance–with a little preparational assistance. You do not want to engage in a rehab program while you protect your child. If the dog can’t handle it, then she can’t handle it.

Response:

>The problem is that she is very unpredictable >around strangers.  She loves my brother and some >of my friends, but around others (including my >father) she is very tense and snippy. > Hm…did you have the opportunity to socialize her > when she was young?  I’m trying to determine whether > this is due to not being exposed to very many strangers > as a young puppy, or if this is despite plenty of > socialization.  It makes a big difference.

At this point, it makes no difference at all WHY this dog is undependable around guests.  It could be her Chow blood. They’re very territorial dogs who frequently bite guests. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Dogs are also frequently okay with one set of > people and not another — do you know how > she is with children generally?  All the > interactions you described are with adults. >To top it all off, we are about 2 months away >from having our first child.  Our priorities have >to be with the safety of our child, and we are >concerned from our past experience that Dido will >be untrustworthy with the child. > OK, I can’t help you here, and I daresay most here > couldn’t.  What you have described is indeed a worrisome > situation, but it could go either way, and to determine > that really needs an IRL evaluation of the dog, not > one provided on this forum.

A behaviorist or trainer would be a fool to say in so many words this is safe with infants.  You can’t help but leave – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> out many details in a written description of a dog’s > behavior, and some of those details are bound to be > crucial. > My suggestions are as follows.  There are a number of > very good books on dogs and babies/children, such as > Pooches and Small Fry, etc.  You should get at least > two such books (I’d order from www.dogwise.com, which > has many dog books available through the mail) and > read them through, to see what you think applies.  I > would also consult with a knowledgeable trainer.  A > vet is not always experienced with training and behavior, > and I would not go by a vet’s recommendation in these > type of things — I have heard too much really bad > training advice come from vets.  It isn’t their specialty — > treatment, medication, illness, those are what they’re > good at.  A competent trainer will know much more about > behavior and what can be done. > –Cindy

Response:

Hi Everyone. Please be kind, as I’m a new poster to the group. I have 5-year-old mixed-breed dog (part chow, part dobe, part lab and maybe shepherd) that my wife and I rescued from our Humane Society several years ago.  She was a puppy who had survived a cold snap in which her mother and siblings had perished. We adopted her at about 6 weeks and raised her with our 3 cats (we now have 7).  She was our first dog, though we later added two more. Dido is very friendly with the cats, and even snuggles up with them at naptime.  She loves my wife and me dearly and only shows aggression to us in certain situations (ie- pig ears, which are now VERBOTEN in the house, nail-trimming, and being startled awake). The problem is that she is very unpredictable around strangers.  She loves my brother and some of my friends, but around others (including my father) she is very tense and snippy.  Where we used to live, we had a pet-sitter whom Dido loved very much and with whom she got along well.  Now we have moved and can’t get a pet-sitter because Dido reacts too unpredictably around them. To top it all off, we are about 2 months away from having our first child.  Our priorities have to be with the safety of our child, and we are concerned from our past experience that Dido will be untrustworthy with the child. Our close friends in animal care have given us the suggestion that Dido be put down.  My wife took her to a vet today (one whom we trust), and the vet made the same suggestion. This would crush us both, and we wonder if there isn’t something else we can do.  We are treating Dido with much greater discipline now, and working to acclimate her to change, but we worry that it’s either too little too late, or worse, genetic and unalterable. If it was just my wife and me, it would be one thing, but now it’s the baby that we worry about.  Though Dido has only attacked another dog once in her life (and that was easily broken up with no injuries other than lost fur), we are terrified that euthanasia is our only alternative. Please, if you have advice or experience to share, please do so.  I don’t want to kill my dog, but it if I have no alternative but to see my child injured or ensure that my dog has a miserable life, I guess I won’t have a choice. Thank you for reading. Geoff Fargo

Response:

>The problem is that she is very unpredictable >around strangers.  She loves my brother and some >of my friends, but around others (including my >father) she is very tense and snippy.  

Hm…did you have the opportunity to socialize her when she was young?  I’m trying to determine whether this is due to not being exposed to very many strangers as a young puppy, or if this is despite plenty of socialization.  It makes a big difference. Dogs are also frequently okay with one set of people and not another — do you know how she is with children generally?  All the interactions you described are with adults. >To top it all off, we are about 2 months away >from having our first child.  Our priorities have >to be with the safety of our child, and we are >concerned from our past experience that Dido will >be untrustworthy with the child.

OK, I can’t help you here, and I daresay most here couldn’t.  What you have described is indeed a worrisome situation, but it could go either way, and to determine that really needs an IRL evaluation of the dog, not one provided on this forum.  You can’t help but leave out many details in a written description of a dog’s behavior, and some of those details are bound to be crucial. My suggestions are as follows.  There are a number of very good books on dogs and babies/children, such as Pooches and Small Fry, etc.  You should get at least two such books (I’d order from www.dogwise.com, which has many dog books available through the mail) and read them through, to see what you think applies.  I would also consult with a knowledgeable trainer.  A vet is not always experienced with training and behavior, and I would not go by a vet’s recommendation in these type of things — I have heard too much really bad training advice come from vets.  It isn’t their specialty — treatment, medication, illness, those are what they’re good at.  A competent trainer will know much more about behavior and what can be done. –Cindy

Response:

Can you help us?

Question:

As you are probably aware, if voting results in Florida stand as they are now, George W. Bush will be our next President. This will have a catastrophic effect on our vital, absolutely indispensable, entertainment industry. Barbara Streisand, Martin Sheen, Susan Sarandon, Whoopie Goldberg, Alec Baldwin — among many others — have sworn to leave the country if George W. Bush is elected President. And this is where YOU can help. We need volunteers to help pack and to load moving vans. We also need airfare for these irreplaceable national treasures so they can relocate before they change their minds. For the cost of a small SUV, you can sponsor one of these celebrities and their unfortunate relocation. You will know that your efforts are helping when you receive postcards, letters and pictures from your chosen "refugee" as he/she learns to become a useful citizen in an undeveloped country of his/her choosing. You will help, won’t you? It costs so little but it means so much. Call 1-800-deport-a-lib. Operators are standing by. Major credit cards are accepted.

Response:

>As you are probably aware, if voting results in Florida stand >as they are now, George W. Bush will be our next President. >This will have a catastrophic effect on our vital, absolutely >indispensable, entertainment industry.

HAHA!  We hope so! >Barbara Streisand, Martin Sheen, Susan Sarandon, Whoopie Goldberg, >Alec Baldwin — among many others — have sworn to leave the >country if George W. Bush is elected President. >And this is where YOU can help. We need volunteers to help pack >and to load moving vans. We also need airfare for these irreplaceable >national treasures so they can relocate before they change their >minds.

[...] HAHA!  Thanks for the laugh! If I knew that the above motley crew would actually *LEAVE* and promise *never* to return, I’d sponsor *all* of them! Especially Alec Baldwin, who actually called for the *assassination* of Charleton Heston! I’ve seen some FRUITCAKES in my time, but Baldwin takes the cake. — Dogman http://www.i1.net/~dogman

Response:

MEGA DITTO

Response:

It’s at least as pertinent to dog behavior and training as your posts are…

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> What has this got to do with dog behavior?? > Post this elsewhere. > Kari Anne. > As you are probably aware, if voting results in Florida stand > as they are now, George W. Bush will be our next President. > This will have a catastrophic effect on our vital, absolutely > indispensable, entertainment industry. > Barbara Streisand, Martin Sheen, Susan Sarandon, Whoopie Goldberg, > Alec Baldwin — among many others — have sworn to leave the > country if George W. Bush is elected President. > And this is where YOU can help. We need volunteers to help pack > and to load moving vans. We also need airfare for these irreplaceable > national treasures so they can relocate before they change their > minds. > For the cost of a small SUV, you can sponsor one of these > celebrities and their unfortunate relocation. > You will know that your efforts are helping when you receive > postcards, letters and pictures from your chosen "refugee" as > he/she learns to become a useful citizen in an undeveloped country of > his/her choosing. > You will help, won’t you? It costs so little but it means so much. > Call 1-800-deport-a-lib. Operators are standing by. Major credit > cards are accepted.

Response:

What has this got to do with dog behavior?? Post this elsewhere. Kari Anne. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> As you are probably aware, if voting results in Florida stand > as they are now, George W. Bush will be our next President. > This will have a catastrophic effect on our vital, absolutely > indispensable, entertainment industry. > Barbara Streisand, Martin Sheen, Susan Sarandon, Whoopie Goldberg, > Alec Baldwin — among many others — have sworn to leave the > country if George W. Bush is elected President. > And this is where YOU can help. We need volunteers to help pack > and to load moving vans. We also need airfare for these irreplaceable > national treasures so they can relocate before they change their > minds. > For the cost of a small SUV, you can sponsor one of these > celebrities and their unfortunate relocation. > You will know that your efforts are helping when you receive > postcards, letters and pictures from your chosen "refugee" as > he/she learns to become a useful citizen in an undeveloped country of > his/her choosing. > You will help, won’t you? It costs so little but it means so much. > Call 1-800-deport-a-lib. Operators are standing by. Major credit > cards are accepted.

Response:

Dog Chewing Problem

Question:

Jackie, Beware of Jerry Howe. Jerry Howe is only here to sell you his dubious $100 electronic training device. That is where the link he posts takes you. His "free training manual" offer is the bait for his underhanded "bait & switch" scam. (A purchaser of jerry’s $100 training device has posted a review at: jerry could easily post the correct link but he refuses to do so and, as you will see by his posts, viciously attacks & slanders anyone who disagrees with his dishonest tactics. EdW http://Petloss.com

Response:

Hello, I  have adopted (5), trained, and worked with thousands of shelter dogs. Thank you for adopting one.  The most important thing when adopting a dog is management.  Manage your dog, until he shows that he is ready for a little more freedom.  Giving your dog free run of the house is dangerous, for you and the dog.  Management includes 100% supervision, crate training, tie down, x pens, umbilical cords.  Make sure you have lots of different items for your dog to chew on.  Bully sticks are excellent. (Also called beef sticks, and beef chews.)  There are a few different types of chewing.  There is the back molar chewing, the kind of chewing that almost puts dogs to sleep.  Front incisor chewing, that is dissection, pulling the fur off of bunnies or stuffing out of toys, and then we get into anxiety chewing and boredom chewing.  Anxiety chewing is usually done in the first 20 minutes of the owners departure and directed at exit points, doorways, windows, etc. Boredom chewing is really just normal dog behavior.  It is through management and exercise that we help boredom chewing. Positively, Margaret Hughes Magohn’s Positive Paws Dog Training Sonoma, Ca

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi, > I am new to this group.   We have adopted a little terrier from the animal > shelter, and already he is starting to chew anything, such as shoes, > furniture, children toys, etc.     Does anyone have any advice on how to > train him not to do this?

Response:

Hi, I am new to this group.   We have adopted a little terrier from the animal shelter, and already he is starting to chew anything, such as shoes, furniture, children toys, etc.     Does anyone have any advice on how to train him not to do this?

Response:

>Hi, >I am new to this group.   We have adopted a little terrier from the animal >shelter, and already he is starting to chew anything, such as shoes, >furniture, children toys, etc.     Does anyone have any advice on how to >train him not to do this?

Make certain he has lots of appropriate things to chew on AND spray Bitter Apple on those things he ought not to chew on. –Marshall I have read rpdb for about four years. Consequently, I urge newbies to attend to the civil and rational posts of the rpdb regulars from whom I have learned much. They include: Amy Dahl, Diane Blackman, jdoee, Janet Boss, Susan Fraser, Avrama Gingold, Nancy Holmes, Lynn Kosmakos, Bob Maida, Ruth Mays, Cindy Tittle Moore, Denna Pace, John Richardson, Sarah Sionnach, Ludwig Smith, Jane Webb, and Terri Willis. Marshall Lev Dermer/ Department of Psychology/ University of                http://www.uwm.edu/~dermer "From the time of early robust humans [about 100,000 years ago] to the present, the human brain has stayed the same size." Ernst Mayr, _This is Biology_, p. 240. Consequently, what separates us from those "early robust humans" is culture!

Response:

> Hi, > I am new to this group.   We have adopted a little terrier from the animal > shelter, and already he is starting to chew anything, such as shoes, > furniture, children toys, etc.     Does anyone have any advice on how to > train him not to do this?

Hello Jackie, You won’t get any decent advice from our Gang Of Thugs, they only understand repressing dogs instinctive behaviors, aversion, and punishment… You can get all the information you need to properly handle and train your dog using non force, non confrontational, scientific and psychological behavior modification and conditioning techniques, from the Wits’ End Dog Training Method manual available for free at http://www.doggydoright.com "Thus we should beware of clinging to vulgar opinions, and judge things by reason’s way, not by popular say." Montaigne "Violence is the last refuge of the incompetent." Salvor Hardin "If you cannot convince them, confuse them." H.S. Truman. DRAINING THE SWAMP, AND RELOCATING THE GATORS… j;~) "CUSTOM WILL RECONCILE PEOPLE TO ANY ATROCITY." G.B. Shaw. "I know that most men, including those at ease with problems of the greatest complexity, can seldom accept even the simplest and most obvious truth if it would oblige them to admit the falsity of conclusions which they have delighted in explaining to colleagues, proudly taught to others, and which they have woven, thread by thread, into the fabric of their lives."                                              Leo Tolstoy Is it any wonder that the following sig file has generated more complaints to my personal email than any other controversial post I have made to date, bar none?:                                             caveat If you have to do things to your dog to train him, that you would rather not have to do, then you shouldn’t be doing them. If you have a dog trainer that tells you to jerk your dog around, choke him, pinch his ears, or twist his toes, shock, shake, slap, scold, hit, or punish him in any manner, that corrections are appropriate, that the dog won’t think of you as the punisher, or that corrections are not harmful, or if they can’t train your dog to do what you want, look for a trainer that knows Howe. Sincerely, Jerry Howe, Wits’ End Dog Training http://www.doggydoright.com Nature, to be mastered, must be obeyed.                       -Francis Bacon- There are terrible people who, instead of solving a problem, bungle it and make it more difficult for all who come after.  Who ever can’t hit the nail on the head should, please, not hit at all.                      -Nietzsche- The abilities to think, rationalize and solve problems are learned qualities. The Wits’ End Dog Training Method challenges the learning centers in the dogs brain. These centers, once challenged, develop and continue to grow exponentially, to make him smarter. The Wits’ End Dog Training method capitalizes on praising split seconds of canine thought, strategy, and timing, not mindless hours of forced repetition, constant corrections, and scolding.                   -Jerry Howe-

Response:

>Hi, >I am new to this group.   We have adopted a little terrier from the animal >shelter, and already he is starting to chew anything, such as shoes, >furniture, children toys, etc.     Does anyone have any advice on how to >train him not to do this?

First, thanks for rescuing this dog! Second, because you sound like you’re pretty new to dog ownership, you need at least *one* good dog training book that covers all these kinds of "problems" and a lot more. A good one for you is: "Good Owners, Great Dogs," by Brian Kilcommons You can get it at virtually any decent bookstore. You may also want to enroll yourself and your dog in a good OBEDIENCE class, too, because getting some hands-on help is always a big benefit to the new dog owner. Good luck with your new dog! — Dogman (Who didn’t realize until 11/7/00 that he lived in a banana republic…) http://www.i1.net/~dogman Proud "Gang of Thugs" member in good standing.

Response:

HOWE dumps Marilyn! MARILYN dumps Howe! Chaos in the PP camp! was:dog understands koehler coming back every twenty minutes to punish him again for the same mistake he's tied him up next to, to housetrain him???

Question:

 I’ve been retired ever since Doggy Do Right (and Kitty Will Too) > has been for sale, and only advise people on the net and I am available > for seminars and lectures.

Jerry at one of his seminars  http://home.i1.net/~dogman//jerry.html Before you buy.

Response:

> [...] >> Better yet, why don’t you call your partner-in-crime, Marilyn >> Rammell-Bergeman, that "positive only" bimbo buddy of yours, and ask >> her what that dreaded CHOKE collar is doing on *her* web site?

Thank you "Mason Morgan Matheson" for showing such an interest, and bringing to my notice that out of date information is still showing on the web. You’ve managed to find an old discontinued group of pages… Every regular here knows I used to use the check collar – it’s never been a secret. Jerry showed me in our discussions almost 2 years ago that their use was far from necessary, and possibly harmful to the dog.

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > [...] >> >> Better yet, why don’t you call your partner-in-crime, Marilyn >> >> Rammell-Bergeman, that "positive only" bimbo buddy of yours, and >ask >> >> her what that dreaded CHOKE collar is doing on *her* web site? >> >> http://www.mrprinters.co.uk/page19.html >> >> or ask her what’s with all this "Leader of the pack" stuff? >> >> http://www.mrprinters.co.uk/page13.html >> >> or ask her what’s with all that "check correctly" talk? >> >> http://www.mrprinters.co.uk/page17.html >> >> Huh? >> >> She’s starting to look and talk like ol’ Bill Koehler himself. >> >> Yeah, why don’t you call Mare? >> >> BWAHAHAHAHAHA! >> >> Splash! >> >> PS: Tell her there’s still a chance for her to have a career in >> >> cosmetology…but only if she hurries. >That’s what me and Ritchie were hoping for, but we were young and gay, >and didn’t apply ourselves, we didn’t listen to our teachers, and had >to drop out of hairdressing school, I became a dog trainer, and Ritchie >pursued a career in urban sanitation and disposal. > You have that backwards, I think. > You obviously became the hairdresser (that’s based on your almost > total lack of knowledge pertaining to dogs or dog behavior), and your > pictures, and Ritchie probably become the dog trainer. >> >Why are you asking me about Marilyn’s information? I’m not her >editor. >> Because you keep referring to her as someone here who follows YOUR >> advice (HAHA!), when she’s clearly much closer to following >>>Koehler’s. >Hardly. I suppose she shows people HOWE to use a choke collar as a >backup for a flat collar. > Yeah, right…that’s why there’s no mention whatsoever of the flat > collar, or its use, on her web site. > HAHA! > But you are right about one thing.  The choke collar is a "backup." > It’s a "backup" for when "pure positive" training doesn’t cut it. > HAHA! >I know she doesn’t teach anyone to use it to >jerk and choke a dog, > Well, little man, neither does anyone else here. >> In other words, little man, she’s as big of a PHONY as you are. >Ask HER, not me. > No one has to ask her anymore, the *proof* is readily available on her > own web site. >> And obviously a pretty dam good LIAR, too. > At least you taught her how to LIE as well as you do, so I guess you > are a kind of "trainer" after all. > SPLASH! > — > Dogman > http://www.i1.net/~dogman > Mason Morgan Matheson > 1536 Kingshighway Rd. > St. Charles, MO > Visitors welcome.

Hello lyingdogDUMMY, I asked Marilyn about her site information you copied. She said it was two years old.  Marilyn no longer uses a choke collar for any training, because she learned from me, that it is counterproductive. Ritchie is still throwing trash, and is looking forward to retirement soon. I’ve been retired ever since Doggy Do Right (and Kitty Will Too) has been for sale, and only advise people on the net and I am available for seminars and lectures. Yours for not hurting dogs to train them anymore. Jerry "The Pansy," Howe. You can get all the information you need to properly handle and train your dog using non force, non confrontational, scientific and psychological behavior modification and conditioning techniques, from the Wits’ End Dog Training Method manual available for free at http://www.doggydoright.com "Thus we should beware of clinging to vulgar opinions, and judge things by reason’s way, not by popular say." Montaigne "Violence is the last refuge of the incompetent." Salvor Hardin "If you cannot convince them, confuse them." H.S. Truman. DRAINING THE SWAMP, AND RELOCATING THE GATORS… j;~) "CUSTOM WILL RECONCILE PEOPLE TO ANY ATROCITY." G.B. Shaw. "I know that most men, including those at ease with problems of the greatest complexity, can seldom accept even the simplest and most obvious truth if it would oblige them to admit the falsity of conclusions which they have delighted in explaining to colleagues, proudly taught to others, and which they have woven, thread by thread, into the fabric of their lives."                                              Leo Tolstoy Is it any wonder that the following sig file has generated more complaints to my personal email than any other controversial post I have made to date, bar none?:                                             caveat If you have to do things to your dog to train him, that you would rather not have to do, then you shouldn’t be doing them. If you have a dog trainer that tells you to jerk your dog around, choke him, pinch his ears, or twist his toes, shock, shake, slap, scold, hit, or punish him in any manner, that corrections are appropriate, that the dog won’t think of you as the punisher, or that corrections are not harmful, or if they can’t train your dog to do what you want, look for a trainer that knows Howe. Sincerely, Jerry Howe, Wits’ End Dog Training http://www.doggydoright.com Nature, to be mastered, must be obeyed.                       -Francis Bacon- There are terrible people who, instead of solving a problem, bungle it and make it more difficult for all who come after.  Who ever can’t hit the nail on the head should, please, not hit at all.                      -Nietzsche- The abilities to think, rationalize and solve problems are learned qualities. The Wits’ End Dog Training Method challenges the learning centers in the dogs brain. These centers, once challenged, develop and continue to grow exponentially, to make him smarter. The Wits’ End Dog Training method capitalizes on praising split seconds of canine thought, strategy, and timing, not mindless hours of forced repetition, constant corrections, and scolding.                   -Jerry Howe-

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> [...] > >> Better yet, why don’t you call your partner-in-crime, Marilyn > >> Rammell-Bergeman, that "positive only" bimbo buddy of yours, and ask > >> her what that dreaded CHOKE collar is doing on *her* web site? >Thank you "Mason Morgan Matheson" for showing such an interest, and bringing >to my notice that out of date information is still showing on the web. >You’ve managed to find an old discontinued group of pages… >Every regular here knows I used to use the check collar – it’s never been a >secret. Jerry showed me in our discussions almost 2 years ago that their use >was far from necessary, and possibly harmful to the dog.

BWAHAHAHAHAHAHA! Mare, anyone (i.e., doofuses) here who believes that shit would also probably be interested in one of Howe’s totally worthless DDRs, too, so why don’t you guys go in together on just ONE SCAM SITE? Think of all the money you’ll both save? You can try to SELL your bogus dog training book from there, and Howe can try to SELL his equally bogus DDR there, too? Just think…to get SCAMMED, doofuses would only have to go to ONE web site and not TWO, eh? And doofuses have been known to get lost easily, eh? BWAHAHAHAHAHA! You guys are a piece of work, that’s for sure! HAHA! SPLASH! PS:  Mare, go here, while you still have the time left to make something of yourself.  It’s close by, in the West End of London. Howe can probably even provide you with a reference! http://www.studyaway.com/britain/courses/fashion/colleges/aland.htm — Dogman http://www.i1.net/~dogman Mason Morgan Matheson 1536 Kingshighway Rd. St. Charles, MO Visitors welcome.

Response:

[...] – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> >> Better yet, why don’t you call your partner-in-crime, Marilyn > >> Rammell-Bergeman, that "positive only" bimbo buddy of yours, and >ask > >> her what that dreaded CHOKE collar is doing on *her* web site? > >> http://www.mrprinters.co.uk/page19.html > >> or ask her what’s with all this "Leader of the pack" stuff? > >> http://www.mrprinters.co.uk/page13.html > >> or ask her what’s with all that "check correctly" talk? > >> http://www.mrprinters.co.uk/page17.html > >> Huh? > >> She’s starting to look and talk like ol’ Bill Koehler himself. > >> Yeah, why don’t you call Mare? > >> BWAHAHAHAHAHA! > >> Splash! > >> PS: Tell her there’s still a chance for her to have a career in > >> cosmetology…but only if she hurries. >That’s what me and Ritchie were hoping for, but we were young and gay, >and didn’t apply ourselves, we didn’t listen to our teachers, and had >to drop out of hairdressing school, I became a dog trainer, and Ritchie >pursued a career in urban sanitation and disposal.

You have that backwards, I think. You obviously became the hairdresser (that’s based on your almost total lack of knowledge pertaining to dogs or dog behavior), and your pictures, and Ritchie probably become the dog trainer. > >Why are you asking me about Marilyn’s information? I’m not her >editor. > Because you keep referring to her as someone here who follows YOUR > advice (HAHA!), when she’s clearly much closer to following >>Koehler’s. >Hardly. I suppose she shows people HOWE to use a choke collar as a >backup for a flat collar.

Yeah, right…that’s why there’s no mention whatsoever of the flat collar, or its use, on her web site. HAHA! But you are right about one thing.  The choke collar is a "backup." It’s a "backup" for when "pure positive" training doesn’t cut it. HAHA! >I know she doesn’t teach anyone to use it to >jerk and choke a dog,

Well, little man, neither does anyone else here. > In other words, little man, she’s as big of a PHONY as you are. >Ask HER, not me.

No one has to ask her anymore, the *proof* is readily available on her own web site. > And obviously a pretty dam good LIAR, too.

At least you taught her how to LIE as well as you do, so I guess you are a kind of "trainer" after all. SPLASH! — Dogman http://www.i1.net/~dogman Mason Morgan Matheson 1536 Kingshighway Rd. St. Charles, MO Visitors welcome.

Response:

[...] – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Better yet, why don’t you call your partner-in-crime, Marilyn > Rammell-Bergeman, that "positive only" bimbo buddy of yours, and ask > her what that dreaded CHOKE collar is doing on *her* web site? > http://www.mrprinters.co.uk/page19.html > or ask her what’s with all this "Leader of the pack" stuff? > http://www.mrprinters.co.uk/page13.html > or ask her what’s with all that "check correctly" talk? > http://www.mrprinters.co.uk/page17.html > Huh? > She’s starting to look and talk like ol’ Bill Koehler himself. > Yeah, why don’t you call Mare? > BWAHAHAHAHAHA! > Splash! > PS: Tell her there’s still a chance for her to have a career in > cosmetology…but only if she hurries.

[...] >Why are you asking me about Marilyn’s information? I’m not her editor.

Because you keep referring to her as someone here who follows YOUR advice (HAHA!), when she’s clearly much closer to following Koehler’s. In other words, little man, she’s as big of a PHONY as you are. And obviously a pretty dam good LIAR, too. :>) — Dogman http://www.i1.net/~dogman Mason Morgan Matheson 1536 Kingshighway Rd. St. Charles, MO Visitors welcome.

Response:

Hello lyingdogDUMMY, – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > [...] >> Better yet, why don’t you call your partner-in-crime, Marilyn >> Rammell-Bergeman, that "positive only" bimbo buddy of yours, and ask >> her what that dreaded CHOKE collar is doing on *her* web site? >> http://www.mrprinters.co.uk/page19.html >> or ask her what’s with all this "Leader of the pack" stuff? >> http://www.mrprinters.co.uk/page13.html >> or ask her what’s with all that "check correctly" talk? >> http://www.mrprinters.co.uk/page17.html >> Huh? >> She’s starting to look and talk like ol’ Bill Koehler himself. >> Yeah, why don’t you call Mare? >> BWAHAHAHAHAHA! >> Splash! >> PS: Tell her there’s still a chance for her to have a career in >> cosmetology…but only if she hurries.

That’s what me and Ritchie were hoping for, but we were young and gay, and didn’t apply ourselves, we didn’t listen to our teachers, and had to drop out of hairdressing school, I became a dog trainer, and Ritchie pursued a career in urban sanitation and disposal. >Why are you asking me about Marilyn’s information? I’m not her

editor. > Because you keep referring to her as someone here who follows YOUR > advice (HAHA!), when she’s clearly much closer to following

Koehler’s. Hardly. I suppose she shows people HOWE to use a choke collar as a backup for a flat collar. I know she doesn’t teach anyone to use it to jerk and choke a dog, like you do, when you’re not beating, shocking, twisting and pinching their ears, toes, and testicles, and HANGING DOGS, to REHABILITATE them from their brutal "training." > In other words, little man, she’s as big of a PHONY as you are.

Ask HER, not me. I wasn’t hired to edit her work. My only job here is teaching people HOWE to train dogs WITHOUT HURTING THEM, and putting vicious, lying, dog abusers like YOU out of business. > And obviously a pretty dam good LIAR, too.

If that’s what you say, Tom. Or is it Joey? You use TWO, REAL, false aliases for posting on the internet. Are you tom soronsen, or joey finnochiarro??? We KNOW you are an anoynmous, lying, dog abusing COWARD. Why should anyone take you seriously? You don’t have the intellect to outwit a puppy dog. YOU ADMIT you can’t stop a dog from eating POO without HURTING HIM, and even that might not work… Go away, we don’t need any more dog abusers here. > Dogman > http://www.i1.net/~dogman > Mason Morgan Matheson > 1536 Kingshighway Rd. > St. Charles, MO > Visitors welcome.

Visitors welcome? You’re forgetting, you’re ANONYMOUS. You are TERRIFIED someone will find you. Or Gang Of Thugs tells everyone to killfile me because they are AFRAID that if people LEARN that HURTING DOGS is NOT NECESSARY, they will no longer have any EXCUSES for HURTING DOGS, and they will have no more ABILITY to train dogs, hence, THEY’RE OUT OF BUSINES… You are an ANONYMOUS, LYING, DOG CHOKING, COWARD… You abuse and degrade everything you come in contact with. You are a misogynist and a homophobe, and you are actively trying to MURDER aids patients by telling them to stop taking dangerous medications and stop supporting the drug companies and the medical establishment who are benefitting off of GOVERNMENT GRANTS to fund research. You convince them they are pawns in a conspiracy. You are convincing them that aids is not a disease, and is not contaigous. You encourage them to practice unprotected sex. You want them queers to spread disease and kill themselves for you. That’s why you took the breeze for a couple of months, YOU COULDN’T STAND IT, that I blew your cover on your homocide scheme. And you’re so sentitive, you’ll do ANYTHING TO SAVE THEM. Just like you HANG DOGS to SAVE THEM FROM THE NEEDLE, after you’ve jerked and choked and intimidated them till they turn on you. THAT’S the only reason a dog wants to attack his trainer. You hang any dog who affronts your AUTHORITY, and you HANG them because you FEAR THEM. By the way, what part of koehler do you like best? I’ve got some QUOTES,  and some ENDORSEMENTS of shooting dogs with BB’s, slingshots, BEATING THEM with belts and sticks, and twisting and pinching their ears and toes to MOTIVATE them. READ IT FOR YOURSELF, and then come back and call me a LIAR if you DARE. I like the part where we get to tie the dog next to a housetraining mistake, and BEAT HIM every twenty minutes for the same mistake. HOWE do you spose the dog understands koehler coming back every twenty minutes to punish him again for the same mistake he’s tied him up next to, to housetrain him??? HOWE MUCH brains does it take to beat a dog every twenty minutes for the same mistake you’ve tied it next to??? But I might like shooting them with a sling shot or BB gun better, you know, to teach the dog to WANT to stay at home

"Nope. That "beating dogs with sticks" things is something you twisted out of context, because you are full of bizarro manure." Koehler on correcting the housebreaking backslider. "If the punishment is not severe enough, some of these "backsliders" will think they’re winning and will continue to mess in the house. An indelible impression can sometimes be made by giving the dog a hard spanking of long duration, then leaving him tied by the mess he’s made so you can come back at twenty minute intervals and punish him again for the same thing. (Dogs are REALLY stupid. J.H.) In most cases, the dog that deliberately does this disagreeable thing cannot be made reliable by the light spanking that some owners seem to think is adequate punishment. It will be better for your dog, as well as the house, if you really pour it on him." Koehler on correcting the Barking Dog Thunder through the door or gate, snatch up the belt that you’ve conveniently placed, and descend on him. He’ll have no chance to dodge if you grab the line and reel him in until his front feet are  raised off the floor or, if he’s a big dog, until you’ve snubbed him up with a hitch on something (ceiling hook, rafters, tree limb, door, or even over your shoulder, if you know HOWE. j.h.) While he’s held in close, lay the strap vigorously against his thighs. Keep pouring it on him until he thinks it’s the bitter end. A real whaling now may cut down somewhat on the number of repeat performances that will be necessary. When you’re finished and the dog is convinced that he is, put him on a long down to think things over while you catch your breath. After fifteen or twenty minutes, release him from the stay and leave the area again." Our professor of behavior Wisc. U., lyingdoc dermer endorses koehler. (He said: "I punish dog’s behavior, NOT the dog." You gonna believe THAT CRAP, PEOPLE??? Ask PROFESSOR DERMER to tell us HOWE the dog understands koehler coming back every twenty minutes to punish him again for the same mistake he’s tied him up next to, to housetrain him??? Go ahead and ASK HIM. The dirty COWARD won’t talk to me about it. He won’t talk to Marilyn about it, and he can’t say SHE’S been INCIVIL WITH HIM. We know HOWE SENSITIVE our koehler trainers are… HOWE does koehler KNOW the dog don’t think he’s coming back to beat him every twenty minutes for the same mistake, just because you’re mad at him, instead of just TRAINING him??? See what I mean? You can’t justify that. Tell us HOWE the dog knows he shouldn’t be barking? That is, until the beatings take effect, after ENOUGH lessons? Tell us  HOWE COME you think dogs might want to take a big chunk out of an abusive Thug who beats him every twenty minutes for crappin on the floor in a room you’ve restricted him to for this purpose, and then tied him next to a forced accident? And when koehler OCCASIONALLY finds a dog who objects to his training, why does he HANG the dog, instead of calm them down and teach them there’s nothing to be afraid of??? That’s the only question ANYONE of you CAN answer. The answer is OBVIOUS. koehler trainers are DOG ABUSING COWARDS "Read koehler for content" Mark Shaw, Sadist, rpdb regular. "I LOVE KOHELER" lyinglynn, pathological liar, noted dog abuser. "There’s much wisdom in koehler," deana pace. (Her dogs run away from home.) "Read koehler," lyingdogDUMMY. (koehler is all he understands.) "Read koehler & cindymorons k-9 web faq’s page," ludwig smith. "Don’t let him do that & read cindymooreon’s web page," boob maida. "I’m not a koehler trainer," cindymoron, lyinglynn, lyingfrosty dahl. But they spout koehler’s methods. They don’t consider themselves koehler trainers because they shock, twist and pinch ears and toes, and BEAT DOGS WITH STICKS to MOTIVATE them. > lyinglynn writes: > For barking in the crate – leave the leash on and > pass it through the crate door.  Attach a line to it. > When he barks, use the line for a correction.

Amy lyingfrosty dahl LIES with a straight face and says: "I don’t beat dogs, twist ears, or pinch toes. For the benefit of anyone who is in doubt, and who chooses not to read the article (SHE’D REALLY LIKE IT IF YOU DON’T READ IT!), there is NO mention in it of "twisting ears (INDEED, SHE PINCHES THEM WITH SPIKES). "Get a stick 30- or 40-inches long. You can have a helper wield the stick, or do it yourself. Tougher, less tractable dogs may require you to progress to striking them more sharply. REPEAT, VARYING HOW HARD YOU HIT THE DOG. I would never slap a dog (SHE TEACHES PEOPLE TO BEAT DOGS WITH STICKS TO MOTIVATE THEM). I would never advise anyone to slap a dog (SHE’S A PROVEN LIAR AND DOG ABUSER, do you expect her to ADMIT THE TRUTH???). I do not believe there is a single circumstance, ever, where slapping a dog is anything but destructive." RIGHT. She PINCHES, not twists… and chin cuff doesn’t mean hit, according to lyinglynn and avrama…. amy lyingfrosty dahl continues: Make the … read more »

Response:

Who is the Jerry Howe person

Question:

He seems to be very disturbed from his posts. He is calling everybody a liar and rambles on about nothing in all his waste of bandwidth posts. Jerry do yourself a favour and get a life.

Response:

I am a lurker who has also noticed all the junk coming from Jerrie How. I wouldn’t worry about him, as he is obviously someone with more time than brains as evidenced by the constant amount of postings from him. Nothing better to do obviously than push his products. As many other people have done, I would advise to ignore anything from Jerrie How – let him waste his time, not yours. > He seems to be very disturbed from his posts. > He is calling everybody a liar and rambles on about nothing in all his waste > of bandwidth posts. > Jerry do yourself a favour and get a life.

Before you buy.

Response:

Cool the number of posts has dwindled since putting the saddo on my KillFile Cheers gp_fan

Response:

Hello billbob,

> He seems to be very disturbed from his posts.

You are a Seer? A Mystic? Perhaps just an ordinary human being who’se been struck by enlightenment? Could it be that you’re just an ordinary rpdb newbie??? At worst, your just and ordinary man who can READ. Any ordinary reader should be able to see I’m VERY disturbed by the commonly accepted methods of abuse taught by our most "respected experts" here. > He is calling everybody a liar

A spad is a spade, and I’ve got PROOF below. READ IT! > and rambles on about nothing in all his waste of bandwidth posts.

NOTHING? You call "expert trainers" BEATING DOGS WITH STICKS, NOTHING??? Ah, ha! You’re just a buffoon who obviously hasn’t read the posts, OR YOU’RE ONE OF THEM!  Otherwise, you’d KNOW the content of those posts are DIRECT QUOTS from our renowned Gang Of Thugs koehler trainers and freestyle DOG ABUSERS! > Jerry do yourself a favour and get a life.

Do yourself a favor, and either READ my posts, or TAKE ISSUE with their CONTENT. Got any criticism of the FACTS as I present them??? Tell us HOWE the dog understands koehler coming back every twenty minutes to punish him again for the same mistake he’s tied him up next to, to housetrain him??? HOWE do koehler KNOWS the dog don’t think he’s coming back to beat him every twenty minutes for the same mistake, just because you’re mad at him, instead of just TRAINING him??? See what I mean, DUMMY? You can’t justify that. Tell us HOWE the dog knows he shouldn’t be barking? That is, until the beatings take effect, after ENOUGH lessons? Tell us  HOWE COME you think dogs might want to take a big chunk out of  an abusive Thug who beats him every twenty minutes for crappin on the floor in a room you’ve restricted him to for this purpose, and then tied him next to a forced accident? And when koehler OCCASIONALLY find a dog who objects to his training, why does he HANG the dog, instead of calm them down and teach them there’s nothing to be afraid of??? That’s the only question  ANYONE of you CAN answer, DUMMY. The answer is OBVIOUS.  koehler trainers are DOG ABUSING COWARDS. When you’re done with the above, maybe you can give some defense for the dog abuse the and lies below FROM OUR Gang Of Thugs members??? Don’t miss the "GOOD KOEHLER TRAINING." Your pal, Jerry. Yours for freedom of information, Jerry "Freedom Of Information Act, Box10210 Pueblo, Colorado," Howe. lyinglynn writes: > For barking in the crate – leave the leash on and > pass it through the crate door.  Attach a line to it. > When he barks, use the line for a correction.

A CORRECTION? You’re going to JERK and CHOKE this new foster dog out of being AFRAID… that’s CORRECTION? lyinlynn says: "I LOVE KOEHLER," and in the next breath denies being a ‘koehler trainer.’ Is that because she ALSO shocks dogs, and koehler never had a shock collar? Pity that he was born too late to benefit from such a wondrous teaching tool, ISN’T it??? Most of our rpdb regulars are devout koehler trainers. Here are koehler’s "solutions" for barking and housetraining, and ENDORSEMENTS of koehler’s methods by our Gang Members. Here’s some good training tips from the same source cindy moore uses.

"Nope. That "beating dogs with sticks" things is something you twisted out of context, because you are full of bizarro manure." Koehler on correcting the Barking Dog Thunder through the door or gate, snatch up the belt that you’ve conveniently placed, and descend on him. He’ll have no chance to dodge if you grab the line and reel him in until his front feet are  raised off the floor or, if he’s a big dog, until you’ve snubbed him up with a hitch on something (ceiling hook, rafters, tree limb, door, or even over your shoulder, if you know HOWE. j.h.) While he’s held in close, lay the strap vigorously against his thighs. Keep pouring it on him until he thinks it’s the bitter end. A real whaling now may cut down somewhat on the number of repeat performances that will be necessary. When you’re finished and the dog is convinced that he is, put him on a long down to think things over while you catch your breath. After fifteen or twenty minutes, release him from the stay and leave the area again." Koehler on correcting the housebreaking backslider. "If the punishment is not severe enough, some of these "backsliders" will think they’re winning and will continue to mess in the house. An indelible impression can sometimes be made by giving the dog a hard spanking of long duration, then leaving him tied by the mess he’s made so you can come back at twenty minute intervals and punish him again for the same thing. (Dogs are REALLY stupid. J.H.) In most cases, the dog that deliberately does this disagreeable thing cannot be made reliable by the light spanking that some owners seem to think is adequate punishment. It will be better for your dog, as well as the house, if you really pour it on him." (MORE good KOEHLER training below, AFTER lyingfrosty dahl) Amy lyingfrosty dahl LIES with a straight face and says: "I don’t beat dogs, twist ears, or pinch toes. For the benefit of anyone who is in doubt, and who chooses not to read the article (SHE’D REALLY LIKE IT IF YOU DON’T READ IT!), there is NO mention in it of "twisting ears (INDEED, SHE PINCHES THEM WITH SPIKES). "Get a stick 30- or 40-inches long. You can have a helper wield the stick, or do it yourself. Tougher, less tractable dogs may require you to progress to striking them more sharply. REPEAT, VARYING HOW HARD YOU HIT THE DOG. I would never slap a dog (SHE TEACHES PEOPLE TO BEAT DOGS WITH STICKS TO MOTIVATE THEM). I would never advise anyone to slap a dog (SHE’S A PROVEN LIAR AND DOG ABUSER, do you expect her to ADMIT THE TRUTH???). I do not believe there is a single circumstance, ever, where slapping a dog is anything but destructive." RIGHT. She PINCHES, not twists… and chin cuff doesn’t mean hit, according to lyinglynn and avrama…. amy lyingfrosty dahl continues: Make the dog’s need to stop the pinching so urgent that resisting your will fades in importance. but will squeal, thrash around, and direct their efforts to escaping the ear pinch even get a studded collar and pinch the ear against that if the dog still does not open its mouth, get out the shotshell. Try pinching the ear between the metal casing and the collar, even the buckle on the collar. Persist! Eventually, the dog will give in" With your hand on the collar and ear, say, ‘fetch.’ Immediately tap the dog on the hindquarters with the stick. Repeat "fetch" and pinch the ear all the way to the dummy. REPEAT, VARYING HOW HARD YOU HIT THE DOG. You can press the dog’s ear with a shotshell instead of your thumb; Say "fetch" while pressing the dummy against its lips and pinching its ear. Gotta LOVE koehler. dahl makes koheler look like St. Francis. Our professor of behavior Wisc. U., lyingdoc dermer endorses koehler. (He said: "I punish dog’s behavior, NOT the dog." You gonna believe THAT CRAP, PEOPLE???) ron likes to use the heavy belt on his dogs "Read for koehler for content" Mark Shaw, Sadist, rpdb regular. "I LOVE KOHELER" lyinglynn, pathological liar, noted dog abuser. "There’s much wisdom in koehler," deana pace. (Her dogs run away from home.) "Read koehler," lyingdogDUMMY. (koehler is all he understands.) "Read koehler, cindymorons k-9 web faq’s page," ludwig smith. "Don’t let him do that, read cindymooreon’s web page," boob maida. "I’m not a koehler trainer," cindymoron, lyinglynn, lyingfrosty dahl. But they spout koehler’s methods. They don’t consider themselves koehler trainers because they shock, twist and pinch ears and toes, and BEAT DOGS WITH STICKS to MOTIVATE them. And now for a little MOORE good koehler training: BARKING, WHINING, HOWLING, YODELING, SCREAMING, AND WAILING We’ll begin with the easiest kind of vocalist to correct: the one that charges gates, fences, doors, and windows, barking furiously at familiar or imaginary people and objects. A few clusters of BBs from a good slingshot, in conjunction with the light line and plenty of temptations, will cause such a dog to use his mind rather than his mouth. But you won’t make the permanent impression unless you supply dozens of opportunities for him to exercise the control he thus acquires. Make sure these opportunities don’t always come at the same time of the day, else he may learn to observe the "quiet hour" and pursue his old routines at other times. With the help of the light line, it will be easy to follow the BBs with a long down to make sure he gets the most from his lesson. As was mentioned before, eliminating the senseless barking will not lessen the dog’s value as a watchdog but rather, as he grows more discriminating, increase it. The dog who vocalizes in bratty protest or lonesomeness because you’re gone constitutes a different problem. If it is impractical for someone to stay with him constantly (there are owners who cater to neurosis by employing dog sitters), you’ll have to heed the neighbors and the law and quiet the dog. This calls for a little ingenuity as well as a heavy hand. Attach a line to your dog’s collar, so your corrective effort doesn’t turn into a footrace around the house until you reach a stalemate under the bed. This use of the line in the correction will also serve to establish it as a reminder to be quiet as the dog drags it around when you’re not present. Next, equip yourself with a man’s leather belt or a strap heavy enough to give your particular dog a good tanning. Yup-we’re going to strike him. Real hard. Remember, you’re dealing with a dog who knows he should be quiet and neighbors who have legal rights to see that he does. Now leave, and let your fading footsteps tell the dog of your going. When you’ve walked to a point where he’ll think you’re gone but where you could hear any noises … read more »

Response:

Hello gp_fan,

> I am a lurker who has also noticed all the junk coming from Jerrie

How. You are an anonymous poster. You’re probable someone mentioned below… > I wouldn’t worry about him,

Depends on HOWE you feel about HURTING DOGS to train them… > as he is obviously someone with more time than brains

HOWE MUCH brains does it take to beat a dog every twenty minutes for the same mistake you’ve tied it next to??? >  as evidenced by the constant amount of postings from him.

The constant posting which are LAUGHED AT by our Gang Of Thugs who are QUOTED teaching us to ABUSE DOGS, and their DENIAL of it??? > Nothing better to do obviously than push his products.

Talk about the CONTENT of my posts. There’s NO MENTION of my Doggy Do Right (and Kitty Will Too) product that is 100% money back, satisfaction guaranteed, FOREVER. > As many other people have done, I would advise to ignore anything from > Jerrie How – let him waste his time, not yours.

Yes, if they don’t read the posts, you and your pals won’t be EXPOSED. > He is calling everybody a liar

A spade is a spade, and I’ve got PROOF below. READ IT! > and rambles on about nothing in all his waste of bandwidth posts.

NOTHING? You call our "expert trainers" BEATING DOGS WITH STICKS, NOTHING??? Ah, ha! You’re just a buffoon who obviously hasn’t read the posts, OR YOU’RE ONE OF THEM!  Otherwise, you’d KNOW the content of those posts are DIRECT QUOTES from our renowned Gang Of Thugs koehler trainers and freestyle DOG ABUSERS! > Jerry do yourself a favour and get a life.

Do yourself a favor, and either READ my posts AND AGREE, or TAKE ISSUE with their CONTENT. Got any criticism of the FACTS as I present them??? Tell us HOWE the dog understands koehler coming back every twenty minutes to punish him again for the same mistake he’s tied him up next to, to housetrain him??? HOWE do koehler KNOWS the dog don’t think he’s coming back to beat him every twenty minutes for the same mistake, just because you’re mad at him, instead of just TRAINING him??? See what I mean, DUMMY? You can’t justify that. Tell us HOWE the dog knows he shouldn’t be barking? That is, until the beatings take effect, after ENOUGH lessons? Tell us  HOWE COME you think dogs might want to take a big chunk out of  an abusive Thug who beats him every twenty minutes for crappin on the floor in a room you’ve restricted him to for this purpose, and then tied him next to a forced accident? And when koehler OCCASIONALLY find a dog who objects to his training, why does he HANG the dog, instead of calm them down and teach them there’s nothing to be afraid of??? That’s the only question  ANYONE of you CAN answer, DUMMY. The answer is OBVIOUS. koehler trainers are DOG ABUSING COWARDS. When you’re done with the above, maybe you can give some defense for the dog abuse the and lies below FROM OUR Gang Of Thugs members??? Don’t miss the "GOOD KOEHLER TRAINING." Your pal, Jerry. Yours for freedom of information, Jerry "Freedom Of Information Act, Box10210 Pueblo, Colorado," Howe. lyinglynn writes: > For barking in the crate – leave the leash on and > pass it through the crate door.  Attach a line to it. > When he barks, use the line for a correction.

A CORRECTION? You’re going to JERK and CHOKE this new foster dog out of being AFRAID… that’s CORRECTION? lyinlynn says: "I LOVE KOEHLER," and in the next breath denies being a ‘koehler trainer.’ Is that because she ALSO shocks dogs, and koehler never had a shock collar? Pity that he was born too late to benefit from such a wondrous teaching tool, ISN’T it??? Most of our rpdb regulars are devout koehler trainers. Here are koehler’s "solutions" for barking and housetraining, and ENDORSEMENTS of koehler’s methods by our Gang Members. Here’s some good training tips from the same source cindy moore uses.

"Nope. That "beating dogs with sticks" things is something you twisted out of context, because you are full of bizarro manure." Koehler on correcting the Barking Dog Thunder through the door or gate, snatch up the belt that you’ve conveniently placed, and descend on him. He’ll have no chance to dodge if you grab the line and reel him in until his front feet are  raised off the floor or, if he’s a big dog, until you’ve snubbed him up with a hitch on something (ceiling hook, rafters, tree limb, door, or even over your shoulder, if you know HOWE. j.h.) While he’s held in close, lay the strap vigorously against his thighs. Keep pouring it on him until he thinks it’s the bitter end. A real whaling now may cut down somewhat on the number of repeat performances that will be necessary. When you’re finished and the dog is convinced that he is, put him on a long down to think things over while you catch your breath. After fifteen or twenty minutes, release him from the stay and leave the area again." Koehler on correcting the housebreaking backslider. "If the punishment is not severe enough, some of these "backsliders" will think they’re winning and will continue to mess in the house. An indelible impression can sometimes be made by giving the dog a hard spanking of long duration, then leaving him tied by the mess he’s made so you can come back at twenty minute intervals and punish him again for the same thing. (Dogs are REALLY stupid. J.H.) In most cases, the dog that deliberately does this disagreeable thing cannot be made reliable by the light spanking that some owners seem to think is adequate punishment. It will be better for your dog, as well as the house, if you really pour it on him." (MORE good KOEHLER training below, AFTER lyingfrosty dahl) Amy lyingfrosty dahl LIES with a straight face and says: "I don’t beat dogs, twist ears, or pinch toes. For the benefit of anyone who is in doubt, and who chooses not to read the article (SHE’D REALLY LIKE IT IF YOU DON’T READ IT!), there is NO mention in it of "twisting ears (INDEED, SHE PINCHES THEM WITH SPIKES). "Get a stick 30- or 40-inches long. You can have a helper wield the stick, or do it yourself. Tougher, less tractable dogs may require you to progress to striking them more sharply. REPEAT, VARYING HOW HARD YOU HIT THE DOG. I would never slap a dog (SHE TEACHES PEOPLE TO BEAT DOGS WITH STICKS TO MOTIVATE THEM). I would never advise anyone to slap a dog (SHE’S A PROVEN LIAR AND DOG ABUSER, do you expect her to ADMIT THE TRUTH???). I do not believe there is a single circumstance, ever, where slapping a dog is anything but destructive." RIGHT. She PINCHES, not twists… and chin cuff doesn’t mean hit, according to lyinglynn and avrama…. amy lyingfrosty dahl continues: Make the dog’s need to stop the pinching so urgent that resisting your will fades in importance. but will squeal, thrash around, and direct their efforts to escaping the ear pinch even get a studded collar and pinch the ear against that if the dog still does not open its mouth, get out the shotshell. Try pinching the ear between the metal casing and the collar, even the buckle on the collar. Persist! Eventually, the dog will give in" With your hand on the collar and ear, say, ‘fetch.’ Immediately tap the dog on the hindquarters with the stick. Repeat "fetch" and pinch the ear all the way to the dummy. REPEAT, VARYING HOW HARD YOU HIT THE DOG. You can press the dog’s ear with a shotshell instead of your thumb; Say "fetch" while pressing the dummy against its lips and pinching its ear. Gotta LOVE koehler. dahl makes koheler look like St. Francis. Our professor of behavior Wisc. U., lyingdoc dermer endorses koehler. (He said: "I punish dog’s behavior, NOT the dog." You gonna believe THAT CRAP, PEOPLE???) ron likes to use the heavy belt on his dogs "Read for koehler for content" Mark Shaw, Sadist, rpdb regular. "I LOVE KOHELER" lyinglynn, pathological liar, noted dog abuser. "There’s much wisdom in koehler," deana pace. (Her dogs run away from home.) "Read koehler," lyingdogDUMMY. (koehler is all he understands.) "Read koehler, cindymorons k-9 web faq’s page," ludwig smith. "Don’t let him do that, read cindymooreon’s web page," boob maida. "I’m not a koehler trainer," cindymoron, lyinglynn, lyingfrosty dahl. But they spout koehler’s methods. They don’t consider themselves koehler trainers because they shock, twist and pinch ears and toes, and BEAT DOGS WITH STICKS to MOTIVATE them. And now for a little MOORE good koehler training: BARKING, WHINING, HOWLING, YODELING, SCREAMING, AND WAILING We’ll begin with the easiest kind of vocalist to correct: the one that charges gates, fences, doors, and windows, barking furiously at familiar or imaginary people and objects. A few clusters of BBs from a good slingshot, in conjunction with the light line and plenty of temptations, will cause such a dog to use his mind rather than his mouth. But you won’t make the permanent impression unless you supply dozens of opportunities for him to exercise the control he thus acquires. Make sure these opportunities don’t always come at the same time of the day, else he may learn to observe the "quiet hour" and pursue his old routines at other times. With the help of the light line, it will be easy to follow the BBs with a long down to make sure he gets the most from his lesson. As was mentioned before, eliminating the senseless barking will not lessen the dog’s value as a watchdog but rather, as he grows more discriminating, increase it. The dog who vocalizes in bratty protest or lonesomeness because you’re gone constitutes a different problem. If it is impractical for someone to stay with him constantly (there are owners who cater to neurosis by employing dog sitters), you’ll have to heed the neighbors and the law and quiet the dog. This calls for a little ingenuity as well as a heavy hand. Attach a line to your dog’s collar, so your corrective effort doesn’t turn into a footrace around the house until you reach a … read more »

Response:

> At worst, your just and ordinary man who can READ. Any ordinary reader > should be able to see I’m VERY disturbed by the commonly accepted > methods of abuse taught by our most "respected experts" here.

The most abusive method being the SPIKE & SQUIRT, it can kill a dog. Before you buy.

Response:

> I am a lurker who has also noticed all the junk coming from Jerrie >Howe. > I wouldn’t worry about him, as he is obviously someone with more time > than brains as evidenced by the constant amount of postings from him. > Nothing better to do obviously than push his products. > As many other people have done, I would advise to ignore anything from > Jerrie How – let him waste his time, not yours.

  I agree, I sometimes post to this board, and Jerrys posts always seem long winded and off topic. Sometimes I can’t figure out what he is trying to say. Rob H Before you buy.

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I am a lurker who has also noticed all the junk coming from Jerrie >Howe. > I wouldn’t worry about him, as he is obviously someone with more time > than brains as evidenced by the constant amount of postings from him. > Nothing better to do obviously than push his products. > As many other people have done, I would advise to ignore anything from > Jerrie How – let him waste his time, not yours. >   I agree, I sometimes post to this board, and Jerrys posts always seem > long winded and off topic. Sometimes I can’t figure out what he is > trying to say. > Rob H

Hello Rob, My posts are so long because there is so MUCH material that is pertinent to dog behavior and our dog abusers and liars here… Try reading this SHORT ONE, and let me know EXACTLY what you think: HOWE MUCH brains does it take to beat a dog every twenty minutes for the same mistake you’ve tied it next to??? Do yourself a favor, and either READ my posts AND AGREE, or TAKE ISSUE with their CONTENT. Got any criticism of the FACTS as I present them??? Tell us HOWE the dog understands koehler coming back every twenty minutes to punish him again for the same mistake he’s tied him up next to, to housetrain him??? HOWE do koehler KNOWS the dog don’t think he’s coming back to beat him every twenty minutes for the same mistake, just because you’re mad at him, instead of just TRAINING him??? Tell us HOWE the dog knows he shouldn’t be barking? That is, until the beatings take effect, after ENOUGH lessons? Tell us  HOWE COME you think dogs might want to take a big chunk out of  an abusive Thug who beats him every twenty minutes for crappin on the floor in a room you’ve restricted him to for this purpose, and then tied him next to a forced accident? And when koehler OCCASIONALLY find a dog who objects to his training, why does he HANG the dog, instead of calm them down and teach them there’s nothing to be afraid of??? That’s the only question  ANYONE of you CAN answer. The answer is OBVIOUS. koehler trainers are DOG ABUSING COWARDS. When you’re done with the above, maybe you can give some defense for the dog abuse the and lies below, FROM OUR Gang Of Thugs members??? Don’t miss the "GOOD KOEHLER TRAINING" below. Yours for freedom of information, Jerry "Freedom Of Information Act, Box10210 Pueblo, Colorado," Howe. Most of our rpdb regulars are devout koehler trainers. Here are koehler’s "solutions" for barking and housetraining, and ENDORSEMENTS of koehler’s methods by our Gang Members. Here’s some good training tips from the same source cindy moore uses.

"Nope. That "beating dogs with sticks" things is something you twisted out of context, because you are full of bizarro manure." Koehler on correcting the Barking Dog Thunder through the door or gate, snatch up the belt that you’ve conveniently placed, and descend on him. He’ll have no chance to dodge if you grab the line and reel him in until his front feet are  raised off the floor or, if he’s a big dog, until you’ve snubbed him up with a hitch on something (ceiling hook, rafters, tree limb, door, or even over your shoulder, if you know HOWE. j.h.) While he’s held in close, lay the strap vigorously against his thighs. Keep pouring it on him until he thinks it’s the bitter end. A real whaling now may cut down somewhat on the number of repeat performances that will be necessary. When you’re finished and the dog is convinced that he is, put him on a long down to think things over while you catch your breath. After fifteen or twenty minutes, release him from the stay and leave the area again." Koehler on correcting the housebreaking backslider. "If the punishment is not severe enough, some of these "backsliders" will think they’re winning and will continue to mess in the house. An indelible impression can sometimes be made by giving the dog a hard spanking of long duration, then leaving him tied by the mess he’s made so you can come back at twenty minute intervals and punish him again for the same thing. (Dogs are REALLY stupid. J.H.) In most cases, the dog that deliberately does this disagreeable thing cannot be made reliable by the light spanking that some owners seem to think is adequate punishment. It will be better for your dog, as well as the house, if you really pour it on him." lyinglynn writes: > For barking in the crate – leave the leash on and > pass it through the crate door.  Attach a line to it. > When he barks, use the line for a correction.

A CORRECTION? You’re going to JERK and CHOKE this new foster dog out of being AFRAID… that’s CORRECTION? lyinlynn says: "I LOVE KOEHLER," and in the next breath denies being a ‘koehler trainer.’ Is that because she ALSO shocks dogs, and koehler never had a shock collar? Pity that he was born too late to benefit from such a wondrous teaching tool, ISN’T it??? (MORE good KOEHLER training below, AFTER lyingfrosty dahl) Amy lyingfrosty dahl LIES with a straight face and says: "I don’t beat dogs, twist ears, or pinch toes. For the benefit of anyone who is in doubt, and who chooses not to read the article (SHE’D REALLY LIKE IT IF YOU DON’T READ IT!), there is NO mention in it of "twisting ears (INDEED, SHE PINCHES THEM WITH SPIKES). "Get a stick 30- or 40-inches long. You can have a helper wield the stick, or do it yourself. Tougher, less tractable dogs may require you to progress to striking them more sharply. REPEAT, VARYING HOW HARD YOU HIT THE DOG. I would never slap a dog (SHE TEACHES PEOPLE TO BEAT DOGS WITH STICKS TO MOTIVATE THEM). I would never advise anyone to slap a dog (SHE’S A PROVEN LIAR AND DOG ABUSER, do you expect her to ADMIT THE TRUTH???). I do not believe there is a single circumstance, ever, where slapping a dog is anything but destructive." RIGHT. She PINCHES, not twists… and chin cuff doesn’t mean hit, according to lyinglynn and avrama…. amy lyingfrosty dahl continues: Make the dog’s need to stop the pinching so urgent that resisting your will fades in importance. but will squeal, thrash around, and direct their efforts to escaping the ear pinch even get a studded collar and pinch the ear against that if the dog still does not open its mouth, get out the shotshell. Try pinching the ear between the metal casing and the collar, even the buckle on the collar. Persist! Eventually, the dog will give in" With your hand on the collar and ear, say, ‘fetch.’ Immediately tap the dog on the hindquarters with the stick. Repeat "fetch" and pinch the ear all the way to the dummy. REPEAT, VARYING HOW HARD YOU HIT THE DOG. You can press the dog’s ear with a shotshell instead of your thumb; Say "fetch" while pressing the dummy against its lips and pinching its ear. Gotta LOVE koehler. dahl makes koheler look like St. Francis. Our professor of behavior Wisc. U., lyingdoc dermer endorses koehler. (He said: "I punish dog’s behavior, NOT the dog." You gonna believe THAT CRAP, PEOPLE???) ron likes to use the heavy belt on his dogs "Read for koehler for content" Mark Shaw, Sadist, rpdb regular. "I LOVE KOHELER" lyinglynn, pathological liar, noted dog abuser. "There’s much wisdom in koehler," deana pace. (Her dogs run away from home.) "Read koehler," lyingdogDUMMY. (koehler is all he understands.) "Read koehler, cindymorons k-9 web faq’s page," ludwig smith. "Don’t let him do that, read cindymooreon’s web page," boob maida. "I’m not a koehler trainer," cindymoron, lyinglynn, lyingfrosty dahl. But they spout koehler’s methods. They don’t consider themselves koehler trainers because they shock, twist and pinch ears and toes, and BEAT DOGS WITH STICKS to MOTIVATE them. And now for a little MOORE good koehler training: BARKING, WHINING, HOWLING, YODELING, SCREAMING, AND WAILING We’ll begin with the easiest kind of vocalist to correct: the one that charges gates, fences, doors, and windows, barking furiously at familiar or imaginary people and objects. A few clusters of BBs from a good slingshot, in conjunction with the light line and plenty of temptations, will cause such a dog to use his mind rather than his mouth. But you won’t make the permanent impression unless you supply dozens of opportunities for him to exercise the control he thus acquires. Make sure these opportunities don’t always come at the same time of the day, else he may learn to observe the "quiet hour" and pursue his old routines at other times. With the help of the light line, it will be easy to follow the BBs with a long down to make sure he gets the most from his lesson. As was mentioned before, eliminating the senseless barking will not lessen the dog’s value as a watchdog but rather, as he grows more discriminating, increase it. The dog who vocalizes in bratty protest or lonesomeness because you’re gone constitutes a different problem. If it is impractical for someone to stay with him constantly (there are owners who cater to neurosis by employing dog sitters), you’ll have to heed the neighbors and the law and quiet the dog. This calls for a little ingenuity as well as a heavy hand. Attach a line to your dog’s collar, so your corrective effort doesn’t turn into a footrace around the house until you reach a stalemate under the bed. This use of the line in the correction will also serve to establish it as a reminder to be quiet as the dog drags it around when you’re not present. Next, equip yourself with a man’s leather belt or a strap heavy enough to give your particular dog a good tanning. Yup-we’re going to strike him. Real hard. Remember, you’re dealing with a dog who knows he should be quiet and neighbors who have legal rights to see that he does. Now leave, and let your fading footsteps tell the dog of your going. When you’ve walked to a point where he’ll think you’re gone but where you could hear any noises he might … read more »

Response:

> He seems to be very disturbed from his posts.

Yes. He apparently has been/is hospitalized (we’re not sure of his current status; he’s probably not, either). > He is calling everybody a liar and rambles on about nothing in all his > waste of bandwidth posts.

Well, his head is made entirely of baloney. I think you’ll agree this accounts for much of his behavior. > Jerry do yourself a favour and get a life.

Sadly, this is all the life he has. Look at it this way: The more time he spends raving here, the less likely that he is actually interacting with any dogs. Which is a good thing. This can be made painless for the reader by employing a kill file. A win-win situation! No one has to read what he writes, and no dogs are subjected to his training, particularly his abusive protection training methods! Yay! –Terri & Harlan (Hurrah!) — What Would Robot Frank Do? Before you buy.

Response:

>   I agree, I sometimes post to this board, and Jerrys posts always > seem long winded and off topic. Sometimes I can’t figure out what he > is trying to say.

Here, I can help you out. What Jerry is trying to say is: "Hi. My head is made entirely of baloney. I had Jello today." HTH! –Terri & Harlan (Universal Translator provided by HarCo Industries) — What Would Robot Frank Do? Before you buy.

Response:

Hello psychoclown, > He seems to be very disturbed from his posts. > Yes. He apparently has been/is hospitalized (we’re not sure of his > current status; he’s probably not, either).

My doctor said I could go home any time I felt ready to deal with dog abusers in real life. He said I’m doing well, and that the psychosis was only temporary, a side effect of seeing such incredulous abuse as you and your pals ENJOY putting to your dogs. > He is calling everybody a liar and rambles on about nothing in all his > waste of bandwidth posts.

I’ve got it all in their own words. Just read down the page, it’s ALL THEIR OWN TEXT. > Well, his head is made entirely of baloney.

It’s SOY! So much for a psycho clown. > I think you’ll agree this > accounts for much of his behavior.

Lets talk about BEATING DOGS WITH STICKS TO MOTIVATE THEM? > Jerry do yourself a favour and get a life. > Sadly, this is all the life he has.

Only till you bums get the idea that the more you post, the worse you’re gonig to look. > Look at it this way: The more time he spends raving here, the less > likely that he is actually interacting with any dogs. Which is a good > thing.

I have many grateful posters writing me thanking me for helping them learn NOT to hurt their dogs to train them anymore. Got one last nite from Italy. Lady adopted three greyhounds off the track, and needed to learn HOWE to control them without slapping them around as she’d learned in dog training school. She LOVED the Wits’ End Dog Training Method manual available for free at http://www.doggydoright.com . > This can be made painless for the reader by employing a kill file.

Yes, you bums are all screaming DON’T BELIEVE JERRY, KILLFILE HIM. Why do you suppose you would be AFRAID of my LIES? I’ll post them below for you. > A win-win situation!

Yes. INDEED. They’ll find out you’ve been FIBBING. > No one has to read what he writes, and no dogs are > subjected to his training,

Youre LYING AGAIN. > particularly his abusive protection training methods! Yay!

QUOTE THE TEXT, PLEASE??? > –Terri & Harlan (Hurrah!)

HOWE MUCH brains does it take to beat a dog every twenty minutes for the same mistake you’ve tied it next to??? Got any criticism of the FACTS as I present them???

"Nope. That "beating dogs with sticks" things is something you twisted out of context, because you are full of bizarro manure." Tell us HOWE the dog understands koehler coming back every twenty minutes to punish him again for the same mistake he’s tied him up next to, to housetrain him??? HOWE do koehler KNOWS the dog don’t think he’s coming back to beat him every twenty minutes for the same mistake, just because you’re mad at him, instead of just TRAINING him??? See what I mean, DUMMY? You can’t justify that. Tell us HOWE the dog knows he shouldn’t be barking? That is, until the beatings take effect, after ENOUGH lessons? Tell us  HOWE COME you think dogs might want to take a big chunk out of  an abusive Thug who beats him every twenty minutes for crappin on the floor in a room you’ve restricted him to for this purpose, and then tied him next to a forced accident? And when koehler OCCASIONALLY find a dog who objects to his training, why does he HANG the dog, instead of calm them down and teach them there’s nothing to be afraid of??? That’s the only question  ANYONE of you CAN answer, DUMMY. The answer is OBVIOUS. koehler trainers are DOG ABUSING COWARDS. When you’re done with the above, maybe you can give some defense for the dog abuse the and lies below FROM OUR Gang Of Thugs members??? Don’t miss the "GOOD KOEHLER TRAINING" after our rpdb abusers. Yours for freedom of information, Jerry "Freedom Of Information Act, Box10210 Pueblo, Colorado," Howe. Most of our rpdb regulars are devout koehler trainers. Here are koehler’s "solutions" for barking and housetraining, and ENDORSEMENTS of koehler’s methods by our Gang Members. Here’s some good training tips from the same source cindy moore uses. Koehler on correcting the Barking Dog Thunder through the door or gate, snatch up the belt that you’ve conveniently placed, and descend on him. He’ll have no chance to dodge if you grab the line and reel him in until his front feet are  raised off the floor or, if he’s a big dog, until you’ve snubbed him up with a hitch on something (ceiling hook, rafters, tree limb, door, or even over your shoulder, if you know HOWE. j.h.) While he’s held in close, lay the strap vigorously against his thighs. Keep pouring it on him until he thinks it’s the bitter end. A real whaling now may cut down somewhat on the number of repeat performances that will be necessary. When you’re finished and the dog is convinced that he is, put him on a long down to think things over while you catch your breath. After fifteen or twenty minutes, release him from the stay and leave the area again." Koehler on correcting the housebreaking backslider. "If the punishment is not severe enough, some of these "backsliders" will think they’re winning and will continue to mess in the house. An indelible impression can sometimes be made by giving the dog a hard spanking of long duration, then leaving him tied by the mess he’s made so you can come back at twenty minute intervals and punish him again for the same thing. (Dogs are REALLY stupid. J.H.) In most cases, the dog that deliberately does this disagreeable thing cannot be made reliable by the light spanking that some owners seem to think is adequate punishment. It will be better for your dog, as well as the house, if you really pour it on him." lyinglynn writes: > For barking in the crate – leave the leash on and > pass it through the crate door.  Attach a line to it. > When he barks, use the line for a correction.

A CORRECTION? You’re going to JERK and CHOKE this new foster dog out of being AFRAID… that’s CORRECTION? lyinlynn says: "I LOVE KOEHLER," and in the next breath denies being a ‘koehler trainer.’ Is that because she ALSO shocks dogs, and koehler never had a shock collar? Pity that he was born too late to benefit from such a wondrous teaching tool, ISN’T it??? (MORE good KOEHLER training below, AFTER lyingfrosty dahl) Amy lyingfrosty dahl LIES with a straight face and says: "I don’t beat dogs, twist ears, or pinch toes. For the benefit of anyone who is in doubt, and who chooses not to read the article (SHE’D REALLY LIKE IT IF YOU DON’T READ IT!), there is NO mention in it of "twisting ears (INDEED, SHE PINCHES THEM WITH SPIKES). "Get a stick 30- or 40-inches long. You can have a helper wield the stick, or do it yourself. Tougher, less tractable dogs may require you to progress to striking them more sharply. REPEAT, VARYING HOW HARD YOU HIT THE DOG. I would never slap a dog (SHE TEACHES PEOPLE TO BEAT DOGS WITH STICKS TO MOTIVATE THEM). I would never advise anyone to slap a dog (SHE’S A PROVEN LIAR AND DOG ABUSER, do you expect her to ADMIT THE TRUTH???). I do not believe there is a single circumstance, ever, where slapping a dog is anything but destructive." RIGHT. She PINCHES, not twists… and chin cuff doesn’t mean hit, according to lyinglynn and avrama…. amy lyingfrosty dahl continues: Make the dog’s need to stop the pinching so urgent that resisting your will fades in importance. but will squeal, thrash around, and direct their efforts to escaping the ear pinch even get a studded collar and pinch the ear against that if the dog still does not open its mouth, get out the shotshell. Try pinching the ear between the metal casing and the collar, even the buckle on the collar. Persist! Eventually, the dog will give in" With your hand on the collar and ear, say, ‘fetch.’ Immediately tap the dog on the hindquarters with the stick. Repeat "fetch" and pinch the ear all the way to the dummy. REPEAT, VARYING HOW HARD YOU HIT THE DOG. You can press the dog’s ear with a shotshell instead of your thumb; Say "fetch" while pressing the dummy against its lips and pinching its ear. Gotta LOVE koehler. dahl makes koheler look like St. Francis. Our professor of behavior Wisc. U., lyingdoc dermer endorses koehler. (He said: "I punish dog’s behavior, NOT the dog." You gonna believe THAT CRAP, PEOPLE???) ron likes to use the heavy belt on his dogs "Read for koehler for content" Mark Shaw, Sadist, rpdb regular. "I LOVE KOHELER" lyinglynn, pathological liar, noted dog abuser. "There’s much wisdom in koehler," deana pace. (Her dogs run away from home.) "Read koehler," lyingdogDUMMY. (koehler is all he understands.) "Read koehler, cindymorons k-9 web faq’s page," ludwig smith. "Don’t let him do that, read cindymooreon’s web page," boob maida. "I’m not a koehler trainer," cindymoron, lyinglynn, lyingfrosty dahl. But they spout koehler’s methods. They don’t consider themselves koehler trainers because they shock, twist and pinch ears and toes, and BEAT DOGS WITH STICKS to MOTIVATE them. And now for a little MOORE good koehler training: BARKING, WHINING, HOWLING, YODELING, SCREAMING, AND WAILING We’ll begin with the easiest kind of vocalist to correct: the one that charges gates, fences, doors, and windows, barking furiously at familiar or imaginary people and objects. A few clusters of BBs from a good slingshot, in conjunction with the light line and plenty of temptations, will cause such a dog to use his mind rather than his mouth. But you won’t make the permanent impression unless you supply dozens of opportunities for him to exercise the control he thus acquires. Make sure these opportunities don’t always come at the same time of the day, else he may learn to observe the "quiet hour" and pursue his old routines at other times. With the help of the light line, it will be easy to follow the BBs with a long … read more »

Response:

> >   I agree, I sometimes post to this board, and Jerrys posts always > seem long winded and off topic. Sometimes I can’t figure out what he > is trying to say. > Here, I can help you out. What Jerry is trying to say is: > "Hi. My head is made entirely of baloney. I had Jello today." > HTH! > –Terri & Harlan (Universal Translator provided by HarCo Industries)

Tell us again that the ‘BEATING DOGS WITH STICKS THING ARE LIES I MADE UP.’ Got any criticism of the FACTS as I present them???

"Nope. That "beating dogs with sticks" things is something you twisted out of context, because you are full of bizarro manure." Tell us HOWE the dog understands koehler coming back every twenty minutes to BEAT THE DOG AGAIN for the same mistake he’s tied him up next to, to housetrain him??? HOWE do koehler KNOWS the dog don’t think he’s coming back to beat him every twenty minutes for the same mistake, just because you’re mad at him, instead of just TRAINING him??? See what I mean, DUMMY? You can’t justify that. Tell us HOWE the dog knows he shouldn’t be barking? That is, until the beatings take effect, after ENOUGH lessons? Tell us  HOWE COME you think dogs might want to take a big chunk out of  an abusive Thug who beats him every twenty minutes for crappin on the floor in a room you’ve restricted him to for this purpose, and then tied him next to a forced accident? And when koehler OCCASIONALLY find a dog who objects to his training, why does he HANG the dog, instead of calm them down and teach them there’s nothing to be afraid of??? That’s the only question  ANYONE of you CAN answer, DUMMY. The answer is OBVIOUS. koehler trainers are DOG ABUSING COWARDS. When you’re done with the above, maybe you can give some defense for the dog abuse the and lies below FROM OUR Gang Of Thugs members??? Don’t miss the "GOOD KOEHLER TRAINING" after our rpdb abusers. Yours for freedom of information, Jerry "Freedom Of Information Act, Box10210 Pueblo, Colorado," Howe. Most of our rpdb regulars are devout koehler trainers. Here are koehler’s "solutions" for barking and housetraining, and ENDORSEMENTS of koehler’s methods by our Gang Members. Here’s some good training tips from the same source cindy moore uses. Koehler on correcting the Barking Dog Thunder through the door or gate, snatch up the belt that you’ve conveniently placed, and descend on him. He’ll have no chance to dodge if you grab the line and reel him in until his front feet are  raised off the floor or, if he’s a big dog, until you’ve snubbed him up with a hitch on something (ceiling hook, rafters, tree limb, door, or even over your shoulder, if you know HOWE. j.h.) While he’s held in close, lay the strap vigorously against his thighs. Keep pouring it on him until he thinks it’s the bitter end. A real whaling now may cut down somewhat on the number of repeat performances that will be necessary. When you’re finished and the dog is convinced that he is, put him on a long down to think things over while you catch your breath. After fifteen or twenty minutes, release him from the stay and leave the area again." Koehler on correcting the housebreaking backslider. "If the punishment is not severe enough, some of these "backsliders" will think they’re winning and will continue to mess in the house. An indelible impression can sometimes be made by giving the dog a hard spanking of long duration, then leaving him tied by the mess he’s made so you can come back at twenty minute intervals and punish him again for the same thing. (Dogs are REALLY stupid. J.H.) In most cases, the dog that deliberately does this disagreeable thing cannot be made reliable by the light spanking that some owners seem to think is adequate punishment. It will be better for your dog, as well as the house, if you really pour it on him." lyinglynn writes: > For barking in the crate – leave the leash on and > pass it through the crate door.  Attach a line to it. > When he barks, use the line for a correction.

A CORRECTION? You’re going to JERK and CHOKE this new foster dog out of being AFRAID… that’s CORRECTION? lyinlynn says: "I LOVE KOEHLER," and in the next breath denies being a ‘koehler trainer.’ Is that because she ALSO shocks dogs, and koehler never had a shock collar? Pity that he was born too late to benefit from such a wondrous teaching tool, ISN’T it??? (MORE good KOEHLER training below, AFTER lyingfrosty dahl) Amy lyingfrosty dahl LIES with a straight face and says: "I don’t beat dogs, twist ears, or pinch toes. For the benefit of anyone who is in doubt, and who chooses not to read the article (SHE’D REALLY LIKE IT IF YOU DON’T READ IT!), there is NO mention in it of "twisting ears (INDEED, SHE PINCHES THEM WITH SPIKES). "Get a stick 30- or 40-inches long. You can have a helper wield the stick, or do it yourself. Tougher, less tractable dogs may require you to progress to striking them more sharply. REPEAT, VARYING HOW HARD YOU HIT THE DOG. I would never slap a dog (SHE TEACHES PEOPLE TO BEAT DOGS WITH STICKS TO MOTIVATE THEM). I would never advise anyone to slap a dog (SHE’S A PROVEN LIAR AND DOG ABUSER, do you expect her to ADMIT THE TRUTH???). I do not believe there is a single circumstance, ever, where slapping a dog is anything but destructive." RIGHT. She PINCHES, not twists… and chin cuff doesn’t mean hit, according to lyinglynn and avrama…. amy lyingfrosty dahl continues: Make the dog’s need to stop the pinching so urgent that resisting your will fades in importance. but will squeal, thrash around, and direct their efforts to escaping the ear pinch even get a studded collar and pinch the ear against that if the dog still does not open its mouth, get out the shotshell. Try pinching the ear between the metal casing and the collar, even the buckle on the collar. Persist! Eventually, the dog will give in" With your hand on the collar and ear, say, ‘fetch.’ Immediately tap the dog on the hindquarters with the stick. Repeat "fetch" and pinch the ear all the way to the dummy. REPEAT, VARYING HOW HARD YOU HIT THE DOG. You can press the dog’s ear with a shotshell instead of your thumb; Say "fetch" while pressing the dummy against its lips and pinching its ear. Gotta LOVE koehler. dahl makes koheler look like St. Francis. Our professor of behavior Wisc. U., lyingdoc dermer endorses koehler. (He said: "I punish dog’s behavior, NOT the dog." You gonna believe THAT CRAP, PEOPLE???) ron likes to use the heavy belt on his dogs "Read for koehler for content" Mark Shaw, Sadist, rpdb regular. "I LOVE KOHELER" lyinglynn, pathological liar, noted dog abuser. "There’s much wisdom in koehler," deana pace. (Her dogs run away from home.) "Read koehler," lyingdogDUMMY. (koehler is all he understands.) "Read koehler, cindymorons k-9 web faq’s page," ludwig smith. "Don’t let him do that, read cindymooreon’s web page," boob maida. "I’m not a koehler trainer," cindymoron, lyinglynn, lyingfrosty dahl. But they spout koehler’s methods. They don’t consider themselves koehler trainers because they shock, twist and pinch ears and toes, and BEAT DOGS WITH STICKS to MOTIVATE them. And now for a little MOORE good koehler training: BARKING, WHINING, HOWLING, YODELING, SCREAMING, AND WAILING We’ll begin with the easiest kind of vocalist to correct: the one that charges gates, fences, doors, and windows, barking furiously at familiar or imaginary people and objects. A few clusters of BBs from a good slingshot, in conjunction with the light line and plenty of temptations, will cause such a dog to use his mind rather than his mouth. But you won’t make the permanent impression unless you supply dozens of opportunities for him to exercise the control he thus acquires. Make sure these opportunities don’t always come at the same time of the day, else he may learn to observe the "quiet hour" and pursue his old routines at other times. With the help of the light line, it will be easy to follow the BBs with a long down to make sure he gets the most from his lesson. As was mentioned before, eliminating the senseless barking will not lessen the dog’s value as a watchdog but rather, as he grows more discriminating, increase it. The dog who vocalizes in bratty protest or lonesomeness because you’re gone constitutes a different problem. If it is impractical for someone to stay with him constantly (there are owners who cater to neurosis by employing dog sitters), you’ll have to heed the neighbors and the law and quiet the dog. This calls for a little ingenuity as well as a heavy hand. Attach a line to your dog’s collar, so your corrective effort doesn’t turn into a footrace around the house until you reach a stalemate under the bed. This use of the line in the correction will also serve to establish it as a reminder to be quiet as the dog drags it around when you’re not present. Next, equip yourself with a man’s leather belt or a strap heavy enough to give your particular dog a good tanning. Yup-we’re going to strike him. Real hard. Remember, you’re dealing with a dog who knows he should be quiet and neighbors who have legal rights to see that he does. Now leave, and let your fading footsteps tell the dog of your going. When you’ve walked to a point where he’ll think you’re gone but where you could hear any noises he might make, stop and listen. If you find a comfortable waiting place on a nearby porch, be careful not to talk or laugh. Tests show a dog’s hearing to be many times as sharp as yours. When the noise comes, instead of trying to sneak up to the door so you can barge in while he’s still barking, which is generally impossible, respond to his first sound with an emphatic bellow of "out," and keep on bellowing as you charge back to his area. Thunder … read more »

Response:

errr…  ummm… never thought about it like that. Now I’m kinda glad Jerry is here (even more so in my killfile). Joshua – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> He seems to be very disturbed from his posts. > Yes. He apparently has been/is hospitalized (we’re not sure of his > current status; he’s probably not, either). > He is calling everybody a liar and rambles on about nothing in all his > waste of bandwidth posts. > Well, his head is made entirely of baloney. I think you’ll agree this > accounts for much of his behavior. > Jerry do yourself a favour and get a life. > Sadly, this is all the life he has. > Look at it this way: The more time he spends raving here, the less > likely that he is actually interacting with any dogs. Which is a good > thing. > This can be made painless for the reader by employing a kill file. A > win-win situation! No one has to read what he writes, and no dogs are > subjected to his training, particularly his abusive protection training > methods! Yay! > –Terri & Harlan (Hurrah!) > — > What Would Robot Frank Do? > Before you buy.

Response:

> My doctor said I could go home any time I felt ready to deal with dog > abusers in real life. He said I’m doing well, and that the psychosis > was only temporary

See that, who said a shock collar wouldn’t work, just hope your temperature didn’t SPIKE too much and cause you to shit all over yourself. Before you buy.

Response:

He is very disturbed, of course. Just ignore him.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> He seems to be very disturbed from his posts. > He is calling everybody a liar and rambles on about nothing in all his waste > of bandwidth posts. > Jerry do yourself a favour and get a life.

Response:

> errr…  ummm… never thought about it like that. > Now I’m kinda glad Jerry is here (even more so in my killfile). > Joshua

Well, I always try to look on the bright side of things. That’s why so many in this newsgroup think of me as a little ray of sunshine. –Terri & Harlan — What Would Robot Frank Do? Before you buy.

Response:

Yes. Just ignore me. It ain’t gonna happen. I’ve blown the cover on all our Gang Of Thugs dog abusers. Jerry.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> He is very disturbed, of course. Just ignore him. > He seems to be very disturbed from his posts. > He is calling everybody a liar and rambles on about nothing in all his > waste > of bandwidth posts. > Jerry do yourself a favour and get a life.

Response:

> I’ve blown all our Gang Of Thugs. Jerry.

Before you buy.

Response:

>> I’ve blown all our Gang Of Thugs. Jerry.

Hey, he missed me, too, Blackdogs! Damn! Is there a line forming somewhere? Inquiring minds want to know! :>) — Dogman http://www.i1.net/~dogman George Aloysius Spangenberg 286 Highway C St. Peters, MO Visitors welcome.

Response:

Just go the back of the Conga line, and boogaloo on outta here with the rest of your dog abusing friends. Jerry. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->> I’ve blown all our Gang Of Thugs. Jerry. > Hey, he missed me, too, Blackdogs! > Damn! > Is there a line forming somewhere? > Inquiring minds want to know! > :>) > — > Dogman > http://www.i1.net/~dogman > George Aloysius Spangenberg > 286 Highway C > St. Peters, MO > Visitors welcome.

Response:

>Just go the back of the Conga line, and boogaloo on outta here with the >rest of your dog abusing friends. Jerry.

Yeah…make me, little man. PS:  Where does the line form now? I have a bunch of friends that you also must have missed on your first blow-around. :>) > >> I’ve blown all our Gang Of Thugs. Jerry. > Hey, he missed me, too, Blackdogs! > Damn! > Is there a line forming somewhere? > Inquiring minds want to know!

[...] — Dogman http://www.i1.net/~dogman Vernon Hannibal Barnhart #20 Briar Patch Rd. Defiance, MO Visitors welcome.

Response:

> Just go the back of the Conga line

Wow you got a big line waiting for you, your knees must be sore. Before you buy.

Response:

> > errr…  ummm… never thought about it like that. > Now I’m kinda glad Jerry is here (even more so in my killfile). > Joshua > Well, I always try to look on the bright side of things. That’s why so > many in this newsgroup think of me as a little ray of sunshine. > –Terri & Harlan

"Nope. That "beating dogs with sticks" things is something you twisted out of context, because you are full of bizarro manure." Koehler on correcting the Barking Dog Thunder through the door or gate, snatch up the belt that you’ve conveniently placed, and descend on him. He’ll have no chance to dodge if you grab the line and reel him in until his front feet are  raised off the floor or, if he’s a big dog, until you’ve snubbed him up with a hitch on something (ceiling hook, rafters, tree limb, door, or even over your shoulder, if you know HOWE. j.h.) While he’s held in close, lay the strap vigorously against his thighs. Keep pouring it on him until he thinks it’s the bitter end. A real whaling now may cut down somewhat on the number of repeat performances that will be necessary. When you’re finished and the dog is convinced that he is, put him on a long down to think things over while you catch your breath. After fifteen or twenty minutes, release him from the stay and leave the area again." Koehler on correcting the housebreaking backslider. "If the punishment is not severe enough, some of these "backsliders" will think they’re winning and will continue to mess in the house. An indelible impression can sometimes be made by giving the dog a hard spanking of long duration, then leaving him tied by the mess he’s made so you can come back at twenty minute intervals and punish him again for the same thing. (Dogs are REALLY stupid. J.H.) In most cases, the dog that deliberately does this disagreeable thing cannot be made reliable by the light spanking that some owners seem to think is adequate punishment. It will be better for your dog, as well as the house, if you really pour it on him." (MORE good KOEHLER training below, AFTER lyingfrosty dahl) Amy lyingfrosty dahl LIES with a straight face and says: "I don’t beat dogs, twist ears, or pinch toes. For the benefit of anyone who is in doubt, and who chooses not to read the article (SHE’D REALLY LIKE IT IF YOU DON’T READ IT!), there is NO mention in it of "twisting ears (INDEED, SHE PINCHES THEM WITH SPIKES). "Get a stick 30- or 40-inches long. You can have a helper wield the stick, or do it yourself. Tougher, less tractable dogs may require you to progress to striking them more sharply. REPEAT, VARYING HOW HARD YOU HIT THE DOG. I would never slap a dog (SHE TEACHES PEOPLE TO BEAT DOGS WITH STICKS TO MOTIVATE THEM). I would never advise anyone to slap a dog (SHE’S A PROVEN LIAR AND DOG ABUSER, do you expect her to ADMIT THE TRUTH???). I do not believe there is a single circumstance, ever, where slapping a dog is anything but destructive." RIGHT. She PINCHES, not twists… and chin cuff doesn’t mean hit, according to lyinglynn and avrama…. amy lyingfrosty dahl continues: Make the dog’s need to stop the pinching so urgent that resisting your will fades in importance. but will squeal, thrash around, and direct their efforts to escaping the ear pinch even get a studded collar and pinch the ear against that if the dog still does not open its mouth, get out the shotshell. Try pinching the ear between the metal casing and the collar, even the buckle on the collar. Persist! Eventually, the dog will give in" With your hand on the collar and ear, say, ‘fetch.’ Immediately tap the dog on the hindquarters with the stick. Repeat "fetch" and pinch the ear all the way to the dummy. REPEAT, VARYING HOW HARD YOU HIT THE DOG. You can press the dog’s ear with a shotshell instead of your thumb; Say "fetch" while pressing the dummy against its lips and pinching its ear. Gotta LOVE koehler. dahl makes koheler look like St. Francis. Our professor of behavior Wisc. U., lyingdoc dermer endorses koehler. (He said: "I punish dog’s behavior, NOT the dog." You gonna believe THAT CRAP, PEOPLE???) ron likes to use the heavy belt on his dogs "Read for koehler for content" Mark Shaw, Sadist, rpdb regular. "I LOVE KOHELER" lyinglynn, pathological liar, noted dog abuser. "There’s much wisdom in koehler," deana pace. (Her dogs run away from home.) "Read koehler," lyingdogDUMMY. (koehler is all he understands.) "Read koehler, cindymorons k-9 web faq’s page," ludwig smith. "Don’t let him do that, read cindymooreon’s web page," boob maida. "I’m not a koehler trainer," cindymoron, lyinglynn, lyingfrosty dahl. But they spout koehler’s methods. They don’t consider themselves koehler trainers because they shock, twist and pinch ears and toes, and BEAT DOGS WITH STICKS to MOTIVATE them. BARKING, WHINING, HOWLING, YODELING, SCREAMING, AND WAILING We’ll begin with the easiest kind of vocalist to correct: the one that charges gates, fences, doors, and windows, barking furiously at familiar or imaginary people and objects. A few clusters of BBs from a good slingshot, in conjunction with the light line and plenty of temptations, will cause such a dog to use his mind rather than his mouth. But you won’t make the permanent impression unless you supply dozens of opportunities for him to exercise the control he thus acquires. Make sure these opportunities don’t always come at the same time of the day, else he may learn to observe the "quiet hour" and pursue his old routines at other times. With the help of the light line, it will be easy to follow the BBs with a long down to make sure he gets the most from his lesson. As was mentioned before, eliminating the senseless barking will not lessen the dog’s value as a watchdog but rather, as he grows more discriminating, increase it. The dog who vocalizes in bratty protest or lonesomeness because you’re gone constitutes a different problem. If it is impractical for someone to stay with him constantly (there are owners who cater to neurosis by employing dog sitters), you’ll have to heed the neighbors and the law and quiet the dog. This calls for a little ingenuity as well as a heavy hand. Attach a line to your dog’s collar, so your corrective effort doesn’t turn into a footrace around the house until you reach a stalemate under the bed. This use of the line in the correction will also serve to establish it as a reminder to be quiet as the dog drags it around when you’re not present. Next, equip yourself with a man’s leather belt or a strap heavy enough to give your particular dog a good tanning. Yup-we’re going to strike him. Real hard. Remember, you’re dealing with a dog who knows he should be quiet and neighbors who have legal rights to see that he does. Now leave, and let your fading footsteps tell the dog of your going. When you’ve walked to a point where he’ll think you’re gone but where you could hear any noises he might make, stop and listen. If you find a comfortable waiting place on a nearby porch, be careful not to talk or laugh. Tests show a dog’s hearing to be many times as sharp as yours. When the noise comes, instead of trying to sneak up to the door so you can barge in while he’s still barking, which is generally impossible, respond to his first sound with an emphatic bellow of "out," and keep on bellowing as you charge back to his area. Thunder through the door or gate, snatch up the belt that you’ve conveniently placed, and descend on him. He’ll have no chance to dodge if you grab the line and reel him in until his front feet are raised off the floor or, if he’s a big dog, until you’ve snubbed him up with a hitch on something. While he’s held in close, lay the strap vigorously against his thighs. Keep pouring it on him until he thinks it’s the bitter end. A real whaling now may cut down somewhat on the number of repeat performances that will be necessary. When you’re finished and the dog is convinced that he is, put him on a long down to think things over while you catch your breath. After fifteen or twenty minutes, release him from the stay and leave the area again. So that you won’t feel remorseful, reflect on the truth that a great percentage of the barkers who are given away to "good homes" end up in the kindly black box with the sweet smell. Personally, I’ve always felt that it’s even better to spank children, even if they "cry out," than to "put them to sleep." You might have a long wait on that comfortable porch before your dog starts broadcasting again. When he does, let your long range bellow tie the consequent correction to his first sound and repeat the spanking, if anything emphasizing it a bit more. It might be necessary to spend a Saturday or another day off so that you’ll have time to follow through sufficiently. When you have a full day, you will be able to convince him each yelp will have a bad consequence, and the consistency will make your job easier. If he gets away with his concert part of the time, he’ll be apt to gamble on your inconsistency. After a half dozen corrections, "the reason and the correction" will be tied in close enough association so that you can move in on him without the preliminary bellowing of "out." From then on, it’s just a case of laying for the dog and supplying enough bad consequences of his noise so he’ll no longer feel like gambling. Occasionally, there is a dog who seems to sense that you’re hiding nearby and will utter no sound. He also seems to sense when you have really gone away, at least according to the neighbors. Maybe his sensing actually amounts to close observation. He could be watching and listening for the signs of your actual going. Make a convincing operation of leaving, even if it requires changing clothes … read more »

Response:

Hello billbob,

> He seems to be very disturbed from his posts.

You are a Seer? A Mystic? Perhaps just an ordinary human being who’se been struck by enlightenment? Could it be that you’re just an ordinary rpdb newbie??? At worst, your just and ordinary man who can READ. Any ordinary reader should be able to see I’m VERY disturbed by the commonly accepted methods of abuse taught by our most "respected experts" here. > He is calling everybody a liar

A spad is a spade, and I’ve got PROOF below. READ IT! > and rambles on about nothing in all his waste of bandwidth posts.

NOTHING? You call OUR "expert trainers" BEATING DOGS WITH STICKS, NOTHING??? Ah, ha! You’re just a buffoon who obviously hasn’t read the posts, OR YOU’RE ONE OF THEM!  Otherwise, you’d KNOW the content of those posts are DIRECT QUOTS from our renowned Gang Of Thugs koehler trainers and freestyle DOG ABUSERS! > Jerry do yourself a favour and get a life.

Do yourself a favor, and either READ my posts, or TAKE ISSUE with their CONTENT. Got any criticism of the FACTS as I present them??? Tell us HOWE the dog understands koehler coming back every twenty minutes to punish him again for the same mistake he’s tied him up next to, to housetrain him??? HOWE doES koehler KNOW the dog don’t think he’s coming back to beat him every twenty minutes for the same mistake, just because you’re mad at him, instead of just TRAINING him??? See what I mean, DUMMY? You can’t justify that. Tell us HOWE the dog knows he shouldn’t be barking? That is, until the beatings take effect, after ENOUGH lessons? Tell us  HOWE COME you think dogs might want to take a big chunk out of  an abusive Thug who beats him every twenty minutes for crappin on the floor in a room you’ve restricted him to for this purpose, and then tied him next to a forced accident? And when koehler OCCASIONALLY find a dog who objects to his training, why does he HANG the dog, instead of calm them down and teach them there’s nothing to be afraid of??? That’s the only question  ANYONE of you CAN answer, DUMMY. The answer is OBVIOUS. koehler trainers are DOG ABUSING COWARDS. When you’re done with the above, maybe you can give some defense for the dog abuse the and lies below FROM OUR Gang Of Thugs members??? Don’t miss the "GOOD KOEHLER TRAINING" below… Your pal, Jerry. Yours for freedom of information, Jerry "Freedom Of Information Act, Box10210 Pueblo, Colorado," Howe. lyinglynn writes: > For barking in the crate – leave the leash on and > pass it through the crate door.  Attach a line to it. > When he barks, use the line for a correction.

A CORRECTION? You’re going to JERK and CHOKE this new foster dog out of being AFRAID… that’s CORRECTION? lyinlynn says: "I LOVE KOEHLER," and in the next breath denies being a ‘koehler trainer.’ Is that because she ALSO shocks dogs, and koehler never had a shock collar? Pity that he was born too late to benefit from such a wondrous teaching tool, ISN’T it??? Most of our rpdb regulars are devout koehler trainers. Here are koehler’s "solutions" for barking and housetraining, and ENDORSEMENTS of koehler’s methods by our Gang Members. Here’s some good training tips from the same source cindy moore uses.

"Nope. That "beating dogs with sticks" things is something you twisted out of context, because you are full of bizarro manure." Koehler on correcting the Barking Dog Thunder through the door or gate, snatch up the belt that you’ve conveniently placed, and descend on him. He’ll have no chance to dodge if you grab the line and reel him in until his front feet are  raised off the floor or, if he’s a big dog, until you’ve snubbed him up with a hitch on something (ceiling hook, rafters, tree limb, door, or even over your shoulder, if you know HOWE. j.h.) While he’s held in close, lay the strap vigorously against his thighs. Keep pouring it on him until he thinks it’s the bitter end. A real whaling now may cut down somewhat on the number of repeat performances that will be necessary. When you’re finished and the dog is convinced that he is, put him on a long down to think things over while you catch your breath. After fifteen or twenty minutes, release him from the stay and leave the area again." Koehler on correcting the housebreaking backslider. "If the punishment is not severe enough, some of these "backsliders" will think they’re winning and will continue to mess in the house. An indelible impression can sometimes be made by giving the dog a hard spanking of long duration, then leaving him tied by the mess he’s made so you can come back at twenty minute intervals and punish him again for the same thing. (Dogs are REALLY stupid. J.H.) In most cases, the dog that deliberately does this disagreeable thing cannot be made reliable by the light spanking that some owners seem to think is adequate punishment. It will be better for your dog, as well as the house, if you really pour it on him." (MORE good KOEHLER training below, AFTER lyingfrosty dahl) Amy lyingfrosty dahl LIES with a straight face and says: "I don’t beat dogs, twist ears, or pinch toes. For the benefit of anyone who is in doubt, and who chooses not to read the article (SHE’D REALLY LIKE IT IF YOU DON’T READ IT!), there is NO mention in it of "twisting ears (INDEED, SHE PINCHES THEM WITH SPIKES). "Get a stick 30- or 40-inches long. You can have a helper wield the stick, or do it yourself. Tougher, less tractable dogs may require you to progress to striking them more sharply. REPEAT, VARYING HOW HARD YOU HIT THE DOG. I would never slap a dog (SHE TEACHES PEOPLE TO BEAT DOGS WITH STICKS TO MOTIVATE THEM). I would never advise anyone to slap a dog (SHE’S A PROVEN LIAR AND DOG ABUSER, do you expect her to ADMIT THE TRUTH???). I do not believe there is a single circumstance, ever, where slapping a dog is anything but destructive." RIGHT. She PINCHES, not twists… and chin cuff doesn’t mean hit, according to lyinglynn and avrama…. amy lyingfrosty dahl continues: Make the dog’s need to stop the pinching so urgent that resisting your will fades in importance. but will squeal, thrash around, and direct their efforts to escaping the ear pinch even get a studded collar and pinch the ear against that if the dog still does not open its mouth, get out the shotshell. Try pinching the ear between the metal casing and the collar, even the buckle on the collar. Persist! Eventually, the dog will give in" With your hand on the collar and ear, say, ‘fetch.’ Immediately tap the dog on the hindquarters with the stick. Repeat "fetch" and pinch the ear all the way to the dummy. REPEAT, VARYING HOW HARD YOU HIT THE DOG. You can press the dog’s ear with a shotshell instead of your thumb; Say "fetch" while pressing the dummy against its lips and pinching its ear. Gotta LOVE koehler. dahl makes koheler look like St. Francis. Our professor of behavior Wisc. U., lyingdoc dermer endorses koehler. (He said: "I punish dog’s behavior, NOT the dog." You gonna believe THAT CRAP, PEOPLE???) ron likes to use the heavy belt on his dogs "Read for koehler for content" Mark Shaw, Sadist, rpdb regular. "I LOVE KOHELER" lyinglynn, pathological liar, noted dog abuser. "There’s much wisdom in koehler," deana pace. (Her dogs run away from home.) "Read koehler," lyingdogDUMMY. (koehler is all he understands.) "Read koehler, cindymorons k-9 web faq’s page," ludwig smith. "Don’t let him do that, read cindymooreon’s web page," boob maida. "I’m not a koehler trainer," cindymoron, lyinglynn, lyingfrosty dahl. But they spout koehler’s methods. They don’t consider themselves koehler trainers because they shock, twist and pinch ears and toes, and BEAT DOGS WITH STICKS to MOTIVATE them. And now for a little MOORE good koehler training: BARKING, WHINING, HOWLING, YODELING, SCREAMING, AND WAILING We’ll begin with the easiest kind of vocalist to correct: the one that charges gates, fences, doors, and windows, barking furiously at familiar or imaginary people and objects. A few clusters of BBs from a good slingshot, in conjunction with the light line and plenty of temptations, will cause such a dog to use his mind rather than his mouth. But you won’t make the permanent impression unless you supply dozens of opportunities for him to exercise the control he thus acquires. Make sure these opportunities don’t always come at the same time of the day, else he may learn to observe the "quiet hour" and pursue his old routines at other times. With the help of the light line, it will be easy to follow the BBs with a long down to make sure he gets the most from his lesson. As was mentioned before, eliminating the senseless barking will not lessen the dog’s value as a watchdog but rather, as he grows more discriminating, increase it. The dog who vocalizes in bratty protest or lonesomeness because you’re gone constitutes a different problem. If it is impractical for someone to stay with him constantly (there are owners who cater to neurosis by employing dog sitters), you’ll have to heed the neighbors and the law and quiet the dog. This calls for a little ingenuity as well as a heavy hand. Attach a line to your dog’s collar, so your corrective effort doesn’t turn into a footrace around the house until you reach a stalemate under the bed. This use of the line in the correction will also serve to establish it as a reminder to be quiet as the dog drags it around when you’re not present. Next, equip yourself with a man’s leather belt or a strap heavy enough to give your particular dog a good tanning. Yup-we’re going to strike him. Real hard. Remember, you’re dealing with a dog who knows he should be quiet and neighbors who have legal rights to see that he does. Now leave, and let your fading footsteps tell the dog of your going. When you’ve walked to a point where he’ll think you’re gone but where you could hear … read more »

Response:

> Hello billbob, > At worst, your just and ordinary man who can READ. Any ordinary reader > should be able to see I’m VERY disturbed by

By looking here   http://home.i1.net/~dogman//jerry.html Before you buy.

Response:

psychoclown DEFENDS HANGING DOGS = A Ridiculous Argument To Support Hanging Dogs As Therapeutic = YOUR PAL HANGS DOGS BECAUSE HE IS AFRAID OF THEM

Question:

Bozo, you are defending a psychopath, a sadist, a person that provokes dog to turn on them, and then hangs them as a remedy. And that’s his remedy for the "revenge piddler," too. Anything will justify a good dose of physical abuse, as the remedy for behaviors that are instinctive to the dog, things that he has no way of knowing are inappropriate. Like dogman sticking his greasy fingers down puppies throats to inhibit them from biting, as he admits, and then having to "force" the dogs later to take objects that he want’s them to retrieve.  The people you are defending are sick, abusive, cretins. > My point was that no one dare disagree totally with Dogman. > OK, just for clarity, let me quote the paragraph that Amy and I are > asking you about again: > You said: > > And as for the ‘get out’ (get out means EXCUSE. j.h.) that some will > > choose "I’ve never done it, but would do so if it were a last resort and > > saved the dogs life" Well, that one just says it all :-) > I don’t really see what _this_ _paragraph_ has to do with disagreeing > with Dogman.

Because there is no justification of using brutality and calling it training. There are no exceptions to Right or Wrong. It is EITHER/OR. Anything less than that is contradictory to rational thinking and good judgment. > We understand the point you were trying to make regarding the thread. We > have specific question about the quoted paragraph above, and I don’t see > that it has anything to do with Dogman.

No comment. Go back to the clown train and stay there. > > My impression is that you feel that people who say they will suspend > > their usual practices in order to save a dog’s life are making > > excuses for using methods you find objectionable. Is this what you > > meant to imply?

I’ll say that. They do so because they are incompetent dog trainers. It’s simply ignorance, negligence, and apathy. AND IT SAYS SO IN THE BOOK the BIBLE, by koehler. > Absolutely not. > OK, then I don’t understand what you meant my the phrase "the ‘get > out’". Perhaps it’s British terminology I’m not familiar with. In > American ‘get out’ sounds like "excuse".

I’ll call it an excuse. It’s part of the Big Lie that koehler created to substantiate the justification for his abusive training methods. The problem is, that dogs die because of it. It is a carefully, psychologically designed, systematic desensitization and de conditioning of people, to their good judgment and human decency, based on misconceptions and koehler’s intentional misconstruing of canine behavior, to justify brutalizing dogs in lieu of having intelligent, productive, efficient, training methods. You, being a clown, had no need to have become familiar with those truths till I came here and pointed them out. There are numerous competent, full time, professional dog trainers, some of them specializing in behavior problems, that agree with me on these matters. For six months, I was the only one here, and you could gang up and take shots at me, and the popular opinion showed the majority of rpdb regulars, saying I was nuts. Now, there are more than ten competent trainers in agreement with me (most of whom no longer post here because it is futile), and you pigs are saying we’re all nuts. All the others have been chased off of this forum, because of you and your punk pals. It’s over. It ain’t happening any more. > > >   Do you approve or disapprove > > > > of suspending one’s usual practices in order to save > > > > a dog’s life?

If you think that scientific, properly planned and executed methods of dog training and conditioning, are subject to fail, then that is because you are not intelligent enough to understand WHY and HOWE they work. > > > Amy, I approve of change wherever it’s necessary, as long as it’s > > > an an improvement. > > So, if the dog’s life is saved, is that an improvement?

Not with the breakdown of appropriate handling and training. You are whipping a dead horse, rather than to look at the facts, and acknowledge the truth. The facts are, that aversion creates adversion, and that is a pitiful life style. Isn’t it? If I had to go through life choking dog for a living, I’d shovel shit instead. > It was the adaptation of method that I was referring to – and as long > as whatever is done to change the method is more effective (long term) > when that is an improvement. > Oh. Well, that doesn’t really address Amy’s question then.

Amy’s question is faulty from the get go. It is a red herring. It assumes that science does not apply to dog behavior. > Unless I’ve misunderstood Amy’s question, always possible. My impression > is that she was asking a hypothetical about extreme measures being > required after exhausting all other possibilites to save a dog’s life. > If I have misunderstood, I’m sure she will correct me.

Marilyn saw a red herring, and threw it back where it belongs. It’s a stupid question aimed at defending their alleged right to abuse dogs for a lack of competent dog training knowledge and ability. It’s disgusting, because we have answers that you pigs do not, and you are afraid to take advantage of intelligent solutions to problems you have not alternative methods of dealing with. It is a "get out" to not having enough INFORMATION. > But my understanding is that your answer to the hypothetical is either, > no, you would not approve of certain extreme measures taken, even if all > other avenues have been tried, to save a dog’s life, OR, you think the > question is meaningless.

And you don’t seem to understand that a dog is a dog, and appropriate, scientific methods of behavior modification will apply to all dogs, even wolves, but you gotta know HOWE. > By the latter, I mean to say you do not think > that it that a situation where that none of the avenues that you > personally would approve of works would ever occur, so there is no > reason to resort to "unapproved" methods.

There are situations that may require more THOUGHT,  perhaps more EFFORT, not more aggression and violence. > If so, then it would tend to support my understanding that you were > using the phrase "get out" to mean "excuse".

Excuse to resort to brutality. Furthermore, it is calculated into the "collateral damages," that is, dogs that are statistically determined will die, as a result of the training, that koehler anticipates based on statistics, and that is why he has the progression of desensitization and carefully designed rationalization of escalating violence in his text. These points are clear to us, because we have specialized in behavior problems in dogs for many, many, years, as our bread and butter… We know the facts. > Saving the dogs life is always the necessity. > So you _do_ approve of using unusual methods to save a life?

Unusual yes, sadistic, no. There is something called knowing HOWE to differentiate between Right and Wrong, and having morals and HUMAN DECENCY, decent VALUE JUDGEMENTS, MORALS and ETHICS, and PRINCIPLES. Sorry if I lost you along the way…. > [snip] > > No one disagrees with this. What does any of this have to do with > > Amy’s question? > No more than any of this has to do with my asking Dogman to take me > off his ‘bad taste’ site. > It’s called "thread drift" Marilyn. It’s part of Usenet, and you’ve been > here long enough to know that.

No, it’s called a conspiracy to limit the information that comes out here. That’s what it is. Your pals don’t want people to improve themselves, it’ll put them out of business. > Amy asked you a question to clarify a paragraph _you_ _wrote_ in this > thread. It is a question relevant to dog training and behavior. > If you don’t want to answer Amy’s question because it doesn’t fit what > you think the subject of this thread should be, then don’t. But don’t > pretend to answer just by writing words that have nothing to do with her > question. > >It was a pretty simple "yes or no" type question? > I don’t think so Terri. > Why not? Seemed like it to me. If you can’t answer yes or no, perhaps > you could explain why you don’t think it is a yes or no question.

Because in order to have an intellectual discussion, you have to have people with an intellect that can think beyond their wee wee. > [snip] > > My reading on you is that, no, you do not think people should use > > extreme measures to save a dog’s life.

You are a sick S.O.B., aren’t you? You are trying to make a ridiculous argument to support hanging dogs as therapeutic. You deserve to be shot out of the cannon without a net. What the hell is wrong with you? > If you mean ‘hanging’, ‘belting’, ‘drowning’ or ‘kicking’ > No, absolutely not – I don’t agree. > _This_ is the answer to Amy’s question. You do not approve of trainers > using unusual methods, even if it’s a last resort to save a dog.

"Even if," would not apply, if even some of the correct training methods were applied. > See? It was a yes or no question. Your answer was no.

The answer is obviously beyond your comprehension. That’s why it’s time for you to go back to the train and wait till we pull out of rpdb. You are being instead of making dogs and people happy. You are a sad clown. We don’t want you here if you are going to hurt dogs. > I understand that you do not believe that such a situation could arise, > where every method you approve of has been tried but not worked,

THAT"S THE POINT! The only ones saying our methods don’t work, are the bums who JERK, CHOKE, SHOCK, BEAT DOGS WITH STICKS to MOTIVATE them, and HANG DOGS to REHABILITATE them from their TRAINING!!! > and only methods that you do not approve of are left. I do not think you are > right about this, be we can agree to disagree.

No, we can agree that you do not know … read more »

Response:

>5,000lines of garbage

You never have to worry about anyone defending Jerry "The Abuser’ Howe. Before you buy.

Response:

Please help,dog eating feces

Question:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I Wish I could say there was a > magic > > bullet for this, but I didn’t find one. Good luck! And dodge those > kisses :) > > ..Kathy J > Thank you for the intelligent informative reply. > We are being as dilligent as possible with clean up. Hopefully will > end > the problem. > Marty > Here’s the INFORMATION you asked for. Let me know if you need additonal > help, or have difficulty overcoming this MINOR problem. > The web site blackman recommends tells us to feed the dog MSG. > That’s an error. The correct product is an ENZYME, containing > pappaine or bromelaine, the ingredients in Adolph’s UNSEASONED > Meat Tenderizer, papaya, and pineapple… . > That seems to aid the digestion, and therefore may solve the > sort of coprophagia associated with nutritional imbalances. > HOWEver, those are relatively rare cases, as MOST coprophagia > is an attempt to "hide the evidence," as a result of being > punished for housebreaking accidents. > blackman’s links also mistakenly advise cuttin the poo in half > lengthwise, and filling it with hot sauce and feeding it back to > the dog… That’s the menatlity we’re faced with here, and it’s > rampant throught the entire industry. > Using sound distraction and praise techniques will break the problem in > one or two days in most cases. If  he won’t do the dirty deed in front > of > you, the technique is a little different. The full technique is below > the > methods for addressing the behavior when you are not able to "catch him > in the act." > HERE’S HOWE: > SOUND DISTRACTION AND PRAISE > When sound is used after the fact of an incident, just present > the sound casually, at the site he had been eating it. That too, might > be difficult for you to determine, if he’s not willing to engage in > that > behavior in your presence. If that’s the case, any stool will do for > this exercise. > Put several pennies in a soda can and tape the top and crush > the sides so it’s square. Be sure to keep the can silent until it is > CASUALLY dropped at the site of a stool. As you walk through > the yard with him nearby, glance at a stool on the ground and > say "what’s that?" as you drop the can, and continue about the > yard. Do not retrieve the can in his presence. Repeat this > procedure using four cans, and four different stools. > HERE"S A HINT: try NOT to drop it right IN the stool, next to > it will be adequate. SAY NOTHING AFTER YOU DO THIS. When > he looks at a stool on the ground and looks up at you, that > REQUIRES that you praise him, because he likely understands > there’s something inappropriate with the idea of picking up stools > from the ground. You should repeat this procedure for several days in > succession, and then every other day for several more days. > Let me know if this works for you or not, I may have other > suggestions based on your feedback. > Using this technique is the easiest and fastest way to break > any behavior. There are a number of things that have to be > considered when beginning this approach. A few preliminary > exercises in the Wits’ End Dog Training Method manual > available at: http://www.doggydoright.com will explain the > basic handling techniques you should learn. Using them will insure > that the method will work to a high degree of proficiency. > The problem is that not many people understand how to use the > sound distraction and praise techniques correctly, and do not > know HOWE to use the come command as a default, if the > sound does not work on occasion. When you are told these > methods have been tried and didn’t work, rest assured > that whomever "tried" it and for whom it did not work, did not > "try" doing it correctly. If the technique does not work, the > come command is to be used as a default, and a new attempt at > addressing the problem can begin. > I’ve heard a couple of the "experts" here saying they’ve tried > it, and it didn’t work for them, or it made their dog nervous. > Those are usually the experts that choke and shock dogs, and are > trying to FORCE the dog using sound instead of choking or > shocking…Many of them have never read the techniques > presented here, and are using inappropriate or incorrect > methods. There are some people that do not follow directions > and get lousy results, and there are people that do not allow > the technique adequate repetition to be successful. Those problems > may occur if the technique is not done precisely. There is no > excuse that these techniques will not work if done correctly, t > they are a scientific fact. > Any sound will suffice. Ideally, the sound would be the same > each time, but that is not always possible. A single clap of > the hands or snap of the fingers would do, if it were followed by > praise, and as long as it does not happen twice in succession > from the same point of origin. That’s why several penny cans > are required. You cannot use the same can for more than two > occasions in succession. The sound must always be > accompanied with praise. The sound must never occur from the > same point of origin twice in succession. The sound must be > brief. Any UNINTENTIONAL sounding should be avoided and > PRAISED if it occurs. That will let the dog know it was not > intended for them. When more than one dog is present when > using sound distractions and praise techniques, all dogs > present must receive praise with direct eye contact so they will > UNDERSTAND they were not being addressed. The praise must > continue constantly for several seconds following any sound > cue to allow the thought process to be completed. The behavior > must be allowed or made to be repeated and interrupted using > sound and praise until the behavior is broken. And most > importantly, the moment the dog thinks of resuming the > behavior, you must praise him. > That’s right. When the dog thinks about resuming the behavior, > if you praise him at that exact moment, the previous corrections > will be restimulated in the dogs mind, and the behavior will be > extinguished. > That seems to be the real hard part for the trainers here to > understand. They want to make it happen, and they interfere > with the dog’s thought process. The dog will learn through the > process of elimination of alternative actions or behaviors. It > takes a few minutes, and the behavior is eliminated, rather > than repressed and seething to resume, as is the case with physical > or verbal corrections, confrontation, or punishment > "techniques." > The trainer will confound his efforts when they insist on > telling the dog "NO!," instead of relying on the conditioning that has > been established. Shouting at the dog will often trigger the > opposite of the desired effect. What further complicates the > process for the trainer, is that they break the conditioning > when they respond with a different corrective technique out of a > reflexive reaction of their own, such as screaming "No!," or > reaching out to grab the dog and physically correcting the dog > for a further instance of malbehavior, rather than taking the > moment to think about the best way to address the problem, and > if necessary search for a can and follow through with the > appropriate sound and praise. > The process must be carried out using an alternate source of > sound for the next interruption. An associate could be enlisted > and instructed to clap their hands on signal to accomplish the > desired sound interruption. We want the dog to exhaust all of > the alternative malbehaviors he can pull out of his bag of > tricks, in order for us to extinguish them EACH in turn. > Any time we interact in a behavior by telling the dog no, or > physically restrain or correct him, we are becoming part of the > behavior, either as a player or competitor in the dogs > mischief. > Using sound as a distraction must always be followed by > immediate, prolonged, non physical praise. Interrupting a > behavior with sound should never be associated with us, as in > voicing no, or telling the dog to stop it. > The behavior should NOT be distracted with any PHYSICAL > INTERVENTION. We want the behavior to begin again, so that > we may have another opportunity to properly address the > behavior with another sound and praise. > That way, we can completely end a problem while the dog is > THINKING about it, and we are prepared to address the issue > before it becomes out of control. The sound must never occur > twice in a row from the same direction. > In other words, if you snapped your fingers in front of the dog > to stop him from chewing on your shoelace, you’d praise him for > five to fifteen seconds immediately upon snapping your fingers. > The behavior will hopefully resume, and the next attempt at > chewing the shoelace, the sound of the snap of your fingers > must come from behind the dog, or even from a friend assisting > from across the room, from a soda can with a few pennies in it, > or any source of sound (except our voice!), followed by > prolonged non physical praise, until the dog is no longer > thinking about the behavior or resumes it. > The third interruption of the behavior usually gets the message > across, and the dog will think about the behavior for just a > moment before engaging in it once again for the fourth and last > time… That split second thinking about engaging in the > behavior requires praise. Do not react to it with a challenge of > shouting no, or physically removing the temptation. > That moment of thinking about resuming the behavior and the > praise it earns him, will validate the prior interruptions of > that behavior.The dog then needs to test it out, to be sure that the > same behavior will be dealt with in exactly the same manner. > They will usually make a

… read more »

Response:

> I Wish I could say there was a > magic > bullet for this, but I didn’t find one. Good luck! And dodge those > kisses :) > ..Kathy J > Thank you for the intelligent informative reply. > We are being as dilligent as possible with clean up. Hopefully will end > the problem. > Marty

Here’s the INFORMATION you asked for. Let me know if you need additonal help, or have difficulty overcoming this MINOR problem. The web site blackman recommends tells us to feed the dog MSG. That’s an error. The correct product is an ENZYME, containing pappaine or bromelaine, the ingredients in Adolph’s UNSEASONED Meat Tenderizer, papaya, and pineapple… . That seems to aid the digestion, and therefore may solve the sort of coprophagia associated with nutritional imbalances. HOWEver, those are relatively rare cases, as MOST coprophagia is an attempt to "hide the evidence," as a result of being punished for housebreaking accidents. blackman’s links also mistakenly advise cuttin the poo in half lengthwise, and filling it with hot sauce and feeding it back to the dog… That’s the menatlity we’re faced with here, and it’s rampant throught the entire industry. Using sound distraction and praise techniques will break the problem in one or two days in most cases. If  he won’t do the dirty deed in front of you, the technique is a little different. The full technique is below the methods for addressing the behavior when you are not able to "catch him in the act." HERE’S HOWE: SOUND DISTRACTION AND PRAISE When sound is used after the fact of an incident, just present the sound casually, at the site he had been eating it. That too, might be difficult for you to determine, if he’s not willing to engage in that behavior in your presence. If that’s the case, any stool will do for this exercise. Put several pennies in a soda can and tape the top and crush the sides so it’s square. Be sure to keep the can silent until it is CASUALLY dropped at the site of a stool. As you walk through the yard with him nearby, glance at a stool on the ground and say "what’s that?" as you drop the can, and continue about the yard. Do not retrieve the can in his presence. Repeat this procedure using four cans, and four different stools. HERE"S A HINT: try NOT to drop it right IN the stool, next to it will be adequate. SAY NOTHING AFTER YOU DO THIS. When he looks at a stool on the ground and looks up at you, that REQUIRES that you praise him, because he likely understands there’s something inappropriate with the idea of picking up stools from the ground. You should repeat this procedure for several days in succession, and then every other day for several more days. Let me know if this works for you or not, I may have other suggestions based on your feedback. Using this technique is the easiest and fastest way to break any behavior. There are a number of things that have to be considered when beginning this approach. A few preliminary exercises in the Wits’ End Dog Training Method manual available at: http://www.doggydoright.com will explain the basic handling techniques you should learn. Using them will insure that the method will work to a high degree of proficiency. The problem is that not many people understand how to use the sound distraction and praise techniques correctly, and do not know HOWE to use the come command as a default, if the sound does not work on occasion. When you are told these methods have been tried and didn’t work, rest assured that whomever "tried" it and for whom it did not work, did not "try" doing it correctly. If the technique does not work, the come command is to be used as a default, and a new attempt at addressing the problem can begin. I’ve heard a couple of the "experts" here saying they’ve tried it, and it didn’t work for them, or it made their dog nervous. Those are usually the experts that choke and shock dogs, and are trying to FORCE the dog using sound instead of choking or shocking…Many of them have never read the techniques presented here, and are using inappropriate or incorrect methods. There are some people that do not follow directions and get lousy results, and there are people that do not allow the technique adequate repetition to be successful. Those problems may occur if the technique is not done precisely. There is no excuse that these techniques will not work if done correctly, t they are a scientific fact. Any sound will suffice. Ideally, the sound would be the same each time, but that is not always possible. A single clap of the hands or snap of the fingers would do, if it were followed by praise, and as long as it does not happen twice in succession from the same point of origin. That’s why several penny cans are required. You cannot use the same can for more than two occasions in succession. The sound must always be accompanied with praise. The sound must never occur from the same point of origin twice in succession. The sound must be brief. Any UNINTENTIONAL sounding should be avoided and PRAISED if it occurs. That will let the dog know it was not intended for them. When more than one dog is present when using sound distractions and praise techniques, all dogs present must receive praise with direct eye contact so they will UNDERSTAND they were not being addressed. The praise must continue constantly for several seconds following any sound cue to allow the thought process to be completed. The behavior must be allowed or made to be repeated and interrupted using sound and praise until the behavior is broken. And most importantly, the moment the dog thinks of resuming the behavior, you must praise him. That’s right. When the dog thinks about resuming the behavior, if you praise him at that exact moment, the previous corrections will be restimulated in the dogs mind, and the behavior will be extinguished. That seems to be the real hard part for the trainers here to understand. They want to make it happen, and they interfere with the dog’s thought process. The dog will learn through the process of elimination of alternative actions or behaviors. It takes a few minutes, and the behavior is eliminated, rather than repressed and seething to resume, as is the case with physical or verbal corrections, confrontation, or punishment "techniques." The trainer will confound his efforts when they insist on telling the dog "NO!," instead of relying on the conditioning that has been established. Shouting at the dog will often trigger the opposite of the desired effect. What further complicates the process for the trainer, is that they break the conditioning when they respond with a different corrective technique out of a reflexive reaction of their own, such as screaming "No!," or reaching out to grab the dog and physically correcting the dog for a further instance of malbehavior, rather than taking the moment to think about the best way to address the problem, and if necessary search for a can and follow through with the appropriate sound and praise. The process must be carried out using an alternate source of sound for the next interruption. An associate could be enlisted and instructed to clap their hands on signal to accomplish the desired sound interruption. We want the dog to exhaust all of the alternative malbehaviors he can pull out of his bag of tricks, in order for us to extinguish them EACH in turn. Any time we interact in a behavior by telling the dog no, or physically restrain or correct him, we are becoming part of the behavior, either as a player or competitor in the dogs mischief. Using sound as a distraction must always be followed by immediate, prolonged, non physical praise. Interrupting a behavior with sound should never be associated with us, as in voicing no, or telling the dog to stop it. The behavior should NOT be distracted with any PHYSICAL INTERVENTION. We want the behavior to begin again, so that we may have another opportunity to properly address the behavior with another sound and praise. That way, we can completely end a problem while the dog is THINKING about it, and we are prepared to address the issue before it becomes out of control. The sound must never occur twice in a row from the same direction. In other words, if you snapped your fingers in front of the dog to stop him from chewing on your shoelace, you’d praise him for five to fifteen seconds immediately upon snapping your fingers. The behavior will hopefully resume, and the next attempt at chewing the shoelace, the sound of the snap of your fingers must come from behind the dog, or even from a friend assisting from across the room, from a soda can with a few pennies in it, or any source of sound (except our voice!), followed by prolonged non physical praise, until the dog is no longer thinking about the behavior or resumes it. The third interruption of the behavior usually gets the message across, and the dog will think about the behavior for just a moment before engaging in it once again for the fourth and last time… That split second thinking about engaging in the behavior requires praise. Do not react to it with a challenge of shouting no, or physically removing the temptation. That moment of thinking about resuming the behavior and the praise it earns him, will validate the prior interruptions of that behavior.The dog then needs to test it out, to be sure that the same behavior will be dealt with in exactly the same manner. They will usually make a fourth attempt at the behavior, and if you follow through appropriately, he will learn not to do that behavior anymore. But only on the one shoelace! He must take that behavior to other instances to fully cease the desire for the behavior. The behavior will not be completely broken until he has taken the process of elimination to the second, third, and fourth opportunity to explore that behavior. And, even at that, you may need to repeat the process in four completely … read more »

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi Marty – yup, the ol’ poop eaters are the biggest kissers in the whole > world. I have had 2 who indulge. When I asked why they did this, I got a lot > of answers – all, of course, the "correct" ones <G>. Some of them were – > reaction to harsh toilet training methods (hiding the evidence for fear of > punishment), vestigal wild behaior to hide their presence (presents?) from > preditors, enzyme difiency, protein defiency, mineral difiency, hormonal > influeneces as momma dogs do clean up after their offspring, food > deprivation or inadequate diet, psychosis and learned behavior from watching > other dogs do this. Ony one that came close was the hormonal thing because > one of my girls only did this when she came into season and has lost all > interest since being spayed – seriously, this one would stand in line!. The > rest didn’t fit at all. So, the cure. Well, we started out with one of those > powders that’s supposed to stop this. Didn’t work, unless you count the fact > that the other dogs wouldn’t eat their food with this powder on it so there > was very little poop available. Someone suggested that I put hot sauce on > it. I figured if I’m down there to baste it, why not just pick it up. I too > have a big back yard that’s all fenced in and wished that I could leave my > gang to go and do their own thing. But, unfortunately, to put an end to all > this, I had to go out there and scoop after every dog every time. Good news > is, it’s taken only a few months to get the last one to give up the habit. > He seems to be an opportunist – if it’s not there he doesn’t get it and > eventually he forgot about it. I still keep a very clean yard just to make > sure he doesn’t get back into the habit. Wish I could say there was a magic > bullet for this, but I didn’t find one. Good luck! And dodge those kisses :) > ..Kathy J

Hello kathy, Why don’t you put that koehler book that you’re studying down for a few minutes and LEARN something you won’t find there… Here’s the INFORMATION. Let me know if you need additonal help, or have difficulty overcoming this MINOR problem. The web site blackman recommends tells us to feed the dog MSG. That’s an error. The correct product is an ENZYME, containing pappaine or bromelaine, the ingredients in Adolph’s UNSEASONED Meat Tenderizer, papaya, and pineapple… . That seems to aid the digestion, and therefore may solve the sort of coprophagia associated with nutritional imbalances. HOWEver, those are relatively rare cases, as MOST coprophagia is an attempt to "hide the evidence," as a result of being punished for housebreaking accidents. blackman’s links also mistakenly advise cuttin the poo in half lengthwise, and filling it with hot sauce and feeding it back to the dog… That’s the menatlity we’re faced with here, and it’s rampant throught the entire industry. Using sound distraction and praise techniques will break the problem in one or two days in most cases. If  he won’t do the dirty deed in front of you, the technique is a little different. The full technique is below the methods for addressing the behavior when you are not able to "catch him in the act." HERE’S HOWE: When sound is used after the fact of an incident, just present the sound casually, at the site he had been eating it. That too, might be difficult for you to determine, if he’s not willing to engage in that behavior in your presence. If that’s the case, any stool will do for this exercise. Put several pennies in a soda can and tape the top and crush the sides so it’s square. Be sure to keep the can silent until it is CASUALLY dropped at the site of a stool. As you walk through the yard with him nearby, glance at a stool on the ground and say "what’s that?" as you drop the can, and continue about the yard. Do not retrieve the can in his presence. Repeat this procedure using four cans, and four different stools. HERE"S A HINT: try NOT to drop it right IN the stool, next to it will be adequate. SAY NOTHING AFTER YOU DO THIS. When he looks at a stool on the ground and looks up at you, that REQUIRES that you praise him, because he likely understands there’s something inappropriate with the idea of picking up stools from the ground. You should repeat this procedure for several days in succession, and then every other day for several more days. Let me know if this works for you or not, I may have other suggestions based on your feedback. Using this technique is the easiest and fastest way to break any behavior. There are a number of things that have to be considered when beginning this approach. A few preliminary exercises in the Wits’ End Dog Training Method manual available at: http://www.doggydoright.com will explain the basic handling techniques you should learn. Using them will insure that the method will work to a high degree of proficiency. The problem is that not many people understand how to use the sound distraction and praise techniques correctly, and do not know HOWE to use the come command as a default, if the sound does not work on occasion. When you are told these methods have been tried and didn’t work, rest assured that whomever "tried" it and for whom it did not work, did not "try" doing it correctly. If the technique does not work, the come command is to be used as a default, and a new attempt at addressing the problem can begin. I’ve heard a couple of the "experts" here saying they’ve tried it, and it didn’t work for them, or it made their dog nervous. Those are usually the experts that choke and shock dogs, and are trying to FORCE the dog using sound instead of choking or shocking…Many of them have never read the techniques presented here, and are using inappropriate or incorrect methods. There are some people that do not follow directions and get lousy results, and there are people that do not allow the technique adequate repetition to be successful. Those problems may occur if the technique is not done precisely. There is no excuse that these techniques will not work if done correctly, t they are a scientific fact. Any sound will suffice. Ideally, the sound would be the same each time, but that is not always possible. A single clap of the hands or snap of the fingers would do, if it were followed by praise, and as long as it does not happen twice in succession from the same point of origin. That’s why several penny cans are required. You cannot use the same can for more than two occasions in succession. The sound must always be accompanied with praise. The sound must never occur from the same point of origin twice in succession. The sound must be brief. Any UNINTENTIONAL sounding should be avoided and PRAISED if it occurs. That will let the dog know it was not intended for them. When more than one dog is present when using sound distractions and praise techniques, all dogs present must receive praise with direct eye contact so they will UNDERSTAND they were not being addressed. The praise must continue constantly for several seconds following any sound cue to allow the thought process to be completed. The behavior must be allowed or made to be repeated and interrupted using sound and praise until the behavior is broken. And most importantly, the moment the dog thinks of resuming the behavior, you must praise him. That’s right. When the dog thinks about resuming the behavior, if you praise him at that exact moment, the previous corrections will be restimulated in the dogs mind, and the behavior will be extinguished. That seems to be the real hard part for the trainers here to understand. They want to make it happen, and they interfere with the dog’s thought process. The dog will learn through the process of elimination of alternative actions or behaviors. It takes a few minutes, and the behavior is eliminated, rather than repressed and seething to resume, as is the case with physical or verbal corrections, confrontation, or punishment "techniques." The trainer will confound his efforts when they insist on telling the dog "NO!," instead of relying on the conditioning that has been established. Shouting at the dog will often trigger the opposite of the desired effect. What further complicates the process for the trainer, is that they break the conditioning when they respond with a different corrective technique out of a reflexive reaction of their own, such as screaming "No!," or reaching out to grab the dog and physically correcting the dog for a further instance of malbehavior, rather than taking the moment to think about the best way to address the problem, and if necessary search for a can and follow through with the appropriate sound and praise. The process must be carried out using an alternate source of sound for the next interruption. An associate could be enlisted and instructed to clap their hands on signal to accomplish the desired sound interruption. We want the dog to exhaust all of the alternative malbehaviors he can pull out of his bag of tricks, in order for us to extinguish them EACH in turn. Any time we interact in a behavior by telling the dog no, or physically restrain or correct him, we are becoming part of the behavior, either as a player or competitor in the dogs mischief. Using sound as a distraction must always be followed by immediate, prolonged, non physical praise. Interrupting a behavior with sound should never be associated with us, as in voicing no, or telling the dog to stop it. The behavior should NOT be distracted with any PHYSICAL INTERVENTION. We want the behavior to begin again, so that we may have another opportunity to properly address the behavior with another sound and praise. That way, we can completely end a problem while the dog is THINKING about it, and we are prepared to address the issue before it becomes out of control. The sound must never occur twice in a row from the same direction. In other words, if you snapped your … read more »

Response:

>It’s not reasonable to watch your dog 24/7 waiting for him to >take a go so you can go pick up after him.

You don’t have to watch them 24/7.  My dogs are in my house when I’m not home; because they’re housebroken they don’t have a chance to eat poo there.  When I get home, they go to a spot in the back yard where they poo and pee on command. No matter what reason dogs start to eat poo, the best way to break the habit is to pick it up ASAP. — –Matt.  Rocky’s a Dog, and is no longer a shit-eater.

Response:

>It’s not reasonable to watch your dog 24/7 waiting for him to >take a go so you can go pick up after him. > You don’t have to watch them 24/7.  My dogs are in my house when > I’m not home; because they’re housebroken they don’t have a > chance to eat poo there.  When I get home, they go to a spot in > the back yard where they poo and pee on command. > No matter what reason dogs start to eat poo, the best way to > break the habit is to pick it up ASAP. > — > –Matt.  Rocky’s a Dog, and is no longer a shit-eater.

That’s because you don’t know HOWE to train the dog… Bye!

"Nope. That "beating dogs with sticks" things is something you twisted out of context, because you are full of bizarro manure." And now for a little MOORE good koehler training: BARKING, WHINING, HOWLING, YODELING, SCREAMING, AND WAILING We’ll begin with the easiest kind of vocalist to correct: the one that charges gates, fences, doors, and windows, barking furiously at familiar or imaginary people and objects. A few clusters of BBs from a good slingshot, in conjunction with the light line and plenty of temptations, will cause such a dog to use his mind rather than his mouth. But you won’t make the permanent impression unless you supply dozens of opportunities for him to exercise the control he thus acquires. Make sure these opportunities don’t always come at the same time of the day, else he may learn to observe the "quiet hour" and pursue his old routines at other times. With the help of the light line, it will be easy to follow the BBs with a long down to make sure he gets the most from his lesson. As was mentioned before, eliminating the senseless barking will not lessen the dog’s value as a watchdog but rather, as he grows more discriminating, increase it. The dog who vocalizes in bratty protest or lonesomeness because you’re gone constitutes a different problem. If it is impractical for someone to stay with him constantly (there are owners who cater to neurosis by employing dog sitters), you’ll have to heed the neighbors and the law and quiet the dog. This calls for a little ingenuity as well as a heavy hand. Attach a line to your dog’s collar, so your corrective effort doesn’t turn into a footrace around the house until you reach a stalemate under the bed. This use of the line in the correction will also serve to establish it as a reminder to be quiet as the dog drags it around when you’re not present. Next, equip yourself with a man’s leather belt or a strap heavy enough to give your particular dog a good tanning. Yup-we’re going to strike him. Real hard. Remember, you’re dealing with a dog who knows he should be quiet and neighbors who have legal rights to see that he does. Now leave, and let your fading footsteps tell the dog of your going. When you’ve walked to a point where he’ll think you’re gone but where you could hear any noises he might make, stop and listen. If you find a comfortable waiting place on a nearby porch, be careful not to talk or laugh. Tests show a dog’s hearing to be many times as sharp as yours. When the noise comes, instead of trying to sneak up to the door so you can barge in while he’s still barking, which is generally impossible, respond to his first sound with an emphatic bellow of "out," and keep on bellowing as you charge back to his area. Thunder through the door or gate, snatch up the belt that you’ve conveniently placed, and descend on him. He’ll have no chance to dodge if you grab the line and reel him in until his front feet are raised off the floor or, if he’s a big dog, until you’ve snubbed him up with a hitch on something. While he’s held in close, lay the strap vigorously against his thighs. Keep pouring it on him until he thinks it’s the bitter end. A real whaling now may cut down somewhat on the number of repeat performances that will be necessary. When you’re finished and the dog is convinced that he is, put him on a long down to think things over while you catch your breath. After fifteen or twenty minutes, release him from the stay and leave the area again. So that you won’t feel remorseful, reflect on the truth that a great percentage of the barkers who are given away to "good homes" end up in the kindly black box with the sweet smell. Personally, I’ve always felt that it’s even better to spank children, even if they "cry out," than to "put them to sleep." You might have a long wait on that comfortable porch before your dog starts broadcasting again. When he does, let your long range bellow tie the consequent correction to his first sound and repeat the spanking, if anything emphasizing it a bit more. It might be necessary to spend a Saturday or another day off so that you’ll have time to follow through sufficiently. When you have a full day, you will be able to convince him each yelp will have a bad consequence, and the consistency will make your job easier. If he gets away with his concert part of the time, he’ll be apt to gamble on your inconsistency. After a half dozen corrections, "the reason and the correction" will be tied in close enough association so that you can move in on him without the preliminary bellowing of "out." From then on, it’s just a case of laying for the dog and supplying enough bad consequences of his noise so he’ll no longer feel like gambling. Occasionally, there is a dog who seems to sense that you’re hiding nearby and will utter no sound. He also seems to sense when you have really gone away, at least according to the neighbors. Maybe his sensing actually amounts to close observation. He could be watching and listening for the signs of your actual going. Make a convincing operation of leaving, even if it requires changing clothes and being unusually noisy as you slam the doors on the family car and drive away. Arrange with a friend to trade cars a block or two from your house so you can come back and park within earshot without a single familiar sound to tell the dog you’ve returned. A few of these car changes are generally enough to fool the most alert dog. Whether your dog believes you are gone anytime you step out of the house or requires the production of changing clothes and driving off, keep working until even your neighbors admit the dog has reformed. If there has been a long history of barking and whining, it sometimes requires a lot of work to make a dog be quiet when you’re not around, so give the above method an honest try before you presume your dog requires a more severe correction.

Response:

I Wish I could say there was a magic > bullet for this, but I didn’t find one. Good luck! And dodge those kisses :) > ..Kathy J

Thank you for the intelligent informative reply. We are being as dilligent as possible with clean up. Hopefully will end the problem. Marty Before you buy.

Response:

>>Got any training advice to TRAIN the dog not to do that? > Why would anyone in their right mind ever even try to TRAIN a dog not > to eat its own shit when this "behavior" can be totally eliminated > simply by TRAINING yourself to clean up after your own dog?

It’s not reasonable to watch your dog 24/7 waiting for him to take a go so you can go pick up after him.  That’s why people ask the question of how to break a shit-eater.  Dogs don’t just eat their own feces, they’ll eat other dogs’ feces and even eat out of the cat box.  How does one break a dog from eating out of a catbox even when the box is one of those self-cleaning contraptions?  The dog will just wait around until the cat uses the box and then chow down.  See the point? — David Griffith

Response:

There are several people on this board who sound like they are full of it ,  so you may ask them to stop by and help them selves with what they may find .   Its not hard to spot them .   You don’t even have to look for them they will sniff you out for their lunch .

Response:

Hi Marty – yup, the ol’ poop eaters are the biggest kissers in the whole world. I have had 2 who indulge. When I asked why they did this, I got a lot of answers – all, of course, the "correct" ones <G>. Some of them were – reaction to harsh toilet training methods (hiding the evidence for fear of punishment), vestigal wild behaior to hide their presence (presents?) from preditors, enzyme difiency, protein defiency, mineral difiency, hormonal influeneces as momma dogs do clean up after their offspring, food deprivation or inadequate diet, psychosis and learned behavior from watching other dogs do this. Ony one that came close was the hormonal thing because one of my girls only did this when she came into season and has lost all interest since being spayed – seriously, this one would stand in line!. The rest didn’t fit at all. So, the cure. Well, we started out with one of those powders that’s supposed to stop this. Didn’t work, unless you count the fact that the other dogs wouldn’t eat their food with this powder on it so there was very little poop available. Someone suggested that I put hot sauce on it. I figured if I’m down there to baste it, why not just pick it up. I too have a big back yard that’s all fenced in and wished that I could leave my gang to go and do their own thing. But, unfortunately, to put an end to all this, I had to go out there and scoop after every dog every time. Good news is, it’s taken only a few months to get the last one to give up the habit. He seems to be an opportunist – if it’s not there he doesn’t get it and eventually he forgot about it. I still keep a very clean yard just to make sure he doesn’t get back into the habit. Wish I could say there was a magic bullet for this, but I didn’t find one. Good luck! And dodge those kisses :) ..Kathy J – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Excuse me, never posted in here before, but it looks like the right > place for this question. > I rescued a female Lab mix about 2 years ago. She is(guessing) about 3-4 > years old. She has been spade. > The problem: about a year ago she started eating the feces of my other > labrador. He’s about 7 years old and neutered. We have tried different > foods for her, food supplements, vitamins. Some success, but it still > happens occassionally. Does anyone know what causes this and what to do > about it? Obviously it is rather disgusting, but it even worse cause > she’s a licker. Darn dog has a toungue like a paint brush. It’s got to > the point I don’t want to touch her cause she always tries to lick my > hand and I can help but wonder what she’s had in her mouth…..YUCH! > HELP! & thanks > Marty > Before you buy.

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> > That seems to aid the digestion, and therefore may solve the > > sort of coprophagia associated with nutritional imbalances. > > HOWEver, those are relatively rare cases, as MOST coprophagia > > is an attempt to "hide the evidence," as a result of being > > punished for housebreaking accidents. >  Proving once again you are an idiot > C’mon out, dirty dan h. I know that’s YOU. > Yours for freedom of information, Jerry "The Abuser" Howe.

More proof you are an idiot Before you buy.

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->> >> Is there a reason you don’t pick-up after your dogs? >> >Like I sed, I don’t normally post here, so I’ll go easy…. >> It’s the small things in life for which we should be grateful. >> >That’s a real help asshole. You assume I just leave shit all over my >> >yard for the dog to go eat. >> Yep, that’s what I’d assume, too, especially after reading your reply >> to Toni, who was just trying to help you. >> >I pick up my yard as quick as reasonable. >> How quick is "reasonable"? > [...] > — > Dogman > http://www.i1.net/~dogman > Buster "Dogman" Bocherelli > Running D Ranch > New Melle, MO > Visitors always welcome.

Hello lyingdogDUMMY,

>Got any training advice to TRAIN the dog not to do that? > Why would anyone in their right mind ever even try to TRAIN a dog not > to eat its own shit when this "behavior" can be totally eliminated > simply by TRAINING yourself to clean up after your own dog?

Because that doesn’t stop the dog from EATING POO. That’s why. People don’t expect to have to SUPERVISE the dog every time it goes outside. People with more than one dog don’t want to go running around behind them liky you do, trying to eat it before it hits the ground, like marybeth’s dogs do. People NEED to break their dogs of coprophagia… There’s NO EXCUSE NOT to stop the dog from eating poo. OTHERWISE, you’d have to be out there WATCHING all the time. I’ve known people who were going to GET RID of their dog if they couldn’t TRAIN him not to do that, because they had kids and didn’t want the dog SHARING it with them…like as if YOU’D care. Pigs LOVE poo. > Don’t even try to answer that question, Howe, it’s a waste of time for > you.

What waste of time? It usually just takes a few minutes to TRAIN the dog NOT to do that anymore… BUT YOU DON’T KNOW HOWE. BWAAAAHAHAHA! > Because only people in their *right minds* have a chance here.

You’re making an idiot out of yourself AGAIN. And you’re bringing your PALS with you. > And that pretty much leaves you out, doesn’t it?

INDEED. > BWAHAHAHAHA!

IT TAKES MINUTES TO BREAK THE BEHAVIOR. WITHOUT HANGING THE DOG!!! > Splash!

Dropped you jug again??? It’s not hard to break the dog of eating poo. BUT YOU GOTTA KNOW HOWE. Hey! Here’s a suggestion. You could ask Marty. I TOLD him HOWE to do it earlier today. lyinglynn will probably give you a bum steer, cause SHE’S a pathological LIAR. Hey, hey! Got some GOOD KOEHLER methods below, after lyingfrosty dahl’s EAR PINCHING AND BEATING DOGS WITH STICKS information… Yours for freedom of information, Jerry "Freedom Of Information Act, Box10210 Pueblo, Colorado," Howe. lyinglynn writes: > For barking in the crate – leave the leash on and > pass it through the crate door.  Attach a line to it. > When he barks, use the line for a correction.

A CORRECTION? You’re going to JERK and CHOKE this new foster dog out of being AFRAID… that’s CORRECTION? lyinlynn says: "I LOVE KOEHLER," and in the next breath denies being a ‘koehler trainer.’ Is that because she ALSO shocks dogs, and koehler never had a shock collar? Pity that he was born too late to benefit from such a wondrous teaching tool, ISN’T it???

"Nope. That "beating dogs with sticks" things is something you twisted out of context, because you are full of bizarro manure." Koehler on correcting the Barking Dog Thunder through the door or gate, snatch up the belt that you’ve conveniently placed, and descend on him. He’ll have no chance to dodge if you grab the line and reel him in until his front feet are  raised off the floor or, if he’s a big dog, until you’ve snubbed him up with a hitch on something (ceiling hook, rafters, tree limb, door, or even over your shoulder, if you know HOWE. j.h.) While he’s held in close, lay the strap vigorously against his thighs. Keep pouring it on him until he thinks it’s the bitter end. A real whaling now may cut down somewhat on the number of repeat performances that will be necessary. When you’re finished and the dog is convinced that he is, put him on a long down to think things over while you catch your breath. After fifteen or twenty minutes, release him from the stay and leave the area again." Koehler on correcting the housebreaking backslider. "If the punishment is not severe enough, some of these "backsliders" will think they’re winning and will continue to mess in the house. An indelible impression can sometimes be made by giving the dog a hard spanking of long duration, then leaving him tied by the mess he’s made so you can come back at twenty minute intervals and punish him again for the same thing. (Dogs are REALLY stupid. J.H.) In most cases, the dog that deliberately does this disagreeable thing cannot be made reliable by the light spanking that some owners seem to think is adequate punishment. It will be better for your dog, as well as the house, if you really pour it on him." Amy lyingfrosty dahl LIES with a straight face and says: "I don’t beat dogs, twist ears, or pinch toes. For the benefit of anyone who is in doubt, and who chooses not to read the article (SHE’D REALLY LIKE IT IF YOU DON’T READ IT!), there is NO mention in it of "twisting ears (INDEED, SHE PINCHES THEM WITH SPIKES). "Get a stick 30- or 40-inches long. You can have a helper wield the stick, or do it yourself. Tougher, less tractable dogs may require you to progress to striking them more sharply. REPEAT, VARYING HOW HARD YOU HIT THE DOG. I would never slap a dog (SHE TEACHES PEOPLE TO BEAT DOGS WITH STICKS TO MOTIVATE THEM). I would never advise anyone to slap a dog (SHE’S A PROVEN LIAR AND DOG ABUSER, do you expect her to ADMIT THE TRUTH???). I do not believe there is a single circumstance, ever, where slapping a dog is anything but destructive." RIGHT. She PINCHES, not twists… and chin cuff doesn’t mean hit, according to lyinglynn and avrama…. amy lyingfrosty dahl continues: Make the dog’s need to stop the pinching so urgent that resisting your will fades in importance. but will squeal, thrash around, and direct their efforts to escaping the ear pinch even get a studded collar and pinch the ear against that if the dog still does not open its mouth, get out the shotshell. Try pinching the ear between the metal casing and the collar, even the buckle on the collar. Persist! Eventually, the dog will give in" With your hand on the collar and ear, say, ‘fetch.’ Immediately tap the dog on the hindquarters with the stick. Repeat "fetch" and pinch the ear all the way to the dummy. You can press the dog’s ear with a shotshell instead of your thumb; Say "fetch" while pressing the dummy against its lips and pinching its ear. Gotta LOVE koehler. dahl makes koheler look like St. Francis. Our professor of behavior Wisc. U., lyingdoc dermer endorses koehler. (He said: "I punish dog’s behavior, NOT the dog." You gonna believe THAT CRAP, PEOPLE???) ron likes to use the heavy belt on his dogs "Read for koehler for content" Mark Shaw, Sadist, rpdb regular. "I LOVE KOHELER" lyinglynn, pathological liar, noted dog abuser. "There’s much wisdom in koehler," deana pace. (Her dogs run away from home.) "Read koehler," lyingdogDUMMY. (koehler is all he understands.) "Read koehler, cindymorons k-9 web faq’s page," ludwig smith. "Don’t let him do that, read cindymooreon’s web page," boob maida. "I’m not a koehler trainer," cindymoron, lyinglynn, lyingfrosty dahl. But they spout koehler’s methods. They don’t consider themselves koehler trainers because they shock, twist and pinch ears and toes, and BEAT DOGS WITH STICKS to MOTIVATE them.

Response:

> That seems to aid the digestion, and therefore may solve the > sort of coprophagia associated with nutritional imbalances. > HOWEver, those are relatively rare cases, as MOST coprophagia > is an attempt to "hide the evidence," as a result of being > punished for housebreaking accidents.

 Proving once again you are an idiot Before you buy.

Response:

> That seems to aid the digestion, and therefore may solve the > sort of coprophagia associated with nutritional imbalances. > HOWEver, those are relatively rare cases, as MOST coprophagia > is an attempt to "hide the evidence," as a result of being > punished for housebreaking accidents. >  Proving once again you are an idiot

C’mon out, dirty dan h. I know that’s YOU. Yours for freedom of information, Jerry "Freedom Of Information Act, Box10210 Pueblo, Colorado," Howe. lyinglynn writes: > For barking in the crate – leave the leash on and > pass it through the crate door.  Attach a line to it. > When he barks, use the line for a correction.

A CORRECTION? You’re going to JERK and CHOKE this new foster dog out of being AFRAID… that’s CORRECTION? lyinlynn says: "I LOVE KOEHLER," and in the next breath denies being a ‘koehler trainer.’ Is that because she ALSO shocks dogs, and koehler never had a shock collar? Pity that he was born too late to benefit from such a wondrous teaching tool, ISN’T it???

"Nope. That "beating dogs with sticks" things is something you twisted out of context, because you are full of bizarro manure." Koehler on correcting the Barking Dog Thunder through the door or gate, snatch up the belt that you’ve conveniently placed, and descend on him. He’ll have no chance to dodge if you grab the line and reel him in until his front feet are  raised off the floor or, if he’s a big dog, until you’ve snubbed him up with a hitch on something (ceiling hook, rafters, tree limb, door, or even over your shoulder, if you know HOWE. j.h.) While he’s held in close, lay the strap vigorously against his thighs. Keep pouring it on him until he thinks it’s the bitter end. A real whaling now may cut down somewhat on the number of repeat performances that will be necessary. When you’re finished and the dog is convinced that he is, put him on a long down to think things over while you catch your breath. After fifteen or twenty minutes, release him from the stay and leave the area again." Koehler on correcting the housebreaking backslider. "If the punishment is not severe enough, some of these "backsliders" will think they’re winning and will continue to mess in the house. An indelible impression can sometimes be made by giving the dog a hard spanking of long duration, then leaving him tied by the mess he’s made so you can come back at twenty minute intervals and punish him again for the same thing. (Dogs are REALLY stupid. J.H.) In most cases, the dog that deliberately does this disagreeable thing cannot be made reliable by the light spanking that some owners seem to think is adequate punishment. It will be better for your dog, as well as the house, if you really pour it on him." Amy lyingfrosty dahl LIES with a straight face and says: "I don’t beat dogs, twist ears, or pinch toes. For the benefit of anyone who is in doubt, and who chooses not to read the article (SHE’D REALLY LIKE IT IF YOU DON’T READ IT!), there is NO mention in it of "twisting ears (INDEED, SHE PINCHES THEM WITH SPIKES). "Get a stick 30- or 40-inches long. You can have a helper wield the stick, or do it yourself. Tougher, less tractable dogs may require you to progress to striking them more sharply. REPEAT, VARYING HOW HARD YOU HIT THE DOG. I would never slap a dog (SHE TEACHES PEOPLE TO BEAT DOGS WITH STICKS TO MOTIVATE THEM). I would never advise anyone to slap a dog (SHE’S A PROVEN LIAR AND DOG ABUSER, do you expect her to ADMIT THE TRUTH???). I do not believe there is a single circumstance, ever, where slapping a dog is anything but destructive." RIGHT. She PINCHES, not twists… and chin cuff doesn’t mean hit, according to lyinglynn and avrama…. amy lyingfrosty dahl continues: Make the dog’s need to stop the pinching so urgent that resisting your will fades in importance. but will squeal, thrash around, and direct their efforts to escaping the ear pinch even get a studded collar and pinch the ear against that if the dog still does not open its mouth, get out the shotshell. Try pinching the ear between the metal casing and the collar, even the buckle on the collar. Persist! Eventually, the dog will give in" With your hand on the collar and ear, say, ‘fetch.’ Immediately tap the dog on the hindquarters with the stick. Repeat "fetch" and pinch the ear all the way to the dummy. You can press the dog’s ear with a shotshell instead of your thumb; Say "fetch" while pressing the dummy against its lips and pinching its ear. Gotta LOVE koehler. dahl makes koheler look like St. Francis. Our professor of behavior Wisc. U., lyingdoc dermer endorses koehler. (He said: "I punish dog’s behavior, NOT the dog." You gonna believe THAT CRAP, PEOPLE???) ron likes to use the heavy belt on his dogs "Read for koehler for content" Mark Shaw, Sadist, rpdb regular. "I LOVE KOHELER" lyinglynn, pathological liar, noted dog abuser. "There’s much wisdom in koehler," deana pace. (Her dogs run away from home.) "Read koehler," lyingdogDUMMY. (koehler is all he understands.) "Read koehler, cindymorons k-9 web faq’s page," ludwig smith. "Don’t let him do that, read cindymooreon’s web page," boob maida. "I’m not a koehler trainer," cindymoron, lyinglynn, lyingfrosty dahl. But they spout koehler’s methods. They don’t consider themselves koehler trainers because they shock, twist and pinch ears and toes, and BEAT DOGS WITH STICKS to MOTIVATE them.

Response:

>Got any training advice to TRAIN the dog not to do that?

Why would anyone in their right mind ever even try to TRAIN a dog not to eat its own shit when this "behavior" can be totally eliminated simply by TRAINING yourself to clean up after your own dog? Don’t even try to answer that question, Howe, it’s a waste of time for you. Because only people in their *right minds* have a chance here. And that pretty much leaves you out, doesn’t it? BWAHAHAHAHA! Splash! – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> >> Is there a reason you don’t pick-up after your dogs? > >Like I sed, I don’t normally post here, so I’ll go easy…. > It’s the small things in life for which we should be grateful. > >That’s a real help asshole. You assume I just leave shit all over my > >yard for the dog to go eat. > Yep, that’s what I’d assume, too, especially after reading your reply > to Toni, who was just trying to help you. > >I pick up my yard as quick as reasonable. > How quick is "reasonable"?

[...] — Dogman http://www.i1.net/~dogman Buster "Dogman" Bocherelli Running D Ranch New Melle, MO Visitors always welcome.

Response:

Hello Marty,

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Excuse me, never posted in here before, but it looks like the right > place for this question. > I rescued a female Lab mix about 2 years ago. She is(guessing) about 3-4 > years old. She has been spade. > The problem: about a year ago she started eating the feces of my other > labrador. He’s about 7 years old and neutered. We have tried different > foods for her, food supplements, vitamins. Some success, but it still > happens occassionally. Does anyone know what causes this and what to do > about it? Obviously it is rather disgusting, but it even worse cause > she’s a licker. Darn dog has a toungue like a paint brush. It’s got to > the point I don’t want to touch her cause she always tries to lick my > hand and I can help but wonder what she’s had in her mouth…..YUCH! > HELP! & thanks > Marty

In case you haven’t figured it out yet, there IS NO WAY to stop dogs from eating poo, according to our "experts." That’s why they hide the cat litter box, and hide the food in their house, and block off rooms, and cover their couches with tin foil, confront, punish, and challenge dogs over their behaviors, and string electric wire around their yards, … Here’s the INFORMATION you asked for. Let me know if you need additonal help, or have difficulty overcoming this MINOR problem. The web site blackman recommends tells us to feed the dog MSG. That’s an error. The correct product is an ENZYME, containing pappaine or bromelaine, the ingredients in Adolph’s UNSEASONED Meat Tenderizer, papaya, and pineapple… . That seems to aid the digestion, and therefore may solve the sort of coprophagia associated with nutritional imbalances. HOWEver, those are relatively rare cases, as MOST coprophagia is an attempt to "hide the evidence," as a result of being punished for housebreaking accidents. blackman’s links also mistakenly advise cuttin the poo in half lengthwise, and filling it with hot sauce and feeding it back to the dog… That’s the menatlity we’re faced with here, and it’s rampant throught the entire industry. Using sound distraction and praise techniques will break the problem in one or two days in most cases. If  he won’t do the dirty deed in front of you, the technique is a little different. The full technique is below the methods for addressing the behavior when you are not able to "catch him in the act." HERE’S HOWE: When sound is used after the fact of an incident, just present the sound casually, at the site he had been eating it. That too, might be difficult for you to determine, if he’s not willing to engage in that behavior in your presence. If that’s the case, any stool will do for this exercise. Put several pennies in a soda can and tape the top and crush the sides so it’s square. Be sure to keep the can silent until it is CASUALLY dropped at the site of a stool. As you walk through the yard with him nearby, glance at a stool on the ground and say "what’s that?" as you drop the can, and continue about the yard. Do not retrieve the can in his presence. Repeat this procedure using four cans, and four different stools. HERE"S A HINT: try NOT to drop it right IN the stool, next to it will be adequate. SAY NOTHING AFTER YOU DO THIS. When he looks at a stool on the ground and looks up at you, that REQUIRES that you praise him, because he likely understands there’s something inappropriate with the idea of picking up stools from the ground. You should repeat this procedure for several days in succession, and then every other day for several more days. Let me know if this works for you or not, I may have other suggestions based on your feedback. Using this technique is the easiest and fastest way to break any behavior. There are a number of things that have to be considered when beginning this approach. A few preliminary exercises in the Wits’ End Dog Training Method manual available at: http://www.doggydoright.com will explain the basic handling techniques you should learn. Using them will insure that the method will work to a high degree of proficiency. The problem is that not many people understand how to use the sound distraction and praise techniques correctly, and do not know HOWE to use the come command as a default, if the sound does not work on occasion. When you are told these methods have been tried and didn’t work, rest assured that whomever "tried" it and for whom it did not work, did not "try" doing it correctly. If the technique does not work, the come command is to be used as a default, and a new attempt at addressing the problem can begin. I’ve heard a couple of the "experts" here saying they’ve tried it, and it didn’t work for them, or it made their dog nervous. Those are usually the experts that choke and shock dogs, and are trying to FORCE the dog using sound instead of choking or shocking…Many of them have never read the techniques presented here, and are using inappropriate or incorrect methods. There are some people that do not follow directions and get lousy results, and there are people that do not allow the technique adequate repetition to be successful. Those problems may occur if the technique is not done precisely. There is no excuse that these techniques will not work if done correctly, t they are a scientific fact. Any sound will suffice. Ideally, the sound would be the same each time, but that is not always possible. A single clap of the hands or snap of the fingers would do, if it were followed by praise, and as long as it does not happen twice in succession from the same point of origin. That’s why several penny cans are required. You cannot use the same can for more than two occasions in succession. The sound must always be accompanied with praise. The sound must never occur from the same point of origin twice in succession. The sound must be brief. Any UNINTENTIONAL sounding should be avoided and PRAISED if it occurs. That will let the dog know it was not intended for them. When more than one dog is present when using sound distractions and praise techniques, all dogs present must receive praise with direct eye contact so they will UNDERSTAND they were not being addressed. The praise must continue constantly for several seconds following any sound cue to allow the thought process to be completed. The behavior must be allowed or made to be repeated and interrupted using sound and praise until the behavior is broken. And most importantly, the moment the dog thinks of resuming the behavior, you must praise him. That’s right. When the dog thinks about resuming the behavior, if you praise him at that exact moment, the previous corrections will be restimulated in the dogs mind, and the behavior will be extinguished. That seems to be the real hard part for the trainers here to understand. They want to make it happen, and they interfere with the dog’s thought process. The dog will learn through the process of elimination of alternative actions or behaviors. It takes a few minutes, and the behavior is eliminated, rather than repressed and seething to resume, as is the case with physical or verbal corrections, confrontation, or punishment "techniques." The trainer will confound his efforts when they insist on telling the dog "NO!," instead of relying on the conditioning that has been established. Shouting at the dog will often trigger the opposite of the desired effect. What further complicates the process for the trainer, is that they break the conditioning when they respond with a different corrective technique out of a reflexive reaction of their own, such as screaming "No!," or reaching out to grab the dog and physically correcting the dog for a further instance of malbehavior, rather than taking the moment to think about the best way to address the problem, and if necessary search for a can and follow through with the appropriate sound and praise. The process must be carried out using an alternate source of sound for the next interruption. An associate could be enlisted and instructed to clap their hands on signal to accomplish the desired sound interruption. We want the dog to exhaust all of the alternative malbehaviors he can pull out of his bag of tricks, in order for us to extinguish them EACH in turn. Any time we interact in a behavior by telling the dog no, or physically restrain or correct him, we are becoming part of the behavior, either as a player or competitor in the dogs mischief. Using sound as a distraction must always be followed by immediate, prolonged, non physical praise. Interrupting a behavior with sound should never be associated with us, as in voicing no, or telling the dog to stop it. The behavior should NOT be distracted with any PHYSICAL INTERVENTION. We want the behavior to begin again, so that we may have another opportunity to properly address the behavior with another sound and praise. That way, we can completely end a problem while the dog is THINKING about it, and we are prepared to address the issue before it becomes out of control. The sound must never occur twice in a row from the same direction. In other words, if you snapped your fingers in front of the dog to stop him from chewing on your shoelace, you’d praise him for five to fifteen seconds immediately upon snapping your fingers. The behavior will hopefully resume, and the next attempt at chewing the shoelace, the sound of the snap of your fingers must come from behind the dog, or even from a friend assisting from across the room, from a soda can with a few pennies in it, or any source of sound (except our voice!), followed by prolonged non physical praise, until the dog is no longer thinking about the behavior or resumes it. The third interruption of the behavior usually gets the message across, and the dog will think about the behavior for just a moment before engaging in it once again for the fourth and last time… That split second thinking about engaging in the behavior … read more »

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> That’s why I’m here…

Yes Jer they put most mental cases in an institution Before you buy.

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Got any training advice to TRAIN the dog not to do that? BWAHAHAHAHAHAHA! Jerry.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->> Is there a reason you don’t pick-up after your dogs? >Like I sed, I don’t normally post here, so I’ll go easy…. > It’s the small things in life for which we should be grateful. >That’s a real help asshole. You assume I just leave shit all over my >yard for the dog to go eat. > Yep, that’s what I’d assume, too, especially after reading your reply > to Toni, who was just trying to help you. >I pick up my yard as quick as reasonable. > How quick is "reasonable"? > I have a hunch that in your case, a "reasonable" time is about twice a > year, *if* it doesn’t rain and the creek don’t rise. > Or when you get tired of stepping in it, and your toothless girlfriend > starts to complain about wearing your boots while you’re in bed > together. >I would prefer to solve the behavior so I don’t have to worry about every >turd the dog might find. > The only "behavior" problems is *yours,* not the dogs. > It’s called L-A-Z-I-N-E-S-S. > Lots of dogs eat turds, especially when their owners allow them to > always have a nice selection available on the menu. > To your dogs, your backyard is starting to look a lot like Chez > Paul’s, in New Orleans. >Maybe you got nothin but time on your hands and >prefer to follow your dog around the yard, but I like to be able to let >mine out into the fenced yard and not have to worry about who’s taking a >dump every minute they’re out there. > Then get used to your dog eating turds. >G-d what a pompous ignorant reply that was. > What, pray tell, was ignorant or pompous about it? > She asked you a perfectly legitimate question! > How often do you clean up after your dog? > And therein is your solution to your dog’s "behavior" problem. >You should go do what I’m trying to keep my dog from. > Yeah, right. > Here’s another little bit of advice: > When your dogs’ breath starts to smell even worse then your toothless > girlfriend’s, Nolvadent Oral Cleansing Solution (for the dogs, not > your girlfriend) works nicely. > I repeat:It’s for the DOGS! > Not your girlfriend. > — > Dogman > http://www.i1.net/~dogman > Homer "Dogman" Flaskamper > General Delivery > Defiance, MO

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>> Is there a reason you don’t pick-up after your dogs? >Like I sed, I don’t normally post here, so I’ll go easy….

It’s the small things in life for which we should be grateful. >That’s a real help asshole. You assume I just leave shit all over my >yard for the dog to go eat.

Yep, that’s what I’d assume, too, especially after reading your reply to Toni, who was just trying to help you. >I pick up my yard as quick as reasonable.

How quick is "reasonable"? I have a hunch that in your case, a "reasonable" time is about twice a year, *if* it doesn’t rain and the creek don’t rise. Or when you get tired of stepping in it, and your toothless girlfriend starts to complain about wearing your boots while you’re in bed together. >I would prefer to solve the behavior so I don’t have to worry about every >turd the dog might find.

The only "behavior" problems is *yours,* not the dogs. It’s called L-A-Z-I-N-E-S-S. Lots of dogs eat turds, especially when their owners allow them to always have a nice selection available on the menu. To your dogs, your backyard is starting to look a lot like Chez Paul’s, in New Orleans. >Maybe you got nothin but time on your hands and >prefer to follow your dog around the yard, but I like to be able to let >mine out into the fenced yard and not have to worry about who’s taking a >dump every minute they’re out there.

Then get used to your dog eating turds. >G-d what a pompous ignorant reply that was.

What, pray tell, was ignorant or pompous about it? She asked you a perfectly legitimate question! How often do you clean up after your dog? And therein is your solution to your dog’s "behavior" problem. >You should go do what I’m trying to keep my dog from.

Yeah, right. Here’s another little bit of advice: When your dogs’ breath starts to smell even worse then your toothless girlfriend’s, Nolvadent Oral Cleansing Solution (for the dogs, not your girlfriend) works nicely. I repeat:It’s for the DOGS! Not your girlfriend. — Dogman http://www.i1.net/~dogman Homer "Dogman" Flaskamper General Delivery Defiance, MO

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>      Louis Menand

Thank you for your informative and helpful reply I have not read this Jerry’s post yet…..should I? Marty Before you buy.

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Hello lia, > The question has come up before, and the answer is always the same

That’s why I’m here… Time for a change, don’t you think? No, you don’t THINK. You were the FIRST to complain about me. > (to clean up after the dog) so I thought I’d add some new information on > how to make cleaning up less unpleasant.

Well lia, sounds like your in your element, eh good buddy? > 1.  Save plastic bags.  Most supermarkets give them out nowadays. Keep a > drawer in your kitchen for plastic bags or make a "bag snake" out of a > long sleeve off a shirt or a half yard of fabric.  All you need is a tube > of fabric with a draw string at both ends.  The bag snake is then hung in > the closet.  Plastic bags go in the top and can be removed conveniently > and one at a time from the bottom.

Exellent advice. I’ve got a "bag snake," but I don’t use it for snake proofing. > 2.  Put a plastic in your jeans pocket whenever you walk your dog or put > it there and forget about it until you need it.  Other options include > wearing a fanny pack for dog walking and putting the bag there.

More excellent poo advice. Got any DOG TRAINING advice??? > 3.  To pick up dog shit,

Nice talk, lia. Try to clean up your act the next time you’re into cleaning… > turn the bag inside out, gather the shit into > the bottom of it and quick turn it right side out again.  With a little > practice this can be done quickly, efficiently and with a minimum of > grimacing and gag reaction.

Yes. Gag. Meanwhile, don’t forget to carry paper towels or tissues with you. I’ve always got a pocket full, usuall obtained from fast food restaurants. Wendy’s has the biggest napkins. But that’s not helping our coprophagia problem, is it??? >  (Although those are perfectly acceptable if  you need to do them.) If you got > particularly bad service from a store,  try to make the store’s logo face out > so everyone can see what you’re doing with their bags.

That’s more like it. I particlularly enjoy vindictive mental masturbation… > If you liked the store, use the bags anyway but be considerate of what > you’re doing to their reputation.

Beauty is in the mind of the beholder, isn’t it? > 4.  If you live in a city, there might be public waste disposal bins, but > in my end of suburbia, I end up taking the little pleasant packages > home.  I stick them by a corner of the house where they live until the > weekly garbage pick-up when I carry them out to the curb.  But really, > composting is probably a better idea.  See the gardening group for > details.  This entails turning the bag inside out a second time since > plastic doesn’t make good compost.

Yes, and don’t forget to GAG. > 5.  If your dog goes in the yard, follow the same instructions except > clean up from the yard.  That way you don’t have to walk around the > neighborhood with the package.

BRILLIANT! > 6.  Wash your hands when you get home.  You’ve probably only > touched the plastic bag, but wash you hands anyway.

Cleanliness is next to G-dliness… > 7.  Autumn and fall make for the easiest pick-ups since leaves and snow > can go in the bag.  It’s neatest that way.  Spring and summer just have > to be dealt with.

Wouldn’t know about that, I don’t do cold. > –Lia, with Cubbe who hasn’t picked up the nasty habit

But he does get jerked and choked on a pronged choke collar for snapping at you, doesn’t he?  Meanwhile, got any dog training advice? Coprophagia is a common problem, and the name of this group is dog behavior, NOT better homes and gardens. Thanks for your pertinent advice. Yours for cleanliness, Jerry "Sanitation Services," Howe. You can get all the information you need to properly handle and train your dog using non force, non confrontational, scientific and psychological behavior modification and conditioning techniques, from the Wits’ End Dog Training Method manual available for free at http://www.doggydoright.com "Thus we should beware of clinging to vulgar opinions, and judge things by reason’s way, not by popular say." Montaigne "Violence is the last refuge of the incompetent." Salvor Hardin "If you cannot convince them, confuse them." H.S. Truman. DRAINING THE SWAMP, AND RELOCATING THE GATORS… j;~) "CUSTOM WILL RECONCILE PEOPLE TO ANY ATROCITY." G.B. Shaw. "I know that most men, including those at ease with problems of the greatest complexity, can seldom accept even the simplest and most obvious truth if it would oblige them to admit the falsity of conclusions which they have delighted in explaining to colleagues, proudly taught to others, and which they have woven, thread by thread, into the fabric of their lives."                                              Leo Tolstoy Is it any wonder that the following sig file has generated more complaints to my personal email than any other controversial post I have made to date, bar none?:                                             caveat If you have to do things to your dog to train him, that you would rather not have to do, then you shouldn’t be doing them. If you have a dog trainer that tells you to jerk your dog around, choke him, pinch his ears, or twist his toes, shock, shake, slap, scold, hit, or punish him in any manner, that corrections are appropriate, that the dog won’t think of you as the punisher, or that corrections are not harmful, or if they can’t train your dog to do what you want, look for a trainer that knows Howe. Sincerely, Jerry Howe, Wits’ End Dog Training http://www.doggydoright.com Nature, to be mastered, must be obeyed.                       -Francis Bacon- There are terrible people who, instead of solving a problem, bungle it and make it more difficult for all who come after.  Who ever can’t hit the nail on the head should, please, not hit at all.                      -Nietzsche- The abilities to think, rationalize and solve problems are learned qualities. The Wits’ End Dog Training Method challenges the learning centers in the dogs brain. These centers, once challenged, develop and continue to grow exponentially, to make him smarter. The Wits’ End Dog Training method capitalizes on praising split seconds of canine thought, strategy, and timing, not mindless hours of forced repetition, constant corrections, and scolding.                   -Jerry Howe-

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That’s not a solution. What about OTHER places he’s likely to do that? This is a TRAINING problem, not a sanitary issue… You don’t have ANY advice, do you? Your pal marybeth just allows her dogs to eat fresh hot poo even before it hits the ground, it makes yard clean up a snap… Yours for cleaner backyards, Jerry "Super Pooper Scooper," Howe.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Excuse me, never posted in here before, but it looks like the right > place for this question. > I rescued a female Lab mix about 2 years ago. She is(guessing) about 3-4 > years old. She has been spade. > The problem: about a year ago she started eating the feces of my other > labrador. > Is there a reason you don’t pick-up after your dogs? > We let ‘em out, they poop, we pick-up. > Habit, and solves all the nasty peripheral problems. > — > Toni > www.irish-wolfhounds.com > Click the "Update on Steve"

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Excuse me, never posted in here before, but it looks like the right place for this question. I rescued a female Lab mix about 2 years ago. She is(guessing) about 3-4 years old. She has been spade. The problem: about a year ago she started eating the feces of my other labrador. He’s about 7 years old and neutered. We have tried different foods for her, food supplements, vitamins. Some success, but it still happens occassionally. Does anyone know what causes this and what to do about it? Obviously it is rather disgusting, but it even worse cause she’s a licker. Darn dog has a toungue like a paint brush. It’s got to the point I don’t want to touch her cause she always tries to lick my hand and I can help but wonder what she’s had in her mouth…..YUCH! HELP! & thanks Marty Before you buy.

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> Excuse me, never posted in here before, but it looks like the right > place for this question. > I rescued a female Lab mix about 2 years ago. She is(guessing) about 3-4 > years old. She has been spade. > The problem: about a year ago she started eating the feces of my other > labrador.

Is there a reason you don’t pick-up after your dogs? We let ‘em out, they poop, we pick-up. Habit, and solves all the nasty peripheral problems. — Toni www.irish-wolfhounds.com Click the "Update on Steve"

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The question has come up before, and the answer is always the same (to clean up after the dog) so I thought I’d add some new information on how to make cleaning up less unpleasant. 1.  Save plastic bags.  Most supermarkets give them out nowadays.  Keep a drawer in your kitchen for plastic bags or make a "bag snake" out of a long sleeve off a shirt or a half yard of fabric.  All you need is a tube of fabric with a draw string at both ends.  The bag snake is then hung in the closet.  Plastic bags go in the top and can be removed conveniently and one at a time from the bottom. 2.  Put a plastic in your jeans pocket whenever you walk your dog or put it there and forget about it until you need it.  Other options include wearing a fanny pack for dog walking and putting the bag there. 3.  To pick up dog shit, turn the bag inside out, gather the shit into the bottom of it and quick turn it right side out again.  With a little practice this can be done quickly, efficiently and with a minimum of grimacing and gag reaction.  (Although those are perfectly acceptable if you need to do them.)  If you got particularly bad service from a store, try to make the store’s logo face out so everyone can see what you’re doing with their bags.  If you liked the store, use the bags anyway but be considerate of what you’re doing to their reputation. 4.  If you live in a city, there might be public waste disposal bins, but in my end of suburbia, I end up taking the little pleasant packages home.  I stick them by a corner of the house where they live until the weekly garbage pick-up when I carry them out to the curb.  But really, composting is probably a better idea.  See the gardening group for details.  This entails turning the bag inside out a second time since plastic doesn’t make good compost. 5.  If your dog goes in the yard, follow the same instructions except clean up from the yard.  That way you don’t have to walk around the neighborhood with the package. 6.  Wash your hands when you get home.  You’ve probably only touched the plastic bag, but wash you hands anyway. 7.  Autumn and fall make for the easiest pick-ups since leaves and snow can go in the bag.  It’s neatest that way.  Spring and summer just have to be dealt with. –Lia, with Cubbe who hasn’t picked up the nasty habit — "It is a strange fact of life on earth that a human being who reaches college age under the impression that "it’s" is the possessive form of "it" cannot be disabused of that belief.  No amount of red ink will wash it out."      Louis Menand

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> Is there a reason you don’t pick-up after your dogs?

Like I sed, I don’t normally post here, so I’ll go easy…. That’s a real help asshole. You assume I just leave shit all over my yard for the dog to go eat. I pick up my yard as quick as reasonable. I would prefer to solve the behavior so I don’t have to worry about every turd the dog might find. Maybe you got nothin but time on your hands and prefer to follow your dog around the yard, but I like to be able to let mine out into the fenced yard and not have to worry about who’s taking a dump every minute they’re out there. G-d what a pompous ignorant reply that was. You should go do what I’m trying to keep my dog from. Thanks for nothin, MArty Before you buy.

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Raisin's stitches out!

Question:

Now I am rubbing vitamin E into her. She’s allowed to WALK for 5 minutes at a time. How do I do dat? Don’t say leash — she hasn’t yet learned not to pull, and shoves really hard with her hind legs. Now isn’t a good time to do the ole turn-around-and-go-the-other way trick. I don’t want to chance her falling. She has two speeds — sleep and zoom. Jane Webb  & Moonpie & Raisin Pie

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> Now I am rubbing vitamin E into her. She’s allowed to WALK for 5 minutes at a > time. > How do I do dat? > Don’t say leash — she hasn’t yet learned not to pull, and shoves really hard > with her hind legs. Now isn’t a good time to do the ole > turn-around-and-go-the-other way trick. I don’t want to chance her falling. > She has two speeds — sleep and zoom.

Maybe really big rubber bands criss-crossing around her legs? Kristine & Oscar

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> Now I am rubbing vitamin E into her. She’s allowed to WALK for 5 minutes at a > time. > How do I do dat? > Don’t say leash — she hasn’t yet learned not to pull, and shoves really hard > with her hind legs. Now isn’t a good time to do the ole > turn-around-and-go-the-other way trick. I don’t want to chance her falling. > She has two speeds — sleep and zoom.

The turn around trick doesn’t work for all dogs anyway.  My method with Tanith was to note what she really wanted was to be moving.  The direction didn’t matter. So if she pulled I took away from her what she wanted – I stopped moving.  Made like a rock.  I didn’t talk to her either. No attention and can’t go no where, bummer.  The moment the least became loose I started moving.  Yay! reward for a loose leash. It took little effort beyond exercising a great deal of patience. Diane Blackman http://www.dog-play.com/  http://www.dog-play.com/TOTE.html Re: Jerry Howe http://www.dog-play.com/jerry.html Falling short of a goal of "excellent" leaves room for "very good." Falling short of a goal of "good enough" leaves only "not good enough."

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Maybe a harness, so it could also help support her if she stumbles?  Harness are known for making pulling worse, though.  jdoee – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Now I am rubbing vitamin E into her. She’s allowed to WALK for 5 minutes at a > time. > How do I do dat? > Don’t say leash — she hasn’t yet learned not to pull, and shoves really hard > with her hind legs. Now isn’t a good time to do the ole > turn-around-and-go-the-other way trick. I don’t want to chance her falling. > She has two speeds — sleep and zoom. > Jane Webb >  & Moonpie & Raisin Pie

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  Is the excitement of going for a WALK!! too much?  Mebbe she better just mosey about the yard for a while?

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> Now I am rubbing vitamin E into her. She’s allowed to WALK for 5 minutes at a > time. > How do I do dat? > Don’t say leash — she hasn’t yet learned not to pull, and shoves really hard > with her hind legs. Now isn’t a good time to do the ole > turn-around-and-go-the-other way trick. I don’t want to chance her falling. > She has two speeds — sleep and zoom. > Jane Webb >  & Moonpie & Raisin Pie

It would be preferable to train the dog to heel BECAUSE she is hurt, so she doesn’t injure herself some more, and so that she can get the exercise and range of movement she needs, to recuperate from surgery… If you didn’t turn about and jerk and choke the dog, you’d be able to train her to heel as long as she is able to walk… But all you understand is jerk, choke, and shock. Jerry.

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Hello blackman,

> The turn around trick doesn’t work for all dogs anyway.

Says who, YOU? What would you know about it? Your own dog has been a chronic puller for five solid years, despite all the jerking and choking him with a pronged choke collar neatly disguised under a knitted cover-up, and burning him with a shock collar… > My method with Tanith was to note what she really wanted was

to be > moving. I’m sure. She’d be wanting to be moving ANYWHERE far away from you. The reason the turn around TRICK as you call it doesn’t work for you is BECAUSE THE DOG WOULDN’T WANT TO BE WITH YOU because you JERK and CHOKE him. You can’t have it both ways blackman. You can’t jerk and choke a dog and expect him to want to be with you. If cavemen treated dogs the way you do, we’d never have a domestic dog. > The direction didn’t matter.  So if she pulled I took away from her > what  she wanted – I stopped moving.  Made like a rock.  I didn’t talk > to her either. No attention and can’t go no where, bummer. The > moment the least became loose I started moving.  Yay! reward for a > loose leash. It took little effort beyond exercising a great deal of > patience.

Yes, indeed. You could spend weeks doing that STILL without teaching the dog to heel, because there’s no continuity, you aren’t giving any message to the dog about heeling, you aren’t commanding the dog’s attention, you’re not conditioning the dog to WANT to be near you… ALL you are doing is restraining the dog, and that might even make the situation worse. > Diane Blackman > http://www.dog-play.com/  http://www.dog-play.com/TOTE.html > Re: Jerry Howe http://www.dog-play.com/jerry.html > Falling short of a goal of "excellent" leaves room for "very good." > Falling short of a goal of "good enough" leaves only "not

good enough." Good. I’m glad to see I’m back in your sig file again. I’ll have to have a look-see to find out if it’s been updated nicely. Didn’t you say you don’t know enough about behavior and training to be able to clean up the lousy information on your web site? You’ve got a disclaimer to that effect. FUNNY HOWE you aren’t able to DISCERN good training information from bad on your crummy web site, and yet you come here and run your ignorant yap about things YOU ADMIT that you do not know enough about to EVEN DETERMINE GOOD INFORMATION from BAD… That’s just for STARTERS. I gather from a pryor post that your Oso won’t retrieve, but will chase critters. I presume that is the dog we’re talking about. So, you want to teach him to retrieve? And you are anxious to get into the ear pinch method of forced retrieve, rather than picking up that book and studying it to get an insight into what may be beneficial for getting Oso to enjoy retrieving? You even have another dog that happily does that behavior. You don’t suppose you could figure out some way to engage Oso at the same time you are getting some retrieves from the other dog? Ever heard of allelomimetic behavior? Or maybe you don’t believe in it, like your pal jean donaldson who doubts it’s existence? Perhaps that because as a trainer we believe we must take control. Control is etheric. A military coupe gets control, but the fighting may continue. The kind of control we should strive for is through compliance, because our subjects want to do everything we ask, the first time. Like in a good marriage. The both partners work harder at satisfying the other partners needs and desires, and there can never be an obstacle. The same foundation can be built with your dogs as with your mate or your child. Behavior is behavior, and how our behavior effects our relationships, dictates the success of those relationships. For all that you seem to know, you don’t seem to know or understand some of the most basic fundamentals of dogs or behavior, like motivation or reward. You think of rewards in terms of food, to appeal to your gut level instinct, where your character and personality are most comfortable, rather than the higher resources available, were you not grounded at a low level of consciousness. Your focus is on the micro, the act of manifesting a behavior, the minutia of making something happen. You overlook the most important aspects of dog behavior, and totally disregard and disrespect Nature. Canis55 tried to tell you about drive flows. You people totally misunderstood the use of them. The concept was too simple for your complex minds, and one of  the most easily accessed and valuable tools are overlooked. You have to think in more than one direction. We are working with a living, thinking, being, A WORKING PARTNER, not a piece of steel. Your focus should be to step back and examine how the retrieve fits into the normal consciousness of a dog, how the retrieve fits into the normal course of events in the dog’s instinct and life, and HOWE we can foster that. These factors allow the full spectrum of your dog’s thinking and instinct to be molded, to shape a particular behavior. Your desire to accomplish the end goal is so myopic, and your need for instant gratification so intense, that you complicate matters and make a  chore of getting the most from your dog, and subvert your efforts by compelling the dog to not WANT to participate. Sure, you may get him to do the retrieve against his will, but if you take your guard off of him, he may defect and not participate. That is why you are so strong on the idea of proofing and reliability. It equates to a lack of trust. Consistent, positive reinforcement and praise are the only effective tools that will teach your dog to do anything you ask because he WANTS to. Jerry. j;~}

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Yay, Raisin! Even better than Vitamin E for scar prevention and wound healing is emu oil.  I kid you not.  Git thee to a health-foods store. :) Tracy Landauer – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Now I am rubbing vitamin E into her. She’s allowed to WALK for 5 minutes at a > time. > How do I do dat? > Don’t say leash — she hasn’t yet learned not to pull, and shoves really hard > with her hind legs. Now isn’t a good time to do the ole > turn-around-and-go-the-other way trick. I don’t want to chance her falling. > She has two speeds — sleep and zoom. > Jane Webb >  & Moonpie & Raisin Pie

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Same way I loose leash trained Coda as well… Just stop moving, he got the idea really quickly, when I added the "Good walk w/ me"  (Which is the "code" for Loose leash walking) Now…I don’t even have to say "Walk!" here…I come home from work and by the time I get my dress shoes off and changed into jeans, the dogs are surrounding me, bouncing up & down!   When I grab their leashes, they practically start to hyperventilate!  *laugh* Sometimes when I’m trying to keep it more "low-key", I’ll leave the leashes in the back-seat of my car & grab them on the way….but sometimes this backfires, ’cause Guiness gets quick & tries to hop in before I get the door shut! Shelly, Coda & Guiness….

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->   Is the excitement of going for a WALK!! too much?  Mebbe she better > just mosey about the yard for a while?

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> Yay, Raisin! > Even better than Vitamin E for scar prevention and wound healing is emu > oil.  I kid you not.  Git thee to a health-foods store. :) > Tracy Landauer

Hey Tracy… Emu oil work for pregnancy stretch marks too?? (Not for me, mind you…just asking!)  *grin* Shelly, Coda & Guiness…

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Though I’ll never know on a personal experiential basis :) all of my kids will forever have 4 laigs!, ostensibly it could, I suppose.  I’ll ask my friend who raises emus and sells the oil. Tracy – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Yay, Raisin! > Even better than Vitamin E for scar prevention and wound healing is emu > oil.  I kid you not.  Git thee to a health-foods store. :) > Tracy Landauer > Hey Tracy… > Emu oil work for pregnancy stretch marks too?? > (Not for me, mind you…just asking!)  *grin* > Shelly, Coda & Guiness…

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> > Yay, Raisin! > Even better than Vitamin E for scar prevention and wound healing is emu > oil.  I kid you not.  Git thee to a health-foods store. :)

Went to a farm forum a couple of years ago at the new facility for the Snake River Stampede in Nampa, and saw LOTS of products from Emu’s and Ostrich’s. > Hey Tracy… > Emu oil work for pregnancy stretch marks too?? > (Not for me, mind you…just asking!)  *grin*

Can’t say for sure, *I* think it has to do with genetics, and skin elasticity, etc… but then, I’m always the cynic and skeptic. :) Terri BTW, congratulations Raisin-Pie! YourMom is in for a wild ride NOW! BG!

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Quote:  It took little effort beyond exercising a great deal of patience. Purty good. I do a good rock. Can’t have her pulling yet, though — too much strain on the hinder laigs. Got her a 4×4 Xpen. She can move around a little, and doesn’t have to hunch when she sits (her own crate is pretty small, with a big cushy pillow in it). Jane Webb  & Moonpie & Raisin Pie

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Quote:  Mebbe she better just mosey about the yard for a while? Don’t have a yard. WALK means outside — driveway and beside the drive are the only flat, non-tree-and-rock-filled places. That’s a walk. Too much excitement — zipmunks, deer, WIND blowing the grass — all sorts of stuff. Jane Webb  & Moonpie & Raisin Pie

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Quote: emu oil.  I kid you not. Have noticed when patting them, their fevvers are really greazy — oil from fevvers, or rendering down the — uh — emu’s person? Jane Webb  & Moonpie & Raisin Pie

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Dunno what the deal with that is.  I’ve got a friend who raises them in Georgia for the meat and the oil, and apparently the latter is more valuable at this point, as there are few plants in the U.S. that process the meat.  The oil has all sorts of emollient properties, he says.  I’ve used the oil on cuts ‘n stuff (on the dawgs, too), and am impressed. Tracy – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Quote: > emu > oil.  I kid you not. > Have noticed when patting them, their fevvers are really greazy — oil from > fevvers, or rendering down the — uh — emu’s person? > Jane Webb >  & Moonpie & Raisin Pie

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