Question:
Well silvertonguEd, Tell us about HANGING DOGS the koehler way? J>
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Of course you don’t have any answers about dog behavior, YOU ARE A > TROLL for cindymoron and pals… J>>> > Wrong again jer. You are really batting zero in the reading > comprehension department. > What a drag it must be to be you. > EdW > http://Petloss.com
Response:
Hello cindymoron, > I think if there was any last question in anyone’s mind that > you’re a sick, demented, babydoll, this would erase it. How > can you possibly consider the sort of filth Anonymous posted > as helpful in any way shape or form to your cause?
You got a lot of nerve. You twist and pinch dog’s ears and toes and choke and jerk and shock them, and YOU are complaining because someone has a foul mouth? Where were you when your pal lyingdodgdirty tells ladies that he can smell their stinking i’m not even going to go there… AND WHERE were YOU when YOUR PAL freaky frantik fraud die sent in XXX rated links, that my 12 year old nephew downloaded? AND WHERE were YOU when YOUR PAL freaky fraud die said ”Hey, Jerry’s NOW YOU TELL ME, you filthy, stinking, sick PIG> > I would have thought even you would find that too much.
Oh yeah? I’d have thunk that YOU’D be so EMBARRASSES BY NOW, that you’d crawl off under a damp, flat rock. > Yech.
You’re a phony. You’re a DOG ABUSER. Post your forced fetch page, you sick, demented, vile PIG. I recommend that all rpdb readers who have a disclaimer about Jerry Howe, BE WATCHED. Jerry Howe does NOT HURT dogs to train them. Those I accuse of ABUSING DOGS, tell you I hurt them. Why are they so FREAKED OUT? Because I am EXPOSING them. WHERE THERE’S SMOKE, THERE’S FIRE… J>>>
Response:
> Of course you don’t have any answers about dog behavior, YOU ARE A > TROLL for cindymoron and pals… J>>>
Wrong again jer. You are really batting zero in the reading comprehension department. What a drag it must be to be you. EdW http://Petloss.com
Response:
>vacated…or, if you’re like me, you keep doggie treats in the pocket of >your jeans and there’s a chance some crumbs might have fallen out! >I must say that it’s beginning to drive me nuts that every pocket I reach >into immediately jams several crumbs under my fingernails. :-)
Yup. And before I do laundry I have to check the pockets for leftovers. Although the other day I swore there were a few treats in the pocket, but when I checked the next a.m. when I was going to throw the jeans in the wash, the pockets were empty. Must be a thief in the house 
donna
Response:
Of course you don’t have any answers about dog behavior, YOU ARE A TROLL for cindymoron and pals… J>>>
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> It is best to totally ignore anything and everything jer says. > It seems that only reason he is here is to sell his mysterious > electronic dog zapping black box and to spew hate & lies at anyone who > even slightly disagrees with him. > You may have noticed that almost everyone here disagrees with him so > there is a LOT of hate spewing from him lately. > A side effect from all that hate burning in jer’s brain has been a > marked loss of reading comprehension. That is likely the reason his > answer has little if anything to do with your question. > I do not have an answer to the licking problem but I am sure there are > others here that can help. > EdW > http://Petloss.com > Okay, is it just me, or does this response make no sense for the question I > posted? "He" is going for my scent? At the very least, Jerry didn’t notice > Luna is a she. And if it were a scent thing, why wouldn’t my dog lick > anything that smelled like me, like my shoes and dirty clothes or my bed, > for example? And I never stated this as a "problem?" I just wondered if > anyone had ever heard of anything similar, and if so, if they had any > insight? I don’t get how this response relates to my
Response:
Lois E.
Response:
> Lois E.
You stupid old sow. THIS is what I said: Here’s what our respected friend and rpdb contributor amy dahl has to say about ear and toe pinching and twisting and BEATING DOGS WITH STICKS. TELL US YOU DON’T DO THE SAME THINGS, cindymoron…: Amy Dahl LIES with a straight face and says: >> I don’t beat dogs, twist ears, or pinch toes. > > http://www.oakhillkennel.com/library/force/force1.html > > http://www.oakhillkennel.com/library/force/force2.html???
Aren’t those YOUR OWN WORDS??? But YOU don’t DO THAT??? People, this is HOWE consistency works, and most particularly well with dogs, because here, the same methods are being used to INFLUENCE YOU, and YOU certainly are more intellectually capable of solving problems and have greater critical thinking skills than your dogs…, and these methods work on YOU> >> That article, reprinted from The Retriever Journal, is >> the words of my husband John and myself.
Meaning "We’ll share the credit, making it more credible??? Or we’ll share the blame, to mitigate our own individual responsibility and guilt…" YOU decide, it’s not my business where the blame falls. >> For the benefit of anyone who is in doubt, and who chooses >> not to read the article, there is NO mention in it of "twisting >> ears,"
From the text">>>" ">>>Now you are ready to progress to what most people think of as force-fetching: the ear pinch.>>> >>"but will squeal, thrash around, and direct their efforts to
escaping the ear pinch>>> >>You can press the dog’s ear with a shotshell instead of your
thumb;>>> >> even get a studded collar and pinch the ear against
that>>> >> Make the dog’s need to stop the pinching so urgent that
resisting your will fades in importance.>>> >>Say "fetch" while pressing the dummy against its lips and pinching
its ear.>>> >> if the dog still does not open its mouth, get out the shotshell.
Try pinching the ear between the metal casing and the collar, even the buckle on the collar. Persist! Eventually, the dog will give in>>>" Right… Didn’t lyingfrostydahly just deny all of that? There’s more… That was just a little about ear pinching, and no there was NO MENTION of twisting ears… cindy moore has all that information for you… Does it really matter? The semantics of whether we’re twisting or pinching or slapping or hitting or correcting or nicking instead of BURNING??? The only terminology that doesn’t have any NEAT euphemisms to take the CURSE off what our respected "trainers" actually MEAN (see definitions of punishment thread), is HANGING to REHABILITATE the dog, as ALL of our Koehler fans MUST endorse. Also notice the use of "it" for dog and "the" for him or YOUR DOG. That’s not coincidental, it’s all part of the psychologically and very cleverly designed DESENSITIZATION and MISINFORMATION necessary to REDUCE a good person to ACCEPT and DO HORRIBLE THINGS to dogs and TRYING to call ABUSE training. These are the subtle differences between being an expert dog trainer and some morally bankrupt vicious rotten abusive cretin that goes to jail for abusing dogs… But don’t lose interest now folks, there’s more… >> NO mention whatsoever of dogs’ toes in any context, >> and NO mention of "beating" dogs.
RIGHT… Perhaps cindymoron would be good enough to teach us more about the toe twist? We’ll ask her to address the toe pinch. lyingfrostydahly: ">>>Get a stick 30- or 40-inches long. You can have a helper wield the stick, or do it yourself. Tougher, less tractable dogs may require you to progress to striking them more sharply.>>> >> With your hand on the collar and ear, say, "fetch."
Immediately tap the dog on the hindquarters with the stick. Repeat "fetch" and pinch the ear all the way to the dummy. >>Repeat, varying how hard you hit the dog,>>>"
Wouldn’t you think that was despicable enough even just writing that, let alone risk suffering the embarrassment of not only having that attributed to yourself, but in fact denying your best work and PROVING YOURSELF A SHAMELESS LIAR AND ADVOCATE OF DOG ABUSE??? But it goes on… >> chuck (for the uninitiated, "chuck" means strike) the dog
under the chin with your ever-ready right hand while saying "No!">>> >>If the dog drops it, chuck (slap) it solidly under the chin, say
"No! Hold!" use a chuck (slap) under the chin or pinch its ear and place the dummy in its mouth.>>> >> If it doesn’t make rapid progress, you can increase the
pressure by requiring it to pick up the dropped dummy (stay on the ear until it does).>>> >>(perhaps because the ear is getting tender, or the dog has
decided it isn’t worth it).>>> pinch its ear and say, "fetch,">>> Here we have consistency and a plea for reason, directly in contradiction to the blackman and white facts signed and published by our expert trainer… Accordingly, the consistency of constant repetitions of your requests for understanding and compliance from your dogs, dictates that YOU WILL GET IT. So long as you are consistent and keep repeating the exact same scenario, no matter what… Including and especially when you calculatedly and intentionally deny the truth and make your requests seem reasonable, THEY EXPECT YOU TO BELIEVE that such behavior is NORMAL. > In our training we do not do any of these things, nor do we > advocate them to others.
See what I mean? Character, morals, ethics, integrity, human decency? 0.000%. Not a shred. She might have scored 0.001 had she NOT LIED ABOUT IT. >>"Any refusals are corrected with the ear pinch. When
performance is smooth, the stick can be added just as in the fetch from a sitting position. If the previous steps have been carefully done, the dog will soon be lunging eagerly for each dummy as soon as it sees it.>>> This is HOWE they get that happy excited working attitude that they all talk about… That’s their criteria for making their dogs happy, willing team mates…They BEAT IT INTO THE DOG. That’s WHY Jerry’s HIGH-STAKES challenge to frantik fraud die… His dog isn’t working, she’s AVOIDING GETTING BURNED…I’ll walk away with HIS national champion "protection" dog and show him up for the vicious loudmouth ignoramus he is. And there’s a jail cell waiting for cindy moore if she ever demonstrates HER forced fetch in front of A JURY composed of ANY DECENT human beings. > Jerry Howe has once again demonstrated his lack of > reading comprehension.
Right. Perhaps that’s because I get a little disturbed with all of the abuse, and I begin reading more into it than what the author intended???… >>"Slip an empty shotshell into your pocket before the next
session. As always, begin with some review. Then sit the dog. Take hold of its buckle collar and ear as follows. Slide the last three fingers of your left hand towards the dog’s head under the collar, and curl them over the collar to grasp it firmly. With your thumb and index finger, pull the dog’s left ear back over the collar (inside up) and hold it there gently. The "ear pinch" is administered by pressing with your thumbnail at the boundary between hair and bare skin (don’t pinch yet). Depending on the size and strength of your hands, you may want to press against the collar or against your index finger.>>> >>You want it to get the idea that the ear-pinch means,>>> If
the dog clenches its mouth shut, you may be in for another extended session. Keep pinching and press the dummy harder against the dog’s lips.>>> >>Repeat "fetch." Again, keep your voice calm. If several
minutes pass and>>> You don’t want the dog to think that it is "beating the pinch" Any time it is slow, pinch!>>> As mentioned previously, it is important not to establish a pattern of struggling with the dog physically. If you cannot physically restrain the dog, increasing the pressure may do the trick.>>> Be sure you are in position with your hold on collar and ear every time you give the command,">>> Here’s a couple MORE quotes from the links above, from our own respected Amy Dahl’s published text: >>"it transfers much of the momentum-producing power of the
ear pinch to the stick, thus providing a basis for force-on-back. you want to make the dog think that by going fast it can avoid the stick. >>> >> As it catches on, try using the stick and no ear pinch.
When the dog is digging out to beat the stick and seems totally reliable without any ear pinch, you are finished>>> No, YOU’RE FINISHED. You AND YOUR PALS. >> This is continued resistance to your increasing authority,
and the job is not done until it is overcome. we do not recommend that inexperienced trainers use this heavy-handed approach.>>> >> Amy Frost Dahl Retriever Training phone: (910) 295-6710 >> Pinehurst, NC 28370
Lets move on, and get this past us. This should be totally ignored, and everyone can forget all about it, like it doesn’t happen… That’s what these people are trying to get you to believe, and that’s what all the commotion is about… Please do not quote my messages in their entirety, because it may be upsetting to others with weak stomachs and human conscience… ">>>and pinch its ear if a dummy or bird is ever dropped. While force-fetching is now complete, training has become more varied and interesting and we are sure you will want to continue.>>>" I don’t think that YOU people are going to WANT TO CONTINUE before I’M done with you… Bye, bye!!! J>>>
Response:
Lois E.
Response:
One of mine likes to lik my feet & lower legs as I get out of the shower. MMMmmmmm, soapy feet! Maybe the chair-licking thing has something to do with the body warmth…you know how hot a chair feels when you sit in a chair somebody else has just vacated…or, if you’re like me, you keep doggie treats in the pocket of your jeans and there’s a chance some crumbs might have fallen out! donna
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->I have a 2 yr. old Siberian husky who has what I consider to be a very odd >habit. Whenever I get out of a chair, she likes to go lick the seat of the >chair I just left, for seemingly no reason. No reason I can determine >anyway. It doesn’t seem to matter what kind of chair it is; she does it to >any chair I exit, be it my leather office chair at the computer desk, or the >upholestered couch or one of the oak kitchen chairs, so I don’t think it’s >just a texture thing. And it’s only chairs *I* leave; I’ve never seen her >lick chairs my husband or guests get out of. I’m not really concerned about >it or anything because she never chews the chairs or does any damage, she >just likes to lick them for a minute so it’s harmless, except that sometimes >I sit back down in a damp chair, which isn’t really pleasant. I’m just very >curious if anyone else has ever heard of anything similar, and if so, do you >know why a dog might do this? She also likes to lick my shins from the knee >down, which is a little more annoying. Is this similar to the hand licking >things dogs like to do to those who have salty palms? >Thanks, >Chelle
Response:
wassamatter jer…..getting a little frantic again? Jumping into every thread and not getting anywhere…..one might even believe you are…….demented. Lois E.
Response:
> wassamatter jer…..getting a little frantic again? Jumping into every > thread and not getting anywhere…..one might even believe you > are…….demented. > Lois E.
This is WHAT YOUR PALS DO: Does anybody know HOWE a dog sounds when he’s SQUEALING because his ears or toes are being pinched and twisted? Cindy moore does. Ask her. She’ll tell you she doesn’t twist? She’ll tell you she doesn’t hurt? She’ll tell you that FEAR, FORCE, AND PUNISHMENT is necessary for ALL "ADVANCED TRAINING", to enhance the bond between "trainer" and dog and achieve the higher aspects of obedience through TWISTING and PINCHING EARS and TOES, and BEATING DOGS WITH STICKS… Let’s hear cindy moore and pals SQUEAL for a change. Ask her about the toe hitch. Ask her about "table work." Ask her why she HURTS dogs, and calls that training? Ask her why she WON’T answer these questions like her pal lyingfrostydahly did below, when she EARNED HER LYING TITLE??? Here’s what our respected amy dahl has to say about ear and toe pinching and twisting and BEATING DOGS WITH STICKS. TELL US YOU DON’T DO THE SAME THINGS, cindymoron…: Here’s what our respected friend and rpdb contributor amy dahl has to say about ear and toe pinching and twisting and BEATING DOGS WITH STICKS. TELL US YOU DON’T DO THE SAME THINGS, cindymoron…: Amy Dahl LIES with a straight face and says: >> I don’t beat dogs, twist ears, or pinch toes. > > http://www.oakhillkennel.com/library/force/force1.html > > http://www.oakhillkennel.com/library/force/force2.html???
Aren’t those YOUR OWN WORDS??? But YOU don’t DO THAT??? People, this is HOWE consistency works, and most particularly well with dogs, because here, the same methods are being used to INFLUENCE YOU, and YOU certainly are more intellectually capable of solving problems and have greater critical thinking skills than your dogs…, and these methods work on YOU> >> That article, reprinted from The Retriever Journal, is >> the words of my husband John and myself.
Meaning "We’ll share the credit, making it more credible??? Or we’ll share the blame, to mitigate our own individual responsibility and guilt…" YOU decide, it’s not my business where the blame falls. >> For the benefit of anyone who is in doubt, and who chooses >> not to read the article, there is NO mention in it of "twisting >> ears,"
From the text">>>" ">>>Now you are ready to progress to what most people think of as force-fetching: the ear pinch.>>> >>"but will squeal, thrash around, and direct their efforts to
escaping the ear pinch>>> >>You can press the dog’s ear with a shotshell instead of your
thumb;>>> >> even get a studded collar and pinch the ear against
that>>> >> Make the dog’s need to stop the pinching so urgent that
resisting your will fades in importance.>>> >>Say "fetch" while pressing the dummy against its lips and pinching
its ear.>>> >> if the dog still does not open its mouth, get out the shotshell.
Try pinching the ear between the metal casing and the collar, even the buckle on the collar. Persist! Eventually, the dog will give in>>>" Right… Didn’t lyingfrostydahly just deny all of that? There’s more… That was just a little about ear pinching, and no there was NO MENTION of twisting ears… cindy moore has all that information for you… Does it really matter? The semantics of whether we’re twisting or pinching or slapping or hitting or correcting or nicking instead of BURNING??? The only terminology that doesn’t have any NEAT euphemisms to take the CURSE off what our respected "trainers" actually MEAN (see definitions of punishment thread), is HANGING to REHABILITATE the dog, as ALL of our Koehler fans MUST endorse. Also notice the use of "it" for dog and "the" for him or YOUR DOG. That’s not coincidental, it’s all part of the psychologically and very cleverly designed DESENSITIZATION and MISINFORMATION necessary to REDUCE a good person to ACCEPT and DO HORRIBLE THINGS to dogs and TRYING to call ABUSE training. These are the subtle differences between being an expert dog trainer and some morally bankrupt vicious rotten abusive cretin that goes to jail for abusing dogs… But don’t lose interest now folks, there’s more… >> NO mention whatsoever of dogs’ toes in any context, >> and NO mention of "beating" dogs.
RIGHT… Perhaps cindymoron would be good enough to teach us more about the toe twist? We’ll ask her to address the toe pinch. lyingfrostydahly: ">>>Get a stick 30- or 40-inches long. You can have a helper wield the stick, or do it yourself. Tougher, less tractable dogs may require you to progress to striking them more sharply.>>> >> With your hand on the collar and ear, say, "fetch."
Immediately tap the dog on the hindquarters with the stick. Repeat "fetch" and pinch the ear all the way to the dummy. >>Repeat, varying how hard you hit the dog,>>>"
Wouldn’t you think that was despicable enough even just writing that, let alone risk suffering the embarrassment of not only having that attributed to yourself, but in fact denying your best work and PROVING YOURSELF A SHAMELESS LIAR AND ADVOCATE OF DOG ABUSE??? But it goes on… >> chuck (for the uninitiated, "chuck" means strike) the dog
under the chin with your ever-ready right hand while saying "No!">>> >>If the dog drops it, chuck (slap) it solidly under the chin, say
"No! Hold!" use a chuck (slap) under the chin or pinch its ear and place the dummy in its mouth.>>> >> If it doesn’t make rapid progress, you can increase the
pressure by requiring it to pick up the dropped dummy (stay on the ear until it does).>>> >>(perhaps because the ear is getting tender, or the dog has
decided it isn’t worth it).>>> pinch its ear and say, "fetch,">>> Here we have consistency and a plea for reason, directly in contradiction to the blackman and white facts signed and published by our expert trainer… Accordingly, the consistency of constant repetitions of your requests for understanding and compliance from your dogs, dictates that YOU WILL GET IT. So long as you are consistent and keep repeating the exact same scenario, no matter what… Including and especially when you calculatedly and intentionally deny the truth and make your requests seem reasonable, THEY EXPECT YOU TO BELIEVE that such behavior is NORMAL. > In our training we do not do any of these things, nor do we > advocate them to others.
See what I mean? Character, morals, ethics, integrity, human decency? 0.000%. Not a shred. She might have scored 0.001 had she NOT LIED ABOUT IT. >>"Any refusals are corrected with the ear pinch. When
performance is smooth, the stick can be added just as in the fetch from a sitting position. If the previous steps have been carefully done, the dog will soon be lunging eagerly for each dummy as soon as it sees it.>>> This is HOWE they get that happy excited working attitude that they all talk about… That’s their criteria for making their dogs happy, willing team mates…They BEAT IT INTO THE DOG. That’s WHY Jerry’s HIGH-STAKES challenge to frantik fraud die… His dog isn’t working, she’s AVOIDING GETTING BURNED…I’ll walk away with HIS national champion "protection" dog and show him up for the vicious loudmouth ignoramus he is. And there’s a jail cell waiting for cindy moore if she ever demonstrates HER forced fetch in front of A JURY composed of ANY DECENT human beings. > Jerry Howe has once again demonstrated his lack of > reading comprehension.
Right. Perhaps that’s because I get a little disturbed with all of the abuse, and I begin reading more into it than what the author intended???… >>"Slip an empty shotshell into your pocket before the next
session. As always, begin with some review. Then sit the dog. Take hold of its buckle collar and ear as follows. Slide the last three fingers of your left hand towards the dog’s head under the collar, and curl them over the collar to grasp it firmly. With your thumb and index finger, pull the dog’s left ear back over the collar (inside up) and hold it there gently. The "ear pinch" is administered by pressing with your thumbnail at the boundary between hair and bare skin (don’t pinch yet). Depending on the size and strength of your hands, you may want to press against the collar or against your index finger.>>> >>You want it to get the idea that the ear-pinch means,>>> If
the dog clenches its mouth shut, you may be in for another extended session. Keep pinching and press the dummy harder against the dog’s lips.>>> >>Repeat "fetch." Again, keep your voice calm. If several
minutes pass and>>> You don’t want the dog to think that it is "beating the pinch" Any time it is slow, pinch!>>> As mentioned previously, it is important not to establish a pattern of struggling with the dog physically. If you cannot physically restrain the dog, increasing the pressure may do the trick.>>> Be sure you are in position with your hold on collar and ear every time you give the command,">>> Here’s a couple MORE quotes from the links above, from our own respected Amy Dahl’s published text: >>"it transfers much of the momentum-producing power of the
ear pinch to the stick, thus providing a basis for force-on-back. you want to make the dog think that by going fast it can avoid the stick. >>> >> As it catches on, try using the stick and no ear pinch.
When the dog is digging out to beat the stick and seems totally reliable without any ear pinch, you are finished>>> No, YOU’RE FINISHED. You AND YOUR PALS. >> This is continued resistance to your increasing authority,
and the job is not done until it is overcome. we do not recommend that inexperienced trainers use this heavy-handed approach.>>> – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->> Amy Frost Dahl Retriever Training phone: (910)
… read more »
Response:
Response:
Try again, you stupid Sow: Hello lyinglois, For the record, you are a proven liar, the second person here to EARN the lying title…An amazing feat, because you aren’t even a dog trainer, and therefore have NO VALUE to ME as an opponent, YOU are simply a pawn in a war you don’t even understand. You are cannon fodder. Here’s what YOU don’t want copied in responses to my posts: Right, lyingfrostydahly: ">>>Get a stick 30- or 40-inches long. You can have a helper wield the stick, or do it yourself. Tougher, less tractable dogs may require you to progress to striking them more sharply.>>> With your hand on the collar and ear, say, "fetch." Immediately tap the dog on the hindquarters with the stick. Repeat "fetch" and pinch the ear all the way to the dummy. Repeat, varying how hard you hit the dog,>>>" ">>>Now you are ready to progress to what most people think of as force-fetching: the ear pinch.>>> "but will squeal, thrash around, and direct their efforts to escaping the ear pinch>>> You can press the dog’s ear with a shotshell instead of your thumb;>>> even get a studded collar and pinch the ear against that>>> Make the dog’s need to stop the pinching so urgent that resisting your will fades in importance.>>> Say "fetch" while pressing the dummy against its lips and pinching its ear.>>> the dog still does not open its mouth, get out the shotshell. Try pinching the ear between the metal casing and the collar, even the buckle on the collar. Persist! Eventually, the dog will give in>>>" >>> chuck (for the uninitiated, "chuck" means strike) the dog under the chin with your ever-ready right hand while saying "No!">>> If the dog drops it, chuck it solidly under the chin, say "No! Hold!">>> use a chuck under the chin or pinch its ear and place the dummy in its mouth. If it doesn’t make rapid progress, you can increase the pressure by requiring it to pick up the dropped dummy (stay on the ear until it does).>>> (perhaps because the ear is getting tender, or the dog has decided it isn’t worth it).>>> pinch its ear and say, "fetch,">>> Here we have consistency and a plea for reason, directly in contradiction to the blackman and white facts signed and published by our expert trainer… Accordingly, the consistency of constant repetitions of your requests for understanding and compliance from your dogs, dictates that YOU WILL GET IT, so long as you are consistent and keep repeating the exact same scenario, no matter what… Including and especially when you calculatedly and intentionally deny the truth and make your requests seem reasonable. > In our training we do not do any of these things, nor do we > advocate them to others.
"Any refusals are corrected with the ear pinch. When performance is smooth, the stick can be added just as in the fetch from a sitting position. If the previous steps have been carefully done, the dog will soon be lunging eagerly for each dummy as soon as it sees it. This is HOWE they get that happy excited working attitude that they all talk about… That’s their criteria for making their dogs happy, willing team mates… > Jerry Howe has once again demonstrated his lack of > reading comprehension.
Right. Perhaps that’s because I get a little disturbed with all of the abuse, and I begin reading more into it than what the author intended???… "Slip an empty shotshell into your pocket before the next session. As always, begin with some review. Then sit the dog. Take hold of its buckle collar and ear as follows. Slide the last three fingers of your left hand towards the dog’s head under the collar, and curl them over the collar to grasp it firmly. With your thumb and index finger, pull the dog’s left ear back over the collar (inside up) and hold it there gently. The "ear pinch" is administered by pressing with your thumbnail at the boundary between hair and bare skin (don’t pinch yet). Depending on the size and strength of your hands, you may want to press against the collar or against your index finger.>>>You want it to get the idea that the ear-pinch means,>>> If the dog clenches its mouth shut, you may be in for another extended session. Keep pinching and press the dummy harder against the dog’s lips. Repeat "fetch." Again, keep your voice calm. If several minutes pass and>>> You want the dog to think that it is "beating the pinch" Any time it is slow, pinch!>>> As mentioned previously, it is important not to establish a pattern of struggling with the dog physically. If you cannot physically restrain the dog, increasing the pressure may do the trick.>>> Be sure you are in position with your hold on collar and ear every time you give the command," Here’s a couple MORE quotes from the links above, from our own respected Amy Dahl’s published text: "it transfers much of the momentum-producing power of the ear pinch to the stick, thus providing a basis for force-on-back. you want to make the dog think that by going fast it can avoid the stick. >>> As it catches on, try using the stick and no ear pinch. When the dog is digging out to beat the stick and seems totally reliable without any ear pinch, you are finished>>> This is continued resistance to your increasing authority, and the job is not done until it is overcome.we do not recommend that inexperienced trainers use this heavy-handed approach. > — > Amy Frost Dahl Retriever Training phone: (910) 295-6710 > Pinehurst, NC 28370
Lets move on, and get this past us. This should be totally ignored, and everyone can forget all about it, like it doesn’t happen… That’s what these people are trying to get you to believe, and that’s what all the commotion is about… Please do not quote my messages in their entirety, because it may be upsetting to others with weak stomachs and human conscience… ">>>and pinch its ear if a dummy or bird is ever dropped. While force-fetching is now complete, training has become more varied and interesting and we are sure you will want to continue.>>>" I don’t think so… Bye, bye, lyingfrostydahly!!! J>>>
Response:
Excellent post, Anonymous. Stick around, we need a yin for the yang of lyingdogdirty. BALANCE IN EVERYTHING. PERFECT. J>>>
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->>Thanks, Anonymous. >>I was trying to be GENTEEL, but you summed it up. J> >I think if there was any last question in anyone’s mind that you’re a >sick, demented, babydoll, this would erase it. How can you possibly >consider the sort of filth Anonymous posted as helpful in any way >shape or form to your cause? I would have thought even you would >find that too much. >Yech. > Don’t be so huffy you dumb bitch. I just answered the doofuses > question. I didn’t use any words your hero Dogman doesn’t use when he > insults people. Jerry is my hero. He tries to help people. You just > yell and scream at him when he does. Go wash your hands. > Mr. Helper
Response:
> One favor please….if you respond to one of his posts, could you please > snip out most of his crap? The rest of us don’t care to read him once, much > less twice. Welcome to the group. > Lois E.
Hello lyinglois, For the record, you are a proven liar, the second person here to EARN the lying title…An amazing feat, because you aren’t even a dog trainer, and therefore have NO VALUE to ME as an opponent, YOU are simply a pawn in a war you don’t even understand. You are cannon fodder. Here’s what YOU don’t want copied in responses to my posts: Right, lyingfrostydahly: ">>>Get a stick 30- or 40-inches long. You can have a helper wield the stick, or do it yourself. Tougher, less tractable dogs may require you to progress to striking them more sharply.>>> With your hand on the collar and ear, say, "fetch." Immediately tap the dog on the hindquarters with the stick. Repeat "fetch" and pinch the ear all the way to the dummy. Repeat, varying how hard you hit the dog,>>>" ">>>Now you are ready to progress to what most people think of as force-fetching: the ear pinch.>>> "but will squeal, thrash around, and direct their efforts to escaping the ear pinch>>> You can press the dog’s ear with a shotshell instead of your thumb;>>> even get a studded collar and pinch the ear against that>>> Make the dog’s need to stop the pinching so urgent that resisting your will fades in importance.>>> Say "fetch" while pressing the dummy against its lips and pinching its ear.>>> the dog still does not open its mouth, get out the shotshell. Try pinching the ear between the metal casing and the collar, even the buckle on the collar. Persist! Eventually, the dog will give in>>>" >>> chuck (for the uninitiated, "chuck" means strike) the dog under the chin with your ever-ready right hand while saying "No!">>> If the dog drops it, chuck it solidly under the chin, say "No! Hold!">>> use a chuck under the chin or pinch its ear and place the dummy in its mouth. If it doesn’t make rapid progress, you can increase the pressure by requiring it to pick up the dropped dummy (stay on the ear until it does).>>> (perhaps because the ear is getting tender, or the dog has decided it isn’t worth it).>>> pinch its ear and say, "fetch,">>> Here we have consistency and a plea for reason, directly in contradiction to the blackman and white facts signed and published by our expert trainer… Accordingly, the consistency of constant repetitions of your requests for understanding and compliance from your dogs, dictates that YOU WILL GET IT, so long as you are consistent and keep repeating the exact same scenario, no matter what… Including and especially when you calculatedly and intentionally deny the truth and make your requests seem reasonable. > In our training we do not do any of these things, nor do we > advocate them to others.
"Any refusals are corrected with the ear pinch. When performance is smooth, the stick can be added just as in the fetch from a sitting position. If the previous steps have been carefully done, the dog will soon be lunging eagerly for each dummy as soon as it sees it. This is HOWE they get that happy excited working attitude that they all talk about… That’s their criteria for making their dogs happy, willing team mates… > Jerry Howe has once again demonstrated his lack of > reading comprehension.
Right. Perhaps that’s because I get a little disturbed with all of the abuse, and I begin reading more into it than what the author intended???… "Slip an empty shotshell into your pocket before the next session. As always, begin with some review. Then sit the dog. Take hold of its buckle collar and ear as follows. Slide the last three fingers of your left hand towards the dog’s head under the collar, and curl them over the collar to grasp it firmly. With your thumb and index finger, pull the dog’s left ear back over the collar (inside up) and hold it there gently. The "ear pinch" is administered by pressing with your thumbnail at the boundary between hair and bare skin (don’t pinch yet). Depending on the size and strength of your hands, you may want to press against the collar or against your index finger.>>>You want it to get the idea that the ear-pinch means,>>> If the dog clenches its mouth shut, you may be in for another extended session. Keep pinching and press the dummy harder against the dog’s lips. Repeat "fetch." Again, keep your voice calm. If several minutes pass and>>> You want the dog to think that it is "beating the pinch" Any time it is slow, pinch!>>> As mentioned previously, it is important not to establish a pattern of struggling with the dog physically. If you cannot physically restrain the dog, increasing the pressure may do the trick.>>> Be sure you are in position with your hold on collar and ear every time you give the command," Here’s a couple MORE quotes from the links above, from our own respected Amy Dahl’s published text: "it transfers much of the momentum-producing power of the ear pinch to the stick, thus providing a basis for force-on-back. you want to make the dog think that by going fast it can avoid the stick. >>> As it catches on, try using the stick and no ear pinch. When the dog is digging out to beat the stick and seems totally reliable without any ear pinch, you are finished>>> This is continued resistance to your increasing authority, and the job is not done until it is overcome.we do not recommend that inexperienced trainers use this heavy-handed approach. > — > Amy Frost Dahl Retriever Training phone: (910) 295-6710 > Pinehurst, NC 28370
Lets move on, and get this past us. This should be totally ignored, and everyone can forget all about it, like it doesn’t happen… That’s what these people are trying to get you to believe, and that’s what all the commotion is about… Please do not quote my messages in their entirety, because it may be upsetting to others with weak stomachs and human conscience… ">>>and pinch its ear if a dummy or bird is ever dropped. While force-fetching is now complete, training has become more varied and interesting and we are sure you will want to continue.>>>" I don’t think so… Bye, bye, lyingfrostydahly!!! J>>>
Response:
>>Thanks, Anonymous. >I was trying to be GENTEEL, but you summed it up. J> >I think if there was any last question in anyone’s mind that you’re a >sick, demented, babydoll, this would erase it. How can you possibly >consider the sort of filth Anonymous posted as helpful in any way >shape or form to your cause? I would have thought even you would >find that too much. >Yech.
Don’t be so huffy you dumb bitch. I just answered the doofuses question. I didn’t use any words your hero Dogman doesn’t use when he insults people. Jerry is my hero. He tries to help people. You just yell and scream at him when he does. Go wash your hands. Mr. Helper
Response:
Thanks, Anonymous. I was trying to be GENTEEL, but you summed it up. J>
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Okay, is it just me, or does this response make no sense for the > question I >posted? "He" is going for my scent? At the very least, Jerry didn’t > notice >Luna is a she. And if it were a scent thing, why wouldn’t my dog lick >anything that smelled like me, like my shoes and dirty clothes or my > bed, >for example? And I never stated this as a "problem?" I just wondered > if >anyone had ever heard of anything similar, and if so, if they had any > Jerry H. was just trying to be of some help to you. He had no idea > that you were going to be such a bitch about your own personal > problem. I will help him and you out by answering your stupid > question. > The reason your dog licks where you sit is because of all those long > lonely nights when the dog licks your smelly cunt in exchange for > doggy treats. The doggy is just out for more treats. > The doggy also licks your hands because you are always scratrching > ‘your smelly cunt with your hands and not washing up afterwards. > Simple, eh? > Its not just a scent thng. It requires that you give treats to the > doggy for his personal services. Watch to see if the doggy licks > anybody else. If it does that means he is servicing them too. > Mr. Helper >>Hello Chelle, >>He is going after your scent. It should be easy to break the habit >>using sound distraction and praise. >>Using this technique is the easiest and fastest way to break any >>behavior. There are a number of things that have to be considered >>when beginning this approach. A few preliminary exercises in the >>Wits’ End Dog Training Method manual available at: >>http://www.doggydoright.com will explain the basic handling >>techniques you should learn. Using them will insure that the method >>will work to a high degree of proficiency. >>The problem is that not many people understand how to use the sound >>distraction and praise techniques correctly. When you are told that >>it has been tried and didn’t work, rest assured that whomever > "tried" >>it and for whom it did not work, did not "try" doing it correctly. >>I often hear the "experts" here saying they’ve tried it, and it >>didn’t work for them, or it made their dog nervous. There are people >>that do not follow directions and get lousy results, and there are >>people that do not allow the technique adequate repetition to be >>successful. Those problems will occur if the technique is not done >>precisely. There is no excuse that these techniques will not work if >>done correctly, they are a scientific fact. >>Any sound will suffice. Ideally, the sound would be the same each >>time, but that is not often possible. A single clap of the hands or >>snap of the fingers would do, if it were followed by praise, and as >>long as it does not happen twice in succession from the same point > of >>origin. That’s why several cans are required. You cannot use the > same >>can for more than two occasions in succession. The sound must always >>be accompanied with praise. The sound must never occur from the same >>point of origin twice in succession. The sound must be brief. The >>praise must continue constantly for several seconds following the >>sound to allow the thought process to be completed. The behavior > must >>be allowed or made to be repeated and interrupted using sound and >>praise until the behavior is broken. And most importantly, the >>moment the dog thinks of resuming the behavior, you must praise him. >>That’s right. When the dog thinks about resuming the behavior, if > you >>praise him at that exact moment, the previous corrections will be >>restimulated in the dogs mind, and the >>behavior will be extinguished. >>That seems to be the real hard part for the trainers here to >>understand. They want to make it happen, and they interfere with the >>dogs thought process. The dog will learn through the process of >>elimination of alternative actions or behaviors. It takes a few >>minutes, and the behavior is eliminated, rather than repressed and >>seething to resume. >>The trainer will confound his efforts when they insist on telling > the >>dog NO!, instead of relying on the conditioning that has been >>established. Shouting at the dog will often trigger the opposite of >>the desired effect. What further complicates the process for the >>trainer, is that they break the conditioning when they respond with > a >>different corrective technique out of a reflexive reaction of their >>own, such as screaming No!, or reaching out to grab the dog and >>physically correcting the dog for a further instance of malbehavior, >>rather than taking the moment to think about the best way to address >>the problem, and if necessary search for a can and follow through >>with the appropriate sound and praise. >>The process must be carried out using an alternate source of sound >>for the next interruption. An associate could be enlisted and >>instructed to clap their hands on signal to accomplish the desired >>sound interruption. We want the dog to exhaust all of the > alternative >>malbehaviors he can pull out of his bag of tricks, in order for us > to >>extinguish them each in turn. >>Any time we interact in a behavior by telling the dog no, or >>physically restrain or correct him, we are becoming part of the >>behavior, either as a player or competitor in the dogs mischief. >>Using sound as a distraction must always be followed by immediate, >>prolonged, non physical praise. Interrupting a behavior with sound >>should never be associated with us, as in voicing no, or telling the >>dog to stop it. >>The behavior should not be distracted with any intervention. We want >>the behavior to begin again, so that we may have another opportunity >>to properly address the behavior with another sound and praise. >>That way, we can completely end a problem while the dog is thinking >>about it, and we are prepared to address the issue before it becomes >>out of control. The sound must never occur twice in a row from the >>same direction. >>In other words, if you snapped your fingers in front of the dog to >>stop him from chewing on your shoelace, you’d praise him for five to >>fifteen seconds immediately upon snapping your fingers. >>The behavior will hopefully resume, and the next sound of the snap > of >>your fingers must come from behind the dog, or even from a friend >>assisting from across the room, from a soda can with a few pennies > in >>it, or any source of sound (except our voice!), followed by > prolonged >>non physical praise, until the dog is no longer thinking about the >>behavior or resumes it. >>The third interruption of the behavior usually gets the message >>across, and the dog will think about the behavior for just a moment >>before engaging in it once again for the fourth and last time… > That >>split second thinking about engaging in the behavior requires > praise. >>Do not react to it with a challenge of shouting no, or physically >>removing the >>temptation. >>That moment of thinking about resuming the behavior and the praise > it >>earns him will validate the prior interruptions of that behavior. >>The dog then needs to test it out, to be sure that the same behavior >>will be dealt with in exactly the same manner. They will usually > make >>a fourth attempt at the behavior, and if you follow through >>appropriately, he will learn not to do that behavior anymore. But >>only on the one shoelace! He must take that behavior to other >>instances to fully cease the desire for the behavior. >>The behavior will not be completely broken until he has taken the >>process of elimination to the second, third, and fourth opportunity >>to explore that behavior. And, even at that, you may need to repeat >>the process in four completely different places. That means that the >>worst behavior may need up to sixty-four properly timed > interruptions >>and praise. Usually it happens much quicker than that. >>Breaking a behavior in this manner reduces stress, takes us out of >>the position of negative enforcer or competitor or playmate, and >>allows the dog to extinguish a behavior because he simply doesn’t > get >>any satisfaction from it. The other secret is giving the dog a > payoff >>for every time they look at you. Each time you notice eye contact >>from your dog, you must praise him verbally, to prevent his idle > mind >>from doing the devils work. >>;-) DRAINING THE SWAMP, AND RELOCATING THE >>GATORS… J>>> >>"CUSTOM WILL RECONCILE PEOPLE TO ANY >>ATROCITY." G.B. Shaw. >>"I know that most men, including those at ease with problems >>of the greatest complexity, can seldom accept even the >>simplest and most obvious truth if it would oblige them to >>admit the falsity of conclusions which they have delighted in >>explaining to colleagues, proudly taught to others, and which >>they have woven, thread by thread, into the fabric of their >>lives." >> Leo Tolstoy >>Is it any wonder that the following sig file has generated more >>complaints to my personal email than any other controversial >>post I have made to date, bar none?: >> caveat >>If you have to do things to your dog to train him, that you would >>rather not have to do, then you shouldn’t be doing
… read more »
Response:
> >It is best to totally ignore anything and everything jer says. > …or the "help" that he attracts… 
> feeling a vague urge to wash my hands… > —
http://www.k9web.com/dog-faqs/ ***** > WAGGERY U-CD Terrell’s Chocolate Deduction CGC CDX JH–Hershe LABRADORS > ——- Delby’s Wood Nymph at Waggery JH WC
> KT’s Before the Mast–Dana > *** Southern California Lab Rescue: http://www.sclrr.org/ ***
As long as you’re going to wash your hands, you might as well find some puppies to stuff your greasy fingers down their throats. J>>>
Response:
It is best to totally ignore anything and everything jer says. It seems that only reason he is here is to sell his mysterious electronic dog zapping black box and to spew hate & lies at anyone who even slightly disagrees with him. You may have noticed that almost everyone here disagrees with him so there is a LOT of hate spewing from him lately. A side effect from all that hate burning in jer’s brain has been a marked loss of reading comprehension. That is likely the reason his answer has little if anything to do with your question. I do not have an answer to the licking problem but I am sure there are others here that can help. EdW http://Petloss.com – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Okay, is it just me, or does this response make no sense for the question I > posted? "He" is going for my scent? At the very least, Jerry didn’t notice > Luna is a she. And if it were a scent thing, why wouldn’t my dog lick > anything that smelled like me, like my shoes and dirty clothes or my bed, > for example? And I never stated this as a "problem?" I just wondered if > anyone had ever heard of anything similar, and if so, if they had any
Response:
> Okay, is it just me, or does this response make no sense for the question I >posted? "He" is going for my scent? At the very least, Jerry didn’t notice >Luna is a she. And if it were a scent thing, why wouldn’t my dog lick >anything that smelled like me, like my shoes and dirty clothes or my bed, >for example? And I never stated this as a "problem?" I just wondered if >anyone had ever heard of anything similar, and if so, if they had any
Jerry H. was just trying to be of some help to you. He had no idea that you were going to be such a bitch about your own personal problem. I will help him and you out by answering your stupid question. The reason your dog licks where you sit is because of all those long lonely nights when the dog licks your smelly cunt in exchange for doggy treats. The doggy is just out for more treats. The doggy also licks your hands because you are always scratrching ‘your smelly cunt with your hands and not washing up afterwards. Simple, eh? Its not just a scent thng. It requires that you give treats to the doggy for his personal services. Watch to see if the doggy licks anybody else. If it does that means he is servicing them too. Mr. Helper – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Hello Chelle, >He is going after your scent. It should be easy to break the habit >using sound distraction and praise. >Using this technique is the easiest and fastest way to break any >behavior. There are a number of things that have to be considered >when beginning this approach. A few preliminary exercises in the >Wits’ End Dog Training Method manual available at: >http://www.doggydoright.com will explain the basic handling >techniques you should learn. Using them will insure that the method >will work to a high degree of proficiency. >The problem is that not many people understand how to use the sound >distraction and praise techniques correctly. When you are told that >it has been tried and didn’t work, rest assured that whomever "tried" >it and for whom it did not work, did not "try" doing it correctly. >I often hear the "experts" here saying they’ve tried it, and it >didn’t work for them, or it made their dog nervous. There are people >that do not follow directions and get lousy results, and there are >people that do not allow the technique adequate repetition to be >successful. Those problems will occur if the technique is not done >precisely. There is no excuse that these techniques will not work if >done correctly, they are a scientific fact. >Any sound will suffice. Ideally, the sound would be the same each >time, but that is not often possible. A single clap of the hands or >snap of the fingers would do, if it were followed by praise, and as >long as it does not happen twice in succession from the same point of >origin. That’s why several cans are required. You cannot use the same >can for more than two occasions in succession. The sound must always >be accompanied with praise. The sound must never occur from the same >point of origin twice in succession. The sound must be brief. The >praise must continue constantly for several seconds following the >sound to allow the thought process to be completed. The behavior must >be allowed or made to be repeated and interrupted using sound and >praise until the behavior is broken. And most importantly, the >moment the dog thinks of resuming the behavior, you must praise him. >That’s right. When the dog thinks about resuming the behavior, if you >praise him at that exact moment, the previous corrections will be >restimulated in the dogs mind, and the >behavior will be extinguished. >That seems to be the real hard part for the trainers here to >understand. They want to make it happen, and they interfere with the >dogs thought process. The dog will learn through the process of >elimination of alternative actions or behaviors. It takes a few >minutes, and the behavior is eliminated, rather than repressed and >seething to resume. >The trainer will confound his efforts when they insist on telling the >dog NO!, instead of relying on the conditioning that has been >established. Shouting at the dog will often trigger the opposite of >the desired effect. What further complicates the process for the >trainer, is that they break the conditioning when they respond with a >different corrective technique out of a reflexive reaction of their >own, such as screaming No!, or reaching out to grab the dog and >physically correcting the dog for a further instance of malbehavior, >rather than taking the moment to think about the best way to address >the problem, and if necessary search for a can and follow through >with the appropriate sound and praise. >The process must be carried out using an alternate source of sound >for the next interruption. An associate could be enlisted and >instructed to clap their hands on signal to accomplish the desired >sound interruption. We want the dog to exhaust all of the alternative >malbehaviors he can pull out of his bag of tricks, in order for us to >extinguish them each in turn. >Any time we interact in a behavior by telling the dog no, or >physically restrain or correct him, we are becoming part of the >behavior, either as a player or competitor in the dogs mischief. >Using sound as a distraction must always be followed by immediate, >prolonged, non physical praise. Interrupting a behavior with sound >should never be associated with us, as in voicing no, or telling the >dog to stop it. >The behavior should not be distracted with any intervention. We want >the behavior to begin again, so that we may have another opportunity >to properly address the behavior with another sound and praise. >That way, we can completely end a problem while the dog is thinking >about it, and we are prepared to address the issue before it becomes >out of control. The sound must never occur twice in a row from the >same direction. >In other words, if you snapped your fingers in front of the dog to >stop him from chewing on your shoelace, you’d praise him for five to >fifteen seconds immediately upon snapping your fingers. >The behavior will hopefully resume, and the next sound of the snap of >your fingers must come from behind the dog, or even from a friend >assisting from across the room, from a soda can with a few pennies in >it, or any source of sound (except our voice!), followed by prolonged >non physical praise, until the dog is no longer thinking about the >behavior or resumes it. >The third interruption of the behavior usually gets the message >across, and the dog will think about the behavior for just a moment >before engaging in it once again for the fourth and last time… That >split second thinking about engaging in the behavior requires praise. >Do not react to it with a challenge of shouting no, or physically >removing the >temptation. >That moment of thinking about resuming the behavior and the praise it >earns him will validate the prior interruptions of that behavior. >The dog then needs to test it out, to be sure that the same behavior >will be dealt with in exactly the same manner. They will usually make >a fourth attempt at the behavior, and if you follow through >appropriately, he will learn not to do that behavior anymore. But >only on the one shoelace! He must take that behavior to other >instances to fully cease the desire for the behavior. >The behavior will not be completely broken until he has taken the >process of elimination to the second, third, and fourth opportunity >to explore that behavior. And, even at that, you may need to repeat >the process in four completely different places. That means that the >worst behavior may need up to sixty-four properly timed interruptions >and praise. Usually it happens much quicker than that. >Breaking a behavior in this manner reduces stress, takes us out of >the position of negative enforcer or competitor or playmate, and >allows the dog to extinguish a behavior because he simply doesn’t get >any satisfaction from it. The other secret is giving the dog a payoff >for every time they look at you. Each time you notice eye contact >from your dog, you must praise him verbally, to prevent his idle mind >from doing the devils work. >;-) DRAINING THE SWAMP, AND RELOCATING THE >GATORS… J>>> >"CUSTOM WILL RECONCILE PEOPLE TO ANY >ATROCITY." G.B. Shaw. >"I know that most men, including those at ease with problems >of the greatest complexity, can seldom accept even the >simplest and most obvious truth if it would oblige them to >admit the falsity of conclusions which they have delighted in >explaining to colleagues, proudly taught to others, and which >they have woven, thread by thread, into the fabric of their >lives." > Leo Tolstoy >Is it any wonder that the following sig file has generated more >complaints to my personal email than any other controversial >post I have made to date, bar none?: > caveat >If you have to do things to your dog to train him, that you would >rather not have to do, then you shouldn’t be doing them. If you >have a dog trainer that tells you to jerk your dog around, choke >him, pinch his ears, or twist his toes, shock, shake, slap, scold, >hit, or punish him in any manner, that corrections are >appropriate, that the dog won’t think of you as the punisher, >or that corrections are not harmful, or if they can’t train your >dog to do what you want, look for a trainer that knows Howe. >Sincerely, >Jerry Howe, >Wits’ End Dog Training >http://www.doggydoright.com >Nature, to be mastered, must be obeyed.
… read more »
Response:
Hello Chelle,
> Okay, is it just me, or does this response make no sense for > the question I posted? "He" is going for my scent? At the very > least, Jerry didn’t notice Luna is a she.
To me, it doesn’t matter if the dog is male, female, neutered, or a puppy. > And if it were a scent thing, why wouldn’t my dog lick > anything that smelled like me, like my shoes and dirty clothes > or my bed, for example?
She likes what she is sniffing after… > And I never stated this as a "problem?"
You mentioned you didn’t like sitting in a wet spot. It’s your spot, you can do with it as you choose. I offered a quick and easy solution to the wet spot. > I just wondered if anyone had ever heard of anything similar, > and if so, if they had any insight? I don’t get how this response >
Well, if my response doesn’t answer your question, and if it doesn’t offer excellent advice, then I’d agree that my response was totally irrelevant… Seems to me, I met BOTH criteria. J>>> "Thus we should beware of clinging to vulgar opinions, and judge things by reason’s way, not by popular say." Montaigne "Violence is the last refuge of the incompetent." Salvor Hardin "If you cannot convince them, confuse them." H.S. Truman. ;~) DRAINING THE SWAMP, AND RELOCATING THE GATORS… J>>> "CUSTOM WILL RECONCILE PEOPLE TO ANY ATROCITY." G.B. Shaw. "I know that most men, including those at ease with problems of the greatest complexity, can seldom accept even the simplest and most obvious truth if it would oblige them to admit the falsity of conclusions which they have delighted in explaining to colleagues, proudly taught to others, and which they have woven, thread by thread, into the fabric of their lives." Leo Tolstoy Is it any wonder that the following sig file has generated more complaints to my personal email than any other controversial post I have made to date, bar none?: caveat If you have to do things to your dog to train him, that you would rather not have to do, then you shouldn’t be doing them. If you have a dog trainer that tells you to jerk your dog around, choke him, pinch his ears, or twist his toes, shock, shake, slap, scold, hit, or punish him in any manner, that corrections are appropriate, that the dog won’t think of you as the punisher, or that corrections are not harmful, or if they can’t train your dog to do what you want, look for a trainer that knows Howe. Sincerely, Jerry Howe, Wits’ End Dog Training http://www.doggydoright.com Nature, to be mastered, must be obeyed. -Francis Bacon- There are terrible people who, instead of solving a problem, bungle it and make it more difficult for all who come after. Who ever can’t hit the nail on the head should, please, not hit at all. -Nietzsche- The abilities to think, rationalize and solve problems are learned qualities. The Wits’ End Dog Training Method challenges the learning centers in the dogs brain. These centers, once challenged, develop and continue to grow exponentially, to make him smarter. The Wits’ End Dog Training method capitalizes on praising split seconds of canine thought, strategy, and timing, not mindless hours of forced repetition, constant corrections, and scolding. -Jerry Howe-
Response:
Okay, is it just me, or does this response make no sense for the question I posted? "He" is going for my scent? At the very least, Jerry didn’t notice Luna is a she. And if it were a scent thing, why wouldn’t my dog lick anything that smelled like me, like my shoes and dirty clothes or my bed, for example? And I never stated this as a "problem?" I just wondered if anyone had ever heard of anything similar, and if so, if they had any – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >Hello Chelle, >He is going after your scent. It should be easy to break the habit >using sound distraction and praise. >Using this technique is the easiest and fastest way to break any >behavior. There are a number of things that have to be considered >when beginning this approach. A few preliminary exercises in the >Wits’ End Dog Training Method manual available at: >http://www.doggydoright.com will explain the basic handling >techniques you should learn. Using them will insure that the method >will work to a high degree of proficiency. >The problem is that not many people understand how to use the sound >distraction and praise techniques correctly. When you are told that >it has been tried and didn’t work, rest assured that whomever "tried" >it and for whom it did not work, did not "try" doing it correctly. >I often hear the "experts" here saying they’ve tried it, and it >didn’t work for them, or it made their dog nervous. There are people >that do not follow directions and get lousy results, and there are >people that do not allow the technique adequate repetition to be >successful. Those problems will occur if the technique is not done >precisely. There is no excuse that these techniques will not work if >done correctly, they are a scientific fact. >Any sound will suffice. Ideally, the sound would be the same each >time, but that is not often possible. A single clap of the hands or >snap of the fingers would do, if it were followed by praise, and as >long as it does not happen twice in succession from the same point of >origin. That’s why several cans are required. You cannot use the same >can for more than two occasions in succession. The sound must always >be accompanied with praise. The sound must never occur from the same >point of origin twice in succession. The sound must be brief. The >praise must continue constantly for several seconds following the >sound to allow the thought process to be completed. The behavior must >be allowed or made to be repeated and interrupted using sound and >praise until the behavior is broken. And most importantly, the >moment the dog thinks of resuming the behavior, you must praise him. >That’s right. When the dog thinks about resuming the behavior, if you >praise him at that exact moment, the previous corrections will be >restimulated in the dogs mind, and the >behavior will be extinguished. >That seems to be the real hard part for the trainers here to >understand. They want to make it happen, and they interfere with the >dogs thought process. The dog will learn through the process of >elimination of alternative actions or behaviors. It takes a few >minutes, and the behavior is eliminated, rather than repressed and >seething to resume. >The trainer will confound his efforts when they insist on telling the >dog NO!, instead of relying on the conditioning that has been >established. Shouting at the dog will often trigger the opposite of >the desired effect. What further complicates the process for the >trainer, is that they break the conditioning when they respond with a >different corrective technique out of a reflexive reaction of their >own, such as screaming No!, or reaching out to grab the dog and >physically correcting the dog for a further instance of malbehavior, >rather than taking the moment to think about the best way to address >the problem, and if necessary search for a can and follow through >with the appropriate sound and praise. >The process must be carried out using an alternate source of sound >for the next interruption. An associate could be enlisted and >instructed to clap their hands on signal to accomplish the desired >sound interruption. We want the dog to exhaust all of the alternative >malbehaviors he can pull out of his bag of tricks, in order for us to >extinguish them each in turn. >Any time we interact in a behavior by telling the dog no, or >physically restrain or correct him, we are becoming part of the >behavior, either as a player or competitor in the dogs mischief. >Using sound as a distraction must always be followed by immediate, >prolonged, non physical praise. Interrupting a behavior with sound >should never be associated with us, as in voicing no, or telling the >dog to stop it. >The behavior should not be distracted with any intervention. We want >the behavior to begin again, so that we may have another opportunity >to properly address the behavior with another sound and praise. >That way, we can completely end a problem while the dog is thinking >about it, and we are prepared to address the issue before it becomes >out of control. The sound must never occur twice in a row from the >same direction. >In other words, if you snapped your fingers in front of the dog to >stop him from chewing on your shoelace, you’d praise him for five to >fifteen seconds immediately upon snapping your fingers. >The behavior will hopefully resume, and the next sound of the snap of >your fingers must come from behind the dog, or even from a friend >assisting from across the room, from a soda can with a few pennies in >it, or any source of sound (except our voice!), followed by prolonged >non physical praise, until the dog is no longer thinking about the >behavior or resumes it. >The third interruption of the behavior usually gets the message >across, and the dog will think about the behavior for just a moment >before engaging in it once again for the fourth and last time… That >split second thinking about engaging in the behavior requires praise. >Do not react to it with a challenge of shouting no, or physically >removing the >temptation. >That moment of thinking about resuming the behavior and the praise it >earns him will validate the prior interruptions of that behavior. >The dog then needs to test it out, to be sure that the same behavior >will be dealt with in exactly the same manner. They will usually make >a fourth attempt at the behavior, and if you follow through >appropriately, he will learn not to do that behavior anymore. But >only on the one shoelace! He must take that behavior to other >instances to fully cease the desire for the behavior. >The behavior will not be completely broken until he has taken the >process of elimination to the second, third, and fourth opportunity >to explore that behavior. And, even at that, you may need to repeat >the process in four completely different places. That means that the >worst behavior may need up to sixty-four properly timed interruptions >and praise. Usually it happens much quicker than that. >Breaking a behavior in this manner reduces stress, takes us out of >the position of negative enforcer or competitor or playmate, and >allows the dog to extinguish a behavior because he simply doesn’t get >any satisfaction from it. The other secret is giving the dog a payoff >for every time they look at you. Each time you notice eye contact >from your dog, you must praise him verbally, to prevent his idle mind >from doing the devils work. >;-) DRAINING THE SWAMP, AND RELOCATING THE >GATORS… J>>> >"CUSTOM WILL RECONCILE PEOPLE TO ANY >ATROCITY." G.B. Shaw. >"I know that most men, including those at ease with problems >of the greatest complexity, can seldom accept even the >simplest and most obvious truth if it would oblige them to >admit the falsity of conclusions which they have delighted in >explaining to colleagues, proudly taught to others, and which >they have woven, thread by thread, into the fabric of their >lives." > Leo Tolstoy >Is it any wonder that the following sig file has generated more >complaints to my personal email than any other controversial >post I have made to date, bar none?: > caveat >If you have to do things to your dog to train him, that you would >rather not have to do, then you shouldn’t be doing them. If you >have a dog trainer that tells you to jerk your dog around, choke >him, pinch his ears, or twist his toes, shock, shake, slap, scold, >hit, or punish him in any manner, that corrections are >appropriate, that the dog won’t think of you as the punisher, >or that corrections are not harmful, or if they can’t train your >dog to do what you want, look for a trainer that knows Howe. >Sincerely, >Jerry Howe, >Wits’ End Dog Training >http://www.doggydoright.com >Nature, to be mastered, must be obeyed. > -Francis Bacon- >There are terrible people who, instead of solving a problem, >bungle it and make it more difficult for all who come after. Who >ever can’t hit the nail on the head should, please, not hit at all. > -Nietzsche- >The abilities to think, rationalize and solve problems are learned >qualities. >The Wits’ End Dog Training Method challenges the learning >centers in the dogs brain. These centers, once challenged, >develop and continue to grow exponentially, to make him smarter. >The Wits’ End Dog Training method capitalizes on praising split >seconds of canine thought, strategy, and timing, not mindless >hours of forced repetition, constant corrections, and scolding. > -Jerry Howe-
Response:
Don’t worry about it…..it just jer’s canned spam….he doesn’t actually read much of anyone’s posts, and the little he does, he doesn’t comprehend. One favor please….if you respond to one of his posts, could you please snip out most of his crap? The rest of us don’t care to read him once, much less twice. Welcome to the group. Lois E.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Okay, is it just me, or does this response make no sense for the question I > posted? "He" is going for my scent? At the very least, Jerry didn’t notice > Luna is a she. And if it were a scent thing, why wouldn’t my dog lick > anything that smelled like me, like my shoes and dirty clothes or my bed, > for example? And I never stated this as a "problem?" I just wondered if > anyone had ever heard of anything similar, and if so, if they had any
Response:
I have a 2 yr. old Siberian husky who has what I consider to be a very odd habit. Whenever I get out of a chair, she likes to go lick the seat of the chair I just left, for seemingly no reason. No reason I can determine anyway. It doesn’t seem to matter what kind of chair it is; she does it to any chair I exit, be it my leather office chair at the computer desk, or the upholestered couch or one of the oak kitchen chairs, so I don’t think it’s just a texture thing. And it’s only chairs *I* leave; I’ve never seen her lick chairs my husband or guests get out of. I’m not really concerned about it or anything because she never chews the chairs or does any damage, she just likes to lick them for a minute so it’s harmless, except that sometimes I sit back down in a damp chair, which isn’t really pleasant. I’m just very curious if anyone else has ever heard of anything similar, and if so, do you know why a dog might do this? She also likes to lick my shins from the knee down, which is a little more annoying. Is this similar to the hand licking things dogs like to do to those who have salty palms? Thanks, Chelle
Response:
Hello Chelle, He is going after your scent. It should be easy to break the habit using sound distraction and praise. Using this technique is the easiest and fastest way to break any behavior. There are a number of things that have to be considered when beginning this approach. A few preliminary exercises in the Wits’ End Dog Training Method manual available at: http://www.doggydoright.com will explain the basic handling techniques you should learn. Using them will insure that the method will work to a high degree of proficiency. The problem is that not many people understand how to use the sound distraction and praise techniques correctly. When you are told that it has been tried and didn’t work, rest assured that whomever "tried" it and for whom it did not work, did not "try" doing it correctly. I often hear the "experts" here saying they’ve tried it, and it didn’t work for them, or it made their dog nervous. There are people that do not follow directions and get lousy results, and there are people that do not allow the technique adequate repetition to be successful. Those problems will occur if the technique is not done precisely. There is no excuse that these techniques will not work if done correctly, they are a scientific fact. Any sound will suffice. Ideally, the sound would be the same each time, but that is not often possible. A single clap of the hands or snap of the fingers would do, if it were followed by praise, and as long as it does not happen twice in succession from the same point of origin. That’s why several cans are required. You cannot use the same can for more than two occasions in succession. The sound must always be accompanied with praise. The sound must never occur from the same point of origin twice in succession. The sound must be brief. The praise must continue constantly for several seconds following the sound to allow the thought process to be completed. The behavior must be allowed or made to be repeated and interrupted using sound and praise until the behavior is broken. And most importantly, the moment the dog thinks of resuming the behavior, you must praise him. That’s right. When the dog thinks about resuming the behavior, if you praise him at that exact moment, the previous corrections will be restimulated in the dogs mind, and the behavior will be extinguished. That seems to be the real hard part for the trainers here to understand. They want to make it happen, and they interfere with the dogs thought process. The dog will learn through the process of elimination of alternative actions or behaviors. It takes a few minutes, and the behavior is eliminated, rather than repressed and seething to resume. The trainer will confound his efforts when they insist on telling the dog NO!, instead of relying on the conditioning that has been established. Shouting at the dog will often trigger the opposite of the desired effect. What further complicates the process for the trainer, is that they break the conditioning when they respond with a different corrective technique out of a reflexive reaction of their own, such as screaming No!, or reaching out to grab the dog and physically correcting the dog for a further instance of malbehavior, rather than taking the moment to think about the best way to address the problem, and if necessary search for a can and follow through with the appropriate sound and praise. The process must be carried out using an alternate source of sound for the next interruption. An associate could be enlisted and instructed to clap their hands on signal to accomplish the desired sound interruption. We want the dog to exhaust all of the alternative malbehaviors he can pull out of his bag of tricks, in order for us to extinguish them each in turn. Any time we interact in a behavior by telling the dog no, or physically restrain or correct him, we are becoming part of the behavior, either as a player or competitor in the dogs mischief. Using sound as a distraction must always be followed by immediate, prolonged, non physical praise. Interrupting a behavior with sound should never be associated with us, as in voicing no, or telling the dog to stop it. The behavior should not be distracted with any intervention. We want the behavior to begin again, so that we may have another opportunity to properly address the behavior with another sound and praise. That way, we can completely end a problem while the dog is thinking about it, and we are prepared to address the issue before it becomes out of control. The sound must never occur twice in a row from the same direction. In other words, if you snapped your fingers in front of the dog to stop him from chewing on your shoelace, you’d praise him for five to fifteen seconds immediately upon snapping your fingers. The behavior will hopefully resume, and the next sound of the snap of your fingers must come from behind the dog, or even from a friend assisting from across the room, from a soda can with a few pennies in it, or any source of sound (except our voice!), followed by prolonged non physical praise, until the dog is no longer thinking about the behavior or resumes it. The third interruption of the behavior usually gets the message across, and the dog will think about the behavior for just a moment before engaging in it once again for the fourth and last time… That split second thinking about engaging in the behavior requires praise. Do not react to it with a challenge of shouting no, or physically removing the temptation. That moment of thinking about resuming the behavior and the praise it earns him will validate the prior interruptions of that behavior. The dog then needs to test it out, to be sure that the same behavior will be dealt with in exactly the same manner. They will usually make a fourth attempt at the behavior, and if you follow through appropriately, he will learn not to do that behavior anymore. But only on the one shoelace! He must take that behavior to other instances to fully cease the desire for the behavior. The behavior will not be completely broken until he has taken the process of elimination to the second, third, and fourth opportunity to explore that behavior. And, even at that, you may need to repeat the process in four completely different places. That means that the worst behavior may need up to sixty-four properly timed interruptions and praise. Usually it happens much quicker than that. Breaking a behavior in this manner reduces stress, takes us out of the position of negative enforcer or competitor or playmate, and allows the dog to extinguish a behavior because he simply doesn’t get any satisfaction from it. The other secret is giving the dog a payoff for every time they look at you. Each time you notice eye contact from your dog, you must praise him verbally, to prevent his idle mind from doing the devils work. 
DRAINING THE SWAMP, AND RELOCATING THE GATORS… J>>> "CUSTOM WILL RECONCILE PEOPLE TO ANY ATROCITY." G.B. Shaw. "I know that most men, including those at ease with problems of the greatest complexity, can seldom accept even the simplest and most obvious truth if it would oblige them to admit the falsity of conclusions which they have delighted in explaining to colleagues, proudly taught to others, and which they have woven, thread by thread, into the fabric of their lives." Leo Tolstoy Is it any wonder that the following sig file has generated more complaints to my personal email than any other controversial post I have made to date, bar none?: caveat If you have to do things to your dog to train him, that you would rather not have to do, then you shouldn’t be doing them. If you have a dog trainer that tells you to jerk your dog around, choke him, pinch his ears, or twist his toes, shock, shake, slap, scold, hit, or punish him in any manner, that corrections are appropriate, that the dog won’t think of you as the punisher, or that corrections are not harmful, or if they can’t train your dog to do what you want, look for a trainer that knows Howe. Sincerely, Jerry Howe, Wits’ End Dog Training http://www.doggydoright.com Nature, to be mastered, must be obeyed. -Francis Bacon- There are terrible people who, instead of solving a problem, bungle it and make it more difficult for all who come after. Who ever can’t hit the nail on the head should, please, not hit at all. -Nietzsche- The abilities to think, rationalize and solve problems are learned qualities. The Wits’ End Dog Training Method challenges the learning centers in the dogs brain. These centers, once challenged, develop and continue to grow exponentially, to make him smarter. The Wits’ End Dog Training method capitalizes on praising split seconds of canine thought, strategy, and timing, not mindless hours of forced repetition, constant corrections, and scolding. -Jerry Howe-
Response:
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