Posts belonging to Category 'Dog Behavior Problem'

"Advice for people that love dogs but dont like the fighting

Question:

I just wanted to post a little piece of advice for people who are sick of all of the fighting in this newsgroup. As the READ FIRST message says, this newsgroup is not moderated.  It is possible however to moderate the newsgroup yourself by having your computer filter out the posts by people that you dont like.  That way you dont even have to look at the messages from these people, and maybe you will want to hang around this newsgroup some more. I know that most people probably already know this, however I am sure that there are more dog lovers here than there are computer lovers, so for everybody that does not know how, simply type "filter posts" into your browsers help menu and your computer will instruct you from there. It is amazing how much better this newsgroup is after having filtered out only one person.  If everybody ignores this person, maybe he will go away and we wont have to look at replies to him either.

Response:

>If everybody ignores this person, maybe he will go away

That’s the best thing there is about having good filters. It really doesn’t matter if he actually goes away… …’cause he’s already gone. :>) — Dogman http://www.i1.net/~dogman "I really dislike – thats (sic) too harsh but the best I can state it –  the entire sporting group and cannot imagine being forced to live with one – not my types at all!"                                                                           Nancy Holmes

Response:

>…’cause he’s already gone.

you said a mouthful there, Dogman. shelly and elliott & harriet http://members.home.net/scouvrette/index/ — I recommend to all rpdb readers that Jerry Howe should be ignored as a crank and waste of time

Response:

Hello rainy,

> I just wanted to post a little piece of advice for > people who are sick of all of the fighting in this > newsgroup.

I hope this is a good one, I’m getting tired of it. > As the READ FIRST message says, this newsgroup is > not moderated.

Sure it is. It’s moderated by US. > It is possible however to moderate the newsgroup > yourself by having your computer filter out the posts > by people that you dont like.

Sounds like you’re one of our dog abusing, lying, Gang Of Thugs members, using another anonymous identity. Looks like I’m getting you a little BURNED underneath the collar, eh? Huh? Huh? Huh? Eh? Eh? Eh? Huh? > That way you dont even have to look at the messages > from these people, and maybe you will want to hang > around this newsgroup some more.

RIGHT. You’ve seen HOWE effective that has been for our Gang Of Thugs. HERE YOU ARE, bitching about ME, who’s in YOUR killfile. Don’t you think that tells US, that YOU are only worried about what OTHER people LEARN from me??? You can’t fool me, I’ve been fooled so much, there’s NO CHANCE of fooling me again… SEE? Same thing happens with dog behavior problems, you bums fight with every behavior problems in creation, till there simply aren’t no MOORE left to fight with, and then it’s time to get a new dog. > I know that most people probably already know this, > however I am sure that there are more dog lovers > here

YES INDEED. I’ll post a few QUOTES of our dog lovers BEATING DOGS WITH STICKS to MOTIVATE them, twisting and pinching their ears, toes, and testicles, and shocking, chin cuffing, scruff shaking, kneeing dogs in the chest, shoving fingers down puppy’s throats to choke them out of mouthing… MAYBE I’ll even include some cute stories of all the wonderful times they have, like that day Moon got burned for snakeproofing, and the man operating the session said "GEEESSSUSS!" as Moon flipped assoverbucket in the air and screamed bloody murder??? > than there are computer lovers, so for everybody > that does not know how, simply type "filter posts" > into your browsers help menu and your computer will > instruct you from there.

An EXCELLENT idea. I suggest they start with professor lyingdoc dermer’s sig file, and enter the list of folks here he’s LEARNED so much from, like lyingfrosty dahl, lyinglynn, cindymooreon (she’s been BANNED from two obedience clubs), diane blackman, janet boss (see the thread "interested in hearing"), john richardson (our pit bull libertarian, who’ll bump off a pb for just looking crosseyed when he jerks and chokes him), and our own psychoclown… > It is amazing how much better this newsgroup is after > having filtered out only one person.

This anonymous Thug MUST be boob maida. Hello boob. Why don’t you call YOUR dog training teacher to have HIM show me up to be RONGE??? BWAAAHAHAH!!! > If everybody ignores this person, maybe he will go > away and we wont have to look at replies to him > either.

BWWWWAAAHAHAHAHAAA!!!! C’mon outta there, boob maida. Ask yourself "WHY DOESN’T JERRY HURT DOGS TO TRAIN THEM?" And then just answer "BECAUSE JERRY KNOWS HOWE TO TRAIN DOGS WITHOUT HURTING THEM." And THEN SAY OUT LOUD: "IGNORE JERRY, HE’S MEAN TO DOG ABUSERS." You can get all the information you need to PROPERLY handle and train your dog using non force, non confronatational, scientific and psychological methods, in the Wits’ End Dog Training Method manual available for free at http://www.doggydoright.com The Wits’ End Dog Training Method manual is provided courtesy of  the BIOSOUND Scientific Elves as an alternative to Doggy Do Right (and Kitty Will Too). Your pal, Jerry "The Phony," Howe, Here’s some psychoclown lying for lyingfrosty dahl, and then we got some "GOOD KOEHLER TRAINING," according to your pal lyingdogDUMMY.

"Nope. That "beating dogs with sticks" things is something you twisted out of context, because you are full of bizarro manure." Amy lyingfrosty Dahl LIES with a straight face and says: "I don’t beat dogs, twist ears, or pinch toes. For the benefit of anyone who is in doubt, and who chooses not to read the article, there is NO mention in it of twisting ears. I would never slap a dog. I would never advise anyone to slap a dog. I do not believe there is a single circumstance, ever, where slapping a dog is anything but destructive." RIGHT. She PINCHES, not twists… and chin cuff doesn’t mean hit, it means slap. amy lyingfrosty dahl continues: "Get a stick 30- or 40-inches long. You can have a helper wield the stick, or do it yourself. Tougher, less tractable dogs may require you to progress to striking them more sharply. With your hand on the collar and ear, say, "fetch." Immediately tap the dog on the hindquarters with the stick. Repeat "fetch" and pinch the ear all the way to the dummy. Repeat, varying how hard you hit the dog," "Now you are ready to progress to what most people think of as force-fetching: the ear pinch. Make the dog’s need to stop the pinching so urgent that resisting your will fades in importance. but will squeal, thrash around, and direct their efforts to escaping the ear pinch You can press the dog’s ear with a shotshell instead of your thumb even get a studded collar and pinch the ear against that Say "fetch" while pressing the dummy against its lips and pinching its ear. if the dog still does not open its mouth, get out the shotshell. Try pinching the ear between the metal casing and the collar, even the buckle on the collar. Persist! Eventually, the dog will give in" Gotta LOVE koehler. dahl makes koheler look like St. Francis. "The Koehler Method of Dog Training" , Howell Book House, 1996": "Housebreaking problems: Occasionally, there is a pup who seems determined to relieve himself inside the house, regardless of how often he has the opportunity to go outside. This dog may require punishment. Make certain he is equipped with a collar and piece of line so he can’t avoid correction. When you discover a mess, move in fast, take him to the place of his error, and hold his head close enough so that he associates his error with the punishment. Punish him by spanking him with a light strap or switch. Either one is better than a folded newspaper. It is important to your future relationship that you do not rush at him and start swinging before you get hold of him. When he’s been spanked, take him outside. Chances are, if you are careful in your feeding and close observation, you will not have to do much punishing. Be consistent in your handling. To have a pup almost house-broken and then force him to commit an error by not providing an opportunity to go outside is very unfair. Careful planning will make your job easier. The same general techniques of housebreaking apply to grown dogs that are inexperienced in the house. For the grown dog who was reliable in the house and then backslides, the method of correction differs somewhat. In this group of "backsliders" we have the "revenge piddler." This dog protests being alone by messing on the floor and often in the middle of a bed. The first step of correction is to confine the dog closely in a part of the house when you go away, so that he is constantly reminded of his obligation. The fact that he once was reliable in the house is proof that the dog knows right from wrong, and it leaves you no other course than to punish him sufficiently to convince him that the satisfaction of his wrongdoing is not worth the consequences. If the punishment is not severe enough, some of these "backsliders" will think they’re winning and will continue to mess in the house. An indelible impression can sometimes be made by giving the dog a hard spanking of long duration, then leaving him tied by the mess he’s made so you can come back at twenty minute intervals and punish him again for the same thing. In most cases, the dog that deliberately does this disagreeable thing cannot be made reliable by the light spanking that some owners seem to think is adequate punishment. It will be better for your dog, as well as the house, if you really pour it on him. Some of the new "breaking scents" on the market can aid in your house-breaking program. One type discourages the dog from even visiting an area. Another encourages him to relieve himself in the area where it is sprinkled. Your pet shop should be able to supply further information on the brands available in your district. Be fair to your dog in what and when you feed him and be consistent in your efforts to housebreak him, and you’ll soon accomplish the job. BARKING, WHINING, HOWLING, YODELING, SCREAMING, AND WAILING The fact that you realize you have such a problem makes it certain you have "reproved" the dog often enough to let him know you were against his sound effects, even though your reproving didn’t quiet them, so we’ll bypass the loudly clapped hands, the cup of water in his face, and the "shame-shames" and start with something more emphatic. We’ll begin with the easiest kind of vocalist to correct: the one that charges gates, fences, doors, and windows, barking furiously at familiar or imaginary people and objects. A few clusters of BBs from a good slingshot, in conjunction with the light line and plenty of temptations, will cause such a dog to use his mind rather than his mouth. But you won’t make the permanent impression unless you supply dozens of opportunities for him to exercise the control he thus acquires. Make sure these opportunities don’t always come at the same time of the day, else he may learn to observe the "quiet hour" and pursue his old routines at other times. With the help of the light line, it will be easy to follow the BBs with a long down to make sure he gets the most from his lesson. As was mentioned before, eliminating the senseless barking will not lessen the dog’s value as a watchdog but rather, … read more »

Response:

Hello lyingdogDUMMY,

>If everybody ignores this person, maybe he will go > away > That’s the best thing there is about having good > filters. > It really doesn’t matter if he actually goes away…

Right. > …’cause he’s already gone.

Yeah. Just like that syphlitic chancre you had. It went away too. IT TOOK YOUR MIND WITH IT. AND NEXT, IT’LL KILL YOU. LIKE ME. > Dogman

Yes, with me in your killfile, you’ll NEVER EVER even have to THINK about JERRY again!! WHOOPIE!! HURRAY!!! KOWABUNGA! Ha, ha, ha, ha, ha…. BWWAAAAAHAHAHAHAHA!!! Here’s some psychoclown lying for lyingfrosty dahl, and then we got some "GOOD KOEHLER TRAINING," according to your pal lyingdogDUMMY.

"Nope. That "beating dogs with sticks" things is something you twisted out of context, because you are full of bizarro manure." Amy lyingfrosty Dahl LIES with a straight face and says: "I don’t beat dogs, twist ears, or pinch toes. For the benefit of anyone who is in doubt, and who chooses not to read the article, there is NO mention in it of twisting ears. I would never slap a dog. I would never advise anyone to slap a dog. I do not believe there is a single circumstance, ever, where slapping a dog is anything but destructive." RIGHT. She PINCHES, not twists… and chin cuff doesn’t mean hit, it means slap. amy lyingfrosty dahl continues: "Get a stick 30- or 40-inches long. You can have a helper wield the stick, or do it yourself. Tougher, less tractable dogs may require you to progress to striking them more sharply. With your hand on the collar and ear, say, "fetch." Immediately tap the dog on the hindquarters with the stick. Repeat "fetch" and pinch the ear all the way to the dummy. Repeat, varying how hard you hit the dog," "Now you are ready to progress to what most people think of as force-fetching: the ear pinch. Make the dog’s need to stop the pinching so urgent that resisting your will fades in importance. but will squeal, thrash around, and direct their efforts to escaping the ear pinch You can press the dog’s ear with a shotshell instead of your thumb even get a studded collar and pinch the ear against that Say "fetch" while pressing the dummy against its lips and pinching its ear. if the dog still does not open its mouth, get out the shotshell. Try pinching the ear between the metal casing and the collar, even the buckle on the collar. Persist! Eventually, the dog will give in" Gotta LOVE koehler. dahl makes koheler look like St. Francis. "The Koehler Method of Dog Training" , Howell Book House, 1996": "Housebreaking problems: Occasionally, there is a pup who seems determined to relieve himself inside the house, regardless of how often he has the opportunity to go outside. This dog may require punishment. Make certain he is equipped with a collar and piece of line so he can’t avoid correction. When you discover a mess, move in fast, take him to the place of his error, and hold his head close enough so that he associates his error with the punishment. Punish him by spanking him with a light strap or switch. Either one is better than a folded newspaper. It is important to your future relationship that you do not rush at him and start swinging before you get hold of him. When he’s been spanked, take him outside. Chances are, if you are careful in your feeding and close observation, you will not have to do much punishing. Be consistent in your handling. To have a pup almost house-broken and then force him to commit an error by not providing an opportunity to go outside is very unfair. Careful planning will make your job easier. The same general techniques of housebreaking apply to grown dogs that are inexperienced in the house. For the grown dog who was reliable in the house and then backslides, the method of correction differs somewhat. In this group of "backsliders" we have the "revenge piddler." This dog protests being alone by messing on the floor and often in the middle of a bed. The first step of correction is to confine the dog closely in a part of the house when you go away, so that he is constantly reminded of his obligation. The fact that he once was reliable in the house is proof that the dog knows right from wrong, and it leaves you no other course than to punish him sufficiently to convince him that the satisfaction of his wrongdoing is not worth the consequences. If the punishment is not severe enough, some of these "backsliders" will think they’re winning and will continue to mess in the house. An indelible impression can sometimes be made by giving the dog a hard spanking of long duration, then leaving him tied by the mess he’s made so you can come back at twenty minute intervals and punish him again for the same thing. In most cases, the dog that deliberately does this disagreeable thing cannot be made reliable by the light spanking that some owners seem to think is adequate punishment. It will be better for your dog, as well as the house, if you really pour it on him. Some of the new "breaking scents" on the market can aid in your house-breaking program. One type discourages the dog from even visiting an area. Another encourages him to relieve himself in the area where it is sprinkled. Your pet shop should be able to supply further information on the brands available in your district. Be fair to your dog in what and when you feed him and be consistent in your efforts to housebreak him, and you’ll soon accomplish the job. BARKING, WHINING, HOWLING, YODELING, SCREAMING, AND WAILING The fact that you realize you have such a problem makes it certain you have "reproved" the dog often enough to let him know you were against his sound effects, even though your reproving didn’t quiet them, so we’ll bypass the loudly clapped hands, the cup of water in his face, and the "shame-shames" and start with something more emphatic. We’ll begin with the easiest kind of vocalist to correct: the one that charges gates, fences, doors, and windows, barking furiously at familiar or imaginary people and objects. A few clusters of BBs from a good slingshot, in conjunction with the light line and plenty of temptations, will cause such a dog to use his mind rather than his mouth. But you won’t make the permanent impression unless you supply dozens of opportunities for him to exercise the control he thus acquires. Make sure these opportunities don’t always come at the same time of the day, else he may learn to observe the "quiet hour" and pursue his old routines at other times. With the help of the light line, it will be easy to follow the BBs with a long down to make sure he gets the most from his lesson. As was mentioned before, eliminating the senseless barking will not lessen the dog’s value as a watchdog but rather, as he grows more discriminating, increase it. The dog who vocalizes in bratty protest or lonesomeness because you’re gone constitutes a different problem. If it is impractical for someone to stay with him constantly (there are owners who cater to neurosis by employing dog sitters), you’ll have to heed the neighbors and the law and quiet the dog. This calls for a little ingenuity as well as a heavy hand. Attach a line to your dog’s collar, so your corrective effort doesn’t turn into a footrace around the house until you reach a stalemate under the bed. This use of the line in the correction will also serve to establish it as a reminder to be quiet as the dog drags it around when you’re not present. Next, equip yourself with a man’s leather belt or a strap heavy enough to give your particular dog a good tanning. Yup-we’re going to strike him. Real hard. Remember, you’re dealing with a dog who knows he should be quiet and neighbors who have legal rights to see that he does. When the noise comes, instead of trying to sneak up to the door so you can barge in while he’s still barking, which is generally impossible, respond to his first sound with an emphatic bellow of "out," and keep on bellowing as you charge back to his area. Thunder through the door or gate, snatch up the belt that you’ve conveniently placed, and descend on him. He’ll have no chance to dodge if you grab the line and reel him in until his front feet are raised off the floor or, if he’s a big dog, until you’ve snubbed him up with a hitch on something. While he’s held in close, lay the strap vigorously against his thighs. Keep pouring it on him until he thinks it’s the bitter end. A real whaling now may cut down somewhat on the number of repeat performances that will be necessary. When you’re finished and the dog is convinced that he is, put him on a long down to think things over while you catch your breath. After fifteen or twenty minutes, release him from the stay and leave the area again. So that you won’t feel remorseful, reflect on the truth that a great percentage of the barkers who are given away to "good homes" end up in the kindly black box with the sweet smell. Personally, I’ve always felt that it’s even better to spank children, even if they "cry out," than to "put them to sleep." You might have a long wait on that comfortable porch before your dog starts broadcasting again. When he does, let your long range bellow tie the consequent correction to his first sound and repeat the spanking, if anything emphasizing it a bit more. It might be necessary to spend a Saturday or another day off so that you’ll have time to follow through sufficiently. When you have a full day, you will be able to convince him each yelp will have a bad consequence, and the consistency will make your job easier. If he gets away with his concert part of the time, he’ll be apt to gamble on your inconsistency. After a half dozen corrections, "the reason and the correction" will be tied in close enough association so that you can move in on him without … read more »

Response:

>…’cause he’s already gone. > you said a mouthful there, Dogman. > shelly and elliott & harriet > http://members.home.net/scouvrette/index/ > — > I recommend to all rpdb readers that Jerry Howe > should be ignored as a crank and waste of time

Yup-we’re going to strike him. Real hard

Response:

Very true. A better way to filter out posts is to not read them by people you know are not going to write anything useful or those you do not like – I won’t mention any (J) names (H). I hope that everyone reading the messages here knows who is a  complete nut and who is not – and by "complete nut" we all know who I’m talking about. Just ignore the fool, or don’t ignore the fool and enjoy his tirade of posts. They *can* be entertaining even though they are 99% useless. (I’m giving "fool" the benefit of the doubt – if anyone finds that 1% that can be useful to ANYONE let me know. We all know this guy is crazy, insane, out of his mind, etc. Don’t let his rants get to you. They are meaningless).

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I just wanted to post a little piece of advice for people who are sick of all > of the fighting in this newsgroup. > As the READ FIRST message says, this newsgroup is not moderated.  It is > possible however to moderate the newsgroup yourself by having your computer > filter out the posts by people that you dont like.  That way you dont even have > to look at the messages from these people, and maybe you will want to hang > around this newsgroup some more. > I know that most people probably already know this, however I am sure that > there are more dog lovers here than there are computer lovers, so for everybody > that does not know how, simply type "filter posts" into your browsers help menu > and your computer will instruct you from there. > It is amazing how much better this newsgroup is after having filtered out only > one person.  If everybody ignores this person, maybe he will go away and we > wont have to look at replies to him either.

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Very true. A better way to filter out posts is to not read them by people > you know are not going to write anything useful or those you do not like – I > won’t mention any (J) names (H). > I hope that everyone reading the messages here knows who is a  complete nut > and who is not – and by "complete nut" we all know who I’m talking about. > Just ignore the fool, or don’t ignore the fool and enjoy his tirade of > posts. They *can* be entertaining even though they are 99% useless. (I’m > giving "fool" the benefit of the doubt – if anyone finds that 1% that can be > useful to ANYONE let me know. We all know this guy is crazy, insane, out of > his mind, etc. Don’t let his rants get to you. They are > meaningless).

Wanna bet? Here’s some psychoclown lying for lyingfrosty dahl, and then we got some "GOOD KOEHLER TRAINING," according to your pal lyingdogDUMMY.

"Nope. That "beating dogs with sticks" things is something you twisted out of context, because you are full of bizarro manure." Amy lyingfrosty Dahl LIES with a straight face and says: "I don’t beat dogs, twist ears, or pinch toes. For the benefit of anyone who is in doubt, and who chooses not to read the article, there is NO mention in it of twisting ears. I would never slap a dog. I would never advise anyone to slap a dog. I do not believe there is a single circumstance, ever, where slapping a dog is anything but destructive." RIGHT. She PINCHES, not twists… and chin cuff doesn’t mean hit, it means slap. amy lyingfrosty dahl continues: "Get a stick 30- or 40-inches long. You can have a helper wield the stick, or do it yourself. Tougher, less tractable dogs may require you to progress to striking them more sharply. With your hand on the collar and ear, say, "fetch." Immediately tap the dog on the hindquarters with the stick. Repeat "fetch" and pinch the ear all the way to the dummy. Repeat, varying how hard you hit the dog," "Now you are ready to progress to what most people think of as force-fetching: the ear pinch. Make the dog’s need to stop the pinching so urgent that resisting your will fades in importance. but will squeal, thrash around, and direct their efforts to escaping the ear pinch You can press the dog’s ear with a shotshell instead of your thumb even get a studded collar and pinch the ear against that Say "fetch" while pressing the dummy against its lips and pinching its ear. if the dog still does not open its mouth, get out the shotshell. Try pinching the ear between the metal casing and the collar, even the buckle on the collar. Persist! Eventually, the dog will give in" Gotta LOVE koehler. dahl makes koheler look like St. Francis. "The Koehler Method of Dog Training" , Howell Book House, 1996": "Housebreaking problems: Occasionally, there is a pup who seems determined to relieve himself inside the house, regardless of how often he has the opportunity to go outside. This dog may require punishment. Make certain he is equipped with a collar and piece of line so he can’t avoid correction. When you discover a mess, move in fast, take him to the place of his error, and hold his head close enough so that he associates his error with the punishment. Punish him by spanking him with a light strap or switch. Either one is better than a folded newspaper. It is important to your future relationship that you do not rush at him and start swinging before you get hold of him. When he’s been spanked, take him outside. Chances are, if you are careful in your feeding and close observation, you will not have to do much punishing. Be consistent in your handling. To have a pup almost house-broken and then force him to commit an error by not providing an opportunity to go outside is very unfair. Careful planning will make your job easier. The same general techniques of housebreaking apply to grown dogs that are inexperienced in the house. For the grown dog who was reliable in the house and then backslides, the method of correction differs somewhat. In this group of "backsliders" we have the "revenge piddler." This dog protests being alone by messing on the floor and often in the middle of a bed. The first step of correction is to confine the dog closely in a part of the house when you go away, so that he is constantly reminded of his obligation. The fact that he once was reliable in the house is proof that the dog knows right from wrong, and it leaves you no other course than to punish him sufficiently to convince him that the satisfaction of his wrongdoing is not worth the consequences. If the punishment is not severe enough, some of these "backsliders" will think they’re winning and will continue to mess in the house. An indelible impression can sometimes be made by giving the dog a hard spanking of long duration, then leaving him tied by the mess he’s made so you can come back at twenty minute intervals and punish him again for the same thing. In most cases, the dog that deliberately does this disagreeable thing cannot be made reliable by the light spanking that some owners seem to think is adequate punishment. It will be better for your dog, as well as the house, if you really pour it on him. Some of the new "breaking scents" on the market can aid in your house-breaking program. One type discourages the dog from even visiting an area. Another encourages him to relieve himself in the area where it is sprinkled. Your pet shop should be able to supply further information on the brands available in your district. Be fair to your dog in what and when you feed him and be consistent in your efforts to housebreak him, and you’ll soon accomplish the job. BARKING, WHINING, HOWLING, YODELING, SCREAMING, AND WAILING The fact that you realize you have such a problem makes it certain you have "reproved" the dog often enough to let him know you were against his sound effects, even though your reproving didn’t quiet them, so we’ll bypass the loudly clapped hands, the cup of water in his face, and the "shame-shames" and start with something more emphatic. We’ll begin with the easiest kind of vocalist to correct: the one that charges gates, fences, doors, and windows, barking furiously at familiar or imaginary people and objects. A few clusters of BBs from a good slingshot, in conjunction with the light line and plenty of temptations, will cause such a dog to use his mind rather than his mouth. But you won’t make the permanent impression unless you supply dozens of opportunities for him to exercise the control he thus acquires. Make sure these opportunities don’t always come at the same time of the day, else he may learn to observe the "quiet hour" and pursue his old routines at other times. With the help of the light line, it will be easy to follow the BBs with a long down to make sure he gets the most from his lesson. As was mentioned before, eliminating the senseless barking will not lessen the dog’s value as a watchdog but rather, as he grows more discriminating, increase it. The dog who vocalizes in bratty protest or lonesomeness because you’re gone constitutes a different problem. If it is impractical for someone to stay with him constantly (there are owners who cater to neurosis by employing dog sitters), you’ll have to heed the neighbors and the law and quiet the dog. This calls for a little ingenuity as well as a heavy hand. Attach a line to your dog’s collar, so your corrective effort doesn’t turn into a footrace around the house until you reach a stalemate under the bed. This use of the line in the correction will also serve to establish it as a reminder to be quiet as the dog drags it around when you’re not present. Next, equip yourself with a man’s leather belt or a strap heavy enough to give your particular dog a good tanning. Yup-we’re going to strike him. Real hard. Remember, you’re dealing with a dog who knows he should be quiet and neighbors who have legal rights to see that he does. When the noise comes, instead of trying to sneak up to the door so you can barge in while he’s still barking, which is generally impossible, respond to his first sound with an emphatic bellow of "out," and keep on bellowing as you charge back to his area. Thunder through the door or gate, snatch up the belt that you’ve conveniently placed, and descend on him. He’ll have no chance to dodge if you grab the line and reel him in until his front feet are raised off the floor or, if he’s a big dog, until you’ve snubbed him up with a hitch on something. While he’s held in close, lay the strap vigorously against his thighs. Keep pouring it on him until he thinks it’s the bitter end. A real whaling now may cut down somewhat on the number of repeat performances that will be necessary. When you’re finished and the dog is convinced that he is, put him on a long down to think things over while you catch your breath. After fifteen or twenty minutes, release him from the stay and leave the area again. So that you won’t feel remorseful, reflect on the truth that a great percentage of the barkers who are given away to "good homes" end up in the kindly black box with the sweet smell. Personally, I’ve always felt that it’s even better to spank children, even if they "cry out," than to "put them to sleep." You might have a long wait on that comfortable porch before your dog starts broadcasting again. When he does, let your long range bellow tie the consequent correction to his first sound and repeat the spanking, if anything emphasizing it a bit more. It might be necessary to spend a Saturday or another day off so that you’ll have time to follow through sufficiently. When you have a full day, you will be able to convince him each yelp will have a bad consequence, and the consistency will make your job easier. If he gets away with his concert part of the time, he’ll be apt to gamble on your inconsistency. After a half … read more »

Response:

I filter out all posts that have the word ninnyboy in them, because those posts involve a lot of pointless squabbling.  jdoee – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Very true. A better way to filter out posts is to not read them by people > you know are not going to write anything useful or those you do not like – I > won’t mention any (J) names (H). > I hope that everyone reading the messages here knows who is a  complete nut > and who is not – and by "complete nut" we all know who I’m talking about. > Just ignore the fool, or don’t ignore the fool and enjoy his tirade of > posts. They *can* be entertaining even though they are 99% useless. (I’m > giving "fool" the benefit of the doubt – if anyone finds that 1% that can be > useful to ANYONE let me know. We all know this guy is crazy, insane, out of > his mind, etc. Don’t let his rants get to you. They are meaningless). > I just wanted to post a little piece of advice for people who are sick of > all > of the fighting in this newsgroup. > As the READ FIRST message says, this newsgroup is not moderated.  It is > possible however to moderate the newsgroup yourself by having your > computer > filter out the posts by people that you dont like.  That way you dont even > have > to look at the messages from these people, and maybe you will want to hang > around this newsgroup some more. > I know that most people probably already know this, however I am sure that > there are more dog lovers here than there are computer lovers, so for > everybody > that does not know how, simply type "filter posts" into your browsers help > menu > and your computer will instruct you from there. > It is amazing how much better this newsgroup is after having filtered out > only > one person.  If everybody ignores this person, maybe he will go away and > we > wont have to look at replies to him either.

Response:

Good for you. You should probably killfile the people who are using "ninnyboy," because they really aren’t intelligent enough to have a pov EXCEPT "Don’t listen to Jerry cause he sells stuff and he’s mean to dog chokers. Ask yourself "WHY DOESN’T JERRY HURT DOGS TO TRAIN THEM?" And then just answer yourself, "BECAUSE JERRY KNOWS HOWE TO TRAIN DOGS WITHOUT HURTING THEM." And THEN SAY out loud, "IGNORE JERRY, HE’S MEAN TO DOG ABUSERS." You can get all the information you need to PROPERLY handle and train your dog using non force, non confronatational, scientific and psychological methods, in the Wits’ End Dog Training Method manual available for free at http://www.doggydoright.com The Wits’ End Dog Training Method manual is provided courtesy of  the BIOSOUND Scientific Elves as an alternative to Doggy Do Right (and Kitty Will Too). Your pal, Jerry "The Phony," Howe. j;~}

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I filter out all posts that have the word ninnyboy in them, because those > posts involve a lot of pointless squabbling.  jdoee > Very true. A better way to filter out posts is to not read them by people > you know are not going to write anything useful or those you do not like – I > won’t mention any (J) names (H). > I hope that everyone reading the messages here knows who is a  complete nut > and who is not – and by "complete nut" we all know who I’m talking about. > Just ignore the fool, or don’t ignore the fool and enjoy his tirade of > posts. They *can* be entertaining even though they are 99% useless. (I’m > giving "fool" the benefit of the doubt – if anyone finds that 1% that can be > useful to ANYONE let me know. We all know this guy is crazy, insane, out of > his mind, etc. Don’t let his rants get to you. They are meaningless). >> I just wanted to post a little piece of advice for people who are sick of > all >> of the fighting in this newsgroup. >> As the READ FIRST message says, this newsgroup is not moderated.  It is >> possible however to moderate the newsgroup yourself by having your > computer >> filter out the posts by people that you dont like.  That way you dont even > have >> to look at the messages from these people, and maybe you will want to hang >> around this newsgroup some more. >> I know that most people probably already know this, however I am sure that >> there are more dog lovers here than there are computer lovers, so for > everybody >> that does not know how, simply type "filter posts" into your browsers help > menu >> and your computer will instruct you from there. >> It is amazing how much better this newsgroup is after having filtered out > only >> one person.  If everybody ignores this person, maybe he will go away and > we >> wont have to look at replies to him either.

Response:

puppy in heat?

Question:

Another tip for testing if the bitch is receptive… Put your finger near the enlarged vulva, if it moves toward the pressure of the finger – get her locked up!!! As for the bleeding – we had a dog who kept herself extremely clean when she was in season – we could only tell by looking at the vulva, and using the above test… Luckily she was a Rottie (no tail) and we had a good view of the area… Tracey D.

Response:

Hello tracy, FORGET ABOUT IT.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Another tip for testing if the bitch is receptive… > Put your finger near the enlarged vulva, if it moves toward the > pressure of the finger – get her locked up!!! > As for the bleeding – we had a dog who kept herself extremely clean > when she was in season – we could only tell by looking at the vulva, > and using the above test… Luckily she was a Rottie (no tail) and we > had a good view of the area… > Tracey D.

Response:

Hello professora,

> Ah, the glorious onset of puberty–otherwise known > as that first heat.

Her dog may be in heat, maybe not. She’s asking. I didn’t pruse the physical aspects of it in my post to the OP. > Keep her away from all other males, do not leave her > outside in your fenced-in yard (you’d be amazed at > what obstacles canine Romeos can surmount–or dig > under), and remember that she will be at her most > receptive about one week after she stops "bleeding."

Is that so professora? Bitches are in heat 21 days. The most fertile time is the middle of the cycle. Bitches can get pregnant from day one to twenty one, and that’s the end of it. > More to the point, if her vulva is engorged (looking > larger and softer), she is entering her first heat.

I’d rely on presence or absence of blood. > avrama & baruch > the academic factor

Now, why don’t you tell us if the definition of chin cuff STILL "DEFINEITELY DOES NOT MEAN HIT THE DOG?" You’ve got a few PROBLEMS with HURTING DOGS professora. THAT’S why YOUR dog bashed your damn teeth down your throat, because you’d been jerking and choking him, and trying to play it off like it was his fault, AN ACCIDENT. YOU taught him to be SNEAKY, like yourelf. He learned to come running FAST, and to whack you out "BY ACCIDENT", in the same manner as you’d been HURTING HIM. > <>the most beautiful dog in the world is the one who > <>looks at you with love.

INDEED. And a little RESPECT, eh professora? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I have an 8 month old female airedale puppy.  The past 2 weeks she has > been > behaving extremely bad and has been humping me alot, along with biting me > much more than usual.  I have never owned a female dog so I don’t know > what > to expect……is this normal for this age?  Will this pass?

Response:

Ah, the glorious onset of puberty–otherwise known as that first heat.  Keep her away from all other males, do not leave her outside in your fenced-in yard (you’d be amazed at what obstacles canine Romeos can surmount–or dig under), and remember that she will be at her most receptive about one week after she stops "bleeding." More to the point, if her vulva is engorged (looking larger and softer), she is entering her first heat. — avrama & baruch the academic factor <>the most beautiful dog in the world is the one who looks at you with love. <>

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I have an 8 month old female airedale puppy.  The past 2 weeks she has been > behaving extremely bad and has been humping me alot, along with biting me > much more than usual.  I have never owned a female dog so I don’t know what > to expect……is this normal for this age?  Will this pass?

Response:

these words: > I have an 8 month old female airedale puppy.  The > past 2 weeks she has been behaving extremely bad > and has been humping me alot, along with biting > me much more than usual.  I have never owned a > female dog so I don’t know what to expect……is > this normal for this age?  Will this pass? > No, it will not pass until you learn to teach her not to > do that.  What dog training books have you read?

YOU got any book suggestions? Most of your pals here recommend the koehler book. Seems to me, YOU said to read it, even told us where to find it. Tell us which books made YOU so smart, eh blackman? You’re a blowhard. You knit little coverups for your pronged choke collar so your pals won’t see what you’re doing to your dogs. > When is the last time you took a class > that taught you how to train your dog?

Good question. That could be what’s causing the trouble. I didn’t want to ask her, because I didn’t want to make her feel guilty about perhaps causing this behavior because of her training program, if that’s the case. No need for me to know or care about the past, it’s just a point of curiousity. That’s what happened to Fritz, you know. Got him DEAD, remember? Robert used to be very pupular here, till his training killed his dog. Cubbe’s next. lia’s going to hurt him, and he’s gonna bite someone, and she’s gonna get DEAD too. Funny that you’d rather see that happen, than tell her to listen to me… > I think it is time for a refresher.

I think it’s time you stopped misleading people and learned to give people accurate information that will solve their problems, or find yourself something else to keep you busy, maybe contract work for a book of lists or something where you won’t be giving people misinfomation about their dogs no MOORE. We don’t need twenty thousand trainers to call, we just need a few good ones. YOU SAID YOU DON’T KNOW ENOUGH TO DISCERN GOOD LINKS ON YOUR SITE, FROM CRUMMY ONES, like your pal cindymooreon’s FAQ’S page at k9 web. That’s about as vicious as they come.. Your pal cindymooreon’s been banned from two obedience clubs. Come up with a list of dog trainer I’LL approve of, and then you’ve got something respectable. <snip links> > Diane Blackman > http://www.dog-play.com  http://www.dog-play.com/TOTE.html > Re: Jerry Howe http://www.dog-play.com/jerry.html > Be true to your own principles, and hold to them, > else complain not when the world runs contrary.

I see you’re flying the Jolly Roger… You know damn well that many of our own Gang Of Thugs members belong to those organizations. There’s no prerequisites to being a member of any of those organizations that will insure a competent trainer is found through them.  You’re likely to refer these poor people to the likes of someone who’ll HURT their dogs, like janet boss who’ll jerk and choke their dogs on pronged choke collars and crate them, or to some mooreon like boob maida, who’ll probably end up hanging her dog for her… or the "EXPERTS" who trained these bums. EVEN BETTER, HUH? She could do a lot worse than following the instructions in the Wits’ End Dog Training Method manual, WOULDN’T YOU AGREE? You certainly remember your pal lyingdogDUMMY telling Paul B and MBITTNER that he’d NEED to HURT their dogs MOORE than THEY’D LIKE, to break a little poo eating (loved your recipie for hot & spicy), hole digging, and fence jumping. They fixed their dog behavior problems following the instructions in the Wits’ End Dog Training Method manual available for FREE at http://www.doggydoright.com in just a few minutes over a couple of days, and they didn’t NEED to HURT NOBODY. Ask yourself "WHY DOESN’T JERRY HURT DOGS TO TRAIN THEM?" And then just answer "BECAUSE HE KNOWS HOWE TO TRAIN DOGS WITHOUT HURTING THEM." And THEN SAY "IGNORE JERRY, HE’S MEAN TO DOG ABUSERS." YOU can’t tell her where to find any BETTER information… than the information available for FREE in the Wits’ End Dog Training Method manual at http://www.doggydoright.com CAN YOU, blackman? You can get all the information you need to PROPERLY handle and train your dog using non force, non confronatational, scientific and psychological methods, in the Wits’ End Dog Training Method manual available for free at http://www.doggydoright.com The Wits’ End Dog Training Method manual is provided courtesy of  the BIOSOUND Scientific Elves as an alternative to Doggy Do Right (and Kitty Will Too). Your pal, Jerry "The Phony," Howe

Response:

> I have an 8 month old female airedale puppy.  The past 2 weeks she has been > behaving extremely bad and has been humping me alot, along with biting me > much more than usual.  I have never owned a female dog so I don’t know what > to expect……is this normal for this age?  Will this pass?

No, it will not pass until you learn to teach her not to do that.  What dog training books have you read?  When is the last time you took a class that taught you how to train your dog?  I think it is time for a refresher.  See if these links can help you find a good trainer near you: American Dog Trainers Network http://www.inch.com/~dogs/articles.html N.A.D.O.I. – the National Association of Dog Obedience Instructors. http://www.nadoi.org/ The Association of Pet Dog Trainers – USA http://www.apdt.com Dog Trainer’s Forum, Trainer Search page http://www.dogforum.com/search.shtml Diane Blackman   http://www.dog-play.com  http://www.dog-play.com/TOTE.html Re: Jerry Howe http://www.dog-play.com/jerry.html Be true to your own principles, and hold to them, else complain not when the world runs contrary.

Response:

Kathy, Beware of Jerry Howe. Jerry Howe is only here to sell you his dubious $100 electronic training device. That is where the link he posts takes you. His "free training manual" offer is the bait for his underhanded "bait & switch" scam. (An unhappy purchaser of Jerry’s $100 training device has posted a review at: If Jerry were an honest person he would post a genuine link to the "free training  manual" & not try to scam every new person on the newsgroup. Unfortunately he refuses to do so and, as you can see by his posts, viciously attacks, slanders, and lies about anyone who disagrees with him in any way. Recently, Jerry Howe encouraged a poster in this very newsgroup to: , & I quote, " P.S. Take a couple of Tylenol with cyaninde. " EdW http://Petloss.com/inthenws.htm

Response:

Hello Kathy,

> I have an 8 month old female airedale puppy.

Nice dogs. > The past 2 weeks she has been behaving extremely > bad and has been humping me alot,

O.K. I’ll teach you HOWE to break that behavior. > along with biting me much more than usual.

That too. >  I have never owned a female dog so I don’t know > what to expect……is this normal for this age?

You’re wondering if this has something to do with her heat cycle. It may or may not. Bitches usually come into heat any time around 8-14 months of age. She may having some hormone things going on, or could be an adolescent thing, could be just play. Whatever it is, don’t get disturbed by it. You need to be unemotional, or you’ll inspire her to continue doing more. You need to calm her down, by example. Whatever the cause, I’m not concerned with it. People here are going to tell you it’s a dominance thing and you’ve got to take a firm hand with her. They’ll tell you to take her to obedience school and do the nilif program and maybe to alpha roll her like cindymooreon depends on (she’s been banned from two obedience clubs), before she gets any more out of control. They’ll tell you everything to do to make her behave, HOWE to correct her and HOWE to domnate her, and HOWE to restrict her to a crate, and they’ll tell you everything, except what to do after their training recommendations cause the dog to become resentful and aggressive towards you. Then they’ll run out of bright ideas, and tell you to kill your dog, to be fair… >  Will this pass?

In about two days if you follow my instructions in the Wits’ End Dog Training Method manual available for FREE at http://www.doggydoright.com Or, you can follow the advice you’ll be getting from the "experts" here, our Gang Of Thugs who ONLY KNOW HOWE to hurt dogs to train them… They’ll tell you not to listen to me. Ask them why they crate and jerk and choke dogs on pronged choke collars, and shock them, and why do they twist and pinch Retriever dog’s ears and toes and beat them with sticks, to make them do the most natural thing in the world for a Retriever dogs to do, retrieve a dead birdie.? You can get all the information you need to PROPERLY handle and train your dog using non force, non confronatational, scientific and psychological methods, in the Wits’ End Dog Training Method manual available for free at http://www.doggydoright.com The Wits’ End Dog Training Method manual is provided courtesy of  the BIOSOUND Scientific Elves as an alternative to Doggy Do Right (and Kitty Will Too). Your pal, Jerry "The Phony," Howe

Response:

I have an 8 month old female airedale puppy.  The past 2 weeks she has been behaving extremely bad and has been humping me alot, along with biting me much more than usual.  I have never owned a female dog so I don’t know what to expect……is this normal for this age?  Will this pass?

Response:

Biting Dog

Question:

I am sorry your friend is behaving this way….I used to have the same problem with my wife……kidding!!! This is a "serious" problem and your friend deserves all of the help he can get. -If you wish to get assistance and feed-back for this at length go to: http://www.egroups.com/group.Dog_Problems My name is Gerry Bourgeois. I am a retired Canadian Army Major, Military Police.  I was stationed at the War Dog School in Edmonton Canada and further co-ordinate war dog training for the Canadian Armed Forces. — I assisted with dog training and handling at Lahr Germany and Canadian Forces Base Baden Baden from 1971 to 1976. — My site is free and I usually only deal with the most difficult of dogs. Hope to see you. — Regards Gerry

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> What breed do you have? A poodle, a rottweiler, a lab, what? > Help my dog is 10 months old and bites.  I have tried everything. Holding > him down, stationing him, spraying water at him. He jumps and bites and if > he is repremanded he barks at me.  I need help

Response:

A dog that jumps up and "bites" me is "acting/playing" aggressively and inappropriately and in need of training in my book. An interesting article on biting is at http://www.good-dawg.com/gooddawg/hot_topics_aggression.htm It might be helpful to understand dog behaviors and communication. 10 months old means it will be harder to stop the biting behavior, but it can be done. If the owner can afford a trainer, that would be the way to go.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Help my dog is 10 months old and bites.  I have tried everything.  Holding > him down, stationing him, spraying water at him. He jumps and bites and if > he is repremanded he barks at me.  I need help

Response:

Hello d, > A dog that jumps up and "bites" me

ME. It’s ALWAYS ME, with you guys, isn’t it??? Everything revolves around your own ego’s and inferiority complexes… > is "acting/playing" aggressively and inappropriately

NO DOUBT. That’s not in question. > and in need of training in my book.

INDEED. The dog is only doing what dogs do. Nature has programmed dogs to learn housebreaking and to follow their leader and to work as pack members. Most dog behavior problems are a result of US doing what PEOPLE do, when they don’t understand the Nature of the Beast. They take jumping and mouthing as a sign of disrespect for their AUTHORITY. koehler is a master at making these issues PERSONAL, so he can get our dimwits to HURT dogs to the extent necessary to DOMINATE and force control over them. They force control, crate dogs to teach them not to mess in YOUR house, and punish BAD behaviors (and not the dog, as lyingdoc dermers claims…) and then they wonder why the dog won’t come, won’t housebreak, chew and bark incessantly, won’t protect their homes, and try to escape over and under their shock fences, and try to run away from "home." EVERYTHING you’ve been taught in "dog school" and the books is designed to set YOU into physical opposition and emotional conflict with your dogs. That’s what this is all about. We FEAR dog’s behaviors, so we resort to force, intimidation, and confinement, to teach friendliness, gentleness, and to keep our house clean, like his crate.. This is a stretch of my imagination, even on a good day. So, do whatever turns you on. Go shopping for a trainer who only hurts dogs when necessary. Only shock your dogs when you run out of information and ideas, and bury your mistakes… And keep posting here, because this is where your like minded Thugs hang out. Your pal, Jerry "The Phony," Howe.

"Nope. That "beating dogs with sticks" things is something you twisted out of context, because you are full of bizarro manure." QUOTE from lyingfrosty dahl: "Get a stick 30- or 40-inches long. You can have a helper wield the stick, or do it yourself. Tougher, less tractable dogs may require you to progress to striking them more sharply. REPEAT, VARYING HOW HARD YOU HIT THE DOG" moore lyingfrosty dahl: "I would never advise anyone to slap a dog I do not believe there is a single circumstance, ever, where slapping a dog is anything but destructive." RIGHT. She PINCHES, not twists… and chin cuff doesn’t mean hit, according to lyinglynn and avrama… says our "EXPERT," lyingfrosty dahl. She twists and pinches ears and toes, shocks, beats dogs with sticks, and chin cuffs and scruff shakes them. And she LIES about it. She denies her own written words… amy lyingfrosty dahl continues: Make the dog’s need to stop the pinching so urgent that resisting your will fades in importance. but will squeal, thrash around, and direct their efforts to escaping the ear pinch even get a studded collar and pinch the ear against that if the dog still does not open its mouth, get out the shotshell. Try pinching the ear between the metal casing and the collar, even the buckle on the collar. Persist! Eventually, the dog will give in" With your hand on the collar and ear, say, ‘fetch.’ Immediately tap the dog on the hindquarters with the stick. Repeat "fetch" and pinch the ear all the way to the dummy. You can press the dog’s ear with a shotshell instead of your thumb; Say "fetch" while pressing the dummy against its lips and pinching its ear. Gotta LOVE koehler. dahl makes koheler look like St. Francis. Try the quiz??? Tell us HOWE the dog knows he shouldn’t be barking? That is, until the beatings take effect, after ENOUGH lessons of "hard spankings of long duration??? It’s IN THE BOOK. Tell us HOWE COME you think dogs might want to take a big chunk out of an abusive Thug who beats him every twenty minutes for crappin on the floor in a room you’ve restricted him to for this purpose, and then tied him next to a forced accident? And when koehler OCCASIONALLY finds a dog who objects to his training, why does he HANG the dog, instead of calming them down and teaching them there’s nothing to be afraid of??? Koehler On Correcting The Housebreaking Backslider. "If the punishment is not severe enough, some of these "backsliders" will think they’re winning and will continue to mess in the house. An indelible impression can sometimes be made by giving the dog a hard spanking of long duration, then leaving him tied by the mess he’s made so you can come back at twenty minute intervals and punish him again for the same thing. (Dogs are REALLY stupid. J.H.) HOWE does koehler KNOW the dog don’t think he’s coming back to beat him every twenty minutes for the same mistake, just because you’re mad at him, instead of just TRAINING him??? See what I mean? You can’t justify that. "Read koehler for content" marquis de shaw, IDIOT, Sadist, rpdb regular. "I LOVE KOHELER" lyinglynn, IDIOT, pathological liar, noted dog abuser. Koehler On Correcting The Barking Dog Thunder through the door or gate, snatch up the belt that you’ve conveniently placed, and descend on him. He’ll have no chance to dodge if you grab the line and reel him in until his front feet are  raised off the floor or, if he’s a big dog, until you’ve snubbed him up with a hitch on something (ceiling hook, rafters, tree limb, door, or even over your shoulder, if you know HOWE. j.h.) While he’s held in close, lay the strap vigorously against his thighs. Keep pouring it on him until he thinks it’s the bitter end. A real whaling now may cut down somewhat on the number of repeat performances that will be necessary. When you’re finished and the dog is convinced that he is, put him on a long down to think things over while you catch your breath. After fifteen or twenty minutes, release him from the stay and leave the area again." Tell us HOWE the dog knows he shouldn’t be barking? That is, until the beatings take effect, after ENOUGH lessons of "hard spankings of long duration??? It’s IN THE  BOOK. Tell us  HOWE COME you think dogs might want to take a big chunk out of an abusive Thug who beats him every twenty minutes for crappin on the floor in a room you’ve restricted him to for this purpose, and then tied him next to a forced accident? And when koehler OCCASIONALLY finds a dog who objects to his training, why does he HANG the dog, instead of calming them down and teaching them there’s nothing to be afraid of??? That’s the ONLY question ANYONE of you CAN answer. The answer is OBVIOUS. koehler trainers are DOG ABUSING COWARDS Your pal, Jerry "The Phony," Howe.

Response:

Do you think the breed MATTERS? A dog IS a dog. Your pal, Jerry "The Phony," Howe.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> What breed do you have? A poodle, a rottweiler, a lab, what? > Help my dog is 10 months old and bites.  I have tried everything. Holding > him down, stationing him, spraying water at him. He jumps and bites and if > he is repremanded he barks at me.  I need help

Response:

Hello d, > The obvious answer is for both of you to get to an > animal trainer for some intensive work so you both > learn how to control his aggressive tendencies.

For starters, you aren’t likely to find a trainer who is competent to deal with this kind of behavior problem. "Intensive work" and "control" are going to make the dog VICIOUS, and get him KILLED. Furthermore, the dog is only PLAYING. > I would ask around amongst friends (or > ask your vet) who are dog savvy for the name of a > respected trainer who doesn’t use any > extreme/controversial training methods.

They probably won’t find any better trainers than the bums we’ve got here… > BTW, was he neutered?

Neutering for behavior problems is ridiculous. This isn’t a reproductive problem, it’s hyperactivity. You can get all the INFORMATION you need to properly handle, control, and train your dog, using scientific and psychological, non force, non confrontational methods, from the Wits’ End Dog Training Method manual available for free at http://www.doggydoright.com The Wits’ End Dog Training Method manual is provided by the BIOSOUND Scientific Elves as an alternative to Doggy Do Right (and Kitty Will Too). Your pal, Jerry "The Phony," Howe.

Response:

Help my dog is 10 months old and bites.  I have tried everything.  Holding him down, stationing him, spraying water at him. He jumps and bites and if he is repremanded he barks at me.  I need help

Response:

What breed do you have? A poodle, a rottweiler, a lab, what? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Help my dog is 10 months old and bites.  I have tried everything.  Holding > him down, stationing him, spraying water at him. He jumps and bites and if > he is repremanded he barks at me.  I need help

Response:

The obvious answer is for both of you to get to an animal trainer for some intensive work so you both learn how to control his aggressive tendencies. I would ask around amongst friends (or ask your vet) who are dog savvy for the name of a respected trainer who doesn’t use any extreme/controversial  training methods. BTW, was he neutered?

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Help my dog is 10 months old and bites.  I have tried everything.  Holding > him down, stationing him, spraying water at him. He jumps and bites and if > he is repremanded he barks at me.  I need help

Response:

It sounds to me like the dog is playing. He is not indicating the dog is aggressive. It sounds like he’s nipping, then dancing out of arm’s reach. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> The obvious answer is for both of you to get to an animal trainer for some > intensive work so you both learn how to > control his aggressive tendencies. I would ask around amongst friends (or > ask your vet) who are dog savvy for the name of a respected trainer who > doesn’t use any extreme/controversial  training methods. BTW, was he > neutered? > Help my dog is 10 months old and bites.  I have tried everything. Holding > him down, stationing him, spraying water at him. He jumps and bites and if > he is repremanded he barks at me.  I need help

Response:

Who IS Jerry Howe???

Question:

Jerry Howe this is your life   http://www.i1.net/~dogman/jerry.html Before you buy.

Response:

> > What does it mean to killfile someone, and how do I do it? > news.announce.newusers   Usenet or the web. > Jack

Here’s Soup’s killfile advice: Hello Soup, Sounds like BUNK to me… What evidence do you have to support your proposition the brain is really capable of recognizing and discriminating good from bad information??? There is NO EVIDENCE whatsoever supporting what you suggest here, and I think you are just trying to SCAM good people out of their minds, by making them use them all up… PEOPLE!!! Don’t listen to this scam artist who only wants you to think so he can scam you out of you mind while it is being preoccupied with his distraction technique… Don’t be fooled! Thinking can be dangerous! Reading information will give you ideas. Caveat Emptor. Jerry.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> HOW TO FILTER POSTS ON NEWSGROUPS WITHOUT KILLFILES > A SUPERDOG STATION EXCLUSIVE > I’ve found this incredible way to filter posts which I want > to share with you all, actually, I’ve been using it for a > few years now and you won’t believe it when I tell you how > powerful it is…I know this sounds complicated, but all you > have to do is look at posts/threads, decide which you think > you might want to read, and then read them.  The ones you > don’t want to read, (listen carefully now…you don’t > read). > You see, you actually use something called your "BraIN" and > believe it or not, your eyes cooperate and if your "BraIN" > tells them not to read something, they won’t.  Of course, > your hand has to cooperate with your brain by not clicking > unless it is told to. > Sexual predators, Heads of State, mimes, and people with > Parkinson’s Disease often have trouble controlling their > hands, but most everyone else should be okay. > Scientists have proven the filtering ability of the brain > with double blind experiments in Rhesus Monkeys.  Of course, > many critics argue that doubly blinded monkeys are rendered > poor subjects for experiments involving sight and/or > perception, but what do these yahyahhing critics know > anyway? > Anyway, this "BraIN" thing is really cool.  Many of you > people should try it sometime.  It’s good for other things > besides newsgroups too!  You can impress all your friends > and neighbors with it, and you can even use it to seduce > older teenagers like Britney Spears, middle-aged teenagers > like Christina Aguilera or even brand spankin new teenagers > like Mandy Moore, if they live close by. > DISCLAIMER: > (please do not trespass on private property to seduce > teenagers, regardless of age, unless you get written > permission from their parents or guardians). > HOW TO USE YOUR BRAIN IN NETSCAPE > Instead of filtering people, I filter threads and posts.  I > typically read about 10-20% of the posts here, because I > don’t have time to read them all….in Netscape, I just read > the ones I want to read, then I hit SHIFT-C (which marks all > messages read) > Or…the long way by clicking up top > Messages—> > Mark—-> > all read > Then I just close the window and I’m done.  Then next time I > open it, only new messages appear.  If I find an interesting > thread, where I want to go back and read the whole thing, I > can go back and mark the whole thread unread and read it. > View—> > Messages—> > all > HOW TO USE YOUR BRAIN IN OUTLOOK > read the help > HOW TO USE YOUR BRAIN IN AGENT > read the help > HOW TO USE YOUR BRAIN IN AOL > obviously, if you use AOL for newsgroups you can’t > JUST KIDDING!  I was just yah yahhing you there. > read the help > HOW TO USE YOUR BRAIN IN EUDORA > read the help > HOW TO USE YOUR BRAIN IN XNEWS > read the help > HOW TO USE YOUR BRAIN in other programs, > see above and extrapolate (a fancy way of using your brain) > Yours for dogs, law and order, the American Way, and the > keeping of the ruffians, the ya yahhers, the troublemakers, > the cat callers, and the "up to no good" at bay… > This is Michael > Reporting Live… > http://dogtv.com

Response:

>Dianne has a post about how to killfile with various newsreaders (a deja >search should show the article, but maybe someone can repost it).

Glad you asked! Reposted by popular demand: Most, though not all, newsreaders enable you to automatically mark certain posts or threads as read. This is usually referred to as a killfile or a filter. Instructions on how to create a killfile for some of the more common newsreaders are below. If yours isn’t listed, try looking in your browser under "help." Disclaimer: These instructions have been compiled from a variety of sources. I only use rn myself so if the instructions below can’t help you, I can’t either. Conversely, if you have any additions or corrections to this list, please feel free to email me at reposted. Many, many thanks to everyone who’s contributed!–Dianne AGENT    Pull down the ‘Window’ on the Menu. Go to Usenet Filters and click on    that.    The first icon on the toolbox should be to ‘Add Kill Filter’. Click    on that.    The edit window will come up. In the area ‘Filter Expression’, write    ’Jerry Howe’. And then under ‘Kill Action’, mark whatever little    button you want. AOL 5.0 (note: versions prior to 5.0 lack killfiles)    From the newsgroups window, choose preferences and a window will open    that says, "Global newsgroup preferences." Click on the filtering    tab (there should be filtering, viewing, and posting tabs). Select    filter type from the pulldown menu. Enter the filter in the text field    below the pulldown menu. Then click on the "add filter" button below    the text field. Then click "save" at the bottom of the page, and    you’re done. FREE AGENT    Regrettably, Free Agent does not have a filter feature. Shell out    the few bucks for the upgrade; I’m told you won’t regret it. MT NEWSREADER FOR THE MAC:    Lets you killfile in a large number of ways. When a window showing    one article is foremost (and when an article is highlighted in a window    showing the list of articles for a group), a couple of entries on the    ’Filter’ submenu of the Edit menu are enabled. These are ‘Filter this    author…’ and ‘Filter this subject…’, which create author or subject    filters for the active articles respectively. NETSCAPE COMMUNICATOR    Under the Edit Menu, choose the Message Filters… command.    In the resulting dialog box, click the New button to define a new    filter. Give the filter a name, like "Filter Jerry."    Set the criteria for the filter. For example, "sender is Jerry Howe"    or "subject contains ninnyboy".    Select what to do with filtered messages (delete, ignore, etc…)    Click OK. You may have to disconnect and reconnect for it to take    effect. OUTLOOK EXPRESS 5.0    Go to the toolbar at the top of any post written by the person you    wish to banish from your computer. Click on "Message"; then, on the    drop-down menu, click on "Block Sender".    To filter out certain messages rather than blocking a sender entirely    you can create message ‘rules.’ Say you want to filter out all messages    containing ‘ninnyboy’ in the subject line. Go to Message, Create Rule    from Message. Select the condition for each message rule you want to    create and apply. RN & TRN    To create a global killfile in either of these newsreaders, create a    file in your News directory called KILL (this must be in all capital    letters). Use any text editor to enter the following line into it:    newsgroup you read. TIN    Read a message from the person you want to killfile or with the subject    heading you want to killfile. While that’s on the screen, hit ctrl and    k at the same time (^k).    A questionaire type screen appears.  Return is like saying yes.  Space    will toggle from the "subject header" to the "sent from" line.  In    other words, you can choose to kill anything from a particular person    or to kill anything with a particular word in the subject heading.      I recommend killfiling people instead of killfiling words because I    might want to kill a subject about "lying dirt bags" today but want to    read something about a dog "lying in dirt" tomorrow.  The people stay    more constant than the subject lines.    Toggle with the space bar until you have the combination you want and    then hit return several times to send.  The subject line and sent from    line should already be typed in if you were in the message screen when    you hit ctrl k.    Doesn’t work?  There’s a question that reads kill pattern.  Sometimes I    have to type in the person’s name exactly the way it reads on the sent    from line.  I’m not sure why. X-NEWS    When reading an article, press ‘k’ to add the poster to the plonk    file. It will then ask you for an expiration period – 100 days is    the default.  If you want a person permanently zapped, change "100"    to "0". XRN (At least, version 9.02.  Don’t know about earlier versions)    With an article from the troll in question selected, hold shift    while clicking the "Author Kill" button to kill for the current    group. To kill for ALL groups, use the Control key instead of    the shift key.

Response:

>     Thanks for the warning, Kim. :) >     I’d offer a word of warning about our resident troll HOWEdy > doody, for you, in exchange for this info. :) >     Be forewarned, don’t be fooled by his sig file or his thinly > veiled ‘niceness’. (Ick it even hurt my fingers to type those words on a > sentence, together.) <G>

Yes, it should hurt you. Here’s an introduction to marybeth’s friends.  http://www.dobbsdogs.com/library/schutzhund/schh3.htm lyingfrostydahly: ">>>Get a stick 30- or 40-inches long. You can have a helper wield the stick, or do it yourself. Tougher, less tractable dogs may require you to progress to striking them more sharply.>>> >> With your hand on the collar and ear, say, "fetch."

Immediately tap the dog on the hindquarters with the stick. Repeat "fetch" and pinch the ear all the way to the dummy. >>Repeat, varying how hard you hit the dog,>>>"

Wouldn’t you think that was despicable enough even just writing that, let alone risk suffering the embarrassment of not only having that attributed to yourself, but in fact denying your best work and PROVING YOURSELF A SHAMELESS LIAR AND ADVOCATE OF DOG ABUSE??? YOUR pals make it EASY for me to RUIN THEIR REPUTATIONS… and cause them irreparable HARM in their ”field of expertise”… if they just stop posting, I’ll have to WORK at discrediting you bums. Do the rescue folks KNOW HOWE your pals twist and pinch dog’s ears and toes, and jerk, choke, and shock dogs because they’ve got so many dogs to HELP and such little time to do it in??? Does anybody know HOWE a dog sounds when he’s SQUEALING because his ears or toes are being pinched and twisted? Cindy moore and amy dahl do. Ask them. They’ll tell you they don’t twist? They’ll tell you they don’t hurt? cindymoron’ll tell you she’s DEAF, and she can’t HEAR them scream, so it doesn’t mean anything to her. Prove there’s even any sound when dogs scream because she’s hurting them… She’ll tell you that FEAR, FORCE, AND PUNISHMENT is necessary for ALL "ADVANCED TRAINING", to enhance the bond between "trainer" and dog and achieve the higher aspects of obedience through TWISTING and PINCHING EARS and TOES, and BEATING DOGS WITH STICKS… Let’s hear cindy moore and pals SQUEAL for a change. Ask her about the toe hitch. Ask her about "table work." Ask her why she HURTS dogs, and calls that training? Ask her why she WON’T answer these questions like her pal lyingfrostydahly did below, when she EARNED HER LYING TITLE??? Here’s what our respected friend and rpdb contributor amy dahl has to say about ear and toe pinching and twisting and BEATING DOGS WITH STICKS to MOTIVATE them. TELL US YOU DON’T DO THE SAME THINGS, cindymoron…: Amy Dahl LIES with a straight face and says: >>> I don’t beat dogs, twist ears, or pinch toes. > > http://www.oakhillkennel.com/library/force/force1.html > > http://www.oakhillkennel.com/library/force/force2.html???

Aren’t those YOUR OWN WORDS??? But YOU don’t DO THAT??? People, this is HOWE consistency works, and most particularly well with dogs, because here, the same methods are being used to INFLUENCE YOU, and YOU certainly are more intellectually capable of solving problems and have greater critical thinking skills than your dogs…, and these methods work on YOU. >> That article, reprinted from The Retriever Journal, is >> the words of my husband John and myself.

Meaning "We’ll share the credit, making it more credible??? Or we’ll share the blame, to mitigate our own individual responsibility and guilt…" YOU decide, it’s not my business where the blame falls. >>> For the benefit of anyone who is in doubt, and who chooses >>> not to read the article, there is NO mention in it of "twisting >>> ears,"

From the text">>>" ">>>Now you are ready to progress to what most people think of as force-fetching: the ear pinch.>>> >>"but will squeal, thrash around, and direct their efforts to

escaping the ear pinch>>> >>You can press the dog’s ear with a shotshell instead of your

thumb;>>> >> even get a studded collar and pinch the ear against

that>>> >> Make the dog’s need to stop the pinching so urgent that

resisting your will fades in importance.>>> >>Say "fetch" while pressing the dummy against its lips and pinching

its ear.>>> >> if the dog still does not open its mouth, get out the shotshell.

Try pinching the ear between the metal casing and the collar, even the buckle on the collar. Persist! Eventually, the dog will give in>>>" Right… Didn’t lyingfrostydahly just deny all of that? There’s more… That was just a little about ear pinching, and no there was NO MENTION of twisting ears… cindy moore has all that information for you… Does it really matter? The semantics of whether we’re twisting or pinching or slapping or hitting or correcting or nicking instead of BURNING??? The only terminology that doesn’t have any NEAT euphemisms to take the CURSE off what our respected "trainers" actually MEAN (see definitions of punishment thread), is HANGING to REHABILITATE the dog, as ALL of our Koehler fans MUST endorse. Also notice the use of "it" for dog and "the" for him or YOUR DOG. That’s not coincidental, it’s all part of the psychologically and very cleverly designed DESENSITIZATION and MISINFORMATION necessary to REDUCE a good person to ACCEPT and DO HORRIBLE THINGS to dogs and TRYING to call ABUSE training. These are the subtle differences between being an expert dog trainer and some morally bankrupt vicious rotten abusive cretin that goes to jail for abusing dogs…  But don’t lose interest now folks, there’s more… >> NO mention whatsoever of dogs’ toes in any context, >> and NO mention of "beating" dogs.

RIGHT… . lyingfrostydahly: ">>>Get a stick 30- or 40-inches long. You can have a helper wield the stick, or do it yourself. Tougher, less tractable dogs may require you to progress to striking them more sharply.>>> >> With your hand on the collar and ear, say, "fetch."

Immediately tap the dog on the hindquarters with the stick. Repeat "fetch" and pinch the ear all the way to the dummy. >>Repeat, varying how hard you hit the dog,>>>"

Wouldn’t you think that was despicable enough even just writing that, let alone risk suffering the embarrassment of not only having that attributed to yourself, but in fact denying your best work and PROVING YOURSELF A SHAMELESS LIAR AND ADVOCATE OF DOG ABUSE??? But it goes on… >> chuck (for the uninitiated, "chuck" means strike) the dog

under the chin with your ever-ready right hand while saying "No!">>> >>If the dog drops it, chuck (slap) it solidly under the chin, say

"No! Hold!"  use a chuck (slap) under the chin or pinch its ear and place the dummy in its mouth.>>> >> If it doesn’t make rapid progress, you can increase the

pressure by requiring it to pick up the dropped dummy (stay on the ear until it does).>>> >>(perhaps because the ear is getting tender, or the dog has

decided it isn’t worth it).>>> pinch its ear and say, "fetch,">>> Here we have consistency and a plea for reason, directly in contradiction to the blackman and white facts signed and published by our expert trainer…  Accordingly, the consistency of constant repetitions of your requests for understanding and compliance from your dogs, dictates that YOU WILL GET IT. So long as you are consistent and keep repeating the exact same scenario, no matter what… Including and especially when you calculatedly and intentionally deny the truth and make your requests seem reasonable, THEY EXPECT YOU TO BELIEVE that such behavior is NORMAL. > In our training we do not do any of these things, nor do we > advocate them to others.

See what I mean? Character, morals, ethics, integrity, human decency? 0.000%. Not a shred. She might have scored 0.001 had she NOT LIED ABOUT IT. >>"Any refusals are corrected with the ear pinch. When

performance is smooth, the stick can be added just as in the fetch from a sitting position. If the previous steps have been carefully done, the dog will soon be lunging eagerly for each dummy as soon as it sees it.>>> This is HOWE they get that happy excited working attitude that they all talk about… That’s their criteria for making their dogs happy, willing team mates…They BEAT IT INTO THE DOG. That’s WHY Jerry’s HIGH-STAKES challenge to frantik fraud die… His dog isn’t working, she’s AVOIDING GETTING BURNED…I’ll walk away with HIS national champion "protection" dog and show him up for the vicious, loudmouthed ignoramus he is. And there’s a jail cell waiting for cindy moore if she ever demonstrates HER forced fetch in front of A JURY composed of ANY DECENT human beings. > Jerry Howe has once again demonstrated his lack of > reading comprehension.

Right. Perhaps that’s because I get a little disturbed with all of the abuse, and I begin reading more into it than what the author intended???… >>"Slip an empty shotshell into your pocket before the next

session. As always, begin with some review. Then sit the dog. Take hold of its buckle collar and ear as follows. Slide the last three fingers of your left hand towards the dog’s head under the collar, and curl them over the collar to grasp it firmly. With your thumb and index finger, pull the dog’s left ear back over the collar (inside up) and hold it there gently. The "ear pinch" is administered by pressing with your thumbnail at the boundary between hair and bare skin (don’t pinch yet). Depending on the size and strength of your hands, you may want to press against the collar or against your index finger.>>> >>You want it to get the idea that the ear-pinch means,>>> If

the dog clenches its mouth shut, you may be in for another extended session. Keep pinching and press the dummy harder against the dog’s lips.>>> >>Repeat "fetch." Again, keep your voice calm. If several

minutes pass and>>> You don’t want the dog to think … read more »

Response:

>What would YOU do to stop your dogs from eating poo before it hits the ground???

Shove a DDR up his ass, it solves any problem

Response:

Hello People, Here’s a "VITAL WARNING" from our respected behaviorist, an educator who PUNISHES DOG’S BEHAVIORS, and NOT THE DOG, associate professor of behavior at Wisconsin University, our own esteemed marshall lyingdoc dermer: > lyingdoc dermer writes: > Dear Readers and Contributors: > I have appended below my second attempt at a FAQ about > Jerry’s products.

Products? I offer the Wits’ End Dog Training Method manual, a FREE, comprehensive text on training WITHOUT FORCE, FEAR, CONFRONTATION, OR PUNISHMENT… Our respected professor NEVER bothered to READ the text, at least NOT PAST the part in the introduction where I CONDEMN the universities and their BOGUS "professors" who teach us to CONFRONT AND PUNISH DOGS for their behavior, instead of TEACHING US SCIENTIFIC METHODS to modify behavior WITHOUT HURTING DOGS. AND, I offer FOR SALE, Doggy Do Right (and Kitty Will Too) http://www.doggydoright.com , a remarkable sound program that REHABILITATES DOG and CAT BEHAVIOR PROBLEMS such as FEAR OF THUNDER, separation anxiety, excessive barking, HYPERACTIVITY, car sickness, and fighting and spraying in cats, to name a FEW behaviors Doggy Do Right (and Kitty Will Too) can CURE WITHOUT TRAINING. > Here are my thoughts:

This ought to be good, doc… > 1. The "FAQ" is now better described as a "Concerns About" > page.

Meaning there is NO SUBSTANCE to your "CONCERNS"… > 2. I am most in debt to Terri for she posted a first draft, but I >   did not use all her suggestions. This is basically because I >   felt that although her suggestions differed in detail, the basic >   problem was the same: Jerry had failed to adequately >   support his claim(s).

Here, our good doc is relying on HELP from a vicious, incompetent psychopathic CLOWN, who just bought a pronged choke collar to "train” her FIRST dog, and defends choking, shocking, and HANGING DOGS, and says she only punishes her dog 5% of the time… > 3. I thank Avrama and Dogman for their encouragement, and > Lynn and Fred for their suggestions. If I have missed anyone > else, I am sorry.

Let’s LOOK at the players? OUR friend avrama is a professora, who is MISSING her front teeth because HER dog got FED UP WITH HER JERKING AND CHOKING him to come, so he learned to HURT HER BACK, and BASHED HER TEETH OUT on a recall, and MADE IT LOOK like it was an ACCIDENT. avrama no longer posts here, since stating that chin cuff does not mean HIT the dog. The dog LEARNED this behavior BY COPYING THE ACTIONS AND ATTITUDE of his SNEAKY "trainer," who HURTS HIM, and makes it LOOK like SHE DIDN’T DO IT… It’s called allelomimetic behavior. Just like marshalls’ dog learned to masturbate on his pillow… OUR pal Dogman (a.k.a. lyingdogdDUMMY), HANGS DOGS to REHABILITATE THEM. ‘Nuff said about dogdirtbag. cindymoron and lyingfrosty dahl twist and pinch dog’s ears and toes and BEAT DOGS WITH STICKS…That’s ACCEPTABLE HERE… Next, we have lyinglynn, a pathological liar (first rpdb regular to EARN the lying title in front of her name) and notorious dog abuser. Quoted as saying "I LOVE KOEHLER," she has been arguing both sides of every issue and changing her lies mid stream all along. She was thrown out of catholic college because of her PATHOLOGICAL LYING problem, but she would rather have us believe it was because she was caught whoring around… Then, we’ve got frantik fraud die, our SHOCK COLLAR SALESMAN. Read Jerry’s HIGH-STAKES CHALLENGE to get a better idea of where THIS FREAK is coming from. Here’s a guy who doesn’t understand enough about his product to advise people to PROPERLY CONDITION the dog to the collar prior to use. THAT is a NECESSITY the manufacturers warn users of their products about. Some of the "trainers" here are familiar with the concept, but they won’t speak up, because they want to protect their sleazy little chump chums from EMBARRASSMENT. Finally, we’ve got a crew of Anklebiters, marybeth, lyinglois, terry willis, and a few other cretins who BLOW SMOKE UP YOUR BEHINDS to cover up for their pals who HURT DOGS… >4. When this page is complete, I propose that we simply "sign" > it by placing our names and e-mail addresses at the top of the > page, below the title, alphabetically ordered by our e-mail > addresses.

That’s the ONLY good idea you bums have come up with YET. SIGNING a STATEMENT would help IDENTIFY the abusive MORONS we need to be AWARE OF and AVOID, who will tell us to HURT our dogs to make them WANT TO WORK for AND PROTECT US. > Of course, keep on posting further suggestions. > –Marshall

                           Concerns About Claims                        for the Wit’s End Dog Training                         Method and the Doggy Do Right > We, readers and contributors to rec.pets.dogs.behavior, have > frequently read claims about the Wit’s End Dog Training > Method (WEDTM) and the Doggy Do Right (DDR). We here > document our concerns about just some of the claims > detailed at http://www.doggydoright.com/ (as of 12/26/99) and > in the numerous posts Mr. Jerry Howe, the inventor/promoter, > has made in rec.pets.dogs.behavior newsgroup.

DON’T FAIL TO MENTION that Jerry has been a professional dog trainer specializing in behavior problems and protection for three dozen years… > We have not, however, addressed all claims for two reasons.

You mean: 1) you’ve NEVER READ THE TEXT. 2) IF JERRY IS RIGHT, ALL OF YOU ARE WRONG… > First, we find some claims to be too technical to be easily > discussed here.

FIRST, THERE IS NO BASIS FOR YOUR "CONCERNS," AND YOUR OBJECTIONS ARE ONLY TO DEFEND THE ABUSERS I CONDEMN, WHO ARE HURTING DOGS TO TRAIN THEM. > Secondly, we find that many of the unaddressed claims > suffer from the same problem as those we address here– the > absence of independent, objective supporting evidence.

YOU MEAN INDEPENDENT, OBJECTIVE EVIDENCE FROM PEOPLE LIKE you? All the INFORMATION is in the FREE Wits’ End Dog Training Method manual at http://www.doggydoright.com READ THE TEXT, and DISPROVE IT!!! >                          Claims Regarding the WEDTM > Claim 1: "The Wits’ End Dog Training Method is the fastest, > gentlest, most effective, comprehensive behavior > modification/obedience and protection training technique > available anywhere." (source: WEDTM manual)

FACT. >         Discussion:

DISCUSSION? There has been NO DISCUSSION. OUR respected CRITICS have NEVER READ THE TEXT, and are out to criticize the WEDTM to PROTECT themselves from SCRUTINY AS DOG ABUSERS. > The manual fails to provide a survey of other training > methods, fails to provide data about their effectiveness, and > fails to provide data about their efficacy (how quickly they > work and how much they cost). Although the manual here > makes impressive relative claims for the WEDTM, the manual > presents no supporting data.

The FACTS ARE IN THE TEXT. You can read them for FREE. There IS NO COMPARISON to other training methods, because other training methods are NOT COMPARABLE. > Claim 2: "Our enlightened methods challenge the learning > centers in your dog’s brain. These centers develop and > continue to grow exponentially." (source: WEDTM manual)

FACT. > Discussion: The manual fails to identify these putative > "learning centers" and fails to provide growth data.  Moreover, > the manual presents this claim in the present tense with > respect to YOUR dog. Has the author of the WEDTM seen > YOUR dog, seen YOUR dog’s brain, or used the method with > YOUR dog?

Here we’ve got a professor who is TOO LAZY to read the text he is criticizing, and his biggest argument is that the development of higher learning and increase in intelligence through TEACHING dogs instead of FORCING and  HURTING them, HAS NOT BEEN PROVEN. His only legitimate grip is with the word exponentially… I agree, that use of the word exponentially was using too powerful a word for true facts of the physiology of the brain. So, if you want to call me a liar for being impressed with a dogs ability to think and solve problems, fine by me… Just make sure you say that dogs can’t LEARN to LEARN… doc dermer would have us raise and train a few dogs, and raise and keep a few untrained dogs, KILL THEM ALL, AND TEST THEIR BRAINS FOR GROWTH… That’s SCIENTIFIC. That is the ONLY CRITERIA that will satisfy our good "professor"… Maybe if dogman has a litter of puppies, the psycho clown and him can do the work, and give the dead dogs to our good professor to examine their brains under an electron microscope??? > Claim 3: "Wits’ End Dog Training is easy, quick, and foolproof, > and works with every time (sic) , with every canine, even > wolves!"  (Source: WEDTM manual)

FACT. >  Discussion: It is hard to imagine a method whose > effectiveness is independent of a user’s intelligence or skill.

I GUESS STUPIDITY is YOUR PROBLEM . It is RAMPANT HERE, on rpdb…OUR "experts" here ONLY KNOW HURTING and FORCING DOGS, and FOR THAT REASON, NEED to contradict EVERY COMPETENT TRAINER who has ever recommended ways to train dogs WITHOUT HURTING THEM. > Consider something as simple as clipping nails or uncorking a > bottle of wine. Although these tasks are simple, intelligent > people can initially fail. But according to the WEDTM manual, > the WEDTM is foolproof, even the first time! This claim is > inconsistent with common experience.

That’s not surprising. EVERYTHING I say about dog training is INCONSISTENT WITH WHAT YOU "KNOW". > The manual goes further, however, and claims that this > method is foolproof even for training wolves.

FACT Because the Wits’ End Dog Training Method DOES NOT FORCE and INTIMIDATE dogs, we can train the MOST DIFFICULT, MOST DOMINANT DOGS, the ones who would be jerked and choked UNMERCIFULLY, and eventually made VICIOUS and UNTRUSTWORTHY because of CONFRONTATION AND ABUSE disguised as TRAINING, and DESTROYED by our "experts" here… like john richardson our resident pb abuser… or janet boss see the thread "interested in hearing," or … read more »

Response:

Hello alpha wolf,

> You can tell how many of us killfile wacko-howe by remembering that he spews > forth a ton of garbage posts each day and yet you will see very few response > to him.

No, that’s because you are too cowardly to answer the questions… And when I post information, you don’t have any arguments with it. >  The rest of us don’t even have to see him…

Yes, the HUNDREDS of post reflect that… j;~} > (I’d call him the invisible man, but he is obviously not a man!)…

Doesn’t matter what I am. This is dog training, not dog choking. You’re a dog choker. > he can jump and whine and stomp his feet and spew garbage into thin air…

And with your 25 years EXPERIENCE, you’re so GOOD, that you’re going to start shocking your dogs. You already use a bark collar. You alpha roll, growl at, and jerk and choke dogs according to koehler. > ya gotta know that frustrates the heck outa a nuisance barker like him. > regards, > toby

It seems most of your posts here ar about ME… Just answer the questions on koehler below.

"Nope. That "beating dogs with sticks" things is something you twisted out of context, because you are full of bizarro manure."  Koehler on correcting the housebreaking backslider. "If the punishment is not severe enough, some of these "backsliders" will think they’re winning and will continue to mess in the house. An indelible impression can sometimes be made by giving the dog a hard spanking of long duration, then leaving him tied by the mess he’s made so you can come back at twenty minute intervals and punish him again for the same thing. (Dogs are REALLY stupid. J.H.) In most cases, the dog that deliberately does this disagreeable thing cannot be made reliable by the light spanking that some owners seem to think is adequate punishment. It will be better for your dog, as well as the house, if you really pour it on him." "Read for koehler for content" Mark Shaw, IDIOT, Sadist, rpdb regular. "I LOVE KOHELER" lyinglynn, IDIOT, pathological liar, noted dog abuser. Tell us HOWE the dog understands you coming back every twenty minutes to BEAT THE CRAP OUTTA HIM AGAIN for the same mistake you’ve tied him up next to, to PUNIISH HIM AGAIN for the same mistake??? HOWE do you know the dog don’t think you’re coming back to beat him every twenty minutes for the same mistake, just because you’re mad at him, instead of ONLY TRAINING him??? See what I mean? You can’t justify that. Tell us HOWE the dog knows he shouldn’t be barking? That is, until the beatings take effect, after ENOUGH lessons? Tell us HOWE COME you think dogs might want to take a big chunk out of someone who’s WHIPPING THEM? And when koehler OCCASIONALLY find a dog who objects to his training, why does he HANG the dog, instead of calm them down and teach them there’s nothing to be afraid of??? That’s the only question you CAN answer. The answer is OBVIOUS. koehler trainers are dog abusing COWARDS. Koehler on correcting the Barking Dog Thunder through the door or gate, snatch up the belt that you’ve conveniently placed, and descend on him. He’ll have no chance to dodge if you grab the line and reel him in until his front feet are  raised off the floor or, if he’s a big dog, until you’ve snubbed him up with a hitch on something (ceiling hook, rafters, tree limb, door, or even over your shoulder, if you know HOWE. j.h.) While he’s held in close, lay the strap vigorously against his thighs. Keep pouring it on him until he thinks it’s the bitter end. A real whaling now may cut down somewhat on the number of repeat performances that will be necessary. When you’re finished and the dog is convinced that he is, put him on a long down to think things over while you catch your breath. After fifteen or twenty minutes, release him from the stay and leave the area again." lyinglynn writes: > For barking in the crate – leave the leash on and > pass it through the crate door.  Attach a line to it. > When he barks, use the line for a correction.

A CORRECTION? You’re going to JERK and CHOKE this new foster dog out of being AFRAID… that’s CORRECTION? lyinlynn says: "I LOVE KOEHLER," and in the next breath denies being a ‘koehler trainer.’ Is that because she ALSO shocks dogs, and koehler never had a shock collar? Pity that he was born too late to benefit from such a wondrous teaching tool, ISN’T it??? (MORE good KOEHLER training below, AFTER lyingfrosty dahl) Amy lyingfrosty dahl LIES with a straight face and says: "I don’t beat dogs, twist ears, or pinch toes. For the benefit of anyone who is in doubt, and who chooses not to read the article (SHE’D REALLY LIKE IT IF YOU DON’T READ IT!), there is NO mention in it of "twisting ears (INDEED, SHE PINCHES THEM WITH SPIKES). "Get a stick 30- or 40-inches long. You can have a helper wield the stick, or do it yourself. Tougher, less tractable dogs may require you to progress to striking them more sharply. REPEAT, VARYING HOW HARD YOU HIT THE DOG. I would never slap a dog (SHE TEACHES PEOPLE TO BEAT DOGS WITH STICKS TO MOTIVATE THEM). I would never advise anyone to slap a dog (SHE’S A PROVEN LIAR AND DOG ABUSER, do you expect her to ADMIT THE TRUTH???). I do not believe there is a single circumstance, ever, where slapping a dog is anything but destructive." RIGHT. She PINCHES, not twists… and chin cuff doesn’t mean hit, according to lyinglynn and avrama…. amy lyingfrosty dahl continues: Make the dog’s need to stop the pinching so urgent that resisting your will fades in importance. but will squeal, thrash around, and direct their efforts to escaping the ear pinch even get a studded collar and pinch the ear against that if the dog still does not open its mouth, get out the shotshell. Try pinching the ear between the metal casing and the collar, even the buckle on the collar. Persist! Eventually, the dog will give in" With your hand on the collar and ear, say, ‘fetch.’ Immediately tap the dog on the hindquarters with the stick. Repeat "fetch" and pinch the ear all the way to the dummy. REPEAT, VARYING HOW HARD YOU HIT THE DOG. You can press the dog’s ear with a shotshell instead of your thumb; Say "fetch" while pressing the dummy against its lips and pinching its ear. Gotta LOVE koehler. dahl makes koheler look like St. Francis. Our professor of behavior Wisc. U., lyingdoc dermer endorses koehler. (He said: "I punish dog’s behavior, NOT the dog." You gonna believe THAT CRAP, PEOPLE???) "There’s much wisdom in koehler," deana pace. (Her dogs run away from home.) "Read koehler," lyingdogDUMMY. (koehler is all he understands.) "Read koehler, cindymorons k-9 web faq’s page," ludwig smith. "Don’t let him do that, read cindymooreon’s web page," boob maida. "I’m not a koehler trainer," cindymoron, lyinglynn, lyingfrosty dahl. But they spout koehler’s methods. They don’t consider themselves koehler trainers because they shock, twist and pinch ears and toes, and BEAT DOGS WITH STICKS to MOTIVATE them. And now for a little MOORE good koehler training: BARKING, WHINING, HOWLING, YODELING, SCREAMING, AND WAILING We’ll begin with the easiest kind of vocalist to correct: the one that charges gates, fences, doors, and windows, barking furiously at familiar or imaginary people and objects. A few clusters of BBs from a good slingshot, in conjunction with the light line and plenty of temptations, will cause such a dog to use his mind rather than his mouth. But you won’t make the permanent impression unless you supply dozens of opportunities for him to exercise the control he thus acquires. Make sure these opportunities don’t always come at the same time of the day, else he may learn to observe the "quiet hour" and pursue his old routines at other times. With the help of the light line, it will be easy to follow the BBs with a long down to make sure he gets the most from his lesson. As was mentioned before, eliminating the senseless barking will not lessen the dog’s value as a watchdog but rather, as he grows more discriminating, increase it. The dog who vocalizes in bratty protest or lonesomeness because you’re gone constitutes a different problem. If it is impractical for someone to stay with him constantly (there are owners who cater to neurosis by employing dog sitters), you’ll have to heed the neighbors and the law and quiet the dog. This calls for a little ingenuity as well as a heavy hand. Attach a line to your dog’s collar, so your corrective effort doesn’t turn into a footrace around the house until you reach a stalemate under the bed. This use of the line in the correction will also serve to establish it as a reminder to be quiet as the dog drags it around when you’re not present. Next, equip yourself with a man’s leather belt or a strap heavy enough to give your particular dog a good tanning. Yup-we’re going to strike him. Real hard. Remember, you’re dealing with a dog who knows he should be quiet and neighbors who have legal rights to see that he does. Now leave, and let your fading footsteps tell the dog of your going. When you’ve walked to a point where he’ll think you’re gone but where you could hear any noises he might make, stop and listen. If you find a comfortable waiting place on a nearby porch, be careful not to talk or laugh. Tests show a dog’s hearing to be many times as sharp as yours. When the noise comes, instead of trying to sneak up to the door so you can barge in while he’s still barking, which is generally impossible, respond to his first sound with an emphatic bellow of "out," and keep on bellowing as you charge back to his area. Thunder through the door or gate, snatch up the belt that you’ve conveniently placed, and descend on him. He’ll have no chance to dodge if you grab the line and reel him in until his front feet are raised off the floor or, if he’s a big dog, until you’ve snubbed him up with a … read more »

Response:

> Thank you for your reply…it clears up a lot for me.  Guess I have one more > to add to my kill file list  :)

Ask professor lyingdoc dermer HOWE he can endorse koehler:  Koehler on correcting the housebreaking backslider. "If the punishment is not severe enough, some of these "backsliders" will think they’re winning and will continue to mess in the house. An indelible impression can sometimes be made by giving the dog a hard spanking of long duration, then leaving him tied by the mess he’s made so you can come back at twenty minute intervals and punish him again for the same thing. (Dogs are REALLY stupid. J.H.) In most cases, the dog that deliberately does this disagreeable thing cannot be made reliable by the light spanking that some owners seem to think is adequate punishment. It will be better for your dog, as well as the house, if you really pour it on him." "Read for koehler for content" Mark Shaw, IDIOT, Sadist, rpdb regular. "I LOVE KOHELER" lyinglynn, IDIOT, pathological liar, noted dog abuser.

"Nope. That "beating dogs with sticks" things is something you twisted out of context, because you are full of bizarro manure." Tell us HOWE the dog understands you coming back every twenty minutes to BEAT THE CRAP OUTTA HIM AGAIN for the same mistake you’ve tied him up next to, to PUNIISH HIM AGAIN for the same mistake??? HOWE do you know the dog don’t think you’re coming back to beat him every twenty minutes for the same mistake, just because you’re mad at him, instead of ONLY TRAINING him??? See what I mean? You can’t justify that. Tell us HOWE the dog knows he shouldn’t be barking? That is, until the beatings take effect, after ENOUGH lessons? Tell us HOWE COME you think dogs might want to take a big chunk out of someone who’s WHIPPING THEM? And when koehler OCCASIONALLY find a dog who objects to his training, why does he HANG the dog, instead of calm them down and teach them there’s nothing to be afraid of??? That’s the only question you CAN answer. The answer is OBVIOUS. koehler trainers are dog abusing COWARDS. Koehler on correcting the Barking Dog Thunder through the door or gate, snatch up the belt that you’ve conveniently placed, and descend on him. He’ll have no chance to dodge if you grab the line and reel him in until his front feet are  raised off the floor or, if he’s a big dog, until you’ve snubbed him up with a hitch on something (ceiling hook, rafters, tree limb, door, or even over your shoulder, if you know HOWE. j.h.) While he’s held in close, lay the strap vigorously against his thighs. Keep pouring it on him until he thinks it’s the bitter end. A real whaling now may cut down somewhat on the number of repeat performances that will be necessary. When you’re finished and the dog is convinced that he is, put him on a long down to think things over while you catch your breath. After fifteen or twenty minutes, release him from the stay and leave the area again." lyinglynn writes: > For barking in the crate – leave the leash on and > pass it through the crate door.  Attach a line to it. > When he barks, use the line for a correction.

A CORRECTION? You’re going to JERK and CHOKE this new foster dog out of being AFRAID… that’s CORRECTION? lyinlynn says: "I LOVE KOEHLER," and in the next breath denies being a ‘koehler trainer.’ Is that because she ALSO shocks dogs, and koehler never had a shock collar? Pity that he was born too late to benefit from such a wondrous teaching tool, ISN’T it??? (MORE good KOEHLER training below, AFTER lyingfrosty dahl) Amy lyingfrosty dahl LIES with a straight face and says: "I don’t beat dogs, twist ears, or pinch toes. For the benefit of anyone who is in doubt, and who chooses not to read the article (SHE’D REALLY LIKE IT IF YOU DON’T READ IT!), there is NO mention in it of "twisting ears (INDEED, SHE PINCHES THEM WITH SPIKES). "Get a stick 30- or 40-inches long. You can have a helper wield the stick, or do it yourself. Tougher, less tractable dogs may require you to progress to striking them more sharply. REPEAT, VARYING HOW HARD YOU HIT THE DOG. I would never slap a dog (SHE TEACHES PEOPLE TO BEAT DOGS WITH STICKS TO MOTIVATE THEM). I would never advise anyone to slap a dog (SHE’S A PROVEN LIAR AND DOG ABUSER, do you expect her to ADMIT THE TRUTH???). I do not believe there is a single circumstance, ever, where slapping a dog is anything but destructive." RIGHT. She PINCHES, not twists… and chin cuff doesn’t mean hit, according to lyinglynn and avrama…. amy lyingfrosty dahl continues: Make the dog’s need to stop the pinching so urgent that resisting your will fades in importance. but will squeal, thrash around, and direct their efforts to escaping the ear pinch even get a studded collar and pinch the ear against that if the dog still does not open its mouth, get out the shotshell. Try pinching the ear between the metal casing and the collar, even the buckle on the collar. Persist! Eventually, the dog will give in" With your hand on the collar and ear, say, ‘fetch.’ Immediately tap the dog on the hindquarters with the stick. Repeat "fetch" and pinch the ear all the way to the dummy. REPEAT, VARYING HOW HARD YOU HIT THE DOG. You can press the dog’s ear with a shotshell instead of your thumb; Say "fetch" while pressing the dummy against its lips and pinching its ear. Gotta LOVE koehler. dahl makes koheler look like St. Francis. Our professor of behavior Wisc. U., lyingdoc dermer endorses koehler. (He said: "I punish dog’s behavior, NOT the dog." You gonna believe THAT CRAP, PEOPLE???) "There’s much wisdom in koehler," deana pace. (Her dogs run away from home.) "Read koehler," lyingdogDUMMY. (koehler is all he understands.) "Read koehler, cindymorons k-9 web faq’s page," ludwig smith. "Don’t let him do that, read cindymooreon’s web page," boob maida. "I’m not a koehler trainer," cindymoron, lyinglynn, lyingfrosty dahl. But they spout koehler’s methods. They don’t consider themselves koehler trainers because they shock, twist and pinch ears and toes, and BEAT DOGS WITH STICKS to MOTIVATE them. And now for a little MOORE good koehler training: BARKING, WHINING, HOWLING, YODELING, SCREAMING, AND WAILING We’ll begin with the easiest kind of vocalist to correct: the one that charges gates, fences, doors, and windows, barking furiously at familiar or imaginary people and objects. A few clusters of BBs from a good slingshot, in conjunction with the light line and plenty of temptations, will cause such a dog to use his mind rather than his mouth. But you won’t make the permanent impression unless you supply dozens of opportunities for him to exercise the control he thus acquires. Make sure these opportunities don’t always come at the same time of the day, else he may learn to observe the "quiet hour" and pursue his old routines at other times. With the help of the light line, it will be easy to follow the BBs with a long down to make sure he gets the most from his lesson. As was mentioned before, eliminating the senseless barking will not lessen the dog’s value as a watchdog but rather, as he grows more discriminating, increase it. The dog who vocalizes in bratty protest or lonesomeness because you’re gone constitutes a different problem. If it is impractical for someone to stay with him constantly (there are owners who cater to neurosis by employing dog sitters), you’ll have to heed the neighbors and the law and quiet the dog. This calls for a little ingenuity as well as a heavy hand. Attach a line to your dog’s collar, so your corrective effort doesn’t turn into a footrace around the house until you reach a stalemate under the bed. This use of the line in the correction will also serve to establish it as a reminder to be quiet as the dog drags it around when you’re not present. Next, equip yourself with a man’s leather belt or a strap heavy enough to give your particular dog a good tanning. Yup-we’re going to strike him. Real hard. Remember, you’re dealing with a dog who knows he should be quiet and neighbors who have legal rights to see that he does. Now leave, and let your fading footsteps tell the dog of your going. When you’ve walked to a point where he’ll think you’re gone but where you could hear any noises he might make, stop and listen. If you find a comfortable waiting place on a nearby porch, be careful not to talk or laugh. Tests show a dog’s hearing to be many times as sharp as yours. When the noise comes, instead of trying to sneak up to the door so you can barge in while he’s still barking, which is generally impossible, respond to his first sound with an emphatic bellow of "out," and keep on bellowing as you charge back to his area. Thunder through the door or gate, snatch up the belt that you’ve conveniently placed, and descend on him. He’ll have no chance to dodge if you grab the line and reel him in until his front feet are raised off the floor or, if he’s a big dog, until you’ve snubbed him up with a hitch on something. While he’s held in close, lay the strap vigorously against his thighs. Keep pouring it on him until he thinks it’s the bitter end. A real whaling now may cut down somewhat on the number of repeat performances that will be necessary. When you’re finished and the dog is convinced that he is, put him on a long down to think things over while you catch your breath. After fifteen or twenty minutes, release him from the stay and leave the area again. So that you won’t feel remorseful, reflect on the truth that a great percentage of the barkers who are given away to "good homes" end up in the kindly black box with the sweet smell. Personally, I’ve always felt that it’s even better to spank children, even if they "cry out," than to "put them to sleep." You might have a long wait on that comfortable porch before your dog starts broadcasting … read more »

Response:

Thank you for your reply…it clears up a lot for me.  Guess I have one more to add to my kill file list  :)

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Just trying to figure this out…..since I see an *awful* lot of posts from >him, and also a lot of responses that don’t seem very favorable.  Is this >person a troll…..or a troublemaker?   I’m not being sarcastic by any >means, just trying to figure out if this person has any good advice, or if >he should join Elaine in my "kill file"  Thanks > Dear Denise, > The question "Who is _____?" is always difficult to answer. Much of who we > are depends on our behavior and if you do a search for Jerry’s posts at > www.dejanews.com you will further discover Jerry’s behavior here. Besides his > numerous, insulting, minimally informative posts on rpdb he promotes: an > electronic device that supposedly will solve all kinds of canine problems as > well as a poorly written dog training manual. The thoughts of several of us > about Jerry’s promotions are available here: >  http://home.earthlink.net/~tdwillis/Harlan/concerns.html > Basically, I just ignore Jerry’s posts and when I post anything about him I > put "Ninnyboy" in the subject line so that mine and other persons’ news > readers will remove posts about Jerry. > BTW, my killfile looks like this: > /"Jerry Howe"/h:j > /Ninnyboy/h:j <—Posts about Jerry > /Ed Williams/h:j > /BIGDOGBITE/h:j > /Evil Lad/h:j > A properly configured killfile can much help reading rpdb. > Sincerely, > –Marshall > I have read rpdb for about four years. Consequently, I urge newbies to > attend to the civil and rational posts of the rpdb regulars from whom I have > learned much. They include: Amy Dahl, Diane Blackman, jdoee, Janet Boss, > Susan Fraser, Avrama Gingold, Nancy Holmes, Lynn Kosmakos, Bob Maida, Ruth > Mays, Cindy Tittle Moore, Denna Pace, John Richardson, Sarah Sionnach, > Ludwig Smith, Jane Webb, and Terri Willis. > Marshall Lev Dermer/ Department of Psychology/ University of >                http://www.uwm.edu/~dermer > "Knowing how things work is the basis for appreciation, > and is thus a source of civilized delight."–William Safire

Response:

Hello boss,

>What does it mean to killfile someone, and how do I do it? > Dianne has a post about how to killfile with various newsreaders (a deja search > should show the article, but maybe someone can repost it).

But of course. She defends koehler’s methods, and enjoys HURTING her dogs to train them. > Killfiling is a way to block offensive posts from your view.

I think the MOST offensive posts were in your thread "interested in hearing," where you disregard TWO shock containment systems that made the dog aggressive, and told the people to jerk and choke the dog on a pronged choke collar and to crate him any time they can’t sufficiently jerk and choke him… The consensus of opinion was "KILL THE DOG TO BE FAIR." REMEMBER??? THAT’S THE SECOND DOG YOU KILLED THIS YEAR. > Many of us killefile one or two individuals, as we find all of their posts more irritating > and useless than we want to take the time to read.

No, a few of you TELL EVERYONE ELSE to killfile me, because I PROVE you are abusive, immoral, incompetent, dog abusing, control freaks. All you know is to jerk and choke dogs on a pronged choke collar to MAKE THEM FRIENDLY. >I’m from Norway, and some of the words here are unknown to me, you see. :-) > Best Friends Dog Obedience > "Nice Manners for the Family Pet" > "Second-hand dogs AREN’T second-rate" > see Lucy at:   http://www.flyball.com/nsl/

Get the hell out of this business before you kill any more dogs and harm the families who love them.

Response:

Hi denise, > Thank you for your reply…it clears up a lot for me.  Guess I have one more > to add to my kill file list  :)

You can tell how many of us killfile wacko-howe by remembering that he spews forth a ton of garbage posts each day and yet you will see very few response to him.  The rest of us don’t even have to see him…(I’d call him the invisible man, but he is obviously not a man!)… he can jump and whine and stomp his feet and spew garbage into thin air…ya gotta know that frustrates the heck outa a nuisance barker like him. regards, toby

Response:

> What does it mean to killfile someone, and how do I do it? > I’m from Norway, and some of the words here are unknown to me, you see. :-) > And what does "spayed" mean? > Kari Anne.

Hello Kari, See if any of the words below are unknown to you. Koehler on correcting the housebreaking backslider. "If the punishment is not severe enough, some of these "backsliders" will think they’re winning and will continue to mess in the house. An indelible impression can sometimes be made by giving the dog a hard spanking of long duration, then leaving him tied by the mess he’s made so you can come back at twenty minute intervals and punish him again for the same thing. (Dogs are REALLY stupid. J.H.) In most cases, the dog that deliberately does this disagreeable thing cannot be made reliable by the light spanking that some owners seem to think is adequate punishment. It will be better for your dog, as well as the house, if you really pour it on him." "Read for koehler for content" Mark Shaw, IDIOT, Sadist, rpdb regular. "I LOVE KOHELER" lyinglynn, IDIOT, pathological liar, noted dog abuser. Tell us HOWE the dog understands you coming back every twenty minutes to BEAT THE CRAP OUTTA HIM AGAIN for the same mistake you’ve tied him up next to, to PUNIISH HIM AGAIN for the same mistake??? HOWE do you know the dog don’t think you’re coming back to beat him every twenty minutes for the same mistake, just because you’re mad at him, instead of ONLY TRAINING him??? See what I mean? You can’t justify that. Tell us HOWE the dog knows he shouldn’t be barking? That is, until the beatings take effect, after ENOUGH lessons? Tell us HOWE COME you think dogs might want to take a big chunk out of someone who’s WHIPPING THEM? And when koehler OCCASIONALLY find a dog who objects to his training, why does he HANG the dog, instead of calm them down and teach them there’s nothing to be afraid of??? That’s the only question you CAN answer. The answer is OBVIOUS. koehler trainers are dog abusing COWARDS.

"Nope. That "beating dogs with sticks" things is something you twisted out of context, because you are full of bizarro manure." Koehler on correcting the Barking Dog Thunder through the door or gate, snatch up the belt that you’ve conveniently placed, and descend on him. He’ll have no chance to dodge if you grab the line and reel him in until his front feet are  raised off the floor or, if he’s a big dog, until you’ve snubbed him up with a hitch on something (ceiling hook, rafters, tree limb, door, or even over your shoulder, if you know HOWE. j.h.) While he’s held in close, lay the strap vigorously against his thighs. Keep pouring it on him until he thinks it’s the bitter end. A real whaling now may cut down somewhat on the number of repeat performances that will be necessary. When you’re finished and the dog is convinced that he is, put him on a long down to think things over while you catch your breath. After fifteen or twenty minutes, release him from the stay and leave the area again." lyinglynn writes: > For barking in the crate – leave the leash on and > pass it through the crate door.  Attach a line to it. > When he barks, use the line for a correction.

A CORRECTION? You’re going to JERK and CHOKE this new foster dog out of being AFRAID… that’s CORRECTION? lyinlynn says: "I LOVE KOEHLER," and in the next breath denies being a ‘koehler trainer.’ Is that because she ALSO shocks dogs, and koehler never had a shock collar? Pity that he was born too late to benefit from such a wondrous teaching tool, ISN’T it??? (MORE good KOEHLER training below, AFTER lyingfrosty dahl) Amy lyingfrosty dahl LIES with a straight face and says: "I don’t beat dogs, twist ears, or pinch toes. For the benefit of anyone who is in doubt, and who chooses not to read the article (SHE’D REALLY LIKE IT IF YOU DON’T READ IT!), there is NO mention in it of "twisting ears (INDEED, SHE PINCHES THEM WITH SPIKES). "Get a stick 30- or 40-inches long. You can have a helper wield the stick, or do it yourself. Tougher, less tractable dogs may require you to progress to striking them more sharply. REPEAT, VARYING HOW HARD YOU HIT THE DOG. I would never slap a dog (SHE TEACHES PEOPLE TO BEAT DOGS WITH STICKS TO MOTIVATE THEM). I would never advise anyone to slap a dog (SHE’S A PROVEN LIAR AND DOG ABUSER, do you expect her to ADMIT THE TRUTH???). I do not believe there is a single circumstance, ever, where slapping a dog is anything but destructive." RIGHT. She PINCHES, not twists… and chin cuff doesn’t mean hit, according to lyinglynn and avrama…. amy lyingfrosty dahl continues: Make the dog’s need to stop the pinching so urgent that resisting your will fades in importance. but will squeal, thrash around, and direct their efforts to escaping the ear pinch even get a studded collar and pinch the ear against that if the dog still does not open its mouth, get out the shotshell. Try pinching the ear between the metal casing and the collar, even the buckle on the collar. Persist! Eventually, the dog will give in" With your hand on the collar and ear, say, ‘fetch.’ Immediately tap the dog on the hindquarters with the stick. Repeat "fetch" and pinch the ear all the way to the dummy. REPEAT, VARYING HOW HARD YOU HIT THE DOG. You can press the dog’s ear with a shotshell instead of your thumb; Say "fetch" while pressing the dummy against its lips and pinching its ear. Gotta LOVE koehler. dahl makes koheler look like St. Francis. Our professor of behavior Wisc. U., lyingdoc dermer endorses koehler. (He said: "I punish dog’s behavior, NOT the dog." You gonna believe THAT CRAP, PEOPLE???) "There’s much wisdom in koehler," deana pace. (Her dogs run away from home.) "Read koehler," lyingdogDUMMY. (koehler is all he understands.) "Read koehler, cindymorons k-9 web faq’s page," ludwig smith. "Don’t let him do that, read cindymooreon’s web page," boob maida. "I’m not a koehler trainer," cindymoron, lyinglynn, lyingfrosty dahl. But they spout koehler’s methods. They don’t consider themselves koehler trainers because they shock, twist and pinch ears and toes, and BEAT DOGS WITH STICKS to MOTIVATE them. And now for a little MOORE good koehler training: BARKING, WHINING, HOWLING, YODELING, SCREAMING, AND WAILING We’ll begin with the easiest kind of vocalist to correct: the one that charges gates, fences, doors, and windows, barking furiously at familiar or imaginary people and objects. A few clusters of BBs from a good slingshot, in conjunction with the light line and plenty of temptations, will cause such a dog to use his mind rather than his mouth. But you won’t make the permanent impression unless you supply dozens of opportunities for him to exercise the control he thus acquires. Make sure these opportunities don’t always come at the same time of the day, else he may learn to observe the "quiet hour" and pursue his old routines at other times. With the help of the light line, it will be easy to follow the BBs with a long down to make sure he gets the most from his lesson. As was mentioned before, eliminating the senseless barking will not lessen the dog’s value as a watchdog but rather, as he grows more discriminating, increase it. The dog who vocalizes in bratty protest or lonesomeness because you’re gone constitutes a different problem. If it is impractical for someone to stay with him constantly (there are owners who cater to neurosis by employing dog sitters), you’ll have to heed the neighbors and the law and quiet the dog. This calls for a little ingenuity as well as a heavy hand. Attach a line to your dog’s collar, so your corrective effort doesn’t turn into a footrace around the house until you reach a stalemate under the bed. This use of the line in the correction will also serve to establish it as a reminder to be quiet as the dog drags it around when you’re not present. Next, equip yourself with a man’s leather belt or a strap heavy enough to give your particular dog a good tanning. Yup-we’re going to strike him. Real hard. Remember, you’re dealing with a dog who knows he should be quiet and neighbors who have legal rights to see that he does. Now leave, and let your fading footsteps tell the dog of your going. When you’ve walked to a point where he’ll think you’re gone but where you could hear any noises he might make, stop and listen. If you find a comfortable waiting place on a nearby porch, be careful not to talk or laugh. Tests show a dog’s hearing to be many times as sharp as yours. When the noise comes, instead of trying to sneak up to the door so you can barge in while he’s still barking, which is generally impossible, respond to his first sound with an emphatic bellow of "out," and keep on bellowing as you charge back to his area. Thunder through the door or gate, snatch up the belt that you’ve conveniently placed, and descend on him. He’ll have no chance to dodge if you grab the line and reel him in until his front feet are raised off the floor or, if he’s a big dog, until you’ve snubbed him up with a hitch on something. While he’s held in close, lay the strap vigorously against his thighs. Keep pouring it on him until he thinks it’s the bitter end. A real whaling now may cut down somewhat on the number of repeat performances that will be necessary. When you’re finished and the dog is convinced that he is, put him on a long down to think things over while you catch your breath. After fifteen or twenty minutes, release him from the stay and leave the area again. So that you won’t feel remorseful, reflect on the truth that a great percentage of the barkers who are given away to "good homes" end up in the kindly black box with the sweet smell. Personally, I’ve always felt that it’s even better to spank children, even if they "cry out," than to "put them to sleep." You might have a long wait on that … read more »

Response:

Wrong. Away YOU go. I’m not going ANYWHERE. Complain to my ISP? Jerry.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi Kari, > What does it mean to killfile someone, and how do I do it? > killfile means to use a tool in your news/mail program to no longer even see > messages from a certain person.   If you use Outlook or Outlook express, > choose Tools, then Message Rules, then Blocked Senders List.  To killfile > presto chango…away he goes. > I’m from Norway, and some of the words here are unknown to me, you see. > :-) > No problem – if you used Norweigan with me, I would be even more lost. > <grin> > And what does "spayed" mean? > "spayed" is to surgically alter a female dog so that she can no longer > become pregnant. > regards, > toby

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi, and thank you for solving my little "Spaying"-mystery. :-) > I did what you said to block psycho-jerry, but his postings still appear > in > the NG. > Hi Kari Anne, >     You can use OE in another way to easily block him. Highlight one of his > posts, then pull down "Message" from toolbar above. Then click on "Block > Sender". >     This is what I do to block certain ppl, but I go the other route that > Alpha uses and told you about to block certain phrases, like ‘ninnyboy’. We > use this for communicating with howdy doody so that others don’t have to > read anything from him, and if we are copying his posts to reply. Most ppl > are very good at including ‘ninnyboy’ in the topic so that we all don’t have > to read him. I block that one thru "Message Rules", and follow directions > from there for "News". You can also block him from "Mail" too. You can use > the "Message Rules" to block certain names in topics, like "Jerry Howe" AKA > howdy doody, or "DDR" or his silly little manual’s name, I can’t even > remember, I’ve had it blocked for so long now. :) )) >     You can also block anything else you’d like from topic and in message. >     If you need anymore help, I use the same newsreader, OE, (Outlook > Express) so I’ll be very happy to help in any way. :) >     Oh, and WELCOME !!!!! to the group, nice to have some more ppl from > outside the US. >     Do be warned, tho, that certain Canadians, (not mentioning any names but > his initials are R.O.C.K.Y), are very weird, and all he wants to chat about > are female unmentionables, that most of us gals like to mention, just to see > him blush. <neener, Matt> <G> > MaryBeth

Well, lets talk about your dogs eating poo before it hits the ground? Is that what you have them do to cut down on cleanup and feed bills? You’d think you were smart enough to teach them not to do that? Ask lyingdogDUMMY HOWE to stop your dogs from eating poo. He said you’ll have to HURT the dog more than you’d LIKE to, to break them of the habit. I teach dogs not to do that in a couple minutes using only sound distraction and praise. Tell us about keeping our OPTIONS open for methods to train our dogs? What would YOU do to stop your dogs from eating poo before it hits the ground??? Talk to us about the benefits of chin cuffing, scruff shaking, and twisting and pinching dog’s ears and toes??? Koehler on correcting the housebreaking backslider. "If the punishment is not severe enough, some of these "backsliders" will think they’re winning and will continue to mess in the house. An indelible impression can sometimes be made by giving the dog a hard spanking of long duration, then leaving him tied by the mess he’s made so you can come back at twenty minute intervals and punish him again for the same thing. (Dogs are REALLY stupid. J.H.) In most cases, the dog that deliberately does this disagreeable thing cannot be made reliable by the light spanking that some owners seem to think is adequate punishment. It will be better for your dog, as well as the house, if you really pour it on him." "Read for koehler for content" Mark Shaw, IDIOT, Sadist, rpdb regular. "I LOVE KOHELER" lyinglynn, IDIOT, pathological liar, noted dog abuser. Tell us HOWE the dog understands you coming back every twenty minutes to BEAT THE CRAP OUTTA HIM AGAIN for the same mistake you’ve tied him up next to, to PUNIISH HIM AGAIN for the same mistake??? HOWE do you know the dog don’t think you’re coming back to beat him every twenty minutes for the same mistake, just because you’re mad at him, instead of ONLY TRAINING him??? See what I mean? You can’t justify that. Tell us HOWE the dog knows he shouldn’t be barking? That is, until the beatings take effect, after ENOUGH lessons? Tell us HOWE COME you think dogs might want to take a big chunk out of someone who’s WHIPPING THEM? And when koehler OCCASIONALLY find a dog who objects to his training, why does he HANG the dog, instead of calm them down and teach them there’s nothing to be afraid of??? That’s the only question you CAN answer. The answer is OBVIOUS. koehler trainers are dog abusing COWARDS.

"Nope. That "beating dogs with sticks" things is something you twisted out of context, because you are full of bizarro manure." Koehler on correcting the Barking Dog Thunder through the door or gate, snatch up the belt that you’ve conveniently placed, and descend on him. He’ll have no chance to dodge if you grab the line and reel him in until his front feet are  raised off the floor or, if he’s a big dog, until you’ve snubbed him up with a hitch on something (ceiling hook, rafters, tree limb, door, or even over your shoulder, if you know HOWE. j.h.) While he’s held in close, lay the strap vigorously against his thighs. Keep pouring it on him until he thinks it’s the bitter end. A real whaling now may cut down somewhat on the number of repeat performances that will be necessary. When you’re finished and the dog is convinced that he is, put him on a long down to think things over while you catch your breath. After fifteen or twenty minutes, release him from the stay and leave the area again." lyinglynn writes: > For barking in the crate – leave the leash on and > pass it through the crate door.  Attach a line to it. > When he barks, use the line for a correction.

A CORRECTION? You’re going to JERK and CHOKE this new foster dog out of being AFRAID… that’s CORRECTION? lyinlynn says: "I LOVE KOEHLER," and in the next breath denies being a ‘koehler trainer.’ Is that because she ALSO shocks dogs, and koehler never had a shock collar? Pity that he was born too late to benefit from such a wondrous teaching tool, ISN’T it??? (MORE good KOEHLER training below, AFTER lyingfrosty dahl) Amy lyingfrosty dahl LIES with a straight face and says: "I don’t beat dogs, twist ears, or pinch toes. For the benefit of anyone who is in doubt, and who chooses not to read the article (SHE’D REALLY LIKE IT IF YOU DON’T READ IT!), there is NO mention in it of "twisting ears (INDEED, SHE PINCHES THEM WITH SPIKES). "Get a stick 30- or 40-inches long. You can have a helper wield the stick, or do it yourself. Tougher, less tractable dogs may require you to progress to striking them more sharply. REPEAT, VARYING HOW HARD YOU HIT THE DOG. I would never slap a dog (SHE TEACHES PEOPLE TO BEAT DOGS WITH STICKS TO MOTIVATE THEM). I would never advise anyone to slap a dog (SHE’S A PROVEN LIAR AND DOG ABUSER, do you expect her to ADMIT THE TRUTH???). I do not believe there is a single circumstance, ever, where slapping a dog is anything but destructive." RIGHT. She PINCHES, not twists… and chin cuff doesn’t mean hit, according to lyinglynn and avrama…. amy lyingfrosty dahl continues: Make the dog’s need to stop the pinching so urgent that resisting your will fades in importance. but will squeal, thrash around, and direct their efforts to escaping the ear pinch even get a studded collar and pinch the ear against that if the dog still does not open its mouth, get out the shotshell. Try pinching the ear between the metal casing and the collar, even the buckle on the collar. Persist! Eventually, the dog will give in" With your hand on the collar and ear, say, ‘fetch.’ Immediately tap the dog on the hindquarters with the stick. Repeat "fetch" and pinch the ear all the way to the dummy. REPEAT, VARYING HOW HARD YOU HIT THE DOG. You can press the dog’s ear with a shotshell instead of your thumb; Say "fetch" while pressing the dummy against its lips and pinching its ear. Gotta LOVE koehler. dahl makes koheler look like St. Francis. Our professor of behavior Wisc. U., lyingdoc dermer endorses koehler. (He said: "I punish dog’s behavior, NOT the dog." You gonna believe THAT CRAP, PEOPLE???) "There’s much wisdom in koehler," deana pace. (Her dogs run away from home.) "Read koehler," lyingdogDUMMY. (koehler is all he understands.) "Read koehler, cindymorons k-9 web faq’s page," ludwig smith. "Don’t let him do that, read cindymooreon’s web page," boob maida. "I’m not a koehler trainer," cindymoron, lyinglynn, lyingfrosty dahl. But they spout koehler’s methods. They don’t consider themselves koehler trainers because they shock, twist and pinch ears and toes, and BEAT DOGS WITH STICKS to MOTIVATE them. And now for a little MOORE good koehler training: BARKING, WHINING, HOWLING, YODELING, SCREAMING, AND WAILING We’ll begin with the easiest kind of vocalist to correct: the one that charges gates, fences, doors, and windows, barking furiously at familiar or imaginary people and objects. A few clusters of BBs from a good slingshot, in conjunction with the light line and plenty of temptations, will cause such a dog to use his mind rather than his mouth. But you won’t make the permanent impression unless you supply dozens of opportunities for him to exercise the control he thus acquires. Make sure these opportunities don’t always come at the same time of the day, else he may learn to observe the "quiet hour" and pursue his old routines at other times. With the help of the light line, it will be easy to follow the BBs with a long down to make sure he gets the most from his lesson. As was mentioned before, eliminating the senseless barking will not lessen the dog’s value as a watchdog but rather, as he grows more discriminating, increase it. The dog who vocalizes in bratty protest or lonesomeness because you’re gone constitutes a different problem. If it is impractical for someone to stay with him constantly (there are owners who cater to neurosis by employing dog sitters), you’ll have to heed the neighbors and the law and quiet the dog. This calls for a little ingenuity as well as a heavy hand. Attach a line to your dog’s collar, … read more »

Response:

>Just trying to figure this out…..since I see an *awful* lot of posts from >him, and also a lot of responses that don’t seem very favorable.  Is this >person a troll…..or a troublemaker?   I’m not being sarcastic by any >means, just trying to figure out if this person has any good advice, or if >he should join Elaine in my "kill file"  Thanks

Dear Denise, The question "Who is _____?" is always difficult to answer. Much of who we are depends on our behavior and if you do a search for Jerry’s posts at www.dejanews.com you will further discover Jerry’s behavior here. Besides his numerous, insulting, minimally informative posts on rpdb he promotes: an electronic device that supposedly will solve all kinds of canine problems as well as a poorly written dog training manual. The thoughts of several of us about Jerry’s promotions are available here:  http://home.earthlink.net/~tdwillis/Harlan/concerns.html Basically, I just ignore Jerry’s posts and when I post anything about him I put "Ninnyboy" in the subject line so that mine and other persons’ news readers will remove posts about Jerry. BTW, my killfile looks like this: /"Jerry Howe"/h:j /Ninnyboy/h:j <—Posts about Jerry /Ed Williams/h:j /BIGDOGBITE/h:j /Evil Lad/h:j A properly configured killfile can much help reading rpdb. Sincerely, –Marshall I have read rpdb for about four years. Consequently, I urge newbies to attend to the civil and rational posts of the rpdb regulars from whom I have learned much. They include: Amy Dahl, Diane Blackman, jdoee, Janet Boss, Susan Fraser, Avrama Gingold, Nancy Holmes, Lynn Kosmakos, Bob Maida, Ruth Mays, Cindy Tittle Moore, Denna Pace, John Richardson, Sarah Sionnach, Ludwig Smith, Jane Webb, and Terri Willis. Marshall Lev Dermer/ Department of Psychology/ University of                http://www.uwm.edu/~dermer "Knowing how things work is the basis for appreciation, and is thus a source of civilized delight."–William Safire

Response:

Hello alpha wolf,

> Hi denise, > Just trying to figure this out…..since I see an *awful* lot of posts > from > him, and also a lot of responses that don’t seem very favorable.  Is this > person a troll…..or a troublemaker?   I’m not being sarcastic by any > means, just trying to figure out if this person has any good advice, or if > he should join Elaine in my "kill file"  Thanks > IMHO, this guy seems like an escapee from a nut house!

Is that why you started lying about me on your second post here, mr 25 years EXPERIENCE who can’t keep his dog from trying to escape? Or is that because you like to jerk and choke and alpha roll and growl at your dogs, and you think EVERYBODY should confront and conflict and punish their dogs, like you do? > He makes claims that he is so brilliant that renown experts can’t understand his > marvelous theories and inventions,

You are now looking into a shock collar to deal with your dog’s BEHAVIOR PROBLEMS. > yet does not possess the logic abilities of a trained rat.

Because I don’t condone HURTING DOGS to train them??? > He comes in here and accuses everyone who contradicts him of being "koehler > trainers" and abusing their dogs.

Well, that’s because most of our rpdb regulars ARE koehler trainers. > After he accused ME of being a koehler trainer,

You were taught EVERYTHING YOU KNOW by a trainer who TRAINED WITH wm koehler. You are NOT an honest person. You are a LIAR and a DOG ABUSER. > I figured I had best go and buy koehler’s book to see what all the > fuss was about.

You refuse to answer the simple questions from the quoted text below… > It arrived yesterday, so the jury is still out on whether > or not I will adopt some of koehler’s methods…

You already do, you were taught by a monster who learned from koehler himself. > maybe jerry moron will succeed in turning me into a koehler trainer? LOL

You already are. Just address the questions below… You won’t, just like the rest of our Gang Of Thugs refuses to answer… Because koehler trainers are DOG ABUSING COWARDS. > Your post asking about mr psycho-case is almost identical to one I posted > after I first joined the group 3 weeks ago.

When you saw yourself IDENTIFIED as on of the abusive cretins I warn people about. > My adivce, killfile him.

Before she finds out what KIND of dog abusing liar you are??? > You can’t escape all of his babbling because some people respond to him and > quote him, but hey,

As long as you can avoid looking at yourself as the cause of your dog behavior problems, you won’t have to face yourself as a dog abusing coward. > killfile works better than DDR at quieting that particular barking dog.

Isn’t it interesting that my critics who are dog abusing liars, ONLY CRITICIZE DDR and me, and NOT the INFORMATION that is PROVING you to be a dog abuser??? Talk dog training. Koehler on correcting the housebreaking backslider. "If the punishment is not severe enough, some of these "backsliders" will think they’re winning and will continue to mess in the house. An indelible impression can sometimes be made by giving the dog a hard spanking of long duration, then leaving him tied by the mess he’s made so you can come back at twenty minute intervals and punish him again for the same thing. (Dogs are REALLY stupid. J.H.) In most cases, the dog that deliberately does this disagreeable thing cannot be made reliable by the light spanking that some owners seem to think is adequate punishment. It will be better for your dog, as well as the house, if you really pour it on him." "Read for koehler for content" Mark Shaw, IDIOT, Sadist, rpdb regular. "I LOVE KOHELER" lyinglynn, IDIOT, pathological liar, noted dog abuser. Tell us HOWE the dog understands you coming back every twenty minutes to BEAT THE CRAP OUTTA HIM AGAIN for the same mistake you’ve tied him up next to, to PUNIISH HIM AGAIN for the same mistake??? HOWE do you know the dog don’t think you’re coming back to beat him every twenty minutes for the same mistake, just because you’re mad at him, instead of ONLY TRAINING him??? See what I mean? You can’t justify that. Tell us HOWE the dog knows he shouldn’t be barking? That is, until the beatings take effect, after ENOUGH lessons? Tell us HOWE COME you think dogs might want to take a big chunk out of someone who’s WHIPPING THEM? And when koehler OCCASIONALLY find a dog who objects to his training, why does he HANG the dog, instead of calm them down and teach them there’s nothing to be afraid of??? That’s the only question you CAN answer. The answer is OBVIOUS. koehler trainers are dog abusing COWARDS.

"Nope. That "beating dogs with sticks" things is something you twisted out of context, because you are full of bizarro manure." Koehler on correcting the Barking Dog Thunder through the door or gate, snatch up the belt that you’ve conveniently placed, and descend on him. He’ll have no chance to dodge if you grab the line and reel him in until his front feet are  raised off the floor or, if he’s a big dog, until you’ve snubbed him up with a hitch on something (ceiling hook, rafters, tree limb, door, or even over your shoulder, if you know HOWE. j.h.) While he’s held in close, lay the strap vigorously against his thighs. Keep pouring it on him until he thinks it’s the bitter end. A real whaling now may cut down somewhat on the number of repeat performances that will be necessary. When you’re finished and the dog is convinced that he is, put him on a long down to think things over while you catch your breath. After fifteen or twenty minutes, release him from the stay and leave the area again." lyinglynn writes: > For barking in the crate – leave the leash on and > pass it through the crate door.  Attach a line to it. > When he barks, use the line for a correction.

A CORRECTION? You’re going to JERK and CHOKE this new foster dog out of being AFRAID… that’s CORRECTION? lyinlynn says: "I LOVE KOEHLER," and in the next breath denies being a ‘koehler trainer.’ Is that because she ALSO shocks dogs, and koehler never had a shock collar? Pity that he was born too late to benefit from such a wondrous teaching tool, ISN’T it??? (MORE good KOEHLER training below, AFTER lyingfrosty dahl) Amy lyingfrosty dahl LIES with a straight face and says: "I don’t beat dogs, twist ears, or pinch toes. For the benefit of anyone who is in doubt, and who chooses not to read the article (SHE’D REALLY LIKE IT IF YOU DON’T READ IT!), there is NO mention in it of "twisting ears (INDEED, SHE PINCHES THEM WITH SPIKES). "Get a stick 30- or 40-inches long. You can have a helper wield the stick, or do it yourself. Tougher, less tractable dogs may require you to progress to striking them more sharply. REPEAT, VARYING HOW HARD YOU HIT THE DOG. I would never slap a dog (SHE TEACHES PEOPLE TO BEAT DOGS WITH STICKS TO MOTIVATE THEM). I would never advise anyone to slap a dog (SHE’S A PROVEN LIAR AND DOG ABUSER, do you expect her to ADMIT THE TRUTH???). I do not believe there is a single circumstance, ever, where slapping a dog is anything but destructive." RIGHT. She PINCHES, not twists… and chin cuff doesn’t mean hit, according to lyinglynn and avrama…. amy lyingfrosty dahl continues: Make the dog’s need to stop the pinching so urgent that resisting your will fades in importance. but will squeal, thrash around, and direct their efforts to escaping the ear pinch even get a studded collar and pinch the ear against that if the dog still does not open its mouth, get out the shotshell. Try pinching the ear between the metal casing and the collar, even the buckle on the collar. Persist! Eventually, the dog will give in" With your hand on the collar and ear, say, ‘fetch.’ Immediately tap the dog on the hindquarters with the stick. Repeat "fetch" and pinch the ear all the way to the dummy. REPEAT, VARYING HOW HARD YOU HIT THE DOG. You can press the dog’s ear with a shotshell instead of your thumb; Say "fetch" while pressing the dummy against its lips and pinching its ear. Gotta LOVE koehler. dahl makes koheler look like St. Francis. Our professor of behavior Wisc. U., lyingdoc dermer endorses koehler. (He said: "I punish dog’s behavior, NOT the dog." You gonna believe THAT CRAP, PEOPLE???) "There’s much wisdom in koehler," deana pace. (Her dogs run away from home.) "Read koehler," lyingdogDUMMY. (koehler is all he understands.) "Read koehler, cindymorons k-9 web faq’s page," ludwig smith. "Don’t let him do that, read cindymooreon’s web page," boob maida. "I’m not a koehler trainer," cindymoron, lyinglynn, lyingfrosty dahl. But they spout koehler’s methods. They don’t consider themselves koehler trainers because they shock, twist and pinch ears and toes, and BEAT DOGS WITH STICKS to MOTIVATE them. And now for a little MOORE good koehler training: BARKING, WHINING, HOWLING, YODELING, SCREAMING, AND WAILING We’ll begin with the easiest kind of vocalist to correct: the one that charges gates, fences, doors, and windows, barking furiously at familiar or imaginary people and objects. A few clusters of BBs from a good slingshot, in conjunction with the light line and plenty of temptations, will cause such a dog to use his mind rather than his mouth. But you won’t make the permanent impression unless you supply dozens of opportunities for him to exercise the control he thus acquires. Make sure these opportunities don’t always come at the same time of the day, else he may learn to observe the "quiet hour" and pursue his old routines at other times. With the help of the light line, it will be easy to follow the BBs with a long down to make sure he gets the most from his lesson. As was mentioned before, eliminating the senseless barking will not lessen the dog’s value as a watchdog but rather, as he grows more discriminating, increase it. The … read more »

Response:

What does it mean to killfile someone, and how do I do it? I’m from Norway, and some of the words here are unknown to me, you see. :-) And what does "spayed" mean? Kari Anne.

Response:

Hi Kari, > What does it mean to killfile someone, and how do I do it?

killfile means to use a tool in your news/mail program to no longer even see messages from a certain person.   If you use Outlook or Outlook express, choose Tools, then Message Rules, then Blocked Senders List.  To killfile presto chango…away he goes. > I’m from Norway, and some of the words here are unknown to me, you see.

:-) No problem – if you used Norweigan with me, I would be even more lost. <grin> > And what does "spayed" mean?

"spayed" is to surgically alter a female dog so that she can no longer become pregnant. regards, toby

Response:

>What does it mean to killfile someone, and how do I do it?

Dianne has a post about how to killfile with various newsreaders (a deja search should show the article, but maybe someone can repost it).   Killfiling is a way to block offensive posts from your view.  Many of us killefile one or two individuals, as we find all of their posts more irritating and useless than we want to take the time to read. >I’m from Norway, and some of the words here are unknown to me, you see. :-) >And what does "spayed" mean? >Kari Anne.

A hysterectomy for a female dog.  "Desexing" in many cultures. Janet Boss Best Friends Dog Obedience "Nice Manners for the Family Pet" "Second-hand dogs AREN’T second-rate" see Lucy at:   http://www.flyball.com/nsl/

Response:

Hi, and thank you for solving my little "Spaying"-mystery. :-) I did what you said to block psycho-jerry, but his postings still appear in the NG. Takk skal du ha for all hjelp! :-) That was norwegian, meaning: "Thank you for all your help". :-) ) Kari Anne – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi Kari, > What does it mean to killfile someone, and how do I do it? > killfile means to use a tool in your news/mail program to no longer even see > messages from a certain person.   If you use Outlook or Outlook express, > choose Tools, then Message Rules, then Blocked Senders List.  To killfile > presto chango…away he goes. > I’m from Norway, and some of the words here are unknown to me, you see. > :-) > No problem – if you used Norweigan with me, I would be even more lost. > <grin> > And what does "spayed" mean? > "spayed" is to surgically alter a female dog so that she can no longer > become pregnant. > regards, > toby

Response:

Hi Kari, and no problem > Hi, and thank you for solving my little "Spaying"-mystery. :-) > I did what you said to block psycho-jerry, but his postings still appear in > the NG.

The old ones will appear…anything new he posts should be invisible to you. > Takk skal du ha for all hjelp! :-) > That was norwegian, meaning: "Thank you for all your help". :-) )

Chuckle….I got part of that…about all I remember of swedish spoken in my house when I was a kid is "takk gud god for morten" (or something like that…means thank good God for food) LOL have a good one, toby

Response:

> Hi, and thank you for solving my little "Spaying"-mystery. :-) > I did what you said to block psycho-jerry, but his postings still appear in > the NG.

Hi Kari Anne,     You can use OE in another way to easily block him. Highlight one of his posts, then pull down "Message" from toolbar above. Then click on "Block Sender".     This is what I do to block certain ppl, but I go the other route that Alpha uses and told you about to block certain phrases, like ‘ninnyboy’. We use this for communicating with howdy doody so that others don’t have to read anything from him, and if we are copying his posts to reply. Most ppl are very good at including ‘ninnyboy’ in the topic so that we all don’t have to read him. I block that one thru "Message Rules", and follow directions from there for "News". You can also block him from "Mail" too. You can use the "Message Rules" to block certain names in topics, like "Jerry Howe" AKA howdy doody, or "DDR" or his silly little manual’s name, I can’t even remember, I’ve had it blocked for so long now. :) ))     You can also block anything else you’d like from topic and in message.     If you need anymore help, I use the same newsreader, OE, (Outlook Express) so I’ll be very happy to help in any way. :)     Oh, and WELCOME !!!!! to the group, nice to have some more ppl from outside the US.     Do be warned, tho, that certain Canadians, (not mentioning any names but his initials are R.O.C.K.Y), are very weird, and all he wants to chat about are female unmentionables, that most of us gals like to mention, just to see him blush. <neener, Matt> <G> MaryBeth

Response:

Hi MaryBeth, >     This is what I do to block certain ppl, but I go the other route that > Alpha uses and told you about to block certain phrases, like ‘ninnyboy’.

Thanks for the tip!  I hadn’t bothered blocking anything but his email and am considering blocking elaine…. regards, toby

Response:

Just trying to figure this out…..since I see an *awful* lot of posts from him, and also a lot of responses that don’t seem very favorable.  Is this person a troll…..or a troublemaker?   I’m not being sarcastic by any means, just trying to figure out if this person has any good advice, or if he should join Elaine in my "kill file"  Thanks

Response:

Hi denise, > Just trying to figure this out…..since I see an *awful* lot of posts from > him, and also a lot of responses that don’t seem very favorable.  Is this > person a troll…..or a troublemaker?   I’m not being sarcastic by any > means, just trying to figure out if this person has any good advice, or if > he should join Elaine in my "kill file"  Thanks

IMHO, this guy seems like an escapee from a nut house!  He makes claims that he is so brilliant that renown experts can’t understand his marvelous theories and inventions, yet does not possess the logic abilities of a trained rat. He comes in here and accuses everyone who contradicts him of being "koehler trainers" and abusing their dogs.  After he accused ME of being a koehler trainer, I figured I had best go and buy koehler’s book to see what all the fuss was about.  It arrived yesterday, so the jury is still out on whether or not I will adopt some of koehler’s methods…maybe jerry moron will succeed in turning me into a koehler trainer? LOL Your post asking about mr psycho-case is almost identical to one I posted after I first joined the group 3 weeks ago.  My adivce, killfile him.  You can’t escape all of his babbling because some people respond to him and quote him, but hey, killfile works better than DDR at quieting that particular barking dog. regards, Toby

Response:

Fighting plops! (And almost beat)

Question:

We have a new puppy (about 2.5 to 3 months old) and have not previously had a dog. It is a Bijon-Shizu cross and is very small and cute BUT IT PLOPS AND PEES EVERYWHERE ESPECIALLY WHEN WE’RE NOT LOOKING!!! Any suggestions? We have a puppy-training book that says to set out newspapers or a mat in a familiar spot, and when the pup makes a mistake to firmly say NO and put the pup on the mat. Guess what? After 3 weeks there is zero progress. We use a purchased mat, plastic on the bottom and some sort of absorbent material on top that is supposed to have a nature smell. You can sit there with the dog for half an hour watching it – literally – waiting for it to sneak a plop, but nothing happens. So you give up and go do dishes. You turn around 1.5 seconds later and the dog is plopping happily  behind a chair or around the corner on the linoleum. It seemed to me that she wanted some privacy because she always goes around a corner or behind something. So yesterday we put her in a big computer-screen box that she couldn’t get out of, and she immediately pee’d, then wanted out. Later we plunked her in again and she immediately plopped big-time, then wanted out. So now we have made a kind of cardboard wall around her mat hoping she will feel comfortable plopping there. But instead she sometimes lies down there and wants to nap. This is very gross! I am getting dog-unhappy very quick. I realize it is a big responsibility to have a dog, but I at least want to observe some smidgeon of progress. A work associate says to shove the dogs face in it and whack it with a newspaper! He says it worked for them – but I could never do that to an animal. Instead I am looking for intelligent suggestions on how to firmly but decently train her. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance, Micer

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> We have a new puppy (about 2.5 to 3 months old) and have not previously had > a dog. It is a Bijon-Shizu cross and is very small and cute BUT IT PLOPS AND > PEES EVERYWHERE ESPECIALLY WHEN WE’RE NOT LOOKING!!! > Any suggestions? We have a puppy-training book that says to set out > newspapers or a mat in a familiar spot, and when the pup makes a mistake to > firmly say NO and put the pup on the mat. > Guess what? After 3 weeks there is zero progress. We use a purchased mat, > plastic on the bottom and some sort of absorbent material on top that is > supposed to have a nature smell. You can sit there with the dog for half an > hour watching it – literally – waiting for it to sneak a plop, but nothing > happens. So you give up and go do dishes. You turn around 1.5 seconds later > and the dog is plopping happily  behind a chair or around the corner on the > linoleum. > It seemed to me that she wanted some privacy because she always goes around > a corner or behind something. So yesterday we put her in a big > computer-screen box that she couldn’t get out of, and she immediately pee’d, > then wanted out. Later we plunked her in again and she immediately plopped > big-time, then wanted out. So now we have made a kind of cardboard wall > around her mat hoping she will feel comfortable plopping there. But instead > she sometimes lies down there and wants to nap. > This is very gross! I am getting dog-unhappy very quick. I realize it is a > big responsibility to have a dog, but I at least want to observe some > smidgeon of progress. A work associate says to shove the dogs face in it and > whack it with a newspaper! He says it worked for them – but I could never do > that to an animal. Instead I am looking for intelligent suggestions on how > to firmly but decently train her. > Any suggestions? > Thanks in advance, > Micer

HOUSEBREAKING The more you try to "housebreak" her, the more she will do it, and you will never get it done. Here are directions that will quickly get you in good shape with her, but you must follow the directions exactly. Part of the solution is to teach the dog to relieve himself on command, so that the dog knows the purpose of his trip outside, and that he’s got two minutes to relieve himself. That can be done in a couple of days, with a determined effort to supervise and walk the dog as needed when appropriate breaks are necessary, or when the dog shows signs that he needs to go out. Two minutes of standing in one appropriate break area, without walking or talking (which would will only distract the dog.) The request to take a break, should be asked, and if the dog sniffs the ground he should be praised. If he looks around at the birds or other distractions, a second request to take a break should be given. If he sniffs the ground he should be told he’s a good boy,if not, he should elapse the two minutes without walking around and return inside. If he did not relieve himself, constant supervision will be necessary until the dog again shows signs of needing to go. When that happens, it may only be five minutes after having just been out, he should be offered another break, and the same procedure should follow. Two minutes, and that’s it. No more than two requests to relieve himself, and no unnecessary walking. He should be handled on a six foot lead, to prevent hem from wandering around, and getting distracted from his task. You may not have just a housebreaking problem, but also a behavior problem. Every time you react to your dog’s housebreaking mistake, you are reinforcing it as a negative attention getting device. Here’s what you need to do to end your dog’s ability to pull your chain: The behavior is being reinforced when you confront the dog about the behavior. This becomes a vicious cycle, the punishment or scolding only create more stress and anxiety, which may cause other behavior problems as a replacement, even though confronting the dog did seem to "work." Obviously, confronting the dog hasn’t worked, and that should not have been the recommended method to deal with this, or any behavior or housebreaking problem. Keeping the lead on you dog while you go about the house is often recommended, and might occasionally work. You can’t just tie a dog on your belt, and expect him to act like a key chain. The only time the dog should be on lead with you, is when the dog is properly on command. Otherwise, the restriction will cause stress and further promote other behavior problems. How can you deal with the dog tied to you, if you haven’t learned proper lead handling techniques? The pup isn’t a sack of sand, that can be dragged around and dropped anywhere you put it.  Any pulling on the dog’s collar will cause out of control behavior. It’s called the opposition reflex. Now, how do you deal with this? It’s real simple, but you have to not let the dog see your reaction, or he’ll still be "rewarded" for the crime. Ignore the incident. Walk right past the "mistake." It wasn’t a mistake, and you can’t call your physical or verbal attention into the problem without creating more difficulty for yourself. Prearrange a soda can with six pennies in it, in a convenient central location. The can must be picked up silently and unobtrusively, and as you casually, in the presence of the dog, walk by the "dirty deed," you should just ask, "what’s that?" as you subtly drop the can next to the spot, without saying ANYTHING further. Continue doing something else for a moment, and ask the pup if he’d like to do something, like go outside, or anything to get him out of the way, so that you may clean the spot and retrieve the can without him observing and hearing you cuss under your breath about the mess and extra work. When the dog returns to that room with you, he’s going to look at the spot, and look back up at you. You must tell him he is a good boy, and sound like you really mean it. This will blow the dog’s mind, and will render his negative attention getting device that he’s using against you, useless. With a couple of examples of this, the dog will begin to search for other ways to command your attention. Hopefully, he will pick a positive attention getting device. All dogs need attention. What you need to do, is give him that attention prior to the dog getting into trouble. Any time the dog makes even brief eye contact, or glances out of the corner of his eye at you, that moment requires praise, non physical, unless the dog is right by your side.

Response:

cute BUT IT PLOPS AND > PEES EVERYWHERE ESPECIALLY WHEN WE’RE NOT LOOKING!!!

Bingo…the moral of the story is to not let it go anywhere when you aren’t looking.  My pups are either a) in their crates; b) leashed to my belt; c) out in the yard; or d) constantly in my sight – so they can’t even get behind furniture.  Until they are trained, I don’t give them the chance tto make mistakes….or at least very few….lol Get a crate, watch your dog, anticipate the times he needs to go out…. good luck toby

Response:

> We have a new puppy (about 2.5 to 3 months old) and have not previously had > a dog. It is a Bijon-Shizu cross and is very small and cute BUT IT PLOPS AND > PEES EVERYWHERE ESPECIALLY WHEN WE’RE NOT LOOKING!!!

That is your problem.  Puppies are a lot of work. You need to have them out with you as much as you possibly can BUT when you can’t watch them you need to confine them. http://www.k9web.com/dog-faqs/new-puppy.html > Any suggestions? We have a puppy-training book that says to set out > newspapers or a mat in a familiar spot, and when the pup makes a mistake to > firmly say NO and put the pup on the mat.

Some people like to teach their small dogs to eliminate indoors in a special area.  If you don’t have quick access to outside I can see the advantage in that.  However, if you *do* have quick access to outside your housetraining will go much faster if you always take the dog outside to eliminate. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Guess what? After 3 weeks there is zero progress. We use a purchased mat, > plastic on the bottom and some sort of absorbent material on top that is > supposed to have a nature smell. You can sit there with the dog for half an > hour watching it – literally – waiting for it to sneak a plop, but nothing > happens. So you give up and go do dishes. You turn around 1.5 seconds later > and the dog is plopping happily  behind a chair or around the corner on the > linoleum. > It seemed to me that she wanted some privacy because she always goes around > a corner or behind something. So yesterday we put her in a big > computer-screen box that she couldn’t get out of, and she immediately pee’d, > then wanted out. Later we plunked her in again and she immediately plopped > big-time, then wanted out. So now we have made a kind of cardboard wall > around her mat hoping she will feel comfortable plopping there. But instead > she sometimes lies down there and wants to nap. > This is very gross! I am getting dog-unhappy very quick. I realize it is a > big responsibility to have a dog, but I at least want to observe some > smidgeon of progress. A work associate says to shove the dogs face in it and > whack it with a newspaper! He says it worked for them – but I could never do > that to an animal. Instead I am looking for intelligent suggestions on how > to firmly but decently train her.

You are right not to follow that advice. Here is some more reading on housetraining. This is one of the better explanations: http://www.learn2.com/08/0827/0827.asp but here are some more: http://www.uwsp.edu/psych/dog/lib-SpecTrain.htm#house Diane Blackman http://www.dog-play.com  http://www.dog-play.com/TOTE.html "If others’ interpretations either bother us or recur, we owe it to ourselves and our dogs to reevaluate our own orientation carefully.  If we find ourselves becoming angry and defensive, chances are our own interpretations are the incorrect ones.  "The Body Language and Emotion of Dogs" by Myrna M. Milani, DVM.

Response:

Hello alpha wolf,

> cute BUT IT PLOPS AND > PEES EVERYWHERE ESPECIALLY WHEN WE’RE NOT LOOKING!!! > Bingo…the moral of the story is to not let it go anywhere when you aren’t > looking.

That’s not training, that’s forced control. > My pups are either a) in their crates; b) leashed to my belt; c) > out in the yard; or d) constantly in my sight – so they can’t even get > behind furniture.

Right. And you continue to crate, confine, and jerk and choke your dogs. They are not well behaved, or else you wouldn’t be SEEKING a SHOCK COLLAR to use on them. >  Until they are trained, I don’t give them the chance tto > make mistakes….or at least very few….lol

Yes, you’re right on top of them, and THAT’S WHY you can’t TRUST them, they’ve never LEARNED, because you are always there FORCING CONTROL. > Get a crate, watch your dog, anticipate the times he needs to go out….

In three dozen years of professional dog training, I’ve NEVER advised a person to crate their dog. > good luck

You can rely on luck. It’s abundant, but risky. I’d prefer to rely on the scientific and psychological behavior modification techniques as taught in the Wits’ End Dog Training Method manual available for free at http://www.doggydoright.com > toby

 Why don’t you try answering the questions below?: Koehler On Correcting The Housebreaking Backslider. "If the punishment is not severe enough, some of these "backsliders" will think they’re winning and will continue to mess in the house. An indelible impression can sometimes be made by giving the dog a hard spanking of long duration, then leaving him tied by the mess he’s made so you can come back at twenty minute intervals and punish him again for the same thing. (Dogs are REALLY stupid. J.H.) HOWE does koehler KNOW the dog don’t think he’s coming back to beat him every twenty minutes for the same mistake, just because you’re mad at him, instead of just TRAINING him??? See what I mean? You can’t justify that.

"Nope. That "beating dogs with sticks" things is something you twisted out of context, because you are full of bizarro manure." "Read koehler for content" marquis de shaw, IDIOT, Sadist, rpdb regular. "I LOVE KOHELER" lyinglynn, IDIOT, pathological liar, noted dog abuser. Koehler On Correcting The Barking Dog Thunder through the door or gate, snatch up the belt that you’ve conveniently placed, and descend on him. He’ll have no chance to dodge if you grab the line and reel him in until his front feet are  raised off the floor or, if he’s a big dog, until you’ve snubbed him up with a hitch on something (ceiling hook, rafters, tree limb, door, or even over your shoulder, if you know HOWE. j.h.) While he’s held in close, lay the strap vigorously against his thighs. Keep pouring it on him until he thinks it’s the bitter end. A real whaling now may cut down somewhat on the number of repeat performances that will be necessary. When you’re finished and the dog is convinced that he is, put him on a long down to think things over while you catch your breath. After fifteen or twenty minutes, release him from the stay and leave the area again." Tell us HOWE the dog knows he shouldn’t be barking? That is, until the beatings take effect, after ENOUGH lessons of "hard spankings of long duration??? It’s IN THE BOOK. Tell us  HOWE COME you think dogs might want to take a big chunk out of an abusive Thug who beats him every twenty minutes for crappin on the floor in a room you’ve restricted him to for this purpose, and then tied him next to a forced accident? And when koehler OCCASIONALLY finds a dog who objects to his training, why does he HANG the dog, instead of calming them down and teaching them there’s nothing to be afraid of??? That’s the ONLY question ANYONE of you CAN answer. The answer is OBVIOUS. koehler trainers are DOG ABUSING COWARDS HOWE MUCH brains does it take to beat a dog every twenty minutes for the same mistake you’ve tied it next to??? But I might like shooting them with a sling shot or BB gun better, you know, to teach the dog to WANT to stay at home Our professor of behavior Wisc. U., lyingdoc dermer endorses koehler. (He said: "I punish dog’s behavior, NOT the dog." You gonna believe THAT CRAP, PEOPLE??? Ask PROFESSOR DERMER to tell us HOWE the dog understands koehler coming back every twenty minutes to punish him again for the same mistake he’s tied him up next to, to housetrain him??? Go ahead and ASK HIM. The dirty COWARD won’t talk to me about it. He won’t talk to Marilyn about it, and he can’t say SHE’S been INCIVIL WITH HIM. We know HOWE SENSITIVE our koehler trainers are… "There’s much wisdom in koehler," deana pace. (Her dogs run away from home.) "Read koehler," lyingdogDUMMY. (koehler is all he understands.) "Read koehler & cindymorons k-9 web faq’s page," ludwig smith. "Don’t let him do that & read cindymooreon’s web page," boob maida. > lyinglynn writes to a new foster care giver: > For barking in the crate – leave the leash on and > pass it through the crate door.  Attach a line to it. > When he barks, use the line for a correction.

Amy lyingfrosty dahl LIES with a straight face and says: "I don’t beat dogs, twist ears, or pinch toes. For the benefit of anyone who is in doubt, and who chooses not to read the article (SHE’D REALLY LIKE IT IF YOU DON’T READ IT!), there is NO mention in it of "twisting ears (INDEED, SHE PINCHES THEM WITH SPIKES). "Get a stick 30- or 40-inches long. You can have a helper wield the stick, or do it yourself. Tougher, less tractable dogs may require you to progress to striking them more sharply. REPEAT, VARYING HOW HARD YOU HIT THE DOG. I would never slap a dog (SHE TEACHES PEOPLE TO BEAT DOGS WITH STICKS TO MOTIVATE THEM). I would never advise anyone to slap a dog (SHE’S A PROVEN LIAR AND DOG ABUSER, do you expect her to ADMIT THE TRUTH???). I do not believe there is a single circumstance, ever, where slapping a dog is anything but destructive." RIGHT. She PINCHES, not twists… and chin cuff doesn’t mean hit, according to lyinglynn and avrama…. amy lyingfrosty dahl continues: Make the dog’s need to stop the pinching so urgent that resisting your will fades in importance. but will squeal, thrash around, and direct their efforts to escaping the ear pinch even get a studded collar and pinch the ear against that if the dog still does not open its mouth, get out the shotshell. Try pinching the ear between the metal casing and the collar, even the buckle on the collar. Persist! Eventually, the dog will give in" With your hand on the collar and ear, say, ‘fetch.’ Immediately tap the dog on the hindquarters with the stick. Repeat "fetch" and pinch the ear all the way to the dummy. You can press the dog’s ear with a shotshell instead of your thumb; Say "fetch" while pressing the dummy against its lips and pinching its ear. Gotta LOVE koehler. dahl makes koheler look like St. Francis. "Read for koehler for content" Mark Shaw, Idiot, Sadist, rpdb regular. "I LOVE KOHELER" lyinglynn, IDIOT, pathological liar, noted dog abuser. "There’s much wisdom in koehler," deana pace. (Her dogs run away from home.) "Read koehler," lyingdogDUMMY. (koehler is all he understands.) "Read koehler, cindymorons k-9 web faq’s page," ludwig smith. "Don’t let him do that, read cindymooreon’s web page," boob maida. And the prongs sticking and pinching into the dog’s throat is NOT DURESS. That’s why the dogs get "excited" when they see their "training" collars come out. They are BEGGING not to hurt them some moore. It’s the same way lyingfrosty dahl and freaky frantik fraud die get that animated look in their dogs when they work. The dog is TERRIFIED. The wiggling and happy look is ANXIETY, FEAR, and SUBMISSION. The dog is BEGGING not to hurt him some more. "Get a stick 30- or 40-inches long. You can have a helper wield the stick, or do it yourself. Tougher, less tractable dogs may require you to progress to striking them more sharply. REPEAT, VARYING HOW HARD YOU HIT THE DOG.

Response:

Hello blackman, > That is your problem.  Puppies are a lot of work. You need to have them out with you > as much as you possibly can BUT when you can’t watch them you need to confine them.

Confining the dog CAUSES housebreaking problems. That’s not training, that’s avoiding the problem, and not allowing the dog to recognize the home as his den. Housebreaking is NATURAL for dogs, but when you crate them, they ONLY recognize the crate as where they shouldn’t relieve themselves. > http://www.k9web.com/dog-faqs/new-puppy.html

Now, this website you recommend? That’s cindymooreon’s page. She teaches the most violent methods in creation. She’s been banned from TWO dog training clubs, because they can’t have a vicious Thug like her jerking and choking her dogs on their property. She shoves fingers down puppy’s throats to choke them out of mouthing, and is only concerned with getting SLIME on her fingers. Then, when the pup will NEVER put something in it’s mouth, she twists and pinches it’s ears and toes, to make him pick up a retrieve article. She DEPENDS on the alph roll as her "heaviest weapon in her training arsenal," despite that it’s been PROVEN to cause extreme risk of provoking the dog to attack his trainer. She knees dogs in the chest and steps on their toes and throws them to the ground and climbs all over them like a raped ape, to break them of jumping. She chin cuffs, scruff shakes, and recommends shoving dog’s heads under water you’ve filled into a hole the dog has dug. > Any suggestions? We have a puppy-training book that says to set out > newspapers or a mat in a familiar spot, and when the pup makes a mistake to > firmly say NO and put the pup on the mat.

Of course scolding the dog is going to reinforce the behavior PROBLEM. > Some people like to teach their small dogs to eliminate indoors in a special > area.  If you don’t have quick access to outside I can see the advantage in > that.  However, if you *do* have quick access to outside your housetraining > will go much faster if you always take the dog outside to eliminate.

Is that so? You think dogs are STUPID. Dogs have more intelligence than you do, blackman. You only understand forced control. > Guess what? After 3 weeks there is zero progress. We use a purchased mat, > plastic on the bottom and some sort of absorbent material on top that is > supposed to have a nature smell. You can sit there with the dog for half an > hour watching it – literally – waiting for it to sneak a plop, but nothing > happens. So you give up and go do dishes. You turn around 1.5 seconds later > and the dog is plopping happily  behind a chair or around the corner on the > linoleum.

That’s because they’ve been scolding the dog for eliminating inappropriately. It’s insane to punish the dog for doing what you want him to do in front of you, and then wonder why he won’t do it when you’re watching. This is the crux of the problem for MOST behavior problems… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> It seemed to me that she wanted some privacy because she always goes around > a corner or behind something. So yesterday we put her in a big > computer-screen box that she couldn’t get out of, and she immediately pee’d, > then wanted out. Later we plunked her in again and she immediately plopped > big-time, then wanted out. So now we have made a kind of cardboard wall > around her mat hoping she will feel comfortable plopping there. But instead > she sometimes lies down there and wants to nap. > This is very gross! I am getting dog-unhappy very quick. I realize it is a > big responsibility to have a dog, but I at least want to observe some > smidgeon of progress. A work associate says to shove the dogs face in it and > whack it with a newspaper! He says it worked for them – but I could never do > that to an animal. Instead I am looking for intelligent suggestions on how > to firmly but decently train her. > You are right not to follow that advice. Here is some more reading on housetraining. > This is one of the better explanations: > http://www.learn2.com/08/0827/0827.asp

From the link above: "And when he’s been naughty? A very firm "No!" is far more effective than a rolled-up newspaper." That’s what I was just telling them not to do. > but here are some more: > http://www.uwsp.edu/psych/dog/lib-SpecTrain.htm#house

And there we find more bad information. I suggest people stay away from those pages you recommend. They’ll only teach people to confront, confine, punish, and dominate their dogs, and continue fighting dog behavior problems for years, as you have yourself. Your own dogs are day boarded becasue they are not trustworthy at home alone. You’ve got a dog who’s been a chronic puller for five years, despite EVERYTHING you’ve done to force control. You even knit little cover-ups for the pronged choke collar so your pals don’t see what you’ve got to do to control your own dog. > Diane Blackman > http://www.dog-play.com  http://www.dog-play.com/TOTE.html > "If others’ interpretations either bother us or recur, we owe it to > ourselves and our dogs to reevaluate our own orientation carefully.  If we > find ourselves becoming angry and defensive, chances are our own > interpretations are the incorrect ones.  "The Body Language and Emotion of > Dogs" by Myrna M. Milani, DVM.

You got a big yap. Care to answer a couple of questions???: Koehler On Correcting The Housebreaking Backslider. "If the punishment is not severe enough, some of these "backsliders" will think they’re winning and will continue to mess in the house. An indelible impression can sometimes be made by giving the dog a hard spanking of long duration, then leaving him tied by the mess he’s made so you can come back at twenty minute intervals and punish him again for the same thing. (Dogs are REALLY stupid. J.H.) HOWE does koehler KNOW the dog don’t think he’s coming back to beat him every twenty minutes for the same mistake, just because you’re mad at him, instead of just TRAINING him??? See what I mean? You can’t justify that.

"Nope. That "beating dogs with sticks" things is something you twisted out of context, because you are full of bizarro manure." "Read koehler for content" marquis de shaw, IDIOT, Sadist, rpdb regular. "I LOVE KOHELER" lyinglynn, IDIOT, pathological liar, noted dog abuser. Koehler On Correcting The Barking Dog Thunder through the door or gate, snatch up the belt that you’ve conveniently placed, and descend on him. He’ll have no chance to dodge if you grab the line and reel him in until his front feet are  raised off the floor or, if he’s a big dog, until you’ve snubbed him up with a hitch on something (ceiling hook, rafters, tree limb, door, or even over your shoulder, if you know HOWE. j.h.) While he’s held in close, lay the strap vigorously against his thighs. Keep pouring it on him until he thinks it’s the bitter end. A real whaling now may cut down somewhat on the number of repeat performances that will be necessary. When you’re finished and the dog is convinced that he is, put him on a long down to think things over while you catch your breath. After fifteen or twenty minutes, release him from the stay and leave the area again." Tell us HOWE the dog knows he shouldn’t be barking? That is, until the beatings take effect, after ENOUGH lessons of "hard spankings of long duration??? It’s IN THE BOOK. Tell us  HOWE COME you think dogs might want to take a big chunk out of an abusive Thug who beats him every twenty minutes for crappin on the floor in a room you’ve restricted him to for this purpose, and then tied him next to a forced accident? And when koehler OCCASIONALLY finds a dog who objects to his training, why does he HANG the dog, instead of calming them down and teaching them there’s nothing to be afraid of??? That’s the ONLY question ANYONE of you CAN answer. The answer is OBVIOUS. koehler trainers are DOG ABUSING COWARDS HOWE MUCH brains does it take to beat a dog every twenty minutes for the same mistake you’ve tied it next to??? But I might like shooting them with a sling shot or BB gun better, you know, to teach the dog to WANT to stay at home Our professor of behavior Wisc. U., lyingdoc dermer endorses koehler. (He said: "I punish dog’s behavior, NOT the dog." You gonna believe THAT CRAP, PEOPLE??? Ask PROFESSOR DERMER to tell us HOWE the dog understands koehler coming back every twenty minutes to punish him again for the same mistake he’s tied him up next to, to housetrain him??? Go ahead and ASK HIM. The dirty COWARD won’t talk to me about it. He won’t talk to Marilyn about it, and he can’t say SHE’S been INCIVIL WITH HIM. We know HOWE SENSITIVE our koehler trainers are… "There’s much wisdom in koehler," deana pace. (Her dogs run away from home.) "Read koehler," lyingdogDUMMY. (koehler is all he understands.) "Read koehler & cindymorons k-9 web faq’s page," ludwig smith. "Don’t let him do that & read cindymooreon’s web page," boob maida. > lyinglynn writes to a new foster care giver: > For barking in the crate – leave the leash on and > pass it through the crate door.  Attach a line to it. > When he barks, use the line for a correction.

Amy lyingfrosty dahl LIES with a straight face and says: "I don’t beat dogs, twist ears, or pinch toes. For the benefit of anyone who is in doubt, and who chooses not to read the article (SHE’D REALLY LIKE IT IF YOU DON’T READ IT!), there is NO mention in it of "twisting ears (INDEED, SHE PINCHES THEM WITH SPIKES). "Get a stick 30- or 40-inches long. You can have a helper wield the stick, or do it yourself. Tougher, less tractable dogs may require you to progress to striking them more sharply. REPEAT, VARYING HOW HARD YOU HIT THE DOG. I would never slap a dog (SHE TEACHES PEOPLE TO BEAT DOGS WITH STICKS TO MOTIVATE THEM). I would never advise anyone to slap a dog (SHE’S A PROVEN LIAR AND … read more »

Response:

>In three dozen years of professional dog training, I’ve NEVER advised a person to crate >their dog.

So you have been giving people bad advice for over thirty years

Response:

Some very good success! We tried a sandbox in the backyard rather than the indoor mat, but no luck. The pup just dug in the sand and snuffled around in it. Then we tried taking the pup out onto the gravel where she couldn’t be distracted. She sniffs around and then goes both ends within 1.5 minutes. We keep her on a short leash, which is less confining that trying to hold her in the "gravel zone". She doesn’t buck the leash at all; instead she seems very happy to be outside and sniff the air and gravel. After she’s done we give her a nice treat. This is working out very well. She just did not take to the indoor mat at all. PS: Thanks for all the advice. Micer

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> We have a new puppy (about 2.5 to 3 months old) and have not previously had > a dog. It is a Bijon-Shizu cross and is very small and cute BUT IT PLOPS AND > PEES EVERYWHERE ESPECIALLY WHEN WE’RE NOT LOOKING!!! > Any suggestions? We have a puppy-training book that says to set out > newspapers or a mat in a familiar spot, and when the pup makes a mistake to > firmly say NO and put the pup on the mat. > Guess what? After 3 weeks there is zero progress. We use a purchased mat, > plastic on the bottom and some sort of absorbent material on top that is > supposed to have a nature smell. You can sit there with the dog for half an > hour watching it – literally – waiting for it to sneak a plop, but nothing > happens. So you give up and go do dishes. You turn around 1.5 seconds later > and the dog is plopping happily  behind a chair or around the corner on the > linoleum. > It seemed to me that she wanted some privacy because she always goes around > a corner or behind something. So yesterday we put her in a big > computer-screen box that she couldn’t get out of, and she immediately pee’d, > then wanted out. Later we plunked her in again and she immediately plopped > big-time, then wanted out. So now we have made a kind of cardboard wall > around her mat hoping she will feel comfortable plopping there. But instead > she sometimes lies down there and wants to nap. > This is very gross! I am getting dog-unhappy very quick. I realize it is a > big responsibility to have a dog, but I at least want to observe some > smidgeon of progress. A work associate says to shove the dogs face in it and > whack it with a newspaper! He says it worked for them – but I could never do > that to an animal. Instead I am looking for intelligent suggestions on how > to firmly but decently train her. > Any suggestions? > Thanks in advance, > Micer

Response:

Hello alpha wolf, If your "methods" were so good, you wouldn’t be looking into SHOCK COLLARS to "tighten up" the loose edges in your "repertoire" of dog training techniques… Trainers who need to HURT dogs to train them aren’t bright enough to outwit a puppy dog. You’re a FRAUD. Your pal, Jerry "The Phony," Howe.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> cute BUT IT PLOPS AND > PEES EVERYWHERE ESPECIALLY WHEN WE’RE NOT LOOKING!!! > Bingo…the moral of the story is to not let it go anywhere when you aren’t > looking.  My pups are either a) in their crates; b) leashed to my belt; c) > out in the yard; or d) constantly in my sight – so they can’t even get > behind furniture.  Until they are trained, I don’t give them the chance tto > make mistakes….or at least very few….lol > Get a crate, watch your dog, anticipate the times he needs to go out…. > good luck > toby

Response:

Housebreaking and Table Jumping

Question:

We finally got our two beagles housetrained.  My hunch turned out to be correct–in her early stages of training, Natasha apparently was distracted by Boris and not paying attention to her own "needs."  For about two weeks, we walked them separately, until she got  into a rhythm, and now can take them out in the backyard together and even for walks together without a problem!  Sometimes, just trusting your instincts can be the best solution…. On another note, Boris has just developed a new habit–jumping up on the kitchen table to look out the front window!  I discovered this Saturday when I was in the front yard raking leaves, and looked up to see him standing on all fours looking back at me.  He was there this morning when I came out of the shower.  We tried closing the blinds, but he wasn’t fooled, as my husband found him on the table with his head poked through the blinds when he entered the room.  We immediately tell him "down" and he tends to listen, but we cannot control him when we are not at home, and I want to break him of this habit before it becomes too routine.  Moving the table is not an option in our small kitchen. Any thoughts?  I would prefer that those seeking to only post sarcastic replies not reply at all.  Thank you.  Kim

Response:

>at home, and I want to break him of this habit before it becomes too >routine.  Moving the table is not an option in our small kitchen.

Try putting some plastic carpet runner, pointy side up, on the top of the table :) Dogstar716 Come see Gunnars Life: http://hometown.aol.com/dogstar716/index.html "AKC papers do not mean you are getting a quality dog. They are merely a birth certificate. Even puppy mill pet shop pups have AKC papers" – Bob Maida

Response:

You might try booby-trapping the table. We put shake cans on our table (empty pop cans with a few coins in them) to keep our beagle off of it. When she’d jump up the cans would get knocked over and the sound it made startled her enough to keep her off of it. If he’s not sound sensitive, you might try upside down carpet runner (so the little plastic spikes are pointing up). Think of his personality and try to come up with something to make the table unpleasant. Good luck. Two beagles named Boris and Natasha — tooooooo cute! -jill – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > We finally got our two beagles housetrained.  My hunch turned out to be > correct–in her early stages of training, Natasha apparently was > distracted by Boris and not paying attention to her own "needs."  For > about two weeks, we walked them separately, until she got  into a > rhythm, and now can take them out in the backyard together and even for > walks together without a problem!  Sometimes, just trusting your > instincts can be the best solution…. > On another note, Boris has just developed a new habit–jumping up on the > kitchen table to look out the front window!  I discovered this Saturday > when I was in the front yard raking leaves, and looked up to see him > standing on all fours looking back at me.  He was there this morning > when I came out of the shower.  We tried closing the blinds, but he > wasn’t fooled, as my husband found him on the table with his head poked > through the blinds when he entered the room.  We immediately tell him > "down" and he tends to listen, but we cannot control him when we are not > at home, and I want to break him of this habit before it becomes too > routine.  Moving the table is not an option in our small kitchen. > Any thoughts?  I would prefer that those seeking to only post sarcastic > replies not reply at all.  Thank you.  Kim

Response:

You almost got it. j;~} – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > You might try booby-trapping the table. We put shake cans on our table > (empty pop cans with a few coins in them) to keep our beagle off of it. When > she’d jump up the cans would get knocked over and the sound it made startled > her enough to keep her off of it. If he’s not sound sensitive, you might try > upside down carpet runner (so the little plastic spikes are pointing up). > Think of his personality and try to come up with something to make the table > unpleasant. > Good luck. Two beagles named Boris and Natasha — tooooooo cute! > -jill > We finally got our two beagles housetrained.  My hunch turned out to be > correct–in her early stages of training, Natasha apparently was > distracted by Boris and not paying attention to her own "needs."  For > about two weeks, we walked them separately, until she got  into a > rhythm, and now can take them out in the backyard together and even for > walks together without a problem!  Sometimes, just trusting your > instincts can be the best solution…. > On another note, Boris has just developed a new habit–jumping up on the > kitchen table to look out the front window!  I discovered this Saturday > when I was in the front yard raking leaves, and looked up to see him > standing on all fours looking back at me.  He was there this morning > when I came out of the shower.  We tried closing the blinds, but he > wasn’t fooled, as my husband found him on the table with his head poked > through the blinds when he entered the room.  We immediately tell him > "down" and he tends to listen, but we cannot control him when we are not > at home, and I want to break him of this habit before it becomes too > routine.  Moving the table is not an option in our small kitchen. > Any thoughts?  I would prefer that those seeking to only post sarcastic > replies not reply at all.  Thank you.  Kim

Response:

> On another note, Boris has just developed a new habit–jumping up on the > kitchen table to look out the front window!  I discovered this Saturday > when I was in the front yard raking leaves, and looked up to see him > standing on all fours looking back at me.  He was there this morning > when I came out of the shower.  We tried closing the blinds, but he > wasn’t fooled, as my husband found him on the table with his head poked > through the blinds when he entered the room.  We immediately tell him > "down" and he tends to listen, but we cannot control him when we are not > at home, and I want to break him of this habit before it becomes too > routine.  Moving the table is not an option in our small kitchen. > Any thoughts?  I would prefer that those seeking to only post sarcastic > replies not reply at all.  Thank you.  Kim

Hell Kim, Telling him to down when you catch him on the table will not break his desier to do that behavior. Most often it is our inappropriate intervention in dog behavior problems that complicates the issues. Using this technique is the easiest and fastest way to break any behavior. There are a number of things that have to be considered when beginning this approach. A few preliminary exercises in the Wits’ End Dog Training Method manual available at: http://www.doggydoright.com will explain the basic handling techniques you should learn. Using them will insure that the method will work to a high degree of proficiency. The problem is that not many people understand how to use the sound distraction and praise techniques correctly, and do not know HOWE to use the come command as a default, if the sound does not work on occasion. When you are told these methods have been tried and didn’t work, rest assured that whomever "tried" it and for whom it did not work, did not "try" doing it correctly. If the technique does not work, the come command is to be used as a default, and a new attempt at addressing the problem can begin. I’ve heard a couple of the "experts" here saying they’ve tried it, and it didn’t work for them, or it made their dog nervous. Those are usually the experts that choke and shock dogs, and are trying to FORCE the dog using sound instead of choking or shocking…Many of them have never read the techniques presented here, and are using inappropriate or incorrect methods. There are some people that do not follow directions and get lousy results, and there are people that do not allow the technique adequate repetition to be successful. Those problems may occur if the technique is not done precisely. There is no excuse that these techniques will not work if done correctly, they are a scientific fact. Any sound will suffice. Ideally, the sound would be the same each time, but that is not always possible. A single clap of the hands or snap of the fingers would do, if it were followed by praise, and as long as it does not happen twice in succession from the same point of origin. That’s why several penny cans are required. You cannot use the same can for more than two occasions in succession. The sound must always be accompanied with praise. The sound must never occur from the same point of origin twice in succession. The sound must be brief. Any UNINTENTIONAL sounding should be avoided and PRAISED if it occurs. That will let the dog know it was not intended for them. When more than one dog is present when using sound distractions and praise techniques, all dogs present must receive praise with direct eye contact so they will UNDERSTAND they were not being addressed. The praise must continue constantly for several seconds following any sound cue to allow the thought process to be completed. The behavior must be allowed or made to be repeated and interrupted using sound and praise until the behavior is broken. And most importantly, the moment the dog thinks of resuming the behavior, you must praise him. That’s right. When the dog thinks about resuming the behavior, if you praise him at that exact moment, the previous corrections will be restimulated in the dogs mind, and the behavior will be extinguished. That seems to be the real hard part for the trainers here to understand. They want to make it happen, and they interfere with the dog’s thought process. The dog will learn through the process of elimination of alternative actions or behaviors. It takes a few minutes, and the behavior is eliminated, rather than repressed and seething to resume, as is the case with physical or verbal corrections, confrontation, or punishment "techniques." The trainer will confound his efforts when they insist on telling the dog "NO!," instead of relying on the conditioning that has been established. Shouting at the dog will often trigger the opposite of the desired effect. What further complicates the process for the trainer, is that they break the conditioning when they respond with a different corrective technique out of a reflexive reaction of their own, such as screaming "No!," or reaching out to grab the dog and physically correcting the dog for a further instance of malbehavior, rather than taking the moment to think about the best way to address the problem, and if necessary search for a can and follow through with the appropriate sound and praise. The process must be carried out using an alternate source of sound for the next interruption. An associate could be enlisted and instructed to clap their hands on signal to accomplish the desired sound interruption. We want the dog to exhaust all of the alternative malbehaviors he can pull out of his bag of tricks, in order for us to extinguish them EACH in turn. Any time we interact in a behavior by telling the dog no, or physically restrain or correct him, we are becoming part of the behavior, either as a player or competitor in the dogs mischief. Using sound as a distraction must always be followed by immediate, prolonged, non physical praise. Interrupting a behavior with sound should never be associated with us, as in voicing no, or telling the dog to stop it. The behavior should NOT be distracted with any PHYSICAL INTERVENTION. We want the behavior to begin again, so that we may have another opportunity to properly address the behavior with another sound and praise. That way, we can completely end a problem while the dog is THINKING about it, and we are prepared to address the issue before it becomes out of control. The sound must never occur twice in a row from the same direction. In other words, if you snapped your fingers in front of the dog to stop him from chewing on your shoelace, you’d praise him for five to fifteen seconds immediately upon snapping your fingers. The behavior will hopefully resume, and the next attempt at chewing the shoelace, the sound of the snap of your fingers must come from behind the dog, or even from a friend assisting from across the room, from a soda can with a few pennies in it, or any source of sound (except our voice!), followed by prolonged non physical praise, until the dog is no longer thinking about the behavior or resumes it. The third interruption of the behavior usually gets the message across, and the dog will think about the behavior for just a moment before engaging in it once again for the fourth and last time… That split second thinking about engaging in the behavior requires praise. Do not react to it with a challenge of shouting no, or physically removing the temptation. That moment of thinking about resuming the behavior and the praise it earns him, will validate the prior interruptions of that behavior.The dog then needs to test it out, to be sure that the same behavior will be dealt with in exactly the same manner. They will usually make a fourth attempt at the behavior, and if you follow through appropriately, he will learn not to do that behavior anymore. But only on the one shoelace! He must take that behavior to other instances to fully cease the desire for the behavior. The behavior will not be completely broken until he has taken the process of elimination to the second, third, and fourth opportunity to explore that behavior. And, even at that, you may need to repeat the process in four completely different places. That means that the worst behavior may need up to sixty-four properly timed interruptions and praise. Usually it happens much quicker than that. Breaking a behavior in this manner reduces stress, takes us out of the position of negative enforcer or competitor or playmate, and allows the dog to extinguish a behavior because he simply doesn’t get any satisfaction from it. The other secret is giving the dog a payoff for every time they look at you. Each time you notice eye contact from your dog, you must praise him verbally, to keep him always thinking of you and to prevent his idle mind from doing the devils work. You can get all the information you need to properly handle and train your dog using non force, non confrontational, scientific and psychological behavior modification and conditioning techniques, from the Wits’ End Dog Training Method manual available for free at http://www.doggydoright.com You can get all the information you need to properly handle and train your dog using non force, non confrontational, scientific and psychological behavior modification and conditioning techniques, from the Wits’ End Dog Training Method manual available for free at http://www.doggydoright.com "Thus we should beware of clinging to vulgar opinions, and judge things by reason’s way, not by popular say." Montaigne "Violence is the last refuge of the incompetent." Salvor Hardin "If you cannot convince them, confuse them." H.S. Truman. DRAINING THE SWAMP, AND RELOCATING THE GATORS… j;~) "CUSTOM WILL RECONCILE PEOPLE TO ANY ATROCITY." G.B. Shaw. "I know that most men, including those at ease with problems of the greatest complexity, can seldom … read more »

Response:

>There is no >excuse that these techniques will not work if done correctly, >they are a scientific fact.

Oh it works on elves. >Any sound will suffice. Ideally, the sound would be the same >each time, but that is not always possible. A single clap of the >hands or snap of the fingers would do, if it were followed by >praise, and as long as it does not happen twice in succession >from the same point of origin. That’s why several penny cans >are required.

You use your life savings huh. > You cannot use the same can for more than two >occasions in succession. The sound must always be >accompanied with praise. The sound must never occur from the >same point of origin twice in succession.

So run around the house like a retard throwing cans all over the place. > The sound must be >brief. Any UNINTENTIONAL sounding should be avoided and >PRAISED if it occurs. That will let the dog know it was not >intended for them. When more than one dog is present when >using sound distractions and praise techniques, all dogs present >must receive praise with direct eye contact so they will >UNDERSTAND they were not being addressed.

This technique is the result of having a lobotomy >That’s right. When the dog thinks about resuming the behavior, if >you praise him at that exact moment, the previous corrections >will be restimulated in the dogs mind, and the behavior will be >extinguished.

Meaning he will here penny cans flying through the air, this also works better if your dog is on LSD so he has complete flashbacks. >The trainer will confound his efforts when they insist on telling >the dog "NO!," instead of relying on the conditioning that has >been established.

Yes, let’s let the dog go through a complicated thought process instead of just teaching the dog the meaning of the word NO.

Response:

Perhaps you need to consider crate training or using baby gates to keep him out of the kitchen when you are not there to supervise. I have also heard that some dogs are turned off jumping up on things if you put a light table cloth over it and a fan under it (one of the rotating ones) so that the breeze blows the table cloth out. This apparently makes them unable to judge the distance to the top or to be unable to reach it as they can’t get close. I think in this case the cloth would have to be large enough to reach almost to the floor, and make sure the fan is not on too high or not of the sort that your dog could get hurt on if he gets too close. Good luck, and have you seen the pine sol commercial with a similar scenario?? It is too funny! Melissa – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > We finally got our two beagles housetrained.  My hunch turned out to be > correct–in her early stages of training, Natasha apparently was > distracted by Boris and not paying attention to her own "needs."  For > about two weeks, we walked them separately, until she got  into a > rhythm, and now can take them out in the backyard together and even for > walks together without a problem!  Sometimes, just trusting your > instincts can be the best solution…. > On another note, Boris has just developed a new habit–jumping up on the > kitchen table to look out the front window!  I discovered this Saturday > when I was in the front yard raking leaves, and looked up to see him > standing on all fours looking back at me.  He was there this morning > when I came out of the shower.  We tried closing the blinds, but he > wasn’t fooled, as my husband found him on the table with his head poked > through the blinds when he entered the room.  We immediately tell him > "down" and he tends to listen, but we cannot control him when we are not > at home, and I want to break him of this habit before it becomes too > routine.  Moving the table is not an option in our small kitchen. > Any thoughts?  I would prefer that those seeking to only post sarcastic > replies not reply at all.  Thank you.  Kim

Response:

Hello Melissa, > Perhaps you need to consider crate training or using baby gates to keep him > out of the kitchen when you are not there to supervise.

Or, perhaps she OUGHT to consider TRAINING? That’s always worked for my students… > I have also heard that some dogs are turned off jumping up on things if you > put a light table cloth over it and a fan under it (one of the rotating ones) so > that the breeze blows the table cloth out.

Or, they could just TRAIN the dog. It would take less time than setting up a tablecloth and fan… IF you knew HOWE. > This apparently makes them unable to judge the distance to the top or to be > unable to reach it as they can’t get close.

I wouldn’t bet on it. > I think in this case the cloth would have to be large enough to reach almost > to the floor, and make sure the fan is not on too high or not of the sort > that your dog could get hurt on if he gets too close.

It would take about five minutes to train the dog not to jump on the table using sound distraction and praise techniques. > Good luck, and have you seen the pine sol commercial with a similar > scenario?? It is too funny!

No. But pine sol is not recommended for use around dogs, it contains phenols. > Melissa

You can get all the information you need to properly handle and train your dog using non force, non confrontational, scientific and psychological behavior modification and conditioning techniques, from the Wits’ End Dog Training Method manual available for free at http://www.doggydoright.com "Thus we should beware of clinging to vulgar opinions, and judge things by reason’s way, not by popular say." Montaigne "Violence is the last refuge of the incompetent." Salvor Hardin "If you cannot convince them, confuse them." H.S. Truman. DRAINING THE SWAMP, AND RELOCATING THE GATORS… j;~) "CUSTOM WILL RECONCILE PEOPLE TO ANY ATROCITY." G.B. Shaw. "I know that most men, including those at ease with problems of the greatest complexity, can seldom accept even the simplest and most obvious truth if it would oblige them to admit the falsity of conclusions which they have delighted in explaining to colleagues, proudly taught to others, and which they have woven, thread by thread, into the fabric of their lives."                                              Leo Tolstoy Is it any wonder that the following sig file has generated more complaints to my personal email than any other controversial post I have made to date, bar none?:                                             caveat If you have to do things to your dog to train him, that you would rather not have to do, then you shouldn’t be doing them. If you have a dog trainer that tells you to jerk your dog around, choke him, pinch his ears, or twist his toes, shock, shake, slap, scold, hit, or punish him in any manner, that corrections are appropriate, that the dog won’t think of you as the punisher, or that corrections are not harmful, or if they can’t train your dog to do what you want, look for a trainer that knows Howe. Sincerely, Jerry Howe, Wits’ End Dog Training http://www.doggydoright.com Nature, to be mastered, must be obeyed.                       -Francis Bacon- There are terrible people who, instead of solving a problem, bungle it and make it more difficult for all who come after.  Who ever can’t hit the nail on the head should, please, not hit at all.                      -Nietzsche- The abilities to think, rationalize and solve problems are learned qualities. The Wits’ End Dog Training Method challenges the learning centers in the dogs brain. These centers, once challenged, develop and continue to grow exponentially, to make him smarter. The Wits’ End Dog Training method capitalizes on praising split seconds of canine thought, strategy, and timing, not mindless hours of forced repetition, constant corrections, and scolding.                   -Jerry Howe-

Response:

> Or, perhaps she OUGHT to consider

                                  http://www.i1.net/~dogman/jerry.html Before you buy.

Response:

Paul B. Help! was:Re: Please do NOT reply to Jerry Howe!!!! = By The Way, What Part Of koehler Do You Like Best? I like The Part Where We Get ToTie The Dog Next To A Housetraining Mistake, And BEAT HIM Every Twenty Minutes For The Same Mistake.

Question:

[...] > >> No thanks, Howe.  I’d like to hear from Paul himself, if you don’t > >> mind. >I’ve been telling you for almost two years,

Yeah, we know that, that’s why we want to hear from Paul. You refuse to discuss anything, so maybe Paul will. > >> You don’t mind, do you? >Paul’s his own boss.

Well, then we’ll see what he has to say, eh? > >> I just want to learn more about it >You’ve been telling me all about it for almost two years.

No, I’ve been calling you a shyster, and a phony, and an asshole, etc., because you refuse to discuss anything. Maybe Paul will.  Maybe he won’t. > and Paul said he’s been successful with it, >As have many other posters here who’ve tried my advice,

Most of those other "posters" were your own aliases, Howe, I might be wrong about Paul, too, but I think he might actually be neutral on this. Let’s see, eh? > > > and I’m sure he wants to help dog owners out there solve > >> their shit eating problems, > > > so if Paul cares about dogs and helping people, >As you have been for almost two years LYING to them?

I don’t tell lies, Howe, you have the patent on that behavior here. In fact, you’re a pathological liar. I want to hear what Paul has to say. Call it "research." >That’s why Paul shouldn’t waste his time on you.

If Paul cares about dogs, and dog owners, he’ll discuss this with me rationally and in a civil manner. If he doesn’t, well, then he’ll probably come on like you always do. > he’ll gladly share his experience with us. >He already has, you ignorant lout.

Yep, now we’d like to hear more. And we’d like to DISCUSS it with someone. That’s okay with you, isn’t it? > >> STEP BY STEP. >You haven’t done anything but complain,

Yep, because you won’t DISCUSS anything with anyone. Maybe Paul will, eh? > >> I mean, why shouldn’t he? >Because your’e gonna wast his effort with your usual RAGTIME.

Well, there’s only one way to find out, eh? I’ll be civil.  And I’ll be rational.   Hopefully he’ll be the same. We’ll see, eh? ;>) [...] > >Paul shouldn’t give you the right time of day, he’s a decent person, > >and you are not worthy of his effort or consideration. > [...] > No, Howe, I’d like to hear Paul say that. >Paul shouldn’t even respond to you. You’re only interested in >exhausting him.

Nope, I’m interested in having an adult conversation with him, a concept that totally alien to people like you. >you and your buddies are going to give him the bums >rush, and try to get him to give up and leave here

Poppycock.  I want him to *stay* here, if he can DISCUSS things in a civil and rational manner. If he can’t…well, that’s another matter altogether. > Maybe Paul’s capable of putting aside any differences >Differences? I didn’t notice that Paul had any DIFFERENCES with ANYONE >here.

We’re talking here about differences in *training* philosophies, little man. > for the sake of dogs and dog owners everywhere, you’re certainly not. > You know what, Howe? >Yeah. I know EXACTLY what. You’re HISTORY here. Eh?

You’ve been saying that for what?  Two years? Guess what?  I’m still here. Two more years? I’ll still be here. > If I didn’t know any better, I’d think that there must be something >that you don’t want Paul to say here. >You think Paul is going to say or not say anything based on MY say so?

I don’t know. Let’s see, eh? >Who the hell do you think I am,

I think you’re a petty two-bit phony, and a shyster, to boot. >That’s why I don’t post anonymously, cause I’d MAKE A >MISTAKE LIKE YOU DID, and blow my cover, Joyce.

You think Joyce is me, eh? HAHA! >What do you suppose Tommy would say if I got him on the phone and told >him some vulgar, dog abuing, lying, anonymous coward, was using Tom >Sorenson on YOUR computer???

I don’t know, Howe.  Why don’t you call him and find out? :>) > Anyway, lets see what Paul has to say for himself, okay? >Anyway, I’ve posted the STEP BY STEP directions in between the arrows >for you YESTERDAY.

No, you didn’t, that’s why I asked Paul to do it. You had your chance, Howe. Now it’s Paul’s, if he wants it. > If he’s a man, he’ll want to do his own talking. >With YOU? No decent human being would have a conversation with you once >they’re aware of what you REALLY ARE.

Let’s have Paul make that decision for himself, okay? ;>) PS:  Sleep tight, Jer. — Dogman http://www.i1.net/~dogman Mason Morgan Matheson 1536 Kingshighway Rd. St. Charles, MO Visitors welcome.

Response:

Hello lyingdogDUMMY, >> >> No thanks, Howe.  I’d like to hear from Paul himself, if you don’t >> >> mind. >I’ve been telling you for almost two years, > Yeah, we know that, that’s why we want to hear from Paul.

Paul’s been telling ya since he’s been posting here. You don’t want to listen. You miss the dog training part, because you don’t RECOGNIZE it, because there’s no part where we get to HURT DOGS. > You refuse to discuss anything, so maybe Paul will.

You are INCAPABLE of discussing training. All you understand is fear, force, and intimidaton, confrontation, BEATING, CHOKING, SHOCKING, and HANGING. That’s why we don’t have any TRAINING to talk about. All you are interested in, is proving sound distraction is punishment and that it hurts dogs more than your standard jerking, choking, and HANGING. >> >> You don’t mind, do you? >Paul’s his own boss. > Well, then we’ll see what he has to say, eh?

I don’t think he’ll ENTERTAIN you. That’s what I’d tell him, your not deserving of his effort. >> >> I just want to learn more about it >You’ve been telling me all about it for almost two years. > No, I’ve been calling you a shyster, and a phony, and an asshole, > etc., because you refuse to discuss anything.

No, you say that because you are an anonymous, lying, dog abusing coward, and so are most of your pals here. > Maybe Paul will.  Maybe he won’t.

It’s not my business. >> and Paul said he’s been successful with it, >As have many other posters here who’ve tried my advice, > Most of those other "posters" were your own aliases, Howe,

Psst! Tommy? Psst! Joey? You are the one using false names all over the place, since you GOT CAUGHT forgetting to change you identity. Why do you post under the names Tom and Joey?  Don’t sound like anything you should be PROUD of, is it? > I might be wrong about Paul, too, but I think he might actually be > neutral on this.

I wonder if Tom Soronsen is going to be NEUTRAL when I tell him there’s a vulgar, lying, dog abuser passing himself off as the well known Tommy? I’ll bet he’s going to track you down, and sue your for everything you got, including your outhouse. > Let’s see, eh?

I’ll be in touch. I like to speak with kennel owners about the services their kennels offer, in case I’d like to refer someone to them. >> > > and I’m sure he wants to help dog owners out there solve >> >> their shit eating problems, >> > > so if Paul cares about dogs and helping people, >As you have been for almost two years LYING to them? > I don’t tell lies, Howe, you have the patent on that behavior here.

You are a PROVEN LIAR and DOG ABUSER. You forgot to change your identities, and have been caught using TS and JF aliases. Three people posting from your computer these days??? And don’t let’s forget your murderous aids scam. > In fact, you’re a pathological liar.

In fact, my word is EXPERT TESTIMONY in Superior Court for Crimnal Justice. > I want to hear what Paul has to say.

He’d be nuts to bother wasting is time with you. > Call it "research."

Call it a waste of time. YOU HURT DOGS. You don’t have the intelligence to outwit a puppy dog. Or you wouldn’t hurt them. And, you’re a COWARD, otherwise you wouldn’t HANG dogs who FRIGHTEN you. >That’s why Paul shouldn’t waste his time on you. > If Paul cares about dogs, and dog owners, he’ll discuss this with me > rationally and in a civil manner.

Like you? You care enough to jerk and choke and shock and intimidate and HANG them for their own benefit, of course. > If he doesn’t, well, then he’ll probably come on like you always do.

He won’t give you the right time of day. Discuss it with dermer, he’s the professor. >> he’ll gladly share his experience with us. >He already has, you ignorant lout. > Yep, now we’d like to hear more.

You mean like HOWE many times a day he picks up his yard? > And we’d like to DISCUSS it with someone.

Discuss it with the BIOSOUND Scientific Elves. They’re in the business, in a sense. > That’s okay with you, isn’t it?

Take off your shoes… >> >> STEP BY STEP.

Have a seat. >You haven’t done anything but complain, > Yep, because you won’t DISCUSS anything with anyone.

My, you ARE sensitive, aren’t you? > Maybe Paul will, eh?

I’d say it’s rather DOUBTFUL. Paul’s not STUPID. >> >> I mean, why shouldn’t he? >Because your’e gonna wast his effort with your usual RAGTIME. > Well, there’s only one way to find out, eh?

I’m not interested in FINDING OUT. We ALREADY found out. We found you you don’t know POO about dog training without HURTING them. You’ve ADMITTED HERE. And you’re STILL claiming that I don’t know dog training. Paul’s not the only persone here who’s learned to solve ALL their dog behavior problems from the Wits’ End Dog Training Method manual. Remember the "concerns" page??? > I’ll be civil.  And I’ll be rational.

HA! I don’t care if you dress up in pink lace with black maribou trim, fur panties and a feather boa, you ain’t gonna impress ANYBODY here no more. > Hopefully he’ll be the same. > We’ll see, eh?

Eh? You’ve been EXPOSED, IDENTIFIED, and DISCREDITED, and you’re HISTORY here, and so are you lying, dog abusing, Gang Of Thugs. I’m going to hound you bums to the Gates of HELL, and leave a Wits’ End Trained Dog there to keep you in. >> >Paul shouldn’t give you the right time of day, he’s a decent person, >> >and you are not worthy of his effort or consideration. >> No, Howe, I’d like to hear Paul say that. >Paul shouldn’t even respond to you. You’re only interested in >exhausting him. > Nope, I’m interested in having an adult conversation with him, a > concept that totally alien to people like you.

You CHOKE, BEAT, and HANG dogs. DECENT PEOPLE SHOULDN’T TALK TO YOU. >you and your buddies are going to give him the bums >rush, and try to get him to give up and leave here > Poppycock.  I want him to *stay* here, if he can DISCUSS things in a > civil and rational manner.

Bye! You’re HISTORY here. > If he can’t…well, that’s another matter altogether.

He is not my concern. YOU are. YOU and YOUR PALS. You’re still here LYING and teaching people to ABUSE dogs. >> Maybe Paul’s capable of putting aside any differences >Differences? I didn’t notice that Paul had any DIFFERENCES with ANYONE >here. > We’re talking here about differences in *training* philosophies, > little man.

You are worried about SIZE. You like to talk about vulgar jail house sex, and the size of your wee wee. >> for the sake of dogs and dog owners everywhere, you’re certainly

not. >> You know what, Howe? >Yeah. I know EXACTLY what. You’re HISTORY here. Eh? > You’ve been saying that for what?  Two years? > Guess what?  I’m still here.

That’s because your pals all LIE to cover up for each other. People are getting wise to you’s and you won’t be able to continue facing ridicule every day. > Two more years?

If need be. I’m not layiing off you and your PALS who LIKE to HURT dogs. Try to find a list where you can all tell dog hanging stories and enjoy hurting dogs to your heart’s content. > I’ll still be here.

Not after Tom and I have a little CHAT. In fact, I think that could lead to some legal action. No, lyingdogDUMMY. You won’t be here much longer, one way or the other. Tom will see to that, I’m SURE. He’s got excellent references here, lyinglynn and lyingfrosty dahl speak highly of him. He’d not be please KNOWING you post under his name. >> If I didn’t know any better, I’d think that there must be something >that you don’t want Paul to say here. >You think Paul is going to say or not say anything based on MY say

so? > I don’t know.

You don’t know nuthin. > Let’s see, eh?

Eh? Huh? Huh? Eh? Eh? >Who the hell do you think I am, > I think you’re a petty two-bit phony, and a shyster, to boot.

You are the anonymous, dog abusing, forger. It’s PROVEN FACT. >That’s why I don’t post anonymously, cause I’d MAKE A >MISTAKE LIKE YOU DID, and blow my cover, Joyce. > You think Joyce is me, eh?

Tom S. Joey F. > HAHA!

That’s ENOUGH. Ha, ha, ha. I’ve got the information from your headers. IT”S ARCHIVED. You can’t GET OUT of that one. You screwed up, and GOT CAUGHT. Now, Tom is going to be accused of being a vulgar, lying, dog abuser. He AIN’T GONNA LIKE IT. I GUARANTEE you, he ain’t gonna like it. Because if YOU are TOM, that means YOU are not anonymous anymore, and YOU could be held LIABLE as TOM. See?  And if your NOT Tom, then Tom is going to choke the bejesus out of you in court for DISGRACING HIS NAME. EITHER WAY, IT DON’T LOOK GOOD FOR our lyingdogDUMMY. Life does have some surprise benifits. I might not mind owning a nice kennel in MO. Does it get cold there? >What do you suppose Tommy would say if I got him on the phone and told >him some vulgar, dog abuing, lying, anonymous coward, was using Tom >Sorenson on YOUR computer??? > I don’t know, Howe.  Why don’t you call him and find out?

I expect I will. >> Anyway, lets see what Paul has to say for himself, okay? >Anyway, I’ve posted the STEP BY STEP directions in between the arrows >for you YESTERDAY. > No, you didn’t, that’s why I asked Paul to do it.

Yes I did. Three days ago now… > You had your chance, Howe.

Chance? Nothing is left to CHANCE. > Now it’s Paul’s, if he wants it.

I’m sure he can hardly wait for an audience with the lying, dog choker…. Ha, ha, ha, ha, ha. >> If he’s a man, he’ll want to do his own talking.

Yes, your wee wee IS important to you, it’s all you’ve got. >With YOU? No decent human being would have a conversation with you once >they’re aware of what you REALLY ARE. > Let’s have Paul make that decision for himself, okay?

Maybe Paul is ME? Hmm? Could be. You thought Marilyn was me, until you successfully tracked her down to somewhere in … read more »

Response:

HOWE to stop misinterpreting Jerry

Question:

> > And you know that how?  Because a man who thinks deliberately spiking > a dog to a temperature of 106, or perimeter training a Sibe for 25 > acres beside a freeway, or using sound distraction for a dog with an > intestinal blockage, or cropping ears at 2 days old, or lots of other > examples – is okay told you so?  You would benefit from a good class > in critical thinking. >   I don’t know anything about him doing him doing that.

    And, of course, you’d NEVER ask us for the posts in which he claims to do such things, eh? Yup, just cover your ears, and start screaming.     But it still won’t drown out the fact that howdy doody HAS told us he dislikes dogs, will never touch them because he dislikes them, spikes their temps to a dangerous level, (if not killing the dog then causing permanent brain damage), and all the other posts he’s made admitting all of this.     They do say ignorance is bliss, you must be VERY VERY happy. <G> MaryBeth

Response:

> Hmmmm.  I haven’t ever seen your name on any of the clicker or > positive training lists.  See a lot of the other folks that frequent > this newsgroup there, though.  Don’t make assumptions.  You’re very > likely to be wrong.

   OK so my name isn’t on any training list .. does this mean I can’t have an opinion? and I’m not making assumptions. > And you know that how?  Because a man who thinks deliberately spiking > a dog to a temperature of 106, or perimeter training a Sibe for 25 > acres beside a freeway, or using sound distraction for a dog with an > intestinal blockage, or cropping ears at 2 days old, or lots of other > examples – is okay told you so?  You would benefit from a good class > in critical thinking.

  I don’t know anything about him doing him doing that.   And what makes you think HE told me anything?   I am capable of making my own mind up about what is fair or not.  I have read Koehler training manuals for myself and think they are disgusting, anyone who treats an animal in that manner doesn’t deserve one.  I don’t want to get into an argument with anyone, all I was saying is from what I have seen from Jerrys book he does have some good methods of training.    If they are available elsewhere, then doesn’t that suggest that ‘he’s not alone in his thinking’  I have used sound distraction with my dog since he was 3 months old, and I have never needed to resort to shouting or hitting him to get him to do as I ask.   He’s now just turned one and no-end of people comment on how well behaved he is.  > Before you buy.

Response:

Gee. What a surprise. Dumbass Jerry has no proof. Go figure.

Response:

> Its good to see that there’s someone on this forum for a change who > actually supports non abusive methods of training….

Hmmmm.  I haven’t ever seen your name on any of the clicker or positive training lists.  See a lot of the other folks that frequent this newsgroup there, though.  Don’t make assumptions.  You’re very likely to be wrong.  Jerry gets abuse > all the time because the rest of the ‘thugs’ on here simply can’t > understand that you don’t need to use force or hurt a dog to ‘train’ > it.

And you know that how?  Because a man who thinks deliberately spiking a dog to a temperature of 106, or perimeter training a Sibe for 25 acres beside a freeway, or using sound distraction for a dog with an intestinal blockage, or cropping ears at 2 days old, or lots of other examples – is okay told you so?  You would benefit from a good class in critical thinking. Lynn K.

Response:

> But I think his methods are an > interesting alternative.

But the point is that few of his methods are really alternative. Many are just badly written derivatives of long-established methods described by others.  Some are so badly written as to be nonsensical. There is no trainer alive that doesn’t use sound distractions, for example.  And his Family Pack Exercise is identical to David Kline’s "walking thing".  And so on. None of that has a damned thing to do with the ridiculous false accusations he makes about other people, of course. Lynn K.

Response:

WOW! Now that was useful!!! Thanks!

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> REPEAT, VARYING HOW HARD YOU HIT THE DOG.

Response:

> You HURT DOGS, because it remindes you of your Pa making your brothers > drag your screaming, lying, dirty, snivilling butt over to him and hold > you down over his knee while he gave you the beatin you deserved for > being a littls sleaze. HURTING DOGS makes you FEEL GOOD, just like you > was in the comfort and safety of your Pa’s loving lap.

He hurts dogs? Wow, that is terrible. Do you have documented proof of that? That is a pretty big accusation and if someone like you would make that accusation you would have to have proof. Of course you have proof, don’t you? Can I see it? If you say "You HURT DOGS" that means you have proof. Please share that proof with the rest of us.

Response:

Hello lyingdogDUMMY,

>Tgala, >Its good to see that there’s someone on this forum for a change who >actually supports non abusive methods of training…. Jerry gets abuse >all the time because the rest of the ‘thugs’ on here simply can’t >understand that you don’t need to use force or hurt a dog to ‘train’ >it. > [...] > Gosh folks…isn’t it great fun watching the same little TROLL reach > out for himself?

You are an anonymous poster. You are TERRIFIED someone will find out your true identity… You HANG DOGS BECAUSE YOU FEAR THEM. You HURT DOGS, because it remindes you of your Pa making your brothers drag your screaming, lying, dirty, snivilling butt over to him and hold you down over his knee while he gave you the beatin you deserved for being a littls sleaze. HURTING DOGS makes you FEEL GOOD, just like you was in the comfort and safety of your Pa’s loving lap. > It’s like watching Chris Farley look in a mirror and spank his own > monkey!

Everyone who doesn’t approve HURT dogs is ME? That’s what you say when someone speaks the truth around here. I think you’re a little paranoid. And what’s with the twenty name changes? Bothered because someone posted your real identity??? It wasn’t me. YOU’RE the net stalker. > Right before he returns to his van…down by the river…

Don’t worry. I won’t be stealing the van you broke into to sleep it off in. > BWAHAHAHA!

I’m killing you bums, and all you can say is bwahahaha??? HA! > Dogman > http://www.i1.net/~dogman > Buster "Dogman" Bocherelli > Running D Ranch > New Melle, MO > Visitors always welcome.

Visitors welcome? You’re scared sitless someones going to get even with you for telling them to lay off their aids treatment… That’s why you stopped posting here a few months ago. I knocked you off with that little aids scam you’ve got going to KILL them queeers, telling them aids is not contaigious and they don’t have to worry about spreading it… Nice, huh? Eh? Huh? Huh? You can get all the information you need to properly handle and train your dog using non force, non confrontational, scientific and psychological behavior modification and conditioning techniques, from the Wits’ End Dog Training Method manual available for free at http://www.doggydoright.com "Thus we should beware of clinging to vulgar opinions, and judge things by reason’s way, not by popular say." Montaigne "Violence is the last refuge of the incompetent." Salvor Hardin "If you cannot convince them, confuse them." H.S. Truman. DRAINING THE SWAMP, AND RELOCATING THE GATORS… j;~) "CUSTOM WILL RECONCILE PEOPLE TO ANY ATROCITY." G.B. Shaw. "I know that most men, including those at ease with problems of the greatest complexity, can seldom accept even the simplest and most obvious truth if it would oblige them to admit the falsity of conclusions which they have delighted in explaining to colleagues, proudly taught to others, and which they have woven, thread by thread, into the fabric of their lives."                                              Leo Tolstoy Is it any wonder that the following sig file has generated more complaints to my personal email than any other controversial post I have made to date, bar none?:                                             caveat If you have to do things to your dog to train him, that you would rather not have to do, then you shouldn’t be doing them. If you have a dog trainer that tells you to jerk your dog around, choke him, pinch his ears, or twist his toes, shock, shake, slap, scold, hit, or punish him in any manner, that corrections are appropriate, that the dog won’t think of you as the punisher, or that corrections are not harmful, or if they can’t train your dog to do what you want, look for a trainer that knows Howe. Sincerely, Jerry Howe, Wits’ End Dog Training http://www.doggydoright.com Nature, to be mastered, must be obeyed.                       -Francis Bacon- There are terrible people who, instead of solving a problem, bungle it and make it more difficult for all who come after.  Who ever can’t hit the nail on the head should, please, not hit at all.                      -Nietzsche- The abilities to think, rationalize and solve problems are learned qualities. The Wits’ End Dog Training Method challenges the learning centers in the dogs brain. These centers, once challenged, develop and continue to grow exponentially, to make him smarter. The Wits’ End Dog Training method capitalizes on praising split seconds of canine thought, strategy, and timing, not mindless hours of forced repetition, constant corrections, and scolding.                   -Jerry Howe-

Response:

REPEAT, VARYING HOW HARD YOU HIT THE DOG.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > [...] >Perhaps you are close to him, and can suggest this to him? > [...] > Christy, my money says that "Tgala" here is so close to Jerry "The > Phony" Howe that she can just reach over and spank his monkey for him. > :>) > — > Dogman > http://www.i1.net/~dogman > Homer "Dogman" Flaskamper > General Delivery > Defiance, MO > Visitors always welcome.

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->>We’ve had more than eight, competent, full time, experienced, >>professional dog trainers, who do not waste their time posting to >>you mooreons, that are all using various, non violent techniques, who >>all understand and  agree with the information I teach… Marilyn >>Rammell, Canis55, Master_222, Claudette from England, >>Aspiring Trainer, Ray the Vet. Tech. from NewHamshire, Parker, >>Ray the R.S.P.C.A. guy from U.K., DougdogManager, >>Ruth Hoffman, > Gee, a name I have heard of.  I have real trouble believing she would > have anything to do with you. > — > Ruth Mays > Beautiful Downtown Cinnaminson > It’s important to keep an open mind, > But not so open that your brains fall out.

Hello ruhie, That’s what she thought too. I’ll copy a couple of posts from her below. You haven’t forgotten Robert Crim, have you? Just a friendly reminder… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > OK, guys, I think we’ve given Jerry enough rope. Let’s > ignore him. He has not answered a single one of our > questions, and he continues to attack anyone who doesn’t use > his method, calling them nasty names. >    He never responded to the post in which I answered his > challenge to use his manual to prove him wrong – instead he > answered someone else’s response to my post, and with the > usual name calling. > Let’s stop treating him like a fellow dog trainer, and begin > treating him like the troll he shows himself to be – by > ignoring him. > I’m not talking killfiles. I’ll keep reading his posts, but > until he demonstrates the possession of a clue, I will not > respond. > R > Ruth Hoffman > alowandogs(at)bewellnet(dot)com

Hello, Ruth, As I was considering your request, I noticed that you posted this message, saying I would not respond to you. Let’s take a look at that for a moment? Let’s say that you asked your dog to do something. Let’s say he heard you. Let’s say he’s thinking of it. And you look, and say: "he’s being stubborn, he knows the command, I’ll correct him." Let’s say the response I’m doing right now is distracting me from the prior request that I was thinking out. Right now, I’m not working out the details of that prior request, because in effect, you’ve distracted me, and now I’m thinking about the correction. The same thing happens with our dogs when we train them. You give a command, the dog thinks. Instead of praising him the instant he hears and thinks of the command, and encourage him to figure it out, here you go, correcting his nonresponsiveness…breaking his thoughts, and confounding your efforts to train him. The outcome of repeating the same action a couple of times, will block the dog from performing the command in the future. Now, if I get criticized for performing my work too slowly, it doesn’t matter, I am the boss. But am I willing to perform for someone who criticizes me, or do I move on to someone who will offer encouragement despite my faults? If I have a customer that needs my service, I do everything possible to assist them as quickly as possible. Sometimes it takes longer to do certain things. If my customer gives me an argument, or pushes me too hard, I just refund his purchase and move on. I don’t work for anyone who doesn’t appreciate my effort, slovenly as it may be. Dogs are allot like me. They don’t like to be pushed. They like to be encouraged, and work all the harder for it. Now, it seems that I had something that I meant to be doing, but I can’t remember exactly what it was. I think I was writing a piece about exercising patience when training your dog… Sincerely, Jerry Howe Wits’ End Dog Training >O.K., Bimbo. Ask some training questions.

Well, I’ll step in here. Last chance, Jerry. By the way, I’d bet my pension that you won’t answer this. Here are some training questions. An answer consisting of telling them to buy your black box is not acceptable, unless it also contains the theory and strategy of its use. 1.  What do you do with, or tell, a student who is too much of a klutz to use a shake can as outlined in your manual? 2. How do you help the 90 pound old lady with the 120 pound, out of control dog? 3. How do you help a student with a severely shy, noise-sensitive dog? 4. What do you do for the dog of a student and/or family that can’t hear what you tell them? (i.e. your instructions go in one ear and out the other) 5. How do you handle aggression a. from dog to humans b. from dog to you (the instructor) c. dog to dog d. from fear (i.e. fear-biting) 5. How do you react (as if we didn’t know) when a student uses something other that what you recommend, and it works, and the dog is happy? Shoot, Jerry, I’d even bet my right arm that you won’t answer. Ruth H, who makes no money from training, but has answered all the above questions as they came up in class. Hello, Ruth,

Let’s get this straight: I don’t gratuitously give anything away, insults included. It’s earned. Whatever I give has a catch to it. You either have to learn something, or do something to benefit yourself from my advice. I don’t come cheap. >O.K., Bimbo. Ask some training questions.

I wasn’t referring to you as Bimbo, but it’s appropriate, so it’ll stick. > Well, I’ll step in here. Last chance, Jerry. By the way, I’d > bet my pension that you won’t answer this.

I wouldn’t want to see you give up a pension. I don’t plan or retiring, so I don’t think in terms of featherbedding. However, I would encourage you to retire early from dog training. > Here are some training questions. > An answer consisting of telling them to buy your black box > is not acceptable, unless it also contains the theory and > strategy of its use.

In case you hadn’t noticed, I don’t mention Doggy Do Right unless someone else brings it up. It cures all kinds of dog behavior problems. It’s guaranteed, 100% money back if ever not satisfied. Two years free warranty repair/replacement, and BIOSOUND Scientific pays return shipping, just because that’s the way I am. The way Doggy Do Right works is based on a variety of scientific principles, state conditioned learning being just one aspect of it. That may give you some food for thought. > 1.  What do you do with, or tell, a student who is too much > of a klutz to use a shake can as outlined in your manual?

Never had anyone that couldn’t manage to do that. I usually introduce it to them by operating the sounds as they issue the commands. I have other techniques as well. Two people can both work together creating the sound from opposite directions on cue from one or the other handler. Then, there’s always the toll free phone line to Wits’ End Dog Training that invited students may speak with me to get their difficulties addressed. For free, did I mention that? But I won’t give anyone the right time of day if the manual hasn’t been read. That’s why I’m reluctantly doing this now, It’s obvious you didn’t give the text a thorough read. I’m wasting an hour of my time for you. Even I do not always work the system correctly, there’s plenty of room for error, and we all make mistakes. When we make and error, as it is explained in the manual, we just continue as though we intended to do that error, or we change the command, as we may ordinarily change our mind. Dogs will flex with you, if you keep the information flowing, instead of looking to see if you got the message across. You work too slowly with your dogs, and miss the moment he is assimilating what you are showing him. > 2. How do you help the 90 pound old lady with the 120 pound, > out of control dog?

That is explained in the manual. Maybe you need glasses. The manual repeatedly states exactly howe the lead must be handled, howe you use your arms and feet. I’m very strict about that. It is emphasized everywhere in the text. The way you hold the lead causes the dog to be in or out of control. Size does not matter. You couldn’t have really read the text. That was covered in the hot and cold exercise. Everything, from howe you grasp the lead, to howe to position your feet so as to use physics instead of muscle. The only muscle we need is in the head. But to be fair, and answer your question directly, if we did have a little old lady that wanted me to protection train her Great Dane or standard Poodle or Scottie, I’d attach the dog to a length of chain with a spring in it. The handler is stationed six feet from the far end of the tie out. When the dog starts lunging, the tie out will control the full impact of the dog until the handler develops the ability to control the dog without force. That’s what I specialize in, Ruthie,: giant breed dogs with aggression problems. I never use force, fear, confrontation, leash corrections, choke collars, scolding, food bribes, you know, all the things you have to rely on. I said, all the things you have to rely on are useless with big, dangerous animals. > 3. How do you help a student with a severely shy, > noise-sensitive dog?

Once again, you didn’t have your glasses on. That too, is addressed in the manual. The manual is quite clear that any time sound is used, every dog in the environment must have prolonged, non physical praise and direct eye contact. That will insure the dog does not react fearfully. Timing has a great deal to do with it. That’s why you see dogs get shy from using shake cans. The people do not praise quickly enough, long enough, or sincerely enough to take the dogs mind off of the sound. That is why the sound must be brief. We want to distract the dog from the though of the sound, to make him think of the behavior it was associated with. Do you want me to repeat that? … read more »

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->I don’t think the majority of browsers on this list realise that Jerry’s posts >about using force on dogs are quotes done tongue in cheek from Koehler.  If you >look at the training manual, he seems to know what he is talking about. >He advocates non-abusive techniques that teach the dog without using food or >violence.  I think he understands dogs.  Period. >Perhaps his language is a bit abrupt.  But I think his methods are an >interesting alternative. > A thread for the kill file

Hello rauni, A man called me one day saying his dogs needed to be trained right away NOT to bark when he’s at work, because the neighbor was going to kill his dogs for him. It took me three hours to train them. I trained the family to the exercises in the Wits’ End Dog Training Method manual in one hour, and worked with the dogs for two hours to condition them using sound distraction and praise techniques. The family was instructed to follow through with the exercises in the manual for ten to fifteen minutes for the each of the next three days, and weekly thereafter. END OF PROBLEM. But that was before Doggy Do Right (and Kitty Will Too). Today, I wouldn’t even have to get off my butt. Just flip the switch, and the dogs will be quiet. Your buddy koehler says: "If there has been a long history of barking and whining, it sometimes requires a lot of work to make a dog be quiet when you’re not around, so give the above method an honest try before you presume your dog requires a more severe correction." Of course, a STRONGER CORRECTION would HAVE to be HANGING. He’s just instructed us to wail the sit out of the dog. There IS no more severe correction than jerking him around and beating him. Except HANGING. So, there’s goes the bogus defense you bums use that you only hang dogs to protect yourselves from them… Which co-incidentally PROVES that you bums HURT dogs ONLY BECAUSE you are AFRAID of them. The dog KNOWS he should be quiet? Never looked at it that way before. He could be right, by golly. The G.-D. dog KNOWS he ain’t supposed to bark… SO: "Next, equip yourself with a man’s leather belt or a strap heavy enough to give your particular dog a good tanning. Yup-we’re going to strike him. Real hard.  Remember, you’re dealing with a dog who knows he should be quiet and neighbors who have legal rights to see that he does." Well, why do you suppose that? I don’t know that. I expect dogs to bark, that’s what dogs do. Training them NOT to bark is what I do, and IT AIN’T NO MYSTERY. Dogs bark because they are DOGS. We’re supposed to be HUMAN, and therefore capable of OUTWITTING the dog. Perhaps you’d like to share with us HOWE YOU feel about: Koehler on correcting the housebreaking backslider: "If the punishment is not severe enough, some of these "backsliders" will think they’re winning and will continue to mess in the house. An indelible impression can sometimes be made by giving the dog a hard spanking of long duration, then leaving him tied by the mess he’s made so you can come back at twenty minute intervals and punish him again for the same thing. (Dogs are REALLY stupid. J.H.) In most cases, the dog that deliberately does this disagreeable thing cannot be made reliable by the light spanking that some owners seem to think is adequate punishment. It will be better for your dog, as well as the house, if you really pour it on him." BARKING: "Thunder through the door or gate, snatch up the belt that you’ve conveniently placed, and descend on him. He’ll have no chance to dodge if you  grab the line and reel him in until his front feet are raised off the floor or, if he’s a big dog, until you’ve snubbed him up with a hitch on something. (A ceiling hook, rafter, door, tree limb, or over your shoulder, if you know HOWE. j.h.) While he’s held in close, lay the strap vigorously against his thighs. Keep pouring it on him until he thinks it’s the bitter end. A real whaling now may cut down somewhat on the number of repeat performances that will be necessary. When you’re finished and the dog is convinced that he is, put him on a long down to think things over while you catch your breath. After fifteen or twenty minutes, release him from the stay and leave the area again. You might have a long wait on that comfortable porch before your dog starts broadcasting again. When he does, let your long range bellow tie the consequent correction to his first sound and repeat the spanking, if anything emphasizing it a bit more. After a half dozen corrections, "the reason and the correction" will be tied in close enough association so that you can move in on him without the preliminary bellowing of "out." From then on, it’s just a case of laying for the dog and supplying enough bad consequences of his noise so he’ll no longer feel like gambling. Our friend lyingfrosty dahl only likes to PUNISH dogs to MOTIVATE them: > Nope. That "beating dogs with sticks" things is > something you twisted out of context, because you > are full of bizarro manure.

LIAR. I’ll just copy a direct quote or two or three or four or five or six… HOWE many direct quotes would you like??? Gotta LOVE koehler. dahl makes koheler look like St. Francis. Amy lyingfrosty dahl LIES with a straight face and says: "I don’t beat dogs, twist ears, or pinch toes. For the benefit of anyone who is in doubt, and who chooses not to read the article (SHE’D REALLY LIKE IT IF YOU DON’T READ IT!), there is NO mention in it of "twisting ears (INDEED, SHE PINCHES THEM WITH SPIKES). I would never slap a dog (SHE TEACHES PEOPLE TO BEAT DOGS WITH STICKS TO MOTIVATE THEM). I would never advise anyone to slap a dog (SHE’S A PROVEN LIAR AND DOG ABUSER, do you expect her to ADMIT THE TRUTH???). I do not believe there is a single circumstance, ever, where slapping a dog is anything but destructive." RIGHT. She PINCHES, not twists… and chin cuff doesn’t mean hit, according to lyinglynn and avrama…. amy lyingfrosty dahl continues: "Get a stick 30- or 40-inches long. You can have a helper wield the stick, or do it yourself. Tougher, less tractable dogs may require you to progress to striking them more sharply. REPEAT, VARYING HOW HARD YOU HIT THE DOG. Now you are ready to progress to what most people think of as force-fetching: the ear pinch. Make the dog’s need to stop the pinching so urgent that resisting your will fades in importance. but will squeal, thrash around, and direct their efforts to escaping the ear pinch even get a studded collar and pinch the ear against that if the dog still does not open its mouth, get out the shotshell. Try pinching the ear between the metal casing and the collar, even the buckle on the collar. Persist! Eventually, the dog will give in" With your hand on the collar and ear, say, ‘fetch.’ Immediately tap the dog on the hindquarters with the stick. Repeat "fetch" and pinch the ear all the way to the dummy. You can press the dog’s ear with a shotshell instead of your thumb; Say "fetch" while pressing the dummy against its lips and pinching its ear.

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> First of all, it’s HOW not HOWE. There is something really fishy about this > post. > If you truly enjoy spiking a dog’s temperature to 106, then by all means use > Jerry’s advice. While that can be fatal to a dog, it’s your call. And while > you are at it, buy his crazy DDR device. After all, it cures EVERYTHING like > magic. > If you trust people like this, then well…you have a problem. > I don’t think the majority of browsers on this list realise that Jerry’s > posts > about using force on dogs are quotes done tongue in cheek from Koehler. > If you > look at the training manual, he seems to know what he is talking about. > He advocates non-abusive techniques that teach the dog without using food > or > violence.  I think he understands dogs.  Period. > Perhaps his language is a bit abrupt.  But I think his methods are an > interesting alternative.

Hell "missy." You’re an anoymous poster. You’re probably lyingdogDUMMY. lyinlynn says: "I LOVE KOEHLER," and in the next breath denies being a ‘koehler trainer.’ Is that because she ALSO shocks dogs, and koehler never had a shock collar? Koehler on correcting the housebreaking backslider: "If the punishment is not severe enough, some of these "backsliders" will think they’re winning and will continue to mess in the house. An indelible impression can sometimes be made by giving the dog a hard spanking of long duration, then leaving him tied by the mess he’s made so you can come back at twenty minute intervals and punish him again for the same thing. (Dogs are REALLY stupid. J.H.) In most cases, the dog that deliberately does this disagreeable thing cannot be made reliable by the light spanking that some owners seem to think is adequate punishment. It will be better for your dog, as well as the house, if you really pour it on him." Our professor of behavior Wisc. U., lyingdoc dermer endorses koehler. (He said: "I punish dog’s behavior, NOT the dog." You gonna believe THAT CRAP, PEOPLE???) ron likes to use the heavy belt on his dogs "Read koehler for content" Mark Shaw, Sadist, rpdb regular. "I LOVE KOHELER" lyinglynn, pathological liar, noted dog abuser. "There’s much wisdom in koehler," deana pace. (Her dogs run away from home.) "Read koehler," lyingdogDUMMY. (koehler is all he understands.) "Read koehler, cindymorons k-9 web faq’s page," ludwig smith. "I’m not a koehler trainer," cindymoron, lyinglynn, lyingfrosty dahl. But they spout koehler’s methods. They don’t consider themselves koehler trainers because they shock, twist and pinch ears and toes, and BEAT DOGS WITH STICKS to MOTIVATE them. lyinglynn writes: > For barking in the crate – leave the leash on and > pass it through the crate door.  Attach a line to it. > When he barks, use the line for a correction. > Nope. That "beating dogs with sticks" things is > something you twisted out of context, because you > are full of bizarro manure.

LIAR. I’ll just copy a direct quote or two or three or four or five or six… HOWE many direct quotes would you like??? Gotta LOVE koehler. dahl makes koheler look like St. Francis. Our friend lyingfrosty dahl only likes to PUNISH dogs to MOTIVATE them: Amy lyingfrosty dahl LIES with a straight face and says: "I don’t beat dogs, twist ears, or pinch toes. For the benefit of anyone who is in doubt, and who chooses not to read the article (SHE’D REALLY LIKE IT IF YOU DON’T READ IT!), there is NO mention in it of "twisting ears (INDEED, SHE PINCHES THEM WITH SPIKES). I would never slap a dog (SHE TEACHES PEOPLE TO BEAT DOGS WITH STICKS TO MOTIVATE THEM). I would never advise anyone to slap a dog (SHE’S A PROVEN LIAR AND DOG ABUSER, do you expect her to ADMIT THE TRUTH???). I do not believe there is a single circumstance, ever, where slapping a dog is anything but destructive." RIGHT. She PINCHES, not twists… and chin cuff doesn’t mean hit, according to lyinglynn and avrama…. amy lyingfrosty dahl continues: "Get a stick 30- or 40-inches long. You can have a helper wield the stick, or do it yourself. Tougher, less tractable dogs may require you to progress to striking them more sharply. REPEAT, VARYING HOW HARD YOU HIT THE DOG. Now you are ready to progress to what most people think of as force-fetching: the ear pinch. Make the dog’s need to stop the pinching so urgent that resisting your will fades in importance. but will squeal, thrash around, and direct their efforts to escaping the ear pinch even get a studded collar and pinch the ear against that if the dog still does not open its mouth, get out the shotshell. Try pinching the ear between the metal casing and the collar, even the buckle on the collar. Persist! Eventually, the dog will give in" With your hand on the collar and ear, say, ‘fetch.’ Immediately tap the dog on the hindquarters with the stick. Repeat "fetch" and pinch the ear all the way to the dummy. You can press the dog’s ear with a shotshell instead of your thumb; Say "fetch" while pressing the dummy against its lips and pinching its ear. Here’s my ”Spike & Squirt" method in detail: Most of our vicious rpdb Gang Of Thugs members have taken an out of context quote from me regarding the temporary elevated temperatures and diarrhea my dogs get when going through protection training… they knew what I meant, because the discussion was about my objection to hitting the dogs as is done in schutzhund trials with a stick to "proof" them…, a practice I find abhorrent. Most protection trainers will hit the dog with a switch, flank them, i.e pulling the loose skin in front of the rear leg that attaches just behind the ribs, pulling their ears and tails, and hitting them in the face with their hand, usually while muzzled. I do NOT use or approve of any of those ”methods. I don’t use any physical ‘’stimulation” when I protection train a dog, except for letting them get a bite once in a while on the sleeve. I don’t use any force, fear, or confrontation in any of my work, except on the news group with our Gang Of Thugs… who’ve earned that title because of the vicious practices they use and defend… while they try to convince you that I abuse dogs and that my methods do not work… and that HURTING YOUR DOG is necessary, and that choke and pronged and shock collars DO NOT HURT… read the posts, folks… somebody’s TRYING to make a fool of somebody… That’s why they’re FREAKING OUT, because I’m EXPOSING them. What makes my student’s temp go up and causes diarrhea within a couple minutes of beginning protection training? The dog has spent weeks, maybe months, learning only to be gentle, polite, and loving… When I’ve trained dogs to be peaceable and respectful by gentle handling and demonstrating those qualities, the dogs are aghast when suddenly our quiet world is disturbed by a suspicious character, my agitator, attempting to hurt his owner… What do you think would happen to an untrained (protection) dog or man, if some cretin tried to hurt his people? When his handler is unexpectedly provoked and intimidated, the dog is torn between doing what the rules always have been, and what the situation now requires… This stresses the dog, just as we’d be stressed were we to find some molester bothering our family… In just a couple of minutes, the dog has to make a decision to violate everything he’s been taught, in order to protect his handler… The fight or flight response kicks in, and survival instinct ups the ante… The dog vacillates between fear and aggression, as does the handler, according to my instructions. The dog begins to growl, the agitator runs off, the handler thanks the dog profusely, and the dog has a temporary elevated temperature and loose bowel movement, just as anyone might, had they just sent off a bunch of hooligans… The reaction is temporary, the dog learns that there is nothing to fear, and the next time the dog hears ”watch him,” he’s like a hornets nest looking everywhere for danger…  The temp shoots up quickly and goes down quickly, the dog shows no signs of distress, they feel good actually, cocky is the best way I could describe it. Pleased and confident, but reserved, not overly excited, sober might best describe their attitude. They mature, just like a child who learns martial arts might be expected to become, as a result of learning self control and discipline through the training. That is nothing like the happy excited look that all the Thugs are describing when their dogs see the pronged collar coming… that excited attitude is stress because of the association of corrections and from constant triggering of the opposition reflex as the dog is being forced to work. I then go on to do a makeup exercise after the five minute session, to insure that the dog is not harboring any stress or hostility towards the agitator. That’s as violent as my protection training gets. We do "’spar with them, but not with contact, only the moves to show the dog where a kick or strike might come from… and to teach the dog to bite the most vulnerable parts of their opponent. Most of the agitators I use are martial arts students. They get to practice their speed teaching the dog to work much like we would train in the ring… but without contact… I don’t mind contact when I spar, but I’m prepared to bust something now and again… My dog’s aren’t, and I won’t risk having an accident that will diminish my dog’s desire to work. Our Gang Of Thugs has had a field day trying to say that my methods are abusive BEFORE I’ve even discussed them… In fact, when I finally did explain, NOBODY cared to notice, they only continued to talk about "my abusive methods of spike and squirt"… Take a look at Jerry’s HIGH-STAKES CHALLENGE if … read more »

Response:

Tgala, Its good to see that there’s someone on this forum for a change who actually supports non abusive methods of training…. Jerry gets abuse all the time because the rest of the ‘thugs’ on here simply can’t understand that you don’t need to use force or hurt a dog to ‘train’ it. Have you read Jerrys manual?  It has a lot of interesting information in it.  Another excellent book is Marilyn Bergemans ‘Essentials for the Domestic DogOwner’  (www.soundplaydogs.com).   This is also a non confrontational method of training, and if you haven’t guessed already, Marilyn isn’t liked on this forum either.   Basically if you’re don’t believe in aversive methods of training on here, then you get killfiled. Good to see someone else who supports ‘positive training methods’ Donna > I don’t think the majority of browsers on this list realise that Jerry’s posts > about using force on dogs are quotes done tongue in cheek from Koehler.  If you > look at the training manual, he seems to know what he is talking about. > He advocates non-abusive techniques that teach the dog without using food or > violence.  I think he understands dogs.  Period. > Perhaps his language is a bit abrupt.  But I think his methods are an > interesting alternative.

Before you buy.

Response:

Hello christy,

> I don’t think the majority of browsers on this list realise that Jerry’s > posts about using force on dogs are quotes done tongue in cheek from > Koehler.

NOT QUITE. I’ve posted koehler ADVICE to point out what our Gang Of Thugs APPROVES OF… > That may be true. The majority of *readers* of the *usenet newsgroup* have > him killfiled.

The "MAJORITY" are koehler trainers. >  If you look at the training manual, he seems to know what he is talking > about. > However, if you *read* it, you’ll quickly realize he doesn’t.

NOBODY here has come up with ANY criticism, ‘cept a couple typo’s and gramma errors. That’s what’s REALLY killing you bums. Of ALL the posts I write, there’s been NO VALID COMPLAINTS about my advice and methods. > He advocates non-abusive techniques that teach the dog without using > food or violence.

As it should be. > He also advocates that people who disagree with him commit suicide.

Only the koehler trainers. HOWE do YOU feel about BEATING dogs to "TRAIN" them??? > Nobody really cares if he advocates non-abusive techniques,

OF COURSE NOT! > since nobody here actually advocates abusive techniques.

LIAR! I’ll post a few DOZENS of quotes, if you’d like that AGAIN. > If that was all he did, without making irrational claims of abuse against > other posters,

CLAIMS? I’ll just post some DIRECT QUOTES. > while maintaining that his unoriginal and peculiar methods are the only > ones that work,

YOU SAID THAT. I’ll endorse ANY EXCELLENT ADVICE. Give. Give me ONE piece of training advice that is expedient and not going to hurt, and I’ll endorse it… Start packing a lunch. You ain’t gonna find that here from our Gang Of Thugs. > while hawking a junky plastic box,

My Doggy Do Right (and Kitty Will Too) saves dog’s lives, and is 100% money back, satisfaction guaraneed FOREVER. > then nobody would have argument with him.

NO PROBLEM. I’d STILL have an argument with you dog abusers… and you liars… > Perhaps you are close to him, and can suggest this to him?

Perhaps you should CHOKE? >I think he understands dogs.  Period.

Better than anyone else on this board. > Interesting. Nothing that I ever read (before I killfiled him) indicated to > me that he understood anything about dogs, or had ever even owned one, > let alone trained thousands.

Blame that on your pals who told you to "killfile" me… like you’ve got me in your killfile. You read my post first, you weasel. And you’re a liar. > Since he is unable to provide anyone with any proof

PROOF? What proof. I’ve got INFORMATION. Take it or leave it. But you’re not going to get away with defending HURTING dogs anymore. > that he has ever done so, has rejected offers to by posters to visit his > training classes, and apparently lives in a shack without a working laundry > dryer, it seems highly unlikely that his claims have any validity.

Says you. You DEFEND HURTING DOGS. > Perhaps his language is a bit abrupt.  But I think his methods are an > interesting alternative.

The BEST anywhere. > Great, that is your choice.

And it’ll be the choice of the rest of the group, once we dump you and your pals, our Gang Of Thugs who LOVE koehler. And HANGING dogs that object to being abused. > I think he’s a nutjob with way too much time on > his hands, but if his methods work for you, that’s nifty.

Nifty? Nifty that we don’t have to HURT dogs and KILL the ones we can’t HURT ENOUGH to make them think we’re FREAKING GOD??? > Christy

Yours for eternal salvation, Jerry "The Christ" Howe. lyinlynn says: "I LOVE KOEHLER," and in the next breath denies being a ‘koehler trainer.’ Is that because she ALSO shocks dogs, and koehler never had a shock collar? Koehler on correcting the housebreaking backslider: "If the punishment is not severe enough, some of these "backsliders" will think they’re winning and will continue to mess in the house. An indelible impression can sometimes be made by giving the dog a hard spanking of long duration, then leaving him tied by the mess he’s made so you can come back at twenty minute intervals and punish him again for the same thing. (Dogs are REALLY stupid. J.H.) In most cases, the dog that deliberately does this disagreeable thing cannot be made reliable by the light spanking that some owners seem to think is adequate punishment. It will be better for your dog, as well as the house, if you really pour it on him." Our professor of behavior Wisc. U., lyingdoc dermer endorses koehler. (He said: "I punish dog’s behavior, NOT the dog." You gonna believe THAT CRAP, PEOPLE???) ron likes to use the heavy belt on his dogs "Read koehler for content" Mark Shaw, Sadist, rpdb regular. "I LOVE KOHELER" lyinglynn, pathological liar, noted dog abuser. "There’s much wisdom in koehler," deana pace. (Her dogs run away from home.) "Read koehler," lyingdogDUMMY. (koehler is all he understands.) "Read koehler, cindymorons k-9 web faq’s page," ludwig smith. "I’m not a koehler trainer," cindymoron, lyinglynn, lyingfrosty dahl. But they spout koehler’s methods. They don’t consider themselves koehler trainers because they shock, twist and pinch ears and toes, and BEAT DOGS WITH STICKS to MOTIVATE them. lyinglynn writes: > For barking in the crate – leave the leash on and > pass it through the crate door.  Attach a line to it. > When he barks, use the line for a correction. > Nope. That "beating dogs with sticks" things is > something you twisted out of context, because you > are full of bizarro manure.

LIAR. I’ll just copy a direct quote or two or three or four or five or six… HOWE many direct quotes would you like??? Gotta LOVE koehler. dahl makes koheler look like St. Francis. Our friend lyingfrosty dahl only likes to PUNISH dogs to MOTIVATE them: Amy lyingfrosty dahl LIES with a straight face and says: "I don’t beat dogs, twist ears, or pinch toes. For the benefit of anyone who is in doubt, and who chooses not to read the article (SHE’D REALLY LIKE IT IF YOU DON’T READ IT!), there is NO mention in it of "twisting ears (INDEED, SHE PINCHES THEM WITH SPIKES). I would never slap a dog (SHE TEACHES PEOPLE TO BEAT DOGS WITH STICKS TO MOTIVATE THEM). I would never advise anyone to slap a dog (SHE’S A PROVEN LIAR AND DOG ABUSER, do you expect her to ADMIT THE TRUTH???). I do not believe there is a single circumstance, ever, where slapping a dog is anything but destructive." RIGHT. She PINCHES, not twists… and chin cuff doesn’t mean hit, according to lyinglynn and avrama…. amy lyingfrosty dahl continues: "Get a stick 30- or 40-inches long. You can have a helper wield the stick, or do it yourself. Tougher, less tractable dogs may require you to progress to striking them more sharply. REPEAT, VARYING HOW HARD YOU HIT THE DOG. Now you are ready to progress to what most people think of as force-fetching: the ear pinch. Make the dog’s need to stop the pinching so urgent that resisting your will fades in importance. but will squeal, thrash around, and direct their efforts to escaping the ear pinch even get a studded collar and pinch the ear against that if the dog still does not open its mouth, get out the shotshell. Try pinching the ear between the metal casing and the collar, even the buckle on the collar. Persist! Eventually, the dog will give in" With your hand on the collar and ear, say, ‘fetch.’ Immediately tap the dog on the hindquarters with the stick. Repeat "fetch" and pinch the ear all the way to the dummy. You can press the dog’s ear with a shotshell instead of your thumb; Say "fetch" while pressing the dummy against its lips and pinching its ear.

Response:

First of all, it’s HOW not HOWE. There is something really fishy about this post. If you truly enjoy spiking a dog’s temperature to 106, then by all means use Jerry’s advice. While that can be fatal to a dog, it’s your call. And while you are at it, buy his crazy DDR device. After all, it cures EVERYTHING like magic. If you trust people like this, then well…you have a problem.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I don’t think the majority of browsers on this list realise that Jerry’s posts > about using force on dogs are quotes done tongue in cheek from Koehler. If you > look at the training manual, he seems to know what he is talking about. > He advocates non-abusive techniques that teach the dog without using food or > violence.  I think he understands dogs.  Period. > Perhaps his language is a bit abrupt.  But I think his methods are an > interesting alternative.

Response:

Hello psychoclown,

>I don’t think the majority of browsers > There. Are. No. Browsers. Here. > on this list. > There. Is. No. List. Here.

We’ll discuss semantics of lists and ng’s AFTER we’re done discussing twisting and pinching ears and toes and BEATING DOGS WITH STICKS to MOTIVATE them, and HANGING dogs to REHABILITATE them from their training. > realise that Jerry’s posts >about using force on dogs are quotes done tongue in cheek from

Koehler. Most of our Gang Of Thugs ARE koehler trainers. > If by "tongue in cheek" you mean "misrepresented and distorted", I > might be able to agree with that.

"Nope. That "beating dogs with sticks" things is  something you twisted out of context, because you  are full of bizarro manure." LIAR. I’ll just copy a direct quote or two or three or four or five or six… HOWE many direct quotes would you like??? They’re right out of the koehler book. I’ll post some later. >  If you look at the training manual, he seems to know what he is talking > about. > I have looked at his "manual".

You looked for typo’s an gramma errors. > I do not feel he knows what he is talking about.

You HURT dogs to train them. You WANT to HURT dogs. You LIKE AUTHORITY. You’ve got some SERIOUS personality disorders… > In addition, I found it to be poorly reasoned, and poorly written.

INDEED. I wrote it specificially for our Gang Of Thugs. > There are much better sources of information. Like the local library, > and this newsgroup’s FAQ page.

Yes. koehler and cindymooreon’s web page, where we learn to shove our fingers down puppy’s throats to choke them out of mouthing, chin cuffin (which doesn’t mean hit), scruff shaking, kneeing dogs in the chest, throwing them down by their ears and climbing all over them like a raped ape, sticking dog’s heads under water in a hole you’ve filled to break them of digging, and of course, twisting and pinching their ears and toes for ALL ADVANCED training… > So, why does it "seem" to you that he knows what he is talking about?

Because I’ve got INFORMATION that YOU don’t have. > It doesn’t seem that way to many other people, so it might help if you > were a bit more specific.

You mean it doesn’t seem to be that way to our Gang Of Thugs who LIKE to HURT dogs to train them. They’re AFRAID that if non violent training works, they’ll have no more excuses to HURT dogs, and some of them will be SAD. > He advocates non-abusive techniques that teach the dog without using > food or violence. > Not true. For example, he advocates a _very_ abusive technique for > training protection dogs.

I’ll post it below. There is NO abuse whatsoever. You’re a LIAR. > He doesn’t really like dogs very much. Were you aware of that? Said so > himself, on this here newsgroup.

That’s right. I’ve spent three dozen years specializing in temperment problems and protection, usually own five to fifteen dogs of my own, and work with scores of dogs daily for many years at the kennel, and I don’t like dogs…. > I think he understands dogs.  Period. > I don’t. Period.

YOU WANT TO INFLICT PAIN ON DOGS TO TRAIN THEM. > In fact, I think my six-year-old niece understands dogs way better > than he does. Of course, she’s pretty bright (related to me, after > all).

Yes. We’ll see if Harlan doesn’t screw up on her one day, and put her in the sweet smelling black box your pal lyingdogDUMMY is always talking about to justify HANGING dogs. > Actually, come to think of it, I think my sister’s _cat_ understands > dogs better than jer does. I base this on his recent interactions with > Harlan.

*(and Kitty Will Too). > Nope. At this point, I’m not sure Jerry could correctly identify which > one was the dog in a children’s picture book.

I’m pretty good at DISCREDITING the DOG ABUSERS I’M IDENTIFYING and EXPOSING. >Perhaps his language is a bit abrupt. > His language is the least of his problems, even though it is > considerably worse than a "bit abrupt".

BLUNT??? TRUTHFUL??? PAINFULLY ACCURATE??? > No, his big problem is that he’s completely insane. His next biggest > problem is his mean-spirited nature. The fact that he isn’t very smart > is a distant third.

Mean? Not me. I don’t HURT dogs. YOUR PALS DO. > Oh, yeah, another problem is constant lying. Or do you think I should > consider that part of his basic insanity?

Post a few of my lies. YOU are the liar, and I post YOUR lies all the time… > But I think his methods are an interesting alternative.

They’re the best available ANYWHERE. > If by "interesting" you mean "baloney-scented".

FOOLED YOU. IT’S SOY! Stupid ‘bot. > Hey, I admit, I, too, often find insane ramblings interesting (though > not jer’s, lately, as he hasn’t come up with any new material in over > a year), but not everyone shares my interest in mental illness.

You think I need NEW dog abuser material? I’ve got enought over the last year to last forever. > The methods that are his and his alone are nutty.

They work. I’ve got solutions for just about every behavior problem that stumps our "experts" here… There is no one with better information and advice than I offer for FREE. > The other stuff is easily found elsewhere.

IS THAT SO? You bums have been all over the place on that, contradicting yourselves left and right. Take a physic. > –Terri & Harlan (‘Bot, I think you’ve just been trolled. Sucker.)

That’s why we’re here… Care to tell us HOWE YOU feel about twisting and pinching and jerking and choking dogs on pronged choke collars and shocking and BEATING DOGS WITH STICKS to MOTIVATE them, and HANGING dogs to REHABILITATE them from their "training?" lyinglynn writes: > For barking in the crate – leave the leash on and > pass it through the crate door.  Attach a line to it. > When he barks, use the line for a correction.

A CORRECTION? You’re going to JERK and CHOKE this new foster dog out of being AFRAID… that’s CORRECTION? A quote from koehler: "In most cases, the dog that deliberately does this disagreeable thing cannot be made reliable by the light spanking that some owners seem to think is adequate punishment. It will be better for your dog, as well as the house, if you really pour it on him." Our professor of behavior Wisc. U., lyingdoc dermer endorses koehler. (He said: "I punish dog’s behavior, NOT the dog." You gonna believe THAT CRAP, PEOPLE???) ron likes to use the heavy belt on his dogs "Read koehler for content" Mark Shaw, Sadist, rpdb regular. "I LOVE KOHELER" lyinglynn, pathological liar, noted dog abuser. "There’s much wisdom in koehler," deana pace. (Her dogs run away from home.) "Read koehler," lyingdogDUMMY. (koehler is all he understands.) "Read koehler, cindymorons k-9 web faq’s page," ludwig smith. "I’m not a koehler trainer," cindymoron, lyinglynn, lyingfrosty dahl. But they spout koehler’s methods. They don’t consider themselves koehler trainers because they shock, twist and pinch ears and toes, and BEAT DOGS WITH STICKS to MOTIVATE them. lyinlynn says: "I LOVE KOEHLER," and in the next breath denies being a ‘koehler trainer.’ Is that because she ALSO shocks dogs, and koehler never had a shock collar? Pity that he was born too late to benefit from such a wondrous teaching tool, ISN’T it??? Gotta LOVE koehler, lyingdoc dermer, cindymooron, lyinglynn, lyingfrosty dahl, lyingdogDUMMY, boob maida, and all our Gang Of Thugs. Although I’m in Florida, the reference to temperature has nothing to do with hot, except that the dog’s temperature increases due to emotional stress. The commotion about spiking temps is the only thing my detractors can latch onto based on an out of context quote. It’s a dishonest attempt at character assassination. I can hardly blame them, they’re fighting to defend their miserable careers and lousy reputations… Here’s my ”Spike & Squirt" method in detail: Most of our vicious rpdb Gang Of Thugs members have taken an out of context quote from me regarding the temporary elevated temperatures and diarrhea my dogs get when going through protection training… they knew what I meant, because the discussion was about my objection to hitting the dogs as is done in schutzhund trials with a stick to "proof" them…, a practice I find abhorrent. Most protection trainers will hit the dog with a switch, flank them, i.e pulling the loose skin in front of the rear leg that attaches just behind the ribs, pulling their ears and tails, and hitting them in the face with their hand, usually while muzzled. I do NOT use or approve of any of those ”methods. I don’t use any physical ‘’stimulation” when I protection train a dog, except for letting them get a bite once in a while on the sleeve. I don’t use any force, fear, or confrontation in any of my work, except on the news group with our Gang Of Thugs… who’ve earned that title because of the vicious practices they use and defend… while they try to convince you that I abuse dogs and that my methods do not work… and that HURTING YOUR DOG is necessary, and that choke and pronged and shock collars DO NOT HURT… read the posts, folks… somebody’s TRYING to make a fool of somebody… That’s why they’re FREAKING OUT, because I’m EXPOSING them. What makes my student’s temp go up and causes diarrhea within a couple minutes of beginning protection training? The dog has spent weeks, maybe months, learning only to be gentle, polite, and loving… When I’ve trained dogs to be peaceable and respectful by gentle handling and demonstrating those qualities, the dogs are aghast when suddenly our quiet world is disturbed by a suspicious character, my agitator, attempting to hurt his owner… What do you think would happen to an untrained (protection) dog or man, if some cretin tried to hurt his people? When his handler is unexpectedly … read more »

Response:

> I don’t think the majority of browsers on this list realise that Jerry’s posts > about using force on dogs are quotes done tongue in cheek from Koehler.

That may be true. The majority of *readers* of the *usenet newsgroup* have him killfiled.   If you > look at the training manual, he seems to know what he is talking about.

However, if you *read* it, you’ll quickly realize he doesn’t. > He advocates non-abusive techniques that teach the dog without using food or > violence.

He also advocates that people who disagree with him commit suicide. Nobody really cares if he advocates non-abusive techniques, since nobody here actually advocates abusive techniques. If that was all he did, without making irrational claims of abuse against other posters, while maintaining that his unoriginal and peculiar methods are the only ones that work, while hawking a junky plastic box, then nobody would have argument with him. Perhaps you are close to him, and can suggest this to him? >I think he understands dogs.  Period.

Interesting. Nothing that I ever read (before I killfiled him) indicated to me that he understood anything about dogs, or had ever even owned one, let alone trained thousands. Since he is unable to provide anyone with any proof that he has ever done so, has rejected offers to by posters to visit his training classes, and apparently lives in a shack without a working laundry dryer, it seems highly unlikely that his claims have any validity. > Perhaps his language is a bit abrupt.  But I think his methods are an > interesting alternative.

Great, that is your choice. I think he’s a nutjob with way too much time on his hands, but if his methods work for you, that’s nifty. Christy

Response:

>>We’ve had more than eight, competent, full time, experienced, >professional dog trainers, who do not waste their time posting to >you mooreons, that are all using various, non violent techniques, who >all understand and  agree with the information I teach… Marilyn >Rammell, Canis55, Master_222, Claudette from England, >Aspiring Trainer, Ray the Vet. Tech. from NewHamshire, Parker, >Ray the R.S.P.C.A. guy from U.K., DougdogManager, >Ruth Hoffman,  

Gee, a name I have heard of.  I have real trouble believing she would have anything to do with you. — Ruth Mays Beautiful Downtown Cinnaminson It’s important to keep an open mind, But not so open that your brains fall out.

Response:

>Tgala, >Its good to see that there’s someone on this forum for a change who >actually supports non abusive methods of training…. Jerry gets abuse >all the time because the rest of the ‘thugs’ on here simply can’t >understand that you don’t need to use force or hurt a dog to ‘train’ >it.

[...] Gosh folks…isn’t it great fun watching the same little TROLL reach out for himself? It’s like watching Chris Farley look in a mirror and spank his own monkey! Right before he returns to his van…down by the river… BWAHAHAHA! — Dogman http://www.i1.net/~dogman Buster "Dogman" Bocherelli Running D Ranch New Melle, MO Visitors always welcome.

Response:

[...] >Perhaps you are close to him, and can suggest this to him?

[...] Christy, my money says that "Tgala" here is so close to Jerry "The Phony" Howe that she can just reach over and spank his monkey for him. :>) — Dogman http://www.i1.net/~dogman Homer "Dogman" Flaskamper General Delivery Defiance, MO Visitors always welcome.

Response:

>There is something really fishy about this post.

There sure is, Missy. It’s the familiar smell of ROTTING CARP. :>) >I don’t think the majority of browsers on this list realise that Jerry’s

[...] — Dogman http://www.i1.net/~dogman Homer "Dogman" Flaskamper General Delivery Defiance, MO Visitors always welcome.

Response:

[...] >I’ve specialized in behavior problems for three dozen years.

TRANSLATION: I’ve been a totally whacked out fruitcake for almost four decades now. >Thanks for the good word, but you’ll face a lot of criticism for being >unbiased   using your brains, and speaking up.

TRANSLATION: Go, nephew, go! >We’ve had more than eight, competent, full time, experienced, >professional dog trainers, who do not waste their time posting to >you mooreons, that are all using various, non violent techniques, who >all understand and  agree with the information I teach… Marilyn >Rammell, Canis55, Master_222, Claudette from England, >Aspiring Trainer, Ray the Vet. Tech. from NewHamshire, Parker, >Ray the R.S.P.C.A. guy from U.K., DougdogManager, >Ruth Hoffman,  

TRANSLATION: I’ve got so damn many aliases that my credit card bills are getting out of hand! I’m gonna have to ask "Marge" if I can use hers again. :>) — Dogman http://www.i1.net/~dogman Homer "Dogman" Flaskamper General Delivery Defiance, MO Visitors always welcome.

Response:

> I don’t think the majority of browsers on this list realise that Jerry’s posts > about using force on dogs are quotes done tongue in cheek from Koehler.  If you > look at the training manual, he seems to know what he is talking about. > He advocates non-abusive techniques that teach the dog without using food or > violence.  I think he understands dogs.  Period. > Perhaps his language is a bit abrupt.  But I think his methods are an > interesting alternative.

Hello TGala, I’ve got the best information on our forum. I’ve specialized in behavior problems for three dozen years. The majority of our rpdb regulars ARE koehler trainers. That’s what all this killfile Jerry business is about. Thanks for the good word, but you’ll face a lot of criticism for being unbiased   using your brains, and speaking up. That’s O.K. The alternative is to allow some pretty crummy advice to go unchallenged. The kind of crummy advice that GETS DOGS KILLED. Our Gang Of Thugs has a long history of keeping competent trainers off of this forum. They harass, denigrate, contradict, and ridicule every non force trainer who’s ever posted here. They’re some of the BEST TALENT, but because they won’t HURT dogs to train them, our Gang Of Thugs FEARS them, because if non force training works, THEY’LL have no more EXCUSES for HURTING dogs. We’ve had more than eight, competent, full time, experienced, professional dog trainers, who do not waste their time posting to you mooreons, that are all using various, non violent techniques, who all understand and  agree with the information I teach… Marilyn Rammell, Canis55, Master_222, Claudette from England, Aspiring Trainer, Ray the Vet. Tech. from NewHamshire, Parker, Ray the R.S.P.C.A. guy from U.K., DougdogManager, Ruth Hoffman,  Robert Crim (not a pro, but he knows HOWE to train BECAUSE HE LEARNED THE HARD WAY), among others… Yours, Jerry. You can get all the information you need to properly handle and train your dog using non force, non confrontational, scientific and psychological behavior modification and conditioning techniques, from the Wits’ End Dog Training Method manual available for free at http://www.doggydoright.com "Thus we should beware of clinging to vulgar opinions, and judge things by reason’s way, not by popular say." Montaigne "Violence is the last refuge of the incompetent." Salvor Hardin "If you cannot convince them, confuse them." H.S. Truman. DRAINING THE SWAMP, AND RELOCATING THE GATORS… j;~) "CUSTOM WILL RECONCILE PEOPLE TO ANY ATROCITY." G.B. Shaw. "I know that most men, including those at ease with problems of the greatest complexity, can seldom accept even the simplest and most obvious truth if it would oblige them to admit the falsity of conclusions which they have delighted in explaining to colleagues, proudly taught to others, and which they have woven, thread by thread, into the fabric of their lives."                                              Leo Tolstoy Is it any wonder that the following sig file has generated more complaints to my personal email than any other controversial post I have made to date, bar none?:                                             caveat If you have to do things to your dog to train him, that you would rather not have to do, then you shouldn’t be doing them. If you have a dog trainer that tells you to jerk your dog around, choke him, pinch his ears, or twist his toes, shock, shake, slap, scold, hit, or punish him in any manner, that corrections are appropriate, that the dog won’t think of you as the punisher, or that corrections are not harmful, or if they can’t train your dog to do what you want, look for a trainer that knows Howe. Sincerely, Jerry Howe, Wits’ End Dog Training http://www.doggydoright.com Nature, to be mastered, must be obeyed.                       -Francis Bacon- There are terrible people who, instead of solving a problem, bungle it and make it more difficult for all who come after.  Who ever can’t hit the nail on the head should, please, not hit at all.                      -Nietzsche- The abilities to think, rationalize and solve problems are learned qualities. The Wits’ End Dog Training Method challenges the learning centers in the dogs brain. These centers, once challenged, develop and continue to grow exponentially, to make him smarter. The Wits’ End Dog Training method capitalizes on praising split seconds of canine thought, strategy, and timing, not mindless hours of forced repetition, constant corrections, and scolding.                   -Jerry Howe-

Response:

>I don’t think the majority of browsers

There. Are. No. Browsers. Here. > on this list

There. Is. No. List. Here. > realise that Jerry’s posts >about using force on dogs are quotes done tongue in cheek from Koehler.

If by "tongue in cheek" you mean "misrepresented and distorted", I might be able to agree with that. >  If you >look at the training manual, he seems to know what he is talking about.  

I have looked at his "manual". I do not feel he knows what he is talking about. In addition, I found it to be poorly reasoned, and poorly written. There are much better sources of information. Like the local library, and this newsgroup’s FAQ page. So, why does it "seem" to you that he knows what he is talking about? It doesn’t seem that way to many other people, so it might help if you were a bit more specific. >He advocates non-abusive techniques that teach the dog without using food or >violence.

Not true. For example, he advocates a _very_ abusive technique for training protection dogs. He doesn’t really like dogs very much. Were you aware of that? Said so himself, on this here newsgroup. > I think he understands dogs.  Period.  

I don’t. Period. In fact, I think my six-year-old niece understands dogs way better than he does. Of course, she’s pretty bright (related to me, after all). Actually, come to think of it, I think my sister’s _cat_ understands dogs better than jer does. I base this on his recent interactions with Harlan. Nope. At this point, I’m not sure Jerry could correctly identify which one was the dog in a children’s picture book. >Perhaps his language is a bit abrupt.

His language is the least of his problems, even though it is considerably worse than a "bit abrupt". No, his big problem is that he’s completely insane. His next biggest problem is his mean-spirited nature. The fact that he isn’t very smart is a distant third. Oh, yeah, another problem is constant lying. Or do you think I should consider that part of his basic insanity? > But I think his methods are an interesting alternative.

If by "interesting" you mean "baloney-scented". Hey, I admit, I, too, often find insane ramblings interesting (though not jer’s, lately, as he hasn’t come up with any new material in over a year), but not everyone shares my interest in mental illness. The methods that are his and his alone are nutty. The other stuff is easily found elsewhere. –Terri & Harlan (‘Bot, I think you’ve just been trolled. Sucker.)

Response:

I don’t think the majority of browsers on this list realise that Jerry’s posts about using force on dogs are quotes done tongue in cheek from Koehler.  If you look at the training manual, he seems to know what he is talking about.   He advocates non-abusive techniques that teach the dog without using food or violence.  I think he understands dogs.  Period.   Perhaps his language is a bit abrupt.  But I think his methods are an interesting alternative.

Response:

Can't get dog into doghouse – Help?

Question:

Okay; makes sense to me.  Ono does well sleeping inside and outside. Either way, she wakes up at 5:00 and is ready to play–if I try to sleep in, forget it!  She wakes up the whole neighborhood, whether inside or out, barking, squeaking her loudest toy, tossing the ball, etc.  She would be pretty hard to neglect–she’s pretty insistent on getting her way!  :0) – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Okay.  I understand where you’re coming from here.  Would you say, then, > that it’s cruel to let a dog sleep primarily outside and then have > companion time inside and outside?  Just curious. > I don’t use the word "cruel" so lightly.  It depends on the dog.  If the > dog is distressed then a change needs to occur.  If the dog is > comfortable with the situation then I have no problem with it.  I tend to > caution people that dogs that are comfortable spending a lot of time by > themselves are also often not very good companions.  They are also often > difficult to train because they are independent enough that they really > don’t care what YOU think.  There are a lot of variables that will make a > difference.  One thing is for certain, however, the more time a dog > spends alone the more the risk of problem behaviors goes up.  Notice I > said RSIK, not certainty.  There are always exceptions.  I tend to pay > attention to what the dog’s behavior is telling me, than make a blanket > decision, but I’m still going to advise for the lowest risks to the dog. > Diane Blackman > http://www.dog-play.com/  http://www.dog-play.com/TOTE.html > Re: Jerry Howe http://www.dog-play.com/jerry.html > Falling short of a goal of "excellent" leaves room for "very good." > Falling short of a goal of "good enough" leaves only "not good enough."

– "An eye for an eye, and the whole world would be blind." (Kahlil Gibran)

Response:

If the dogs like to stay outside they should stay outside,it is how they started out in life as a dog to stay in working dogs are kept outside

whittled these words: – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> In Alaska, a dog is going to be either an inside or an outside dog.  To > let the dog in and then put him out again at -50 won’t work; the dog > would overheat while inside and sweat, and then freeze quickly when put > outside to piddle. > So, we have a McKenzie River Husky, a Newfoundland and a new cocker > spaniel puppy. Both large dogs love to be inside, but after about an > hour, they’re standing at the door, barking.  They choose to go outside > and stay outside. I think it’s because their coats are so thick it’s too > warm for them inside, and they love to watch the moose outside! So, I > politely (and respectfully) disagree that it’s always cruel to leave a > dog outside.  I think that outside’s a fun place to be when it’s well > balanced with time inside & lots of attention and love. > I don’t think anyone said it is "always" creul to leave a dog > outside. They talked about leaving a dog ALONE outside.  Big difference > when the dog has a companion.  The explanation for not leaving the dog > outside had to do with SOCIAL needs, not temperature.  1. Your dogs are > not ALONE, and 2. apparently they spend as much time indoors as they > choose. > Diane Blackman > http://www.dog-play.com/  http://www.dog-play.com/TOTE.html

Before you buy.

Response:

> If the dogs like to stay outside they should stay outside,it is how > they started out in life as a dog to stay in working dogs are kept > outside

In groups…… never alone. — Toni www.irish-wolfhounds.com Click the "Update on Steve"

Response:

Hello blackman,

> I don’t use the word "cruel" so lightly.

Nor do you use it in appropriate circumsances, like when we’re talking about HURTING dogs to train them, eh good buddy? > It depends on the dog.

Yes, every thing depends on the dog. Don’t let your intellect get in the way. > If the dog is distressed then a change needs to occur.

That’s nice. > If the dog is comfortable with the situation then I have no problem

with it. You have no problem for jerking and choking dogs on pronged choke and electronic collars. You knit little cover-ups for pronged choke collars. > I tend to caution people that dogs that are comfortable spending a lot of > time by themselves are also often not very good companions.

You tend to run your yap about things you know nothing about. >  They are also often difficult to train because they are independent enough > that they really don’t care what YOU think.

No dog is going to care what you think if you’re jerking and choking IT. > There are a lot of variables that will make a difference.

You mean TRAINING??? > One thing is for certain, however, the more time a dog spends alone the > more the risk of problem behaviors goes up.  Notice I said RSIK, not > certainty.

I NOTICE you are operating out of FEAR again. >  There are always exceptions.

INDEED. But you do not posess the intellect, principles, morals, ethics, or character, to discriminate. > I tend to pay attention to what the dog’s behavior is telling me, than make > a blanket decision, but I’m still going to advise for the lowest risks to the > dog.

You mean you anthropomorphise and justify mishandling dogs OUT OF FEAR. > Diane Blackman > http://www.dog-play.com/  http://www.dog-play.com/TOTE.html > Re: Jerry Howe http://www.dog-play.com/jerry.html > Falling short of a goal of "excellent" leaves room for "very good." > Falling short of a goal of "good enough" leaves only "not good

enough." Falling short of ”good enough” is what brought me in here. And I won’t be leaving till the INFORMATION coming out of here is no less than EXCELLENT. You can get all the information you need to properly handle and train your dog using non force, non confrontational, scientific and psychological behavior modification and conditioning techniques, from the Wits’ End Dog Training Method manual available for free at http://www.doggydoright.com "Thus we should beware of clinging to vulgar opinions, and judge things by reason’s way, not by popular say." Montaigne "Violence is the last refuge of the incompetent." Salvor Hardin "If you cannot convince them, confuse them." H.S. Truman. DRAINING THE SWAMP, AND RELOCATING THE GATORS… j;~) "CUSTOM WILL RECONCILE PEOPLE TO ANY ATROCITY." G.B. Shaw. "I know that most men, including those at ease with problems of the greatest complexity, can seldom accept even the simplest and most obvious truth if it would oblige them to admit the falsity of conclusions which they have delighted in explaining to colleagues, proudly taught to others, and which they have woven, thread by thread, into the fabric of their lives."                                              Leo Tolstoy Is it any wonder that the following sig file has generated more complaints to my personal email than any other controversial post I have made to date, bar none?:                                             caveat If you have to do things to your dog to train him, that you would rather not have to do, then you shouldn’t be doing them. If you have a dog trainer that tells you to jerk your dog around, choke him, pinch his ears, or twist his toes, shock, shake, slap, scold, hit, or punish him in any manner, that corrections are appropriate, that the dog won’t think of you as the punisher, or that corrections are not harmful, or if they can’t train your dog to do what you want, look for a trainer that knows Howe. Sincerely, Jerry Howe, Wits’ End Dog Training http://www.doggydoright.com Nature, to be mastered, must be obeyed.                       -Francis Bacon- There are terrible people who, instead of solving a problem, bungle it and make it more difficult for all who come after.  Who ever can’t hit the nail on the head should, please, not hit at all.                      -Nietzsche- The abilities to think, rationalize and solve problems are learned qualities. The Wits’ End Dog Training Method challenges the learning centers in the dogs brain. These centers, once challenged, develop and continue to grow exponentially, to make him smarter. The Wits’ End Dog Training method capitalizes on praising split seconds of canine thought, strategy, and timing, not mindless hours of forced repetition, constant corrections, and scolding.                   -Jerry Howe-

Response:

> Okay.  I understand where you’re coming from here.  Would you say, then, > that it’s cruel to let a dog sleep primarily outside and then have > companion time inside and outside?  Just curious.

I don’t use the word "cruel" so lightly.  It depends on the dog.  If the dog is distressed then a change needs to occur.  If the dog is comfortable with the situation then I have no problem with it.  I tend to caution people that dogs that are comfortable spending a lot of time by themselves are also often not very good companions.  They are also often difficult to train because they are independent enough that they really don’t care what YOU think.  There are a lot of variables that will make a difference.  One thing is for certain, however, the more time a dog spends alone the more the risk of problem behaviors goes up.  Notice I said RSIK, not certainty.  There are always exceptions.  I tend to pay attention to what the dog’s behavior is telling me, than make a blanket decision, but I’m still going to advise for the lowest risks to the dog. Diane Blackman http://www.dog-play.com/  http://www.dog-play.com/TOTE.html Re: Jerry Howe http://www.dog-play.com/jerry.html Falling short of a goal of "excellent" leaves room for "very good." Falling short of a goal of "good enough" leaves only "not good enough."

Response:

Quote: the dog would overheat while inside and sweat, and then freeze quickly when put outside to piddle.   Dogs don’t sweat. Jane Webb  & Moonpie & Raisin Pie

Response:

Okay–dogs don’t sweat, but moisture in their fur and on their body freezes and creates a problem.   > Quote: > the dog > would overheat while inside and sweat, and then freeze quickly when put > outside to piddle. > Dogs don’t sweat. > Jane Webb >  & Moonpie & Raisin Pie

– "An eye for an eye, and the whole world would be blind." (Kahlil Gibran)

Response:

Okay.  I understand where you’re coming from here.  Would you say, then, that it’s cruel to let a dog sleep primarily outside and then have companion time inside and outside?  Just curious. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> In Alaska, a dog is going to be either an inside or an outside dog.  To > let the dog in and then put him out again at -50 won’t work; the dog > would overheat while inside and sweat, and then freeze quickly when put > outside to piddle. > So, we have a McKenzie River Husky, a Newfoundland and a new cocker > spaniel puppy. Both large dogs love to be inside, but after about an > hour, they’re standing at the door, barking.  They choose to go outside > and stay outside. I think it’s because their coats are so thick it’s too > warm for them inside, and they love to watch the moose outside!  So, I > politely (and respectfully) disagree that it’s always cruel to leave a > dog outside.  I think that outside’s a fun place to be when it’s well > balanced with time inside & lots of attention and love. > I don’t think anyone said it is "always" creul to leave a dog > outside. They talked about leaving a dog ALONE outside.  Big difference > when the dog has a companion.  The explanation for not leaving the dog > outside had to do with SOCIAL needs, not temperature.  1. Your dogs are > not ALONE, and 2. apparently they spend as much time indoors as they > choose. > Diane Blackman > http://www.dog-play.com/  http://www.dog-play.com/TOTE.html

– "An eye for an eye, and the whole world would be blind." (Kahlil Gibran)

Response:

Hello blackman, Keeping dogs outside is only a bugaboo to these boogymen who HURT dogs as a matter of course. They’ll latch onto ANYTHING to be able to condemn someone else, so they don’t look so MISERABLE themselves. Why don’t YOU tell us HOWE blackman feels about twisting and pinching ears and toes and BEATING DOGS WITH STICKS to MOTIVATE them, and HANGING dogs to REHABILITATE them from the abuse they suffer under the disguise of TRAINING. Oh, I forgot. They’ve all got links to your miserable web site… That’s where we find those bums. Sorry. I guess we all know HOWE you feel about HURTING dogs to train them. Your pal, Jerry. P.S. I’m having difficulty knitting the little cover-up you recommend for the pronged choke collar. Got any tips? j;~}

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I don’t know whether the dog was adopted from the Denver Dumb Friends > League or not, but the DDFL certainly doesn’t go to great lengths to > discourage people from keeping pets outdoors: > http://www.ddfl.org/behavior/winter2.htm > I think they are being realistic and thinking first of providing for the > needs of dogs whose owners are already decided.  If you start a message > by telling people "don’t" do what they are already committed to doing > they are likely never to finish reading it.  So the first step is to make > sure that IF a dog is outdoors that it is as safe as possible THEN gently > introduce alternatives. > Diane Blackman > http://www.dog-play.com/  http://www.dog-play.com/TOTE.html > "Reinforcement is any response by the trainer to a dog’s voluntary > behavior that increase the probability that the behavior will be offered > again.  . .  .  Something is reinforcing only if we are willing to work to > obtain it.""Smart Trainers — Brilliant Dogs" by Janet Lewis

Response:

In Alaska, a dog is going to be either an inside or an outside dog.  To let the dog in and then put him out again at -50 won’t work; the dog would overheat while inside and sweat, and then freeze quickly when put outside to piddle.   So, we have a McKenzie River Husky, a Newfoundland and a new cocker spaniel puppy. Both large dogs love to be inside, but after about an hour, they’re standing at the door, barking.  They choose to go outside and stay outside. I think it’s because their coats are so thick it’s too warm for them inside, and they love to watch the moose outside!  So, I politely (and respectfully) disagree that it’s always cruel to leave a dog outside.  I think that outside’s a fun place to be when it’s well balanced with time inside & lots of attention and love. With that in mind, have you brought the doghouse inside?  Perhaps you could leave it in the house for a while for your new friend to become acquainted with it, and maybe even toss a favorite blanket or toy inside the door?  Maybe even sit on the floor next to it, and play with your dog?  Dunno; I’m no expert, but maybe that would be a start–I once had a chow who loved to get dirty but very much hated a bath.  I figured the easiest way was to get in the tub, then since the pup loved to sit with me, I lifted her into the tub with me.  It worked, and it was much, much easier than a struggle, and much cheaper than a professional dog grooming (I like to groom my own).  After the bath, of course, I had to take a major shower & clean the whole bathroom, but it was a good experience for Newt (my chow) and after that, she loved to play in the tub! > I just got a dog from the Dumb Friends League.  She is a chow/husky mix.  She > is very well behaved for the most part, though she has obviously been given > little training. > So I went out and bought a Dogloo dog house for her as the nights are starting > to get cold.  She refuses to go in it.  She will lie next to it and shiver all > night instead.  I have tried tossing treats inside, but she just stretches out > so that her hind legs never go inside and retreives the treats.  I also put a > blanket that she has been sleeping on inside so that it might look like a > familiar bed.  That didn’t work either.  Can anyone help?  I don’t want her to > freeze!

– "An eye for an eye, and the whole world would be blind." (Kahlil Gibran)

Response:

> In Alaska, a dog is going to be either an inside or an outside dog.  To > let the dog in and then put him out again at -50 won’t work; the dog > would overheat while inside and sweat, and then freeze quickly when put > outside to piddle.   > So, we have a McKenzie River Husky, a Newfoundland and a new cocker > spaniel puppy. Both large dogs love to be inside, but after about an > hour, they’re standing at the door, barking.  They choose to go outside > and stay outside. I think it’s because their coats are so thick it’s too > warm for them inside, and they love to watch the moose outside!  So, I > politely (and respectfully) disagree that it’s always cruel to leave a > dog outside.  I think that outside’s a fun place to be when it’s well > balanced with time inside & lots of attention and love.

I don’t think anyone said it is "always" creul to leave a dog outside. They talked about leaving a dog ALONE outside.  Big difference when the dog has a companion.  The explanation for not leaving the dog outside had to do with SOCIAL needs, not temperature.  1. Your dogs are not ALONE, and 2. apparently they spend as much time indoors as they choose. Diane Blackman http://www.dog-play.com/  http://www.dog-play.com/TOTE.html

Response:

Hello d, It’s not he sleeping arrangements that’s important, it’s the way the dog is handled and trained when he’s with you… Most dogs would be best left alone, given that most dog owners like to jerk and choke and punish them when they ARE together. Jerry.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> This may not be what you want to hear, but my suggestion is: Bring her > inside.  It will help her training progress, and will be safer for her. > Why is she outside at night? Dogs naturally want to be with their > "packs".  Social isolation is very hard on them.  Many folks believe > that dogs that size do not make good "house dogs", but it really isn’t > so.  With just a little bit of training, almost any dog can learn basic > house manners. Most strays that I’ve brought into the house "get with > the program" in a week or two. > –Deirdre

Response:

> I don’t know whether the dog was adopted from the Denver Dumb Friends > League or not, but the DDFL certainly doesn’t go to great lengths to > discourage people from keeping pets outdoors: > http://www.ddfl.org/behavior/winter2.htm

I think they are being realistic and thinking first of providing for the needs of dogs whose owners are already decided.  If you start a message by telling people "don’t" do what they are already committed to doing they are likely never to finish reading it.  So the first step is to make sure that IF a dog is outdoors that it is as safe as possible THEN gently introduce alternatives. Diane Blackman http://www.dog-play.com/  http://www.dog-play.com/TOTE.html "Reinforcement is any response by the trainer to a dog’s voluntary behavior that increase the probability that the behavior will be offered again.  . .  .  Something is reinforcing only if we are willing to work to obtain it.""Smart Trainers — Brilliant Dogs" by Janet Lewis

Response:

Hello kristine, You’ve been through a couple of years of REMEDIAL obedience training with your dog, and you’ve recently turned to the sadoelectric shock collar, to deal with your dog behavior problems… And you think kenneling a dog outside is CRUEL? HA! Jerking and choking and shocking dogs is CRUEL. Jerry.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> > I just got a dog from the Dumb Friends League.  She is a chow/husky mix. > She > > is very well behaved for the most part, though she has obviously been > given > > little training. > This poor dog has enough confusion in her life right now without adding > sleeping cold and alone. > Please do some investigative reading about the nature of pack animals, and > why being banished alone outside is about the cruelest thing you can do to a > dog. > Also review WHY you wanted a dog to begin with. > I don’t know whether the dog was adopted from the Denver Dumb Friends > League or not, but the DDFL certainly doesn’t go to great lengths to > discourage people from keeping pets outdoors: > http://www.ddfl.org/behavior/winter2.htm > Kristine > & Oscar

Response:

Hello  toni,

> This poor dog has enough confusion in her life right now without adding > sleeping cold and alone.

Oh yeah? Who say sleeping outside is bad for them? > Please do some investigative reading about the nature of pack animals, and > why being banished alone outside is about the cruelest thing you can do to > a dog.

THAT’S FUNNY! You got NO PROBLEM for jerking and choking and shocking dogs, but to leave them outside is a moral dilemma??? > Also review WHY you wanted a dog to begin with.

Maybe she wan’t something to liven up the back yard. Maybe she just likes dogs. You sound like you’re against ANYONE who kennels a dog? > You two need to bond, and she needs to learn house rules.

Good. That doesn’t require the dog live inside. > This is really very easy with the umbilical method. Attach the dog to you > with a light leash about 10 feet or so long. Everywhere you go in the house, > whatever you do, she goes with you.

That’s DUMB. People shouldn’t have dogs on lead unless they’re PROPERLY working with them. > She sleeps in the floor next to your bed, as a pack member should.

Says WHO? YOU??? > The added benefit to this way of acquainting yourself with a new dog is that > you can keep an eye on her and see that she doesn’t get into trouble.

The best way to "get acquainted" and keep them out of ”trouble” is to learn proper handling and training techniqes, not improved sleeping arrangements. > She is in a major transition stage right now, and needs the love and > security of a companion… YOU.

Well, you take your major transitions and… > — > Toni > www.irish-wolfhounds.com > Click the "Update on Steve"

You can get all the information you need to properly handle and train your dog using non force, non confrontational, scientific and psychological behavior modification and conditioning techniques, from the Wits’ End Dog Training Method manual available for free at http://www.doggydoright.com "Thus we should beware of clinging to vulgar opinions, and judge things by reason’s way, not by popular say." Montaigne "Violence is the last refuge of the incompetent." Salvor Hardin "If you cannot convince them, confuse them." H.S. Truman. DRAINING THE SWAMP, AND RELOCATING THE GATORS… j;~) "CUSTOM WILL RECONCILE PEOPLE TO ANY ATROCITY." G.B. Shaw. "I know that most men, including those at ease with problems of the greatest complexity, can seldom accept even the simplest and most obvious truth if it would oblige them to admit the falsity of conclusions which they have delighted in explaining to colleagues, proudly taught to others, and which they have woven, thread by thread, into the fabric of their lives."                                              Leo Tolstoy Is it any wonder that the following sig file has generated more complaints to my personal email than any other controversial post I have made to date, bar none?:                                             caveat If you have to do things to your dog to train him, that you would rather not have to do, then you shouldn’t be doing them. If you have a dog trainer that tells you to jerk your dog around, choke him, pinch his ears, or twist his toes, shock, shake, slap, scold, hit, or punish him in any manner, that corrections are appropriate, that the dog won’t think of you as the punisher, or that corrections are not harmful, or if they can’t train your dog to do what you want, look for a trainer that knows Howe. Sincerely, Jerry Howe, Wits’ End Dog Training http://www.doggydoright.com Nature, to be mastered, must be obeyed.                       -Francis Bacon- There are terrible people who, instead of solving a problem, bungle it and make it more difficult for all who come after.  Who ever can’t hit the nail on the head should, please, not hit at all.                      -Nietzsche- The abilities to think, rationalize and solve problems are learned qualities. The Wits’ End Dog Training Method challenges the learning centers in the dogs brain. These centers, once challenged, develop and continue to grow exponentially, to make him smarter. The Wits’ End Dog Training method capitalizes on praising split seconds of canine thought, strategy, and timing, not mindless hours of forced repetition, constant corrections, and scolding.                   -Jerry Howe-

Response:

Why can’t you answer her question? Jerry.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – words: > I just got a dog from the Dumb Friends League.  She is a chow/husky mix.  She > is very well behaved for the most part, though she has obviously been given > little training. > So I went out and bought a Dogloo dog house for her as the nights are starting > to get cold.  She refuses to go in it.  She will lie next to it and shiver all > night instead.  I have tried tossing treats inside, but she just stretches out > so that her hind legs never go inside and retreives the treats.  I also put a > blanket that she has been sleeping on inside so that it might look like a > familiar bed.  That didn’t work either.  Can anyone help?  I don’t want her to > freeze! > Why is she not inside with you? > Diane Blackman > http://www.dog-play.com  http://www.dog-play.com/TOTE.html

Response:

I just got a dog from the Dumb Friends League.  She is a chow/husky mix.  She is very well behaved for the most part, though she has obviously been given little training. So I went out and bought a Dogloo dog house for her as the nights are starting to get cold.  She refuses to go in it.  She will lie next to it and shiver all night instead.  I have tried tossing treats inside, but she just stretches out so that her hind legs never go inside and retreives the treats.  I also put a blanket that she has been sleeping on inside so that it might look like a familiar bed.  That didn’t work either.  Can anyone help?  I don’t want her to freeze!

Response:

This may not be what you want to hear, but my suggestion is: Bring her inside.  It will help her training progress, and will be safer for her. Why is she outside at night? Dogs naturally want to be with their "packs".  Social isolation is very hard on them.  Many folks believe that dogs that size do not make good "house dogs", but it really isn’t so.  With just a little bit of training, almost any dog can learn basic house manners. Most strays that I’ve brought into the house "get with the program" in a week or two. –Deirdre

Response:

> I just got a dog from the Dumb Friends League.  She is a chow/husky mix.  She > is very well behaved for the most part, though she has obviously been given > little training. > So I went out and bought a Dogloo dog house for her as the nights are starting > to get cold.  She refuses to go in it.  She will lie next to it and shiver all > night instead.  I have tried tossing treats inside, but she just stretches out > so that her hind legs never go inside and retreives the treats.  I also put a > blanket that she has been sleeping on inside so that it might look like a > familiar bed.  That didn’t work either.  Can anyone help?  I don’t want her to > freeze!

Why is she not inside with you? Diane Blackman   http://www.dog-play.com  http://www.dog-play.com/TOTE.html

Response:

> I just got a dog from the Dumb Friends League.  She is a chow/husky mix. She > is very well behaved for the most part, though she has obviously been given > little training.

This poor dog has enough confusion in her life right now without adding sleeping cold and alone. Please do some investigative reading about the nature of pack animals, and why being banished alone outside is about the cruelest thing you can do to a dog. Also review WHY you wanted a dog to begin with. You two need to bond, and she needs to learn house rules. This is really very easy with the umbilical method. Attach the dog to you with a light leash about 10 feet or so long. Everywhere you go in the house, whatever you do, she goes with you. She sleeps in the floor next to your bed, as a pack member should. The added benefit to this way of acquainting yourself with a new dog is that you can keep an eye on her and see that she doesn’t get into trouble. She is in a major transition stage right now, and needs the love and security of a companion… YOU. — Toni www.irish-wolfhounds.com Click the "Update on Steve"

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I just got a dog from the Dumb Friends League.  She is a chow/husky mix. > She > is very well behaved for the most part, though she has obviously been > given > little training. > This poor dog has enough confusion in her life right now without adding > sleeping cold and alone. > Please do some investigative reading about the nature of pack animals, and > why being banished alone outside is about the cruelest thing you can do to a > dog. > Also review WHY you wanted a dog to begin with.

I don’t know whether the dog was adopted from the Denver Dumb Friends League or not, but the DDFL certainly doesn’t go to great lengths to discourage people from keeping pets outdoors: http://www.ddfl.org/behavior/winter2.htm Kristine & Oscar

Response:

concerned about rottweiller :(

Question:

>In this case… top breeder happens to mean a business that claims to be >the largest Kennel in the United States that also sells and ships dogs >around the world. There are about one hundred adult rottweillers there >(from different litters) having puppies at their times of the year. It >just so happens with that many dogs that there are litters most of the >year.

thats not a top breeder .. thats a puppymill .. you got taken buddy .. your dogs probably were out of standard, out of temperment, and genetically disease ridden .. on a side note my rott came from a top breeder .. one litter per year .. both german line parents fully checked for all diseases, shown and competed in shutzhund .. two+ year wait list .. trolling or ignorance .. i think ignorance is worse because at least trolls know the truth ..

Response:

Hello Anony Mous,

> By your message reply I am not sure whether to say you are a sub-level > human or someone’s smart dog who hacked onto his masters keyboard…

Sure, I can be insulting to people who abuse dogs. BUT YOU TAKE THE CAKE! HOWE can you insult a dog, by ever thinking a dog’s intelligence would allow him to think or talk like our friend k-9 kiddie? Best, Jerry.

Response:

Psst! cate knows ZIP about dogs. Jerry.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> In this case… top breeder happens to mean a business that claims to be > the largest Kennel in the United States that also sells and ships dogs > around the world. There are about one hundred adult rottweillers there > (from different litters) having puppies at their times of the year. It > just so happens with that many dogs that there are litters most of the > year. > Just in case you’re not a troll: > So by ‘top breeder’ you mean highest volume of output? That’s what’s > normally known as a puppy mill. > Please don’t spend $3000 (yikes!) on a dog that isn’t bred for betterment of > its breed. With a staggering 100 bitches producing litters per year, there > is no way that puppy mill is doing even the bare minimum of health testing > required to try to ensure the long-term health of the dogs it produces. > You could get the same quality in a dog (or just as likely higher quality) > by adopting from a shelter. Try www.petfinder.org to find a rottweiler in > need of rescue from a shelter. Or try breed rescue groups. I know zip about > rotts, but within 2 minutes have found numerous web sites dealing with rott > rescue. > Cate

Response:

> That is a top PUPPYMILL not a reputable breeder, they are the only > ones who would sell 3 puppies to a moron looking for guard dogs

If you would be more informed before you comment you would make yourself seem much more intelligent. The fact is the "breeder" I referred to (as I already commented in a reply …MORON) was said to be the largest kennel that only breeds rottweillers in the U.S.A. You may consder this breeder as an exception who regularly sells puppies to people looking for guard dogs…or pets…or house dogs…or family dogs.

Response:

I answered this comment yesterday. I am not able to conclude intelligence from the initial comment or your reply but it is possible to directly relate intelligence "or lack of" by not being able to follow a newsgroup message thread! > Ya a top breeder, now that’s funny. What top breeder has three puppies > available from different litters and sells them to some MORON looking > for guard dogs. >  Jesus are you stupid. You are raising a pack with no obedience > training who one day will break right thru your hillbilly fencing and > attack the people in the trailer next door. I can see the headlines > now "pack of Rottweilers kills children". Just what the breed needs > another goddam MORON who owns guard dogs.

No… GOD ARE YOU STUPID! I never said I was raising dogs with no obedience training and in fact (your’e SO STUPID) my message in this newsgroup was in fact to ask advice from users (who aren’t stupid) pertaining to training methods. The ages of my younger dogs still match appropriate levels of training they should have. They were leash trained after 3 attempts and after that they walk straight down at my side and do not strain the leash. My fencing is now being improved as I only purchased the home months ago. I already have relations with my neighbors and assure them I will take control and responsibility of my dogs and anything that happens. I will keep communication open with them if they have any concerns. My next door neighbor’s 16 year old daughter watched my dogs with delight for 2 weeks and the entire family considers them loving and gentle dogs. This was before I got the recent male. By your message reply I am not sure whether to say you are a sub-level human or someone’s smart dog who hacked onto his masters keyboard…

Response:

> In this case… top breeder happens to mean a business that claims to be > the largest Kennel in the United States that also sells and ships dogs > around the world. There are about one hundred adult rottweillers there > (from different litters) having puppies at their times of the year. It > just so happens with that many dogs that there are litters most of the > year.

Just in case you’re not a troll: So by ‘top breeder’ you mean highest volume of output? That’s what’s normally known as a puppy mill. Please don’t spend $3000 (yikes!) on a dog that isn’t bred for betterment of its breed. With a staggering 100 bitches producing litters per year, there is no way that puppy mill is doing even the bare minimum of health testing required to try to ensure the long-term health of the dogs it produces. You could get the same quality in a dog (or just as likely higher quality) by adopting from a shelter. Try www.petfinder.org to find a rottweiler in need of rescue from a shelter. Or try breed rescue groups. I know zip about rotts, but within 2 minutes have found numerous web sites dealing with rott rescue. Cate

Response:

>In this case… top breeder happens to mean a business that claims to be >the largest Kennel in the United States that also sells and ships dogs >around the world. There are about one hundred adult rottweillers there >(from different litters) having puppies at their times of the year. It >just so happens with that many dogs that there are litters most of the >year.

Another words a goddam puppymill that will sell to any MORON that has the money. Just as I thought, both YOU and your "breeder" are fucking MORONS

Response:

Hi Jerry, I am not trying to take sides for or against anyone here and I never meant to start any bad feelings in this newsgroup towards anyone (including you). As I said before I noticed what I perceived at first as a stand-off between you and the group and I am sorry to say I think I mis-judged you as being shallow. I appreciate your feelings here obviously I can see you are a compassionate understanding dog lover. I am not saying I agree with everything you say but I can relate to your feelings. I would like to apologize to the newsgroup as a whole for my "lack" of being descriptive enough in explaining my concern although I personally don’t think  some items relate enough to my issues to do into such detail on them. Maybe I should not have mentioned I had rotts before and got rid of them but the point was that I was familiar with them… not that I discard them like old newspapers. I asked for help here and appreciate every response I get and I appreciate yours as well. Thank you Jerry, – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Hello k-9 deb, > > I have owned guard dogs in the past including rottweillers. I had > to get > > rid of them due to a family crisis… > I know there are circumstances where people just can’t keep their > dogs, > but your choice of words ("get rid of") concerns me. > INDEED. Semantics are important to so many of our irksome rpdb > regulars. > Rotties are great dogs — no argument there. > What kind of "top breeder" has 3 litters on the ground at the same > time? > Most any breeder who has a demand for their dogs. Your standards do not > apply to others. Who the hell are you to criticize someone’s breeding > program? > The top breeders I’ve known > EXACTLY HOWE MANY ”TOP” BREEDERS DO YOU KNOW??? > might have 3 litters in a lifetime. > Then you don’t have the experience you’d like everyone to believe you > do… Or, you’re just talking through your hat. > Why did you decide on 3 dogs? Why not one or two or five? > What difference does that make? He probably bought two bitches and > their brother for breeding. This is DOG BEHAVIOR, not ”breeding > ethics." Why don’t you try to focus on the damn question? > > I kept noticing the male puppy was not very outgoing and I > > mentioned this to the breeder and asked if I could exchange the > dog. I > > felt terrible to do this but he had the resources to find it a fine > home > > later. I told the breeder I wanted a male dog that was more "perky" > for > > lack of a better expression. > Would more "aggressive" be a better expression? > Fair question, or is it? > > I got the perky-est dog he had. It was nine months old and I am a > little > > concerned by getting an older dog to start with. The male is quite > > outgoing and so I guess I got what I asked for. > This top breeder not only had 3 litters, but a nine month old too? > MOST breeders keep their stock until about nine months, when they’ll > make their final decision if they’re going to campaigne IT. > > Are there any suggestions from anyone how to ensure the dogs don’t > get > > into any trouble or get the neighbors fearing the dog will cause > > trouble? > I have lots of suggestions. > This ought to be FAT. > Make sure they are with you at all times until you are sure of their > training, their individual personalities and how they behave as a > group. > They sleep in the house, stay inside when you’re not home and only go > outside when you’re there to supervise. > That’s very nice that you’re gonna dictate other’s lifestyles, but the > question here is DOG TRAINING and BEHAVIOR, not FAMILY CIRCLE. > Keep your own PREFERENCES out of this. > Find a trainer NOW to work with you all the way through until they > are at > least 3 years old. > So, k-9 deb. What happens at three years old? > You have a higher than average risk of one of the females injuring > the > other when they get to be adolescents and that "top bitch" position > becomes a single minded goal for both of them. > Says the guy who told you the dogs will magically finish training at > three??? > If one is much more dominant than the other, they might be OK. > Says WHO? > If they are temperamentally similar you’re going to have trouble. > Says WHO? > Lemme tell ya sumthin. These "issues" you’re talking about exist ONLY > in the minds of SMALL THINKERS, the kind of THINKERS who jerk and choke > dogs on pronged choke collars, and shock, pinch their ears and toes and > testicles, and beat dogs with sticks to MOTIVATE them, and HANG dogs to > REHABILITATE them afer jerking and choking them. > Take them everywhere you can as often as you can, individually and in > a > group. These dogs are going to have to have a LOT of contact with > people > and other dogs. They need to meet new people every day! If they do > not get > a lot of socialization they are going to be difficult enough to > handle as > individuals and impossible to take anywhere as a group. > Sometimes that’s true. Sometimes that’s irrelevant. But MOSTLY, this is > all part of your mind boggle. > Teach them, early on and forever, that they are NOT in charge of > security. > So, now you’re an expert on protection dogs? HOWE many years have you > been training protection dogs for people? > They are the early warning system only. > Is that so? You mean they should be alarm dogs, like a nice Chihuahua? > They can tell YOU when there is something that YOU need to check out > and handle. They do NOT get to handle the situation. If you encourage > their guarding capabilities you are a gazillion times more likely to > face > losing your property in a lawsuit than you are to actually need > protection. > Is that so??? You are a statistician for an insurance company? > Three Rottweilers, acting as a pack, that are not under total voice > control of their owner are a liability to you and a danger to your > community. > Could be. Same could be for three Chi’s. BIG DEAL. Why are you so > AFRAID of dogs? > Never underestimate the power of illusion. > THAT’S WHY I’M HERE. Don’t worry about a thing, little debbie. > A stranger comes onto your property and you say "Dogs, down" without > raising your voice. All three dogs hit the deck and keep their eyes > on you > waiting for the next command. You know, and the dogs know that the > next > command is likely to be "come get your cookies for being such good > dogs", > but the stranger will assume that it’s "go for his throat". > O.K. Know what you can do with that cookie? > The stranger knows nothing other than the dogs are very well trained. > The > stranger, who was having bad thoughts, decides he has the wrong > house. > Nice fantasy. Are you a criminologist? > Get them into group class asap, even if it means going 3 nights a > week so > all three can go. > You mena the kind of group class where everyone goes around and around > and around, jerking their dog on pronged and choke collars to heel and > sit and learn the fine art of DOMINATION? > Call a kennel club in your  area and find the Rottie club, too. > You’re going > to need lots of help, support and encouragement in the months to > come. > One adolescent Rottie can be a training challenge, three of them can > be > overwhelming if you don’t have access to expert help. > Yes. Expert help. > Good luck, > Deb* > It’s clear you don’t know much about protection training, security, or > breeding. > But you do weave a nice Family Circle story. Give them a call, and GET > THE HELL OUT OF THIS BUSINESS. > You’re another janet boss. Tell us more about your TEN YEAR behavior > modification plan for aggressive dogs, PLEASE!!! > Your pal, Jerry.

Response:

>Quote: >went to a top breeder and got 2 females and a male (all from seperate >litters) >What’s a "top breeder" doing with three litters at the same time? >Jane Webb > & Moonpie & Raisin Pie

That is a top PUPPYMILL not a reputable breeder, they are the only ones who would sell 3 puppies to a moron looking for guard dogs

Response:

I have never needed to explain things like this in such detail (that get off the topic and are not relevant) In this case… top breeder happens to mean a business that claims to be the largest Kennel in the United States that also sells and ships dogs around the world. There are about one hundred adult rottweillers there (from different litters) having puppies at their times of the year. It just so happens with that many dogs that there are litters most of the year. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Quote: > went to a top breeder and got 2 females and a male (all from seperate > litters) > What’s a "top breeder" doing with three litters at the same time? > Jane Webb >  & Moonpie & Raisin Pie

Response:

Your questions not answered were addressed as others seem to have asked the same question… > I know there are circumstances where people just can’t keep their dogs, but your choice of words ("get rid of") concerns > me.

answered already >What kind of "top breeder" has 3 litters on the ground at the same time? The top breeders I’ve known might have 3 > litters in a lifetime.

answered > Why did you decide on 3 dogs? Why not one or two or five?

I wanted a male and a female first of all and thought  3 would be a better number. I could tolerate the extra cost at 2 versus 3 but 5 is a bit more than necessary to watch a 5 acre home. > I kept noticing the male puppy was not very outgoing and I > mentioned this to the breeder and asked if I could exchange the dog. I > felt terrible to do this but he had the resources to find it a fine home > later. I told the breeder I wanted a male dog that was more "perky" for > lack of a better expression. > Would more "aggressive" be a better expression?

How about vicious or man-killer or blood-thirsty mangler? It seems you want to take over here. Why don’t you finish the story as you see fit? There is always more than one way to say something. The fact is the male dog has a stereotypical profile of a disposition that is apparant in all animals and people and this dog did not fit the profile. > I got the perky-est dog he had. It was nine months old and I am a little > concerned by getting an older dog to start with. The male is quite > outgoing and so I guess I got what I asked for. > This top breeder not only had 3 litters, but a nine month old too?

With this kennel they price all dogs according to how they determine value. Many dogs were priced at about 3000-5000 dollars. This one in question was priced at 3500 dollars. I was told those dogs don’t get sold as fast as others and it just so happened they were abundant at the time. In addition the breeder told me he would never again aquire a dog as a small puppy saying it would be better to start with a bit older dog. It sounded ok at the time and I could certainly judge disposition then but I can see this takes more care to train a larger size dog. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I have lots of suggestions. > Make sure they are with you at all times until you are sure of their training, their individual personalities and how > they behave as a group. > They sleep in the house, stay inside when you’re not home and only go outside when you’re there to supervise. > Find a trainer NOW to work with you all the way through until they are at least 3 years old. You have a higher than > average risk of one of the females injuring the other when they get to be adolescents and that "top bitch" position > becomes a single minded goal for both of them. If one is much more dominant than the other, they might be OK. If they > are temperamentally similar you’re going to have trouble. > Take them everywhere you can as often as you can, individually and in a group. These dogs are going to have to have a > LOT of contact with people and other dogs. They need to meet new people every day! If they do not get a lot of > socialization they are going to be difficult enough to handle as individuals and impossible to take anywhere as a group. > Teach them, early on and forever, that they are NOT in charge of security. They are the early warning system only. They > can tell YOU when there is something that YOU need to check out and handle. They do NOT get to handle the situation. If > you encourage their guarding capabilities you are a gazillion times more likely to face losing your property in a > lawsuit than you are to actually need protection. Three Rottweilers, acting as a pack, that are not under total voice > control of their owner are a liability to you and a danger to your community. > Never underestimate the power of illusion. > A stranger comes onto your property and you say "Dogs, down" without raising your voice. All three dogs hit the deck and > keep their eyes on you waiting for the next command. You know, and the dogs know that the next command is likely to be > "come get your cookies for being such good dogs", but the stranger will assume that it’s "go for his throat". The > stranger knows nothing other than the dogs are very well trained. The stranger, who was having bad thoughts, decides he > has the wrong house. > Get them into group class asap, even if it means going 3 nights a week so all three can go. Call a kennel club in your > area and find the Rottie club, too. You’re going to need lots of help, support and encouragement in the months to come. > One adolescent Rottie can be a training challenge, three of them can be overwhelming if you don’t have access to expert > help. > Good luck, > Deb*

Thank you,

Response:

>Hi, >I have owned guard dogs in the past including rottweillers. I had to get >rid of them due to a family crisis… >Now I have a house on 5 acres and want the security again of >protection-type dogs and made a personal decision to choose rottweillers >(which I still very much love) >I went to a top breeder and got 2 females and a male (all from seperate >litters). I kept noticing the male puppy was not very outgoing and I >mentioned this to the breeder and asked if I could exchange the dog. I >felt terrible to do this but he had the resources to find it a fine home >later. I told the breeder I wanted a male dog that was more "perky" for >lack of a better expression.

Ya a top breeder, now that’s funny. What top breeder has three puppies available from different litters and sells them to some MORON looking for guard dogs. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->I got the perky-est dog he had. It was nine months old and I am a little >concerned by getting an older dog to start with. The male is quite >outgoing and so I guess I got what I asked for. >I do think Rottweillers are loving animals and level-headed as long as >they are raised correctly. It goes without saying they are in the >classification of guard dogs and so they do have protective instincts (I >know). >Are there any suggestions from anyone how to ensure the dogs don’t get >into any trouble or get the neighbors fearing the dog will cause >trouble? >I only had the dog for a day now and it does wag it’s tail when I speak >kindly to it and give it attention. I already incorporated an electric >fence in my back yard as it seemed cost-effective and plan to make an >area of about a third of my property fenced for them (with wire mesh and >electric fencing). >Thanks,

 Jesus are you stupid. You are raising a pack with no obedience training who one day will break right thru your hillbilly fencing and attack the people in the trailer next door. I can see the headlines now "pack of Rottweilers kills children". Just what the breed needs another goddam MORON who owns guard dogs.

Response:

Hello k-9 deb, > I have owned guard dogs in the past including rottweillers. I had to get > rid of them due to a family crisis… > I know there are circumstances where people just can’t keep their dogs, > but your choice of words ("get rid of") concerns me.

INDEED. Semantics are important to so many of our irksome rpdb regulars. > Rotties are great dogs — no argument there. > What kind of "top breeder" has 3 litters on the ground at the same

time? Most any breeder who has a demand for their dogs. Your standards do not apply to others. Who the hell are you to criticize someone’s breeding program? > The top breeders I’ve known

EXACTLY HOWE MANY ”TOP” BREEDERS DO YOU KNOW??? > might have 3 litters in a lifetime.

Then you don’t have the experience you’d like everyone to believe you do… Or, you’re just talking through your hat. > Why did you decide on 3 dogs? Why not one or two or five?

What difference does that make? He probably bought two bitches and their brother for breeding. This is DOG BEHAVIOR, not ”breeding ethics." Why don’t you try to focus on the damn question? > I kept noticing the male puppy was not very outgoing and I > mentioned this to the breeder and asked if I could exchange the dog. I > felt terrible to do this but he had the resources to find it a fine home > later. I told the breeder I wanted a male dog that was more "perky" for > lack of a better expression. > Would more "aggressive" be a better expression?

Fair question, or is it? > I got the perky-est dog he had. It was nine months old and I am a little > concerned by getting an older dog to start with. The male is quite > outgoing and so I guess I got what I asked for. > This top breeder not only had 3 litters, but a nine month old too?

MOST breeders keep their stock until about nine months, when they’ll make their final decision if they’re going to campaigne IT. > Are there any suggestions from anyone how to ensure the dogs don’t get > into any trouble or get the neighbors fearing the dog will cause > trouble? > I have lots of suggestions.

This ought to be FAT. > Make sure they are with you at all times until you are sure of their > training, their individual personalities and how they behave as a group. > They sleep in the house, stay inside when you’re not home and only go > outside when you’re there to supervise.

That’s very nice that you’re gonna dictate other’s lifestyles, but the question here is DOG TRAINING and BEHAVIOR, not FAMILY CIRCLE. Keep your own PREFERENCES out of this. > Find a trainer NOW to work with you all the way through until they are at > least 3 years old.

So, k-9 deb. What happens at three years old? > You have a higher than average risk of one of the females injuring the > other when they get to be adolescents and that "top bitch" position > becomes a single minded goal for both of them.

Says the guy who told you the dogs will magically finish training at three??? > If one is much more dominant than the other, they might be OK.

Says WHO? > If they are temperamentally similar you’re going to have trouble.

Says WHO? Lemme tell ya sumthin. These "issues" you’re talking about exist ONLY in the minds of SMALL THINKERS, the kind of THINKERS who jerk and choke dogs on pronged choke collars, and shock, pinch their ears and toes and testicles, and beat dogs with sticks to MOTIVATE them, and HANG dogs to REHABILITATE them afer jerking and choking them. > Take them everywhere you can as often as you can, individually and in a > group. These dogs are going to have to have a LOT of contact with people > and other dogs. They need to meet new people every day! If they do not get > a lot of socialization they are going to be difficult enough to handle as > individuals and impossible to take anywhere as a group.

Sometimes that’s true. Sometimes that’s irrelevant. But MOSTLY, this is all part of your mind boggle. > Teach them, early on and forever, that they are NOT in charge of

security. So, now you’re an expert on protection dogs? HOWE many years have you been training protection dogs for people? > They are the early warning system only.

Is that so? You mean they should be alarm dogs, like a nice Chihuahua? > They can tell YOU when there is something that YOU need to check out > and handle. They do NOT get to handle the situation. If you encourage > their guarding capabilities you are a gazillion times more likely to face > losing your property in a lawsuit than you are to actually need

protection. Is that so??? You are a statistician for an insurance company? > Three Rottweilers, acting as a pack, that are not under total voice > control of their owner are a liability to you and a danger to your > community.

Could be. Same could be for three Chi’s. BIG DEAL. Why are you so AFRAID of dogs? > Never underestimate the power of illusion.

THAT’S WHY I’M HERE. Don’t worry about a thing, little debbie. > A stranger comes onto your property and you say "Dogs, down" without > raising your voice. All three dogs hit the deck and keep their eyes on you > waiting for the next command. You know, and the dogs know that the next > command is likely to be "come get your cookies for being such good dogs", > but the stranger will assume that it’s "go for his throat".

O.K. Know what you can do with that cookie? > The stranger knows nothing other than the dogs are very well trained. The > stranger, who was having bad thoughts, decides he has the wrong

house. Nice fantasy. Are you a criminologist? > Get them into group class asap, even if it means going 3 nights a week so > all three can go.

You mena the kind of group class where everyone goes around and around and around, jerking their dog on pronged and choke collars to heel and sit and learn the fine art of DOMINATION? > Call a kennel club in your  area and find the Rottie club, too. You’re going > to need lots of help, support and encouragement in the months to come. > One adolescent Rottie can be a training challenge, three of them can be > overwhelming if you don’t have access to expert help.

Yes. Expert help. > Good luck, > Deb*

It’s clear you don’t know much about protection training, security, or breeding. But you do weave a nice Family Circle story. Give them a call, and GET THE HELL OUT OF THIS BUSINESS. You’re another janet boss. Tell us more about your TEN YEAR behavior modification plan for aggressive dogs, PLEASE!!! Your pal, Jerry.

Response:

> I may have used the wrong term here… > By electric fence I meant the kind used for cattle.

Aha – Sorry, I had assumed you meant the buried systems such as Invisible Fence. Lynn K.

Response:

Quote: went to a top breeder and got 2 females and a male (all from seperate litters) What’s a "top breeder" doing with three litters at the same time? Jane Webb  & Moonpie & Raisin Pie

Response:

> I have owned guard dogs in the past including rottweillers. I had to get > rid of them due to a family crisis…

I know there are circumstances where people just can’t keep their dogs, but your choice of words ("get rid of") concerns me. > Now I have a house on 5 acres and want the security again of > protection-type dogs and made a personal decision to choose rottweillers > (which I still very much love)

Rotties are great dogs — no argument there. > I went to a top breeder and got 2 females and a male (all from seperate > litters).

What kind of "top breeder" has 3 litters on the ground at the same time? The top breeders I’ve known might have 3 litters in a lifetime. Why did you decide on 3 dogs? Why not one or two or five? > I kept noticing the male puppy was not very outgoing and I > mentioned this to the breeder and asked if I could exchange the dog. I > felt terrible to do this but he had the resources to find it a fine home > later. I told the breeder I wanted a male dog that was more "perky" for > lack of a better expression.

Would more "aggressive" be a better expression? > I got the perky-est dog he had. It was nine months old and I am a little > concerned by getting an older dog to start with. The male is quite > outgoing and so I guess I got what I asked for.

This top breeder not only had 3 litters, but a nine month old too? > I do think Rottweillers are loving animals and level-headed as long as > they are raised correctly. It goes without saying they are in the > classification of guard dogs and so they do have protective instincts (I > know). > Are there any suggestions from anyone how to ensure the dogs don’t get > into any trouble or get the neighbors fearing the dog will cause > trouble?

I have lots of suggestions. Make sure they are with you at all times until you are sure of their training, their individual personalities and how they behave as a group. They sleep in the house, stay inside when you’re not home and only go outside when you’re there to supervise. Find a trainer NOW to work with you all the way through until they are at least 3 years old. You have a higher than average risk of one of the females injuring the other when they get to be adolescents and that "top bitch" position becomes a single minded goal for both of them. If one is much more dominant than the other, they might be OK. If they are temperamentally similar you’re going to have trouble. Take them everywhere you can as often as you can, individually and in a group. These dogs are going to have to have a LOT of contact with people and other dogs. They need to meet new people every day! If they do not get a lot of socialization they are going to be difficult enough to handle as individuals and impossible to take anywhere as a group. Teach them, early on and forever, that they are NOT in charge of security. They are the early warning system only. They can tell YOU when there is something that YOU need to check out and handle. They do NOT get to handle the situation. If you encourage their guarding capabilities you are a gazillion times more likely to face losing your property in a lawsuit than you are to actually need protection. Three Rottweilers, acting as a pack, that are not under total voice control of their owner are a liability to you and a danger to your community.   Never underestimate the power of illusion. A stranger comes onto your property and you say "Dogs, down" without raising your voice. All three dogs hit the deck and keep their eyes on you waiting for the next command. You know, and the dogs know that the next command is likely to be "come get your cookies for being such good dogs", but the stranger will assume that it’s "go for his throat". The stranger knows nothing other than the dogs are very well trained. The stranger, who was having bad thoughts, decides he has the wrong house. Get them into group class asap, even if it means going 3 nights a week so all three can go. Call a kennel club in your area and find the Rottie club, too. You’re going to need lots of help, support and encouragement in the months to come. One adolescent Rottie can be a training challenge, three of them can be overwhelming if you don’t have access to expert help. Good luck, Deb*

Response:

Stop by anytime Jerry! (please) – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Hello genius, > Go back and look again. It says FREE TRAINING MANUAL. > Furthermore, that post was addressed to lynn, not you. > Enjoy your shock fence and you dog behavior problems. Jerry. > You know… "Jerry"… > Before I posted to this group for the first time today I happened to > have > read a few interesting messages to and from you. I got the idea you > were > being attacked and driven out of this newsgroup and I was curious but > wasn’t able to find out why. > I read your reply to me and at first glance thought it might be a > useful > link you gave me so I added it to my bookmarks. It wasn’t until I > read the > reply to you from Ed Williams (thanks Ed) who said all you gave me > was a > solicitation. > I then went to your URL and looked from top to bottom at your link > which > appears to be some form of containment device that you seem to claim > stops > many problems other than containment. Not knowing anymore about you I > am > still able to say in the least that you had nothing to contribute to > my > request for help and in fact sidetracked the topic in the hopes of > you > gaining from this. I wouldn’t mind what you did if you would have > been > honest about it saying something appropriate like, "Well, I don’t > know a > thing about your problem but why don’t you buy one of my products?" > I specifically went into detail about the sort of fencing I have that > includes enough to contain an animal from a prarie dog to a large > bull. > Is this how you normally make friends and are you now as "not > surprised" as > I am why this group resents you? > > > > Are there any suggestions from anyone how to ensure the dogs > don’t > > get > > > > into any trouble or get the neighbors fearing the dog will > cause > > > > trouble? > > > Yes.  Train them to be good citizens and neighbors and let your > > > neighbors > > > see them behaving well at all times :-)  Seriously, you’ve taken > on > > > quite a task in training 3 young dogs simultaneously.  It is > going to > > > take a good bit of your time and effort.  The opinion your > neighbors > > > form of the dogs is going to be based on how well you manage them > and > > > what they observe of their behavior.  Obviously, you can’t allow > the > > > dogs to disrupt the neighborhood by barking or roaming while you > are > > > getting them trained.  I’d also recommend that you never leave > them > > > in the yard unattended, particularly with an electric fence.  You > may > > > feel they are safely contained, but your neighbors will probably > not > > > be as comfortable as they would be with standard visible fencing. > > > Lynn K. > > Correct, lyinglynn. > > And the best source for the information she needs is available for > free > > at http://www.doggydoright.com

Response:

Hello genius, Go back and look again. It says FREE TRAINING MANUAL. Furthermore, that post was addressed to lynn, not you. Enjoy your shock fence and you dog behavior problems. Jerry.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> You know… "Jerry"… > Before I posted to this group for the first time today I happened to have > read a few interesting messages to and from you. I got the idea you were > being attacked and driven out of this newsgroup and I was curious but > wasn’t able to find out why. > I read your reply to me and at first glance thought it might be a useful > link you gave me so I added it to my bookmarks. It wasn’t until I read the > reply to you from Ed Williams (thanks Ed) who said all you gave me was a > solicitation. > I then went to your URL and looked from top to bottom at your link which > appears to be some form of containment device that you seem to claim stops > many problems other than containment. Not knowing anymore about you I am > still able to say in the least that you had nothing to contribute to my > request for help and in fact sidetracked the topic in the hopes of you > gaining from this. I wouldn’t mind what you did if you would have been > honest about it saying something appropriate like, "Well, I don’t know a > thing about your problem but why don’t you buy one of my products?" > I specifically went into detail about the sort of fencing I have that > includes enough to contain an animal from a prarie dog to a large bull. > Is this how you normally make friends and are you now as "not surprised" as > I am why this group resents you? > > > Are there any suggestions from anyone how to ensure the dogs don’t > get > > > into any trouble or get the neighbors fearing the dog will cause > > > trouble? > > Yes.  Train them to be good citizens and neighbors and let your > > neighbors > > see them behaving well at all times :-)  Seriously, you’ve taken on > > quite a task in training 3 young dogs simultaneously.  It is going to > > take a good bit of your time and effort.  The opinion your neighbors > > form of the dogs is going to be based on how well you manage them and > > what they observe of their behavior.  Obviously, you can’t allow the > > dogs to disrupt the neighborhood by barking or roaming while you are > > getting them trained.  I’d also recommend that you never leave them > > in the yard unattended, particularly with an electric fence.  You may > > feel they are safely contained, but your neighbors will probably not > > be as comfortable as they would be with standard visible fencing. > > Lynn K. > Correct, lyinglynn. > And the best source for the information she needs is available for free > at http://www.doggydoright.com

Response:

I have owned guard dogs in the past including rottweillers. I had to get rid of them due to a family crisis… I think the message was very very clear as I pasted it to refer to… I usually avoid sharing my (more) personal life with "you" and the rest of the world but…you seem to have a need to know more so… I was married and it was talked about and agreed that we would get a couple rottweillers. We had the dogs for about a year and I loved them. My "ex" either could not relate a rottweiller puppy to a full-grown one or for some other reason later couldn’t accept the idea that they were larger than she wanted them to be. About that time my marriage failed but during the usual bad part (want me to expand on this for you?) of the relationship and the breakup and my two daughters that I don’t see anymore… the dogs were sold (not eaten or tortured). I felt bad about "getting rid of them" but moved into an apartment so that I could afford paying child support and then not being able to see my two daughters. Have I quite explained this enough for you? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Hi, >I have owned guard dogs in the past including rottweillers. I had to get >rid of them > "rid of"?

Response:

You know… "Jerry"… Before I posted to this group for the first time today I happened to have read a few interesting messages to and from you. I got the idea you were being attacked and driven out of this newsgroup and I was curious but wasn’t able to find out why. I read your reply to me and at first glance thought it might be a useful link you gave me so I added it to my bookmarks. It wasn’t until I read the reply to you from Ed Williams (thanks Ed) who said all you gave me was a solicitation. I then went to your URL and looked from top to bottom at your link which appears to be some form of containment device that you seem to claim stops many problems other than containment. Not knowing anymore about you I am still able to say in the least that you had nothing to contribute to my request for help and in fact sidetracked the topic in the hopes of you gaining from this. I wouldn’t mind what you did if you would have been honest about it saying something appropriate like, "Well, I don’t know a thing about your problem but why don’t you buy one of my products?" I specifically went into detail about the sort of fencing I have that includes enough to contain an animal from a prarie dog to a large bull. Is this how you normally make friends and are you now as "not surprised" as I am why this group resents you? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> > Are there any suggestions from anyone how to ensure the dogs don’t > get > > into any trouble or get the neighbors fearing the dog will cause > > trouble? > Yes.  Train them to be good citizens and neighbors and let your > neighbors > see them behaving well at all times :-)  Seriously, you’ve taken on > quite a task in training 3 young dogs simultaneously.  It is going to > take a good bit of your time and effort.  The opinion your neighbors > form of the dogs is going to be based on how well you manage them and > what they observe of their behavior.  Obviously, you can’t allow the > dogs to disrupt the neighborhood by barking or roaming while you are > getting them trained.  I’d also recommend that you never leave them > in the yard unattended, particularly with an electric fence.  You may > feel they are safely contained, but your neighbors will probably not > be as comfortable as they would be with standard visible fencing. > Lynn K. > Correct, lyinglynn. > And the best source for the information she needs is available for free > at http://www.doggydoright.com

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> > Are there any suggestions from anyone how to ensure the dogs don’t > get > > into any trouble or get the neighbors fearing the dog will cause > > trouble? > Yes.  Train them to be good citizens and neighbors and let your > neighbors > see them behaving well at all times :-)  Seriously, you’ve taken on > quite a task in training 3 young dogs simultaneously.  It is going to > take a good bit of your time and effort.  The opinion your neighbors > form of the dogs is going to be based on how well you manage them and > what they observe of their behavior.  Obviously, you can’t allow the > dogs to disrupt the neighborhood by barking or roaming while you are > getting them trained.  I’d also recommend that you never leave them > in the yard unattended, particularly with an electric fence.  You may > feel they are safely contained, but your neighbors will probably not > be as comfortable as they would be with standard visible fencing. > Lynn K. > Correct, lyinglynn. > And the best source for the information she needs is available for free > at http://www.doggydoright.com

Wrong jer, That is the link to the sales pitch for your dubious $100 electronic training device. Saying it is for the free information is the bait for your sleazy "bait & switch" scam. (A purchaser of jerry’s $100 training device has posted a review at: If you were an honest person you would really link to the free training manual download page. But you aren’t so you don’t. EdW http://Petloss.com

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Are there any suggestions from anyone how to ensure the dogs don’t get > into any trouble or get the neighbors fearing the dog will cause > trouble? > Yes.  Train them to be good citizens and neighbors and let your > neighbors > see them behaving well at all times :-)  Seriously, you’ve taken on > quite a task in training 3 young dogs simultaneously.  It is going to > take a good bit of your time and effort.  The opinion your neighbors > form of the dogs is going to be based on how well you manage them and > what they observe of their behavior.  Obviously, you can’t allow the > dogs to disrupt the neighborhood by barking or roaming while you are > getting them trained.  I’d also recommend that you never leave them > in the yard unattended, particularly with an electric fence.  You may > feel they are safely contained, but your neighbors will probably not > be as comfortable as they would be with standard visible fencing. > Lynn K.

Correct, lyinglynn. And the best source for the information she needs is available for free at http://www.doggydoright.com

Response:

Hi, I have owned guard dogs in the past including rottweillers. I had to get rid of them due to a family crisis… Now I have a house on 5 acres and want the security again of protection-type dogs and made a personal decision to choose rottweillers (which I still very much love) I went to a top breeder and got 2 females and a male (all from seperate litters). I kept noticing the male puppy was not very outgoing and I mentioned this to the breeder and asked if I could exchange the dog. I felt terrible to do this but he had the resources to find it a fine home later. I told the breeder I wanted a male dog that was more "perky" for lack of a better expression. I got the perky-est dog he had. It was nine months old and I am a little concerned by getting an older dog to start with. The male is quite outgoing and so I guess I got what I asked for. I do think Rottweillers are loving animals and level-headed as long as they are raised correctly. It goes without saying they are in the classification of guard dogs and so they do have protective instincts (I know). Are there any suggestions from anyone how to ensure the dogs don’t get into any trouble or get the neighbors fearing the dog will cause trouble? I only had the dog for a day now and it does wag it’s tail when I speak kindly to it and give it attention. I already incorporated an electric fence in my back yard as it seemed cost-effective and plan to make an area of about a third of my property fenced for them (with wire mesh and electric fencing). Thanks,

Response:

> Are there any suggestions from anyone how to ensure the dogs don’t get > into any trouble or get the neighbors fearing the dog will cause > trouble?

Yes.  Train them to be good citizens and neighbors and let your neighbors see them behaving well at all times :-)  Seriously, you’ve taken on quite a task in training 3 young dogs simultaneously.  It is going to take a good bit of your time and effort.  The opinion your neighbors form of the dogs is going to be based on how well you manage them and what they observe of their behavior.  Obviously, you can’t allow the dogs to disrupt the neighborhood by barking or roaming while you are getting them trained.  I’d also recommend that you never leave them in the yard unattended, particularly with an electric fence.  You may feel they are safely contained, but your neighbors will probably not be as comfortable as they would be with standard visible fencing. Lynn K.

Response:

I may have used the wrong term here… By electric fence I meant the kind used for cattle. I do (in addition) have it mounted on a standard mesh fence. I know it might seem mean but after they learned about twice none of the dogs came within a foot of the the (3) hot wires. I mowed the lawn and the mower got tangled in it and I let go of the mower and used a garden hose to get the hot wire off before proceeding. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Are there any suggestions from anyone how to ensure the dogs don’t get > into any trouble or get the neighbors fearing the dog will cause > trouble? > Yes.  Train them to be good citizens and neighbors and let your > neighbors > see them behaving well at all times :-)  Seriously, you’ve taken on > quite a task in training 3 young dogs simultaneously.  It is going to > take a good bit of your time and effort.  The opinion your neighbors > form of the dogs is going to be based on how well you manage them and > what they observe of their behavior.  Obviously, you can’t allow the > dogs to disrupt the neighborhood by barking or roaming while you are > getting them trained.  I’d also recommend that you never leave them > in the yard unattended, particularly with an electric fence.  You may > feel they are safely contained, but your neighbors will probably not > be as comfortable as they would be with standard visible fencing. > Lynn K.

Response: