Question:

We have a new puppy (about 2.5 to 3 months old) and have not previously had a dog. It is a Bijon-Shizu cross and is very small and cute BUT IT PLOPS AND PEES EVERYWHERE ESPECIALLY WHEN WE’RE NOT LOOKING!!! Any suggestions? We have a puppy-training book that says to set out newspapers or a mat in a familiar spot, and when the pup makes a mistake to firmly say NO and put the pup on the mat. Guess what? After 3 weeks there is zero progress. We use a purchased mat, plastic on the bottom and some sort of absorbent material on top that is supposed to have a nature smell. You can sit there with the dog for half an hour watching it – literally – waiting for it to sneak a plop, but nothing happens. So you give up and go do dishes. You turn around 1.5 seconds later and the dog is plopping happily  behind a chair or around the corner on the linoleum. It seemed to me that she wanted some privacy because she always goes around a corner or behind something. So yesterday we put her in a big computer-screen box that she couldn’t get out of, and she immediately pee’d, then wanted out. Later we plunked her in again and she immediately plopped big-time, then wanted out. So now we have made a kind of cardboard wall around her mat hoping she will feel comfortable plopping there. But instead she sometimes lies down there and wants to nap. This is very gross! I am getting dog-unhappy very quick. I realize it is a big responsibility to have a dog, but I at least want to observe some smidgeon of progress. A work associate says to shove the dogs face in it and whack it with a newspaper! He says it worked for them – but I could never do that to an animal. Instead I am looking for intelligent suggestions on how to firmly but decently train her. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance, Micer

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> We have a new puppy (about 2.5 to 3 months old) and have not previously had > a dog. It is a Bijon-Shizu cross and is very small and cute BUT IT PLOPS AND > PEES EVERYWHERE ESPECIALLY WHEN WE’RE NOT LOOKING!!! > Any suggestions? We have a puppy-training book that says to set out > newspapers or a mat in a familiar spot, and when the pup makes a mistake to > firmly say NO and put the pup on the mat. > Guess what? After 3 weeks there is zero progress. We use a purchased mat, > plastic on the bottom and some sort of absorbent material on top that is > supposed to have a nature smell. You can sit there with the dog for half an > hour watching it – literally – waiting for it to sneak a plop, but nothing > happens. So you give up and go do dishes. You turn around 1.5 seconds later > and the dog is plopping happily  behind a chair or around the corner on the > linoleum. > It seemed to me that she wanted some privacy because she always goes around > a corner or behind something. So yesterday we put her in a big > computer-screen box that she couldn’t get out of, and she immediately pee’d, > then wanted out. Later we plunked her in again and she immediately plopped > big-time, then wanted out. So now we have made a kind of cardboard wall > around her mat hoping she will feel comfortable plopping there. But instead > she sometimes lies down there and wants to nap. > This is very gross! I am getting dog-unhappy very quick. I realize it is a > big responsibility to have a dog, but I at least want to observe some > smidgeon of progress. A work associate says to shove the dogs face in it and > whack it with a newspaper! He says it worked for them – but I could never do > that to an animal. Instead I am looking for intelligent suggestions on how > to firmly but decently train her. > Any suggestions? > Thanks in advance, > Micer

HOUSEBREAKING The more you try to "housebreak" her, the more she will do it, and you will never get it done. Here are directions that will quickly get you in good shape with her, but you must follow the directions exactly. Part of the solution is to teach the dog to relieve himself on command, so that the dog knows the purpose of his trip outside, and that he’s got two minutes to relieve himself. That can be done in a couple of days, with a determined effort to supervise and walk the dog as needed when appropriate breaks are necessary, or when the dog shows signs that he needs to go out. Two minutes of standing in one appropriate break area, without walking or talking (which would will only distract the dog.) The request to take a break, should be asked, and if the dog sniffs the ground he should be praised. If he looks around at the birds or other distractions, a second request to take a break should be given. If he sniffs the ground he should be told he’s a good boy,if not, he should elapse the two minutes without walking around and return inside. If he did not relieve himself, constant supervision will be necessary until the dog again shows signs of needing to go. When that happens, it may only be five minutes after having just been out, he should be offered another break, and the same procedure should follow. Two minutes, and that’s it. No more than two requests to relieve himself, and no unnecessary walking. He should be handled on a six foot lead, to prevent hem from wandering around, and getting distracted from his task. You may not have just a housebreaking problem, but also a behavior problem. Every time you react to your dog’s housebreaking mistake, you are reinforcing it as a negative attention getting device. Here’s what you need to do to end your dog’s ability to pull your chain: The behavior is being reinforced when you confront the dog about the behavior. This becomes a vicious cycle, the punishment or scolding only create more stress and anxiety, which may cause other behavior problems as a replacement, even though confronting the dog did seem to "work." Obviously, confronting the dog hasn’t worked, and that should not have been the recommended method to deal with this, or any behavior or housebreaking problem. Keeping the lead on you dog while you go about the house is often recommended, and might occasionally work. You can’t just tie a dog on your belt, and expect him to act like a key chain. The only time the dog should be on lead with you, is when the dog is properly on command. Otherwise, the restriction will cause stress and further promote other behavior problems. How can you deal with the dog tied to you, if you haven’t learned proper lead handling techniques? The pup isn’t a sack of sand, that can be dragged around and dropped anywhere you put it.  Any pulling on the dog’s collar will cause out of control behavior. It’s called the opposition reflex. Now, how do you deal with this? It’s real simple, but you have to not let the dog see your reaction, or he’ll still be "rewarded" for the crime. Ignore the incident. Walk right past the "mistake." It wasn’t a mistake, and you can’t call your physical or verbal attention into the problem without creating more difficulty for yourself. Prearrange a soda can with six pennies in it, in a convenient central location. The can must be picked up silently and unobtrusively, and as you casually, in the presence of the dog, walk by the "dirty deed," you should just ask, "what’s that?" as you subtly drop the can next to the spot, without saying ANYTHING further. Continue doing something else for a moment, and ask the pup if he’d like to do something, like go outside, or anything to get him out of the way, so that you may clean the spot and retrieve the can without him observing and hearing you cuss under your breath about the mess and extra work. When the dog returns to that room with you, he’s going to look at the spot, and look back up at you. You must tell him he is a good boy, and sound like you really mean it. This will blow the dog’s mind, and will render his negative attention getting device that he’s using against you, useless. With a couple of examples of this, the dog will begin to search for other ways to command your attention. Hopefully, he will pick a positive attention getting device. All dogs need attention. What you need to do, is give him that attention prior to the dog getting into trouble. Any time the dog makes even brief eye contact, or glances out of the corner of his eye at you, that moment requires praise, non physical, unless the dog is right by your side.

Response:

cute BUT IT PLOPS AND > PEES EVERYWHERE ESPECIALLY WHEN WE’RE NOT LOOKING!!!

Bingo…the moral of the story is to not let it go anywhere when you aren’t looking.  My pups are either a) in their crates; b) leashed to my belt; c) out in the yard; or d) constantly in my sight – so they can’t even get behind furniture.  Until they are trained, I don’t give them the chance tto make mistakes….or at least very few….lol Get a crate, watch your dog, anticipate the times he needs to go out…. good luck toby

Response:

> We have a new puppy (about 2.5 to 3 months old) and have not previously had > a dog. It is a Bijon-Shizu cross and is very small and cute BUT IT PLOPS AND > PEES EVERYWHERE ESPECIALLY WHEN WE’RE NOT LOOKING!!!

That is your problem.  Puppies are a lot of work. You need to have them out with you as much as you possibly can BUT when you can’t watch them you need to confine them. http://www.k9web.com/dog-faqs/new-puppy.html > Any suggestions? We have a puppy-training book that says to set out > newspapers or a mat in a familiar spot, and when the pup makes a mistake to > firmly say NO and put the pup on the mat.

Some people like to teach their small dogs to eliminate indoors in a special area.  If you don’t have quick access to outside I can see the advantage in that.  However, if you *do* have quick access to outside your housetraining will go much faster if you always take the dog outside to eliminate. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Guess what? After 3 weeks there is zero progress. We use a purchased mat, > plastic on the bottom and some sort of absorbent material on top that is > supposed to have a nature smell. You can sit there with the dog for half an > hour watching it – literally – waiting for it to sneak a plop, but nothing > happens. So you give up and go do dishes. You turn around 1.5 seconds later > and the dog is plopping happily  behind a chair or around the corner on the > linoleum. > It seemed to me that she wanted some privacy because she always goes around > a corner or behind something. So yesterday we put her in a big > computer-screen box that she couldn’t get out of, and she immediately pee’d, > then wanted out. Later we plunked her in again and she immediately plopped > big-time, then wanted out. So now we have made a kind of cardboard wall > around her mat hoping she will feel comfortable plopping there. But instead > she sometimes lies down there and wants to nap. > This is very gross! I am getting dog-unhappy very quick. I realize it is a > big responsibility to have a dog, but I at least want to observe some > smidgeon of progress. A work associate says to shove the dogs face in it and > whack it with a newspaper! He says it worked for them – but I could never do > that to an animal. Instead I am looking for intelligent suggestions on how > to firmly but decently train her.

You are right not to follow that advice. Here is some more reading on housetraining. This is one of the better explanations: http://www.learn2.com/08/0827/0827.asp but here are some more: http://www.uwsp.edu/psych/dog/lib-SpecTrain.htm#house Diane Blackman http://www.dog-play.com  http://www.dog-play.com/TOTE.html "If others’ interpretations either bother us or recur, we owe it to ourselves and our dogs to reevaluate our own orientation carefully.  If we find ourselves becoming angry and defensive, chances are our own interpretations are the incorrect ones.  "The Body Language and Emotion of Dogs" by Myrna M. Milani, DVM.

Response:

Hello alpha wolf,

> cute BUT IT PLOPS AND > PEES EVERYWHERE ESPECIALLY WHEN WE’RE NOT LOOKING!!! > Bingo…the moral of the story is to not let it go anywhere when you aren’t > looking.

That’s not training, that’s forced control. > My pups are either a) in their crates; b) leashed to my belt; c) > out in the yard; or d) constantly in my sight – so they can’t even get > behind furniture.

Right. And you continue to crate, confine, and jerk and choke your dogs. They are not well behaved, or else you wouldn’t be SEEKING a SHOCK COLLAR to use on them. >  Until they are trained, I don’t give them the chance tto > make mistakes….or at least very few….lol

Yes, you’re right on top of them, and THAT’S WHY you can’t TRUST them, they’ve never LEARNED, because you are always there FORCING CONTROL. > Get a crate, watch your dog, anticipate the times he needs to go out….

In three dozen years of professional dog training, I’ve NEVER advised a person to crate their dog. > good luck

You can rely on luck. It’s abundant, but risky. I’d prefer to rely on the scientific and psychological behavior modification techniques as taught in the Wits’ End Dog Training Method manual available for free at http://www.doggydoright.com > toby

 Why don’t you try answering the questions below?: Koehler On Correcting The Housebreaking Backslider. "If the punishment is not severe enough, some of these "backsliders" will think they’re winning and will continue to mess in the house. An indelible impression can sometimes be made by giving the dog a hard spanking of long duration, then leaving him tied by the mess he’s made so you can come back at twenty minute intervals and punish him again for the same thing. (Dogs are REALLY stupid. J.H.) HOWE does koehler KNOW the dog don’t think he’s coming back to beat him every twenty minutes for the same mistake, just because you’re mad at him, instead of just TRAINING him??? See what I mean? You can’t justify that.

"Nope. That "beating dogs with sticks" things is something you twisted out of context, because you are full of bizarro manure." "Read koehler for content" marquis de shaw, IDIOT, Sadist, rpdb regular. "I LOVE KOHELER" lyinglynn, IDIOT, pathological liar, noted dog abuser. Koehler On Correcting The Barking Dog Thunder through the door or gate, snatch up the belt that you’ve conveniently placed, and descend on him. He’ll have no chance to dodge if you grab the line and reel him in until his front feet are  raised off the floor or, if he’s a big dog, until you’ve snubbed him up with a hitch on something (ceiling hook, rafters, tree limb, door, or even over your shoulder, if you know HOWE. j.h.) While he’s held in close, lay the strap vigorously against his thighs. Keep pouring it on him until he thinks it’s the bitter end. A real whaling now may cut down somewhat on the number of repeat performances that will be necessary. When you’re finished and the dog is convinced that he is, put him on a long down to think things over while you catch your breath. After fifteen or twenty minutes, release him from the stay and leave the area again." Tell us HOWE the dog knows he shouldn’t be barking? That is, until the beatings take effect, after ENOUGH lessons of "hard spankings of long duration??? It’s IN THE BOOK. Tell us  HOWE COME you think dogs might want to take a big chunk out of an abusive Thug who beats him every twenty minutes for crappin on the floor in a room you’ve restricted him to for this purpose, and then tied him next to a forced accident? And when koehler OCCASIONALLY finds a dog who objects to his training, why does he HANG the dog, instead of calming them down and teaching them there’s nothing to be afraid of??? That’s the ONLY question ANYONE of you CAN answer. The answer is OBVIOUS. koehler trainers are DOG ABUSING COWARDS HOWE MUCH brains does it take to beat a dog every twenty minutes for the same mistake you’ve tied it next to??? But I might like shooting them with a sling shot or BB gun better, you know, to teach the dog to WANT to stay at home Our professor of behavior Wisc. U., lyingdoc dermer endorses koehler. (He said: "I punish dog’s behavior, NOT the dog." You gonna believe THAT CRAP, PEOPLE??? Ask PROFESSOR DERMER to tell us HOWE the dog understands koehler coming back every twenty minutes to punish him again for the same mistake he’s tied him up next to, to housetrain him??? Go ahead and ASK HIM. The dirty COWARD won’t talk to me about it. He won’t talk to Marilyn about it, and he can’t say SHE’S been INCIVIL WITH HIM. We know HOWE SENSITIVE our koehler trainers are… "There’s much wisdom in koehler," deana pace. (Her dogs run away from home.) "Read koehler," lyingdogDUMMY. (koehler is all he understands.) "Read koehler & cindymorons k-9 web faq’s page," ludwig smith. "Don’t let him do that & read cindymooreon’s web page," boob maida. > lyinglynn writes to a new foster care giver: > For barking in the crate – leave the leash on and > pass it through the crate door.  Attach a line to it. > When he barks, use the line for a correction.

Amy lyingfrosty dahl LIES with a straight face and says: "I don’t beat dogs, twist ears, or pinch toes. For the benefit of anyone who is in doubt, and who chooses not to read the article (SHE’D REALLY LIKE IT IF YOU DON’T READ IT!), there is NO mention in it of "twisting ears (INDEED, SHE PINCHES THEM WITH SPIKES). "Get a stick 30- or 40-inches long. You can have a helper wield the stick, or do it yourself. Tougher, less tractable dogs may require you to progress to striking them more sharply. REPEAT, VARYING HOW HARD YOU HIT THE DOG. I would never slap a dog (SHE TEACHES PEOPLE TO BEAT DOGS WITH STICKS TO MOTIVATE THEM). I would never advise anyone to slap a dog (SHE’S A PROVEN LIAR AND DOG ABUSER, do you expect her to ADMIT THE TRUTH???). I do not believe there is a single circumstance, ever, where slapping a dog is anything but destructive." RIGHT. She PINCHES, not twists… and chin cuff doesn’t mean hit, according to lyinglynn and avrama…. amy lyingfrosty dahl continues: Make the dog’s need to stop the pinching so urgent that resisting your will fades in importance. but will squeal, thrash around, and direct their efforts to escaping the ear pinch even get a studded collar and pinch the ear against that if the dog still does not open its mouth, get out the shotshell. Try pinching the ear between the metal casing and the collar, even the buckle on the collar. Persist! Eventually, the dog will give in" With your hand on the collar and ear, say, ‘fetch.’ Immediately tap the dog on the hindquarters with the stick. Repeat "fetch" and pinch the ear all the way to the dummy. You can press the dog’s ear with a shotshell instead of your thumb; Say "fetch" while pressing the dummy against its lips and pinching its ear. Gotta LOVE koehler. dahl makes koheler look like St. Francis. "Read for koehler for content" Mark Shaw, Idiot, Sadist, rpdb regular. "I LOVE KOHELER" lyinglynn, IDIOT, pathological liar, noted dog abuser. "There’s much wisdom in koehler," deana pace. (Her dogs run away from home.) "Read koehler," lyingdogDUMMY. (koehler is all he understands.) "Read koehler, cindymorons k-9 web faq’s page," ludwig smith. "Don’t let him do that, read cindymooreon’s web page," boob maida. And the prongs sticking and pinching into the dog’s throat is NOT DURESS. That’s why the dogs get "excited" when they see their "training" collars come out. They are BEGGING not to hurt them some moore. It’s the same way lyingfrosty dahl and freaky frantik fraud die get that animated look in their dogs when they work. The dog is TERRIFIED. The wiggling and happy look is ANXIETY, FEAR, and SUBMISSION. The dog is BEGGING not to hurt him some more. "Get a stick 30- or 40-inches long. You can have a helper wield the stick, or do it yourself. Tougher, less tractable dogs may require you to progress to striking them more sharply. REPEAT, VARYING HOW HARD YOU HIT THE DOG.

Response:

Hello blackman, > That is your problem.  Puppies are a lot of work. You need to have them out with you > as much as you possibly can BUT when you can’t watch them you need to confine them.

Confining the dog CAUSES housebreaking problems. That’s not training, that’s avoiding the problem, and not allowing the dog to recognize the home as his den. Housebreaking is NATURAL for dogs, but when you crate them, they ONLY recognize the crate as where they shouldn’t relieve themselves. > http://www.k9web.com/dog-faqs/new-puppy.html

Now, this website you recommend? That’s cindymooreon’s page. She teaches the most violent methods in creation. She’s been banned from TWO dog training clubs, because they can’t have a vicious Thug like her jerking and choking her dogs on their property. She shoves fingers down puppy’s throats to choke them out of mouthing, and is only concerned with getting SLIME on her fingers. Then, when the pup will NEVER put something in it’s mouth, she twists and pinches it’s ears and toes, to make him pick up a retrieve article. She DEPENDS on the alph roll as her "heaviest weapon in her training arsenal," despite that it’s been PROVEN to cause extreme risk of provoking the dog to attack his trainer. She knees dogs in the chest and steps on their toes and throws them to the ground and climbs all over them like a raped ape, to break them of jumping. She chin cuffs, scruff shakes, and recommends shoving dog’s heads under water you’ve filled into a hole the dog has dug. > Any suggestions? We have a puppy-training book that says to set out > newspapers or a mat in a familiar spot, and when the pup makes a mistake to > firmly say NO and put the pup on the mat.

Of course scolding the dog is going to reinforce the behavior PROBLEM. > Some people like to teach their small dogs to eliminate indoors in a special > area.  If you don’t have quick access to outside I can see the advantage in > that.  However, if you *do* have quick access to outside your housetraining > will go much faster if you always take the dog outside to eliminate.

Is that so? You think dogs are STUPID. Dogs have more intelligence than you do, blackman. You only understand forced control. > Guess what? After 3 weeks there is zero progress. We use a purchased mat, > plastic on the bottom and some sort of absorbent material on top that is > supposed to have a nature smell. You can sit there with the dog for half an > hour watching it – literally – waiting for it to sneak a plop, but nothing > happens. So you give up and go do dishes. You turn around 1.5 seconds later > and the dog is plopping happily  behind a chair or around the corner on the > linoleum.

That’s because they’ve been scolding the dog for eliminating inappropriately. It’s insane to punish the dog for doing what you want him to do in front of you, and then wonder why he won’t do it when you’re watching. This is the crux of the problem for MOST behavior problems… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> It seemed to me that she wanted some privacy because she always goes around > a corner or behind something. So yesterday we put her in a big > computer-screen box that she couldn’t get out of, and she immediately pee’d, > then wanted out. Later we plunked her in again and she immediately plopped > big-time, then wanted out. So now we have made a kind of cardboard wall > around her mat hoping she will feel comfortable plopping there. But instead > she sometimes lies down there and wants to nap. > This is very gross! I am getting dog-unhappy very quick. I realize it is a > big responsibility to have a dog, but I at least want to observe some > smidgeon of progress. A work associate says to shove the dogs face in it and > whack it with a newspaper! He says it worked for them – but I could never do > that to an animal. Instead I am looking for intelligent suggestions on how > to firmly but decently train her. > You are right not to follow that advice. Here is some more reading on housetraining. > This is one of the better explanations: > http://www.learn2.com/08/0827/0827.asp

From the link above: "And when he’s been naughty? A very firm "No!" is far more effective than a rolled-up newspaper." That’s what I was just telling them not to do. > but here are some more: > http://www.uwsp.edu/psych/dog/lib-SpecTrain.htm#house

And there we find more bad information. I suggest people stay away from those pages you recommend. They’ll only teach people to confront, confine, punish, and dominate their dogs, and continue fighting dog behavior problems for years, as you have yourself. Your own dogs are day boarded becasue they are not trustworthy at home alone. You’ve got a dog who’s been a chronic puller for five years, despite EVERYTHING you’ve done to force control. You even knit little cover-ups for the pronged choke collar so your pals don’t see what you’ve got to do to control your own dog. > Diane Blackman > http://www.dog-play.com  http://www.dog-play.com/TOTE.html > "If others’ interpretations either bother us or recur, we owe it to > ourselves and our dogs to reevaluate our own orientation carefully.  If we > find ourselves becoming angry and defensive, chances are our own > interpretations are the incorrect ones.  "The Body Language and Emotion of > Dogs" by Myrna M. Milani, DVM.

You got a big yap. Care to answer a couple of questions???: Koehler On Correcting The Housebreaking Backslider. "If the punishment is not severe enough, some of these "backsliders" will think they’re winning and will continue to mess in the house. An indelible impression can sometimes be made by giving the dog a hard spanking of long duration, then leaving him tied by the mess he’s made so you can come back at twenty minute intervals and punish him again for the same thing. (Dogs are REALLY stupid. J.H.) HOWE does koehler KNOW the dog don’t think he’s coming back to beat him every twenty minutes for the same mistake, just because you’re mad at him, instead of just TRAINING him??? See what I mean? You can’t justify that.

"Nope. That "beating dogs with sticks" things is something you twisted out of context, because you are full of bizarro manure." "Read koehler for content" marquis de shaw, IDIOT, Sadist, rpdb regular. "I LOVE KOHELER" lyinglynn, IDIOT, pathological liar, noted dog abuser. Koehler On Correcting The Barking Dog Thunder through the door or gate, snatch up the belt that you’ve conveniently placed, and descend on him. He’ll have no chance to dodge if you grab the line and reel him in until his front feet are  raised off the floor or, if he’s a big dog, until you’ve snubbed him up with a hitch on something (ceiling hook, rafters, tree limb, door, or even over your shoulder, if you know HOWE. j.h.) While he’s held in close, lay the strap vigorously against his thighs. Keep pouring it on him until he thinks it’s the bitter end. A real whaling now may cut down somewhat on the number of repeat performances that will be necessary. When you’re finished and the dog is convinced that he is, put him on a long down to think things over while you catch your breath. After fifteen or twenty minutes, release him from the stay and leave the area again." Tell us HOWE the dog knows he shouldn’t be barking? That is, until the beatings take effect, after ENOUGH lessons of "hard spankings of long duration??? It’s IN THE BOOK. Tell us  HOWE COME you think dogs might want to take a big chunk out of an abusive Thug who beats him every twenty minutes for crappin on the floor in a room you’ve restricted him to for this purpose, and then tied him next to a forced accident? And when koehler OCCASIONALLY finds a dog who objects to his training, why does he HANG the dog, instead of calming them down and teaching them there’s nothing to be afraid of??? That’s the ONLY question ANYONE of you CAN answer. The answer is OBVIOUS. koehler trainers are DOG ABUSING COWARDS HOWE MUCH brains does it take to beat a dog every twenty minutes for the same mistake you’ve tied it next to??? But I might like shooting them with a sling shot or BB gun better, you know, to teach the dog to WANT to stay at home Our professor of behavior Wisc. U., lyingdoc dermer endorses koehler. (He said: "I punish dog’s behavior, NOT the dog." You gonna believe THAT CRAP, PEOPLE??? Ask PROFESSOR DERMER to tell us HOWE the dog understands koehler coming back every twenty minutes to punish him again for the same mistake he’s tied him up next to, to housetrain him??? Go ahead and ASK HIM. The dirty COWARD won’t talk to me about it. He won’t talk to Marilyn about it, and he can’t say SHE’S been INCIVIL WITH HIM. We know HOWE SENSITIVE our koehler trainers are… "There’s much wisdom in koehler," deana pace. (Her dogs run away from home.) "Read koehler," lyingdogDUMMY. (koehler is all he understands.) "Read koehler & cindymorons k-9 web faq’s page," ludwig smith. "Don’t let him do that & read cindymooreon’s web page," boob maida. > lyinglynn writes to a new foster care giver: > For barking in the crate – leave the leash on and > pass it through the crate door.  Attach a line to it. > When he barks, use the line for a correction.

Amy lyingfrosty dahl LIES with a straight face and says: "I don’t beat dogs, twist ears, or pinch toes. For the benefit of anyone who is in doubt, and who chooses not to read the article (SHE’D REALLY LIKE IT IF YOU DON’T READ IT!), there is NO mention in it of "twisting ears (INDEED, SHE PINCHES THEM WITH SPIKES). "Get a stick 30- or 40-inches long. You can have a helper wield the stick, or do it yourself. Tougher, less tractable dogs may require you to progress to striking them more sharply. REPEAT, VARYING HOW HARD YOU HIT THE DOG. I would never slap a dog (SHE TEACHES PEOPLE TO BEAT DOGS WITH STICKS TO MOTIVATE THEM). I would never advise anyone to slap a dog (SHE’S A PROVEN LIAR AND … read more »

Response:

>In three dozen years of professional dog training, I’ve NEVER advised a person to crate >their dog.

So you have been giving people bad advice for over thirty years

Response:

Some very good success! We tried a sandbox in the backyard rather than the indoor mat, but no luck. The pup just dug in the sand and snuffled around in it. Then we tried taking the pup out onto the gravel where she couldn’t be distracted. She sniffs around and then goes both ends within 1.5 minutes. We keep her on a short leash, which is less confining that trying to hold her in the "gravel zone". She doesn’t buck the leash at all; instead she seems very happy to be outside and sniff the air and gravel. After she’s done we give her a nice treat. This is working out very well. She just did not take to the indoor mat at all. PS: Thanks for all the advice. Micer

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> We have a new puppy (about 2.5 to 3 months old) and have not previously had > a dog. It is a Bijon-Shizu cross and is very small and cute BUT IT PLOPS AND > PEES EVERYWHERE ESPECIALLY WHEN WE’RE NOT LOOKING!!! > Any suggestions? We have a puppy-training book that says to set out > newspapers or a mat in a familiar spot, and when the pup makes a mistake to > firmly say NO and put the pup on the mat. > Guess what? After 3 weeks there is zero progress. We use a purchased mat, > plastic on the bottom and some sort of absorbent material on top that is > supposed to have a nature smell. You can sit there with the dog for half an > hour watching it – literally – waiting for it to sneak a plop, but nothing > happens. So you give up and go do dishes. You turn around 1.5 seconds later > and the dog is plopping happily  behind a chair or around the corner on the > linoleum. > It seemed to me that she wanted some privacy because she always goes around > a corner or behind something. So yesterday we put her in a big > computer-screen box that she couldn’t get out of, and she immediately pee’d, > then wanted out. Later we plunked her in again and she immediately plopped > big-time, then wanted out. So now we have made a kind of cardboard wall > around her mat hoping she will feel comfortable plopping there. But instead > she sometimes lies down there and wants to nap. > This is very gross! I am getting dog-unhappy very quick. I realize it is a > big responsibility to have a dog, but I at least want to observe some > smidgeon of progress. A work associate says to shove the dogs face in it and > whack it with a newspaper! He says it worked for them – but I could never do > that to an animal. Instead I am looking for intelligent suggestions on how > to firmly but decently train her. > Any suggestions? > Thanks in advance, > Micer

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Hello alpha wolf, If your "methods" were so good, you wouldn’t be looking into SHOCK COLLARS to "tighten up" the loose edges in your "repertoire" of dog training techniques… Trainers who need to HURT dogs to train them aren’t bright enough to outwit a puppy dog. You’re a FRAUD. Your pal, Jerry "The Phony," Howe.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> cute BUT IT PLOPS AND > PEES EVERYWHERE ESPECIALLY WHEN WE’RE NOT LOOKING!!! > Bingo…the moral of the story is to not let it go anywhere when you aren’t > looking.  My pups are either a) in their crates; b) leashed to my belt; c) > out in the yard; or d) constantly in my sight – so they can’t even get > behind furniture.  Until they are trained, I don’t give them the chance tto > make mistakes….or at least very few….lol > Get a crate, watch your dog, anticipate the times he needs to go out…. > good luck > toby

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