Question:

Hello bethf,

> Try YELPING ouch,

Yelping calls attention to the dog that nipping might stop you in your tracks and pay 100% of your undivided attention to him, and may overstimulate the dog to boot. > and then walking away from her when she bites you.

Figger it out. You’re suppoed to be a dog trainer. You ain’t. You shock and spray citronella and crate dogs to control behaviors and have even sprayed Binaca in your dogs eyes to stop him from anxiety barking. The dog comes over mouthing to greet and play. That’s affection. You’re so smart you’re going to reject the puppy’s overtures, and then wonder why you can’t train the dog to come. > Stop the play when she bites too hard.

Don’t you think that’ll teach the pup to be able to control you, just as you try to control them? The objective here is supposed to teach appropriate play. > As for biting other things like rugs and other objects "UHUH"

Then you’ve got to CORRECT AGAIN. And you’ve got to increase the ATTENTION GETTING PROPENSITIES of your corrections, which as you’ve already AGREED, an uhuh is just as PAINFUL as a nick from your shock collar or the WHOOSH! of your hickory stick. Or did you forget your "training" discussion with lying "I LOVE KOEHLER" lynn. > and distraction is probably the way to go.

NO. BIG PROBLEM. Distraction and praise techniques… not "uhuh" as a THREAT and give the dog a toy. That’s not training, that’s what teaches the dog to do behaviors when you’re not watching to correct them. Trading is bribery. Bribery is a lowly thing. If you want your dog to come out to play with you, make the dog want to come out there to play with YOU. ANYBODY can offer the dog a ball, you’re the only one who can offer your dog YOU. That’s why we never want to be corrective. We don’t want to call our attention to any behavior we don’t want repeated because the dog will quickly learn to pull that behavior any time he wants to stop you dead in your tracks and pay him 100% of your undivided attention. That’s what our "experts" are fighting every time they try to train a dog. That’s why they lock dogs in crates and call it training and jerk and choke and shock and kill dogs they’re afraid to hurt anymoore. > Is it working ?

Probably not becasue he’s still got the behavior problem. My methods usually extinguish these problems in a couple of days or less. > Does she stop biting the rug and bite the toy instead?

The problem is the dog still desires chewing on the couch or rug. He’ll taste it when he can. Distracting with a toy is barely managing the situation till you can figure out HOWE to extinguish the behavior. Got it? > If so, thats great!

Well, it beats a sharp stick in the eye. But ANY "uhuh" is NOT distraction, it’s intimidation. Evidenced by the golden words of our pathological liar lying "I LOVE KOEHLER" lynn who’ll do and say anything to prove herself right, fell right into defending my POV against hurting and intimidating dogs to train them. I’ll copy that post below. It’s excellent information to show you HOWE our "experts" are deceiving themselves and lying to us. If you really are a dog trainer or interested in behavior I strongly suggest you read it and discuss it with me if you have any questions. This post will explode your head. > -Beth, Pseudo usenet cop

Hello Mr. Mastiff,

> Great suggestions, I’ll work with her on them.  Thank you very

much. -MM

Now stand in the corner and dope slap yourself a few times and then study the FREE Wits’ End Dog Training Method manual. Hello People, Hello stephie,

> Understood.

That’s the problem, stephie. You don’t understand. You’ve made every handling error in creation, and continue to find moore. >  I will be speaking to our class instructor tomorrow > about some private lessons or reccommendations.

If your "instructor" had the abilitiy to help you, you’d have been done by now. I suggest you’re being taught wrong. > the prevailing theory is that his orginal owners tried to train > him.

Past is history. It’s irrelevant. > They did not realize they had a dominant personality > on their hands and he landed in the local shelter.

That’s a large part of your problem, stephanie. You’re doing the alpha dominance trip. That’s not gonna work. You’ll learn that the hard way. You’re already mostly there right now, you just don’t see it. Everything you’ve done is predictably going to cause you to lose this dog. > I in turn, upon bringing him home, unknowingly let him get the > upper hand.

You mean exactly what by that? I can’t concieve of a DOG getting the "upper hand" on anything… That’s the crux of your problem, stephie. You’ve been horribly misled about dog behavior, and that’s why you’ll continue to have big problems. > Sleeping on the bed after he proved he could be trusted not to > tear up the house was the biggie.

I’ve never imagined sleeping on the bed has ever been a problem for any dog. > His foster family had absolutely no problem with him whatsoever. > They also have 6 or 7 greyhounds, and a couple of rescue dobies. > There was no way he was going to be anywhere near alpha there.

Alpha again? As a PUPPY? > She was totally floored when I told her about his problems.

Didn’t surprise me. >  We went back for a visit…he tried to nip her young son

I’ve talked about that before. That’s why I don’t allow visits from former owners. It can make dogs dangerous for two or three days. > and she was all over him like flies on sh*t.

Now you got troubles with other children. Same as what killed Sampson. Ask steve hanson. Or ask any of our Thugs who told him to confront Sampson. >  There were no more problems the rest of the day.

RIGHT. That’s why our THUGS think confronting dogs works. They only see the pile of $#!T they step into at the moment. They don’t look for the next pile until they step in it. > That will be difficult but I know of a few kids that I can talk

to. You got a lot of work to do before screwing around with introducing him to anyone. > HOWEVER, I will work with our instructor a bit first…

I think your "instructor" has hit the wall… or you wouldn’t have TROUBLE now. > or someone she may recommend.

INDEED. If she were a competent trainer, and if she had any friends who are competent behaviorists or trainers with more experience, she’d have told you this dog needed moore help that she could offer. Like boob maida did with carol. > Humm, that’s an interesting idea.   Also, the alpha eats first.  I > make sure I eat my dinner before I even think about fixing his.

Pssst! In the big scheme of things, nobody gives a crap about who eats first… You’re supposed to be teching him to live in a civilized human family social structure, not wild dog pack. Can’t you see the difference? A wild pack behaves like that. A civilized family conducts themselves with decorum at the dinner table. > And I give my chichuaua her dinner before he gets his.

That might make him jealous. Lucky she’s a female, less likely to get hurt by him. That’s because males usually defer to females. > Yep, she is the alpha in the house.

A Chi is hardly in a position to "be alpha" over a doberman. There’s more to this than you are aware of. > tHAT By seeing everyone else eat first, that  could > give him a clue.   And he is very treat/food motivated.

No. He’s not going to get any clue for watching everyone else eat first. Forget that alpha and dominance crap. That’s half your trouble with him. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Now about the attempts to attack passersby and >visitors: Were this my dog, I would pull my cap >off my head, yell a term he knows to mean "no >aggression," and whack him on the but *the very >moment* he exhibited the desire to attack a child. >(This is about the only time I would ever even >mock hit my dog)  The dog has to know that such >aggression is *not tolerated* at all–that it is >wrong!  (I know someone who has so strongly taught >his terrier not to bite, that you cannot get it to >put your hand in its mouth.) > Hummmm, I will have to think on that one.  When he was deep in > the  throws of problems with "puppy biting",  he would want to > play..and  would run in circles around me, darting in and out to > nip.  A squirt  bottle finally got it under control..(this is only an > occasional occurance now)….but every once in a while when I > forgot the bottle,  he would get way out of hand and  out of shear > anger, I would pop him hard on the muzzle..that earned me > another nip.  I was wrong, I admit it and I felt like crap

afterwards. And now you’re going to start paying back for past mistakes, as the mistakes you may today, you’ll be paying for tommorow. Dogs don’t think like you think they do… > But, a couple of times I caught him counter surfing and half > swatted him on the butt with a towel.

Another good reason not to use food with him while trying to introduce him to strangers. He’s liable to think back to that counter incident as he sees someone holding food at that same height, and he’s histroy… > That caused him to tuck under and  slink off.  Hummmmmmmm. > Yep, I have to think about that.

I suggest you don’t bother thinking about anything, that’s half your damn problem till now. You’ve been misled by our fear, force, and control freaks, and you’re going to be further misled, and your dog will end up dead. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->You expressed something that worries me a bit. >When you were talking about getting him a muzzle, >you mentioned maybe needing it for protection >yourself.  Now, if you are in fact in danger, that >is a very bad thing.  I also wonder because of >that if the dog accepts you as the clich