Posts belonging to Category 'Dog Behavior Aggressive'

Training collars for toy breeds – leash corrections for toy breeds

Question:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> HOWEDY Black Topaz, > I would appreciate any advice from experienced trainers > I doubt that very much. Most of our trainers are incompetent > fools who hurt dogs because they fear dogs makin fools outta > them, injuring their fragile egos by EMBARRASSING THEM > and COSTIN THEM MONEY. So they stick together and BLAME > THE DOG for not being well bred enough to respect their tormentors. > They’ll fight to the death to defend their pronged spiked pinch > choke and shock collars and GL NECKBREAKER devices and > crates to lock their ill trained dogs in so they’re not holding the > bag for NOT BEING ABLE to TRAIN the puppy. > on suitable (safe) training collars for small/toy breeds, > I’ve specialized in temperament and behavior and protection > problems in mostly giant breed dogs for forty years. I train > a toy dog exactly the same as I do a giant aggressive dog. > There’s NO DIFFERENCE. A dog is a dog and must not > be hurt punished confronted or irresponsibly confined and > cruelly ignored because IT is asking for his mommy. > Crate training causes separation anxiet fear of thunder > and car sicknes… Collar training causes shyness, hyperactivity, > aggression and ALL COMPULSIVE BEHAVIOR DISORDERS. > and > And I’m gettin tired of arguing with rabid dog abusing lying Thugs > about it. Any trainer who uses a force or pain or corrective method > or device is a dog killer, BECAUSE THAT’S THE TRUTH. > ALL ANIMAL BEHAVIOR PROBLEMS ARE CAUSED BY MISHANDLING. ALL DOG BEHAVIOR > PROBLMES CAN > BE EXTINGUISHED AS SOON AS YOU STOP OPPOSING > HURTING INTIMIDATING CONFRONTING AND PUNISHING > YOUR DOG. > whether leash corrections should be used at all with these dogs. > You mean you question the wisdom of choking your puppy to teach > IT to want to love respect and follow you through the gates of heel? > GOOD POINT! > The only thing you got to hear is our dog lovers are lying > dog abusing Thugs and the proof is they’ll call me and > my 100% successful students liars, paid shills for Jerry, > sock puppets, forgeries, and animal fuckers. > That’s the state of the art here. Ask anybody here about using > your FREE copy of my FREE Wits’ End Dog Training Method > manual. They’ll tell you its dangerous and ineffective and they’ll > give you dozens or reasons for not trusting Jerry and his success. > Our dog lovers are liars and dog abusers and I’ve proven it. They > have no shame, only such fear that would allow them to continue > to face daily embarrassment in front of new readers like you. > They’re counting on the fact that if you’re not one of them, you’ll > dry up and blow away and our forum will retain ONLY the liars > and dog abusers who post here calling me and all other competent > trainers liars, to protect their alleged right to choke shock and kill > the dogs they cannot hurt and intimidate into respecting their > AUTHORITY. > We don’t have animal behavior problems we have HUMAN NATURE > problems. FEARING, HURTING and KILLING DOGS IS THEIR > HUMAN NATURE. Most of our dog lovers are koehler and shock > and pronged spiked pinch choke collar fans. > Any trainer who calles themself a BALANCED trainer is a goddamned > liar trying to defend his INABILITY to handle and train a dog without > HURTING them. > harnesses are the only option; buckle collar high on > neck around ears with one finger width underneath; martingale collars > OK; tiny prongs OK. > Bottom line is ANY touch while the dog is THINKING triggers > thigmotaxis an inhibits the dog from processing THOUGTS other > than the one he’s fixated on at the moment of pressure. >I am aware that > You’re aware of NUTHIN. You’re aware of the LIES and PRECONCIEVED > MISCONCEPTIONS our behaviorsts > are operating under. The universities that teach behaviorists > and endores alpha crating choke shock and punishemnt or > force training methods need to stop or have their licenses > to TEACH, revoked. > certain dogs have physical conditions that preclude use of > anything but a harness. > You mean certain dogs CAN’T BE HURT? That condition is > called being a living, thinking being, an animal, entrusted to > our care, management and HUMAN KINDNESS. > My first priority is the animal’s safety. > Well, safety is what provokes our dog lovers to hurt and kill their dogs. > All the EXCUSES our dog lovers rely on to justify hurting dogs is > FOR THEIR OWN GOOD! > Nobody here hurts and kills dogs cause they LIKE to, they do it > CAUSE THEY NEED TO. They’re POWERLESS in the face > of THEIR OWN HUMAN NATURE to fear and hurt and kill > what they DO NOT UNDERSTAND. > "If You Talk With The Animals, They Will Talk > With You And You Will Know Each Other. If > You Do Not Talk To Them, You Will Not Know > Them, And What You Do Not Know You Will Fear. > What One Fears, One Destroys," Chief Dan George, > adapted with permission from his FREE copy of my > FREE Wits’ End Dog Training Method manual available > for FREE at http://www.doggydoright.com > "It is by muteness that a dog becomes so utterly beyond value." > Like a confessor Priest? Don’t bet your dog won’t tell on you… > Their behaviors reflect our words, actions and training quirks. > Jerry HOWE. j;~) >  Thanks! > There’s a free text to speech reader at http://www.readplease.com > Do all the exercises and you’ll have a superdog in a couple days… > Your pal, Jerry "The PHONY," Howe. j;~) > The Wits’ End Dog Training Method > Jerry Howe > Copyright 2001 > Phone: 1-888-WITSEND > TABLE OF CONTENTS > INTRODUCTION 3 > HOW IS WITS’ END DOG TRAINING DIFFERENT? 4 > PART I > 1. METHODOLOGY 6 > 1A. Common Misunderstandings 7 > 1B. Learn Today! 9 > 2. GETTING STARTED 12 > 2A. First Things First: Proper Lead Handling 12 > 2B. What is a Conditioned Reflex? 14 > 2C. How to Install a Conditioned Reflex and Teach Any Command in Minutes 15 > 3. The "Hot" and "Cold" Exercise 19 > 4. The "Family Pack Leadership" exercise 20 > 5. Practicing the "Recall" or "Come" Command 22 > 6. Teach Any Command Through Conditioned Reflex 23 > 7. Use Sound to Break Bad Behavior! 24 > 7A. Other Examples of Sound to Correct Bad Behavior 26 > 7B. Unacceptable Expressions of Dominance 27 > 7C. More Subtle Examples of Unacceptable Dominance 28 > 7D. How to Correct Mouthing 29 > 7E. No Dogs on Beds! And Other Problems 33 > 7F. Housebreaking Technique > 8. Roll-Over on the Alpha Rollover 34 > The Alpha Rollover 34 > 9. Separation Anxiety Surrogate Toy Technique 36 > 9A.The Soggy Potato Chip Theory 37 > 10. THE WITS’ END DOG TRAINING METHOD 38 > 10A. State Conditioned Learning > 10B.Training Behaviors Using Territorial Instinct > 10C. Anchoring And Triggering States Of Mind > 10D. Escape, Fence Jumping, Border/Perimiter Training > PART II > 1. OBEDIENCE 46 > 2. ASK YOUR DOG TO WORK 47 > 2A. Back to Work 48 > 2B. Stay 49 > 2C. Sit From the Side 49 > 2D. Heel vs. Return to Heel 50 > 2E. Sit From the Front 51 > 3. THE HEELING PATTERN EXERCISE 52 > 3A. Down From the Side 56 > 3B. Leave Your Dog on a Stay Command 57 > 3C. Returning to the Heel Position 58 > 3D. Down From the Front 59 > 4. PRACTICING LONG STAY COMMANDS 60 > 5. STAND 62 > Introduction > The Wits’ End Dog Training Method is the fastest, gentlest, most effective, > comprehensive behavior modification/obedience and protection training > technique available anywhere… And now, it’s FREE!!! It’s copyright 2001 > information, so be advised: use it wisely, and use it often; use, copy, and > distribute it in it its entirety or none at all. > Our no force, no nonsense, no negative re-enforcement approach is unique, > systematic, and unconventional, which means no dog is too young, too old, > too large, too small, too stubborn, too stupid or too bad, to train. > Specializing in problem dog behavior compelled us to research new methods to > instruct humans as well as canines. > Not everyone needs formal obedience training, but you do need a dog you can > live with, starting today, not after lengthy training, not after your dog > matures, not when it’s too late! This requires a basic understanding of how > your dog thinks and learns. That, and the "Family Pack Leadership" exercise, > coupled with teaching the "recall" or "come" command, are all that one needs > to effectively control the companion dog. > The mistakes your dog makes are neither mistakes nor accidents. They are > instinctive challenges to your leadership and authority. Wits’ End Dog > Training anticipates these impending mistakes inherent to each phase of > training, and relies on them to turn the tables psychologically on your pet > to convince him you are his appropriate leader, and make him want to do > anything you ask. Wits’ End Dog Training is easy, quick, and foolproof, and > works with every time, with every canine, even wolves! > The ability to think, rationalize, and solve problems are learned qualities. > Our enlightened methods challenge the learning centers in your dog’s brain. > These centers develop and continue to grow exponentially. Wits’ End Dog > Training capitalizes on praising split seconds of canine thought, strategy, > and timing, not mindless hours of forced repetition, constant corrections, > and scolding. > This manual will provide all the tools you will need to learn properly to > handle and train your dog. We will address the most difficult behaviors with > effective tools, real answers, and common sense advice. Successful > completion of our program means you will never need another dog-training > lesson again! > We train

… read more »

Response:

HOWEDY Black Topaz,

> I would appreciate any advice from experienced trainers

I doubt that very much. Most of our trainers are incompetent fools who hurt dogs because they fear dogs makin fools outta them, injuring their fragile egos by EMBARRASSING THEM and COSTIN THEM MONEY. So they stick together and BLAME THE DOG for not being well bred enough to respect their tormentors. They’ll fight to the death to defend their pronged spiked pinch choke and shock collars and GL NECKBREAKER devices and crates to lock their ill trained dogs in so they’re not holding the bag for NOT BEING ABLE to TRAIN the puppy. > on suitable (safe) training collars for small/toy breeds,

I’ve specialized in temperament and behavior and protection problems in mostly giant breed dogs for forty years. I train a toy dog exactly the same as I do a giant aggressive dog. There’s NO DIFFERENCE. A dog is a dog and must not be hurt punished confronted or irresponsibly confined and cruelly ignored because IT is asking for his mommy. Crate training causes separation anxiet fear of thunder and car sicknes… Collar training causes shyness, hyperactivity, aggression and ALL COMPULSIVE BEHAVIOR DISORDERS. > and

And I’m gettin tired of arguing with rabid dog abusing lying Thugs about it. Any trainer who uses a force or pain or corrective method or device is a dog killer, BECAUSE THAT’S THE TRUTH. ALL ANIMAL BEHAVIOR PROBLEMS ARE CAUSED BY MISHANDLING. ALL DOG BEHAVIOR PROBLMES CAN BE EXTINGUISHED AS SOON AS YOU STOP OPPOSING HURTING INTIMIDATING CONFRONTING AND PUNISHING YOUR DOG. > whether leash corrections should be used at all with these dogs.

You mean you question the wisdom of choking your puppy to teach IT to want to love respect and follow you through the gates of heel? GOOD POINT!

The only thing you got to hear is our dog lovers are lying dog abusing Thugs and the proof is they’ll call me and my 100% successful students liars, paid shills for Jerry, sock puppets, forgeries, and animal fuckers. That’s the state of the art here. Ask anybody here about using your FREE copy of my FREE Wits’ End Dog Training Method manual. They’ll tell you its dangerous and ineffective and they’ll give you dozens or reasons for not trusting Jerry and his success. Our dog lovers are liars and dog abusers and I’ve proven it. They have no shame, only such fear that would allow them to continue to face daily embarrassment in front of new readers like you. They’re counting on the fact that if you’re not one of them, you’ll dry up and blow away and our forum will retain ONLY the liars and dog abusers who post here calling me and all other competent trainers liars, to protect their alleged right to choke shock and kill the dogs they cannot hurt and intimidate into respecting their AUTHORITY. We don’t have animal behavior problems we have HUMAN NATURE problems. FEARING, HURTING and KILLING DOGS IS THEIR HUMAN NATURE. Most of our dog lovers are koehler and shock and pronged spiked pinch choke collar fans. Any trainer who calles themself a BALANCED trainer is a goddamned liar trying to defend his INABILITY to handle and train a dog without HURTING them. > harnesses are the only option; buckle collar high on > neck around ears with one finger width underneath; martingale collars > OK; tiny prongs OK.

Bottom line is ANY touch while the dog is THINKING triggers thigmotaxis an inhibits the dog from processing THOUGTS other than the one he’s fixated on at the moment of pressure. >I am aware that

You’re aware of NUTHIN. You’re aware of the LIES and PRECONCIEVED MISCONCEPTIONS our behaviorsts are operating under. The universities that teach behaviorists and endores alpha crating choke shock and punishemnt or force training methods need to stop or have their licenses to TEACH, revoked. > certain dogs have physical conditions that preclude use of > anything but a harness.

You mean certain dogs CAN’T BE HURT? That condition is called being a living, thinking being, an animal, entrusted to our care, management and HUMAN KINDNESS. > My first priority is the animal’s safety.

Well, safety is what provokes our dog lovers to hurt and kill their dogs. All the EXCUSES our dog lovers rely on to justify hurting dogs is FOR THEIR OWN GOOD! Nobody here hurts and kills dogs cause they LIKE to, they do it CAUSE THEY NEED TO. They’re POWERLESS in the face of THEIR OWN HUMAN NATURE to fear and hurt and kill what they DO NOT UNDERSTAND. "If You Talk With The Animals, They Will Talk With You And You Will Know Each Other. If You Do Not Talk To Them, You Will Not Know Them, And What You Do Not Know You Will Fear. What One Fears, One Destroys," Chief Dan George, adapted with permission from his FREE copy of my FREE Wits’ End Dog Training Method manual available for FREE at http://www.doggydoright.com "It is by muteness that a dog becomes so utterly beyond value." Like a confessor Priest? Don’t bet your dog won’t tell on you… Their behaviors reflect our words, actions and training quirks. Jerry HOWE. j;~) >  Thanks!

There’s a free text to speech reader at http://www.readplease.com Do all the exercises and you’ll have a superdog in a couple days… Your pal, Jerry "The PHONY," Howe. j;~) The Wits’ End Dog Training Method Jerry Howe Copyright 2001 Phone: 1-888-WITSEND TABLE OF CONTENTS INTRODUCTION 3 HOW IS WITS’ END DOG TRAINING DIFFERENT? 4 PART I 1. METHODOLOGY 6 1A. Common Misunderstandings 7 1B. Learn Today! 9 2. GETTING STARTED 12 2A. First Things First: Proper Lead Handling 12 2B. What is a Conditioned Reflex? 14 2C. How to Install a Conditioned Reflex and Teach Any Command in Minutes 15 3. The "Hot" and "Cold" Exercise 19 4. The "Family Pack Leadership" exercise 20 5. Practicing the "Recall" or "Come" Command 22 6. Teach Any Command Through Conditioned Reflex 23 7. Use Sound to Break Bad Behavior! 24 7A. Other Examples of Sound to Correct Bad Behavior 26 7B. Unacceptable Expressions of Dominance 27 7C. More Subtle Examples of Unacceptable Dominance 28 7D. How to Correct Mouthing 29 7E. No Dogs on Beds! And Other Problems 33 7F. Housebreaking Technique 8. Roll-Over on the Alpha Rollover 34 The Alpha Rollover 34 9. Separation Anxiety Surrogate Toy Technique 36 9A.The Soggy Potato Chip Theory 37 10. THE WITS’ END DOG TRAINING METHOD 38 10A. State Conditioned Learning 10B.Training Behaviors Using Territorial Instinct 10C. Anchoring And Triggering States Of Mind 10D. Escape, Fence Jumping, Border/Perimiter Training PART II 1. OBEDIENCE 46 2. ASK YOUR DOG TO WORK 47 2A. Back to Work 48 2B. Stay 49 2C. Sit From the Side 49 2D. Heel vs. Return to Heel 50 2E. Sit From the Front 51 3. THE HEELING PATTERN EXERCISE 52 3A. Down From the Side 56 3B. Leave Your Dog on a Stay Command 57 3C. Returning to the Heel Position 58 3D. Down From the Front 59 4. PRACTICING LONG STAY COMMANDS 60 5. STAND 62 Introduction The Wits’ End Dog Training Method is the fastest, gentlest, most effective, comprehensive behavior modification/obedience and protection training technique available anywhere… And now, it’s FREE!!! It’s copyright 2001 information, so be advised: use it wisely, and use it often; use, copy, and distribute it in it its entirety or none at all. Our no force, no nonsense, no negative re-enforcement approach is unique, systematic, and unconventional, which means no dog is too young, too old, too large, too small, too stubborn, too stupid or too bad, to train. Specializing in problem dog behavior compelled us to research new methods to instruct humans as well as canines. Not everyone needs formal obedience training, but you do need a dog you can live with, starting today, not after lengthy training, not after your dog matures, not when it’s too late! This requires a basic understanding of how your dog thinks and learns. That, and the "Family Pack Leadership" exercise, coupled with teaching the "recall" or "come" command, are all that one needs to effectively control the companion dog. The mistakes your dog makes are neither mistakes nor accidents. They are instinctive challenges to your leadership and authority. Wits’ End Dog Training anticipates these impending mistakes inherent to each phase of training, and relies on them to turn the tables psychologically on your pet to convince him you are his appropriate leader, and make him want to do anything you ask. Wits’ End Dog Training is easy, quick, and foolproof, and works with every time, with every canine, even wolves! The ability to think, rationalize, and solve problems are learned qualities. Our enlightened methods challenge the learning centers in your dog’s brain. These centers develop and continue to grow exponentially. Wits’ End Dog Training capitalizes on praising split seconds of canine thought, strategy, and timing, not mindless hours of forced repetition, constant corrections, and scolding. This manual will provide all the tools you will need to learn properly to handle and train your dog. We will address the most difficult behaviors with effective tools, real answers, and common sense advice. Successful completion of our program means you will never need another dog-training lesson again! We train you to use the most effective, positive, intelligent formulas, based on scientific, psychological, and behavioral principles, and accelerated learning techniques. We will teach you how dogs learn, and how to apply our thirty-six years of knowledge and experience to convince your dog to do anything you ask, the first time, every time! How is Wits’ End Dog Training Different? Wits’ End Dog Training methodology is not concerned with "training," but rather teaching the development of the thought process, molding and safeguarding the proper development of personality, stable … read more »

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> HOWEDY Black Topaz, > I would appreciate any advice from experienced trainers > I doubt that very much. Most of our trainers are incompetent > fools who hurt dogs because they fear dogs makin fools outta > them, injuring their fragile egos by EMBARRASSING THEM > and COSTIN THEM MONEY. So they stick together and BLAME > THE DOG for not being well bred enough to respect their tormentors. > They’ll fight to the death to defend their pronged spiked pinch > choke and shock collars and GL NECKBREAKER devices and > crates to lock their ill trained dogs in so they’re not holding the > bag for NOT BEING ABLE to TRAIN the puppy. > on suitable (safe) training collars for small/toy breeds, > I’ve specialized in temperament and behavior and protection > problems in mostly giant breed dogs for forty years. I train > a toy dog exactly the same as I do a giant aggressive dog. > There’s NO DIFFERENCE. A dog is a dog and must not > be hurt punished confronted or irresponsibly confined and > cruelly ignored because IT is asking for his mommy. > Crate training causes separation anxiet fear of thunder > and car sicknes… Collar training causes shyness, hyperactivity, > aggression and ALL COMPULSIVE BEHAVIOR DISORDERS. > and > And I’m gettin tired of arguing with rabid dog abusing lying Thugs > about it. Any trainer who uses a force or pain or corrective method > or device is a dog killer, BECAUSE THAT’S THE TRUTH. > ALL ANIMAL BEHAVIOR PROBLEMS ARE CAUSED BY MISHANDLING. ALL DOG BEHAVIOR > PROBLMES CAN > BE EXTINGUISHED AS SOON AS YOU STOP OPPOSING > HURTING INTIMIDATING CONFRONTING AND PUNISHING > YOUR DOG. > whether leash corrections should be used at all with these dogs. > You mean you question the wisdom of choking your puppy to teach > IT to want to love respect and follow you through the gates of heel? > GOOD POINT! > The only thing you got to hear is our dog lovers are lying > dog abusing Thugs and the proof is they’ll call me and > my 100% successful students liars, paid shills for Jerry, > sock puppets, forgeries, and animal fuckers. > That’s the state of the art here. Ask anybody here about using > your FREE copy of my FREE Wits’ End Dog Training Method > manual. They’ll tell you its dangerous and ineffective and they’ll > give you dozens or reasons for not trusting Jerry and his success. > Our dog lovers are liars and dog abusers and I’ve proven it. They > have no shame, only such fear that would allow them to continue > to face daily embarrassment in front of new readers like you. > They’re counting on the fact that if you’re not one of them, you’ll > dry up and blow away and our forum will retain ONLY the liars > and dog abusers who post here calling me and all other competent > trainers liars, to protect their alleged right to choke shock and kill > the dogs they cannot hurt and intimidate into respecting their > AUTHORITY. > We don’t have animal behavior problems we have HUMAN NATURE > problems. FEARING, HURTING and KILLING DOGS IS THEIR > HUMAN NATURE. Most of our dog lovers are koehler and shock > and pronged spiked pinch choke collar fans. > Any trainer who calles themself a BALANCED trainer is a goddamned > liar trying to defend his INABILITY to handle and train a dog without > HURTING them. > harnesses are the only option; buckle collar high on > neck around ears with one finger width underneath; martingale collars > OK; tiny prongs OK. > Bottom line is ANY touch while the dog is THINKING triggers > thigmotaxis an inhibits the dog from processing THOUGTS other > than the one he’s fixated on at the moment of pressure. >I am aware that > You’re aware of NUTHIN. You’re aware of the LIES and PRECONCIEVED > MISCONCEPTIONS our behaviorsts > are operating under. The universities that teach behaviorists > and endores alpha crating choke shock and punishemnt or > force training methods need to stop or have their licenses > to TEACH, revoked. > certain dogs have physical conditions that preclude use of > anything but a harness. > You mean certain dogs CAN’T BE HURT? That condition is > called being a living, thinking being, an animal, entrusted to > our care, management and HUMAN KINDNESS. > My first priority is the animal’s safety. > Well, safety is what provokes our dog lovers to hurt and kill their dogs. > All the EXCUSES our dog lovers rely on to justify hurting dogs is > FOR THEIR OWN GOOD! > Nobody here hurts and kills dogs cause they LIKE to, they do it > CAUSE THEY NEED TO. They’re POWERLESS in the face > of THEIR OWN HUMAN NATURE to fear and hurt and kill > what they DO NOT UNDERSTAND. > "If You Talk With The Animals, They Will Talk > With You And You Will Know Each Other. If > You Do Not Talk To Them, You Will Not Know > Them, And What You Do Not Know You Will Fear. > What One Fears, One Destroys," Chief Dan George, > adapted with permission from his FREE copy of my > FREE Wits’ End Dog Training Method manual available > for FREE at http://www.doggydoright.com > "It is by muteness that a dog becomes so utterly beyond value." > Like a confessor Priest? Don’t bet your dog won’t tell on you… > Their behaviors reflect our words, actions and training quirks. > Jerry HOWE. j;~) >  Thanks! > There’s a free text to speech reader at http://www.readplease.com > Do all the exercises and you’ll have a superdog in a couple days… > Your pal, Jerry "The PHONY," Howe. j;~) > The Wits’ End Dog Training Method > Jerry Howe > Copyright 2001 > Phone: 1-888-WITSEND > TABLE OF CONTENTS > INTRODUCTION 3 > HOW IS WITS’ END DOG TRAINING DIFFERENT? 4 > PART I > 1. METHODOLOGY 6 > 1A. Common Misunderstandings 7 > 1B. Learn Today! 9 > 2. GETTING STARTED 12 > 2A. First Things First: Proper Lead Handling 12 > 2B. What is a Conditioned Reflex? 14 > 2C. How to Install a Conditioned Reflex and Teach Any Command in Minutes 15 > 3. The "Hot" and "Cold" Exercise 19 > 4. The "Family Pack Leadership" exercise 20 > 5. Practicing the "Recall" or "Come" Command 22 > 6. Teach Any Command Through Conditioned Reflex 23 > 7. Use Sound to Break Bad Behavior! 24 > 7A. Other Examples of Sound to Correct Bad Behavior 26 > 7B. Unacceptable Expressions of Dominance 27 > 7C. More Subtle Examples of Unacceptable Dominance 28 > 7D. How to Correct Mouthing 29 > 7E. No Dogs on Beds! And Other Problems 33 > 7F. Housebreaking Technique > 8. Roll-Over on the Alpha Rollover 34 > The Alpha Rollover 34 > 9. Separation Anxiety Surrogate Toy Technique 36 > 9A.The Soggy Potato Chip Theory 37 > 10. THE WITS’ END DOG TRAINING METHOD 38 > 10A. State Conditioned Learning > 10B.Training Behaviors Using Territorial Instinct > 10C. Anchoring And Triggering States Of Mind > 10D. Escape, Fence Jumping, Border/Perimiter Training > PART II > 1. OBEDIENCE 46 > 2. ASK YOUR DOG TO WORK 47 > 2A. Back to Work 48 > 2B. Stay 49 > 2C. Sit From the Side 49 > 2D. Heel vs. Return to Heel 50 > 2E. Sit From the Front 51 > 3. THE HEELING PATTERN EXERCISE 52 > 3A. Down From the Side 56 > 3B. Leave Your Dog on a Stay Command 57 > 3C. Returning to the Heel Position 58 > 3D. Down From the Front 59 > 4. PRACTICING LONG STAY COMMANDS 60 > 5. STAND 62 > Introduction > The Wits’ End Dog Training Method is the fastest, gentlest, most effective, > comprehensive behavior modification/obedience and protection training > technique available anywhere… And now, it’s FREE!!! It’s copyright 2001 > information, so be advised: use it wisely, and use it often; use, copy, and > distribute it in it its entirety or none at all. > Our no force, no nonsense, no negative re-enforcement approach is unique, > systematic, and unconventional, which means no dog is too young, too old, > too large, too small, too stubborn, too stupid or too bad, to train. > Specializing in problem dog behavior compelled us to research new methods to > instruct humans as well as canines. > Not everyone needs formal obedience training, but you do need a dog you can > live with, starting today, not after lengthy training, not after your dog > matures, not when it’s too late! This requires a basic understanding of how > your dog thinks and learns. That, and the "Family Pack Leadership" exercise, > coupled with teaching the "recall" or "come" command, are all that one needs > to effectively control the companion dog. > The mistakes your dog makes are neither mistakes nor accidents. They are > instinctive challenges to your leadership and authority. Wits’ End Dog > Training anticipates these impending mistakes inherent to each phase of > training, and relies on them to turn the tables psychologically on your pet > to convince him you are his appropriate leader, and make him want to do > anything you ask. Wits’ End Dog Training is easy, quick, and foolproof, and > works with every time, with every canine, even wolves! > The ability to think, rationalize, and solve problems are learned qualities. > Our enlightened methods challenge the learning centers in your dog’s brain. > These centers develop and continue to grow exponentially. Wits’ End Dog > Training capitalizes on praising split seconds of canine thought, strategy, > and timing, not mindless hours of forced repetition, constant corrections, > and scolding. > This manual will provide all the tools you will need to learn properly to > handle and train your dog. We will address the most difficult behaviors with > effective tools, real answers, and common sense advice. Successful > completion of our program means you will never need another dog-training > lesson again! > We train

… read more »

Response:

HOWEDY Black Topaz,

> I would appreciate any advice from experienced trainers

I doubt that very much. Most of our trainers are incompetent fools who hurt dogs because they fear dogs makin fools outta them, injuring their fragile egos by EMBARRASSING THEM and COSTIN THEM MONEY. So they stick together and BLAME THE DOG for not being well bred enough to respect their tormentors. They’ll fight to the death to defend their pronged spiked pinch choke and shock collars and GL NECKBREAKER devices and crates to lock their ill trained dogs in so they’re not holding the bag for NOT BEING ABLE to TRAIN the puppy. > on suitable (safe) training collars for small/toy breeds,

I’ve specialized in temperament and behavior and protection problems in mostly giant breed dogs for forty years. I train a toy dog exactly the same as I do a giant aggressive dog. There’s NO DIFFERENCE. A dog is a dog and must not be hurt punished confronted or irresponsibly confined and cruelly ignored because IT is asking for his mommy. Crate training causes separation anxiet fear of thunder and car sicknes… Collar training causes shyness, hyperactivity, aggression and ALL COMPULSIVE BEHAVIOR DISORDERS. > and

And I’m gettin tired of arguing with rabid dog abusing lying Thugs about it. Any trainer who uses a force or pain or corrective method or device is a dog killer, BECAUSE THAT’S THE TRUTH. ALL ANIMAL BEHAVIOR PROBLEMS ARE CAUSED BY MISHANDLING. ALL DOG BEHAVIOR PROBLMES CAN BE EXTINGUISHED AS SOON AS YOU STOP OPPOSING HURTING INTIMIDATING CONFRONTING AND PUNISHING YOUR DOG. > whether leash corrections should be used at all with these dogs.

You mean you question the wisdom of choking your puppy to teach IT to want to love respect and follow you through the gates of heel? GOOD POINT!

The only thing you got to hear is our dog lovers are lying dog abusing Thugs and the proof is they’ll call me and my 100% successful students liars, paid shills for Jerry, sock puppets, forgeries, and animal fuckers. That’s the state of the art here. Ask anybody here about using your FREE copy of my FREE Wits’ End Dog Training Method manual. They’ll tell you its dangerous and ineffective and they’ll give you dozens or reasons for not trusting Jerry and his success. Our dog lovers are liars and dog abusers and I’ve proven it. They have no shame, only such fear that would allow them to continue to face daily embarrassment in front of new readers like you. They’re counting on the fact that if you’re not one of them, you’ll dry up and blow away and our forum will retain ONLY the liars and dog abusers who post here calling me and all other competent trainers liars, to protect their alleged right to choke shock and kill the dogs they cannot hurt and intimidate into respecting their AUTHORITY. We don’t have animal behavior problems we have HUMAN NATURE problems. FEARING, HURTING and KILLING DOGS IS THEIR HUMAN NATURE. Most of our dog lovers are koehler and shock and pronged spiked pinch choke collar fans. Any trainer who calles themself a BALANCED trainer is a goddamned liar trying to defend his INABILITY to handle and train a dog without HURTING them. > harnesses are the only option; buckle collar high on > neck around ears with one finger width underneath; martingale collars > OK; tiny prongs OK.

Bottom line is ANY touch while the dog is THINKING triggers thigmotaxis an inhibits the dog from processing THOUGTS other than the one he’s fixated on at the moment of pressure. >I am aware that

You’re aware of NUTHIN. You’re aware of the LIES and PRECONCIEVED MISCONCEPTIONS our behaviorsts are operating under. The universities that teach behaviorists and endores alpha crating choke shock and punishemnt or force training methods need to stop or have their licenses to TEACH, revoked. > certain dogs have physical conditions that preclude use of > anything but a harness.

You mean certain dogs CAN’T BE HURT? That condition is called being a living, thinking being, an animal, entrusted to our care, management and HUMAN KINDNESS. > My first priority is the animal’s safety.

Well, safety is what provokes our dog lovers to hurt and kill their dogs. All the EXCUSES our dog lovers rely on to justify hurting dogs is FOR THEIR OWN GOOD! Nobody here hurts and kills dogs cause they LIKE to, they do it CAUSE THEY NEED TO. They’re POWERLESS in the face of THEIR OWN HUMAN NATURE to fear and hurt and kill what they DO NOT UNDERSTAND. "If You Talk With The Animals, They Will Talk With You And You Will Know Each Other. If You Do Not Talk To Them, You Will Not Know Them, And What You Do Not Know You Will Fear. What One Fears, One Destroys," Chief Dan George, adapted with permission from his FREE copy of my FREE Wits’ End Dog Training Method manual available for FREE at http://www.doggydoright.com "It is by muteness that a dog becomes so utterly beyond value." Like a confessor Priest? Don’t bet your dog won’t tell on you… Their behaviors reflect our words, actions and training quirks. Jerry HOWE. j;~) >  Thanks!

There’s a free text to speech reader at http://www.readplease.com Do all the exercises and you’ll have a superdog in a couple days… Your pal, Jerry "The PHONY," Howe. j;~) The Wits’ End Dog Training Method Jerry Howe Copyright 2001 Phone: 1-888-WITSEND TABLE OF CONTENTS INTRODUCTION 3 HOW IS WITS’ END DOG TRAINING DIFFERENT? 4 PART I 1. METHODOLOGY 6 1A. Common Misunderstandings 7 1B. Learn Today! 9 2. GETTING STARTED 12 2A. First Things First: Proper Lead Handling 12 2B. What is a Conditioned Reflex? 14 2C. How to Install a Conditioned Reflex and Teach Any Command in Minutes 15 3. The "Hot" and "Cold" Exercise 19 4. The "Family Pack Leadership" exercise 20 5. Practicing the "Recall" or "Come" Command 22 6. Teach Any Command Through Conditioned Reflex 23 7. Use Sound to Break Bad Behavior! 24 7A. Other Examples of Sound to Correct Bad Behavior 26 7B. Unacceptable Expressions of Dominance 27 7C. More Subtle Examples of Unacceptable Dominance 28 7D. How to Correct Mouthing 29 7E. No Dogs on Beds! And Other Problems 33 7F. Housebreaking Technique 8. Roll-Over on the Alpha Rollover 34 The Alpha Rollover 34 9. Separation Anxiety Surrogate Toy Technique 36 9A.The Soggy Potato Chip Theory 37 10. THE WITS’ END DOG TRAINING METHOD 38 10A. State Conditioned Learning 10B.Training Behaviors Using Territorial Instinct 10C. Anchoring And Triggering States Of Mind 10D. Escape, Fence Jumping, Border/Perimiter Training PART II 1. OBEDIENCE 46 2. ASK YOUR DOG TO WORK 47 2A. Back to Work 48 2B. Stay 49 2C. Sit From the Side 49 2D. Heel vs. Return to Heel 50 2E. Sit From the Front 51 3. THE HEELING PATTERN EXERCISE 52 3A. Down From the Side 56 3B. Leave Your Dog on a Stay Command 57 3C. Returning to the Heel Position 58 3D. Down From the Front 59 4. PRACTICING LONG STAY COMMANDS 60 5. STAND 62 Introduction The Wits’ End Dog Training Method is the fastest, gentlest, most effective, comprehensive behavior modification/obedience and protection training technique available anywhere… And now, it’s FREE!!! It’s copyright 2001 information, so be advised: use it wisely, and use it often; use, copy, and distribute it in it its entirety or none at all. Our no force, no nonsense, no negative re-enforcement approach is unique, systematic, and unconventional, which means no dog is too young, too old, too large, too small, too stubborn, too stupid or too bad, to train. Specializing in problem dog behavior compelled us to research new methods to instruct humans as well as canines. Not everyone needs formal obedience training, but you do need a dog you can live with, starting today, not after lengthy training, not after your dog matures, not when it’s too late! This requires a basic understanding of how your dog thinks and learns. That, and the "Family Pack Leadership" exercise, coupled with teaching the "recall" or "come" command, are all that one needs to effectively control the companion dog. The mistakes your dog makes are neither mistakes nor accidents. They are instinctive challenges to your leadership and authority. Wits’ End Dog Training anticipates these impending mistakes inherent to each phase of training, and relies on them to turn the tables psychologically on your pet to convince him you are his appropriate leader, and make him want to do anything you ask. Wits’ End Dog Training is easy, quick, and foolproof, and works with every time, with every canine, even wolves! The ability to think, rationalize, and solve problems are learned qualities. Our enlightened methods challenge the learning centers in your dog’s brain. These centers develop and continue to grow exponentially. Wits’ End Dog Training capitalizes on praising split seconds of canine thought, strategy, and timing, not mindless hours of forced repetition, constant corrections, and scolding. This manual will provide all the tools you will need to learn properly to handle and train your dog. We will address the most difficult behaviors with effective tools, real answers, and common sense advice. Successful completion of our program means you will never need another dog-training lesson again! We train you to use the most effective, positive, intelligent formulas, based on scientific, psychological, and behavioral principles, and accelerated learning techniques. We will teach you how dogs learn, and how to apply our thirty-six years of knowledge and experience to convince your dog to do anything you ask, the first time, every time! How is Wits’ End Dog Training Different? Wits’ End Dog Training methodology is not concerned with "training," but rather teaching the development of the thought process, molding and safeguarding the proper development of personality, stable … read more »

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> HOWEDY Black Topaz, > I would appreciate any advice from experienced trainers > I doubt that very much. Most of our trainers are incompetent > fools who hurt dogs because they fear dogs makin fools outta > them, injuring their fragile egos by EMBARRASSING THEM > and COSTIN THEM MONEY. So they stick together and BLAME > THE DOG for not being well bred enough to respect their tormentors. > They’ll fight to the death to defend their pronged spiked pinch > choke and shock collars and GL NECKBREAKER devices and > crates to lock their ill trained dogs in so they’re not holding the > bag for NOT BEING ABLE to TRAIN the puppy. > on suitable (safe) training collars for small/toy breeds, > I’ve specialized in temperament and behavior and protection > problems in mostly giant breed dogs for forty years. I train > a toy dog exactly the same as I do a giant aggressive dog. > There’s NO DIFFERENCE. A dog is a dog and must not > be hurt punished confronted or irresponsibly confined and > cruelly ignored because IT is asking for his mommy. > Crate training causes separation anxiet fear of thunder > and car sicknes… Collar training causes shyness, hyperactivity, > aggression and ALL COMPULSIVE BEHAVIOR DISORDERS. > and > And I’m gettin tired of arguing with rabid dog abusing lying Thugs > about it. Any trainer who uses a force or pain or corrective method > or device is a dog killer, BECAUSE THAT’S THE TRUTH. > ALL ANIMAL BEHAVIOR PROBLEMS ARE CAUSED BY MISHANDLING. ALL DOG BEHAVIOR > PROBLMES CAN > BE EXTINGUISHED AS SOON AS YOU STOP OPPOSING > HURTING INTIMIDATING CONFRONTING AND PUNISHING > YOUR DOG. > whether leash corrections should be used at all with these dogs. > You mean you question the wisdom of choking your puppy to teach > IT to want to love respect and follow you through the gates of heel? > GOOD POINT! > The only thing you got to hear is our dog lovers are lying > dog abusing Thugs and the proof is they’ll call me and > my 100% successful students liars, paid shills for Jerry, > sock puppets, forgeries, and animal fuckers. > That’s the state of the art here. Ask anybody here about using > your FREE copy of my FREE Wits’ End Dog Training Method > manual. They’ll tell you its dangerous and ineffective and they’ll > give you dozens or reasons for not trusting Jerry and his success. > Our dog lovers are liars and dog abusers and I’ve proven it. They > have no shame, only such fear that would allow them to continue > to face daily embarrassment in front of new readers like you. > They’re counting on the fact that if you’re not one of them, you’ll > dry up and blow away and our forum will retain ONLY the liars > and dog abusers who post here calling me and all other competent > trainers liars, to protect their alleged right to choke shock and kill > the dogs they cannot hurt and intimidate into respecting their > AUTHORITY. > We don’t have animal behavior problems we have HUMAN NATURE > problems. FEARING, HURTING and KILLING DOGS IS THEIR > HUMAN NATURE. Most of our dog lovers are koehler and shock > and pronged spiked pinch choke collar fans. > Any trainer who calles themself a BALANCED trainer is a goddamned > liar trying to defend his INABILITY to handle and train a dog without > HURTING them. > harnesses are the only option; buckle collar high on > neck around ears with one finger width underneath; martingale collars > OK; tiny prongs OK. > Bottom line is ANY touch while the dog is THINKING triggers > thigmotaxis an inhibits the dog from processing THOUGTS other > than the one he’s fixated on at the moment of pressure. >I am aware that > You’re aware of NUTHIN. You’re aware of the LIES and PRECONCIEVED > MISCONCEPTIONS our behaviorsts > are operating under. The universities that teach behaviorists > and endores alpha crating choke shock and punishemnt or > force training methods need to stop or have their licenses > to TEACH, revoked. > certain dogs have physical conditions that preclude use of > anything but a harness. > You mean certain dogs CAN’T BE HURT? That condition is > called being a living, thinking being, an animal, entrusted to > our care, management and HUMAN KINDNESS. > My first priority is the animal’s safety. > Well, safety is what provokes our dog lovers to hurt and kill their dogs. > All the EXCUSES our dog lovers rely on to justify hurting dogs is > FOR THEIR OWN GOOD! > Nobody here hurts and kills dogs cause they LIKE to, they do it > CAUSE THEY NEED TO. They’re POWERLESS in the face > of THEIR OWN HUMAN NATURE to fear and hurt and kill > what they DO NOT UNDERSTAND. > "If You Talk With The Animals, They Will Talk > With You And You Will Know Each Other. If > You Do Not Talk To Them, You Will Not Know > Them, And What You Do Not Know You Will Fear. > What One Fears, One Destroys," Chief Dan George, > adapted with permission from his FREE copy of my > FREE Wits’ End Dog Training Method manual available > for FREE at http://www.doggydoright.com > "It is by muteness that a dog becomes so utterly beyond value." > Like a confessor Priest? Don’t bet your dog won’t tell on you… > Their behaviors reflect our words, actions and training quirks. > Jerry HOWE. j;~) >  Thanks! > There’s a free text to speech reader at http://www.readplease.com > Do all the exercises and you’ll have a superdog in a couple days… > Your pal, Jerry "The PHONY," Howe. j;~) > The Wits’ End Dog Training Method > Jerry Howe > Copyright 2001 > Phone: 1-888-WITSEND > TABLE OF CONTENTS > INTRODUCTION 3 > HOW IS WITS’ END DOG TRAINING DIFFERENT? 4 > PART I > 1. METHODOLOGY 6 > 1A. Common Misunderstandings 7 > 1B. Learn Today! 9 > 2. GETTING STARTED 12 > 2A. First Things First: Proper Lead Handling 12 > 2B. What is a Conditioned Reflex? 14 > 2C. How to Install a Conditioned Reflex and Teach Any Command in Minutes 15 > 3. The "Hot" and "Cold" Exercise 19 > 4. The "Family Pack Leadership" exercise 20 > 5. Practicing the "Recall" or "Come" Command 22 > 6. Teach Any Command Through Conditioned Reflex 23 > 7. Use Sound to Break Bad Behavior! 24 > 7A. Other Examples of Sound to Correct Bad Behavior 26 > 7B. Unacceptable Expressions of Dominance 27 > 7C. More Subtle Examples of Unacceptable Dominance 28 > 7D. How to Correct Mouthing 29 > 7E. No Dogs on Beds! And Other Problems 33 > 7F. Housebreaking Technique > 8. Roll-Over on the Alpha Rollover 34 > The Alpha Rollover 34 > 9. Separation Anxiety Surrogate Toy Technique 36 > 9A.The Soggy Potato Chip Theory 37 > 10. THE WITS’ END DOG TRAINING METHOD 38 > 10A. State Conditioned Learning > 10B.Training Behaviors Using Territorial Instinct > 10C. Anchoring And Triggering States Of Mind > 10D. Escape, Fence Jumping, Border/Perimiter Training > PART II > 1. OBEDIENCE 46 > 2. ASK YOUR DOG TO WORK 47 > 2A. Back to Work 48 > 2B. Stay 49 > 2C. Sit From the Side 49 > 2D. Heel vs. Return to Heel 50 > 2E. Sit From the Front 51 > 3. THE HEELING PATTERN EXERCISE 52 > 3A. Down From the Side 56 > 3B. Leave Your Dog on a Stay Command 57 > 3C. Returning to the Heel Position 58 > 3D. Down From the Front 59 > 4. PRACTICING LONG STAY COMMANDS 60 > 5. STAND 62 > Introduction > The Wits’ End Dog Training Method is the fastest, gentlest, most effective, > comprehensive behavior modification/obedience and protection training > technique available anywhere… And now, it’s FREE!!! It’s copyright 2001 > information, so be advised: use it wisely, and use it often; use, copy, and > distribute it in it its entirety or none at all. > Our no force, no nonsense, no negative re-enforcement approach is unique, > systematic, and unconventional, which means no dog is too young, too old, > too large, too small, too stubborn, too stupid or too bad, to train. > Specializing in problem dog behavior compelled us to research new methods to > instruct humans as well as canines. > Not everyone needs formal obedience training, but you do need a dog you can > live with, starting today, not after lengthy training, not after your dog > matures, not when it’s too late! This requires a basic understanding of how > your dog thinks and learns. That, and the "Family Pack Leadership" exercise, > coupled with teaching the "recall" or "come" command, are all that one needs > to effectively control the companion dog. > The mistakes your dog makes are neither mistakes nor accidents. They are > instinctive challenges to your leadership and authority. Wits’ End Dog > Training anticipates these impending mistakes inherent to each phase of > training, and relies on them to turn the tables psychologically on your pet > to convince him you are his appropriate leader, and make him want to do > anything you ask. Wits’ End Dog Training is easy, quick, and foolproof, and > works with every time, with every canine, even wolves! > The ability to think, rationalize, and solve problems are learned qualities. > Our enlightened methods challenge the learning centers in your dog’s brain. > These centers develop and continue to grow exponentially. Wits’ End Dog > Training capitalizes on praising split seconds of canine thought, strategy, > and timing, not mindless hours of forced repetition, constant corrections, > and scolding. > This manual will provide all the tools you will need to learn properly to > handle and train your dog. We will address the most difficult behaviors with > effective tools, real answers, and common sense advice. Successful > completion of our program means you will never need another dog-training > lesson again! > We train

… read more »

Response:

HOWEDY Black Topaz,

> I would appreciate any advice from experienced trainers

I doubt that very much. Most of our trainers are incompetent fools who hurt dogs because they fear dogs makin fools outta them, injuring their fragile egos by EMBARRASSING THEM and COSTIN THEM MONEY. So they stick together and BLAME THE DOG for not being well bred enough to respect their tormentors. They’ll fight to the death to defend their pronged spiked pinch choke and shock collars and GL NECKBREAKER devices and crates to lock their ill trained dogs in so they’re not holding the bag for NOT BEING ABLE to TRAIN the puppy. > on suitable (safe) training collars for small/toy breeds,

I’ve specialized in temperament and behavior and protection problems in mostly giant breed dogs for forty years. I train a toy dog exactly the same as I do a giant aggressive dog. There’s NO DIFFERENCE. A dog is a dog and must not be hurt punished confronted or irresponsibly confined and cruelly ignored because IT is asking for his mommy. Crate training causes separation anxiet fear of thunder and car sicknes… Collar training causes shyness, hyperactivity, aggression and ALL COMPULSIVE BEHAVIOR DISORDERS. > and

And I’m gettin tired of arguing with rabid dog abusing lying Thugs about it. Any trainer who uses a force or pain or corrective method or device is a dog killer, BECAUSE THAT’S THE TRUTH. ALL ANIMAL BEHAVIOR PROBLEMS ARE CAUSED BY MISHANDLING. ALL DOG BEHAVIOR PROBLMES CAN BE EXTINGUISHED AS SOON AS YOU STOP OPPOSING HURTING INTIMIDATING CONFRONTING AND PUNISHING YOUR DOG. > whether leash corrections should be used at all with these dogs.

You mean you question the wisdom of choking your puppy to teach IT to want to love respect and follow you through the gates of heel? GOOD POINT!

The only thing you got to hear is our dog lovers are lying dog abusing Thugs and the proof is they’ll call me and my 100% successful students liars, paid shills for Jerry, sock puppets, forgeries, and animal fuckers. That’s the state of the art here. Ask anybody here about using your FREE copy of my FREE Wits’ End Dog Training Method manual. They’ll tell you its dangerous and ineffective and they’ll give you dozens or reasons for not trusting Jerry and his success. Our dog lovers are liars and dog abusers and I’ve proven it. They have no shame, only such fear that would allow them to continue to face daily embarrassment in front of new readers like you. They’re counting on the fact that if you’re not one of them, you’ll dry up and blow away and our forum will retain ONLY the liars and dog abusers who post here calling me and all other competent trainers liars, to protect their alleged right to choke shock and kill the dogs they cannot hurt and intimidate into respecting their AUTHORITY. We don’t have animal behavior problems we have HUMAN NATURE problems. FEARING, HURTING and KILLING DOGS IS THEIR HUMAN NATURE. Most of our dog lovers are koehler and shock and pronged spiked pinch choke collar fans. Any trainer who calles themself a BALANCED trainer is a goddamned liar trying to defend his INABILITY to handle and train a dog without HURTING them. > harnesses are the only option; buckle collar high on > neck around ears with one finger width underneath; martingale collars > OK; tiny prongs OK.

Bottom line is ANY touch while the dog is THINKING triggers thigmotaxis an inhibits the dog from processing THOUGTS other than the one he’s fixated on at the moment of pressure. >I am aware that

You’re aware of NUTHIN. You’re aware of the LIES and PRECONCIEVED MISCONCEPTIONS our behaviorsts are operating under. The universities that teach behaviorists and endores alpha crating choke shock and punishemnt or force training methods need to stop or have their licenses to TEACH, revoked. > certain dogs have physical conditions that preclude use of > anything but a harness.

You mean certain dogs CAN’T BE HURT? That condition is called being a living, thinking being, an animal, entrusted to our care, management and HUMAN KINDNESS. > My first priority is the animal’s safety.

Well, safety is what provokes our dog lovers to hurt and kill their dogs. All the EXCUSES our dog lovers rely on to justify hurting dogs is FOR THEIR OWN GOOD! Nobody here hurts and kills dogs cause they LIKE to, they do it CAUSE THEY NEED TO. They’re POWERLESS in the face of THEIR OWN HUMAN NATURE to fear and hurt and kill what they DO NOT UNDERSTAND. "If You Talk With The Animals, They Will Talk With You And You Will Know Each Other. If You Do Not Talk To Them, You Will Not Know Them, And What You Do Not Know You Will Fear. What One Fears, One Destroys," Chief Dan George, adapted with permission from his FREE copy of my FREE Wits’ End Dog Training Method manual available for FREE at http://www.doggydoright.com "It is by muteness that a dog becomes so utterly beyond value." Like a confessor Priest? Don’t bet your dog won’t tell on you… Their behaviors reflect our words, actions and training quirks. Jerry HOWE. j;~) >  Thanks!

There’s a free text to speech reader at http://www.readplease.com Do all the exercises and you’ll have a superdog in a couple days… Your pal, Jerry "The PHONY," Howe. j;~) The Wits’ End Dog Training Method Jerry Howe Copyright 2001 Phone: 1-888-WITSEND TABLE OF CONTENTS INTRODUCTION 3 HOW IS WITS’ END DOG TRAINING DIFFERENT? 4 PART I 1. METHODOLOGY 6 1A. Common Misunderstandings 7 1B. Learn Today! 9 2. GETTING STARTED 12 2A. First Things First: Proper Lead Handling 12 2B. What is a Conditioned Reflex? 14 2C. How to Install a Conditioned Reflex and Teach Any Command in Minutes 15 3. The "Hot" and "Cold" Exercise 19 4. The "Family Pack Leadership" exercise 20 5. Practicing the "Recall" or "Come" Command 22 6. Teach Any Command Through Conditioned Reflex 23 7. Use Sound to Break Bad Behavior! 24 7A. Other Examples of Sound to Correct Bad Behavior 26 7B. Unacceptable Expressions of Dominance 27 7C. More Subtle Examples of Unacceptable Dominance 28 7D. How to Correct Mouthing 29 7E. No Dogs on Beds! And Other Problems 33 7F. Housebreaking Technique 8. Roll-Over on the Alpha Rollover 34 The Alpha Rollover 34 9. Separation Anxiety Surrogate Toy Technique 36 9A.The Soggy Potato Chip Theory 37 10. THE WITS’ END DOG TRAINING METHOD 38 10A. State Conditioned Learning 10B.Training Behaviors Using Territorial Instinct 10C. Anchoring And Triggering States Of Mind 10D. Escape, Fence Jumping, Border/Perimiter Training PART II 1. OBEDIENCE 46 2. ASK YOUR DOG TO WORK 47 2A. Back to Work 48 2B. Stay 49 2C. Sit From the Side 49 2D. Heel vs. Return to Heel 50 2E. Sit From the Front 51 3. THE HEELING PATTERN EXERCISE 52 3A. Down From the Side 56 3B. Leave Your Dog on a Stay Command 57 3C. Returning to the Heel Position 58 3D. Down From the Front 59 4. PRACTICING LONG STAY COMMANDS 60 5. STAND 62 Introduction The Wits’ End Dog Training Method is the fastest, gentlest, most effective, comprehensive behavior modification/obedience and protection training technique available anywhere… And now, it’s FREE!!! It’s copyright 2001 information, so be advised: use it wisely, and use it often; use, copy, and distribute it in it its entirety or none at all. Our no force, no nonsense, no negative re-enforcement approach is unique, systematic, and unconventional, which means no dog is too young, too old, too large, too small, too stubborn, too stupid or too bad, to train. Specializing in problem dog behavior compelled us to research new methods to instruct humans as well as canines. Not everyone needs formal obedience training, but you do need a dog you can live with, starting today, not after lengthy training, not after your dog matures, not when it’s too late! This requires a basic understanding of how your dog thinks and learns. That, and the "Family Pack Leadership" exercise, coupled with teaching the "recall" or "come" command, are all that one needs to effectively control the companion dog. The mistakes your dog makes are neither mistakes nor accidents. They are instinctive challenges to your leadership and authority. Wits’ End Dog Training anticipates these impending mistakes inherent to each phase of training, and relies on them to turn the tables psychologically on your pet to convince him you are his appropriate leader, and make him want to do anything you ask. Wits’ End Dog Training is easy, quick, and foolproof, and works with every time, with every canine, even wolves! The ability to think, rationalize, and solve problems are learned qualities. Our enlightened methods challenge the learning centers in your dog’s brain. These centers develop and continue to grow exponentially. Wits’ End Dog Training capitalizes on praising split seconds of canine thought, strategy, and timing, not mindless hours of forced repetition, constant corrections, and scolding. This manual will provide all the tools you will need to learn properly to handle and train your dog. We will address the most difficult behaviors with effective tools, real answers, and common sense advice. Successful completion of our program means you will never need another dog-training lesson again! We train you to use the most effective, positive, intelligent formulas, based on scientific, psychological, and behavioral principles, and accelerated learning techniques. We will teach you how dogs learn, and how to apply our thirty-six years of knowledge and experience to convince your dog to do anything you ask, the first time, every time! How is Wits’ End Dog Training Different? Wits’ End Dog Training methodology is not concerned with "training," but rather teaching the development of the thought process, molding and safeguarding the proper development of personality, stable … read more »

Response:

Category Categories: Dog Behavior Aggressive | Comments No Comments »

Fear Biter? "Warning: Sometimes The Corrections Will Seem Quite Harsh AndCause You To Cringe.This Is A Normal Reaction The First FewTimes It Happens, But You'll Get Over It." mike dufort, Author: "Courteous Canine"

Question:

Hello diana,

> Hi, > [..] > 99% of the time it’s very happy and sociable, but lately he’s begun > growling at the kids, and even once at my girlfriend. He’s now even > gone so far as to jump up on one the kids friend’s, growling. > From what I’ve read so far, it seems he may be a fear biter.Even when he > was only a couple of weeks old, he’s always been kind of timid. > [..]

Shove, diana. > This is really very common in young dogs

INDEED. It’s just killed three or four dogs right here in the last couple months. > as they go through their ‘teenage crisis’ stage.

That’s a load of horseshit, diana. These behavior problems are CAUSED by the mishandling you prefer to recommend to people. My students do not have a "rebellious adolescent" STAGE in response to their repressive mishandling like you and your ‘expert’ pals who jerk and choke and shock and beat and hang dogs to train them. > Just like people, he’s getting to grips with his identity and > it is a very difficult stage for a dog.

That’s BULLSHIT. The dog is objecting to being HURT and INTIMIDATED as you and your pals teach. >  Good positive and fun socialisation is vital at this point.

Ain’t you a freakin prize, you miserable double talking Thug. > Don’t let the children corner him

Children cornering him will not make him feel CORNERED unless they’re playing some alphalpha crap games and trying to punish or intimidate him. That’s what makes cornered dogs bite. FEAR. What’s a dog to FEAR from a child PLAYING with him in a corner? NOTHING, unless that child is copying what his mommy and daddy do to him and his puppy, diana. That’s HOWE COME you tell people to killfile Jerry and make hundreds of complaints to my ISP diana. I’ve EXPOSED you and your CHUMP CHUMS who NEED to dominate and intimidate their dogs to compensate for your fragile defective ego’s and weak minds, diana. The truth HURTS, don’t it? BWWWAAHAHAHAHAAAA!!! I’m the cruelest dog trainer in history, ain’t I, diana? And I don’t even touch dogs to train them. > or pull him around and ask that they remain calm around him,

Like mommy and daddy when they correct and train them??? > but all the time they are around he should be praised and rewarded and > really learn to associate the presence of kids with having a great time. The > kids can be rewarded for their efforts afterwards with candy bribes ~ so > everyone wins! (except maybe your wallet!)

You’re one sick bitch. You gonna teach children bribery? > It’s possible that the growling has coincided with the start of his puppy > training, once he started being disciplined. The trainer was pretty rough > on him, I’m wondering if that did more harm than good… Can’t be too sure > about that, though. > Don’t let ANYONE bully or mess your dog about.

Oh? What’s BULLY? > He’s your dog and depends on you for security

AMAZING! > You’ve got to live with him, not the trainer, so you want > to ensure he is happy and stable, feels secure and has no fears.

He’s paying the trainer to HELP him. > You point out he is of nervous nature. If you feel uncomfortable ~ like in an > interview situation, and someone starts pulling you around, how are you > going to react?

I dunno. All depends. > ~ and in the same situation, if someone pulls you up a chair, offers you > coffee and really makes it clear they are pleased to see you, then are you > more likely to try and give your best back?

I might not drink the coffee and look for a tack on the seat. And I certainly wouldn’t accept any advice from the likes of you, diana. > My sister definitely doesn’t want the dogs around the kids anymore, but > I’m wondering whether I should take it or not. The dog seems to be really > happy around me and my girlfriend, is it possible to train this out of him? Do I > need to put him down? > I sort of can’t blame her for not wanting him, and it sounds like this big > dog needs more attention than she might have as a busy mum, otherwise she > might have noticed and been able to stop this ever becoming a problem.

This problem is a direct result of his training. As for big, a big dog ain’t big problems, unless you provoke them. > If you would like to take this dog it would be great,

You think that would be great, diana? You think the family who raised their dog only to have his life ripped off by a professional trainer agree that would be GREAT, diana? > but remember that he will require a fair bit of work from you at first to > get this problem sorted before it escalates ~ and the very last thing you > need is some ‘trainer’ jerking him about.

Right, what he needs is a nice shock collar, diana. I recommend FRAUDreck and his tritronics brand of medical grade static like stimulation. > Look for socialisation classes ~

Like the ones janet boss and lying "I LOVE KOEHLER" lynn and twzl run? > ask around, maybe at your vets,

Yeah, an excellent idea. Find a other professional trainer who’ll HANG this dog and fix him up right. > may be look in the paper ~

Yeah! > there are people here who may be able to recommend contacts /

Sure! Our carol levie went to see our boob maida for dog aggression and he sent her to his competitor so she wouldn’t have to come back here and admit that boob could only teach her to HURT her dog. So his competitor taught her HOWE to HURT her dog, and she came outta there with her dog snapping at her in the presence of other dogs. And our cindy long took her dog Buck to see FRAUDreck, and didn’t have any LUCK there either. But I did. She confirmed that Buck trembled for a couple days following his shocking experiences. > places in your area. Keep ‘bribery’ with you at all times.

You’re an idiot, diana. > Any difficult / scary situations ( from your dogs point of view) need gentle > handling and loads of praise and reward for overcoming ~

Sure, tell it somewhere else. > without turning him in to a big cry baby…

Thanks for all the advice, diana. You did find the advice in your FREE copy of my FREE Wits’ End Dog Training Method manual to be effective on your own dog’s fear aggression, didn’t you diana? The reason you hate me is cause you can’t stop punishing and confining your dog, because that makes you FEEL insecure… > Diana

You need to get the heel outta here, diana. Check this out, good buddy:  "Warning: Sometimes The Corrections Will Seem Quite Harsh And  Cause You To Cringe. This Is A Normal Reaction The First Few  Times It Happens, But You’ll Get Over It." mike duforth, author:  "Courteous Canine."   "Nope. That "beating dogs with sticks" things is   something you twisted out of context, because you   are full of bizarro manure."

>Di, > I don’t believe you mentioned a particular kind of training. If you > are interested in training retrieval behavior than do consider > our own Amy Dahl’s: > The 10-Minute Retriever : How to Make a Well-Mannered, Obedient and > Enthusiastic Gun Dog in 10 Minutes a Day > by John I. Dahl, Amy Dahl

You failed to mention your pals the dahls are proven liars and dog abusers, professor "SCRUFF SHAKE:"  "I Would Never Advise Anyone To Slap A Dog I Do Not Believe There  Is A Single Circumstance Ever, Where Slapping A Dog Is Anything  But Destructive," "I don’t see why anyone would want to choke or  beat a dog, or how any trainer could possibly get a good working dog by  making them unhapper, fearful, cowering, etc." sez amy lying frosty dahl  who continues: > just $17.95 at Amazon.com. > (Also, it is best to killfile posts from the few regulars here who > are either ill-tempered, ill-mannered, or just plain ill.) > –Marshall

amy lying frosty dahl continues:  "On the other extreme, the really hard dogs we have trained  require much more frequent and heavy application of  pressure (PAIN j.h.) to get the job done,  This is continued resistance to your increasing authority, and the  job is not done until it is overcome  Get A 30"- 40" Stick.You can have a helper wield the stick, or do it  yourself. Tougher,  less tractable dogs may require you to progress to  striking them more sharply  Try pinching the ear between the metal casing and the collar,  even the  buckle on the collar. Persist! Eventually, the dog will give in  but will squeal, thrash around, and direct their efforts to escaping the  ear pinch  You can press the dog’s ear with a shotshell instead of your thumb  even get a studded collar and pinch the ear against that  Make the dog’s need to stop the pinching so urgent that resisting  your will fades in importance.  CHUCK IT Under ITS Chin With That Ever Ready Right Hand,  As it catches on, try using the stick and no ear pinch. When the  dog is digging out to beat the stick and seems totally reliable without  any ear pinch, you are finished  This is continued resistance to your increasing authority,  and the job is not done until it is overcome" If the dog drops it, chuck  it solidly under the chin, say "No! Hold!"  (stay on the ear until it does) (perhaps because the ear is getting  tender, or the dog has decided it isn’t worth it)" lying frosty dahl.  "Chin cuff absolutely does not mean slap," professora gingold. > > Jerome Bigge writes: > > I do know that hitting, hurting your dog will often make the > > dog either aggressive or a fear biter, neither of which we

 > > > want to do. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> And neither does anyone else, Jerome.  No matter what Jerry Howe > states. > –Matt.  Rocky’s a Dog. > You’re scary Marilyn. > Marilyn must be quite a disturbed individual.  I feel very sorry > for her and her family. > BUT, giving you the benefit of the doubt,  please

… read more »

Response:

Hello Norman,

> Hi, > My sister’s dog has been exhibiting strange behaviour lately.

Dog’s don’t have strange behaviors unless they’re ill. Dog behaviors are normal, natural, instinctive, reflexive responses to situations and conditions of their environment that WE provide for them. > He’s a 1 year old Lab crossed with a German short-haired pointer, and is

*extremely* active. "Extremely active" is CAUSED by inappropriate and ineffective handling. > I’ve been around him since birth, I guess I am what is termed the > "alpha" person in his pack.

The alpha theory is BUNK. > 99% of the time it’s very happy and sociable,

Is it now? > but lately he’s begun growling at the kids, and even once at my girlfriend. > He’s now even gone so far as to jump up on one the kids friend’s,

growling. At the age of 9-12 months they come into adulthood… > From what I’ve read so far, it seems he may be a fear biter.Even when he was > only a couple of weeks old, he’s always been kind of timid.

No problem. We’ve got techniques that will fix it. > It’s possible that the growling has coincided with the start of his puppy > training, once he started being disciplined.

That’s HOWE COME Jerry don’t train like our "experts." Our "experts" hurt and kill their dogs and blame it on bad breeding or the handler being too lenient. > The trainer was pretty rough on him,

Yeah. Our DOG LOVERS here think HURTIN dogs is NORMAL: "Warning: Sometimes The Corrections Will Seem Quite Harsh And Cause You To Cringe. This Is A Normal Reaction The First Few Times It Happens, But You’ll Get Over It." mike duforth, author: "Courteous Canine." Whaddya think of a stupid vicious bastard like that mike duforth? That’s cause the dog was being stubborn or aggressive. Our ‘experts’ are afraid of dog’s behaviors that  they cannot train, so they hurt the dog so they won’t be thrown outta their HOWESes for being BAD. Then the dogs get aggressive from being HURT and INTIMIDATED and locked in a box and left to cry till  they’re quiet before you let them out… and then jerk and choke the dogs on their pronged spiked pinch choke collar and before ya know it, we got CHEDDAR. We’ve already killed about a half dozen dogs on our forum this year. Where the heel is ed w of petloss dot con when ya need him?  Hey eddie??? Tell our poster HOWE to find his koehler book (pronounced keeler by georgie cockroach). > I’m wondering if that did more harm than good…

I’d stake my life your "expert trainer" is about to get your dog DEAD. Again. They’re USED to this, they GOT OVER IT as mikes sez. They HAVE to GET OVER IT, cause the do this to about 10% of their dogs. Only their BEST dogs get DEAD. The rest of ‘em get along o.k. being hurt and intimidated and still others like FRAUDreck’s K0 Maddy and lying "I LOVE KOEHLER" lynn’s SAR dog Jive stand out as representatives of the very best you’ll ever get from a force trainer, a FAKE dog. NEITHER of those two chumpion dogs can WORK, although they do great in their trials, when the dog THINKS he can be HURT cause the trials SEEM like their regular classes where they’re jerked and choked and shocked and beaten with sticks and much, much, moore. > Can’t be too sure about that, though.

I can. I’ll stake my life on it. Care to take up a law suite, I’ll be happy to present expert witness testimony for you in court for FREE (expenses only). All I’ll need is a review of everything you were taught, and I’ll point out exactly HOWE that caused other seemingly non related behavior problems… > My sister definitely doesn’t want the dogs around the kids anymore,

Not surprising. She’s afraid of him now, thanks to her fearful trainer. She was afraid before too, when she allowed an abusive trainer to mishandle him for her. I’ve seen this kinda crap happen often over the past forty years. I’m fixing to drop the hammer on the entire industry. Stick around, we’re gonna make them PAY. > but I’m wondering whether I should take it or not.

Absolutely not. Give your sister a FREE copy of your FREE copy of my FREE Wits’ End Dog Training Method manual and the dog will be better than good as new in a few days, maybe less. Charlie (his post below) came here with an aggression problem he CURED in ONE session using my gentle methods. > The dog seems to be really happy around me and my girlfriend, > is it possible to train this out of him?

Yes, but you’ll have to forget everything the "experts" tell you, cause the "experts" are the bums who brought you this problem. Our veterinarians and their behaviorists largely do EXACTLY the same as your "trainer" did, cause the "non force" trainers out there generally aren’t any better than the choke and shock and crate crowd. > Do I need to put him down?

You mean kill him. Nope. He’ll straighten out in a few days using my techniques. I’ve got the fastest, gentlest, most effective methods in the world. Your FREE copy of my FREE Wits’ End Dog Training Method manual available for FREE at http://www.doggydoright.com will teach you everything you need to know to bring your dog to any level of training you desire. > TIA,

Just ask me if you need any help with the method. It’s all FREE, despite what ed williams of pet loss dot CON tries to tell you. Our dog lovers HATE Jerry cause Jerry has EXPOSED and DISCREDITED them. j;~) > Norvin

Get your sister to study my manual Norvin. I know we’ll make him nice and safe FAST. Chris Williams writes:

"The FREE Wits’ End Dog Training Method manual I do find valuable. Much of it I recognize as what I’ve always done without thinking of it as "training". New stuff, I’ve used. His anchoring technique erased the last of Mac’s fireworks trauma." Ben writes:

Hi, Jerry. I’m not sure that I’m a 100% convert, or that I agree with (or even understand) 100% of what you say in this manual … BUT … we had "come" down pat in a few reps and you could have knocked me down when I tried the exercise with "drop" and, after a few reps in different spots Darwin practically *threw* the rubber ball at my feet on command. He’s still not perfect (just a pup, after all, and he’s stubborn enough to want to push and test me a little bit more). For what it’s worth, I can see (as no doubt you have) how your usenet manner is likely to rankle a few folks, but that woman who advocates ear pulling and beating with sticks deserves everything she gets. Even if that was the only method that would work, I’d live with my dog not fetching rather than do any of that. (Darwin fetches enthusiastically and instinctively, tho’). Best, ben

> I haven’t quite finished reading the FREE Wits’ End > Dog Training Method manual, but it already worked > miracles with our three dogs > The barking at the door has diminished so much that, > well, frankly, we’re stunned. > Anyway, your approach is amazing. > Melisand

Re: Barking Deterrants Needed… Hi. Please understand that I do not know Jerry and have spoken with him briefly once by email. I have no stake or interest in the success of  his business.  I simply want to thank him publicly for one of his tips, with regards to separation anxiety. I thought it seemed far fetched to praise a stuffed animal and then say good bye to my own dog, but I am usually a very open minded person, so I tried it. Well, lo and behold- the damn trick worked! I think Jerry has some intriguing techniques, and personally I think everyone who constantly criticizes him is not understanding his logic. Thank you Jerry! Kitty Will Too) Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs.behavior View: Complete Thread (271 articles) | Original Format After using Jerry’s training manual, I became curious about the Doggy Do Right (DDR) machine, and a few weeks ago I received one. I thought the group might be interested in some things I’ve noticed since using it.  (This is a bit of an understatement as I certainly expect a flurry of responses… most of them will probably be nasty. But we’ll see.) Anyway, at first I would leave it on only when I left the house, but one day I forgot and left it on all night. My dogs used to wake me up between 8 and 8:30 a.m.  The morning after I left it on all night, they slept until 9:30 a.m.  At first I wondered why they had slept in so late, and then I noticed that the DDR was on. (And no, I’m not an early riser.)  :-) Now they consistently sleep until 9:30 or 10:00 a.m., unless I wake them up earlier.  One night the power went out, and the DDR was switched off.  They woke me around 8:30 that day. The second thing was something my husband noticed.  If the light on the DDR is flashing, it is in "rest" mode…when it’s solid, it is playing the program.  He came home, the dogs were doing their usual growl and "bitey face" rowdiness… when the machine’s light became solid (program on), they laid down in the same room with the machine. Pepper even laid on her side and started taking a little nap. Often, I will see the dogs in the room with the DDR when the program is playing, usually around their nap time. That is, they will nap in the same room as the machine and not in other areas of the house… even though their "preferred" sleeping spot at other times seems to be my bed. The last two things I’ve noticed have been with my 7 yr old Dalmatian, Beau.  He is normally terrified of thunderstorms, so much that he will try to crawl into my lap, or he will shake and shed hair everywhere. (Shedding hair is a symptom of stress I suppose… he does the same thing at the vet’s.)  On Sunday, we had a really severe thunderstorm, with hail, etc.  When the storm began, I turned the machine to play mode.  He laid on the … read more »

Response:

Category Categories: Dog Behavior Aggressive | Comments No Comments »

Shock Collar question

Question:

I’ve posted on here pretty consistently over the past month that I’ve had my dog, so I hope that you guys have gotten to know me well enough and know that I would never intentionally do anything that would hurt my puppy, either physically or mentally.  However, someone had suggested that I get a remote-control shock collar to help get rid of bad behaviors.  While I have absolutely no intention of using this on my dog, it does have a few advantages that I can think of. First of all, I’ve used a spray bottle with some diluted Bitter Apple to get help train her not to bite or pull on clothes, and that’s worked really well.  I’d say "No", then spritz her whenever she did that, and she stopped that really quickly.  So I think a "No" followed by an unpleasant (yet harmless) event (getting spritzed) seems to work pretty well to stop that. However, the main reason that this worked was because well, she had to be right near me in order to chew on my arm or clothes. If I’m sitting on the couch in the family room and I see her chewing on the chair in the dining room, however, I can’t immediately say "No" and spritz her, since I need to walk over to her first.  Just saying "No" distracts her for a few seconds, but when I turn away, she starts doing it again.  If I could somehow say "No" and follow that with some unpleasant event from a distance, I’m guessing that she would stop doing it a lot quicker.  Plus, if that unpleasant event happens even when I’m not right next to her, she’ll probably avoid doing it even when I’m not there. Another good thing about this that I can think of is that it could potentially work the same way as clicker training does.  Instead of clicking at the exact point that the desired behavior occurs (ie, as soon as her butt hits the floor to "sit"), I could shock once she starts doing something she shouldn’t be doing (ie, as soon as she bites down on the chair).  The obvious difference, though, between a shock collar and a spritz bottle or a clicker is that a shock collar could be much more harmful. What are everyone’s thoughts on this, and can anyone think of any safer ways of doing this?

Response:

>I’ve posted on here pretty consistently over the past month that I’ve had my >dog, so I hope that you guys have gotten to know me well enough and know >that I would never intentionally do anything that would hurt my puppy, >either physically or mentally.  However, someone had suggested that I get a >remote-control shock collar to help get rid of bad behaviors.  While I have >absolutely no intention of using this on my dog,

<snip> Pretty much the end of subject. then. –Cindy

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I’ve posted on here pretty consistently over the past month that I’ve had my > dog, so I hope that you guys have gotten to know me well enough and know > that I would never intentionally do anything that would hurt my puppy, > either physically or mentally.  However, someone had suggested that I get a > remote-control shock collar to help get rid of bad behaviors.  While I have > absolutely no intention of using this on my dog, it does have a few > advantages that I can think of. > First of all, I’ve used a spray bottle with some diluted Bitter Apple to get > help train her not to bite or pull on clothes, and that’s worked really > well.  I’d say "No", then spritz her whenever she did that, and she stopped > that really quickly.  So I think a "No" followed by an unpleasant (yet > harmless) event (getting spritzed) seems to work pretty well to stop that. > However, the main reason that this worked was because well, she had to be > right near me in order to chew on my arm or clothes. > If I’m sitting on the couch in the family room and I see her chewing on the > chair in the dining room, however, I can’t immediately say "No" and spritz > her, since I need to walk over to her first.  Just saying "No" distracts her > for a few seconds, but when I turn away, she starts doing it again.  If I > could somehow say "No" and follow that with some unpleasant event from a > distance, I’m guessing that she would stop doing it a lot quicker.  Plus, if > that unpleasant event happens even when I’m not right next to her, she’ll > probably avoid doing it even when I’m not there. > Another good thing about this that I can think of is that it could > potentially work the same way as clicker training does.  Instead of clicking > at the exact point that the desired behavior occurs (ie, as soon as her butt > hits the floor to "sit"), I could shock once she starts doing something she > shouldn’t be doing (ie, as soon as she bites down on the chair).  The > obvious difference, though, between a shock collar and a spritz bottle or a > clicker is that a shock collar could be much more harmful. > What are everyone’s thoughts on this, and can anyone think of any safer ways > of doing this?

Dear Stu, Believe it or not, Jerry gave us one of the very best suggestions. We filled a small can with pennies, closed it up, and whenever my dog did something wrong near us, we dropped or gently tossed the can with pennies near her.    I don’t know if it was the distraction, or what, but this worked like a charm.   It didn’t cost anything, and it worked well.   So why not try that instead? Also I must add that some of Jerry’s ideas are working fantastically with my daughters small dogs. Jerry if you are reading this, thanks much, but you are still on my killfile because your personality comes across in too irritating a manner for me. I am posting this in the interest of total honesty though. Regards, Evelyn

Response:

"Stu" wrote – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> First of all, I’ve used a spray bottle with some diluted Bitter Apple to get > help train her not to bite or pull on clothes, and that’s worked really > well.  I’d say "No", then spritz her whenever she did that, and she stopped > that really quickly.  So I think a "No" followed by an unpleasant (yet > harmless) event (getting spritzed) seems to work pretty well to stop that. > However, the main reason that this worked was because well, she had to be > right near me in order to chew on my arm or clothes. > If I’m sitting on the couch in the family room and I see her chewing on the > chair in the dining room, however, I can’t immediately say "No" and spritz > her, since I need to walk over to her first.  Just saying "No" distracts her > for a few seconds, but when I turn away, she starts doing it again.  If I > could somehow say "No" and follow that with some unpleasant event from a > distance, I’m guessing that she would stop doing it a lot quicker.  Plus, if > that unpleasant event happens even when I’m not right next to her, she’ll > probably avoid doing it even when I’m not there.

Let’s look at my case.  My puppy on 2 or 3 occasions took a bite out of a couch on the other side of the room.  Too bad, it was such a pretty couch. The bite was so quick that I didn’t have a chance to say anything coherent let alone have the presence of mind to say ‘NO’ and get a spritz bottle even if it was right next to me and spray her.  If I can’t get to a bottle fast enough, could I get to a zapper any faster? Talking out of the other side of my mouth, I wonder if it would frighten a dog and develop a negative association to have you repeatedly running at her screaming ‘NO!’ and spraying her?  I’m guessing that it wouldn’t take but a few times before she equated your coming to her (with or without a spritz bottle) as something less than pleasant.

Response:

> If I’m sitting on the couch in the family room and I see her chewing on the > chair in the dining room, however, I can’t immediately say "No" and spritz > her, since I need to walk over to her first.  Just saying "No" distracts her > for a few seconds, but when I turn away, she starts doing it again.  If I > could somehow say "No" and follow that with some unpleasant event from a > distance, I’m guessing that she would stop doing it a lot quicker.  Plus, if > that unpleasant event happens even when I’m not right next to her, she’ll > probably avoid doing it even when I’m not there.

    Hi Stu,            If you see her chewing and she hasn’t seen you , you could try throwing(lightly) something like a tennis ball at or near her. It’s not meant to hurt her but it makes her stop and think. If she hasn’t seen you , she’ll think there’s some all- seeing eye that watches her when you aren’t there.       Alison

Response:

Welcome to Wits’ End Dog Training School Of Hard Knocks, stu. diane blackman is in charge of registration and tara o is in charge of doling out the CHEDDAR. Jerry.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I’ve posted on here pretty consistently over the past month that I’ve had my > dog, so I hope that you guys have gotten to know me well enough and know > that I would never intentionally do anything that would hurt my puppy, > either physically or mentally.  However, someone had suggested that I get a > remote-control shock collar to help get rid of bad behaviors.  While I have > absolutely no intention of using this on my dog, it does have a few > advantages that I can think of. > First of all, I’ve used a spray bottle with some diluted Bitter Apple to get > help train her not to bite or pull on clothes, and that’s worked really > well.  I’d say "No", then spritz her whenever she did that, and she stopped > that really quickly.  So I think a "No" followed by an unpleasant (yet > harmless) event (getting spritzed) seems to work pretty well to stop that. > However, the main reason that this worked was because well, she had to be > right near me in order to chew on my arm or clothes. > If I’m sitting on the couch in the family room and I see her chewing on the > chair in the dining room, however, I can’t immediately say "No" and spritz > her, since I need to walk over to her first.  Just saying "No" distracts her > for a few seconds, but when I turn away, she starts doing it again. If I > could somehow say "No" and follow that with some unpleasant event from a > distance, I’m guessing that she would stop doing it a lot quicker. Plus, if > that unpleasant event happens even when I’m not right next to her, she’ll > probably avoid doing it even when I’m not there. > Another good thing about this that I can think of is that it could > potentially work the same way as clicker training does.  Instead of clicking > at the exact point that the desired behavior occurs (ie, as soon as her butt > hits the floor to "sit"), I could shock once she starts doing something she > shouldn’t be doing (ie, as soon as she bites down on the chair).  The > obvious difference, though, between a shock collar and a spritz bottle or a > clicker is that a shock collar could be much more harmful. > What are everyone’s thoughts on this, and can anyone think of any safer ways > of doing this?

Response:

Naahhh. That’s just the beginning. We’ll be talking about a lot of shock collar users here cindymooreon, like yourself and your Thug pals. You don’t encourage shocking dogs unless an expert like you or lying "I LOVE KOEHLER" lynn are burning the dog…

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->I’ve posted on here pretty consistently over the past month that I’ve had my >dog, so I hope that you guys have gotten to know me well enough and know >that I would never intentionally do anything that would hurt my puppy, >either physically or mentally.  However, someone had suggested that I get a >remote-control shock collar to help get rid of bad behaviors.  While I have >absolutely no intention of using this on my dog, > <snip> > Pretty much the end of subject. then. > –Cindy

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I’ve posted on here pretty consistently over the past month that I’ve had > my > dog, so I hope that you guys have gotten to know me well enough and know > that I would never intentionally do anything that would hurt my puppy, > either physically or mentally.  However, someone had suggested that I get > a > remote-control shock collar to help get rid of bad behaviors.  While I > have > absolutely no intention of using this on my dog, it does have a few > advantages that I can think of. > First of all, I’ve used a spray bottle with some diluted Bitter Apple to > get > help train her not to bite or pull on clothes, and that’s worked really > well.  I’d say "No", then spritz her whenever she did that, and she > stopped > that really quickly.  So I think a "No" followed by an unpleasant (yet > harmless) event (getting spritzed) seems to work pretty well to stop that. > However, the main reason that this worked was because well, she had to be > right near me in order to chew on my arm or clothes. > If I’m sitting on the couch in the family room and I see her chewing on > the > chair in the dining room, however, I can’t immediately say "No" and spritz > her, since I need to walk over to her first.  Just saying "No" distracts > her > for a few seconds, but when I turn away, she starts doing it again. If I > could somehow say "No" and follow that with some unpleasant event from a > distance, I’m guessing that she would stop doing it a lot quicker. Plus, > if > that unpleasant event happens even when I’m not right next to her, she’ll > probably avoid doing it even when I’m not there. > Another good thing about this that I can think of is that it could > potentially work the same way as clicker training does.  Instead of > clicking > at the exact point that the desired behavior occurs (ie, as soon as her > butt > hits the floor to "sit"), I could shock once she starts doing something > she > shouldn’t be doing (ie, as soon as she bites down on the chair). The > obvious difference, though, between a shock collar and a spritz bottle or > a > clicker is that a shock collar could be much more harmful. > What are everyone’s thoughts on this, and can anyone think of any safer > ways > of doing this? > Dear Stu, > Believe it or not, Jerry gave us one of the very best suggestions. > We filled a small can with pennies, closed it up, and whenever my dog did > something wrong near us, we dropped or gently tossed the can with pennies > near her.    I don’t know if it was the distraction, or what, but this > worked like a charm.   It didn’t cost anything, and it worked well. So why > not try that instead? > Also I must add that some of Jerry’s ideas are working fantastically with my > daughters small dogs. > Jerry if you are reading this, thanks much, but you are still on my killfile > because your personality comes across in too irritating a manner for me. > I am posting this in the interest of total honesty though. > Regards, > Evelyn

If you followed the part that instructs you to follow the BRIEF, VARIABLE distraction WITH prolonged non physical praise, the behavior would extinguish, instead of just being interrupted for the occasion…. If you followed all of the parts that instruct you to not scold, confront, crate, intimidate, jerk, choke, or punish your dog, you’d quickly end up with dogs like these:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I read up on rotties, pitbulls, etc., and quite a bit of the > literature suggested I needed to assert my dominance and "make > the dog earn everything it gets."  I tried this once or twice, just by > taking a stern tone of voice, and the results were terrible.  The pup > got scared and just wanted to stay away from me. > That’s why I support Jerry Howe and his FREE Wits’ End Dog > Training > manual — that and the fact that Jerry is an all-around great guy. > The core takeaway I got from Jerry’s manual is this: make yourself > the center of your puppy’s world — his personal Lord Jesus.  Never > give him a reason to fear you or think you’re angry.  Love the heck > out of him, and you’ll end up with a great dog. > This has truly worked with my puppy.  She’ll do anything I want > her to, if she understands, because she trusts me 100 percent, > and nothing is more important in her world than her relationship > with me. http://www.geocities.com/viscouspuppy > Charlie

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> We just installed a PetSafe brand fence this Spring.  Two dogs, > two collars We now have one dog and no collars. > Peach and Zelda would run thru the fence, not want to come back > in the yard and would run for days.  The last time, Peach didn’t > come back home. > I used the Wit’s End Training Manual to learn how to train my dog. > She is now border trained.  A few minutes each day reinforces > her desire to stay in the yard. She no longer runs out into the > road, I can stop her from chasing cats and she no longer cringes > when we walk around the yard. > I can not say loud or long enough how much I hate the e-fence > and its collars.  If you can’t get a regular fence then you need to > train your dog.  I will never rely on an electronic collar to keep my > dog in our yard again.  The price was too high:-( > ~misty > —– Original Message —–

 Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs.breeds  Sent: Wednesday, October 17, 2001 4:14 PM Hi, Jerry. I’m not sure that I’m a 100% convert, or that I agree with (or even understand) 100% of what you say in this manual … BUT … we had "come" down pat in a few reps and you could have knocked me down when I tried the exercise with "drop" and, after a few reps in different spots Darwin practically *threw* the rubber ball at my feet on command. He’s still not perfect (just a pup, after all, and he’s stubborn enough to want to push and test me a little bit more). For what it’s worth, I can see (as no doubt you have) how your usenet manner is likely to rankle a few folks, but that woman who advocates ear pulling and beating with sticks deserves everything she gets. Even if that was the only method that would work, I’d live with my dog not fetching rather than do any of that. (Darwin fetches enthusiastically and instinctively, tho’). Best, ben Doggy Do Right and Jerry Howe I just recently looked at this newsgroup and I found it incredible. I do have a Doggy Do Right and have had it for about one year. It truly does work – at least on my Dobe, Chelsea. Chelsea was the unhappy recipient of several failed attempts at obedience training, both in a "class" environment and with a personal trainer. She is very high spirited and strong and, unfortunately, spoiled, since we are an older couple who doted on our dog. We were lucky enough to find Jerry Howe and to not only buy a Doggy Do Right, but to also have him personally work with Chelsea. His methods are wonderful and effective. Chelsea is not a dog that you will bully, and I wouldn’t dream of hurting her. After Jerry spent time with her, she no longer jumped on furniture, ate food off the counter, pulled me incessantly on the leash. She is calmer and we are all happier. Well, it is a very long story and I won’t bore you with all the details, but suffice it to say that Jerry Howe saved the day for our dog and for us. Marge Hoffman.  (REWARD PAID BY DW.) P.S. You can send me the reward money, but I won’t sell you my DDR!

Response:

> I’ve posted on here pretty consistently over the past month that

> Hey, do like me, and killfile Jerry. > He has millions of people aleady reading his posts and > watching him extract his soggy  foot out of his mouth! > Out of these MILLIONS, I’ve only seen 2 naive childs > come forward and actually believe in his training manual. Robert Crim writes:

I assume that I and my wife are those two naive childs since I freely admit to having read and, I hope, understood enough of the manual and it’s counterparts by John Fisher and the posts of Marilyn Rammell to believe and use it.  This naive child would like to say thank you to both Jerry and Marilyn for putting up with a constant barrage of really infantile crap at the hands of supposedly adult dog lovers. The other naive child (LSW) has to put up with the nagging idea that if people like them had been posting earlier, maybe we would not have had to hold the head of a really magnificent animal in our arms while he was given the needle and having to hug him and wait until he gasped his last gasp. To my mind, "naive" is believing you can terrorize a dog into good behavior.  Naive is believing that people that hide behind fake names are more honest than people that use their real names.  Naive is thinking that dilettante dog breeders and amateur "trainers" like Joey (lyingdogDUMMY, j.h.) are the equal or better than those that have studied and lived by their craft for decades. "Stupid" is believing that people do not see kindergarten level insults for what they are.   Really stupid is believing that people like Jerry Howe and Marilyn Rammell are going to just go away because you people act like fools.  Why do you act like fools?  I really have no idea, and I don’t really care. > admit to buying and having success with his little black > box.

I think I’m going to get one myself for Father’s day and take it down to the Animal Shelter for their use and testing.  You would never believe the results, so you’ll never know. > Anyone by now that doesn’t see a scam man coming by > Jerry’s posts deserves to get what is sure to be coming to > him! LOL!

I don’t see a "scam man", so I guess I and Longsuffering Wife and Rollei will just have to get what we deserve, eh? As Joey (Dogman) says, "poor Rollei."…….right. >Terri

Yes it was, and that is sad. Robert, Longsuffering Wife and Rollei (do I get to listen to the box first?) Hello People, Robert Crim was a former Gang Of Thugs Member, and hated me a much as the rest of our Thugs do. Robert was a long time friend and prominent contributor to rpdb, till Jerry came along and smartened him up. He learned the hard way, and no longer posts to his former pals, because it is just too painful knowing his pals would rather HURT and KILL their dogs than to admit that JERRY is RIGHT.

Response:

Hello dobielover,

> Let’s look at my case.

You shock your dogs, dobielover… > My puppy on 2 or 3 occasions took a bite out of a couch on the other

side of > the room.  Too bad, it was such a pretty couch. That’s why you lock them outside behind your shock fence. > The bite was so quick that I didn’t have a chance to say anything coherent > let alone have the presence of mind to say ‘NO’ and get a spritz bottle even > if it was right next to me and spray her.

Good idea not to do those things, cause that would make the dog fear you or teach the dog all he’s got to do to stop you in your tracks is to bite a piece of furniture… >  If I can’t get to a bottle fast enough, could I get to a zapper any

faster? This isn’t about being fast, this is about being INTELLIGENT. Our lying dog abusing Thugs HURT dogs because they’re not bright enough to outwit the cunning of the domestic puppy dog. > Talking out of the other side of my mouth,

An rpdb convention… > I wonder if it would frighten a dog and develop a negative association to have > you repeatedly running at her screaming ‘NO!’ and spraying her?

Well HOWE ELSE are you gonna make the dog stop it??? You gonna just shock her from a distance? BWWWAHAHAHAA!!!! > I’m guessing that it wouldn’t take but a > few times before she equated your coming to her (with or without a spritz > bottle) as something less than pleasant.

Yeah. That’s HOWE COME your shock collar is so handy, the dog won’t think it’s YOU hurting IT. > Hey, do like me, and killfile Jerry. > He has millions of people aleady reading his posts and > watching him extract his soggy  foot out of his mouth! > Out of these MILLIONS, I’ve only seen 2 naive childs > come forward and actually believe in his training manual. Robert Crim writes:

I assume that I and my wife are those two naive childs since I freely admit to having read and, I hope, understood enough of the manual and it’s counterparts by John Fisher and the posts of Marilyn Rammell to believe and use it.  This naive child would like to say thank you to both Jerry and Marilyn for putting up with a constant barrage of really infantile crap at the hands of supposedly adult dog lovers. The other naive child (LSW) has to put up with the nagging idea that if people like them had been posting earlier, maybe we would not have had to hold the head of a really magnificent animal in our arms while he was given the needle and having to hug him and wait until he gasped his last gasp. To my mind, "naive" is believing you can terrorize a dog into good behavior.  Naive is believing that people that hide behind fake names are more honest than people that use their real names.  Naive is thinking that dilettante dog breeders and amateur "trainers" like Joey (lyingdogDUMMY, j.h.) are the equal or better than those that have studied and lived by their craft for decades. "Stupid" is believing that people do not see kindergarten level insults for what they are.   Really stupid is believing that people like Jerry Howe and Marilyn Rammell are going to just go away because you people act like fools.  Why do you act like fools?  I really have no idea, and I don’t really care. > admit to buying and having success with his little black > box.

I think I’m going to get one myself for Father’s day and take it down to the Animal Shelter for their use and testing.  You would never believe the results, so you’ll never know. > Anyone by now that doesn’t see a scam man coming by > Jerry’s posts deserves to get what is sure to be coming to > him! LOL!

I don’t see a "scam man", so I guess I and Longsuffering Wife and Rollei will just have to get what we deserve, eh? As Joey (Dogman) says, "poor Rollei."…….right. >Terri

Yes it was, and that is sad. Robert, Longsuffering Wife and Rollei (do I get to listen to the box first?) Hello People, Robert Crim was a former Gang Of Thugs Member, and hated me a much as the rest of our Thugs do. Robert was a long time friend and prominent contributor to rpdb, till Jerry came along and smartened him up. He learned the hard way, and no longer posts to his former pals, because it is just too painful knowing his pals would rather HURT and KILL their dogs than to admit that JERRY is RIGHT.

Response:

Hello allison, Whatever you do as a distraction is NOT going to effectively break the behavior unless you follow the instructions for distraction and praise techniques as taught in your FREE copy of my FREE Wits’ End Dog Training Method manual… You’re telling people to do things that are going to keep them having trouble with their dogs, alison. I strongly recommend you study YOUR FREE copy of my FREE Wits’ End Dog Training Method manual before you continue to misadvise posters here… > Hey, do like me, and killfile Jerry. > He has millions of people aleady reading his posts and > watching him extract his soggy  foot out of his mouth! > Out of these MILLIONS, I’ve only seen 2 naive childs > come forward and actually believe in his training manual. Robert Crim writes:

I assume that I and my wife are those two naive childs since I freely admit to having read and, I hope, understood enough of the manual and it’s counterparts by John Fisher and the posts of Marilyn Rammell to believe and use it.  This naive child would like to say thank you to both Jerry and Marilyn for putting up with a constant barrage of really infantile crap at the hands of supposedly adult dog lovers. The other naive child (LSW) has to put up with the nagging idea that if people like them had been posting earlier, maybe we would not have had to hold the head of a really magnificent animal in our arms while he was given the needle and having to hug him and wait until he gasped his last gasp. To my mind, "naive" is believing you can terrorize a dog into good behavior.  Naive is believing that people that hide behind fake names are more honest than people that use their real names.  Naive is thinking that dilettante dog breeders and amateur "trainers" like Joey (lyingdogDUMMY, j.h.) are the equal or better than those that have studied and lived by their craft for decades. "Stupid" is believing that people do not see kindergarten level insults for what they are.   Really stupid is believing that people like Jerry Howe and Marilyn Rammell are going to just go away because you people act like fools.  Why do you act like fools?  I really have no idea, and I don’t really care. > admit to buying and having success with his little black > box.

I think I’m going to get one myself for Father’s day and take it down to the Animal Shelter for their use and testing.  You would never believe the results, so you’ll never know. > Anyone by now that doesn’t see a scam man coming by > Jerry’s posts deserves to get what is sure to be coming to > him! LOL!

I don’t see a "scam man", so I guess I and Longsuffering Wife and Rollei will just have to get what we deserve, eh? As Joey (Dogman) says, "poor Rollei."…….right. >Terri

Yes it was, and that is sad. Robert, Longsuffering Wife and Rollei (do I get to listen to the box first?) Hello People, Robert Crim was a former Gang Of Thugs Member, and hated me a much as the rest of our Thugs do. Robert was a long time friend and prominent contributor to rpdb, till Jerry came along and smartened him up. He learned the hard way, and no longer posts to his former pals, because it is just too painful knowing his pals would rather HURT and KILL their dogs than to admit that JERRY is RIGHT.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> If I’m sitting on the couch in the family room and I see her chewing on > the > chair in the dining room, however, I can’t immediately say "No" and spritz > her, since I need to walk over to her first.  Just saying "No" distracts > her > for a few seconds, but when I turn away, she starts doing it again. If I > could somehow say "No" and follow that with some unpleasant event from a > distance, I’m guessing that she would stop doing it a lot quicker. Plus, > if > that unpleasant event happens even when I’m not right next to her, she’ll > probably avoid doing it even when I’m not there. >     Hi Stu, >            If you see her chewing and she hasn’t seen you , you could try > throwing(lightly) something like a tennis ball at or near her. It’s not > meant to hurt her but it makes her stop and think. If she hasn’t seen you , > she’ll think there’s some all- seeing eye that watches her when you aren’t > there. >       Alison

Response:

I have remote "shock" collars for both my dogs, but don’t use the "shock" part.  Most good collars have a setting that just BEEPS.  I find them extremely useful for distance training and positive reinforcement.  By just keeping this on them for a while, you can reinforce the behavior you want similar to using a clicker.  It is all a matter of timing.  I find it very useful when the dogs may be out of voice range since the beep gets their attention and they look to me for hand signals.  As far as using it for negative reinforcement, I wouldn’t recommend it since she will begin to associate the collar with being corrected.  Spraying bitter apple on our furniture legs worked wonders for us.  The jar of pennies worked great for one of our dogs.  The other thought it was a toy…  Gotta love ‘em…

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I’ve posted on here pretty consistently over the past month that I’ve had my > dog, so I hope that you guys have gotten to know me well enough and know > that I would never intentionally do anything that would hurt my puppy, > either physically or mentally.  However, someone had suggested that I get a > remote-control shock collar to help get rid of bad behaviors.  While I have > absolutely no intention of using this on my dog, it does have a few > advantages that I can think of. > First of all, I’ve used a spray bottle with some diluted Bitter Apple to get > help train her not to bite or pull on clothes, and that’s worked really > well.  I’d say "No", then spritz her whenever she did that, and she stopped > that really quickly.  So I think a "No" followed by an unpleasant (yet > harmless) event (getting spritzed) seems to work pretty well to stop that. > However, the main reason that this worked was because well, she had to be > right near me in order to chew on my arm or clothes. > If I’m sitting on the couch in the family room and I see her chewing on the > chair in the dining room, however, I can’t immediately say "No" and spritz > her, since I need to walk over to her first.  Just saying "No" distracts her > for a few seconds, but when I turn away, she starts doing it again.  If I > could somehow say "No" and follow that with some unpleasant event from a > distance, I’m guessing that she would stop doing it a lot quicker.  Plus, if > that unpleasant event happens even when I’m not right next to her, she’ll > probably avoid doing it even when I’m not there. > Another good thing about this that I can think of is that it could > potentially work the same way as clicker training does.  Instead of clicking > at the exact point that the desired behavior occurs (ie, as soon as her butt > hits the floor to "sit"), I could shock once she starts doing something she > shouldn’t be doing (ie, as soon as she bites down on the chair).  The > obvious difference, though, between a shock collar and a spritz bottle or a > clicker is that a shock collar could be much more harmful. > What are everyone’s thoughts on this, and can anyone think of any safer ways > of doing this?

Response:

I to have an e-collar that I use only for off-leash hikes. I find that the good and bad sounds are enough to let her know if she’s good (coming on command) or bad (wandering off the trail into the tick infested woods). I don’t know if it would be effective for a chewer, a problem I never had to deal with. Some of the suggestions here sound good–bitter apple on the thing you don’t want chewed (not in the dog’s face), distraction via obedience commands.

> I have remote "shock" collars for both my dogs, but don’t use the "shock" > part.  Most good collars have a setting that just BEEPS.  I find them > extremely useful for distance training and positive reinforcement.  By just > keeping this on them for a while, you can reinforce the behavior you want > similar to using a clicker.  It is all a matter of timing.  I find it very > useful when the dogs may be out of voice range since the beep gets their > attention and they look to me for hand signals.  As far as using it for > negative reinforcement, I wouldn’t recommend it since she will begin to > associate the collar with being corrected.  Spraying bitter apple on our > furniture legs worked wonders for us.  The jar of pennies worked great for > one of our dogs.  The other thought it was a toy…  Gotta love ‘em…

snip

Response:

Hello Brett, If you use the penny can incorrectly the dog may treat it like a toy. The can is supposed by use to make a brief, impersonal, variable sound distraction, not to intimidate or scare or hit the dog. The sound must instantly be followed by prolonged, exuberant, sincere, non physical praise. The behavior we are distracting must not be totally distracted or removed from the dog’s reach. IOW, we don’t want to give an incompatible or replacement behavior. We want the dog to resume his malbehavior, so we can break it. The objective is to allow the behavior to begin again so we can distract and praise again. And repeat it again until the behavior is extinguished simply by the process of elimination, the thought of the idea being conditioned to have no fulfillment. Got it? I can explain it again in another hundred ways if need be. It’s all the same. The idea is to EXTINGUISH EVERY UNDESIRABLE BEHAVIOR in a few minutes using effective behavior modification techniques. There’s a little bit moore to know about distraction and praise. When we’ve got the dog conditioned to the technique he’ll refrain from engaging in "bad" behavior we observe him thinking of doing, by just praising him. So, let’s say you’re walking down the street and your dog spots a pizza crust he’s about to eat, all you’ll have to do is say GOOD BOY NICE DOG and he’ll remember he ain’t supposed to be thinking of that cause everything GOOD comes from you… Get all the information from your FREE copy of my FREE Wits’ End Dog Training Method manual available for FREE at http://www.doggdoright.com Jerry. P.S. My students usually get a 100% reliable come command in one hour of EZ work… j;~)

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I have remote "shock" collars for both my dogs, but don’t use the "shock" > part.  Most good collars have a setting that just BEEPS.  I find them > extremely useful for distance training and positive reinforcement.  By just > keeping this on them for a while, you can reinforce the behavior you want > similar to using a clicker.  It is all a matter of timing.  I find it very > useful when the dogs may be out of voice range since the beep gets their > attention and they look to me for hand signals.  As far as using it for > negative reinforcement, I wouldn’t recommend it since she will begin to > associate the collar with being corrected.  Spraying bitter apple on our > furniture legs worked wonders for us.  The jar of pennies worked great for > one of our dogs.  The other thought it was a toy…  Gotta love ‘em… > I’ve posted on here pretty consistently over the past month that I’ve had > my > dog, so I hope that you guys have gotten to know me well enough and know > that I would never intentionally do anything that would hurt my puppy, > either physically or mentally.  However, someone had suggested that I get > a > remote-control shock collar to help get rid of bad behaviors.  While I > have > absolutely no intention of using this on my dog, it does have a few > advantages that I can think of. > First of all, I’ve used a spray bottle with some diluted Bitter Apple to > get > help train her not to bite or pull on clothes, and that’s worked really > well.  I’d say "No", then spritz her whenever she did that, and she > stopped > that really quickly.  So I think a "No" followed by an unpleasant (yet > harmless) event (getting spritzed) seems to work pretty well to stop that. > However, the main reason that this worked was because well, she had to be > right near me in order to chew on my arm or clothes. > If I’m sitting on the couch in the family room and I see her chewing on > the > chair in the dining room, however, I can’t immediately say "No" and spritz > her, since I need to walk over to her first.  Just saying "No" distracts > her > for a few seconds, but when I turn away, she starts doing it again. If I > could somehow say "No" and follow that with some unpleasant event from a > distance, I’m guessing that she would stop doing it a lot quicker. Plus, > if > that unpleasant event happens even when I’m not right next to her, she’ll > probably avoid doing it even when I’m not there. > Another good thing about this that I can think of is that it could > potentially work the same way as clicker training does.  Instead of > clicking > at the exact point that the desired behavior occurs (ie, as soon as her > butt > hits the floor to "sit"), I could shock once she starts doing something > she > shouldn’t be doing (ie, as soon as she bites down on the chair). The > obvious difference, though, between a shock collar and a spritz bottle or > a > clicker is that a shock collar could be much more harmful. > What are everyone’s thoughts on this, and can anyone think of any safer > ways > of doing this?

Response:

Instead of using a can of pennies (excellent tool, by the way) I’ve opted to use a small magazine.  It just happened one night, when one of my furkids was rough-housing with her brother.  I’d asked them to quit, and they were so intent they weren’t tuning the request in.  I picked up a small, light weight magazine, and just tossed it in their direction.  I didn’ t make contact with anyone, yet the noise and "flutter-flap" stopped all activities.  They looked at me like I’d dropped a bomb.  I assured them they were "alright," but once I had their attention they listened.  I’ve used this only a few times, with success each time, and their "tuning me in" has really improved. Dogsmom

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I’ve posted on here pretty consistently over the past month that I’ve had my > dog, so I hope that you guys have gotten to know me well enough and know > that I would never intentionally do anything that would hurt my puppy, > either physically or mentally.  However, someone had suggested that I get a > remote-control shock collar to help get rid of bad behaviors.  While I have > absolutely no intention of using this on my dog, it does have a few > advantages that I can think of. > First of all, I’ve used a spray bottle with some diluted Bitter Apple to get > help train her not to bite or pull on clothes, and that’s worked really > well.  I’d say "No", then spritz her whenever she did that, and she stopped > that really quickly.  So I think a "No" followed by an unpleasant (yet > harmless) event (getting spritzed) seems to work pretty well to stop that. > However, the main reason that this worked was because well, she had to be > right near me in order to chew on my arm or clothes. > If I’m sitting on the couch in the family room and I see her chewing on the > chair in the dining room, however, I can’t immediately say "No" and spritz > her, since I need to walk over to her first.  Just saying "No" distracts her > for a few seconds, but when I turn away, she starts doing it again.  If I > could somehow say "No" and follow that with some unpleasant event from a > distance, I’m guessing that she would stop doing it a lot quicker.  Plus, if > that unpleasant event happens even when I’m not right next to her, she’ll > probably avoid doing it even when I’m not there. > Another good thing about this that I can think of is that it could > potentially work the same way as clicker training does.  Instead of clicking > at the exact point that the desired behavior occurs (ie, as soon as her butt > hits the floor to "sit"), I could shock once she starts doing something she > shouldn’t be doing (ie, as soon as she bites down on the chair).  The > obvious difference, though, between a shock collar and a spritz bottle or a > clicker is that a shock collar could be much more harmful. > What are everyone’s thoughts on this, and can anyone think of any safer ways > of doing this?

Response:

I don’t use a shock collar, so I can’t comment on that, but I have found a much easier way to keep the dog from chewing things he shouldn’t when I am home. I treat him the same way I would treat a baby who is reaching for something that he shouldn’t touch. I tell him "no", using his name to get his attention, and move him away and give him something that he can have. Also, just as you would treat a baby, there is nothing wrong with gating off rooms with your best furniture or fragile objects until they learn how to behave appropriately.

Response:

snipJust saying "No" distracts her > for a few seconds, but when I turn away, she starts doing it again.  If I > could somehow say "No" and follow that with some unpleasant event from a > distance, I’m guessing that she would stop doing it a lot quicker.  Plus, if > that unpleasant event happens even when I’m not right next to her, she’ll > probably avoid doing it even when I’m not there.

I don’t think a shock collar would work for the above application, the timing is wrong.  You state that your pup will stop what she is doing when you say no.  If you say no, she stops, then you provide an "unpleasant event", you will just confuse her.  And depending on her nature, maybe even teach her to fear you whenever you give her a command.  For her chewing problem, as soon as she stops, praise her and give her an acceptable substitute.  Keep a variety of acceptable substitutes on hand. > Another good thing about this that I can think of is that it could > potentially work the same way as clicker training does. snip

Well, your concept here is sort of unclear to me.  If you mean work as in, end up with a trained dog, yeah maybe.  If you mean work as in, clicker training functions just like a shock collar, no. Look, a shock collar is really considered heavy artillery in your training bag of tricks. If things are going well for you and pup, and it sounds like they are, you should stick to what you have been doing. And, as other posters have mentioned, you can apply the bitter apple to whatever furniture items she likes to chew.  jdoee and Stacey Dog

Response:

Hello jdoee,

> Plus, if that unpleasant event happens even when I’m not right next to her, > she’ll probably avoid doing it even when I’m not there. > I don’t think a shock collar would work for the above application, the > timing is wrong.

No, SHOCKING dogs is WRONG. > You state that your pup will stop what she is doing when > you say no.  If you say no, she stops, then you provide an "unpleasant > event", you will just confuse her.

That’s not the fault of the shock collar. The shock collar only BURNS the dog when YOU want to HURT IT because you wasn’t bright enough to teach the dog what you wanted to. > And depending on her nature,

Dogs do not vary in HOWE much they fear and hate getting shocked. > maybe even teach her to fear you whenever you give her a command.

That won’t happen if you learn HOWE to INFLICT PAIN properly, accordign to koehler, lying "I LOVE KOEHLER" lynn, lying frosty dahl, ron hardin, and ed w o pet loss dot CON. > For her chewing problem, as soon as she stops, praise her and give her an > acceptable substitute.

That’s stupid. There’s nothing there to teach the dog not to chew again. Seems you bums are AFRAID to learn HOWE dogs think and learn, cause it seems Jerry’s the only body here who’s got the skinny on teaching and breaking behaviors… > Keep a variety of acceptable substitutes on hand.

No, that’ll keep you replacing behaviors instead of EXTINGUISHIN undesirable behaviors. > Another good thing about this that I can think of is that it could > potentially work the same way as clicker training does. snip

Yeah, up till the PAIN. > Well, your concept here is sort of unclear to me.

Your concept is clearly wrong, to me. And since I’m the expert in this field, I suggest you go shit in your hat, jdoee. > If you mean work as in, end up with a trained dog, yeah maybe.  If you mean > work as in, clicker training functions just like a shock collar, no.

You can train the dog to anything you know HOWE, jdoee. Sure, he could. > Look, a shock collar is really considered heavy artillery in your training > bag of tricks.

No. A shock collar is ABUSIVE and only used by incompetent dog abusers who couldn’t outwit the cunning of the domestic puppy dog if their lives depended on it. That’s why they tell you to killfile Jerry, cause Jerry’s blown their cover, BIG TIME. > If things are going well for you and pup, and it sounds like they are,

That’s curious, since he’s writing in about his behavior PROBLEMS, jdoee… > you should stick to what you have been doing.

He’s been PUNISHING and CONFRONTING his dog, jdoee… > And, as other posters have mentioned,

You mean your lying, dog abusing Thug pals??? > you can apply the bitter apple to whatever furniture > items she likes to chew.

INDEED. Instead of training the dog not to chew ANYTHING, in a few minutes of appropriate handling and training as taught in your FREE copy of my FREE Wits’ End Dog Training Method manual avialble for FREE at http://www.doggydoright.com > jdoee and Stacey Dog

The true beauty of Usenet is that it’s World Wide and archived forever, and written words being what they are, should be taken in context. But no matter HOWE you cut it, you can’t change the meaning of SCREAM and MOAN or justify this: "On the other extreme, the really hard dogs we have trained require much more frequent and heavy application of pressure (PAIN j.h.) to get the job done," lying frosty dahl.  "Nope. That "beating dogs with sticks" things is  something you twisted out of context, because you  are full of bizarro manure." "I Would Never Advise Anyone To Slap A Dog I Do Not Believe There Is A Single Circumstance Ever, Where Slapping A Dog Is Anything But Destructive,"  amy  "Get A 30"- 40" Stick. CHUCK IT Under ITS Chin With That Ever Ready Right Hand," As it catches on, try using the stick and no ear pinch. When the dog is digging out to beat the stick and seems totally reliable without any ear pinch, you are finished" "This is continued resistance to your increasing authority, and the job is not done until it is overcome" If the dog drops it, chuck it solidly under the chin, say "No! Hold!" "(stay on the ear until it does)" "(perhaps because the ear is getting tender, or the dog has decided it isn’t worth it)" "You can have a helper wield the stick, or do it yourself. Tougher,  less tractable dogs may require you to progress to striking them more sharply" Try pinching the ear between the metal casing and the collar,  even the buckle on the collar. Persist! Eventually, the dog will give in" "but will squeal, thrash around, and direct their efforts to escaping the ear pinch"  You can press the dog’s ear with a shotshell instead of your thumb" "even get a studded collar and pinch the ear against that" "Make the dog’s need to stop the pinching so urgent that resisting your will fades in importance" dahl. "Chin cuff absolutely does not mean slap," professora gingold. "Warning: Sometimes The Corrections Will Seem Quite Harsh And Cause You To Cringe. This Is A Normal Reaction The First Few Times It Happens, But You’ll Get Over It." mike duforth, author: "Courteous Canine." > Jerome Bigge writes: > I do know that hitting, hurting your dog will often make the > dog either aggressive or a fear biter, neither of which we > want to do. > And neither does anyone else, Jerome.  No matter what Jerry Howe > states. > –Matt.  Rocky’s a Dog.

> Hey, do like me, and killfile Jerry. > He has millions of people aleady reading his posts and > watching him extract his soggy  foot out of his mouth! > Out of these MILLIONS, I’ve only seen 2 naive childs > come forward and actually believe in his training manual. Robert Crim writes:

I assume that I and my wife are those two naive childs since I freely admit to having read and, I hope, understood enough of the manual and it’s counterparts by John Fisher and the posts of Marilyn Rammell to believe and use it.  This naive child would like to say thank you to both Jerry and Marilyn for putting up with a constant barrage of really infantile crap at the hands of supposedly adult dog lovers. The other naive child (LSW) has to put up with the nagging idea that if people like them had been posting earlier, maybe we would not have had to hold the head of a really magnificent animal in our arms while he was given the needle and having to hug him and wait until he gasped his last gasp. To my mind, "naive" is believing you can terrorize a dog into good behavior.  Naive is believing that people that hide behind fake names are more honest than people that use their real names.  Naive is thinking that dilettante dog breeders and amateur "trainers" like Joey (lyingdogDUMMY, j.h.) are the equal or better than those that have studied and lived by their craft for decades. "Stupid" is believing that people do not see kindergarten level insults for what they are.   Really stupid is believing that people like Jerry Howe and Marilyn Rammell are going to just go away because you people act like fools.  Why do you act like fools?  I really have no idea, and I don’t really care. > admit to buying and having success with his little black > box.

I think I’m going to get one myself for Father’s day and take it down to the Animal Shelter for their use and testing.  You would never believe the results, so you’ll never know. > Anyone by now that doesn’t see a scam man coming by > Jerry’s posts deserves to get what is sure to be coming to > him! LOL!

I don’t see a "scam man", so I guess I and Longsuffering Wife and Rollei will just have to get what we deserve, eh? As Joey (Dogman) says, "poor Rollei."…….right. >Terri

Yes it was, and that is sad. Robert, Longsuffering Wife and Rollei (do I get to listen to the box first?)

Response:

Sorry to disagree with you. But shocking a dog which really means applying a very short duration stimulus is not WRONG. Graeson, a two year old GSD, wouldn’t have made it to two had he not been rescued by a local GSD rescue. Graeson’s problem was that he just loved to wander. So after being picked up three times, the owners told the shelter to keep him. And we all know what that means. So Grae got adopted out and guess what. He still loves to wander. Nothing worked to stop the wandering. So the owner got a remote collar. Whenever Grae headed for the proverbial hills, he got a mild stimulation. Now Grae doesn’t wander. Period. Another shepherd I know of is dog aggressive. He was adopted into a home where he has a problem with another dog. To date, Sarek has run up emergency room vet bills totalling over $650. Now when he postures or growls at his room mate, he receives a minor stimulus. The number of incidents has been reduced and it looks as if the dog won’t find his way back to a shelter. To say that shocking a dog is WRONG is about as right as saying that using a remote collar day in and day out is the way to go. Neither are correct. The remote collar in the wrong hands will turn a good dog into a whimp, afraid of his own shadow. On the other hand, our local shepherd rescue has 9 dogs who are not trainable by conventional means. It’s a simple choice: work with a remote collar or euthanize the dogs. Hmmmm. I wonder which makes more sense. rick

Response:

Heelo RABSparks,

> Sorry to disagree with you. But shocking a dog which really means applying a > very short duration stimulus is not WRONG.

Stimulus? Like a medical grade static like stimulation. The manufacturer’s manuals advise it’s likely the dog will shit and piss himself, scream and try to escape and may bite someone nearby until they have become accustomed to being stimulated. They advise us to ignore it and it’ll go away. > Graeson, a two year old GSD, wouldn’t have made it to two had he not been > rescued by a local GSD rescue.

Rescued. Is that supposed to mean jerked and choked and shocked and locked in a box because you’re bad? > Graeson’s problem was that he just loved to wander.

That’s usually a problem of bad management and poor training, not the dog. If the dog is adequately bonded to the family he’s not likely to want to roam, cause he’s got his place with his pack. A few minutes of teaching the dog his boundaries and he ain’t likely to go nowhere. > So after being picked up three times, the owners told the shelter to > keep him. And we all know what that means.

Means the bums who owned him didn’t give a crap. Some dog lovers took him in. Nice deal. Getting jerked and choked and shocked shouldn’t have to be part of that. As long as we’ve got Thugs teaching people to jerk and choke and shock and alphalpha roll their dogs we’re going to have out of control dogs ending up in pounds and shelters and getting DEAD cause our pound and shelter helpers don’t have the training skills necessary to successfully train families and rehabilitate behavior problems in dogs to keep them the heel outta the pounds and shelters in the first place. > So Grae got adopted out and guess what. He still loves to wander.

That’s what my Family Leadership Exercise is all about. Bonding. Even without a tremendous bond a competent trainer can train a dog to stay within a perimiter. Dogs are creatures of habit and are easily conditioned. See my post "elephants." It’s about conditioning a behavior. The only difference between the example of the conditioned elephant is the elephant was necessarily conditioned from birth, because they used a force method to condition the animal, unlike myself, who will never use a force method to establish control because at some point it’s likely to be challenged, and I work predominantely with giant breed dogs who are to goddamned big for me to HANG in the even my "training" pisses them off. > Nothing worked to stop the wandering.

What nothing worked. You mean whatever the incompetent trainer tried before resorting to HURTING the dog with a shock device cause he gave up bribing and hurting him by hand to train him? > So the owner got a remote collar.

Because he didn’t have any effective non violent method to train the dog so he needed to shock the dog because he didn’t have the intellect to outwit the cunning of the domestic puppy dog. > Whenever Grae headed for the proverbial hills, he got a mild

stimulation. You mean he got BURNED. Did you hear about the case where the dog actually got third degree burns from a malfunctioning shock collar? It’s in court. The dog’s suing. > Now Grae doesn’t wander. Period.

Because he gets shocked. I teach my students to perimiter train their dogs using effective non force methods. Same idea as shocking a dog, except we don’t use PAIN or punishment, just conditioning and deconditioning techniques. > Another shepherd I know of is dog aggressive.

That too is often a fault of mishandling the lead and triggering the dog when the handler becomes concerned about aggression. That’s why I teach my students to handle their leads properly so they’re not pulling or maintaining contact on the dog’s collar and understand HOWE to properly use distraction and praise techniques to interrupt and break undesirable behaviors. And the beautiful part is, we can control the other dog too, cause we don’t need to HURT or FORCE them. > He was adopted into a home where he has a problem with another dog.

BRILLIANT. > To date, Sarek has run up emergency room vet bills totalling over

$650. MONEY DOESN’T BOTHER ME, the dogs gettin hurt’s what bothers me. > Now when he postures or growls at his room mate, he > receives a minor stimulus.

Which means to the dog, that when the Thug with the shock collar isn’t there, there’s no way to hurt him to prevent him from getting even for getting shocked all those times. Dogs don’t forget. They do understand where that shock comes from and they do know you can’t force control when you’re not there. That’s why I teach non force methods, because they condition the dog to do the behavior regardless of the absence or presence of the handler. Dogs are creatures of habit, and it takes minutes to habituate new behaviors, especially if they’re found by the dog to be more resourscefull than previous behaviors. > The number of incidents has been reduced

Reduced. That infers the probelm isn’t totally extinguished. That’s because in forcing the dog there’s no learning to accept the other dog, only to fear being burned in it’s presence. See my post "poison toad." That’s the difference between breaking a dog’s desire to chase a critter without making a big issue of things, like shocking them to teach "leave it". > and it looks as if the dog won’t find his way back to a shelter.

Let’s hope there’s enough of him left… if he does need to go back. I understand dog fighting is a difficult problem, but I’m very certain proper handling and training techniques will condtion even the most difficult dogs, if you know HOWE. > To say that shocking a dog is WRONG is about as right as saying that using > a remote collar day in and day out is the way to go. Neither are

correct. Sorry. You can’t justify hurting a dog to train them to this trainer because this trainer and several others he knows don’t NEED to HURT dogs to train them. And I’ve specialized in temperament and protection work nearly forty years. > The remote collar in the wrong hands

The wrong hands are those of the incompetent trainer who would pick up the electric shock collar to HURT a dog he wasn’t able to train. Therefore he should get the heel outta this business. > will turn a good dog into a whimp, afraid of his own shadow.

As with the medical bills, those aren’t my concerns. Lots of times dogs are made aggressive from shocking them. And that gets them DEAD. See the thread "1 step forward" where cubbe snapped at a child she’d been playing with till they walked into her shock zone… > On the other hand, our local shepherd rescue has 9 dogs who are not > trainable by conventional means.

Then I suggest they’re using inappropriate methods because the methods I teach are effective across the board. That’s HOWE come I specialize in temperament and behavior problems, cause I know HOWE. > It’s a simple choice:

No, it’s not choice. It’s cause they’ve run outta intellect. Simple. They got outwitted by a puppy dog. I can say that cause I don’t got to hurt dogs to train them. It’s either that or they hurt dogs to train them because the dog LIKES it. Somebody must LIKE it if they’re doing it cause I know it’s not necessary. And telling us it’s not painful isn’t going to cut it either till one of you shock collar trainers takes my thousand dollar prize money for dual shock collar training any dog to do anything. The true experts tell me my money is SAFE. > work with a remote collar or euthanize the dogs.

You mean you hurt the dogs to save them from the needle. That’s the same excuse koehler uses to HANG dogs. > Hmmmm. I wonder which makes more sense.

Neither. You’re using a bunch of incompetents to justify doing something unethical and dangerous and it ain’t gonna cut it no moore cause I’ve got effective methods that don’t hurt dogs, as do a few other decent trainers. Incompetent trainers who justify hurting dogs to train them based on their knowledge and EXPERTISE are lying dog abusing Thugs… they defend HURTING dogs to train them because that’s all they know HOWE to do. Either that, or they’re hurting dogs because they LIKE to. > rick

> I’ve posted on here pretty consistently over the past month that

<SNIP> > However, someone had suggested that I get a remote-control shock collar > to help get rid of bad behaviors.

Musta been someone he knows off the forum, our experts know better  than to recommend shocking dogs to train the unless you’re an expert and know HOWE to HURT the dog properly. And they know dogs don’t have BAD behaviors, they have normal, natural, ordinary, reflexive, instinctive dog behaviors. > While I have absolutely no intention of using this on my dog,

Oh. It it’s good for one it should be good for all unless they’re like allergic or something. I’m allergic to PAIN and FEAR. I don’t think anybody should be subjected to pain and fear. Do you? NO, that’s why you’re HURTING and INTIMIDATING the dog in the first place, isn’t it? Ever heard of allelomimetic behavior? Means everything we say and do to our dogs, they’re going to copy as our professor lying doc "scruff shake" dermer likes to call it in the scientific terminology. >it does have a few advantages that I can think of.

Means if you get lucky and it works you don’t have  to kill the dog because you don’t know HOWE to train IT. After all, shocking a dog IS moore humane than choking them I think. Don’t you agree? Of course, choking dogs should be outlawed and severe penalties instituted for professional trainers who NEED to use pronged spiked pinch and choke collars. HOWE’S that hit ya? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> First of all, I’ve used a spray bottle with some diluted Bitter Apple to > get help train her not to bite or

… read more »

Response:

Hello Brenda, Most of our people use the same methods, and they don’t work quickly or effectively, that’s why they crate, shock, choke, and kill their dogs. My student’s learn HOWE to control all dog behaviors in a few minutes using effective non force, scientific and psychological conditioning and desensitization techniques as taught in your FREE copy of my FREE Wits’ End Dog Training Method manual available for FREE at http://www.doggydoright.com. Just ask if you need help with it. Jerry.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I don’t use a shock collar, so I can’t comment on that, but I have > found a much easier way to keep the dog from chewing things he > shouldn’t when I am home. I treat him the same way I would treat a > baby who is reaching for something that he shouldn’t touch. I tell him > "no", using his name to get his attention, and move him away and give > him something that he can have. Also, just as you would treat a baby, > there is nothing wrong with gating off rooms with your best furniture > or fragile objects until they learn how to behave appropriately.

Response:

I found your response specious, your attitude "over the top", and we won’t get into the English.

Response:

Category Categories: Dog Behavior Aggressive | Comments No Comments »

Can you people just stick to dog behavior and keep ALL your personal + You can see my lovably viscous WITS END puppy (THANK YOU, JERRY !!!) opinions to yourself?

Question:

Hello Linda,

> First and foremost, this will be my last reply to Mr. Jerry Howe.

Reply? I’ve never addressed you. I’ve answered a couple of Thugs responding to your OP, but no, I’ve never responded to you, therefore there’s no way you are replying to me. You may be making a comment about some of my posts, but no, no reply to me. > Your response to my message is evidence that you have no idea who or > what you are replying to.

I checked all my replies to this thread, and it seem you are confused. >  My name is not Lynn and I am not a Koehler trainer

Right. lynn is lying "Oh YEAH! I LOVE KOEHLER" lynn k, a devout koehler and shock and pronged pinch spiked choke collar fan. > nor have I ever been.

EXACTLY. That’s why our "experts" jumped all over you. They thought you were sympathetic towards non violent trainers, they don’t like people here talking about NOT hurting dogs to train them. Just look at the response to the thread "they’re killing puppys". Nothing but bitching about spelling and gramma and posting style and complaints about cross posting.. > You seem to be quick to jump the gun and make accusations that are

unjust. You seemed to have misread the headers, and have been quick to jump the gun and accuse me of maligning you, because of my post to our well known, respected, loved, liar, lying "I LOVE KOHELR" lynn kosmakos, our preeminant koehler fancier, since dogman left and dahl is afraid to talk about it as is cindymooreon, despite she quotes his methods on her "faqs" page at k9web. Look up hole digging and alphalpha rolls, her ‘heaviest weapon in her dog training arsenal.’ > Now that I have experienced this first hand,

No, you’ve made an unfortunate although quite understandable error. You believed our liars who responded intentionally with more lies to cause you to believe that I’d attacked you unjustly. That’s O.K., our experts will do or say ANYTHING to defend themselves, that is, anything but the TRUTH. That’s what scares a liar the most. > I have totally lost any respect for you that I may have had.

No problem. I trust your confidence in me will quickly be restored and you’ll come to love and trust me in all your affairs, dogs, people, whatever field of study you’re interested in. I’m certain I’ve got some guidance for you, I do so much moore in my life than simply train dogs. Dog training has become a vehicle to other aspects of the human mind and it’s relationship to self, family, and our society as a species. > (I have never condoned the use of electronic training devices etc. )

I gathered that from your OP. That’ll make you very unpupular here. > I  am a touch free trainer and understand what it is you are trying to

do. Perhaps yes, perhaps no. It’d be remiss to ever second guess my motives… I’ll accept your apology, but trust me, it’s not necessary for my personal satisfaction. I know you’ll quickly set yourself straight, and the apology will be reflected in your kindly posts to me, as there is something stronger within us than our personal defense, that’s why we do not HURT animals to train them, isn’t it, Linda. > However, the way you go about it appears to really turn people off.

Imagine that? Could it be the subject matter we’re discussing? After all, choking and beating dogs and twisting their ears and shocking them isn’t exactly the most paltable thought when we think of handling and training our dogs, is it, Linda? No wonder people run like HEEL when they open some of my posts. I QUOTE our respected rpdb Gang Of Thugs members, and they deny it, and because the evidence I submit is so cruel, NOBODY BELIEVES ITS TRUE. Our experts who TEACH the quoted text DENY THEIR OWN WORDS published on their websites and archived forever. That’s the nature of a pathological liar, isn’t it??? > If you truly want to get your message across, why can’t you just post > clear-cut information?

Because this is a very complex group to understand. We’ve got a very long established CONSPIRACY to subvert non violent training methods on every level.  Because one competent trainer can be bashed, but five or ten cannot be all bashed together. That’s why they work in sync to disparrage every competent trainer till they no longer post here any longer. Look up the posts of Master_222, Canis55, Marilyn, Colette, Robert Crim, Parker, Aspiring Trainer, any non violent trainer ever posting here has met confrontation, ridicule and harrassment till they simply leave to find somewhere their information will be respected. I saw what had been going on here, and that’s HOWE COME I began posting here and proving our "experts" to be liars and dog abusers. Welcome to rpdb. > If you are a positive trainer, why do you use such negative communications > with people in this group?

Because my daddy told me "you’re judged by the company you keep," therefore there is no way I’ll rub elbows with liars and dog abusers, it goes against my grain. > Bad advice that could lead to the death of a dog is not just cause for > slamming people the way you do.

The "people" I slam are conspirators to repress non violent training methods and defend their alleged right to hurt and kill dogs. > You defeat your purpose.

No, it’s unfortunate but there are indeed collateral damages. I’m willing to accept the high price of war. It’s unfortunate but necessary in this instance. >  Do you really think you will get through to them this way?

Nope. Don’t intend to. Never did. I’ve been in this business for forty years, I know the Nature of this Beast. Like a rabid dog, there is no rehabilitation. In that instance, I’ll be the first to kill the dog. I came here to identify, expose, and discredit our lying, dog abusing Thugs. The price of that may be a few sympathizers with my cause, but they’d be too lightweight to use in this war anyway, so they’re simply considered collateral damages and that’s an unfortunate necessity… like twisting and pinching ears and toes and testicles and choking and shocking and beating and hanging dogs are unfortunate realites of the EXPERT DOG TRAINERS who knows HOWE to hurt dogs properly. That’s what our experts need you to believe, that they’re experts and they KNOW that proper infliction of pain and duress is NECESSARY. > Sadly there are people in this world that believe they have to be physical with > their dogs

Our group are predominantely koehler and shock and pronged spiked pinch choke collar fanciers. Not only do they believe hurting dogs is necessary, they ENJOY their work, and proudly teach it to others, and will do and say anything to make their methods acceptable to all. They LIE. This is a conspiracy, not a discussion forum. I discovered that, and took a different hammer to ring our bell. Welcome to Wits’ End Dog Training. Have you read your FREE copy of my FREE Wits’ End Dog Training Method manual? If you’ve got any questions of if the method doesn’t appear to work precisely as I suggest it does, please just ask me for extra help and I’m at your service. > and there are those that are open minded to learn more positive > touch free type training.

Yes, I’ve got lots of satisfied students I’ve met here. Unfortunately, they do not stick around, they know what’s going down here on rpdb, and they don’t need it, and I don’t blame them. I tell them to take my manual and run like heel. There’s a couple who’ve stuck around for a while, but the harrassment from our force trainers makes their effort worthless as all their posts are counterd with lies,  as they’ve done to all the other competent trainers of the past. That’s why I’m here. > I just got rid of a well paying daycare customer yesterday because she > refused to stop using a pinch collar on her dog.

Good for you. I wouldn’t allow a pronged spiked pinch choke collar on my property for longer than the time it takes to remove it. > If I had argued with her, it would have only turned her off the idea. Instead, I > provided information that will hopefully make her ’see the light’.

Sounds like you didn’t succeed. Some folks just need to inflict pain because it makes them feel powerful, others because they’re convinced hurting dogs is necessary, and still others continue to inflict pain to PROTECT THEIR INVESTMENT in PAIN. Got it? Kinda like going into the hole to pay your bookie. > Turning people off of you as a person will turn them off of your advice thus > rendering your ‘mission’ ineffective.

That’s sometimes the case in warfare. > If you are such a positive trainer, it certainly doesn’t show in your > personality within this group.

I came here to KILL our "experts" not cure. I know better than to corner a rabid animal unless you can kill it. I know better than to not leave them an escape, because that will provoke them to fight. They’re up against the wall. I’m the wall. And I’m holding the match to light their last cigarette. > My apologies to the group for feeding the troll this one last time.

That’s why I leave them no choice but to fight me and die. I trust you’ll serve my purposes well, one way or the other. > Hello lying "I LOVE KOEHLER" lynn,

Now I’ll go to your original post, and reply to you. Your friend, Jerry.

Response:

First and foremost, this will be my last reply to Mr. Jerry Howe. Your response to my message is evidence that you have no idea who or what you are replying to. My name is not Lynn and I am not a Koehler trainer nor have I ever been.You seem to be quick to jump the gun and make accusations that are unjust. Now that I have experienced this first hand, I have totally lost any respect for you that I may have had. (I have never condoned the use of electronic training devices etc. ) I  am a touch free trainer and understand what it is you are trying to do. However, the way you go about it appears to really turn people off. If you truly want to get your message across, why can’t you just post clear-cut information? If you are a positive trainer, why do you use such negative communications with people in this group? Bad advice that could lead to the death of a dog is not just cause for slamming people the way you do. You defeat your purpose.  Do you really think you will get through to them this way? Sadly there are people in this world that believe they have to be physical with their dogs and there are those that are open minded to learn more positive touch free type training. I just got rid of a well paying daycare customer yesterday because she refused to stop using a pinch collar on her dog. If I had argued with her, it would have only turned her off the idea. Instead, I provided information that will hopefully make her ’see the light’. Turning people off of you as a person will turn them off of your advice thus rendering your ‘mission’ ineffective. If you are such a positive trainer, it certainly doesn’t show in your personality within this group. My apologies to the group for feeding the troll this one last time.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hello lying "I LOVE KOEHLER" lynn,

Response:

 Hello lying "I LOVE KOEHLER" lynn,

> (response trimmed to r.p.d.behavior only, for common courtesy)

> It really is a shame that one must waste so much time and energy weeding > through all the crap that is getting posted here. > Linda, please realize that it is your choice to waste your own time and > energy.  You can tailor your newsreader to read only who and what you want > to see or not see. > If you disagree with a posting, keep it to yourself. If you really disagree, > would it not be more ‘professional’ to just post your advice without > slamming someone else’s ? > I do hope you recognize as an exception to your rules those situations > where seriously bad advice could cause the death of a dog.

Like Fritz, Sampson, Summer, "interested in hearing," "my golden retriever bit the ups guy" "my dog bit a kid," "dogs chasing horses," and your jerking and choking and shocking and spraying aversives to make dogs FRIENDLY to their HOWESkats. Which you denied you recommended. And I quoted your original headers, and you said they weren’t your words, so you’re not responsible for telling the OP to HURT his dog. You’re a patholgical liar. You mentioned Marilyn. Marilyn trains a hundred dogs a month. She’s caught you lying here and on private lists about me, snakeproofing, my methods. > For example, treating a bowel obstruction with sound distraction

There was no mention of sound distraction in that case. The lady said the dog was upset by visiting deer. I told her to walk the dog around the property and show her everything was O.K. > or encouraging boundary training for a Sibe on 25 unfenced wooded acres > bordered by an interstate.

You can’t train a dog to a border. I can. Ask Misty. She did it with her dog instead of relying on your shock fence that killed one of her dogs because you bums told her to killfile my INFORMATION. She learned the hard way. Ask her. She’s even got one of my DDR machines she’s successfully using to quiet her screaming Cockatoo. You’re gonna get F’d BIG TIME… > Truly dangerous advice needs cautionary rebuttal for the good of the

dog. That’s why I came here, to put you and your vicious Thug pals OUTTA BUSINESS. >  How many of you are members of the APPDT ? The code of ethics clearing > states that you are not to ‘bad mouth’ anyone. > That’s an inappropriate question.

Of course, because your pal boob maida only talks about kilfilling Jerry the convicted fugitive child molestor, because I told him I wouldn’t criticize him if he posted exemplary information and refrained from endorsing my methods, as that would be the KISS OF DEATH to have any of you Thugs recommend me, my manual, or my machine. I didn’t come here to play freaking games with you bums lying "OH YEAH! I LOVE KOEHLER" lynn, I came here to drop the hammer on you. > Yes, there are members of NADOI, NAPD,

Now there’s a couple of useless groups. nadoi requires that a trainer work under the guidance of an nadoi THUG for two years. napd has fraudreck and Maddy as their all time winning team. fraudreck with his XXX links that he sent into our dog forum and his "hey, jerr’s nephew, your uncle jerry takes it in the ass" remark when I mentioned I wasn’t impressed with him sending our forum that sort of material. And don’t forget my HIGH STAKES challenge where I offered to meet fraudreck and his dog Maddy in front of that fence with the three aggressive dogs behind it, and whack him out every minute while his national champion K0 sits there frightened to death of his shock collar because every time she thinks of hitting me, she’ll think she’s gonna get burned again for turning towards them dogs. I bet my life I’d walk off with Maddy… FIVE MINUTES I offerd to give Maddy an opportunity to maul me without no interference from fraudreck, just his trained k0 and me, unarmed, unprotected, no training aids whatsoever. Winner take all. I get the dog after five minutes of her mauling me if she’s willing to come along after I remove her shock collar. It’ll be her choice to follow me home never to be hurt again. And of course, we’ve got my $1000.00 dollar reward for any of you demonstrating a dual shock collar rehailitation of a shy dog… let’s see you bums take my money. > NPBA, and other groups that actually require professional qualifications, > as well as APDT.

Big deal. Bums like you and maida and capn haggarty can join, there ain’t nuthin there to learn. > But it is very important to note that the opinions of > someone who has just gotten their 1st puppy are just as valid and welcome > in this newsgroup as those of any of the professional trainers.

>Is obtained through the FREE Wits’ End Dog Training Method… ask >anybody here. Jerry.

You bet it is, Jerry! You can see all the proof you want, folks, by visiting my newly updated Web Site at: http://www.geocities.com/viscouspuppy A few short months ago I was a clueless pup myself, and now I’m just so durned proud of my Wonderful Wits End Dog! Charlie P.S.  Don’t forget to sign my guest book! > Yes, those of us who are professional trainers should behave as > professionals, but if you’ll read the newsgroup charter, you won’t find the word > "professional" mentioned at all.

You’re all over the place, aren’t you? First you bums never heard of nuthin I teach, then suddenly it’s old hat that nobody uses, then it’s all plagerized, then it’s all available in the best books in the library that I’ve snipped little bits from and assembled or maybe I just bought the whole package as part of an internet scam? >  There’s good reason for that.

Yeah. You’re liars. > This is everyone’s newsgroup, to discuss dog behavior, not a professional > trainers’ advice forum.

I don’t see it that way at all. Welcome to Wits’ End Dog Training School Of Hard Knocks. I’m Jerry Howe. HOWE may I serve you today? > Lynn K.

I think I’ll serve a pup quiz. But first, "Pudge Was So Soft That She Could And Would Avoid A Simple Swat On The Rump With A Riding Crop, Even When On A Check Cord. This Form Of Softness, Moving Quickly To Avoid Physical Correction, Made Her Difficult In Some Ways," lyingfrosty dahl. Here’s a name that Thug pup quiz worth ten points: "Next, equip yourself with a man’s leather belt or a strap heavy enough to give your particular dog a good tanning. Yup-we’re going to strike him. Real hard. While he’s held in close, lay the strap vigorously against his thighs. Keep pouring it on him until he thinks it’s the bitter end. A real whaling now may cut down somewhat on the number of repeat performances that will be necessary. When you’re finished and the dog is convinced that he is," O.K., Iying "Oh YEAH! I LOVE KOEHLER" lynn, can you name that Thug?

Response:

Category Categories: Dog Behavior Aggressive | Comments No Comments »

Cute Mastiff Puppy is all teeth…

Question:

Hello bethf,

> Try YELPING ouch,

Yelping calls attention to the dog that nipping might stop you in your tracks and pay 100% of your undivided attention to him, and may overstimulate the dog to boot. > and then walking away from her when she bites you.

Figger it out. You’re suppoed to be a dog trainer. You ain’t. You shock and spray citronella and crate dogs to control behaviors and have even sprayed Binaca in your dogs eyes to stop him from anxiety barking. The dog comes over mouthing to greet and play. That’s affection. You’re so smart you’re going to reject the puppy’s overtures, and then wonder why you can’t train the dog to come. > Stop the play when she bites too hard.

Don’t you think that’ll teach the pup to be able to control you, just as you try to control them? The objective here is supposed to teach appropriate play. > As for biting other things like rugs and other objects "UHUH"

Then you’ve got to CORRECT AGAIN. And you’ve got to increase the ATTENTION GETTING PROPENSITIES of your corrections, which as you’ve already AGREED, an uhuh is just as PAINFUL as a nick from your shock collar or the WHOOSH! of your hickory stick. Or did you forget your "training" discussion with lying "I LOVE KOEHLER" lynn. > and distraction is probably the way to go.

NO. BIG PROBLEM. Distraction and praise techniques… not "uhuh" as a THREAT and give the dog a toy. That’s not training, that’s what teaches the dog to do behaviors when you’re not watching to correct them. Trading is bribery. Bribery is a lowly thing. If you want your dog to come out to play with you, make the dog want to come out there to play with YOU. ANYBODY can offer the dog a ball, you’re the only one who can offer your dog YOU. That’s why we never want to be corrective. We don’t want to call our attention to any behavior we don’t want repeated because the dog will quickly learn to pull that behavior any time he wants to stop you dead in your tracks and pay him 100% of your undivided attention. That’s what our "experts" are fighting every time they try to train a dog. That’s why they lock dogs in crates and call it training and jerk and choke and shock and kill dogs they’re afraid to hurt anymoore. > Is it working ?

Probably not becasue he’s still got the behavior problem. My methods usually extinguish these problems in a couple of days or less. > Does she stop biting the rug and bite the toy instead?

The problem is the dog still desires chewing on the couch or rug. He’ll taste it when he can. Distracting with a toy is barely managing the situation till you can figure out HOWE to extinguish the behavior. Got it? > If so, thats great!

Well, it beats a sharp stick in the eye. But ANY "uhuh" is NOT distraction, it’s intimidation. Evidenced by the golden words of our pathological liar lying "I LOVE KOEHLER" lynn who’ll do and say anything to prove herself right, fell right into defending my POV against hurting and intimidating dogs to train them. I’ll copy that post below. It’s excellent information to show you HOWE our "experts" are deceiving themselves and lying to us. If you really are a dog trainer or interested in behavior I strongly suggest you read it and discuss it with me if you have any questions. This post will explode your head. > -Beth, Pseudo usenet cop

Hello Mr. Mastiff,

> Great suggestions, I’ll work with her on them.  Thank you very

much. -MM

Now stand in the corner and dope slap yourself a few times and then study the FREE Wits’ End Dog Training Method manual. Hello People, Hello stephie,

> Understood.

That’s the problem, stephie. You don’t understand. You’ve made every handling error in creation, and continue to find moore. >  I will be speaking to our class instructor tomorrow > about some private lessons or reccommendations.

If your "instructor" had the abilitiy to help you, you’d have been done by now. I suggest you’re being taught wrong. > the prevailing theory is that his orginal owners tried to train > him.

Past is history. It’s irrelevant. > They did not realize they had a dominant personality > on their hands and he landed in the local shelter.

That’s a large part of your problem, stephanie. You’re doing the alpha dominance trip. That’s not gonna work. You’ll learn that the hard way. You’re already mostly there right now, you just don’t see it. Everything you’ve done is predictably going to cause you to lose this dog. > I in turn, upon bringing him home, unknowingly let him get the > upper hand.

You mean exactly what by that? I can’t concieve of a DOG getting the "upper hand" on anything… That’s the crux of your problem, stephie. You’ve been horribly misled about dog behavior, and that’s why you’ll continue to have big problems. > Sleeping on the bed after he proved he could be trusted not to > tear up the house was the biggie.

I’ve never imagined sleeping on the bed has ever been a problem for any dog. > His foster family had absolutely no problem with him whatsoever. > They also have 6 or 7 greyhounds, and a couple of rescue dobies. > There was no way he was going to be anywhere near alpha there.

Alpha again? As a PUPPY? > She was totally floored when I told her about his problems.

Didn’t surprise me. >  We went back for a visit…he tried to nip her young son

I’ve talked about that before. That’s why I don’t allow visits from former owners. It can make dogs dangerous for two or three days. > and she was all over him like flies on sh*t.

Now you got troubles with other children. Same as what killed Sampson. Ask steve hanson. Or ask any of our Thugs who told him to confront Sampson. >  There were no more problems the rest of the day.

RIGHT. That’s why our THUGS think confronting dogs works. They only see the pile of $#!T they step into at the moment. They don’t look for the next pile until they step in it. > That will be difficult but I know of a few kids that I can talk

to. You got a lot of work to do before screwing around with introducing him to anyone. > HOWEVER, I will work with our instructor a bit first…

I think your "instructor" has hit the wall… or you wouldn’t have TROUBLE now. > or someone she may recommend.

INDEED. If she were a competent trainer, and if she had any friends who are competent behaviorists or trainers with more experience, she’d have told you this dog needed moore help that she could offer. Like boob maida did with carol. > Humm, that’s an interesting idea.   Also, the alpha eats first.  I > make sure I eat my dinner before I even think about fixing his.

Pssst! In the big scheme of things, nobody gives a crap about who eats first… You’re supposed to be teching him to live in a civilized human family social structure, not wild dog pack. Can’t you see the difference? A wild pack behaves like that. A civilized family conducts themselves with decorum at the dinner table. > And I give my chichuaua her dinner before he gets his.

That might make him jealous. Lucky she’s a female, less likely to get hurt by him. That’s because males usually defer to females. > Yep, she is the alpha in the house.

A Chi is hardly in a position to "be alpha" over a doberman. There’s more to this than you are aware of. > tHAT By seeing everyone else eat first, that  could > give him a clue.   And he is very treat/food motivated.

No. He’s not going to get any clue for watching everyone else eat first. Forget that alpha and dominance crap. That’s half your trouble with him. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Now about the attempts to attack passersby and >visitors: Were this my dog, I would pull my cap >off my head, yell a term he knows to mean "no >aggression," and whack him on the but *the very >moment* he exhibited the desire to attack a child. >(This is about the only time I would ever even >mock hit my dog)  The dog has to know that such >aggression is *not tolerated* at all–that it is >wrong!  (I know someone who has so strongly taught >his terrier not to bite, that you cannot get it to >put your hand in its mouth.) > Hummmm, I will have to think on that one.  When he was deep in > the  throws of problems with "puppy biting",  he would want to > play..and  would run in circles around me, darting in and out to > nip.  A squirt  bottle finally got it under control..(this is only an > occasional occurance now)….but every once in a while when I > forgot the bottle,  he would get way out of hand and  out of shear > anger, I would pop him hard on the muzzle..that earned me > another nip.  I was wrong, I admit it and I felt like crap

afterwards. And now you’re going to start paying back for past mistakes, as the mistakes you may today, you’ll be paying for tommorow. Dogs don’t think like you think they do… > But, a couple of times I caught him counter surfing and half > swatted him on the butt with a towel.

Another good reason not to use food with him while trying to introduce him to strangers. He’s liable to think back to that counter incident as he sees someone holding food at that same height, and he’s histroy… > That caused him to tuck under and  slink off.  Hummmmmmmm. > Yep, I have to think about that.

I suggest you don’t bother thinking about anything, that’s half your damn problem till now. You’ve been misled by our fear, force, and control freaks, and you’re going to be further misled, and your dog will end up dead. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->You expressed something that worries me a bit. >When you were talking about getting him a muzzle, >you mentioned maybe needing it for protection >yourself.  Now, if you are in fact in danger, that >is a very bad thing.  I also wonder because of >that if the dog accepts you as the clich

Category Categories: Dog Behavior Aggressive | Comments No Comments »

About Akitas…

Question:

Most conscientious breeders of ANY breed try to discourage new parents from taking on a puppy until the children are older.   In the case of an Akita, most breeders should REALLY be hesitant to place a pup in such a situation except in extenuating circumstances, like a family that’s had Akitas for decades or someone with extensive experience with another powerful breed and children who are growing up within the dog-centric culture, where appropriate behavior around dogs is compulsory from toddlerhood and the household is set up in such a way that visiting children would not accidentally interact with any dog without direct adult supervision. The fact that you appear somewhat naive about the challenges you’re facing prompts some questions about the breeder you got your pup from, and whether the puppy you got comes from a line of stable temperaments.  (Note: a stable temperament in an Akita is quite different from a stable temperament in traditional "family" dogs.  It doesn’t mean worse, but it’s far more complicated) It doesn’t mean the dog you have will become Cujo — it just means that you must be doing everything you can to ensure that it’s developing properly socially.  Your best bet might be to link up with an online Akita discussion group and see if you can arrange to meet a local experienced Akita person who can visit with your pup and give you some feedback about how hard or soft he appears to be, and serve as a mentor in the coming months as the dog grows.  These folks can also steer you to obedience groups and maybe some playgroups that are supervised by experienced people who can assess the dog’s interactions with other pups and give you more hints on what to nurture and what to work on. Best of luck to you and your pup! kassa

Response:

I know this will sound harsh, but an Akita was probably not the best choice given that you will have small children around for many years to come.  I owned an Akita for 15 years, (R.I.P, dottie-girl).  They’re a wonderful breed, but really shouldn’t be around strange children.   They’re very protective, and can misread child’s play.  Read up on this breed and socialize the dog extensively.  Be VERY firm in your training, and never allow the dog around ANY child, even your own.. unsupervised. MM

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> | Hello all!  My husband and I bought an Akita puppy about a month ago. She > | is three months old now, and aside from a few minor problems > (housebreaking, > | digging), she really is a wonderful addition to our family.  We did a lot > of > | reading on various breeds and couldn’t decide between a Samoyed and Akita. > | I read that Akitas are very gentle with children, but they are very > | protective of their owners and property.  We read so many positive things > | about Akitas, that we decided that the breed would be perfect.  We have a > | fifteen-month-old baby, and I was wondering if there is anything negative > | that we should specifically be aware of.  Reading a few books ultimately > I’m surprised your reading didn’t reveal the common view that Akitas are > dangerous to children.  The books that leave this out are usually books on > the breed, which are not to be trusted to point out the negatives. > Akitas and Samoyeds are night and day. > Paws to Consider, a book on choosing the right dog for your family, lists > Akitas in the ‘not recommended for most owners’ category. > The Right Dog for You, by Daniel Tortora, Ph.D., lists Akitas as one of the > most aggressive breeds, and further states that they are dangerous to > children they are not raised with. > At this point, you should either place your dog with a more ideal home, or > you should do the following. > Read extensively on socializing your puppy.  Take her to play with gentle > children as frequently as you can.  Never let her be frightened by children. > Discourage rough playing, tug-o-war, etc.  Give her lots of attention when > around your baby and others so that she associates them positively.  Etc. > Read up.  Maybe consult a recommended dog behaviorist. > Also check on the pup’s parents to see if they are gentle and good with > children.  Genetics plays a big part in this facet of Akitas.  Also, puppies > pick up behavior cues from their mother.  If she growled at someone, a child > perhaps, around the puppies, she may have influenced them. > I rescued an Akita at about 7 months.  My girlfriend and I gave her tons of > attention and took her to meet people of all ages whenever possible.  She > still turned out prone to growl at strangers, even when we were signaling > they were friends. > She’s a great dog, though very willful.  But I would not trust her with > strange children. > Jeff > Jeff Harper > jeff#doplay.com

Response:

| Hello all!  My husband and I bought an Akita puppy about a month ago.  She | is three months old now, and aside from a few minor problems (housebreaking, | digging), she really is a wonderful addition to our family.  We did a lot of | reading on various breeds and couldn’t decide between a Samoyed and Akita. | I read that Akitas are very gentle with children, but they are very | protective of their owners and property.  We read so many positive things | about Akitas, that we decided that the breed would be perfect.  We have a | fifteen-month-old baby, and I was wondering if there is anything negative | that we should specifically be aware of.  Reading a few books ultimately I’m surprised your reading didn’t reveal the common view that Akitas are dangerous to children.  The books that leave this out are usually books on the breed, which are not to be trusted to point out the negatives. Akitas and Samoyeds are night and day. Paws to Consider, a book on choosing the right dog for your family, lists Akitas in the ‘not recommended for most owners’ category. The Right Dog for You, by Daniel Tortora, Ph.D., lists Akitas as one of the most aggressive breeds, and further states that they are dangerous to children they are not raised with. At this point, you should either place your dog with a more ideal home, or you should do the following. Read extensively on socializing your puppy.  Take her to play with gentle children as frequently as you can.  Never let her be frightened by children. Discourage rough playing, tug-o-war, etc.  Give her lots of attention when around your baby and others so that she associates them positively.  Etc. Read up.  Maybe consult a recommended dog behaviorist. Also check on the pup’s parents to see if they are gentle and good with children.  Genetics plays a big part in this facet of Akitas.  Also, puppies pick up behavior cues from their mother.  If she growled at someone, a child perhaps, around the puppies, she may have influenced them. I rescued an Akita at about 7 months.  My girlfriend and I gave her tons of attention and took her to meet people of all ages whenever possible.  She still turned out prone to growl at strangers, even when we were signaling they were friends. She’s a great dog, though very willful.  But I would not trust her with strange children. Jeff Jeff Harper jeff#doplay.com

Response:

I breed Akitas, and the problems I see come from teasing the dog.  Also messing with him/her when he/she is eating.  I have no problems with my kids around the dogs, but I generally keep the male away from strange children. I would worry about small children who do not respect your dog.  Neutering and sociallizing it with the child when it is still a puppy will likely increase your success.  Also, determine the agressiveness of the line.  Some of my dogs are more aggressive than others. Good luck.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hello all!  My husband and I bought an Akita puppy about a month ago.  She > is three months old now, and aside from a few minor problems (housebreaking, > digging), she really is a wonderful addition to our family.  We did a lot of > reading on various breeds and couldn’t decide between a Samoyed and Akita. > I read that Akitas are very gentle with children, but they are very > protective of their owners and property.  We read so many positive things > about Akitas, that we decided that the breed would be perfect.  We have a > fifteen-month-old baby, and I was wondering if there is anything negative > that we should specifically be aware of.  Reading a few books ultimately > does not replace personal accounts, and I’m wondering if any Akita owners > out there could give us some advice.  Thanks! > Kristin Cole

Response:

oh boy, if you chose an akita over a samoyed for a family with a baby, thats a real lack of education on your part. I would absolutely get involved with a) a puppy school b) some akita people, so you can ENSURE that this dog remains a wonderful addition to your family. — -Beth, Pseudo usenet cop Merlin MTB, BikeE AT, RANS gliss and Trek R200 Owned by Kavik (Samoyed Boy) Anchorage, Alaska

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hello all!  My husband and I bought an Akita puppy about a month ago.  She > is three months old now, and aside from a few minor problems (housebreaking, > digging), she really is a wonderful addition to our family.  We did a lot of > reading on various breeds and couldn’t decide between a Samoyed and Akita. > I read that Akitas are very gentle with children, but they are very > protective of their owners and property.  We read so many positive things > about Akitas, that we decided that the breed would be perfect.  We have a > fifteen-month-old baby, and I was wondering if there is anything negative > that we should specifically be aware of.  Reading a few books ultimately > does not replace personal accounts, and I’m wondering if any Akita owners > out there could give us some advice.  Thanks! > Kristin Cole

Response:

Hello all!  My husband and I bought an Akita puppy about a month ago.  She is three months old now, and aside from a few minor problems (housebreaking, digging), she really is a wonderful addition to our family.  We did a lot of reading on various breeds and couldn’t decide between a Samoyed and Akita. I read that Akitas are very gentle with children, but they are very protective of their owners and property.  We read so many positive things about Akitas, that we decided that the breed would be perfect.  We have a fifteen-month-old baby, and I was wondering if there is anything negative that we should specifically be aware of.  Reading a few books ultimately does not replace personal accounts, and I’m wondering if any Akita owners out there could give us some advice.  Thanks! Kristin Cole

Response:

>Reading a few books ultimately > does not replace personal accounts, and I’m wondering if any Akita owners > out there could give us some advice.  Thanks!

I believe I’d be searching Yahoo groups and getting on a good Akita email list. These are huge powerful dogs, and asking questions like this after actual acquisition tells me you need a good support group <g>. These email list put you in constant contact with experienced folks who can help you lay a proper foundation for this puppy. A child that is 15 months old now will have hordes of friends running around in 4-5 years, and you need to be secure with all aspects of your dogs behavior. A well bred Akita can be a wonderful dog… and the breeder of such a dog would be available to help and put you in touch with Akita folks in your immediate area. Has your breeder suggested anything? — Toni http://www.irish-wolfhounds.com

Response:

Category Categories: Dog Behavior Aggressive | Comments No Comments »

Akita Biting Problem.

Question:

Hi everyone,     l desperately need some advise and l was hoping that you may be able to help me.  l have rescued an akita from the RSPCA (Rescue).  He was the only dog that was not barking, he seemed tame and took direction well, but he was also very underweight.  After getting him through dietary diarrhoea and alot of dietary changes he is now filling out and has become alot stronger and his coat is looking alot better. A beautiful dog who has had some training, he sits, stays, shakes and gets out when is told to.     He sometimes becomes distressed in the car and he will try to bite through his lead or harness, otherwise he will either try to bite the front seat or lick my arm for attention.  He is afraid of water, even a handful, l gave him a bone and he liked it but he did not chew it. The problem is that he mouths alot and plays hard, he runs around in a circle and is totally alert, he goes balistic.   Then he will stand to face you totally alert and will not move until you do but sometimes its like a hunter.     l do have some understanding of working dogs and l have had some experience with big and aggressive dogs, but l was suprised by the temprement of this dog.  l think he may of been beaten by a previous owner. He tends to be intimidated by men and when knows he has done something wrong, he crawls on the ground, head and ears dropped and wets himself, totally submissive.     l am concerned because, he has snapped at me a couple of times (during his playful moods) and l did not do anything to provoke such a response, actually l was just standing there.  Sometimes he nibbles me like dogs do at flees.  Most of the time when l try to pat him, he mouths me and when l ignore him, he mouths me even more.  l tell him NO and STOP very loudly but he is becoming very assertive and l need some idea on how to handle this dog.  So far, l have not found anything that can help me. Lately, he has begun to bite me, even when he wags his tail?? l tell him NO, No Biting, but he only stops temporarily. He only bites me in the back yard when l go out there.  When he is out on a lead, he is a different dog. l am really at a loss, l am looking for signs of danger, now that l see his aggressive tendancies but l do not know what to look for in THIS BREED. If l take him back to the RSPCA (Rescue), they will destroy him. What do you think?  Any suggestions, l really would like to save this dog if Thanks Cam,

Response:

Hello Cam,

> Hi everyone,

Got to be careful around here. Our "experts" like to attempt to dominate dogs like this, and usually end up getting bit and kill them. >     l desperately need some advise

That’s what they’ll play on to convince you to HURT your dog MOORE than you’d LIKE, to save him from the needle, of course. > and l was hoping that you may be able to help me.

Our Gang Of Thugs will tell you to confront, punsh, and follow the "N.I.L.I.F program." Sometimes it works. That’s their intermittent reward, that keeps our Thugs confronting and hurting dogs to enforce their "authority" over them.  When you hear "trainers" talking about alpha and dominance, RUN LIKE HELL. > l have rescued an akita from the RSPCA (Rescue).

Nice dogs. > He was the only dog that was not barking, he seemed > tame and took direction well, but he was also very > underweight.  After getting him through dietary diarrhoea > and alot of dietary changes he is now filling out and has > become alot stronger and his coat is looking alot better. > A beautiful dog who has had some training, he sits, stays, > shakes and gets out when is told to. He sometimes > becomes distressed in the car and he will try to bite > through his lead or harness, otherwise he will either try to > bite the front seat or lick my arm for attention.

O.K. Sounds like he’s objecting to being tied in the car. You’ll need to get him used to being tied.There’s lots of things you can do to calm him down in the car, and interrupt his anixety behavior and extinguish it. > He is afraid of water, even a handful, l gave him a bone > and he liked it but he did not chew it. > The problem is that he mouths alot and plays hard,

Don’t engage him in excitable play. Keep everything low key and pleasant. No corrections. No confrontation. No scolding. No NO. And don’t believe anyone who tells you you’re gonna back him down or use a firm hand. That will provoke him. > he runs around in a circle and is totally alert, he goes > balistic.

Let him enjoy that by himself outside if that’s acceptable to you. Break him of doing that inside using varialble sound distracton and praise techniques. > Then he will stand to face you totally alert and will not > move until you do but sometimes its like a hunter.

He’s playing. There’s a fine line between play and aggression. Don’t engage him in any excitable or excessively rough play activity. >     l do have some understanding of working dogs and l > have had some experience with big and aggressive dogs, > but l was suprised by the temprement of this dog.

He’s unsure of himself. He’s trying to figure out HOWE he’s supposed to act. >  l think he may of been beaten by a previous owner.

That’s probably got a lot to do with the problems you’re having with him now. > He tends to be intimidated by men and when knows he > has done something wrong,

Don’t tell him he’s done anything wrong, that’s going to confuse and challenge him someMOORE. You’ll provoke him. > he crawls on the ground, head and ears dropped and wets > himself, totally submissive.

That makes some of our dog trainers very satisfied. They "know" they’ve done a good job subordinating and dominating the cunning puppy dog. >     l am concerned because, he has snapped at me a > couple of times (during his playful moods)

Right. That’s play. But there’s a fine line there. Don’t engage him in that activity. Interrupt those moments with sound distraction and praise techniques. An instant come command will break him out of that, if distraction doesn’t work. But you’ve got to follow the techniques, and it all starts with the Family Leadership Exercise, or you’ll not extinguish the behavior. That’s the one exercise that makes everything else fall into place. It’s all in the Wits’ End Dog Training Method manual available for FREE at http://www.doggydoright.com > and l did not do anything to provoke such a response, > actually l was just standing there.

Don’t stand there. When you think he’s getting ready to start playing like that, distract and praise and follow the method to extinguish the behavior. > Sometimes he nibbles me like dogs do at flees.

That’s affection. If you don’t like it, be careful you’re not rejecting him as you change that behavior, or you’ll provoke him. Our "experts" might even consider flea biting behavoir to be dominance. Everything is dominance with them. They’re frightened of dogs, and that’s the only way they can defend retaliating on a physical level, out of fear. > Most of the time when l try to pat him, he mouths me

Mouthing is BONDING behavior. > and  when l ignore him,

You reject him. > he mouths me even more.

He WANTS you to BOND with him. > l tell him NO and STOP very loudly

Yes. No wonder he’s going to go out of control. He’s barkng up the wrong tree every time he tries to make friends with you. > but he is becoming very assertive

The way I like to look at things and relationships in life is, if your not on my side, you’re against me. Don’t have to entertain someone who’s not a supporter, so he could care less about your feelings. He wants to play, PERIOD. > and l need some idea on how to handle this dog.

You’ll be told you need professional instruction because we can’t SEE the behavior here (belly laugh). You’ll given some domnance techniques and be told it’s gonna take months of daily training and and months of weekly obedience classes where you’ll be told to enforce discipline with a pronged choke collar, and to assault and punish your dog for any percieved challenges to your "authority." And if that don’t work, they’ll pass around the crying towel and tell you that you dun good, and you dun everything you could, and the dog must have come from bad breeding… and you should be glad you killed him, because he was "never quite right." > So far, l have not found anything that can help me. > Lately, he has begun to bite me, even when he wags his > tail??

That’s more play. Don’t get involved with his inappropriate play activity. Don’t challenge him. Don’t respond with an "eek" or a NO. That’ll involve you either as a peer, competitior, or PREY. > l tell him NO,

Stop that. > No Biting,

Stop threatening. > but he only stops temporarily.

Right. Because you didn’t praise him when you interrupted him, he goes back to the behavior. You’re training him incorrectly, according to the advice you’ve been given by the "experts" who’ll tell you to challenge and try to dominate him. > He only bites me in the back yard when l go out there.

Right. That’s more neutral territory than inside. He’s used to playing and roughousing there. > When he is out on a lead, he is a different dog.

Right. He’s been intimidated to conrol himself. That may be why he goes so out of control on you. It’s stressful for him to contain himself, and the pipe’s got to burst at some point. > l am really at a loss, l am looking for signs of danger, now > that l see his aggressive tendancies but l do not know > what to look for in THIS BREED.

A dog is a dog. Most of what you’ve been taught about dog behavior is quite mistaken, and compels this kind of behavior by challenging, confronting, punishing, and repressing the dog’s natural, instinctive, reflexive behaviors, instead of USING them to our advantage as Nature intended. > If l take him back to the RSPCA (Rescue), they will > destroy him.

Yes. They’re probably only slightly better than our facilities. Here, we’ve got punks like janet boss and john richardson and lying"I LOVE KOEHLER,"lynn, and cindymooron who’ll jerk the dogs around for a while to determine if they’re safe enough to adopt, or just KILL THEM TO BE FAIR. > What do you think?

I think we need to reassess our shelter and rescue folks and the information and behavior modification programs they rely on and teach us. They’re doing a miserable job, and need to be rehabilitated and retrained themselves. > Any suggestions, l really would like to save this dog if

Yes. Don’t let the Thugs convince you that you need to take a firm hand and confront this dog… Read the Wits’ End Dog Training Method manual available for FREE at http://www.doggydoright.com, and ask me if you need more help. > Thanks Cam,

Ask yourself "WHY DOESN’T JERRY HURT DOGS TO TRAIN THEM?" And then just answer "BECAUSE JERRY KNOWS HOWE TO TRAIN DOGS WITHOUT HURTING THEM." And THEN SAY OUT LOUD: "IGNORE JERRY, HE’S MEAN TO DOG ABUSERS." You can get all the information you need to PROPERLY handle and train your dog using non force, non confronatational, scientific and psychological methods, in the Wits’ End Dog Training Method manual available for free at http://www.doggydoright.com The Wits’ End Dog Training Method manual is provided compliments of  the BIOSOUND Scientific Elves as an alternative to Doggy Do Right (and Kitty Will Too). Your pal, Jerry "The Phony," Howe. j;~}

Response:

Cam- hopefully somebody on this group will have some experience with Akitas and be able to help. It might also be worth checking out these e-mail lists: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Akita-Adopters http://groups.yahoo.com/group/AGAA http://groups.yahoo.com/group/AkitaLovers http://groups.yahoo.com/group/UK_Akitas

Response:

Hello sionnach,

> Cam- hopefully somebody on this group will have some > experience with Akitas

Because nobody here except Jerry "The PHONY," Howe knows what to do abut this. > and be able to help.

I suggest they go to Japan where the dog comes from… Or read about properly handling and training their dog from the Wits’ End Dog Training Method manual available for FREE at http://www.doggydoright.com > It might also be worth checking out these e-mail lists:

I’d sooner start with a trip to Japan… or read the FREE training manual at http://www.doggydoright.com But you’d rather HURT dogs than admit that JERRY is right: > Hey, do like me, and killfile Jerry. > He has millions of people aleady reading his posts and > watching him extract his soggy  foot out of his mouth! > Out of these MILLIONS, I’ve only seen 2 naive childs > come forward and actually believe in his training manual. Rober Crim writes:

I assume that I and my wife are those two naive childs since I freely admit to having read and, I hope, understood enough of the manual and it’s counterparts by John Fisher and the posts of Marylin Rammell to believe and use it.  This naive child would like to say thank you to both Jerry and Marylin for putting up with a constant barrage of really infantile crap at the hands of supposedly adult dog lovers. The other naive child (LSW) has to put up with the nagging idea that if people like them had been posting earlier, maybe we would not have had to hold the head of a really magnificent animal in our arms while he was given the needle and having to hug him and wait until he gasped his last gasp. To my mind, "naive" is believing you can terrorize a dog into good behavior.  Naive is believing that people that hide behind fake names are more honest than people that use their real names.  Naive is thinking that dilettante dog breeders and amateur "trainers" like Joey (lyingdogDUMMY, j.h.) are the equal or better than those that have studied and lived by their craft for decades. "Stupid" is believing that people do not see kindergarten level insults for what they are.   Really stupid is believing that people like Jerry Howe and Marylin Rammell are going to just go away because you people act like fools.  Why do you act like fools?  I really have no idea, and I don’t really care. > admit to buying and having success with his little black > box.

I think I’m going to get one myself for Father’s day and take it down to the Animal Shelter for their use and testing.  You would never believe the results, so you’ll never know. > Anyone by now that doesn’t see a scam man coming by > Jerry’s posts deserves to get what is sure to be coming to > him! LOL!

I don’t see a "scam man", so I guess I and Longsuffering Wife and Rollei will just have to get what we deserve, eh? As Joey (Dogman) says, "poor Rollei."…….right. >Terri

Yes it was, and that is sad. Robert, Longsuffering Wife and Rollei (do I get to listen to the box first?) END OF POST Hello People, Robert Crim was a former Gang Of Thugs Member, and hated me a much as the rest of our Thugs do. Robert was a long time friend and prominent contributor to rpdb, till Jerry came along and smartened him up. He learned the hard way, and no longer posts to his former pals, because it is just too painful knowing his pals would rather HURT and KILL their dogs than to admit that JERRY is RIGHT.

Response:

Hi Cam, I rescued a seven month old akita from the Humane Society and have experienced the biting behavior you describe.  Here are my thoughts and what we did. It seems akitas play rough.  And being dogs, they have no way to grab things with other than their mouths.  The biting/snapping/nipping/mouthing you are describing are all either play or affection.  Rough as they may seem, if he were really biting out of aggression, you’d recognize a big difference. I.  Mouthing From what I have experienced and read, I would definitely agree with Jerry Howe that the mouthing is "bonding" behavior.  My akita only does that with me and the people she is close to. Your akita is saying, "I like you a lot. I really do. Let’s be friends for life, okay? I like being with you." You are lucky he is doing that. It’s a compliment. It’s sincere affection. Give him affection back. You have to be very careful not to hurt his self-esteem by rejecting him. Here’s what we did with our Hanna: We let her do it unless it hurt.  If she misjudged the pressure and hurt us, we would let her know by saying "Ow! No biting, no biting" and then say "good girl" when she let go.  The praise really made her feel good and actually made her less likely to resume the hard mouthing.  It took a while for her to catch on to this, but now she understands the words "Ow" and "no biting." II. Nipping with the front teeth (like at fleas) I read up on this behavior and was surprised to learn that it is also pure affection.  Again, if it hurts, and it does tend to pinch the skin, we go the "Ow, no biting" route and follow with praise when she stops.  With akitas, praise goes a long ways.  Sometimes she very noticeably puts more pep into her stride when I praise her as we are walking.  "Hannah good girl. Hannah good girl. Hannah very good girl!" III.  Snapping and biting This play behavior can be very tiresome.  A couple of weeks after I got Hannah, she started wanting to play all the time.  I remember lying on the couch reading, wishing the couch had hydraulic lifts that would elevate me out of her reach.  She also tended to bite hard and cause a little pain. She would grow bored if I just let her bite at my limp hand and arm, so that is the tactic I took at first.  But my girlfriend couldn’t take the biting at all..it hurt her. So, we read up and this is what we did: I would say "No biting, no biting." Remove my body part from her mouth and offer up a large rope chew toy for her to tug on, saying "good girl!" as she shifted her attention to something she was encouraged to chew on. If this tactic failed for my girlfriend, she would stick her fingers far into the dog’s mouth causing it discomfort, or she would pinch the very front of the lower jaw just a bit.  Then, Hannah would be more interested in the rope toy being offered than her unpleasant hand and would be rewarded profusely.  The gagging and pinching method was very effective, but I felt bad for the dog, who after all was just wanting to play.  I would suggest it only in instances where the dog has ignored the verbal commands and the offer of a rope chew and is still hurting you.  If Jerry Howe or someone else has a good alternative, try it out.  If you use it, always follow up with praise when the dog starts behaving more properly.  Don’t leave him feeling bad about himself (and they do) for trying to play. Again, this took a while, but now Hannah doesn’t bite much and never hard, and she stops when told. She also will sometimes carry her rope toy over to get us to play tug-o-war instead of biting us for play. I would guess that age has a lot to do with the constant playing/play biting.  As your dog gets a bit older, he will probably want to do it less. Giving Hannah lots of exercise and interesting experiences outdoors (new walks and runs) made her happier and also less interested in constant play biting. Good luck, Jeff

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi everyone, >     l desperately need some advise and l was hoping that you may be able to > help me.  l have rescued an akita from the RSPCA (Rescue).  He was the only > dog that was not barking, he seemed tame and took direction well, but he was > also very underweight.  After getting him through dietary diarrhoea and alot > of dietary changes he is now filling out and has become alot stronger and > his coat is looking alot better. > A beautiful dog who has had some training, he sits, stays, shakes and gets > out when is told to. >     He sometimes becomes distressed in the car and he will try to bite > through his lead or harness, otherwise he will either try to bite the front > seat or lick my arm for attention.  He is afraid of water, even a handful, l > gave him a bone and he liked it but he did not chew it. > The problem is that he mouths alot and plays hard, he runs around in a > circle and is totally alert, he goes balistic.   Then he will stand to face > you totally alert and will not move until you do but sometimes its like a > hunter. >     l do have some understanding of working dogs and l have had some > experience with big and aggressive dogs, but l was suprised by the > temprement of this dog.  l think he may of been beaten by a previous owner. > He tends to be intimidated by men and when knows he has done something > wrong, he crawls on the ground, head and ears dropped and wets himself, > totally submissive. >     l am concerned because, he has snapped at me a couple of times (during > his playful moods) and l did not do anything to provoke such a response, > actually l was just standing there.  Sometimes he nibbles me like dogs do at > flees.  Most of the time when l try to pat him, he mouths me and when l > ignore him, he mouths me even more.  l tell him NO and STOP very loudly but > he is becoming very assertive and l need some idea on how to handle this > dog.  So far, l have not found anything that can help me. > Lately, he has begun to bite me, even when he wags his tail?? > l tell him NO, No Biting, but he only stops temporarily. > He only bites me in the back yard when l go out there.  When he is out on a > lead, he is a different dog. > l am really at a loss, l am looking for signs of danger, now that l see his > aggressive tendancies but l do not know what to look for in THIS BREED. > If l take him back to the RSPCA (Rescue), they will destroy him. > What do you think?  Any suggestions, l really would like to save this dog if > Thanks Cam,

Response:

Cam, If you feel you have a dominance/aggression problem, which it does NOT sound like to me, you may want to try the following (from http://www.ddfl.org/behavior/dominance.htm): Dominance aggression problems are unlikely to go away without your taking steps to resolve them. Treatment of dominance aggression problems should always be supervised by an animal behavior specialist, since dominant aggressive dogs can be potentially dangerous. The following techniques (which don’t require a physical confrontation with your dog) can help you gain some control: Spay or neuter your dog to reduce hormonal contributions to aggression. NOTE: After a mature animal has been spayed or neutered, it may take time for those hormones to clear from the system. Also, long-standing behavior patterns may continue even after the hormones or other causes no longer exist. "Nothing in Life is Free" is a safe, non-confrontational way to establish your leadership and requires your dog to work for everything he gets from you (see our handout: "Nothing in Life is Free"). Have your dog obey at least one command (such as "sit") before you pet him, give him dinner, put on his leash or throw a toy for him. If your dog doesn’t know any commands or doesn’t perform them reliably, you’ll first have to teach him, using positive reinforcement, and practice with him daily. You may need to seek professional help if your dog is not obeying each time you ask after two to three weeks of working on a command. Don’t feed your dog people food from the table and don’t allow begging. Don’t play "tug of war," wrestle or play roughly with your dog. Ignore barking and jumping up. Don’t allow your dog on the furniture or your bed, as this is a privilege reserved for leaders. If your dog growls or snaps when you try to remove him from the furniture, use a treat to lure him off. Otherwise, try to limit his access to your bed and/or furniture by using baby gates, a crate, or by closing doors. Always remember to reward good behavior. Consult your veterinarian about acupuncture, massage therapy or drug therapy. Obedience classes may be helpful in establishing a relationship between you and your dog in which you give commands and he obeys them (be sure to choose a trainer who uses positive reinforcement methods). Obedience classes alone, however, won’t necessarily prevent or reduce dominance aggression. http://www.ddfl.org/behavior/pupnip.htm

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi everyone, >     l desperately need some advise and l was hoping that you may be able to > help me.  l have rescued an akita from the RSPCA (Rescue).  He was the only > dog that was not barking, he seemed tame and took direction well, but he was > also very underweight.  After getting him through dietary diarrhoea and alot > of dietary changes he is now filling out and has become alot stronger and > his coat is looking alot better. > A beautiful dog who has had some training, he sits, stays, shakes and gets > out when is told to. >     He sometimes becomes distressed in the car and he will try to bite > through his lead or harness, otherwise he will either try to bite the front > seat or lick my arm for attention.  He is afraid of water, even a handful, l > gave him a bone and he liked it but he did not chew it. > The problem is that he mouths alot and plays hard, he runs around in a > circle and is totally alert, he goes balistic.   Then he will stand to face > you totally alert and will not move until you do but sometimes its like a > hunter. >     l do have some understanding of working dogs and l have had some > experience with big and aggressive dogs, but l was suprised by the > temprement of this dog.  l think he may of been beaten by a previous owner. > He tends to be intimidated by men and when knows he has done something > wrong, he crawls on the ground, head and ears dropped and wets himself, > totally submissive. >     l am concerned because, he has snapped at me a couple of times (during > his playful moods) and l did not do anything to provoke such a response, > actually l was just standing there.  Sometimes he nibbles me like dogs do at > flees.  Most of the time when l try to pat him, he mouths me and when l > ignore him, he mouths me even more.  l tell him NO and STOP very loudly but > he is becoming very assertive and l need some idea on how to handle this > dog.  So far, l have not found anything that can help me. > Lately, he has begun to bite me, even when he wags his tail?? > l tell him NO, No Biting, but he only stops temporarily. > He only bites me in the back yard when l go out there.  When he is out on a > lead, he is a different dog. > l am really at a loss, l am looking for signs of danger, now that l see his > aggressive tendancies but l do not know what to look for in THIS BREED. > If l take him back to the RSPCA (Rescue), they will destroy him. > What do you think?  Any suggestions, l really would like to save this dog if > Thanks Cam,

Response:

>> It might also be worth checking out these e-mail lists: >I’d sooner start with a trip to Japan… or read the FREE training manual at >http://www.doggydoright.com

Showing again just HOWE stupid you really are.

Response:

Hello People, We always hear "trainers" say to enforce commands. Don’t give a command unless you intend to follow through with it. "Reinforcement NEVER ends," (unless you know HOWE to TRAIN the dog). That’s kind of a dichotomy, I think. Doesn’t training SUPPOSED to END A PROBLEM, not mean that we’re supposed to CONSTANTLY WORRY about the behavior we’ve ALLEGEDLY trained??? WHAT GIVES, PEOPLE? We got trainer telling us to constantly correct dogs who’ve ALREADY been trained??? THAT’S NOT MY EXPECTATION OF TRAINING. The Nothing In Life Is Free method is touted as being the most effective way of dominating an obstreperous dog. The idea is to cause the dog to subordinate himself to the "AUTHORITY" of his trainer, and increase the dog’s respect for his handler. O.K. Respect and authority are separate issues from where I’m going with this. The entire concept of dominance is wrong, but we’ll put that off to another thread. What do we do, when we are putting this aggressive or out of control dog through the nilif program, and he chooses NOT to do what he’s TOLD to? Are we supposed to give a command we KNOW cannot be enforced, say for example with a dog who won’t allow us to handle him? Don’t you think you’re going to look rather silly to the dog, telling him that YOU are going through the door first, and he’s ALREADY pulling you outside? Or when you tell him to sit before feeding him his breakfast, and he’s already for a toothpick? Suppose Fido has an attitude, and you’re trying to shove some food in his head. You tell him to sit, and he doesn’t sit. So, he don’t get his dinner. No big deal, he’ll learn, RIGHT? That may mean he’s going to wait till the next meal time. When you tell him to sit before taking his breakfast, he’s ALREADY quite eager to eat, and here’s poor little YOU, telling him that he’s not going to eat till he sits. So, you put him back in his crate. The dog is going to figure this out REAL quick. Either sit, or don’t eat, RIGHT? So, next meal time, you take him to his food bowl, and tell him to sit, and he takes one look at his breakfast from two days ago, and says "uh, uh. I’m eatin, go pound sand." NOW WHAT? Next In Line Is a Fight. THAT’S THE N.I.L.I.F. PROGRAM. Someone’s gonna get HURT. Ask yourself "WHY DOESN’T JERRY HURT DOGS TO TRAIN THEM?" And then just answer "BECAUSE JERRY KNOWS HOWE TO TRAIN DOGS WITHOUT HURTING THEM." And THEN SAY OUT LOUD: "IGNORE JERRY, HE’S MEAN TO DOG ABUSERS." You can get all the information you need to PROPERLY handle and train your dog using non force, non confronatational, scientific and psychological methods, in the Wits’ End Dog Training Method manual available for free at http://www.doggydoright.com The Wits’ End Dog Training Method manual is provided courtesy of  the BIOSOUND Scientific Elves as an alternative to Doggy Do Right (and Kitty Will Too). Your pal, Jerry "The Phony," Howe.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Cam, > If you feel you have a dominance/aggression problem, which it does NOT sound > like to me, you may want to try the following (from > http://www.ddfl.org/behavior/dominance.htm): > Dominance aggression problems are unlikely to go away without your taking > steps to resolve them. Treatment of dominance aggression problems should > always be supervised by an animal behavior specialist, since dominant > aggressive dogs can be potentially dangerous. > The following techniques (which don’t require a physical confrontation with > your dog) can help you gain some control: > Spay or neuter your dog to reduce hormonal contributions to aggression. > NOTE: After a mature animal has been spayed or neutered, it may take time > for those hormones to clear from the system. Also, long-standing behavior > patterns may continue even after the hormones or other causes no longer > exist. > "Nothing in Life is Free" is a safe, non-confrontational way to establish > your leadership and requires your dog to work for everything he gets from > you (see our handout: "Nothing in Life is Free"). Have your dog obey at > least one command (such as "sit") before you pet him, give him dinner, put > on his leash or throw a toy for him. If your dog doesn’t know any commands > or doesn’t perform them reliably, you’ll first have to teach him, using > positive reinforcement, and practice with him daily. You may need to seek > professional help if your dog is not obeying each time you ask after two to > three weeks of working on a command. > Don’t feed your dog people food from the table and don’t allow begging. > Don’t play "tug of war," wrestle or play roughly with your dog. > Ignore barking and jumping up. > Don’t allow your dog on the furniture or your bed, as this is a privilege > reserved for leaders. If your dog growls or snaps when you try to remove him > from the furniture, use a treat to lure him off. Otherwise, try to limit his > access to your bed and/or furniture by using baby gates, a crate, or by > closing doors. > Always remember to reward good behavior. > Consult your veterinarian about acupuncture, massage therapy or drug > therapy. > Obedience classes may be helpful in establishing a relationship between you > and your dog in which you give commands and he obeys them (be sure to choose > a trainer who uses positive reinforcement methods). Obedience classes alone, > however, won’t necessarily prevent or reduce dominance aggression. > http://www.ddfl.org/behavior/pupnip.htm > Hi everyone, >     l desperately need some advise and l was hoping that you may be able > to > help me.  l have rescued an akita from the RSPCA (Rescue).  He was the > only > dog that was not barking, he seemed tame and took direction well, but he > was > also very underweight.  After getting him through dietary diarrhoea and > alot > of dietary changes he is now filling out and has become alot stronger and > his coat is looking alot better. > A beautiful dog who has had some training, he sits, stays, shakes and gets > out when is told to. >     He sometimes becomes distressed in the car and he will try to bite > through his lead or harness, otherwise he will either try to bite the > front > seat or lick my arm for attention.  He is afraid of water, even a handful, > l > gave him a bone and he liked it but he did not chew it. > The problem is that he mouths alot and plays hard, he runs around in a > circle and is totally alert, he goes balistic.   Then he will stand to > face > you totally alert and will not move until you do but sometimes its like a > hunter. >     l do have some understanding of working dogs and l have had some > experience with big and aggressive dogs, but l was suprised by the > temprement of this dog.  l think he may of been beaten by a previous > owner. > He tends to be intimidated by men and when knows he has done something > wrong, he crawls on the ground, head and ears dropped and wets himself, > totally submissive. >     l am concerned because, he has snapped at me a couple of times (during > his playful moods) and l did not do anything to provoke such a response, > actually l was just standing there.  Sometimes he nibbles me like dogs do > at > flees.  Most of the time when l try to pat him, he mouths me and when l > ignore him, he mouths me even more.  l tell him NO and STOP very loudly > but > he is becoming very assertive and l need some idea on how to handle this > dog.  So far, l have not found anything that can help me. > Lately, he has begun to bite me, even when he wags his tail?? > l tell him NO, No Biting, but he only stops temporarily. > He only bites me in the back yard when l go out there.  When he is out on > a > lead, he is a different dog. > l am really at a loss, l am looking for signs of danger, now that l see > his > aggressive tendancies but l do not know what to look for in THIS BREED. > If l take him back to the RSPCA (Rescue), they will destroy him. > What do you think?  Any suggestions, l really would like to save this dog > if > Thanks Cam,

Response:

Category Categories: Dog Behavior Aggressive | Comments No Comments »

Picking up debris…

Question:

> treat.  As soon as he stops sniffing/mouthing at your hand, tell him ‘YES!" and > give him the treat from your other hand.  Do this a few times, and soon he will > be leaving the treat in your open palm and looking to you for the other treat. > Make sure you don’t give him the leave it treat :)

I didn’t have any trouble at all giving Jackie the "leave it" treat. Actually her "leave it" has gotten genuiney enthusiastic since we taught the companion cue, "cleanup".  Putting a behavior on cue really does reduce off-cue instances, even when the dog is still enthusiastic about it… It doesn’t matter where the treat is when it’s being left or where the treat comes from when it’s given to the dog or the dog is told to clean up;  it matters what *you* say.  Same treat, available or not available, the dog needs to look to you and not to the treat for this information. Elizabeth

Response:

Owie! Paul Matthews wrote …  > doxie mix I had in HS ate part of a double-edge razor blade once. I have – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> no idea if it came out or stayed in, but she never had any blood in her > poop or problems from it. > OTOH, I had to take a fishhook out of a GSD mix’s lip one > time…qualifies as one of the hardest things I’ve ever done. Poor girl > was really, REALLY good about it…could feel it going through the > flesh, danged thing had to hurt like hell.

Response:

Yeah. I don’t suppose there IS any way to stop dogs from picking things up, huh… Except maybe HURTING the dog MOORE than you’d like, eh? Like lyindogDUMMY told Paul and Marty, huh? Eh? Huh? Huh? Huh? Eh? Your pal, Jerry "The PHONY," Howe. j;~}

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> >Ah, the little surprises of what all you’ll dig out of your pup’s mouth > ><g> > I almost had a heart attack a couple of weeks ago when I saw Madigan walking > around with a straight pin sticking out of her mouth!  And that’s before she > would do "drop it."  I was so afraid that she’d fight me taking it, and stick > herself or swallow it.  Got it without injury, though. > doxie mix I had in HS ate part of a double-edge razor blade once. I have > no idea if it came out or stayed in, but she never had any blood in her > poop or problems from it. > OTOH, I had to take a fishhook out of a GSD mix’s lip one > time…qualifies as one of the hardest things I’ve ever done. Poor girl > was really, REALLY good about it…could feel it going through the > flesh, danged thing had to hurt like hell. > — > Paul C – Purebred…mix…their tails still wag the same and they’ll > still grab your lunch. Scratch an ear anyways.

Response:

Hello Maureen,

> When outside to walk and do his business, my pom pup > likes to pick up crispy leaves or small twigs and carry them > around.

That sounds like fun. I imagine it’s pretty harmless. I’d be concerned if she were interested in other things. > Sometimes he chews up a piece of mulch, etc.

Do you suppose it’s treated with anything? I’d be careful about that. You could teach her only to pick up approved articles, and you could even teach her to ask permission to pick something up. > The other day he was eyeing an earthworm on the > driveway after a rain.

Sounds like fun, although the worm probably didn’t think so. > (I steered him away, pronto).

Can’t say’s I blame you. HOWEver, I doubt the worms will hurt her. In fact, they’re an excellent source of protein. Might be able to get a nice protein and mineral supplement if she takes a couple of worms with each walk. That’s optional though, you’d probably prefer not to have any ‘all natural’ supplements. But be satisfied with worms, you could do worse, ha, ha, ha. > How do I put an end to this?

You can easily break that habit using sound distraction and praise techniques as taught in the FREE Wits’ End Dog Training Method manual available at http://www.doggydoright.com >  What method of training do you suggest? Thanks.

I don’t think our Gang Of Thugs HAS any suggestions at all for this problem, EXCEPT to HURT your little dog MOORE than you’d LIKE. At least that’s the advice they gave to Paul and Marty over a similar problem. Their dogs were eating poo, not sticks and leaves and worms. You’re lucky. At any rate, Paul and Marty didn’t LIKE the idea of HURTING their dogs AT ALL, so they followed my instructions in the Wits’ End Dog Training Method manual available for FREE at http://www.doggydoright.com , and were able to solve their problems in just a few minutes over a couple of days. It took them about an hour and a half longer to learn the techniques, than it took to extingush the behaviors, WITHOUT HURTING NOBODY. And they learned a lot of other good stuff that you won’t find elsewhere. So, if you get any suggestions from our Gang Of Thugs other than "don’t let her do that" as our "expert" boob maida advises, I’ll fall over from dope slapping myself… Meanwhile, you’ll find all the instructions you need to learn non force, non confrontational, scientific and psychological, distraction and praise techniques that will quickly and permanently address ALL your pup’s behavior problems, and and an obedience program to bring her to any level of training you desire. But that’s up to you.You don’t NEED to do weeks or months of repetitive obedience "classes" to address all your needs. Just ask for help if you have any difficulty, there’s NO charge, no obligation, and I won’t be begging you for spare change like our friend ed (who’ll be along presently to warn you about NOT LISTENING to me and he’ll tell you my FREE training manual is a RIP OFF, and that I’m ONLY trying to sell you my Doggy Do Right (and Kitty Will Too) machine. But that’s a lie. Doggy Do Right (and Kitty Will Too) is 100% money back satisfaction guaranteed FOREVER, and BIOSOUND Scientific pays all return shipping, and gives a two year warranty, and a 25% discount for ALL shelter and rescue people REGARDLESS of their tax exempt status or affiliation with a bona fide organization. That’s because I like to HELP people who care about dogs. I’m mean to dog abusers though, so you mightn’t want to follow my advice. If that troubles you, I suggest you ask lyingdogDUMMY to tell you HOWE to HURT your dog enough to make her stop that. Your pal Jerry "The PHONY," Howe. j;~} Paul still posts here. Here’s Marty’s last post: Hello Martog,

> Just wanted to say thanks.

No. Thank you! You’re welcome. I’m always available (and FREE) to offer all the HELP you may need for all of your dog training and behavior problems. > The method you told me to stop my dog from > eating my other Labs sh-t in the backyard has worked > well.

Yes.  All my methods and techniques work LIKE FREAKING MAGICK. My techninques work and we NEVER hurt dogs or apply force or negative connotations to ANYTHING we do with our dogs. I just got a new neighbor, who’s tied a pit bull to the other side of my fence. That was Friday. By Monday, my dogs don’t even bother going over to say hello, they just ignore her and her two pups. > She has also improved greatly when off leash out in > the woods.

Wonderful. Do the exercises, and you’ll get 100%. > She still sniffs (of course), but I rarely need to stop her > from anything else.

That IS a problem sometimes. Maybe some of our dog trainer "experts" can give us some solutions for that? Maybe some Hot Sauce on their noses??? > I’ve always been diligent about watching her, and > cleaning up the yard, but ya just can’t be there every > second.

Well, supervision is less crucial when you know your dog simply isn’t interested in eatin poo or digging under the fence or jumping over it. Our experts here have HIT THE WALL for training and handling information and advice… They THINK and ACT, like CAVEMEN. JUST LOOK AT lia’s thread "1 step forward." She’s GONNA KILL Cubbe with her brand of "TRAINING," and her cretin pals here will pass around the crying towel and tell her she "DUN EVERYTHING she couldda. But alas, it was BAD GENES, she saw that from the very begining with Cubbe, and Cubbe was LUCKY ENOUGH, to find a wonderful, kind, careing, INTELLECTUAL, to HELP her as much as she could… bad genes." That’s what they told THEIR GOOD BUDDY Robert Crim, when he KILLED Fritz, because of their INSANE approach to training and behavior, and THAT’S what they told steve when he KILLED Samson, with their confrontation that taught Samson to become "FEAR AGGRESSIVE" towards OTHER PEOPLE’S CHILDREN… DEAD DOGS DON’T LIE. > And she is quick! So, thanks again for the advice.

My pleasure. And the same applies to ANY bums here who want to IMPROVE themselves… I don’t hold grudges. I’ll even bust my hump to help lia, DESPITE that she was the FIRST to report me to my ISP for "spamming." > I feel more confident now when I turn my back.

THAT’LL TAKE ME SOME GETTING USED TO!!! I only feel confident when I’m travelling incognito or wearing a bullet proof vest… > And to all you folks going yea, sure, right. THIS IS > NOT A TROLL POST. HE gave me advice. It worked. > Plain and simple. Nothing more, nothing less.

That’s where it’s at. Too bad our Gang Of Thugs would prefer to HURT their dogs, than to admit that Jerry’s RIGHT. Of course, you understand HOWE embarassing THAT IS for our friends here.  BWAAAHAHAHHAAA!!! > So Jerry, allthough I don’t lurk here, I’m sure you’re > still putting up with DogButt and his ilk.

Well, they’ve made it easier for me. They have all pretty much aligned and identified themselves with their warnings and criticism of me and my INFORMATION. I like that. That way, new readers KNOW there’s something dreadfully stinking in this group… > So good keep up the good work!

Yes, INDEED. I’ll be turning up the pressure on them. I’m going to be contacting their breed and training clubs and organizations and affiliated shelters or rescues, and see if we can’t clean out these slimy vermin, who tell people to jerk and choke dogs on pronged choke collars and shock, twist and pinch ears, toes, and testicles, and crate dogs because they don’t have a clue about training them… ONCE AND FOR ALL… They’re FINISHED. WATCH ME. > Off course DogButt will read this, even thoe it doesn’t > have his name on it.

Yeah. Well, he needs the exercise. He’s finally put me into his killfile so he don’t have to answer my questions, because you KNOW… (you can’t win an argument if your RONGE. BWAAAHAHAHAA!!!) > Cause he thinks he owns the group.

Nobody owns my group. I came in here to make certain we’ve got ONLY THE BEST information. You want  choices of methods? Fine by me. Let’s talk about training methods. I’ve been asking professor dermer to defend ENDORSING koehler. I’ve been asking EVERYONE to come up with ONE valid criticism of the Wits’ End Dog Training Method. They CAN’T. NOTHING, except "BEWARE!?!?! of Jerry and his ridiculous, impossible, sweeping claims." BRILLIANT, huh? Let’s see some of our experts talk to me… They won’t. They’ve even told Capn Faggotty to debate me. HE TELLS HIS LITTLE GIRL TO SCARE ME OFF!!! The coward. BWWAAAHAHAHAAA!!!!

Wait a minit, wait a minit, wait a minit, wait a minit… DON’T FORGET THE REST OF OUR Gang Of Thugs. Take the whole damn Conga Line, and let them BOOGALOO ON OUTTTA HERE all at once. We don’t WANT trainers here who NEED to HURT dogs to train them… > Well,,,,never mind. You’re already a loser.

Well, I do think I deserve a good amount of credit for PROOOVING that here… BUT KEEP IN MIND, it’s not just lyindogDUMMY. Punks like him can’t function alone, they NEED a Gang Of Thugs, to support and LIE for them. Like our own professor lyingdoc dermer, and the other experts, like blackman, and cindymooreon and her FAQ’s page at k9web… janet boss, lyinglynn, john richardson.. I’ll be HURTING THEM BIG-TIME soon through their organizations… They’re FINISHED. They won’t be telling folks to hurt their dogs and begging money off of us for donations to continue hurting and KILLING dogs they can’t HURT ENOUGH to make them RESPECT their G-d Like "AUTHORITY."  They’re ALL history. COUNT ON IT. TRUST ME. > I don’t need to tell you that.

I’m just grateful you were able to solve your dog behavior problems WITHOUT HURTING NOBODY… SEE? THAT’S WHAT GETS DOGS DEAD. I’ve never been comfortable KILLING dogs because I can’t HURT them enough in training… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Please feel free to correct my

… read more »

Response:

> >Ah, the little surprises of what all you’ll dig out of your pup’s mouth ><g> > I almost had a heart attack a couple of weeks ago when I saw Madigan walking > around with a straight pin sticking out of her mouth!  And that’s before she > would do "drop it."  I was so afraid that she’d fight me taking it, and stick > herself or swallow it.  Got it without injury, though.

doxie mix I had in HS ate part of a double-edge razor blade once. I have no idea if it came out or stayed in, but she never had any blood in her poop or problems from it. OTOH, I had to take a fishhook out of a GSD mix’s lip one time…qualifies as one of the hardest things I’ve ever done. Poor girl was really, REALLY good about it…could feel it going through the flesh, danged thing had to hurt like hell. — Paul C – Purebred…mix…their tails still wag the same and they’ll still grab your lunch. Scratch an ear anyways.

Response:

>Ah, the little surprises of what all you’ll dig out of your pup’s mouth ><g>

I almost had a heart attack a couple of weeks ago when I saw Madigan walking around with a straight pin sticking out of her mouth!  And that’s before she would do "drop it."  I was so afraid that she’d fight me taking it, and stick herself or swallow it.  Got it without injury, though. Learn How to Can Spam http://www.whew.com/Spammers/reportspam_stepbystep.shtml http://www.spamfree.org/ WHITE HAT OF THE MONTH – Nominate At:  http://www.whitehat.com/whotm/ Internet Secrets, 2nd Edition, by John Levine (All About Spam, p. 277)

Response:

>When outside to walk and do his business, my pom pup likes to pick up crispy >leaves or small twigs and carry them around.  Sometimes he chews up a piece >of mulch, etc.  

I swear Madigan is trying to build a nest on our porch.  Every single time she goes out, she picks up a stick and carries it around with her until she gets back to the apartment.  I make her leave it on the porch, or she’d have a collection inside the house.  Yesterday she picked up an animal’s tail!  (Don’t know what kind of animal – good thing she responds to "drop it," because I didn’t want to touch the scurvy thing!) When we first got her, she’d pick up ANYTHING off the ground.  Now that she’s stuck on sticks, I just let her do it. Learn How to Can Spam http://www.whew.com/Spammers/reportspam_stepbystep.shtml http://www.spamfree.org/ WHITE HAT OF THE MONTH – Nominate At:  http://www.whitehat.com/whotm/ Internet Secrets, 2nd Edition, by John Levine (All About Spam, p. 277)

Response:

> Be prepared at the time to physically remove the offensive item from > his mouth when you start training. > Terri

Heh, yup…and it never comes out as nicely as it went in. Ah, the little surprises of what all you’ll dig out of your pup’s mouth <g>

Response:

>When outside to walk and do his business, my pom pup likes to pick up >crispy leaves or small twigs and carry them around.  Sometimes he chews >up a piece of mulch, etc.  The other day he was eyeing an earthworm on >the driveway after a rain.  (I steered him away, pronto).

This bothers you? Okay. It’s your pup! (I’m more grossed out by pups picking up dead animals, cow and horse plops or other dogs’ crap). :) >How do I put an end to this?  What method of training do you suggest?

Since you’re there with him at the time, it’s also a perfect time to teach the "leave it" or "drop" command. Distract him immediatly after he drops it, and reward him with the favorite method of your choice. Toys, praise, treats, whatever. Be prepared at the time to physically remove the offensive item from his mouth when you start training. In a bit,you should see him leaving things when you say so, upon command. Terri

Response:

Earth worm won’t hurt your pup. They mostly tend to outgrow this sort of thing.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> When outside to walk and do his business, my pom pup likes to pick up crispy > leaves or small twigs and carry them around.  Sometimes he chews up a piece > of mulch, etc.  The other day he was eyeing an earthworm on the driveway > after a rain.  (I steered him away, pronto). > How do I put an end to this?  What method of training do you suggest? > Thanks.

Response:

"Maureen S." says… > When outside to walk and do his business, my pom pup likes to pick up crispy > leaves or small twigs and carry them around.  Sometimes he chews up a piece > of mulch, etc.  The other day he was eyeing an earthworm on the driveway > after a rain.  (I steered him away, pronto). > How do I put an end to this?  What method of training do you suggest? > Thanks.

As the owner of a scoop & chomp, she’s allowed all the leaves, grass & twigs she wants. Trash, food, cigarette butts etc. she’s not allowed. Unless it’s a poisonous plant or getting stuck in the pup’s throat, there’s no reason a puppy can’t have some fun with the crunchies. They’ll stop after a while. Be glad the pup can find fun while taking a walk instead of ignoring the world.

Response:

The puppy is just exploring his/her world. About the only thing you can do is to just keep steering him away. Maybe start using a quiet, grunt-type sound as a cue. It’ll take awhile–in fact, the puppy will probably do this kind of thing for a long time. There are so many interesting things to see and do outside, don’tcha know. oooieoo

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> When outside to walk and do his business, my pom pup likes to pick up crispy > leaves or small twigs and carry them around.  Sometimes he chews up a piece > of mulch, etc.  The other day he was eyeing an earthworm on the driveway > after a rain.  (I steered him away, pronto). > How do I put an end to this?  What method of training do you suggest? > Thanks.

Response:

>How do I put an end to this?  What method of training do you suggest?

Teach him to "Leave it". You can start with a hand leave it.  Take a treat in one hand and a treat in the other hand.  Show your dog the treat in one hand by holding it down to him while it’s in your palm.  As soon as he goes to snatch it, tell him "Leave it" and close your hand.  Don’t move your hand, just close it so he cant get the treat.  As soon as he stops sniffing/mouthing at your hand, tell him ‘YES!" and give him the treat from your other hand.  Do this a few times, and soon he will be leaving the treat in your open palm and looking to you for the other treat. Make sure you don’t give him the leave it treat :) When he gets this, you can start dropping one treat on the floor, tell him to leave it as soon as you drop it.  If he goes for it, cover it with your foot. Soon as he stops sniffing your foot, he gets the treat out of your other hand. When he learns leave it, you can employ the Leave It command on your walks :) Dogstar716 Come see Gunnars Life: http://hometown.aol.com/dogstar716/index.html "AKC papers do not mean you are getting a quality dog. They are merely a birth certificate. Even puppy mill pet shop pups have AKC papers" – Bob Maida

Response:

When outside to walk and do his business, my pom pup likes to pick up crispy leaves or small twigs and carry them around.  Sometimes he chews up a piece of mulch, etc.  The other day he was eyeing an earthworm on the driveway after a rain.  (I steered him away, pronto). How do I put an end to this?  What method of training do you suggest? Thanks.

Response:

Category Categories: Dog Behavior Aggressive | Comments No Comments »

Walking alone or not? New puppy?

Question:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> > > Beware of Jerry Howe. > > There’s NEVER Been An Unsatisfied Doggy Do > > Right (and Kitty Will Too) Owner. > Baloney jer. > An unhappy purchaser of Jerry’s $100 training device has posted a review > at: > EdW > http://Petloss.com/inthenws.htm > Sorry ed, your "unhappy purchaser" has never brought his complaint to me or > asked me any questions. > As far as I’m concerned, a person who doesn’t tell me he’s having difficulty > and doesen’t ask for a refund, is a satisfied customer. My Doggy Do Right > (and Kitty Will Too) is 100% money back, satisfacton guaranteed, forever, > including paid return shipping… > NO COMPLAINTS, ed. > President Of Pet Rescue, Board Member Of The > Alliance For Care And Welfare Of Animals, Feral Cat Network, And AKC > Obedience & Agility Clubs" Says "I Would Not Recommend DDR (&KWT) If I Did > Not Believe In It."

Even more baloney jer. It looks like The Alliance for Care and Welfare of Animals is a fictitious organization created by yourself. The ONLY place "The Alliance for Care and Welfare of Animals" is mentioned on the entire Internet is on Jerry Howes DDR "testimonial" page. You have yet to prove me wrong about anything I have posted. Ball is still in your court jer. EdW http://Petloss.com

Response:

(long, thoughtful, *thorough* analysis snipped) >I wouldn’t trust an organization that doesn’t list a >street address, a "business (as in finances)" phone number, >and the names of its officers.  I worked in the non profit >sector for many years.  Respectable organizations are not >cagey like that.

Just one thought, here.  Our rescue group lists a PO Box.  We do not list a street address for a couple reasons: we are a distributed organization and do not *have* an office, etc.  We use volunteers’ homes for our business, and volunteers do come and go over time.  That same PO Box means that the address remains the same througout personnel and organizational changes. We also deal with rescued dogs, and if a street address were available, dogs would be abandoned at that address.  So sometimes there are valid reasons for being cautious about revealing home addresses outside of the organization, particularly on the internet. Cheers, –Cindy —

Response:

>Debary, FL.  Information in Debary, FL has no listing for >"Pet Action League."  No where on the site is there a street >address, nor is a board of directors listed.  Another

Just to mention:  Neither the Cocker Spaniel rescue group nor the Australian Cattle Dog group list a street address. Both organizations are run out of the homes of the various folks that work for them with someone designated to pick up any mail for them from the post office box that collects the mail on a periodic basis. just my $0.02 worth…. — "Linux renders ships                     http://www.berghold.net  NT renders ships useless…."          

Response:

KERRRRCHHHINNNNGGG!!! Here’s your change. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Debary, FL.  Information in Debary, FL has no listing for >"Pet Action League."  No where on the site is there a street >address, nor is a board of directors listed.  Another > Just to mention:  Neither the Cocker Spaniel rescue group nor the > Australian Cattle Dog group list a street address. Both organizations > are run out of the homes of the various folks that work for them with > someone designated to pick up any mail for them from the post office > box that collects the mail on a periodic basis. > just my $0.02 worth…. > — > "Linux renders ships                     http://www.berghold.net >  NT renders ships useless…."

Response:

Hi, I just got my new dog (a 5 month old Shar Pei) about 5 days ago.  His name is Miklo and he’s a great dog. The breeder mentioned that she had started working with him on a leash and that he would be use to one, which he is!  He does very well when it’s just him and I but when my son or anyone for that matter is around he pulls and tugs on it and trys following that person instead of me.  So my question is, is it better to train him on walks alone or can I bring my son along while trying to train him? Also when I take him from the front door to the back yard (about 20-25 feet) without a leash he stays right next to me, doesn’t even try running.  Is this because he’s so well trained or because he’s unfamiliar with his new surroundings?  He seems to be getting braver everyday and venturing a little bit further each day.  Could this be because he’s getting braver in his new surroundings or because I’m letting him get away with it and in a sense untraining him?  Is that possible? Thanks, Nancy

Response:

Quote:  Could this be because he’s getting braver in his new surroundings or because I’m letting him get away with it and in a sense untraining him? Either is perfectly possible. Neither is desirable. Don’t let him get away with it. It’s *SO* much easier to prevent problems than to overcome them! Jane Webb  & Moonpie & Raisin Pie http://www.WebbWeave.com

Response:

You can get all the information you need to handle and train your dog using non force, non confronatational, scientific and psychological methods, in the Wits’ End Dog Training Method manual available for free at http://www.doggydoright.com The Wits’ End Dog Training Method manual is provided by the BIOSOUND Scientific Elves as an alternative to Doggy Do Right (and Kitty Will Too). Your pal, Jerry "The Phony," Howe

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi, I just got my new dog (a 5 month old Shar Pei) about 5 > days ago.  His name is Miklo and he’s a great dog. > The breeder mentioned that she had started working with him > on a leash and that he would be use to one, which he is!  He > does very well when it’s just him and I but when my son or > anyone for that matter is around he pulls and tugs on it and > trys following that person instead of me.  So my question > is, is it better to train him on walks alone or can I bring > my son along while trying to train him? > Also when I take him from the front door to the back yard > (about 20-25 feet) without a leash he stays right next to > me, doesn’t even try running.  Is this because he’s so well > trained or because he’s unfamiliar with his new > surroundings?  He seems to be getting braver everyday and > venturing a little bit further each day.  Could this be > because he’s getting braver in his new surroundings or > because I’m letting him get away with it and in a sense > untraining him?  Is that possible? > Thanks, > Nancy

Response:

Nancy, Beware of Jerry Howe. Jerry Howe is only here to sell you his dubious $100 electronic training device. That is where the link he posts takes you. His "free training manual" offer is the bait for his underhanded "bait & switch" scam. (An unhappy purchaser of Jerry’s $100 training device has posted a review at: If Jerry were an honest person he would post a genuine link to the "free training  manual" & not try to scam every new person on the newsgroup. Unfortunately he refuses to do so and, as you can see by his posts, viciously attacks, slanders, and lies about anyone who disagrees with him in any way. As recently as 12/7, Jerry Howe encouraged a poster in this very newsgroup to: , & I quote, " P.S. Take a couple of Tylenol with cyaninde. " EdW http://Petloss.com/inthenws.htm

Response:

> Nancy, > Beware of Jerry Howe

Here’s a quote from the koehler book you recommend: "If the punishment is not severe enough, some of these "backsliders" will think they’re winning and will continue to mess in the house. An indelible impression can sometimes be made by giving the dog a hard spanking of long duration, then leaving him tied by the mess he’s made so you can come back at twenty minute intervals and punish him again for the same thing." Nice stuff, huh? Your words: "Your help is now needed to support this website. Since it began as a simple homepage in the Spring of 1993, Petloss.com has grown to become the most visited pet loss grief support site on the web. The hours required every day to maintain the website’s resources & services have escalated so dramatically in the last year that I finally had to make a choice between my regular job & the website. I have chosen the website.  To keep up the current level of support and continue to increase the website’s ability to help others, I recently gave up my job and made this website my full- time occupation. For this to work, I must ask for financial support from those of you who believe in this website’s mission and want to be a part of it. Your donations & the Rainbow Bridge Prints are now my only source of income. Please help with any amount you can, payable to "Petloss.com". All donations are greatly appreciated." Send to: Petloss.com Ed Williams P. O. Box 517 Roseland, NJ 07608 Any donation of $50 or more will receive a beautiful laminated Rainbow Bridge Print as my way of saying "Thanks". And THANK YOU ed, we APPRECIATE  ALL your HELP. > You are a pathetic liar jer. > For all I know Koehler’s might be the best > training book ever.

See? You don’t know much. It’s the best if you don’t care about wheather your dog lives through the training. He hangs dogs. >  A huge number of dog owners do believe so.

INDEED. Ask lyingdogDUMMY. Ask lying"I LOVE KOEHLER"lynn. Ask lyingfrosty dahl. Ask lyingdoc dermer. Ask richardson. Ask webbweave. Ask dena pace. Ask cindymooreon. Ask blackman. Ask ludwig. Ask boob maida. Oh, forget boob, he won’t talk anymoore than you will, he don’t want to get caught lying. Seems I’m surrounded by koehler trainers here. > Nevertheless I personally have NEVER > recommended ANY training book.

That’s good. Because all your pals like to HURT dogs to train them, and I wouldn’t want to think YOU’D be glad to see folks jerking and choking and hurting and killing their dogs because they’ve been made vicious from all the jerking and choking they get in training. "FRIGHTENING," is HOWE another poster reported, on reading koehler. What kind of work do you do, ed? You run a "cyberchapel," for DEAD DOGS. That’s why you recommend koehler. It’s GOOD for business. You’re a beggar. You chisel donations out of grieving people and sell memorial crap. > <sarcasm off>

My students are decent to their dogs in LIFE > EdW > http://Petloss.com

Got some surprises coming for you for the  New Year, good buddy. Your words, silvertonguEd: "jer, You really ARE an obnoxious, petty, self- important, lying piece of smegma!" EdW

Response:

Beware of Jerry Howe. Jerry Howe is only here to sell you his dubious $100 electronic training device. That is where the link he posts takes you. His "free training manual" offer is the bait for his underhanded "bait & switch" scam. (An unhappy purchaser of Jerry’s $100 training device has posted a review at: If Jerry were an honest person he would post a genuine link to the "free training  manual" & not try to scam every new person on the newsgroup. Unfortunately he refuses to do so and, as you can see by his posts, viciously attacks, slanders, and lies about anyone who disagrees with him in any way. As recently as 12/7, Jerry Howe encouraged a poster in this very newsgroup to: , & I quote, " P.S. Take a couple of Tylenol with cyaninde. " EdW http://Petloss.com/inthenws.htm

Response:

> Beware of Jerry Howe.

There’s NEVER Been An Unsatisfied Doggy Do Right (and Kitty Will Too) Owner. Here are THREE testimonials, and there’s hundreds of others: Doggy Do Right and Jerry Howe: I do have a Doggy Do Right and have had it for about one year. It truly does work – at least on my Dobe, Chelsea. Chelsea was the unhappy recipient of several failed attempts at obedience training, both in a "class" environment and with a personal trainer. She is very high spirited and strong and, unfortunately, spoiled, since we are an older couple who doted on our dog. We were lucky enough to find Jerry Howe and to not only buy a Doggy Do Right, but to also have him personally work with Chelsea. His methods are wonderful and effective. Chelsea is not a dog that you will bully, and I wouldn’t dream of hurting her. After Jerry spent time with her, she no longer jumped on furniture, ate food off the counter, and pulled me incessantly on the leash. She is calmer and we are all happier. Well, it is a very long story and I won’t bore you will the details, but suffice it to say that Jerry Howe saved the day for our dog and for us. Marge Hoffman A poster with pit bulls and a feral cat rescue writes: Hi Jerry, I do think your product is a valuable tool in helping with aggression and other behavior problems. I am in Feral Cat Network (we spray and neuter approximately 100 feral cats a month), I am also a member of a local AKC dog obedience club, member of a local AKC agility club, president of Pet Rescue, board member of the Alliance for Care and Welfare of Animals (on the board are: county commissioner, vet. rep., rep. from AKC dog club, CFA cat club, assistant County Manager, head of animal control, director of two different shelters, etc.). I would not recommend your product if I did not believe in it. Well, we have been running Doggy Do Right for a while (3 weeks) now and would appear that it is working. We are still on the lowest setting, but my cat aggressive dog is now much calmer with the little fur balls getting near her. Not perfect, but much improved! I do think that you need a more universal name than Doggy Do Right, (hence: and Kitty Will To) as it appears to have drastically cut the spraying problem down that we have with our crowded cat situation. I am going to send an e-mail to Domesti-Cats club, Feral Cat Network and Space Cats Club as a lot of the members have some of the same problems with their cats. It has also lessened the number of nightly cat fights. Thanks Elaine. Hi Jerry, Lowest setting to us is when the machine is on the least number of times during the day. We are going to try putting it on the next setting and see if that will completely solve our problems. We are holding our breath at this point on the spraying and hoping that BIOSOUND continues to work. We will let you know. Yes, feel free to use my post. If you sell to people with cat spray problems though you might want to recommend that they do what we did. We went through the house with BACTerminator an enzyme product that eats the cat urine. We have used Bac T. for a long time and it usually only slows them down for a week or two, so I know it is the BIOSOUND that has created the success we are seeing right now. We are resigned to constant cleaning and even then it was difficult to keep up with. I don’t know if you have forgotten but we have 19 cats. Thanks Elaine. Hi Jerry, I wrote to you a week or so ago about the unit. I have since borrowed one from Elaine Mc Clung. She speaks very highly of it. So, I brought it home and plugged it in.  Of course, I wanted it to come on, all the barking stop, and have every one immediately fall to the floor in little comas for a few hours. Well, after I got all 27 of them to be quiet, still no comas. But, it had only been 36 seconds at that point. So, I gave it a little longer.  Still no comas.  Was this really going to work?  I mean, I do have an unusual situation. So, by bedtime, a few hours later.  I started to notice just how many were asleep already – with their feet in the air!  I started to have hope. During the night, all was calm.  In the morning when I got up, only a few of them WALKED quietly to the door to go out.  Not the usual evacuation. I had the unit from Sunday afternoon until Tuesday Morning. I was certainly pleased with the night effect.  I wasn’t so sure about the amount of the day time effect.  Until I took it back. Within half an hour, the monsters had resurfaced.  I wondered if I could break into Elaine’s house and if she would notice :) I know another person who does dog rescue. She rescues Beagles.  She has 23 in an 1100 square foot house.  God bless her.  She is interested to see if it will work for her.  I also spoke to someone else who does cat rescue, and she is interested.  The cat rescue people have monthly meetings. Maybe Elaine could give a word or two about it. So, if there are any words of advice you can send my way about the best way to use it in my case, I would appreciate it.  I of course wanted to keep it on the highest setting, but don’t know if that is advised, even with my situation of so many new ones coming and (too few) going. Also, how I and others can go about getting one, etc.  I think the vets should have the info in their offices.  It must help dogs with separation anxiety.  My vet practices homeopathic as well as traditional medicine, so I would think it would be right up her alley. Thank you. Desiree M Webber A New Leash On

Response:

> Hi, I just got my new dog (a 5 month old Shar Pei) about 5 > days ago.  His name is Miklo and he’s a great dog.

    You FINALLY got him? Congrats !!! :) – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> The breeder mentioned that she had started working with him > on a leash and that he would be use to one, which he is!  He > does very well when it’s just him and I but when my son or > anyone for that matter is around he pulls and tugs on it and > trys following that person instead of me.  So my question > is, is it better to train him on walks alone or can I bring > my son along while trying to train him? > Also when I take him from the front door to the back yard > (about 20-25 feet) without a leash he stays right next to > me, doesn’t even try running.  Is this because he’s so well > trained or because he’s unfamiliar with his new > surroundings?  He seems to be getting braver everyday and > venturing a little bit further each day.  Could this be > because he’s getting braver in his new surroundings or > because I’m letting him get away with it and in a sense > untraining him?  Is that possible?

    I’d keep him leashed and after you have it firmly set with him to walk by you on leash, then introduce your son. Work on the command, ‘heel’, and it seems he already knows this sort of. Does he do it on command? While he’s on leash with you? Once you feel you have him set with that, then bring son in, and use distractions. Don’t do it if he’s off leash and unfenced. And don’t take leash off until he will walk right with you, along with your son romping around. Unless you have him secured in another way, i.e. fence.     He is probably getting braver and you’d do well to nip it in the bud. As Jane said, it’s much easier to teach a dog what you want it to do, than to teach it what you dont’  want it to do. You can use praise, verbal or treats, to work with him in beginning, then phase out treats. I STILL use plenty of verbal praise on my dogs. and always will. :)     Now, wasn’t he worth the wait? :) Good luck !! MaryBeth

Response:

Yeah, well thanks for the advice anyway but I’m really tired of hearing (reading) you two fight!  So you disagree . . . not my problem – take it somewhere else. Nancy – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Hi, I just got my new dog (a 5 month old Shar Pei) about 5 > days ago.  His name is Miklo and he’s a great dog. > The breeder mentioned that she had started working with him > on a leash and that he would be use to one, which he is!  He > does very well when it’s just him and I but when my son or > anyone for that matter is around he pulls and tugs on it and > trys following that person instead of me.  So my question > is, is it better to train him on walks alone or can I bring > my son along while trying to train him? > Also when I take him from the front door to the back yard > (about 20-25 feet) without a leash he stays right next to > me, doesn’t even try running.  Is this because he’s so well > trained or because he’s unfamiliar with his new > surroundings?  He seems to be getting braver everyday and > venturing a little bit further each day.  Could this be > because he’s getting braver in his new surroundings or > because I’m letting him get away with it and in a sense > untraining him?  Is that possible? > Thanks, > Nancy

Response:

Yes, he was SO worth the wait!  He’s a great dog, my son and I absolutely love him.  It breaks my heart though, to leave him in his crate everyday, even though I knew that’s what I would be doing. I don’t think he knows heel on command yet.  I think he might just be more comfortable being right next to someone. That’s changing though?  This morning I took him out to the backyard (without his leash) and left the gate open.  He ran around in the back for awhile and than to the front yard and did his duty there instead of the backyard where he’s supposed to.  Meanwhile a car pulled up across the street and parked, he went towards it like he was going to go after the person that got out (I know he was thinking about it), I told him NO and come on, he waited for awhile than finally came inside the house with me.  It kind of scared me.  We don’t live on a busy street but cars do go through there and they’re usually not watching for dogs. Thanks for your advise. Nancy – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi, I just got my new dog (a 5 month old Shar Pei) about 5 > days ago.  His name is Miklo and he’s a great dog. >     You FINALLY got him? Congrats !!! :) > The breeder mentioned that she had started working with him > on a leash and that he would be use to one, which he is!  He > does very well when it’s just him and I but when my son or > anyone for that matter is around he pulls and tugs on it and > trys following that person instead of me.  So my question > is, is it better to train him on walks alone or can I bring > my son along while trying to train him? > Also when I take him from the front door to the back yard > (about 20-25 feet) without a leash he stays right next to > me, doesn’t even try running.  Is this because he’s so well > trained or because he’s unfamiliar with his new > surroundings?  He seems to be getting braver everyday and > venturing a little bit further each day.  Could this be > because he’s getting braver in his new surroundings or > because I’m letting him get away with it and in a sense > untraining him?  Is that possible? >     I’d keep him leashed and after you have it firmly set with him to walk > by you on leash, then introduce your son. Work on the command, ‘heel’, and > it seems he already knows this sort of. Does he do it on command? While he’s > on leash with you? Once you feel you have him set with that, then bring son > in, and use distractions. Don’t do it if he’s off leash and unfenced. And > don’t take leash off until he will walk right with you, along with your son > romping around. Unless you have him secured in another way, i.e. fence. >     He is probably getting braver and you’d do well to nip it in the bud. As > Jane said, it’s much easier to teach a dog what you want it to do, than to > teach it what you dont’  want it to do. You can use praise, verbal or > treats, to work with him in beginning, then phase out treats. I STILL use > plenty of verbal praise on my dogs. and always will. :) >     Now, wasn’t he worth the wait? :) > Good luck !! > MaryBeth

Response:

So you think I should keep him on his leash or that I should praise him when he comes without one? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Quote: >  Could this be > because he’s getting braver in his new surroundings or > because I’m letting him get away with it and in a sense > untraining him? > Either is perfectly possible. Neither is desirable. Don’t let him get away with > it. > It’s *SO* much easier to prevent problems than to overcome them! > Jane Webb >  & Moonpie & Raisin Pie > http://www.WebbWeave.com

Response:

Hello NGB, Your new found friend uses food rewards and praise to train her dogs to come, and does such a good job, she uses the shock collar to PROOF it… That’s the kind of mentality we’ve got here…

"Nope. That "beating dogs with sticks" things is something you twisted out of context, because you are full of bizarro manure." "Read koehler for content" marquis de shaw, IDIOT, Sadist, rpdb regular. "I LOVE KOHELER" lyinglynn, IDIOT, pathological liar, noted dog abuser. Koehler On Correcting The Barking Dog Thunder through the door or gate, snatch up the belt that you’ve conveniently placed, and descend on him. He’ll have no chance to dodge if you grab the line and reel him in until his front feet are  raised off the floor or, if he’s a big dog, until you’ve snubbed him up with a hitch on something (ceiling hook, rafters, tree limb, door, or even over your shoulder, if you know HOWE. j.h.) While he’s held in close, lay the strap vigorously against his thighs. Keep pouring it on him until he thinks it’s the bitter end. A real whaling now may cut down somewhat on the number of repeat performances that will be necessary. When you’re finished and the dog is convinced that he is, put him on a long down to think things over while you catch your breath. After fifteen or twenty minutes, release him from the stay and leave the area again."   lyinglynn writes to a new foster care giver:  For barking in the crate – leave the leash on and  pass it through the crate door.  Attach a line to it.  When he barks, use the line for a correction. Amy lyingfrosty dahl LIES with a straight face and says: "I don’t beat dogs, twist ears, or pinch toes. For the benefit of anyone who is in doubt, and who chooses not to read the article (SHE’D REALLY LIKE IT IF YOU DON’T READ IT!), there is NO mention in it of "twisting ears (INDEED, SHE PINCHES THEM WITH SPIKES). "Get a stick 30- or 40-inches long. You can have a helper wield the stick, or do it yourself. Tougher, less tractable dogs may require you to progress to striking them more sharply. REPEAT, VARYING HOW HARD YOU HIT THE DOG. I would never slap a dog (SHE TEACHES PEOPLE TO BEAT DOGS WITH STICKS TO MOTIVATE THEM). I would never advise anyone to slap a dog (SHE’S A PROVEN LIAR AND DOG ABUSER, do you expect her to ADMIT THE TRUTH???). I do not believe there is a single circumstance, ever, where slapping a dog is anything but destructive." RIGHT. She PINCHES, not twists… and chin cuff doesn’t mean hit, according to lyinglynn and avrama…. amy lyingfrosty dahl continues: Make the dog’s need to stop the pinching so urgent that resisting your will fades in importance. but will squeal, thrash around, and direct their efforts to escaping the ear pinch even get a studded collar and pinch the ear against that if the dog still does not open its mouth, get out the shotshell. Try pinching the ear between the metal casing and the collar, even the buckle on the collar. Persist! Eventually, the dog will give in" With your hand on the collar and ear, say, ‘fetch.’ Immediately tap the dog on the hindquarters with the stick. Repeat "fetch" and pinch the ear all the way to the dummy. You can press the dog’s ear with a shotshell instead of your thumb; Say "fetch" while pressing the dummy against its lips and pinching its ear. Gotta LOVE koehler. dahl makes koheler look like St. Francis. "Read for koehler for content" Mark Shaw, Idiot, Sadist, rpdb regular. "I LOVE KOHELER" lyinglynn, IDIOT, pathological liar, noted dog abuser. "There’s much wisdom in koehler," deana pace. (Her dogs run away from home.) "Read koehler," lyingdogDUMMY. (koehler is all he understands.) "Read koehler, cindymorons k-9 web faq’s page," ludwig smith. "Don’t let him do that, read cindymooreon’s web page," boob maida. And the prongs sticking and pinching into the dog’s throat is NOT DURESS. That’s why the dogs get "excited" when they see their "training" collars come out. They are BEGGING not to hurt them some moore. It’s the same way lyingfrosty dahl and freaky frantik fraud die get that animated look in their dogs when they work. The dog is TERRIFIED. The wiggling and happy look is ANXIETY, FEAR, and SUBMISSION. The dog is BEGGING not to hurt him some more. You can get all the information you need to handle and train your dog using non force, non confronatational, scientific and psychological methods, in the Wits’ End Dog Training Method manual available for free at http://www.doggydoright.com The Wits’ End Dog Training Method manual is provided by the BIOSOUND Scientific Elves as an alternative to Doggy Do Right (and Kitty Will Too). Your pal, Jerry "The Phony," Howe.

Response:

Hello NGB, Your pal marybeth likes to keep an open mind about HURTING dogs to train them. She’d like to think we may learn to like to HURT our dogs to teach them advanced training… You can get all the information you need to handle and train your dog using non force, non confronatational, scientific and psychological methods, in the Wits’ End Dog Training Method manual available for free at http://www.doggydoright.com The Wits’ End Dog Training Method manual is provided by the BIOSOUND Scientific Elves as an alternative to Doggy Do Right (and Kitty Will Too). Your pal, Jerry "The Phony," Howe.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Yes, he was SO worth the wait!  He’s a great dog, my son and > I absolutely love him.  It breaks my heart though, to leave > him in his crate everyday, even though I knew that’s what I > would be doing. > I don’t think he knows heel on command yet.  I think he > might just be more comfortable being right next to someone. > That’s changing though?  This morning I took him out to the > backyard (without his leash) and left the gate open.  He ran > around in the back for awhile and than to the front yard and > did his duty there instead of the backyard where he’s > supposed to.  Meanwhile a car pulled up across the street > and parked, he went towards it like he was going to go after > the person that got out (I know he was thinking about it), I > told him NO and come on, he waited for awhile than finally > came inside the house with me.  It kind of scared me.  We > don’t live on a busy street but cars do go through there and > they’re usually not watching for dogs. > Thanks for your advise. > Nancy > > Hi, I just got my new dog (a 5 month old Shar Pei) about 5 > > days ago.  His name is Miklo and he’s a great dog. >     You FINALLY got him? Congrats !!! :) > > The breeder mentioned that she had started working with him > > on a leash and that he would be use to one, which he is!  He > > does very well when it’s just him and I but when my son or > > anyone for that matter is around he pulls and tugs on it and > > trys following that person instead of me.  So my question > > is, is it better to train him on walks alone or can I bring > > my son along while trying to train him? > > Also when I take him from the front door to the back yard > > (about 20-25 feet) without a leash he stays right next to > > me, doesn’t even try running.  Is this because he’s so well > > trained or because he’s unfamiliar with his new > > surroundings?  He seems to be getting braver everyday and > > venturing a little bit further each day.  Could this be > > because he’s getting braver in his new surroundings or > > because I’m letting him get away with it and in a sense > > untraining him?  Is that possible? >     I’d keep him leashed and after you have it firmly set with him to walk > by you on leash, then introduce your son. Work on the command, ‘heel’, and > it seems he already knows this sort of. Does he do it on command? While he’s > on leash with you? Once you feel you have him set with that, then bring son > in, and use distractions. Don’t do it if he’s off leash and unfenced. And > don’t take leash off until he will walk right with you, along with your son > romping around. Unless you have him secured in another way, i.e. fence. >     He is probably getting braver and you’d do well to nip it in the bud. As > Jane said, it’s much easier to teach a dog what you want it to do, than to > teach it what you dont’  want it to do. You can use praise, verbal or > treats, to work with him in beginning, then phase out treats. I STILL use > plenty of verbal praise on my dogs. and always will. :) >     Now, wasn’t he worth the wait? :) > Good luck !! > MaryBeth

Response:

> > Beware of Jerry Howe. > There’s NEVER Been An Unsatisfied Doggy Do > Right (and Kitty Will Too) Owner. > Baloney jer. > An unhappy purchaser of Jerry’s $100 training device has posted a review > at: > EdW > http://Petloss.com/inthenws.htm

Sorry ed, your "unhappy purchaser" has never brought his complaint to me or asked me any questions. As far as I’m concerned, a person who doesn’t tell me he’s having difficulty and doesen’t ask for a refund, is a satisfied customer. My Doggy Do Right (and Kitty Will Too) is 100% money back, satisfacton guaranteed, forever, including paid return shipping… NO COMPLAINTS, ed. President Of Pet Rescue, Board Member Of The Alliance For Care And Welfare Of Animals, Feral Cat Network, And AKC Obedience & Agility Clubs" Says "I Would Not Recommend DDR (&KWT) If I Did Not Believe In It." Margaret and Elaine (below) have posted publicly, and have been veirified by dw and marquis de "Read koehler For Content," shaw.  dw PAID Margaret his reward. marquis is a fraud, and reneged on his payment. The third poster, Desiree (New Leash), is a member of the Space Cats Rescue in Melbourn, FL. You could also just check the posters long histories on usenet. You’ll LOVE this quote from Elaine’s post, after only three weeks using my Doggy Do Right (and Kitty Will Too): "my cat aggressive (P.B.) dog is now much calmer with the little fur balls getting near her. Not perfect, but much improved! I do think your product is a valuable tool in helping with aggression and other behavior problems." You’ll like this quote too, from Desiree’s post.  She wrote me after using Doggy Do Right (and Kitty Will Too) for just TWO DAYS. She’d borrowed it from Elaine, but Elaine called her back and asked her to return it A.S.A.P., because she needed it to keep her problem cat from bullying the others. Her post wasn’t sent as an endorsement, it was just her private email to me: "I had the unit from Sunday afternoon until Tuesday Morning. I was certainly pleased with the night effect.  I wasn’t so sure about the amount of the day time effect.  Until I took it back. Within half an hour, the monsters had resurfaced.  I wondered if I could break into Elaine’s house and if she would notice :) " Here’s the complete posts: Hi Jerry, I wrote to you a week or so ago about the unit. I have since borrowed one from Elaine Mc Clung. She speaks very highly of it. So, I brought it home and plugged it in.  Of course, I wanted it to come on, all the barking stop, and have every one immediately fall to the floor in little comas for a few hours. Well, after I got all 27 of them to be quiet, still no comas. But, it had only been 36 seconds at that point. So, I gave it a little longer.  Still no comas.  Was this really going to work?  I mean, I do have an unusual situation. So, by bedtime, a few hours later.  I started to notice just how many were asleep already – with their feet in the air!  I started to have hope. During the night, all was calm.  In the morning when I got up, only a few of them WALKED quietly to the door to go out.  Not the usual evacuation. I had the unit from Sunday afternoon until Tuesday Morning. I was certainly pleased with the night effect.  I wasn’t so sure about the amount of the day time effect.  Until I took it back. Within half an hour, the monsters had resurfaced.  I wondered if I could break into Elaine’s house and if she would notice :) I know another person who does dog rescue. She rescues Beagles.  She has 23 in an 1100 square foot house.  God bless her.  She is interested to see if it will work for her.  I also spoke to someone else who does cat rescue, and she is interested.  The cat rescue people have monthly meetings. Maybe Elaine could give a word or two about it. So, if there are any words of advice you can send my way about the best way to use it in my case, I would appreciate it.  I of course wanted to keep it on the highest setting, but don’t know if that is advised, even with my situation of so many new ones coming and (too few) going. Also, how I and others can go about getting one, etc.  I think the vets should have the info in their offices.  It must help dogs with separation anxiety.  My vet practices homeopathic as well as traditional medicine, so I would think it would be right up her alley. Thank you. Desiree M Webber A New Leash On And here’s one from Elain McClung: Hi Jerry, I do think your product is a valuable tool in helping with aggression and other behavior problems. I am in  Feral Cat Network (we spray and neuter approximately 100 feral cats a month), I am also a member of a local AKC dog obedience club, member of a local AKC agility club, president of Pet Rescue, board member of the Alliance for Care and Welfare of Animals (on the board are: county commissioner, vet. rep., rep. from AKC dog club, CFA cat club, assistant County Manager, head of animal control, director of two different shelters, etc.). I would not recommend your product if I did not believe in it. Well, we have been running Doggy Do Right for a while (3 weeks) now and would appear that it is working. We are still on the lowest setting, but my cat aggressive dog is now much calmer with the little fur balls getting near her. Not perfect, but much improved! I do think that you need a more universal name than Doggy Do Right, (hence: and Kitty Will To) as it appears to have drastically cut the spraying problem down that we have with our crowded cat situation. I am going to send an e-mail to Domesti-Cats club, Feral Cat Network and Space Cats Club as a lot of the members have some of the same problems with their cats. It has also lessened the number of nightly cat fights. Thanks Elaine. Doggy Do Right and Jerry Howe: I do have a Doggy Do Right and have had it for about one year. It truly does work – at least on my Dobe, Chelsea. Chelsea was the unhappy recipient of several failed attempts at obedience training, both in a "class" environment and with a personal trainer. She is very high spirited and strong and, unfortunately, spoiled, since we are an older couple who doted on our dog. We were lucky enough to find Jerry Howe and to not only buy a Doggy Do Right, but to also have him personally work with Chelsea. His methods are wonderful and effective. Chelsea is not a dog that you will bully, and I wouldn’t dream of hurting her. After Jerry spent time with her, she no longer jumped on furniture, ate food off the counter, and pulled me incessantly on the leash. She is calmer and we are all happier. Well, it is a very long story and I won’t bore you will the details, but suffice it to say that Jerry Howe saved the day for our dog and for us. Marge Hoffman

Response:

It looks like The Alliance for Care and Welfare of Animals is a fictitious organization created by Jerry Howe. The ONLY place "The Alliance for Care and Welfare of Animals" is mentioned on the entire Internet is on Jerry Howes DDR "testimonial" page. Still waiting for you to prove me wrong Jer. Ball is still in your court. EdW http://Petloss.com BTW Jer, an unhappy purchaser of your bogus $100 training device has posted a review at:

Response:

5 days is a short time to really tell.  wait a few more days and see how he opens up more.  then when he knows who fits where in the house, start training.  when u have basics sorted bring others along and teach him how to behave then too.  Basically what u don;t like correct and what u like praise, but try to be praising more than not, as he’ll start to think everything is bad.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi, I just got my new dog (a 5 month old Shar Pei) about 5 > days ago.  His name is Miklo and he’s a great dog. > The breeder mentioned that she had started working with him > on a leash and that he would be use to one, which he is!  He > does very well when it’s just him and I but when my son or > anyone for that matter is around he pulls and tugs on it and > trys following that person instead of me.  So my question > is, is it better to train him on walks alone or can I bring > my son along while trying to train him? > Also when I take him from the front door to the back yard > (about 20-25 feet) without a leash he stays right next to > me, doesn’t even try running.  Is this because he’s so well > trained or because he’s unfamiliar with his new > surroundings?  He seems to be getting braver everyday and > venturing a little bit further each day.  Could this be > because he’s getting braver in his new surroundings or > because I’m letting him get away with it and in a sense > untraining him?  Is that possible? > Thanks, > Nancy

Response:

Hello jkj.c,

> 5 days is a short time to really tell.

Yes, for you maybe. >  wait a few more days and see how he opens up > more.

I’ve got some exercises that go far beyond that, and only takes a few minutes. We do that the first time we meet the dog, and it makes them thing we belong together, as a team. It’s all explained in the Wits’ End Dog Training Method manual available for FREE at http://www.doggydoright.com >  then when he knows who fits where in the house, > start training.

That’s the way it was. The way it is now, we get all that to happen in about one hour doing some simple exercises as taught in the Wits’ End Dog Training Method manual available for FREE at http://www.doggydoright.com > when u have basics sorted bring others along and > teach him how to behave then too.

RIGHT. That too. In about one hour, using the techniques in the Wits’ End Dog Training Method manual available for FREE at http://www.doggydroight.com > Basically what u don;t like correct and what u like > praise,

Basically, YOU’RE RONGE. > but try to be praising more than not,

INDEED. > as he’ll start to think

SHOVE IT. > everything is bad.

Don’t need EVERYTHING being bad, it ONLY TAKES ONE bad incident, to make your dog mistrust you. That’s why I don’t use any aversives of reprimands or corrections of any kind. SEE? ONCE is all it takes. Jerry. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi, I just got my new dog (a 5 month old Shar Pei) about 5 > days ago.  His name is Miklo and he’s a great dog. > The breeder mentioned that she had started working with him > on a leash and that he would be use to one, which he is!  He > does very well when it’s just him and I but when my son or > anyone for that matter is around he pulls and tugs on it and > trys following that person instead of me.  So my question > is, is it better to train him on walks alone or can I bring > my son along while trying to train him? > Also when I take him from the front door to the back yard > (about 20-25 feet) without a leash he stays right next to > me, doesn’t even try running.  Is this because he’s so well > trained or because he’s unfamiliar with his new > surroundings?  He seems to be getting braver everyday and > venturing a little bit further each day.  Could this be > because he’s getting braver in his new surroundings or > because I’m letting him get away with it and in a sense > untraining him?  Is that possible? > Thanks, > Nancy

Response:

ESPECIALLY IF YOU’RE A DOG ABUSING COWARD.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > (long, thoughtful, *thorough* analysis snipped) >I wouldn’t trust an organization that doesn’t list a >street address, a "business (as in finances)" phone number, >and the names of its officers.  I worked in the non profit >sector for many years.  Respectable organizations are not >cagey like that. > Just one thought, here.  Our rescue group lists a PO Box.  We do not > list a street address for a couple reasons: we are a distributed > organization and do not *have* an office, etc.  We use volunteers’ > homes for our business, and volunteers do come and go over time.  That > same PO Box means that the address remains the same througout > personnel and organizational changes. We also deal with rescued dogs, > and if a street address were available, dogs would be abandoned at > that address.  So sometimes there are valid reasons for being cautious > about revealing home addresses outside of the organization, > particularly on the internet. > Cheers, > –Cindy > —

Response:

Hell mc,

> Jerry wrote (of his *many* supporters):

Just plain old, ordinary, satisfied customers. NOT students of mine. >President Of Pet Rescue, > Pet Rescue has a ton of links, a bunch of "free stuff" > links,

So? I’ve never read their site. > but neither your free training manual nor your > black box are among them.

Why should they be? >  Guess what is – Cindy’s Complete FAQ

Oh, well THAT will be EASY to fix. WON’T IT? > list (remember Cindy, one of the many posters you > call a sadist, an idiot, and worse).

Yes. It’s TRUE, and PROVEN in blackman and white. And I’m CERTAIN the other rescue organizations will be glad to be informed of the crummy information on her site. They don’t know what’s there, I’m sure. Most link pages don’t know or care who’s linking to them. That’s why I won’t allow links on MY site. > They tout her document as follows: > "This is one of the biggest canine resources on the > ‘Net! Tons of information on every conceivable > subject about dogs."

That’s USUALLY written by the bums promoting the site. I’ll bring that to the organizations attention, and have the unsightly menace, REMOVED. NO PROBLEM. Thanks. We ALL thank you. > But, you are not mentioned ANYWHERE on the site, > Jerry. Isn’t that strange?

Not at all. I don’t run their organization, I only know a couple of board members. They’ll do whatever I suggest, so don’t worry. I’ll see to it they take the OFFENSIVE material off their site. >  Especially since the PRESIDENT of this >  "organization" is so very impressed with your . . . > wares?

NO PROBLEM. Consider it GONE. Don’t be such a hot head! I KNOW HOWE OFFENSIVE it is, it’ll be DEALT WITH. > Maybe the PRESIDENT really was impressed but she > is so embarrassed by your behavior on the ng that > she hides <VBG>.

She isn’t interested in converstation with our dog abusing Thugs. > I thought this blatant "lack of support" in the face of > glorious praise was perplexing.

EXCUSE ME? > No where on the site  is there a phone number or a > street address.

WRITE THEM. It’s NOT my business. > The board of directors is not listed either so I > couldn’t confirm who was "president" of this > strangely anonymous organization.

STRANGELY ANONYMOUS? I’ve never read their site, but there must be an address SOMEWHERE. I’m sure you’re bright enough to FIND it, unless you’re the sort who couldn’t find their butt in the dark with both hands… > Being the Sam Spade type, I looked up the the > number listed as the contract for "Pet Rescue."

Evidentally you’re not going to make it as a PI. > It has been changed to an unlisted number.  That is a > damn odd move for a non profit organization looking > for donated dollars.

Are you casting aspersions on them? > I noticed the business of the admin contact was > listed as "Pet Action League" located in DeBary, > Florida, and the information on the "Pet Rescue" site > also states that their tax ID name is Pet Action > League and they state a P.O. Box address in > Debary, FL.  Information in Debary, FL has no listing > for "Pet Action League."  No where on the site is > there a street address, nor is a board of directors > listed.

Maybe you should apply for a position as webmaster for them, seeing as your career as PI has gone down the crapper? > Another anonymous organization that wants nothing > more than a credit card number.

Tell THEM about it. You could PROBABLY just email them and ASK. But that’s YOUR dogfight. > A search on Florida’s IRS database for "Pet Action > League" brings up "Abandoned Pet Rescue Inc." in Ft. > Lauderdale, FL. > Why?

Why? I have no idea what you’re talking about. If you’d like to talk to them, I suggest you use your PI skills and talk to them. Meanwhile, I’ll inform them of your complaint about the vicious links on their site and I’ll have them take it out. FAIR ENOUGH? > I don’t know, but I’ve written to the Florida IRS site > and asked. > I went to the "Abandoned Pet Rescue" site and > expected to find a link to "Pet Action League" or "Pet > Rescue" but there were none (?).  There is an > extensive list of rescue organizations, humane > societies and animal shelters, but Pet Action League > and Pet Rescue are not mentioned, neither is > Elaine McClung.  Neither are the two "cat rescue" > organizations supposedly headed by the mysterious > Elaine McClung (a search on three different engines > brings up nothing on her name. . . except Jerry’s > website).

Well, you should probably stick to the things you’re good at, because PI work isn’t your strong suite, any moore than dog behavior is… > BTW, the President of "Abandoned Pet Rescue Inc." > is listed as Karen Judge.

I haven’t had the pleasure. > A phone call to the corporation resulted in > another answering machine, but at least this one ID’d > itself as Abandoned Pet Rescue, which doesn’t > appear to associate itself in any way, shape or form > with the two previously cited organizations or with > the two "cat rescue" organizations.

There’s PROBABLY a good reason for that. YOU’RE CALLING the RONGE people… Perhaps you should just look up Elaine’s email address from her posts HERE, or ask DW or marquis de "Read koehler For Content" shaw, and ask THEM. They’ve verified her information for their REWARDS for Doggy Do Right (and Kitty Will TOO) owners. > Neither did it offer any information about what it > does, it’s finances, how to get your money back, > etc.

You mean the OTHER organization, the one having NOTHING to do with the one in Melbourne, FL? BRILLIANT. > I wouldn’t trust an organization that doesn’t list a > street address, a "business (as in finances)" phone > number, and the names of its officers.

GOOD! I suggest you call the sherriff’s fraud investigation division. They throw them in jail if they’re abusing funds as cindymooreon abuses dogs… > I worked in the non profit sector for many years.

Yes, I’m sure you can run a business with NO income. You’ve got a knack for being incapable of finding your butt in the dark with both hands . > Respectable organizations are not cagey like that.

I hardly think anyone is being cagey, EXCEPT YOU, and YOU’RE not bright enough to outwit a puppy dog… > Also, *none* of the counties involved named *any* of > the above entities as a resource.  Something to think > about.

Don’t strain yourself. Here, I found a PI school advertising on the back of this matchbox. I’ll send it to you in private email, so you can work the bugs out of your forthcoming endeavour as a PI, the dog business is clearly beyond your scope. There’s NEVER Been An Unsatisfied Doggy Do Right (and Kitty Will Too) Owner. Here are THREE testimonials, and there’s hundreds of others: Doggy Do Right and Jerry Howe: I do have a Doggy Do Right and have had it for about one year. It truly does work – at least on my Dobe, Chelsea. Chelsea was the unhappy recipient of several failed attempts at obedience training, both in a "class" environment and with a personal trainer. She is very high spirited and strong and, unfortunately, spoiled, since we are an older couple who doted on our dog. We were lucky enough to find Jerry Howe and to not only buy a Doggy Do Right, but to also have him personally work with Chelsea. His methods are wonderful and effective. Chelsea is not a dog that you will bully, and I wouldn’t dream of hurting her. After Jerry spent time with her, she no longer jumped on furniture, ate food off the counter, and pulled me incessantly on the leash. She is calmer and we are all happier. Well, it is a very long story and I won’t bore you will the details, but suffice it to say that Jerry Howe saved the day for our dog and for us. Marge Hoffman A poster with pit bulls and a feral cat rescue writes: Hi Jerry, I do think your product is a valuable tool in helping with aggression and other behavior problems. I am in Feral Cat Network (we spray and neuter approximately 100 feral cats a month), I am also a member of a local AKC dog obedience club, member of a local AKC agility club, president of Pet Rescue, board member of the Alliance for Care and Welfare of Animals (on the board are: county commissioner, vet. rep., rep. from AKC dog club, CFA cat club, assistant County Manager, head of animal control, director of two different shelters, etc.). I would not recommend your product if I did not believe in it. Well, we have been running Doggy Do Right for a while (3 weeks) now and would appear that it is working. We are still on the lowest setting, but my cat aggressive dog is now much calmer with the little fur balls getting near her. Not perfect, but much improved! I do think that you need a more universal name than Doggy Do Right, (hence: and Kitty Will To) as it appears to have drastically cut the spraying problem down that we have with our crowded cat situation. I am going to send an e-mail to Domesti-Cats club, Feral Cat Network and Space Cats Club as a lot of the members have some of the same problems with their cats. It has also lessened the number of nightly cat fights. Thanks Elaine. Hi Jerry, Lowest setting to us is when the machine is on the least number of times during the day. We are going to try putting it on the next setting and see if that will completely solve our problems. We are holding our breath at this point on the spraying and hoping that BIOSOUND continues to work. We will let you know. Yes, feel free to use my post. If you sell to people with cat spray problems though you might want to recommend that they do what we did. We went through the house with BACTerminator an enzyme product that eats the cat urine. We have used Bac T. for a long time and it usually only slows them down for a week or two, so I know it is the BIOSOUND that has created the success we are seeing right now. We are resigned to constant cleaning and even then it was difficult to keep up with. I don’t know if … read more »

Response:

Category Categories: Dog Behavior Aggressive | Comments No Comments »

NBC Dateline 12/18/00: new babies and dogs

Question:

answer:  YES, if you train it (and YOURSELF!!!! — now there’s a new concept), set behavior guideliness and establish pack order. It was pretty impressive:  they showed two households with potential problem dogs (that displayed some aggressive behavior) and how a good course of training and learning about dog behavior could produce safer, happier dogs (and parents).  Though they did imply that it might ever be safe to leave a toddler alone with a dog (which is never a good idea). But still, it seemed pretty sensible for US television Emily (not ~Emily)

Response:

I became pregnant with my first baby when my bouviers Tosca and Olaffe were 9 and 11 years old.  They had been exposed to the neighborhood kids and the occassional kid that I babysat and had never shown any signs of aggression toward them.  We got lots of conflicting advice.  My mother firmly believed that everything would be ok, my in-laws weren’t so sure and advised me to watch the dogs for any signs of aggression are territorial behaviour.  Some people even went to far as to say put the dogs down before there is a problem.  My husband and I were a bit worried.  The dogs wouldn’t get the attention that they were used to. We used to go on very long walks almost every night of the week. Because the baby was to be born in January we knew that long 4 and 5 hour walks just wouldn’t be happening on a regular basis. Both of my dogs were used to walking with strollers because I quite often took them with me when I babysat.  Keiran was born 6 weeks early. I had my husband bring home a receiving blanket with the baby’s smell on it and let the dogs have it.  We still have Tosca and he is 12 years old and loves being around the kids.  He is very careful not to knock them over or run into them.  He seems to understand that the kids are higher up on the pack order.  I don’t let the kids torment him, but when Keiran was learning to walk, he fell on Tosca, he has pulled hair (those baby hands just love to grab) and Tosca just put up with it all, occassionally giving me that "please help me" or "do you think you can control this kid" look.   Unfortunatly, Olaffe had to be put down when Keiran was 5 months old.  It was totally unrelated to the baby.  She used to try to mother him. Her spine fused.  We tried many different drugs.  The next step was a surgery that the vet advised us against. Now we have two little boys Keiran aged 3 and Aidan aged 14 months.  We still have Tosca and a new bouv named Logan also aged 14 months (he and Aidan are 1 day apart.  The breeder named Logan and it was a name we had considered for the baby……talk about coincidence.  Kind of made us think this may be fate). Ann Stewart-Anderson – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > answer:  YES, if you train it (and YOURSELF!!!! — now there’s a new > concept), set behavior guideliness and establish pack order. > It was pretty impressive:  they showed two households with potential > problem dogs (that displayed some aggressive behavior) and how a good > course of training and learning about dog behavior could produce safer, > happier dogs (and parents).  Though they did imply that it might ever be > safe to leave a toddler alone with a dog (which is never a good idea). > But still, it seemed pretty sensible for US television > Emily (not ~Emily)

Response:

>I commend them for showing families working with their dogs instead of >deciding to get rid of them.  However, I would liked to have seen some >discussion with behaviorists and more modern training methods (I keep >seeing that Chow pinned to the ground in my head).

That bothered me as well, Melanie. Laura Behning Brookridge Morgans http://www.mindspring.com/~morgans/Laura.htm

Response:

>I would liked to have seen some > discussion with behaviorists and more > modern training methods (I keep seeing > that Chow pinned to the ground in my > head).

  Yeah, and the Spitz-type being taught "down" by shoving on her shoulders.  That she went into a submissive roll indicated poor communication of what was intended.

Response:

> answer:  YES, if you train it (and YOURSELF!!!! — now there’s a new > concept), set behavior guideliness and establish pack order. > But still, it seemed pretty sensible for US television > Emily (not ~Emily)

One thing I don’t get is the way people get so upset if you mention obedience training.  Dogs can’t know what you want from them if you don’t teach them, and it helps to know how to teach them. My brother and SIL have an out-of-control lab, approx 2 years old. They did no research into the breed, she just wanted one because a neighbor when she was a kid had one, and she thinks she’s fulfilling a childhood dream.  They’ve given their dog no training, and now they’re afraid he’s "too big and rough" for the kids (duh – Labs get big, morons!).  And come to find out, the childhood neighbor’s dog did some kind of showing, whether in conformation or agility, I don’t know, so he was well-trained practically from birth.  They were assuming that Labs were just naturally "good" dogs, so they’ve never bothered themselves with trying to teach this one anything.  I offered the number for the training classes I attended, and SIL was thoroughly offended.  I guess my mistake was saying that it not only teaches the dog, it teaches you how to teach the dog. She may have taken that as a stronger criticism than I meant it to be, since she claims that she’s the only one the dog listens to.  This is frightening, because "listening" to her really means that she has the screechiest voice that gets his attention faster than anyone else’s.  She shrieks, he stops what he’s doing and hides, and they seem to think they’ve accomplished something.  Once when I was babysitting, I took some treats out and had him doing "sit" and "down" on my command in about 2 hours.  I keep the number to the nearest Lab rescue on hand, because they are exactly the type that would mistake his exuberance (he’s never been taught that it’s not OK to jump on people, but they freak when he does it) for aggression and have him put down, although he’s not aggressive. — "The more I know people, the more I love my dogs."

Response:

>I commend them for showing families working with their dogs instead of >deciding to get rid of them.  However, I would liked to have seen some >discussion with behaviorists and more modern training methods (I keep >seeing that Chow pinned to the ground in my head).

I don’t understand this.  But then I didn’t see the show. Why does it matter whether the methods were "modern" or not? Isn’t it enough that they were apparently very EFFECTIVE? Would any "modern" method have been any more EFFECTIVE? If not, why care? If so, how do you know that? Maybe there’s very good reason they didn’t use a more "modern" method? — Dogman http://www.i1.net/~dogman For everything you’ve ever wanted to know about our newsgroup’s many TROLLS: http://www.i1.net/~dogman/trolls.html

Response:

[...] >That she went into a submissive roll indicated poor >communication of what was intended.

Maybe. Maybe not. It might also have indicated a dog that’s figured out how to get her way (essentially never having to do anything she doesn’t want to do) simply by affecting a submissive roll. — Dogman http://www.i1.net/~dogman For everything you’ve ever wanted to know about our newsgroup’s many TROLLS: http://www.i1.net/~dogman/trolls.html

Response:

  Was just sent copies of letters sent to Dateline; they are vicious and vituperative.  Doubt they will be effective.    They deserve some commendation for considering the subject important enough for a top-rated national show.  Only a dog person would know that the trainer they chose is out-moded, which could be gently pointed out to them.  (Remember the follow up to their "puppy-mill" story? They might do one here, too.)    If you wished to email the producer (Izhar Harpaz is the name) with more temperate suggestions, you can find Dateline under  www.nbc.com

Response:

>[...] >That she went into a submissive roll indicated poor >communication of what was intended. >Maybe. >Maybe not. >It might also have indicated a dog that’s figured out how to get her >way (essentially never having to do anything she doesn’t want to do) >simply by affecting a submissive roll.

They commanded "down". She flopped over on her back submissively. They praised her. Laura Behning Brookridge Morgans http://www.mindspring.com/~morgans/Laura.htm

Response:

[...] >It might also have indicated a dog that’s figured out how to get her >way (essentially never having to do anything she doesn’t want to do) >simply by affecting a submissive roll. >They commanded "down". She flopped over on her back submissively. They >praised her.

Sounds to me like they might actually be "training" her to act submissively, eh? Or…maybe she’s just playing them like a fiddle. Could be a lot of things going on here, eh? — Dogman http://www.i1.net/~dogman For everything you’ve ever wanted to know about our newsgroup’s many TROLLS: http://www.i1.net/~dogman/trolls.html

Response:

Hello lyingdogDUMMY, Could be a lot of things is right. What do you suppose made the dog bite the trainer? Could be the same reason the dog "submissively" rolls when told to down. But you like that, because it makes you FEEL POWERFUL. Have a nice trip. Your pal, Jerry "The Phony," Howe.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > [...] >>It might also have indicated a dog that’s figured out how to get her >>way (essentially never having to do anything she doesn’t want to do) >>simply by affecting a submissive roll. >They commanded "down". She flopped over on her back submissively. They >praised her. > Sounds to me like they might actually be "training" her to act > submissively, eh? > Or…maybe she’s just playing them like a fiddle. > Could be a lot of things going on here, eh? > — > Dogman > http://www.i1.net/~dogman > For everything you’ve ever wanted to know about our newsgroup’s many TROLLS: > http://www.i1.net/~dogman/trolls.html

Response:

Category Categories: Dog Behavior Aggressive | Comments No Comments »